Savannah, Georgia
#1
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Savannah, Georgia
Hello,
I'm considering taking our family to Savannah for a vacation. I was born there and lived there until I was two. My mother is always talking about what a wonderful place it was, beautiful homes, close to Hilton Head Island, etc. I've seen a couple of travel shows on Savannah lately, and it has peeked my interest. I would appreciate any input from someone who has been as to whether or not they enjoyed it. We are a family of four from Fort Worth. We love the beach, museums, historical sights, shopping, casual dining, etc. Thanks for any comments.
Dorrene
I'm considering taking our family to Savannah for a vacation. I was born there and lived there until I was two. My mother is always talking about what a wonderful place it was, beautiful homes, close to Hilton Head Island, etc. I've seen a couple of travel shows on Savannah lately, and it has peeked my interest. I would appreciate any input from someone who has been as to whether or not they enjoyed it. We are a family of four from Fort Worth. We love the beach, museums, historical sights, shopping, casual dining, etc. Thanks for any comments.
Dorrene
#2
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Dorrene: a couple of years ago my mother and I went to Savannah and Charleston and both loved everything about the trip (except maybe the heat/humidity combo). I've also been to Hilton Head recently and would not really recommend it if it means taking time away from Savannah. As for things to do in Savannah, I would recommend reading John Berendt's book Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil if you haven't already. That will get the ball rolling. We didn't actually go on a Midnight tour while there, but did appreciate knowing what went on in different buildings we saw.
Just walking around was a treat. It's easy to get oriented and although there are some dodgy blocks for the most part it's beautiful, with all the squares. We went to every house tour we could squeeze in. The mansions are lovely, and the guides are amusing and informative. We also loved the Bonaventure Cemetery. It's easy to get to by bus. The waterfront is very pretty, too.
And the food in Savannah was wonderful. I especially recommend getting reservations to Elizabeth on 37th. An amazing meal. Also excellent were 45 South and the Old Pink House. I would have loved to have tried some less fancy places particularly Mrs. Wilkes but my mother had other ideas. As for lodging, we had a wonderful time at the Ballastone Inn, much more wonderful when we asked to change rooms (we were originally put in a basement one) about which they were most obliging.
Hope you have a wonderful trip!
Just walking around was a treat. It's easy to get oriented and although there are some dodgy blocks for the most part it's beautiful, with all the squares. We went to every house tour we could squeeze in. The mansions are lovely, and the guides are amusing and informative. We also loved the Bonaventure Cemetery. It's easy to get to by bus. The waterfront is very pretty, too.
And the food in Savannah was wonderful. I especially recommend getting reservations to Elizabeth on 37th. An amazing meal. Also excellent were 45 South and the Old Pink House. I would have loved to have tried some less fancy places particularly Mrs. Wilkes but my mother had other ideas. As for lodging, we had a wonderful time at the Ballastone Inn, much more wonderful when we asked to change rooms (we were originally put in a basement one) about which they were most obliging.
Hope you have a wonderful trip!
#3
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No need to travel all the way to Hilton Head for a good beach. Tybee Island, the closest beach to Savannah, is only a 20 minute drive to the Historic District. Tybee's beaches are some of the best on the East Coast (very wide), and it's much less built up than Hilton Head. And there's even a historic fort and lighthouse on the island.
I would recommend staying on Tybee and making day trips into the city. It'd be hard to imagine your family not having a wonderful time. My wife and I go every year.
I would recommend staying on Tybee and making day trips into the city. It'd be hard to imagine your family not having a wonderful time. My wife and I go every year.
#4
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No need to travel all the way to Hilton Head for a good beach. Tybee Island, the closest beach to Savannah, is only a 20 minute drive to the Historic District. Tybee's beaches are some of the best on the East Coast (very wide), and it's much less built up than Hilton Head. And there's even a historic fort and lighthouse on the island.
I would recommend staying on Tybee and making day trips into the city. It'd be hard to imagine your family not having a wonderful time. My wife and I go every year.
I would recommend staying on Tybee and making day trips into the city. It'd be hard to imagine your family not having a wonderful time. My wife and I go every year.
#5
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Hi Dorrene, We moved from Plano to Savannah in 91, and lived there until 3 years ago when we were transferred again. Although we did(and still do) miss TX, we LOVED living in Savannah--so much so we'll probably return when we retire in a few years--it's that or the Hill Country...torn between the two!
Although one of the replies suggests staying on Tybee, I would not recommend that. Aside from the beach and 2 fun restaurants, most of the things you will want to do are downtown Savannah. It's only a 20 minute drive from downtown to the beach and IMHO, far better to stay in the city and drive out to the beach when you want to see or do that. (and I'm a seriously addicted beach person too) Now I understand the need to get to the beach when you live in landlocked North Texas, and if you do have the hour to drive to Hilton Head, there are a couple of good public beaches (Folly Field Road public beach was our fav) over there and Harbourtown is worth a look around..there are some interesting shops and tour boats leave from docks there. Though there's a lot of traffic congestion in HH, we preferred their beaches to Tybee. Tybee strikes a lot of people as being sort of..."down at the heels"..be forewarned. It's dearly loved by the families of Savannah though and many of the very wealthy "intowners" have the most unassuming cottages out there!
