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Songdoc's MISERABLE WEATHER Kauai Trip Report

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Songdoc's MISERABLE WEATHER Kauai Trip Report

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Old Feb 2nd, 2008, 09:21 AM
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Songdoc's MISERABLE WEATHER Kauai Trip Report

Those of you who are regulars may recall that when planning this trip, I AGONIZED over whether to stay at the North Shore condo that I love so much (Sealodge G-2; www.nakearentals.com) – or to bow to what seemed to be the popular wisdom -- and avoid the North Shore during the rainy winter months. After weighing all the options and getting lots of opinions, I decided to take my chances on the weather, hoping for at least one or two days when it didn’t pour all day.

As the trip approached, I checked the weather reports online and it looked as if I should indeed prepare for the worst. In anticipation of those cloudy, stormy days, DP and I packed umbrellas, rain gear, two books each, and a stack of magazines to catch up on. And looking forward to long days, gazing out at the storms over the ocean, I packed my laptop, eager to make a dent in a book I’ve been writing forever.

We flew SW to L.A. to and then, on to Oakland. Following a three hour layover, we transferred to ATA to Lihue. The ATA flight was packed and the flight attendants were miserable. They needed some serious attitude adjustment. They practically barked at the passengers, at one point saying that the beverage carts weigh 220 pounds and you’d better get out of the aisles if you don’t want to get hit with one! (And this was not being said in a light-hearted or joking manner.) FYI, the attendants on the return trip were fine – but the flight was still miserably cramped—with much less leg room than the shorter SW flights.

And talk about “no frills” … if you wanted a blanket and pillow that was $9.95. There wasn’t even a free peanut. Peanuts were $4.95—and there was a charge to rent a headset – and this is on a flight that’s almost six hours. But … the price was significantly better than another airline—so I brought my own peanuts. But I still reserve the right to grumble about it.

As expected, it was raining when we arrived in Lihue, but I was emotionally prepared for it. So, imagine my bitter disappointment when we awoke the first morning in Princeville to a glorious sunrise (that we could watch from bed), giving way to bright blue skies, puffy white clouds, and lots of sunshine. Had coffee and breakfast on the balcony, enjoying that breathtaking view and watching a parade of whales—well, whale spouts in the distance. By the time we’d strolled at Sealodge beach, the 15 hours of hell it took to get there were forgotten—well, almost 

After that first day of miserable 78 degree sunshine we had eight consecutive days of similarly hideous weather. It never rained more than 20 minutes, once or twice a day—and some days we never saw a sprinkle during waking hours. There were typically brief cloudy periods and five or ten minutes of rain in the morning—but they were soon followed by more of that unpleasant sun, with an occasional cloudy period.

I managed to work on the book a couple of hours each morning, sitting blissfully on the balcony, gazing up to see the sea birds swooping. But with that nasty weather, I soon found myself out taking long walks on those beautiful North Shore beaches.

Bear in mind that we’d done several previous trips to Kauai, so this vacation was about getting some much-needed rest and relaxation—not about seeing the “must-see” sights; we’d already seen them. So, lots of time was spent sitting in the comfy, over-stuffed rocking chairs in front of the windows, or on the balcony, soaking in that spectacular view of the coastline, with the Kilauea Lighthouse in the distance, and catching glimpses of whales.

Beaches: I’m not a big snorkeler or swimmer, but I love long walks on beautiful beaches and I certainly got my fill. The waves were huge at Ke’e and the late afternoon light on the Napali cliffs was spectacular. There was only one brave soul in the water. This has always been one of my favorite spots – and it was especially beautiful with those waves crashing.

We loved Anini Beach and it was perfect day—except for that nasty sunshine . Anini is only a couple of miles from the condo, but we’d never visited it before. The water was smooth as glass and crystal clear. It was a perfect place to stroll. The only negative is that there was quite a bit of sharp edged stones and coral, and water shoes would have made it perfect. After walking along in calf-high water for quite a while, I took the plunge. The water was a bit cooler than I’d have preferred, but refreshing and wonderful.

