Songdoc's Big Island Trip Report
Aug 29th, 2006, 05:13 PM
#1
Original Poster
Songdoc's Big Island Trip Report
BIG ISLAND TRIP REPORT 8/9 - 13
The flight from Kauai to Hilo (with a stop in Honolulu) was painless, as was the car rental (with Budget -- booked through Hawaii Discount Car Rentals). We quickly checked into our room at Volcano Inn and loved it. It was a great bargain at $76.88 – INCLUDING tax. The walls were primarily glass, affording a sense of waking in a rainforest. The room was attractive and spotless, but its main attraction was its close proximity to VNP -- about a five minute drive. We dropped off our bags and headed to VNP, arriving around 4:00pm.
After a stop at the visitor center, the first view was of Kilauea Iki, essentially a huge caldera of black lava (that looked like dry tar). Quite a few vents with white smoke were billowing up and we walked slowly around it -- to the Thurston lava tube -- about 30 minutes (we could have driven quite close to the lava tube if we‘d chosen, but preferred to walk). We loved the lava tube -- fascinating! It’s well lit, but we also entered a second lava tube that was pitch black. There were flashlights available. Again, very interesting.
Next, we drove the Chain of Craters road, stopping to take pix of the expansive, dry, black lava fields left behind from previous eruptions. There were several nice photo ops along the way. At the end of the road, there were an incredible number of cars parked along the coast and huge plumes of white steam were visible where the lava met the coast in the distance.
We joined the mob hoping to catch a glimpse of red lava against the night sky, and hiked about two miles -- first on the road, and then where the lava had covered the road. Walking on the lava was tricky--it was jagged, very uneven, and had lots of holes. This was NOT an easy walk and I was very concerned about returning in the dark. FYI, most people stopped where we did -- but a small percentage hiked much closer to the flow—an additional 2 miles. Perched on a rock near the water, we waited for the sun to set. The rangers’ signs stated that “dark” would be at 7:25pm. By around 7:20pm we began seeing red glow in the distance where the lava reached the sea. It was very cool!!! There were flashes of red every few minutes.
Although we had flashlights, I was eager to return before it was 100% dark. We hiked about an hour back to the car, feeling as if we’d seen something very special. I’m amazed that at least twenty people don’t get injured each night. I’m NOT a total wuss--but truly felt lucky that I didn’t fall. A fall on that lava could easily result in severe gashes -- not to mention broken bones or twisted ankles. It was a long, dark drive back through the park to Volcano and we were definitely ready for dinner. But when we got to Volcano Village, the first restaurant we stopped at was out of anything we wanted. The only other restaurant open was Thai Thai -- and they were only willing to prepare take-out because it was 8:55pm. Five minutes later, we would have gone hungry -- so be forewarned. We wished we’d brought a picnic out on the lava.
The next morning, our first stop was Akatsuka orchids (between Hilo and Volcano)--highly recommended for orchid lovers. WOW. I bought nine gorgeous orchids and the total charge to ship them Fed Ex to Tennessee was only $43 -- and they were guaranteed to have the plants and buds arrive safely. (Don’t ask what I spent on the orchids!) Well, my orchids have arrived and frankly, I was shocked to find them all in PERFECT condition! It’s nice to have a little piece of Hawaii back home with me.
Breakfast at the Lava Rock Café in Volcano Village was FANTASTIC; the best French toast imaginable (with lilikoi butter). It was so good that I almost forgave the forty-five minutes it took for the food to arrive -- after we’d ordered.
En route to Akaka Falls, we took the “4 mile scenic route.” This was a great move because we came upon a trail just before the Hawaii Botanic Gardens. The trail was marked by a hand-painted sign stating something like “great photo spot.” (I think it was put up by the guy selling hand-woven coconut palm leaf baskets.) This easy hike was GORGEOUS; essentially allowing views of many of the same things one would see at the Botanic Gardens -- but unlabeled. At the bottom, we were rewarded with incredibly beautiful views, including a waterfall.
