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Soutwest Utah in 2 weeks - trip report

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Soutwest Utah in 2 weeks - trip report

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Old Oct 15th, 2005, 12:20 PM
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Soutwest Utah in 2 weeks - trip report

We (DH and I – late 30s, no kids) returned from a 2 weeks vacation in southern Utah. I was planning to write a detailed trip report, but I realize I have no time for it. So I decided a short report is better than none.

We flew in and out of Las Vegas from Newark. Non-stop flight on Continental, uneventful – just the way I like it. Landed on time both ways and they fed us both times (that was a surprise - I did not think they feed you anymore on domestic flights).

We rented an SUV from Thrifty. When we got it, the car was fine, not a problem, but we had to wait maybe an hour at the Thrifty airport office for it. They were basically out of cars – any car.

We spent 1 night in Las Vegas @ Hotel Paris. We decided on that hotel because we had tickets for ‘O’ and Paris is just across the street. First – the hotel. It is huge, like all Las Vegas hotels and the room was ok, nothing special (the first room smelled of smoke, even though it was a non-smoking room, but they moved us without any problems). We did not want to pay the $60 for an upgrade to a room with a view, but we did not plan to stay too long in the room, anyway. Not sure if this is the case with any big hotel (we tend to stay in smaller ones) but everything is so impersonal, you have the feeling you are just one of the cattle in the big herd they are moving around….anyway, we did not care for Las Vegas. We walked on the strip, visited a few hotels, did not gamble. We had dinner at a restaurant in the Venetian hotel (can’t remember which one) and both the food and the service were very good.

After dinner – the show: ‘O’. That was great! It was my 2nd Cirque du Soleil show, 1st for DH. We both loved it. It was Saturday night and full house, not an empty seat, and worth every penny. Definitely a must see, good for all ages.

The next morning we had breakfast at the Paris buffet (I was craving crepes since the Paris visit a few years ago), and the buffet has anything you can think of: eggs, numerous kinds of ham, cheese, jelly, croissants, muffins, you name it; it was all yummy. We then took a tour up the Paris tower, and left Las Vegas – destination: Grand Canyon.
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Old Oct 15th, 2005, 01:04 PM
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The drive to Grand Canyon was 4-5 hours long and very windy, at some point we thought the car might have a problem veering left. Nothing on the way prepares you for the ‘big hole in the ground’. We knew what to expect, but wow! The Grand Canyon is grand! We were amazed but it was kind of late so we only stopped at one overlook (Mather Point) then we went to check in. Kachina Lodge turned out to be very nice, right on the rim, and this time we had a room with the view.

We just dropped our bags in the room and went out. A lot cooler than in Las Vegas (the trip was in late August, early September) but pleasant; we only needed a light jacket. We walked a little, but night was coming and the rim trail has no lights, so we had to come back.

We had dinner at the Arizona Room, which was packed. Sorry to say, we were not impressed. My DH’s Cesar salad had corn and black beans, which was unusual for us and my Italian dressing was so spicy, I could not have the salad. I must admit, none of us enjoys spicy food and I understand this is the southwest, but these were supposed to be regular salads (or that’s what we thought). Anyway, the main entrees were much better.

The next day (after wonderful breakfast at El Tovar) we took the shuttle to the Hermit Rest and stopped at almost all the overlooks. They are all amazing, all different. We did not expect the canyon’s colors: green and red and brown and white – spectacular. We had a sandwich and a soda at Hermit Rest, again, another nice surprise – we did not expect any amenities there. We did not see any condors (too bad) but we saw lots of chipmunks. Oh well, for us city people, chipmunks are ‘wild life’.

And talking about wild life – there are signs everywhere: ‘do not feed the wildlife’. Don’t people see them, read them? Why do they still to try to feed any kind of bird or animal, big or small? We saw people trying to feed the chipmunks, rabbits, deer, ravens, anything. Go figure.

We are not big hikers, so we did not hike down the canyon. And I’m afraid of heights, so based on commentaries on this board I ruled out the mule ride. So in the afternoon, we took a drive the other side – towards the Desert View entrance of the park. The sunset light makes all the overlooks look different, the road was nearly empty – it was wonderful. Got to see some elks, too.

We returned to our hotel and had dinner at El Tovar – that was excellent. Following day, after another breakfast at El Tovar (their French toast is the best) we left Grand Canyon. Destination: Page.
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Old Oct 17th, 2005, 11:10 PM
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Topping in hopes that xyz99 will finish the trip report on Utah. I need to live vicariously through this report because I had hoped to make it to Utah in September but DH decided to use our vacation time to remodel the house....SO, xyz99....PLEASE FINISH!