The snorkelers at Anini reported seeing a couple of different varieties of fish close to shore, but I only saw tiny black ones (which was fine with me, as I classify swimming with fish, only slightly above having cockroaches and sewer rats crawl all over me).

Also enjoyed strolling along Baby Beach in Kapa’a following breakfast at Kountry Kitchen. I think we would have had to walk to Australia to offset the calories in that “luau omelet” – but it was AMAZING. (More about food later.)

I love the Maha’upela beaches (near the Hyatt Grand on the south shore). They’re like no other Kauai beach; with rugged cliffs to climb, and an utterly unearthly quality. After a long walk along the beach and the cliffs, late in the afternoon, we watched wind surfers literally sailing high above the waves as the sun sunk lower, painting the cliffs with shadows and light. I just wish the dirt road to get there wasn’t so horrid—but I managed to avoid breaking an axle. (These were the worst potholes I’ve ever seen.)

Hiking: FYI … I’ve done the first two miles of the Kalalau Trail twice—and also did the additional four miles to the waterfall. Last summer, I really got banged up and scraped from slipping on the impossibly slick, muddy trails. At one point, I slammed face first into a rock, while crossing a stream. That was when I decided that endangering my life is no longer my idea of fun.

That said, we looked forward to at least the first several miles of the Nuolo/Awa trail. But the first mile or so was so muddy and slippery, we gave up. Same deal with the Pihea Trail. It was an endurance test—not fun.

Waimea Canyon was just as breathtaking as it had been during my last visit. But this time, when we arrived at the Kalalau Lookout, the vista was gone – completely eclipsed by clouds. How disappointing. I felt especially sorry for those who’d driven all the way there and had never seen it before … But wait … the clouds passed a few minutes later to reveal the most spectacular rainbow crowning that glorious view.

Not to seem like a total mush … but I almost cried from the sheer beauty. We spent quite a while gazing in awe of what I think must be one of the most incredibly beautiful spots on earth, alternately covered by mystical mists that gave way to brilliant sunshine—and that rainbow.

By the time we ventured on to the Pihea Lookout, the rainbow was being joined by a friend—not as vivid and intense as the primary rainbow, but it was utterly magical, nonetheless to see a double rainbow. FYI, hikers returning from the Pihea trail were slathered in mud. They reported that it was very slippery, and that the views remained basically the same—so we settled for the mind bogglingly beautiful views at the top.

Whale Watching:
We saw countless spouts from our window and balcony, but decided to visit the Kilauea Lighthouse where, according to the guide books, the whales typically put on the best show. Apparently, the whales didn’t get the memo – because we didn’t see a single whale from the lighthouse. But it sure is pretty.

Hoping to get a little more up close and personal, we booked a 2-hour sunset cruise/whale watch with Blue Dolphin. The Napali cliffs boat ride I took last summer, from the North Shore was spectacular—but more of a thrill ride than I was in the mood for. I just wanted to relax and see whales.

Well, that’s just what we did. The cruise was terrific. The staff was friendly and skilled. We saw lots of whales—mostly spouts, backs, and tails. I wouldn’t say we were “close,” but a few hundred yards away. For a while, we were surrounded by bottlenose dolphins and spinner dolphins. That was quite a thrill.

Our best whale watching came when we least expected it. En route to the Maha’upela beaches, we stopped at Spouting Horn. From there, we saw twenty or more whales, much closer than from our condo.

Food:
We’re not “foodies” and many of our meals were eaten at the condo. For those looking for a romantic dinner, I promise you couldn’t possibly surpass one dinner we had. Following a Caesar salad with fresh organic greens, we had jumbo shrimp sautéed in garlic, with sun-dried tomatoes, mushrooms, and onions, served atop spinach pasta, and freshly-picked, steamed, organic broccoli drizzled with parmesan. We ate by candlelight, watching the sun set over that phenomenal view -- from our private balcony. No restaurant could be more romantic than that . (I’d be glad to have you fly me to Kauai to cook for you!)

