Soaking up Wellness in Hot Springs
Jul 12th, 2023, 09:03 AM
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Soaking up Wellness in Hot Springs
Last summer, I'd planned a lovely little weekend for myself in Little Rock and Hot Springs. I was going to spend some time with a few old friends, eat some good food, visit Hot Springs National Park, do a lot of hiking, and enjoy a day on the water.
Unfortunately, that trip got largely hijacked by work pressures, and I spent most of my time feverishly working in my AirBnb. Sadness. Tears. But just before Memorial Day Weekend, I was in Little Rock for work, so I figured I'd stay in Arkansas for the holiday and see if I could resuscitate my original itinerary.
Day 1
After a full day of teaching employee classes, taking conference calls, and checking things off my to-do list on Thursday, I met up with my sweet friend Sandy for dinner that night. She picked me up at my hotel and drove me (in her fancy Tesla) to dinner at The Fold: Botanas and Bar. It was a beautiful night, so we sat on their shaded patio to nosh and talk. I started with a margarita (happy hour!), then tucked into the three taco plate - a chicken taco on special, the diablo shrimp taco, and their gringo taco (which features ground bison). We had the best time, eating, talking, laughing. Sandy, whose cancer is in remission, looks AMAZING, and she's been feeling stronger and being more active. She's still adjusting medications, etc., and probably will be for a while, but I was so heartened to see her, spend time with her, and just enjoy her company.
After dinner, Sandy had more surprises up her sleeve. She took me to another cute area of town for dessert - gourmet popsicles at Le Pops! They have a variety of flavored pops (both dairy and non-dairy), and then you can choose what to coat and dip them in. What a treat! I ordered a salted caramel pop, covered in dark chocolate and dipped in nuts. OMG. So good! We took our pops outside, found a shaded bench, and talked while we ate.
After we finished our dessert, Sandy drove me back to my hotel, where we sat in the car for even longer, talking. Sandy was a professional mentor to me for many years (and still is), but she has also been a very good friend to me. It was just so, so good to be with her.
After cleaning up a bit, I went to bed early that night.
Day 2
I'd taken Friday off, and Monday was a holiday, so four full days of fun stretched out before me! I arose, got ready, did a little packing, and then set out to find breakfast. The Capital Hotel, which had been closed for a large portion of the pandemic, has re-opened, so I swung by to enjoy an excellent breakfast in their on-property restaurant One Eleven.
After a quick walk there from my hotel, I was seated immediately and ordered their delicious avocado toast and fruit bowl, with a large cup of hot coffee. As the rising sun streamed in the window by my table, I nibbled breakfast and read my book. A perfect start to the day.
Next, I checked out of my hotel and made the 1-hour drive towards pretty Hot Springs, Arkansas. I pointed my GPS straight for Garvan Woodland Gardens to start. This place has been on my wish list for YEARS, but I'd never been able to get there! I parked in the most shaded spot in the parking lot I could find, paid my admission fee ($20 online, $22 at the gate, and worth EVERY penny), and started exploring.
The nice folks at the entrance provide you with a map, and you'll need it. This place is big! But the stops on the map are well marked, and the paths are very well maintained, so you won't likely get lost. I'd advise that you wear comfortable walking shoes, as you'll want to explore every nook and cranny (and some of the spurs off the main trails have a bit of elevation to them).
I chose to largely follow the self-guided tour on the attraction's visitors map, which took me throughout most of the gardens and helped me better understand some of the things I was looking at.
I loved, loved, loved this place. It's like something out of a story book: waterfalls, secret little pocket gardens, bubbling streams, wildflowers, well manicured formal gardens, and a children's area (and treehouse) that'll have you wishing you were a kid again!
I really enjoyed the Garden of the Pine Wind, where rushing waterfalls lead to a koi pond, and fanciful bridges crisscross over water features. Singing Springs Gorge was absolutely magical, and the views from the Perry Wildflower Overlook were amazing. (It looked like they might have been preparing to host an event there that evening. What an incredible setting!)
After I'd made my way back to the Visitors' Center area, it was nearing lunch time. As it was still fairly temperate in the shade, I stopped by the Chipmunk Cafe for a chicken Caesar salad, a lemonade, and an ice cream cone. (The Chipmunk Cafe only offers outdoor seating.)