We stopped for lunch at a roadside stand with excellent sandwiches, smoothies, and GREAT coffee. Loved Akaka Falls State Park. While the falls were very impressive indeed, for me, the highlight was the setting. The easy, paved loop (less than thirty minutes) afforded views that could double for the Garden of Eden--utterly primeval and truly breathtaking.
It was time to leave for the Aloha Guest House, the B&B that would be our home in Captain Cook, on the Kona side. Maybe I’d been spoiled by lush Kauai and Hilo, but I was disappointed by the beaches and the views in general on the Kona side. A stop at the Punaluu black sand beach park was neat, though!
I’d found the Aloha Guest House online. The mile-long driveway was bumpy, pot-holed, twisting and turning, with huge dips that brought to mind an E-ticket Disney ride -- I wondered what I’d gotten myself into. The B&B had looked incredible online -- but it was even more impressive in person. There’s no way to describe the view from our room. Check out: www:alohaguesthouse.com. FYI, the B&B is gay-run (although the clientele was a nice mix of hetero and gay couples) and not to perpetuate stereotypes but this place was EXQUISITELY decorated, with no expense spared. Everything from the sophisticated lighting, to the Egyptian cotton sheets, and the three-headed shower were first class and well worth the $250/nt for our top-priced room. The delicious breakfasts were works of art, with entrees adorned with fresh orchids. Papayas picked along the driveway became smoothies. This place is incredible and I can hardly imagine a better B&B -- and by the way, snorkel gear was included. Kayaks were available for an additional fee. The hosts were a wealth of information about off-the-beaten track trails and beaches -- and conversations around the dining table were a highlight.
We watched snorkelers and kayakers at nearby Kealakekua Bay, famous for its abundance of dolphins. Unfortunately, no dolphins were spotted while we were there, but guests at the B&B reported swimming and frolicking with entire pods of them the following day. They said the snorkeling was extraordinary around the Capt. Cook monument. (I prefer “shorkeling” -- watching from a comfy perch on the shore!)
We enjoyed meals in the Kona area at Senor Billy’s, the Angel Café, Evie’s, and Paparoni’s. The “Place of Refuge” at Puuhonua o Honaunau National Historic Park was interesting and very pretty, but the beach itself lacked the “WOW” factor of other places we’d seen on this trip. The beach at the Mauna Kea resort on the Kohala coast was a perfect place to swim and very pretty, but still felt more like a beach in Florida, than the lush, dramatic settings I’d fallen in love with on Kauai.
An interesting and unusual hour was spent at Ocean Rider, a commercial sea horse farm, about a mile south of the Kona airport. During the one-hour tour ($20), we saw the tanks of newborn seahorses and were able to have pix taken with large adult seahorses anchoring their tails to our fingers. By the way, this tour was great for kids.
Driving north, the terrain was so dry and barren that I felt as if I were in the desert in the U.S. Southwest, complete with sagebrush and cactus. We came upon Lapakahi State Park -- and it was a definite highlight. Finally, those gorgeous, take-your-breath-away views that fit my fantasy of Hawaii. It was the ruins of a 600 year old village, and those ancient Hawaiians knew how to pick real estate! This place was gorgeous and there were only a handful of visitors on a Sunday afternoon. I’d say it’s not to be missed. But FYI, the last entry is at 3:30pm -- and the gate is locked at 4:00pm.
Continuing north, we stopped for lunch and browsing at the mall at Waikoloa. It was like Beverly Hills at the ocean--with Tiffany’s, Louis Vuitton, etc. and some beautiful art galleries and jewelry stores. Not my thing, but a pleasant fifteen minute diversion. We ate at the mall’s waterfront food court -- at what surely must be the most beautifully located Subway sandwich shop in the world! Four hours after leaving Capt. Cook (we’d made lots of stops at scenic lookouts and trails) we arrived in the quaint little town of Hawi; very charming, with some extremely pricey shops. (I admired a beautiful, carved wood bowl but almost choked when I saw the $3,195 price tag!!!) Enjoyed browsing in the picturesque antique shop. Continued on to Keokea beach park and loved the views of the cliffs, and watching the surfers. I felt the prettiest scenery on the Kona side was clustered at its northern tip. Otherwise, it mostly seemed like desolate, barren lava fields.