Our first day (a Thursday), we went to the 4:30pm farmer’s market in Kilauea. (The markets are in different areas on different days.) We stocked up on broccoli and carrots that had been picked only hours earlier; the best grapefruit I’ve ever eaten (and it still had the stem and leaves attached); an amazing pineapple; bananas, and organic lettuce. We picked up a delicious rotisserie chicken at Foodland and had all we needed for our feasts.

Several times we picked up excellent deli sandwiches and pre-made salads from Foodland for ready-made picnics. We also got a tasty “plate lunch” of Oriental food.

Most breakfasts were fresh pineapple and bananas, with oatmeal on our balcony as the sun rose higher and the whales swam by. But we had to make a couple (okay, three) trips to the amazing Kountry Kitchen in Kapa’a. The “luau” omelet (with kahlua pork, spinach, onions, and cheese), served with fresh-from-the-oven corn bread and home fries was phenomenal—and enough food for an entire day (although I did manage to eat again by dinner time). The macadamia nut and banana pancakes are massive and the best taste imaginable.

We enjoyed two meals at Neide’s Brazilian/Mexican restaurant. It’s one of our favorites and very reasonably priced. Love the outdoor setting and the Panquecas (Brazilian crepes stuffed with vegetables, chicken, cheese) served with rice, beans, and chips. Also enjoyed the steaks.

Waipouli Family restaurant in the Waipouli shopping center is a little hole in the wall with no atmosphere and simply the most delicious Chinese food I’ve ever had. I wondered if the broccoli with beef could possibly live up to my recollection … and it did! DP’s chicken dish also got rave reviews.

I returned to Hamura’s Saimin because DP had never been there. The first time I went, I’d been underwhelmed. I thought it was “good” – but didn’t see what all the fuss about. Well, maybe knowing what to expect (and how to order) made the difference – but I thought it was excellent. The teriyaki chicken and steak skewers were fantastic, as was the “special” Saimin. And it was really fun to talk with the others at the counter.

So … it really is possible to enjoy delicious meals, have an incredible time -- and not spend a fortune in Kauai.

One more comment about the weather before I close… During our cruise to Alaska, at one of the ports, we had a bright sunny day—and were told it had rained for 27 consecutive days prior to our arrival. So, I don’t know if we’re just exceptionally lucky, or if very brief showers and intermittent periods of clouds turn people off from the North Shore. I admit I would not have had nearly as good a time if it had poured for days. I would have relaxed and worked on the book … but I would have been disappointed to not be able to walk on those beautiful beaches.

Thanks to Ambien and lots of empty seats on the flight, I stretched out and slept most of the way home. The orchids I brought home, DP, and I would much rather be in Kauai, but at least I get to plan my next visit (July). Life is tough . Sadly, the Sealodge condo I love is already booked. Luckily, there are other similar units available.

Mahalo for all your help when I was planning my first trip. Hopefully, I’ll get some pix posted soon.

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Old Feb 2nd, 2008, 12:20 PM
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Thanks Songdoc for your description of heaven. We feel the same way about the BI and continue to go back there.
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Old Feb 2nd, 2008, 03:12 PM
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Songdoc, a great report! You have described some of my favorite places and I too get choked up sometimes Thanks for sharing your memories.
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Old Feb 2nd, 2008, 04:45 PM
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It's brutal when the weather is like that. You and your sun-baked skin should be commended for putting up with such horrible conditions. Tell me you got sunburned, right? Serves you right for going to the North shore against all that advice.
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Old Feb 2nd, 2008, 06:53 PM
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A tough time in Kauai eh Songdoc?

I loved your trip report and oh your time on Kauai sounds fantastic. Thank you for sharing it..a bit of sunshine at least mentally as where I am had another day of a gloomy gray sky and more rain.
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Old Feb 2nd, 2008, 07:11 PM
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What a shame!
You handled it well.
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Old Feb 2nd, 2008, 07:12 PM
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Great TR Songdoc!

It just goes to show how much "attitude" comes into play when traveling. Go to the places you enjoy and if life throws you showers, make some 's.

Counting the days till our return to the Garden Isle.