After lunch, I had one more sight at Garvan Woodland Gardens to check off my list - the airy Anthony Chapel. You will adore this place, which is a remarkable marriage of architecture and setting. Nestled into the forest, it feels like a sacred treehouse. Slender wooden beams support huge sheets of glass, and the walls seem to almost melt away entirely, leaving you surrounded by a leafy canopy.
Built by Maurice Jennings, Anthony Chapel is one of three glass chapels in Arkansas. E. Faye Jones, who designed the other two (Thorncrown Chapel and Mildred B. Cooper Chapel) studied under Frank Lloyd Wright and has said that this design was influenced by Sainte-Chappelle in Paris. (And if you've ever been to Sainte-Chappelle, you will likely think the same thing upon entering the Arkansas glass chapels. The structures are more glass than solid, with the difference being that Sainte-Chappelle uses stained glass, while the Arkansas glass chapels are designed to let the surrounding forest serve that function. Also interesting to ponder - Sainte-Chappelle was designed to be a place of worship for royalty and their courtiers. Conversely, the Arkansas glass chapels are public spaces and were designed as such. A very American take on a European idea.)
After finishing up at Garvan Woodland Gardens, I backtracked to Hot Springs proper and checked into my snug AirBnb. Then, I headed to Bathhouse Row to explore! Along this main drag, one side of the street is operated and largely owned by the National Park Service. There are a series of historic bath houses there, and today they serve a variety of functions. Fordyce Bathhouse has been restored by the Park Service, and visitors can tour it for free! I was lucky enough to walk in right at 2 p.m., when a ranger-led tour was beginning. Our guide took us all around the first floor, explaining the rise of the bathhouses and Hot Springs as a wellness destination, the downturn of the industry, and then its restoration and resurgence. Afterwards, you could tour the second and third floors of the bathhouse (also beautifully restored) on your own. I loved this tour, and it was a wonderful introduction to both the history and the present of Hot Springs.
Two other bathhouses - the Quapaw and the Buckstaff - are still operating as bathhouses and spas today. One - the Lamar - serves as the park gift shop (where I bought some cute soaps and lotions to take home). The Hale is now a luxury hotel, and the Ozark is a cultural center. The Superior is a brewery (the only one in a U.S. National Park, and the only brewery to make its beer with thermal spring water) and restaurant. Lastly, the Maurice is vacant and in the process of being rehabilitated for future commercial use.
There are also several spots along Bathhouse Row where visitors can reach out and touch the thermal springs. There are several public (decorative) fountains along the street, and there's a drinking fountain inside the Lamar where you can fill up your water bottle. Lastly, down near The Arlington (a historic hotel/spa that has been hosting guests since 1875 and is rumored to be haunted), there's a lovely public park with a small thermal springs waterfall and pool. (The hot springs really are hot! I couldn't keep my hand in the pool for much longer than two seconds!)
The other side of the street, across from Bathhouse Row, is full of cute shops and restaurants. I spent a bit of time exploring the area, buying the odd item here or there, and enjoying the sunshine before retuning to the rental to rest and change for dinner.
That night, I had reservations at Luna Bella, a nearby Italian restaurant. Excellent. Upon arrival, I was seated immediately. I ordered a refreshing Paloma off the happy hour menu, then indulged in the Pasta Fortuna, a glorious mixture of rigatoni, chicken, mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, and cream sauce. This is an upscale restaurant, the food is excellent, the service is speedy and knowledgable, and the place was full of locals.
Full, happy, and tired, I went back to my rental and hit the hay!
More to come . . .
Unfortunately, that trip got largely hijacked by work pressures, and I spent most of my time feverishly working in my AirBnb. Sadness. Tears. But just before Memorial Day Weekend, I was in Little Rock for work, so I figured I'd stay in Arkansas for the holiday and see if I could resuscitate my original itinerary.
Day 1
After a full day of teaching employee classes, taking conference calls, and checking things off my to-do list on Thursday, I met up with my sweet friend Sandy for dinner that night. She picked me up at my hotel and drove me (in her fancy Tesla) to dinner at The Fold: Botanas and Bar. It was a beautiful night, so we sat on their shaded patio to nosh and talk. I started with a margarita (happy hour!), then tucked into the three taco plate - a chicken taco on special, the diablo shrimp taco, and their gringo taco (which features ground bison). We had the best time, eating, talking, laughing. Sandy, whose cancer is in remission, looks AMAZING, and she's been feeling stronger and being more active. She's still adjusting medications, etc., and probably will be for a while, but I was so heartened to see her, spend time with her, and just enjoy her company.