We took the inland road back to Waimea to experience yet a completely different terrain and climate. It was only 68 degrees midday -- which felt like heaven, compared to sweltering Nashville. Much of the landscape felt otherworldly--like viewing the moon. We were treated to a beautiful sunset as we headed back toward the airport, to say farewell to Hawaii.
The trip ended up being quite different than I’d anticipated. I’d expected to be lounging around a pool or sunning on a beach—basically, relaxing. Instead, I put more than 1,000 miles on my rental cars, hiked in places that exceeded my wildest fantasies of tropical paradise, and saw some of the most breathtaking scenery on Earth. I had a GREAT time -- but now, I need a few days off to recover!
Mahalo to all of those who shared their experiences to help me plan this trip.
PS. By the way, the flights back were great. It was easy to sleep and the time “flew” by.
PPS. Link to pix to follow
The flight from Kauai to Hilo (with a stop in Honolulu) was painless, as was the car rental (with Budget -- booked through Hawaii Discount Car Rentals). We quickly checked into our room at Volcano Inn and loved it. It was a great bargain at $76.88 – INCLUDING tax. The walls were primarily glass, affording a sense of waking in a rainforest. The room was attractive and spotless, but its main attraction was its close proximity to VNP -- about a five minute drive. We dropped off our bags and headed to VNP, arriving around 4:00pm.
After a stop at the visitor center, the first view was of Kilauea Iki, essentially a huge caldera of black lava (that looked like dry tar). Quite a few vents with white smoke were billowing up and we walked slowly around it -- to the Thurston lava tube -- about 30 minutes (we could have driven quite close to the lava tube if we‘d chosen, but preferred to walk). We loved the lava tube -- fascinating! It’s well lit, but we also entered a second lava tube that was pitch black. There were flashlights available. Again, very interesting.
Next, we drove the Chain of Craters road, stopping to take pix of the expansive, dry, black lava fields left behind from previous eruptions. There were several nice photo ops along the way. At the end of the road, there were an incredible number of cars parked along the coast and huge plumes of white steam were visible where the lava met the coast in the distance.
We joined the mob hoping to catch a glimpse of red lava against the night sky, and hiked about two miles -- first on the road, and then where the lava had covered the road. Walking on the lava was tricky--it was jagged, very uneven, and had lots of holes. This was NOT an easy walk and I was very concerned about returning in the dark. FYI, most people stopped where we did -- but a small percentage hiked much closer to the flow—an additional 2 miles. Perched on a rock near the water, we waited for the sun to set. The rangers’ signs stated that “dark” would be at 7:25pm. By around 7:20pm we began seeing red glow in the distance where the lava reached the sea. It was very cool!!! There were flashes of red every few minutes.
Although we had flashlights, I was eager to return before it was 100% dark. We hiked about an hour back to the car, feeling as if we’d seen something very special. I’m amazed that at least twenty people don’t get injured each night. I’m NOT a total wuss--but truly felt lucky that I didn’t fall. A fall on that lava could easily result in severe gashes -- not to mention broken bones or twisted ankles. It was a long, dark drive back through the park to Volcano and we were definitely ready for dinner. But when we got to Volcano Village, the first restaurant we stopped at was out of anything we wanted. The only other restaurant open was Thai Thai -- and they were only willing to prepare take-out because it was 8:55pm. Five minutes later, we would have gone hungry -- so be forewarned. We wished we’d brought a picnic out on the lava.
The next morning, our first stop was Akatsuka orchids (between Hilo and Volcano)--highly recommended for orchid lovers. WOW. I bought nine gorgeous orchids and the total charge to ship them Fed Ex to Tennessee was only $43 -- and they were guaranteed to have the plants and buds arrive safely. (Don’t ask what I spent on the orchids!) Well, my orchids have arrived and frankly, I was shocked to find them all in PERFECT condition! It’s nice to have a little piece of Hawaii back home with me.
