South Beach 2004 Trip Notes
Aug 12th, 2004, 12:19 PM
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South Beach 2004 Trip Notes
Only the truly insane choose to travel to southern Florida in the dead of summer-- heat, humidity, hurricane possibilities-- so I hid my lithium and made my reservations in South Beach to celebrate my 40th birthday with my sweetheart. I'll spare you the romantic details as much as possible and hit the highlights and lowlights.
We chose to fly American Airlines out of Long Beach (LGB) into Ft. Lauderdale/Hollywood (FLL), partly because it's five minutes from my house and partly because I got a great deal ($266 round trip per person). It involves a plane change in Dallas-Ft. Worth (DFW), which strikes fear in the hearts of all but the bravest travelers. And the insane (see above: No Lithium). American now flies 757s out of LGB, big skinny single-aisle planes with LRTC (Less Room Throughout Coach). This was a newer plane, clean and actually comfy. The plane out of DFW was a brand-new 737-800-- no complaints at all about this little baby. At FLL, at the Dollar Rent a Car counter, we got persuaded to upgrade to a Sebring convertible (we're such tourists-- and we both own Sebrings back home) and found a filthy example waiting for us. We went and complained, and got another one-- this time acceptably clean.
"Yes, let's put the top down!" was our battle cry, and we were off! Just in time to get a rain squall going down I-95. Traffic-- car stopped, we put up the top and had a good laugh....
We chose to fly American Airlines out of Long Beach (LGB) into Ft. Lauderdale/Hollywood (FLL), partly because it's five minutes from my house and partly because I got a great deal ($266 round trip per person). It involves a plane change in Dallas-Ft. Worth (DFW), which strikes fear in the hearts of all but the bravest travelers. And the insane (see above: No Lithium). American now flies 757s out of LGB, big skinny single-aisle planes with LRTC (Less Room Throughout Coach). This was a newer plane, clean and actually comfy. The plane out of DFW was a brand-new 737-800-- no complaints at all about this little baby. At FLL, at the Dollar Rent a Car counter, we got persuaded to upgrade to a Sebring convertible (we're such tourists-- and we both own Sebrings back home) and found a filthy example waiting for us. We went and complained, and got another one-- this time acceptably clean.
"Yes, let's put the top down!" was our battle cry, and we were off! Just in time to get a rain squall going down I-95. Traffic-- car stopped, we put up the top and had a good laugh....
Aug 12th, 2004, 12:28 PM
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We arrived at our hotel: the Cardozo (1300 Ocean Drive), the little hotel that could, thanks to the money and influence of its owners, Gloria and Emilio Estefan. My only choice in South Beach. Their valet service is pretty spotty, however-- no one was waiting to collect the car (we left keys with the front desk of the hotel). Still, the oceanview room waiting for us was comfortable and gorgeous. We adjusted the air conditioning and headed downstairs to the little bar for mojitos and negotiations for dinner. Great mojitos. We decided to eat at the Cardozo Café, which was just fine. A few more drinks and back to bed.
The air conditioning seemed to be struggling to maintain temperature, but valiently kept us cool for another day. A rainy day spent running errands and enjoying more mojitos. But the next day-- my birthday-- the A/C died. The patient was beyond resuscitation, and after quickly packing and running down to the front desk, we ended up being relocated into the oceanview SUITE next door. Living room (pull-out sofa), bedroom, 1 3/4 baths (including a two-person soaking tub *blush*). Arctic-blast air conditioning-- a big plus in the 2514.78% humidity they seem to turn on for me when I'm in Florida.
Now we were stylin'!! Super-comfy room. The only quibble was the Saturday night disco lounge music until 4 AM (but why were we asleep before 5?!)-- but you get used to EVERYTHING in South Beach....
The air conditioning seemed to be struggling to maintain temperature, but valiently kept us cool for another day. A rainy day spent running errands and enjoying more mojitos. But the next day-- my birthday-- the A/C died. The patient was beyond resuscitation, and after quickly packing and running down to the front desk, we ended up being relocated into the oceanview SUITE next door. Living room (pull-out sofa), bedroom, 1 3/4 baths (including a two-person soaking tub *blush*). Arctic-blast air conditioning-- a big plus in the 2514.78% humidity they seem to turn on for me when I'm in Florida.