After dinner, Sandy had more surprises up her sleeve. She took me to another cute area of town for dessert - gourmet popsicles at Le Pops! They have a variety of flavored pops (both dairy and non-dairy), and then you can choose what to coat and dip them in. What a treat! I ordered a salted caramel pop, covered in dark chocolate and dipped in nuts. OMG. So good! We took our pops outside, found a shaded bench, and talked while we ate.
After we finished our dessert, Sandy drove me back to my hotel, where we sat in the car for even longer, talking. Sandy was a professional mentor to me for many years (and still is), but she has also been a very good friend to me. It was just so, so good to be with her.
After cleaning up a bit, I went to bed early that night.
Day 2
I'd taken Friday off, and Monday was a holiday, so four full days of fun stretched out before me! I arose, got ready, did a little packing, and then set out to find breakfast. The Capital Hotel, which had been closed for a large portion of the pandemic, has re-opened, so I swung by to enjoy an excellent breakfast in their on-property restaurant One Eleven.
After a quick walk there from my hotel, I was seated immediately and ordered their delicious avocado toast and fruit bowl, with a large cup of hot coffee. As the rising sun streamed in the window by my table, I nibbled breakfast and read my book. A perfect start to the day.
Next, I checked out of my hotel and made the 1-hour drive towards pretty Hot Springs, Arkansas. I pointed my GPS straight for Garvan Woodland Gardens to start. This place has been on my wish list for YEARS, but I'd never been able to get there! I parked in the most shaded spot in the parking lot I could find, paid my admission fee ($20 online, $22 at the gate, and worth EVERY penny), and started exploring.
The nice folks at the entrance provide you with a map, and you'll need it. This place is big! But the stops on the map are well marked, and the paths are very well maintained, so you won't likely get lost. I'd advise that you wear comfortable walking shoes, as you'll want to explore every nook and cranny (and some of the spurs off the main trails have a bit of elevation to them).
I chose to largely follow the self-guided tour on the attraction's visitors map, which took me throughout most of the gardens and helped me better understand some of the things I was looking at.
I loved, loved, loved this place. It's like something out of a story book: waterfalls, secret little pocket gardens, bubbling streams, wildflowers, well manicured formal gardens, and a children's area (and treehouse) that'll have you wishing you were a kid again!
I really enjoyed the Garden of the Pine Wind, where rushing waterfalls lead to a koi pond, and fanciful bridges crisscross over water features. Singing Springs Gorge was absolutely magical, and the views from the Perry Wildflower Overlook were amazing. (It looked like they might have been preparing to host an event there that evening. What an incredible setting!)
After I'd made my way back to the Visitors' Center area, it was nearing lunch time. As it was still fairly temperate in the shade, I stopped by the Chipmunk Cafe for a chicken Caesar salad, a lemonade, and an ice cream cone. (The Chipmunk Cafe only offers outdoor seating.)
After lunch, I had one more sight at Garvan Woodland Gardens to check off my list - the airy Anthony Chapel. You will adore this place, which is a remarkable marriage of architecture and setting. Nestled into the forest, it feels like a sacred treehouse. Slender wooden beams support huge sheets of glass, and the walls seem to almost melt away entirely, leaving you surrounded by a leafy canopy.
Built by Maurice Jennings, Anthony Chapel is one of three glass chapels in Arkansas. E. Faye Jones, who designed the other two (Thorncrown Chapel and Mildred B. Cooper Chapel) studied under Frank Lloyd Wright and has said that this design was influenced by Sainte-Chappelle in Paris. (And if you've ever been to Sainte-Chappelle, you will likely think the same thing upon entering the Arkansas glass chapels. The structures are more glass than solid, with the difference being that Sainte-Chappelle uses stained glass, while the Arkansas glass chapels are designed to let the surrounding forest serve that function. Also interesting to ponder - Sainte-Chappelle was designed to be a place of worship for royalty and their courtiers. Conversely, the Arkansas glass chapels are public spaces and were designed as such. A very American take on a European idea.)