Utahtea
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Old Oct 17th, 2005, 11:17 PM
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yes, we are waiting....going to GC in December for son's birthday and will have El Tovar booked for dinner that night...what did you have for dinner there?
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Old Oct 21st, 2005, 05:10 PM
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OK now, after a crazy week at work, here’s another weekend – I can relax with a glass of wine and work on my trip report.

Utahtea, yes, I will finish – it might take a while, though. And I’ll get to our Shafer Trail adventure, too …

emd, I can’t remember what we had for dinner at El Tovar – DH, definitely steak. He remembers it was very good. I think I had a rack of lamb, but not 100% sure. DH is mostly a meat eater, not very adventurous, so he’s happy with a steak/prime rib, etc. I love fish and I’m more adventurous, so I had during this trip buffalo shanks, elk steak, mouse steak…and a lot of fish. I was very happy with my dinners all the time, so I’m sure you will be, too. Go for breakfast at El Tovar – have the French toast with toasted hazelnuts.

Other topic: we usually rent regular sedan cars, this was the first time we rented an SUV. We wanted the SUV for only a few days – for the Monument Valley tour (better to be in an air conditioned car then the open ones they take you in), and depending on how much time we had, for the Capitol Reef tour. The SUV worked great in Monument Valley, we didn’t need it in Capitol Reef, but it came very handy for some off-roads we took. Not sure how, I always seem to find them and DH doesn’t object taking them. I almost got us killed once in Nova Scotia, but this is another story.

More about this trip to follow.
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Old Oct 21st, 2005, 06:27 PM
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Enjoying your trip and looking forward
to the next installment.
I appreciate all the details,
the more the better as they;re very
helpful to future travelers.
Thanks for posting~
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Old Oct 21st, 2005, 06:42 PM
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We reached Page at lunch time and stopped at the John Powell Museum. We inquired about the Antelope Canyon tour, got the info we needed and decided to have lunch first before the tour. We went across the street – some pizza place. We had a slice of pizza (very good) and returned to the museum. We booked our tour with Grand Circle Adventure, just across the street. This is the only company that takes you there in an air conditioned van and considering the not paved road to get there, this is great. The van can only seat 7 passengers, which makes a very small group – another good thing.

The drive to the canyon entrance is about 20 minutes, maybe longer – unpaved road, very bumpy. We enjoyed the stories our guide was telling – mostly about her childhood and life, the Navajo life stile, their struggles.

The canyon itself is amazing – I’m sure you’ve seen pictures, and they do a better job describing it than I would ever do. The colors you see in those pictures are real, the shapes and forms are real. I’ve never seen anything like this before, it was a wonderful experience. The tour lasted maybe 1 ½ hrs – there were other people in the canyon at the same time (other tours) but because we were such a small group, the other people didn’t seem to be a problem. We might’ve been a problem for some ‘real photographers’ in the canyon, but I’m sure they got their pictures.

At Page, we stayed at the Wahweep Marina. We had a lake view room, and the view was astonishing. The lake is so blue…looks like a too processed picture, looks unreal. We had only 1 night in Page, so we wanted to make the best of it. Well, we wanted the best of every day on this trip.

After the Antelope Canyon, on the way back to the hotel we stopped to some of the lake overlooks, and then we took a sunset dinner cruise on the lake. The ship had 2 levels and the lower one was set up with tables – the upper level was ‘saved’ for dessert and coffee, after dinner. Well, the ship was overbooked, our names (and a couple of Swiss and German families) were not on the list, so they put on the upper level – we had the entire floor for ourselves, better view, quieter – it was great. The food was good (big, tossed salad for appetizer, prime rib and key lime pie for desert – all very good). Wine was not included in the price, but you could pay extra for it. We did

The scenery is out of this world. Blue-blue water, red rocks, and on top of it, moon rising. Due to many years of drought (they said 7) the lake level is very low – you can see the bleached rocks to the level where water used to be. A few stories high.

Next day, we’ll be on our way to Monument Valley.


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Old Oct 22nd, 2005, 12:00 AM
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xyz99...so glad you are finishing your report!

"mouse steak" That must have been one small little tiny steak! I bet you meant moose steak

I've heard they call the bleached out rocks at Lake Powell the lakes "bathtub ring". LOL!

Utahtea

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Old Oct 22nd, 2005, 06:26 AM
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XYZ,

I'm really enjoying your report! I love to hear visitor's opinions and experiences in my home state.

Please continue!!!

By the way, we had a really big water and snow year last year and Lake Powell actually went up 60 feet. It still has a LONG way to go to fill up though!