Now we were stylin'!! Super-comfy room. The only quibble was the Saturday night disco lounge music until 4 AM (but why were we asleep before 5?!)-- but you get used to EVERYTHING in South Beach....
Aug 12th, 2004, 12:43 PM
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Happy Belated 40th Birthday rjw!
Glad you had a good time. Yes, only the insane choose south Florida this time of year and we aren't far behind you.
Something wonderful about that hot ocean water.
Did you get up to the Sky Bar at the Shore Club? Find a new place for mojitos?
Glad Wish and the two person tub worked out!
Glad you had a good time. Yes, only the insane choose south Florida this time of year and we aren't far behind you.
Something wonderful about that hot ocean water.
Did you get up to the Sky Bar at the Shore Club? Find a new place for mojitos?
Glad Wish and the two person tub worked out!
Aug 12th, 2004, 12:51 PM
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This whole trip ended up being a rest and relax getaway, so we didn't get to any of the places I wanted to check out (Ritz-Carlton South Beach, Nikki Beach Club, Azul, Vizcaya). However, we did revisit a couple of restaurants:
-- Wish (in The Hotel, Collins at 8th). New head chef Michael Bloise brings a fresh ethnic mix (Italian and Vietnamese) to the already wildly eclectic kitchen. From the amuse-bouche of tuna tartare to a five-spice pork chop to the Grand Marnier-spiked carrot cake, my first meal there was stupendous. My honey had the crispy-skinned snapper and a strawberry mousse kissed with a bizarre (but delicious) touch of basil. For the second meal we had, I let the chef whip up the special Vegetarian Five-- essentially five veggie dishes of his choosing. All wonderful, with a dazzling plantain-cilantro soup as the most unique dish. Incredibly expensive, but worth every penny. And the servers! Also incredible.
-- Nexxt Café (700 Lincoln Road). Impossibly popular joint with a menu like a phone book. Always super-busy. But we got in immediately at 10 PM on a Saturday night. Surprisingly great food, actually (and not just because a friend had given us a $50 gift certificate). I was happily surprised (the Zagat comments were kinda mixed). My only caveat: Anything they call spicy is, to my jaded and chili-seared palate, not. Tasty, yes. Spicy or hot? No. Just an observation.
-- Puerto Sagua (Collins at 7th). I have a special place in my heart for this grubby little Cuban diner. The food is so good, and the wait staff so homey and friendly, you just feel warm and fuzzy. The waitress kindly made us two iced cafés cubanos and fortified us for the home-style food that followed. I had the filete de pollo salteado (sautéed chicken fliet) with black beans and rice, and it was like my lost teenage year in Puerto Rico. Fantastic. And filling.
The beach was great, and the scene on Ocean Drive is as silly as always. We found a bar on Ocean that had little drag shows on weekend afternoons (the Palace, at 12th-- a gay bar, just so you know), and then made a point to have a couple of rounds there every day to watch the lip-synching, voguing drag queens. Too funny to watch them work the street corner, harassing passers-by (on foot or in a car, didn't matter).
The rest was a blur (combination of No Lithium and Lots of Booze), but then it was all over and we headed back home. Dodging hurricanes. FLL-DFW was on an MD80. An uneventful flight-- but is it just me, or do you NEVER want to hear a pilot say "And on the left side of the plane you can see Hurricane Bonnie?!"
DFW-LGB and an evening flight with a little bumpiness AND lightning flashes (but no strikes on the plane), but uneventful. Until we think the plane's off-course. I've flown into LGB dozens of times, but this time it was on one of the backup runways. Hard on the brakes (this runway's 2500 feet shorter than the usual one) and we're HOME!
Dull, I know, but we had a great time. Romance, laughs, drag shows-- I'm ready to go back!