After finishing up at Garvan Woodland Gardens, I backtracked to Hot Springs proper and checked into my snug AirBnb. Then, I headed to Bathhouse Row to explore! Along this main drag, one side of the street is operated and largely owned by the National Park Service. There are a series of historic bath houses there, and today they serve a variety of functions. Fordyce Bathhouse has been restored by the Park Service, and visitors can tour it for free! I was lucky enough to walk in right at 2 p.m., when a ranger-led tour was beginning. Our guide took us all around the first floor, explaining the rise of the bathhouses and Hot Springs as a wellness destination, the downturn of the industry, and then its restoration and resurgence. Afterwards, you could tour the second and third floors of the bathhouse (also beautifully restored) on your own. I loved this tour, and it was a wonderful introduction to both the history and the present of Hot Springs.
Two other bathhouses - the Quapaw and the Buckstaff - are still operating as bathhouses and spas today. One - the Lamar - serves as the park gift shop (where I bought some cute soaps and lotions to take home). The Hale is now a luxury hotel, and the Ozark is a cultural center. The Superior is a brewery (the only one in a U.S. National Park, and the only brewery to make its beer with thermal spring water) and restaurant. Lastly, the Maurice is vacant and in the process of being rehabilitated for future commercial use.
There are also several spots along Bathhouse Row where visitors can reach out and touch the thermal springs. There are several public (decorative) fountains along the street, and there's a drinking fountain inside the Lamar where you can fill up your water bottle. Lastly, down near The Arlington (a historic hotel/spa that has been hosting guests since 1875 and is rumored to be haunted), there's a lovely public park with a small thermal springs waterfall and pool. (The hot springs really are hot! I couldn't keep my hand in the pool for much longer than two seconds!)
The other side of the street, across from Bathhouse Row, is full of cute shops and restaurants. I spent a bit of time exploring the area, buying the odd item here or there, and enjoying the sunshine before retuning to the rental to rest and change for dinner.
That night, I had reservations at Luna Bella, a nearby Italian restaurant. Excellent. Upon arrival, I was seated immediately. I ordered a refreshing Paloma off the happy hour menu, then indulged in the Pasta Fortuna, a glorious mixture of rigatoni, chicken, mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, and cream sauce. This is an upscale restaurant, the food is excellent, the service is speedy and knowledgable, and the place was full of locals.
Full, happy, and tired, I went back to my rental and hit the hay!
More to come . . .
Jul 12th, 2023, 09:08 AM
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Day 3
On Saturday morning, I woke up early, put on my hiking gear, and headed to the Hot Springs Farmer's Market to see if I could rustle up some breakfast. The market is in a cute little area not too far from Bathhouse Row, and it was a beautiful morning. (I was blessed with great weather the whole time I was in Arkansas.)
When I arrived, I discovered that they didn't have much ready-to-eat food on offer (though they did have gorgeous-looking veggies, tons of homemade jams and spreads, and plenty of crafts for sale). I contented myself with buying a few items to take home (cherry jam, a bracelet, some freeze-dried fruit for the trail, etc.) before leaving to find a place where I could sit down and get a quick meal.
A very short drive away, I located the Hideaway Coffee Cafe, which turned out to be perfect. This charming little cafe has set up shop in an old house, and the whole place feels homey. I ordered the breakfast sammie with hash browns and a coffee and settled myself on the cafe's flower-filled porch to eat. The food was fresh and filling, and then I was on my way!
I wanted to get an early start, because I was hiking this morning, and I wanted to get some miles in before it got too hot! I navigated back to Hot Springs National Park, parked my car on the street (I found some convenient metered parking right on Bathhouse Row.), and started my hike on the Grand Promenade. The plan was to string several trails together to get to a hike of about four miles. From the Grand Promenade, I took the Peak Trail up, up, up, until it intersected with Hot Springs Mountain Trail (which is a loop). I basically took this route, but skipped the out-and-back to Gulpha Gorge.
It ended up being perfect! The weather was aces, the trail had lots of good elevation, and views from Goat Rock Overlook were beautiful. These trails are almost completely shaded, which kept me from overheating. (Still - bring water, wear sunscreen/a hat, and don't forget your hiking boots!)