Breakfast at the Lava Rock Café in Volcano Village was FANTASTIC; the best French toast imaginable (with lilikoi butter). It was so good that I almost forgave the forty-five minutes it took for the food to arrive -- after we’d ordered.
En route to Akaka Falls, we took the “4 mile scenic route.” This was a great move because we came upon a trail just before the Hawaii Botanic Gardens. The trail was marked by a hand-painted sign stating something like “great photo spot.” (I think it was put up by the guy selling hand-woven coconut palm leaf baskets.) This easy hike was GORGEOUS; essentially allowing views of many of the same things one would see at the Botanic Gardens -- but unlabeled. At the bottom, we were rewarded with incredibly beautiful views, including a waterfall.
We stopped for lunch at a roadside stand with excellent sandwiches, smoothies, and GREAT coffee. Loved Akaka Falls State Park. While the falls were very impressive indeed, for me, the highlight was the setting. The easy, paved loop (less than thirty minutes) afforded views that could double for the Garden of Eden--utterly primeval and truly breathtaking.
It was time to leave for the Aloha Guest House, the B&B that would be our home in Captain Cook, on the Kona side. Maybe I’d been spoiled by lush Kauai and Hilo, but I was disappointed by the beaches and the views in general on the Kona side. A stop at the Punaluu black sand beach park was neat, though!
I’d found the Aloha Guest House online. The mile-long driveway was bumpy, pot-holed, twisting and turning, with huge dips that brought to mind an E-ticket Disney ride -- I wondered what I’d gotten myself into. The B&B had looked incredible online -- but it was even more impressive in person. There’s no way to describe the view from our room. Check out: www:alohaguesthouse.com. FYI, the B&B is gay-run (although the clientele was a nice mix of hetero and gay couples) and not to perpetuate stereotypes but this place was EXQUISITELY decorated, with no expense spared. Everything from the sophisticated lighting, to the Egyptian cotton sheets, and the three-headed shower were first class and well worth the $250/nt for our top-priced room. The delicious breakfasts were works of art, with entrees adorned with fresh orchids. Papayas picked along the driveway became smoothies. This place is incredible and I can hardly imagine a better B&B -- and by the way, snorkel gear was included. Kayaks were available for an additional fee. The hosts were a wealth of information about off-the-beaten track trails and beaches -- and conversations around the dining table were a highlight.
We watched snorkelers and kayakers at nearby Kealakekua Bay, famous for its abundance of dolphins. Unfortunately, no dolphins were spotted while we were there, but guests at the B&B reported swimming and frolicking with entire pods of them the following day. They said the snorkeling was extraordinary around the Capt. Cook monument. (I prefer “shorkeling” -- watching from a comfy perch on the shore!)
We enjoyed meals in the Kona area at Senor Billy’s, the Angel Café, Evie’s, and Paparoni’s. The “Place of Refuge” at Puuhonua o Honaunau National Historic Park was interesting and very pretty, but the beach itself lacked the “WOW” factor of other places we’d seen on this trip. The beach at the Mauna Kea resort on the Kohala coast was a perfect place to swim and very pretty, but still felt more like a beach in Florida, than the lush, dramatic settings I’d fallen in love with on Kauai.
An interesting and unusual hour was spent at Ocean Rider, a commercial sea horse farm, about a mile south of the Kona airport. During the one-hour tour ($20), we saw the tanks of newborn seahorses and were able to have pix taken with large adult seahorses anchoring their tails to our fingers. By the way, this tour was great for kids.
Driving north, the terrain was so dry and barren that I felt as if I were in the desert in the U.S. Southwest, complete with sagebrush and cactus. We came upon Lapakahi State Park -- and it was a definite highlight. Finally, those gorgeous, take-your-breath-away views that fit my fantasy of Hawaii. It was the ruins of a 600 year old village, and those ancient Hawaiians knew how to pick real estate! This place was gorgeous and there were only a handful of visitors on a Sunday afternoon. I’d say it’s not to be missed. But FYI, the last entry is at 3:30pm -- and the gate is locked at 4:00pm.