Happy travels!!
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Old Oct 22nd, 2005, 06:50 AM
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Dayle,
Based on your recommendation on this forum we stayed at the Dreamkeeper Inn in Moab. It was wonderful, we loved it. Thanks

Utahtea,
Yes, that was a moose steak – definitely not a mouse one. I’m not that adventurous
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Old Oct 22nd, 2005, 02:01 PM
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The dining room at the Wahweep Marina (actually I think they call it the Lake Powell Marina now) is a great room – round, surrounded by glass windows, it offers a wonderful lake panorama. They had both a buffet breakfast as well as regular ‘order what you want’ kind. But with that view, anything you have is great.

So, after breakfast we left – first stop: Horseshoe Bend. This is an amazing place – I think I am exhausting the superlatives already for this trip report, but really, every step we took, every place we went, it was great, different than the previous one, wonderful in its own rights.

The hike to the Horseshoe Bend is short, maybe ½ hr or so, and we are in terrible shape. There is no shade, but we were there in the morning, it wasn’t that hot. The panorama itself is breathtaking. You don’t see it unless you are right on the edge of the cliff. Wow! The Colorado river is really green there – no idea how. And the cliffs so steep! I don’t like hights, so taking pictures there was a challenge – but I managed a couple of nice one. We could even see a couple boats down below….looked so tiny!

From there we went to Monument Valley, stopping at overlooks and Navajo Indians selling jewelries – we stayed at Goulding’s. The hotel has 2 rows of buildings, we had a room in the upper one facing the Monument Valley. Another wow! The hotel itself is built right underneath some huge rocks, weren’t they afraid that some of that rock might fall? We only dropped our bags in the room and went to visit the monument. It was great to be in an enclosed, air-conditioned car. The place itself is magic, unreal, with these huge rocks coming out of nowhere. It was around sunset and all the rocks were glowing red. The only disappointment: on our way out we wanted to stop again at the visitor center. The sunset was just beautiful, but they didn’t let us back in - Monument Valley closes at 7pm (it was maybe 6:40). Oh well, back to our hotel room.

We had dinner at the Gouldin’s, the only place during this trip where they did not serve alcohol. But the waiter told us they serve ‘non-alcoholic wine’. What’s that? Oh, tastes like wine, but there is no alcohol in it – he say. Ok, let’s try it. Big mistake. I had the white, DH had the red. He said his tasted like unsweetened Welch's grape juice – not like wine, but ok. Mine was terrible, so I had water only. Dinner was ok, nothing special, but surrounded by that scenery, we didn’t care much.

Next day, to Moab.
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Old Oct 22nd, 2005, 04:55 PM
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Hi xyz,

Glad you liked the Dreamkeeper! Can't wait to hear about your Moab adventures.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2005, 10:31 AM
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Loving your report, please continue!

You visisted some of our favorite places, especially Monument Valley and Gouldings ~ glorious scenery!

emd: we especially enjoyed the breakfasts at El Tovar, they're very creative with egg dishes (benedicts etc). Also, be sure to have their Belgian Hot Chocolate, out of this world!
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Old Oct 29th, 2005, 09:06 AM
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Sooooo,
We left Monument Valley early next morning; of course, we had to stop to take pictures - on rt. 89 (I think) looking back to Monument Valley is that long, straight road you see in movies and pictures. And there was no traffic at all.
We took a short detour to Goosenecks SP - amazing place. You are above the 'goosenecks' and they look like nothing you've seen before. Millions and millions of years underneath you, and you can see it all. Wow! The drive is nice too. You pass these multi-colored, multi-layered hills, white, red, purple, pink - like driving through a chocolate cake.ok, yes, I admit, I love chocolate
Oh, Ellen, how did I miss the Belgian Hot Chocolate at El Tovar? Now I have to go back!

From there, directly to Moab. We goat there around lunch time and our room at the Dreamkeeper Inn was not ready yet. So we stopped for lunch first at Moab Brewery ¡V extensive menu and good food (I think you can get a nice dinner there, too). And because we had some time after that we decided to drive route 128 to the Fisher Towers (thanks, Utahtea for the tip).
The drive is awesome! Every corner is different, the rocks are all red and amazing. And blue, blue sky everywhere! We took tons of pictures. And by the way, if you want to see them, they are posted to http://ioana-mark.smugmug.com/gallery/869881

The Fisher Towers are amazing things, too. There were no climbers when we were there and we walked a little bit around, but no real hike. After that, we got back to our B&B. Dayle, thank you! That is a wonderful place with great hosts. We had the Garden Room - great view, nice size, 2-sink bathroom (better than we have at home), pool, hot tub, cookies and coffee/tea everyday at 6 pm, great breakfast - we could've stayed there for the entire vacation. Highly recommended.