Near the end of Hot Springs Mountain Trail, before taking the Peak Trail back down the mountain, this route takes you by the Hot Springs Mountain Tower. In addition to being a great place to re-fill your water bottle, use the restroom, or get a snack, this is a fun attraction that offers sweeping views of the area. I bought a token to go to the top, hopped on the elevator, and was treated to a panoramic view of all of Hot Springs laid out below me, with the mountains rising around it. Lovely. The attraction also has a lower-floor museum that delves into the town's history. This was a great, fun stop!
After my hike, I headed back to Bathhouse Row for an afternoon spa appointment. I'd pre-booked a reservation at Quapaw Bathhouse for a "Mountain Dream Package" - a 30-minute massage, a 30-minute facial, and a hot stone alignment ($110). A word about spa services in Hot Springs - they are plentiful, and I found them to be affordable. If you'd like to actually soak in the thermal waters, you have several options:
I checked into the bathhouse and enjoyed a frozen strawberry lemonade while I waited to be called back. They provided a robe, slippers, and changing room, and then I met up with my aesthetician. We started with a nice massage, which felt so good after the morning's hike! Then, we moved on to the hot stone alignment and the facial. After my treatments were complete, I lingered in the lounge, sipping a cup of mint tea and reading.
My rumbling stomach finally convinced me to leave. I'd had a filling breakfast, as well as some trail snacks, but it was now nearly 2 p.m., and I was hungry! I changed back into my clothes and headed to Rolando's, a "Nuevo Latino" restaurant that online reviews raved about. They seated me on their pretty shaded deck, and I ordered the Pollo Bohemios, which was filling and deliciously sauced. I washed it down with a mojito and chased it with a (very green) slice of key lime pie. Everything was delicious, and this meal hit the spot!
I went back to the rental, took a long, hot shower, and laid down for a little nap. Later that evening, I got dressed and popped back out to Crystal Ridge Distillery for a tour and a tasting. What fun! I'd noticed this place when I went to the farmer's market that morning, and it's a great little attraction! The tour is short (because this is still a pretty small operation) and free. We saw all the steps of the process, from inception to bottling and labeling.
Then, we enjoyed a tasting1 The tasting is only $10, and you get to try A LOT of spirits. It gives you a good idea of their product range, so you can better decide what you might like to purchase. (They also have an on-site bar where you can order cocktails and other mixed drinks made with Crystal Ridge spirits.) I loved their canned vodka sodas, which taste like a drink you'd make for yourself, but come pre-mixed for you in a can. I also bought a bottle of their honey lemonade moonshine. Both purchases will make for great drinks this summer!
After I finished up at the distillery, I knew I needed to get a small nibble for dinner. I wasn't very hungry, because I'd had such a late lunch. However, I needed a little snack. Google sent me to The Bourbon Bar at 501 Prime. Just what I was looking for! I had them seat me on their second-floor porch, then ordered a Moscow Mule and a phyllo-wrapped fried brie appetizer. Perfection. The night was beautiful, the drink hit just right, and the plate of food was enough but not too much. I also couldn't help but peruse the very impressive menu of this place. It looked so good that I resolved to return and eat a full dinner here.
Then, it was off to the rental and bed!
Day 4
On my last full day in Hot Springs, I again woke early and dressed for outdoor adventure. Today was lake day!
I started my morning at The Pancake Shop. I'd heard that this place was a Hot Springs institution, and now I know why. They open at 7 a.m., and I arrived shortly thereafter. I was immediately seated, and I ordered coffee, one blueberry pancake (Their pancakes are the size of a dinner plate.), a couple of strips of bacon, and a fruit bowl of blueberries and bananas.
My food arrived quickly, and the waitress gave me a pancake hack - cut a hole in the center of the pancake, and put the syrup in there. Then, the pancake "holds" the syrup for you, and you can eat the pancake from the inside out. Genius. As I ordered and ate, I saw the line forming outside - down the sidewalk. I was glad I'd arrived early!
Also as I enjoyed my breakfast, a fellow solo female traveler, seated at the table next to me, began chatting with me. She's been coming to Hot Springs for years and had all kinds of good tips! We compared notes on what we'd done so far, what we'd ordered for breakfast, and what we planned to do next. This is one of the serendipitous things about solo travel - you are open to the universe in a different way than you are when you travel with others.