BTW: Had you flown on ATA previously?
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Old Feb 2nd, 2008, 08:45 PM
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The good news....I love this report!

The bad news for me....sounds like another destination on an already long list!
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Old Feb 2nd, 2008, 11:18 PM
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No Cheesy Eggs at Kountry Kitchen?? You really should try Cheese Eggs!

And no ATA for a snob like me!

A dream report, really!

Anna Roz
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Old Feb 4th, 2008, 04:22 AM
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Lucky! Now I want to see pics of those Lookout Rainbows!
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Old Feb 4th, 2008, 06:50 AM
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Thanks for the wonderful trip report!!! Have you now had 3 trips to Kauai in 12 months?? You lucky guy!!
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Old Feb 4th, 2008, 09:09 AM
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Thanks very much, Songdoc, you are so lucky!
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Old Feb 4th, 2008, 09:24 AM
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I've finally got my pictures posted. Thanks for all your kind comments about my report. There are a few things I wanted to add ...

Yes, I'm incredibly lucky -- and very grateful for it.

I'd flown ATA previously, but it wasn't quite as awful. I probably won't have to worry about it again, though ... because SW is discontinuing its partnership, effective May.

I haven't had the cheesy eggs at Kountry Kitchen. So, now there will be another thing I have to order next time! Agghhh. I've already gained three pounds, just thinking about it.

Actually, I've had three trips to Kauai in the past 18 months -- and there will be one more in July for the Kauai Music Festival.

Life is tough ... I'm currently planning my first trip to New Zealand and Australia. I'll be gone a month -- and will teach seminars in three cities. I'll be working a total of ... (don't hate me) ... 8 days!!!

And later this year I'll be doing my annual trip to teach ... in Ireland!!! FYI, I worked years and years and sacrificed more than you'd believe to get this "lucky." But I'm grateful every day.

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Old Feb 4th, 2008, 11:24 AM
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After that terrible experience, you should understand why so many people no longer recommend Kauai: there's too much weather, all you do is lay around, and the whales are always blocking the view.

Maui is a much better place for tourists, with a lot more things to do.
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Old Feb 4th, 2008, 01:07 PM
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I love Hawaii and can't wait to go back!!!! Thanks for the report, you made me wistful for a few minutes, and it felt great!
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Old Feb 4th, 2008, 05:44 PM
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Songdoc-Lovely, lovely, lovely trip report! We were in Kauai Nov. '06 and flew out of Oakland on ATA. I totally understand your experience. I couldn't believe that we had to pay for a pillow and blanket! I too felt cramped to the point of claustrophobia; I thought it was just me. But it was cheaper and once you arrive in Kauai, you forget the pain. lol

I agonized about staying on the North Shore as well. We had beautiful weather just like you described. I am so glad we stayed by Anini Beach. Loved it! The North Shore is the best. Don't you agree? Thanks again for the great trip report.
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Old Feb 4th, 2008, 06:26 PM
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Great report Songdoc - made me hungry though!
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Old Feb 5th, 2008, 01:08 AM
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fantastic report! I really enjoyed reading it.
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Old Feb 5th, 2008, 02:08 AM
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Great TR, Songdoc. Mahalo!!
I stayed at Sea Lodge (in F building) for the first time in September and LOVED it.
Darn it, I was recently thinking a return trip could wait a several years. Reading your report make that unlikely.
Thanks again.
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Old Feb 5th, 2008, 07:16 AM
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Songdoc, your timing was perfect -- after you left, our reliable winter rains returned...in force.

Don't know if anyone's been watching Kaua`i weather in the past week, but we just had one heck of a wet, wet weekend...island-wide. Our Mt. Wai`ale`ale got 24 inches of rain in just three days; Hanapepe River flooded; Hanalei Bridge closed for a day; Wainiha Bridges closed due to flooding -- which broke the water main supplying Wainiha and Ha`ena:
http://www.kauaiworld.com/articles/2...ews/news01.txt

The waterfalls were extraordinarily abundant -- and spectacular!

We got a bit of sunshine yesterday, and are optimistic that today will bring us blue skies. 8-)
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