-- Wish (in The Hotel, Collins at 8th). New head chef Michael Bloise brings a fresh ethnic mix (Italian and Vietnamese) to the already wildly eclectic kitchen. From the amuse-bouche of tuna tartare to a five-spice pork chop to the Grand Marnier-spiked carrot cake, my first meal there was stupendous. My honey had the crispy-skinned snapper and a strawberry mousse kissed with a bizarre (but delicious) touch of basil. For the second meal we had, I let the chef whip up the special Vegetarian Five-- essentially five veggie dishes of his choosing. All wonderful, with a dazzling plantain-cilantro soup as the most unique dish. Incredibly expensive, but worth every penny. And the servers! Also incredible.
-- Nexxt Café (700 Lincoln Road). Impossibly popular joint with a menu like a phone book. Always super-busy. But we got in immediately at 10 PM on a Saturday night. Surprisingly great food, actually (and not just because a friend had given us a $50 gift certificate). I was happily surprised (the Zagat comments were kinda mixed). My only caveat: Anything they call spicy is, to my jaded and chili-seared palate, not. Tasty, yes. Spicy or hot? No. Just an observation.
-- Puerto Sagua (Collins at 7th). I have a special place in my heart for this grubby little Cuban diner. The food is so good, and the wait staff so homey and friendly, you just feel warm and fuzzy. The waitress kindly made us two iced cafés cubanos and fortified us for the home-style food that followed. I had the filete de pollo salteado (sautéed chicken fliet) with black beans and rice, and it was like my lost teenage year in Puerto Rico. Fantastic. And filling.
The beach was great, and the scene on Ocean Drive is as silly as always. We found a bar on Ocean that had little drag shows on weekend afternoons (the Palace, at 12th-- a gay bar, just so you know), and then made a point to have a couple of rounds there every day to watch the lip-synching, voguing drag queens. Too funny to watch them work the street corner, harassing passers-by (on foot or in a car, didn't matter).
The rest was a blur (combination of No Lithium and Lots of Booze), but then it was all over and we headed back home. Dodging hurricanes. FLL-DFW was on an MD80. An uneventful flight-- but is it just me, or do you NEVER want to hear a pilot say "And on the left side of the plane you can see Hurricane Bonnie?!"
DFW-LGB and an evening flight with a little bumpiness AND lightning flashes (but no strikes on the plane), but uneventful. Until we think the plane's off-course. I've flown into LGB dozens of times, but this time it was on one of the backup runways. Hard on the brakes (this runway's 2500 feet shorter than the usual one) and we're HOME!
Dull, I know, but we had a great time. Romance, laughs, drag shows-- I'm ready to go back!
Aug 12th, 2004, 12:56 PM
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... yes, the chef's veggie dish at Wish is amazingly good. Loved the courtyard. And yes, Ocean Av is a trip!!!! One other nifty thing, walking the beach at night from the Delano back to our hotel on Ocean, near 2nd. Great visuals, all the deco lights and smells.
Aug 12th, 2004, 12:59 PM
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A mojito is a Cuban mixed drink typically consisting of light rum, lime juice, simple syrup and muddled mint leaves, served over ice. Very refreshing and deadly on a hot summer day. Wear clothes you can crawl in.
Aug 12th, 2004, 01:16 PM
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Go: You're so right (and I'm so corrected)! Muddle the mint leaves with the key limes, dump in crushed ice, add rum and syrup, sip with straw. Repeat-- often.
One mojito,
Two mojito,
Three mojito,
Floor!
(Betty Ford Center reservations not included.)
One mojito,
Two mojito,
Three mojito,
Floor!
(Betty Ford Center reservations not included.)
Aug 12th, 2004, 01:21 PM
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Wish does a frozen blended version called a mojito-tini (complete with electric light ice cube)-- delicious enough to risk brain freeze!
Best part? Despite breaking my South Beach Diet pledge, I only gained one pound over the week. Whoo-HOO!!!!
Best part? Despite breaking my South Beach Diet pledge, I only gained one pound over the week. Whoo-HOO!!!!
Aug 12th, 2004, 01:54 PM
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buckeyemom, how are you? You're right, it does remind one of a mint julep ("One mint julep/Was the start of it all"-- can't you hear Sarah Vaughan wailing that great song?), but it's better. And I'm craving one right now....