I finished up my breakfast, paid my bill, and headed for my next stop - Lake Ouachita State Park! This was another place that had been on my wish list for a long time, and I was thrilled to be making a trip here! At 40,000 acres, Lake Ouachita is Arkansas' largest lake, and it's said to be one of the clearest, cleanest lakes in America. I started my adventure by parking in a shaded spot at the Visitors' Center to orient myself. The main trail out at Lake Ouachita State Park is called Caddo Bend Trail, and it's a four-mile loop.
In a word, it's fantastic. Be prepared for elevation the whole way - lots of ups and downs. And also be prepared for lots of rocks. I wouldn't have hiked this trail without my hiking boots. But the trail itself is a wonder, winding through gorgeous forests and offering amazing lake views. There are a few steep descents off the main trail where you can get right down to the lakeside, and I waved to kayakers and boaters on the water. I found tons of cool rocks with thick ribbons of quartz running through them. I saw deer. There's an observation deck that gives you a wide view of the lake, as well as a couple of sweet little bridges. The trail is extremely well marked and very well maintained, and even though it was a busy holiday weekend, I saw maybe four people on the trail the whole time. (Frankly, I heard more noise from boaters on the lake!)
When I'd finished up my hike, it was back to the Visitors' Center, where I changed into my bathing suit and cover up, re-filled my water bottle, and bought a few snacks for munching. Then, I drove to one of the park's two swimming beaches (the one near Three Sisters Springs), where I laid out my towel and headed for a swim!
The water was cold, but not nearly as cold as Barton Creek and the Colorado River, where Mel and I swam in April. I established a pattern - lie in the sun and get warm, the jump in the water to cool off. Swim a few laps, then get back out and lie in the sun until warm and dry again. Repeat. Intersperse with eating chips. (Heh.) I spent at least a couple of hours at this swimming beach, and it was a very enjoyable afternoon! (I also love eavesdropping on other people when I travel solo, and there were some FUN conversations happening at this beach!)
Right next to this location in the park, you'll also find the Three Sisters Springs, which were historically marketed as some of the healing thermal springs in the area. You can still see them, along with signage that tells you what each spring was rumored to cure, in an area next to the parking lot for this swimming beach.
Tuckered out, I drove back to my rental, where I took a shower and a quick nap.
For dinner that night, I headed back to 501 Prime, as I'd been dreaming of a steak there ever since seeing their menu the night before! Excellent, excellent. I didn't have a reservation, but I was fairly early for dinner and also a solo diner, so they seated me immediately. I ordered a glass of red wine, a steak, some garlic mash, and some asparagus. Soooooo. Goooooood. I ate it up while I read my book! Then, I got a cup of coffee and the lemon blueberry cheesecake to finish. I was veryvery full when I left, but also veryvery happy! The price point at this place is high, especially for a steak, but I can't imagine you'd regret it. Service and food were both impeccable, and surroundings are lovely. Recommended!
After dinner, I fairly rolled back to my rental and went to bed.
Then next morning was pack-drive-home, with few stops, so I could hug my sweeties again! I LOVED my first visit to Hot Springs and would absolutely recommend it to anyone. I bet it would also be a great fall destination (Lake Ouachita included).
On Saturday morning, I woke up early, put on my hiking gear, and headed to the Hot Springs Farmer's Market to see if I could rustle up some breakfast. The market is in a cute little area not too far from Bathhouse Row, and it was a beautiful morning. (I was blessed with great weather the whole time I was in Arkansas.)
When I arrived, I discovered that they didn't have much ready-to-eat food on offer (though they did have gorgeous-looking veggies, tons of homemade jams and spreads, and plenty of crafts for sale). I contented myself with buying a few items to take home (cherry jam, a bracelet, some freeze-dried fruit for the trail, etc.) before leaving to find a place where I could sit down and get a quick meal.
A very short drive away, I located the Hideaway Coffee Cafe, which turned out to be perfect. This charming little cafe has set up shop in an old house, and the whole place feels homey. I ordered the breakfast sammie with hash browns and a coffee and settled myself on the cafe's flower-filled porch to eat. The food was fresh and filling, and then I was on my way!
I wanted to get an early start, because I was hiking this morning, and I wanted to get some miles in before it got too hot! I navigated back to Hot Springs National Park, parked my car on the street (I found some convenient metered parking right on Bathhouse Row.), and started my hike on the Grand Promenade. The plan was to string several trails together to get to a hike of about four miles. From the Grand Promenade, I took the Peak Trail up, up, up, until it intersected with Hot Springs Mountain Trail (which is a loop). I basically took this route, but skipped the out-and-back to Gulpha Gorge.