We had dinner that night at Buck's Grill house - we did not have reservations (it was Friday night, I think) so we had to wait. By the time we got seated, they were out of ribs, what a disappointment! Can't remember what I had - it was good, average, but nothing special.
Next day we'll visit Arches.


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Old Oct 29th, 2005, 02:51 PM
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Hi again Xyz,

I'm so glad you are continuing! I've had the Garden Room most often during my stays at the Dreamkeeper. Very comfy! Don't you love the 50's bath colors!! The house was originally custom built by a doctor who lived and practiced in Moab during the uranium boom years.

Looking forward to more...
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Old Oct 30th, 2005, 07:30 AM
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Hmm,
I almost forgot what was a highlight of our trip – the Delicate Arch hike! We did that the 1st day we got to Moab – the sunset was around 7:30 so we decided to do it. It was a great idea (I think Utahtea suggested it, when I was planning the trip). The original plan for the day was to take a detour to the Needles Overlook on the way to Moab; Utahtea suggested we skip that and hike Delicate Arch instead – great tip, thanks!

The hike itself is not bad. It was good we did it at the end of the day, when it was cooler. There is no shade, and even mid September day temperatures reach 90s. I think it was in the lower 80s that evening – but still very hot.

We missed the trail somehow almost to the end – so we ended up on the wrong side of the arch. We barely had time to go back and find the trail. I am afraid of heights, so the last segment on the ledge was pretty scary for me. Actually, I almost didn’t want to go further, but in the end I did. And so glad I did. Wow, the arch in that red-golden sunset light is amazing. And there was almost a full moon rising a little bit on the left side of the arch. Out of this world.

We rested, took in the view, took some pictures and headed back – it was getting dark. And we did not have a flashlight. On our way back we met this father + son duo (the son was maybe 5) rushing up to the arch. It was after sunset, and they were at least 20 minutes away. The father was determined to reach the arch, hope they made it.

Anyway, the hike down was a lot easier that going up and cooler. Lucky us for the full moon. If you do this hike at sunset (and I highly recommend it) don’t forget a flashlight. We were really careless not to have one, but everything was ok. The sight of the full moon over that landscape, the smell of the desert when everything cools down, all the sounds, I will always remember it.
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Old Oct 30th, 2005, 05:16 PM
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Great reading about your trip. My wife and I are leaving this Friday and had planned the same route that you took so reading about your adventures has provided some insights. But don't leave us hanging where did you go next?
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Old Oct 30th, 2005, 05:54 PM
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Arches NP is a great park – small, with very interesting formations arches but not only, and the road takes you close to a lot of them.
We drove first all the way to the end, we were told that the parking lot at Devil’s Garden is small and fills up early. We wanted to hike Landscape Arch, so that was a good tip.

The hike to Landscape Arch is short, maybe 1 mile, and flat. Very easy. But it was hot and there is no shade in the park. So we decided not to go further to Double Arch, but we went back instead. Please make sure you carry water in the park, we saw no fountain/shop anywhere.

After that, we took our time and drove through the park, stopping at all overlooks, stopping in a lot of places where the scenery was just amazing – that was everywhere! It was not too crowded but some parking lots were almost full. I was hoping to be able to also hike Park Avenue, but it was so hot and again, no shade, we skipped it.

We returned to our Dreamkeeper Inn oasis and enjoyed the afternoon by the pool. We toyed with the idea of leaving to hike Corona Arch, but the pool won.

The truth is, this trip was a little more rushed (more driving, less time spent in each place) than we like it. But because we don’t hike that much, this pace was ok. If we’d had to do it again, we would probably do it the same.

Dinner that night at Center Café – really nice place, with great food. I did not keep track of what we ate/where, but I remember places where we enjoyed our meals. The Center Café was one of them.

That afternoon, when we were by the pool discussing plans for the next day, our host suggested the Potash Road/Shafer Trail – we had an SUV after all. He said road was ok, not bad, I should not have a problem even with my fear of heights, it’s fun, sure you should do it. So that night we went to bed after studying topo maps…
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Old Oct 30th, 2005, 10:09 PM
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Xyz99, your trip report has been so much fun to read as we visited almost all of the places you've mentioned so far on our trip to that beautiful area 2 years ago. I think we even ate in the same 2 restaurants in Moab!

It sounds like you had a wonderful time. I'm looking forward to vicariously enjoying the rest of your trip!
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Old Oct 30th, 2005, 10:52 PM
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I so enjoyed looking at ALL your photos and so I know where you went and what you saw

I'm looking forward to hearing what you thought of all those places.

Utahtea
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