Continuing north, we stopped for lunch and browsing at the mall at Waikoloa. It was like Beverly Hills at the ocean--with Tiffany’s, Louis Vuitton, etc. and some beautiful art galleries and jewelry stores. Not my thing, but a pleasant fifteen minute diversion. We ate at the mall’s waterfront food court -- at what surely must be the most beautifully located Subway sandwich shop in the world! Four hours after leaving Capt. Cook (we’d made lots of stops at scenic lookouts and trails) we arrived in the quaint little town of Hawi; very charming, with some extremely pricey shops. (I admired a beautiful, carved wood bowl but almost choked when I saw the $3,195 price tag!!!) Enjoyed browsing in the picturesque antique shop. Continued on to Keokea beach park and loved the views of the cliffs, and watching the surfers. I felt the prettiest scenery on the Kona side was clustered at its northern tip. Otherwise, it mostly seemed like desolate, barren lava fields.
We took the inland road back to Waimea to experience yet a completely different terrain and climate. It was only 68 degrees midday -- which felt like heaven, compared to sweltering Nashville. Much of the landscape felt otherworldly--like viewing the moon. We were treated to a beautiful sunset as we headed back toward the airport, to say farewell to Hawaii.
The trip ended up being quite different than I’d anticipated. I’d expected to be lounging around a pool or sunning on a beach—basically, relaxing. Instead, I put more than 1,000 miles on my rental cars, hiked in places that exceeded my wildest fantasies of tropical paradise, and saw some of the most breathtaking scenery on Earth. I had a GREAT time -- but now, I need a few days off to recover!
Mahalo to all of those who shared their experiences to help me plan this trip.
PS. By the way, the flights back were great. It was easy to sleep and the time “flew” by.
PPS. Link to pix to follow
Aug 29th, 2006, 05:21 PM
#2
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 25,062
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great report!! We are going to the BI in another month and we are planning to do the hike and see the lava. I keep hearing how great it is, I can't wait to see it. I'll look forward to your pics. 
Aug 30th, 2006, 06:37 AM
#5
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 21,991
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great report! We hiked the three miles to see the lava flowing into the ocean; it was amazing.
And we also put close to a 1,000 miles on our rental car. There's so much to see and do, isn't there? I was blown away by the number of different climates on the island.
Your b&b sounds wonderful!
And we also put close to a 1,000 miles on our rental car. There's so much to see and do, isn't there? I was blown away by the number of different climates on the island.
Your b&b sounds wonderful!
Aug 30th, 2006, 07:49 AM
#6
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,299
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great report! I book marked your B&B for future reference. We usually rent a house--but would love to stay there if only for a few days on future trips. And glad to hear you enjoyed Ocean Rider--I want to do the tour when we're there in November.
Aug 30th, 2006, 08:54 AM
#7
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Songdoc,
Thanks for a great trip report.
Would you happen to have the phone number or the addrss for the seahorse farm? I've never heard of it and would like to take my teens there the next time we visit BI. Also where can I find more information on Lapakahi State Park ?
Mahalo,
Thanks for a great trip report.
Would you happen to have the phone number or the addrss for the seahorse farm? I've never heard of it and would like to take my teens there the next time we visit BI. Also where can I find more information on Lapakahi State Park ?
Mahalo,
Aug 30th, 2006, 11:10 AM
#8
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,299
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
FYI for seahorses http://www.seahorse.com/
for Lapakahi State park
http://www.hawaiimuseums.org/mc/ishawaii_lapakahi.htm
for Lapakahi State park
http://www.hawaiimuseums.org/mc/ishawaii_lapakahi.htm
Sep 2nd, 2006, 12:48 PM
#9
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 4,571
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Songdoc, more mahalos for this segment of your TR. More sweet memories for me and my family ("wanna go back to... Kealakekua, Hawaii," tra la") Enjoyed your take on the lava walk, Waikoloa ("Beverly Hills") differences between HIlo and Kona sides of BI, and many more details of your experiences.
Congratulations on the safe arrival of your orchids!!
Congratulations on the safe arrival of your orchids!!
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
oliverandharry
Australia & the Pacific
16
Jan 2nd, 2007 09:47 AM