It ended up being perfect! The weather was aces, the trail had lots of good elevation, and views from Goat Rock Overlook were beautiful. These trails are almost completely shaded, which kept me from overheating. (Still - bring water, wear sunscreen/a hat, and don't forget your hiking boots!)
Near the end of Hot Springs Mountain Trail, before taking the Peak Trail back down the mountain, this route takes you by the Hot Springs Mountain Tower. In addition to being a great place to re-fill your water bottle, use the restroom, or get a snack, this is a fun attraction that offers sweeping views of the area. I bought a token to go to the top, hopped on the elevator, and was treated to a panoramic view of all of Hot Springs laid out below me, with the mountains rising around it. Lovely. The attraction also has a lower-floor museum that delves into the town's history. This was a great, fun stop!
After my hike, I headed back to Bathhouse Row for an afternoon spa appointment. I'd pre-booked a reservation at Quapaw Bathhouse for a "Mountain Dream Package" - a 30-minute massage, a 30-minute facial, and a hot stone alignment ($110). A word about spa services in Hot Springs - they are plentiful, and I found them to be affordable. If you'd like to actually soak in the thermal waters, you have several options:
- Stay at a property that has access. Hotels like the Arlington and the Hale allow guests on-property (and often in-room) access to the thermal waters.
- Visit the public baths in places like Buckstaff Bathhouse or Quapaw Bathhouse. These are typically first come, first served. Bathers wear a bathing suit and water shoes, pay a small fee (something like $25), and enjoy the pools with other bathers.
- Book a private bath. This allows you to enjoy the baths in privacy for a short period of time.
I checked into the bathhouse and enjoyed a frozen strawberry lemonade while I waited to be called back. They provided a robe, slippers, and changing room, and then I met up with my aesthetician. We started with a nice massage, which felt so good after the morning's hike! Then, we moved on to the hot stone alignment and the facial. After my treatments were complete, I lingered in the lounge, sipping a cup of mint tea and reading.
My rumbling stomach finally convinced me to leave. I'd had a filling breakfast, as well as some trail snacks, but it was now nearly 2 p.m., and I was hungry! I changed back into my clothes and headed to Rolando's, a "Nuevo Latino" restaurant that online reviews raved about. They seated me on their pretty shaded deck, and I ordered the Pollo Bohemios, which was filling and deliciously sauced. I washed it down with a mojito and chased it with a (very green) slice of key lime pie. Everything was delicious, and this meal hit the spot!
I went back to the rental, took a long, hot shower, and laid down for a little nap. Later that evening, I got dressed and popped back out to Crystal Ridge Distillery for a tour and a tasting. What fun! I'd noticed this place when I went to the farmer's market that morning, and it's a great little attraction! The tour is short (because this is still a pretty small operation) and free. We saw all the steps of the process, from inception to bottling and labeling.
Then, we enjoyed a tasting1 The tasting is only $10, and you get to try A LOT of spirits. It gives you a good idea of their product range, so you can better decide what you might like to purchase. (They also have an on-site bar where you can order cocktails and other mixed drinks made with Crystal Ridge spirits.) I loved their canned vodka sodas, which taste like a drink you'd make for yourself, but come pre-mixed for you in a can. I also bought a bottle of their honey lemonade moonshine. Both purchases will make for great drinks this summer!
After I finished up at the distillery, I knew I needed to get a small nibble for dinner. I wasn't very hungry, because I'd had such a late lunch. However, I needed a little snack. Google sent me to The Bourbon Bar at 501 Prime. Just what I was looking for! I had them seat me on their second-floor porch, then ordered a Moscow Mule and a phyllo-wrapped fried brie appetizer. Perfection. The night was beautiful, the drink hit just right, and the plate of food was enough but not too much. I also couldn't help but peruse the very impressive menu of this place. It looked so good that I resolved to return and eat a full dinner here.
Then, it was off to the rental and bed!
Day 4
On my last full day in Hot Springs, I again woke early and dressed for outdoor adventure. Today was lake day!
I started my morning at The Pancake Shop. I'd heard that this place was a Hot Springs institution, and now I know why. They open at 7 a.m., and I arrived shortly thereafter. I was immediately seated, and I ordered coffee, one blueberry pancake (Their pancakes are the size of a dinner plate.), a couple of strips of bacon, and a fruit bowl of blueberries and bananas.
My food arrived quickly, and the waitress gave me a pancake hack - cut a hole in the center of the pancake, and put the syrup in there. Then, the pancake "holds" the syrup for you, and you can eat the pancake from the inside out. Genius. As I ordered and ate, I saw the line forming outside - down the sidewalk. I was glad I'd arrived early!
Also as I enjoyed my breakfast, a fellow solo female traveler, seated at the table next to me, began chatting with me. She's been coming to Hot Springs for years and had all kinds of good tips! We compared notes on what we'd done so far, what we'd ordered for breakfast, and what we planned to do next. This is one of the serendipitous things about solo travel - you are open to the universe in a different way than you are when you travel with others.
I finished up my breakfast, paid my bill, and headed for my next stop - Lake Ouachita State Park! This was another place that had been on my wish list for a long time, and I was thrilled to be making a trip here! At 40,000 acres, Lake Ouachita is Arkansas' largest lake, and it's said to be one of the clearest, cleanest lakes in America. I started my adventure by parking in a shaded spot at the Visitors' Center to orient myself. The main trail out at Lake Ouachita State Park is called Caddo Bend Trail, and it's a four-mile loop.
In a word, it's fantastic. Be prepared for elevation the whole way - lots of ups and downs. And also be prepared for lots of rocks. I wouldn't have hiked this trail without my hiking boots. But the trail itself is a wonder, winding through gorgeous forests and offering amazing lake views. There are a few steep descents off the main trail where you can get right down to the lakeside, and I waved to kayakers and boaters on the water. I found tons of cool rocks with thick ribbons of quartz running through them. I saw deer. There's an observation deck that gives you a wide view of the lake, as well as a couple of sweet little bridges. The trail is extremely well marked and very well maintained, and even though it was a busy holiday weekend, I saw maybe four people on the trail the whole time. (Frankly, I heard more noise from boaters on the lake!)
When I'd finished up my hike, it was back to the Visitors' Center, where I changed into my bathing suit and cover up, re-filled my water bottle, and bought a few snacks for munching. Then, I drove to one of the park's two swimming beaches (the one near Three Sisters Springs), where I laid out my towel and headed for a swim!
The water was cold, but not nearly as cold as Barton Creek and the Colorado River, where Mel and I swam in April. I established a pattern - lie in the sun and get warm, the jump in the water to cool off. Swim a few laps, then get back out and lie in the sun until warm and dry again. Repeat. Intersperse with eating chips. (Heh.) I spent at least a couple of hours at this swimming beach, and it was a very enjoyable afternoon! (I also love eavesdropping on other people when I travel solo, and there were some FUN conversations happening at this beach!)
Right next to this location in the park, you'll also find the Three Sisters Springs, which were historically marketed as some of the healing thermal springs in the area. You can still see them, along with signage that tells you what each spring was rumored to cure, in an area next to the parking lot for this swimming beach.
Tuckered out, I drove back to my rental, where I took a shower and a quick nap.
For dinner that night, I headed back to 501 Prime, as I'd been dreaming of a steak there ever since seeing their menu the night before! Excellent, excellent. I didn't have a reservation, but I was fairly early for dinner and also a solo diner, so they seated me immediately. I ordered a glass of red wine, a steak, some garlic mash, and some asparagus. Soooooo. Goooooood. I ate it up while I read my book! Then, I got a cup of coffee and the lemon blueberry cheesecake to finish. I was veryvery full when I left, but also veryvery happy! The price point at this place is high, especially for a steak, but I can't imagine you'd regret it. Service and food were both impeccable, and surroundings are lovely. Recommended!
After dinner, I fairly rolled back to my rental and went to bed.
Then next morning was pack-drive-home, with few stops, so I could hug my sweeties again! I LOVED my first visit to Hot Springs and would absolutely recommend it to anyone. I bet it would also be a great fall destination (Lake Ouachita included).
Jul 14th, 2023, 03:03 AM
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Arkansas is SO underrated. They have great hiking, great paddling, great food, and great art. I happened to be in the Bentonville area a year or two ago and got to visit Crystal Bridges Museum, which is nestled in the forest and completely world class. Such a delightful surprise to find it there.
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