I would start my tour of Savannah by taking one of the trolley/minibus tours where you'll get all the history of the city, and get a good feel for the layout as well. There are varying length tours, and many will include one or more house tours in the cost. Some also take in the more distant sights of Bonaventure Cemetery and/or Bluff Drive area which is simply beautiful but very difficult to find on your own. (Bluff Drive is) As many times as I did that route when we had folks visiting us, I still needed a map to get in and out!
After your driving tour you'll have a good feel for the layout of the city. The historic district is safe but bounded by areas that aren't so good. It's bounded roughly by Montgomery St on the west and Broad on the east...you will sense when you are leaving the good areas--go with your instincts. It is bounded by the river on the north which is fine, and I would not go further south than Park on foot. That is the end of the restored downtown area anyway. In truth...I would not recommend walking much at night unless on River St where there are plenty of crowds, or City Market. Nighttime as not the time to view the little side streets.
It is a great walking city and that is the best way to get a good feel for it. One of the prettiest walks and my running route (we lived downtown) ran from City Hall on Bay St. down Bull St to Forsyth Park. This route takes you through some of the prettiest of the squares. (26 squares have survived intact from the initial layout of the city in 1733). The first two or 3 squares are commercial squares, then you get into the residential squares, lined with some beautiful homes. Side streets from around Perry on down are also beautiful...and one of my favorites was Jones St...also the home of Mrs. Wilkes restaurant which someone else mentioned but didn't get to...More on that later. That walk ends in Forsyth Park, a several acre park whose centerpiece is its fantastic 3 tiered fountain.
You'll pass through Chippewa Square on this route. It was used for all the "bench/bus stop" scenes in Forest Gump if it seems vaguely familiar to you. People spend a lot of time searching for the bench. It's not there...only in the movie but it's location had been the north side of that square.
Monterey Square is along this route as well, and contains the house made famous by Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil ( red brick victorian on sw side of the square) and as that poster said, you really should read the book before going as you'll surely hear all about it after getting there!
John Berendt, the author, truly fell in love with the city and often comes to visit still.
You'll also want to walk along River St. The cobblestones there and on the ramps had been used as ballast in the ships coming over. The river traffic is fascinating in itself. You'll see huge cargo ships many stories high passing back and forth between the port which is just upriver from the city, and Atlantic, 17 miles downriver. There are lots of shops here, but too many sort of T-shirt tacky
House tours: Juliette Gordon Low house, Davenport House, Green Meldrim, and Owens-Thomas are some of our favorites. All good and each tour fascinating.
Restaurants: Both Mrs. Wilkes and the Lady & Sons (City Market) have great downhome southern cooking. Mrs. Wilkes is an institution not to be missed. It's open only Monday thru Friday and for breakfast and lunch only. No reservations are accepted and you'll have to wait in line. Talk with the people you stand in line with. Hopefully you'll like them, as you are going to end up eating with them--seating is family style at large tables. The menu is fixed, and served family style as well...big bowls and platters passed from diner to diner. You even get to carry your plates out to the kitchen when the meal is over!
This maybe the only meal you'll need that day. It's huge and deliciously decadently southern. Just push the word calorie out of your mind for this one fantastic meal. Elizabeth's on 37th and 45 South are considered about the finest dining in town, both dressier and more expensive. Elizabeth's is in an old mansion--do take a cab. Though it's a award winning restaurant, it's not in an area you want to walk in! Pink House is also good, also dressier and located downtown. Also very good and less formal are Garribaldi's, the Bistro, and Sapphire Grill, all in City Market area of downtown. Good too, Il Pasticcio (Italian) on Bull St. Our favorite for seafood is a ways out of town, the Crab Shack off Hwy 80 on the way to Tybee, located on Estill Hammock Rd. It's harder to find, really is a shack, but has great seafood and NOT all fried (sometimes hard to find in this area) fun atmosphere, and very friendly service. Don't be put off by the exterior...it's a fun place with a sort of Key West ambience. If you are just in the mood for a burger, try the Crystal Beer Parlor over in the vicintiy of the civic Center.
Also not to be missed history-wise is Ft. Pulaski out toward Tybee. It dates to the early 1800's, is surrounded by a moat and can be toured inside and out via self-guided tour. If you walk along the outer bank of the moat on the south east side of the fort, you can still see the cannonballs embedded in its walls from the shelling it took from Union forces on Tybee.
Depending on the ages of your children, you might want to try a B&B and the Ballastone mentioned previously is great. Also nice and in a convenient location on Chippewa Sq is the Folley House. Some B&Bs will not allow children under a certain age. My husband was GM of the Hyatt Regency there...the hotel is on the river side of Bay St. Also on the river side of Bay is the Marriott...the two hotels anchor the approximate east and west sides of the district. Both have riverview rooms where that boat traffic alone will entertain you for hours! If you stay in either of these hotels, I would request the river view rooms. Also just opened is the Westin Hotel located across the river from downtown Savannah, on Hutchison Island. The plan is to have boat taxis to carry guests back and forth, but I don't know if that is up and running yet. Check, as otherwise it's quite a hike over the Greater Savannah Bridge!!! ;> (Not do-able on foot). There are also Days Inns and one very nice Holiday Inn called not Holiday Inn, but the Mulberry--very un-Holiday innish.
The MOST beautiful time to visit is about the 3rd week in March when the azaleas are at their peak. It's a spectacularly beautiful sight. The weather is pretty nice then...much the same as Ft Worth that time of year but without the big risk of a Blue Norther!
Hope this has helped. Sorry for the length. I do love this city and a request for suggestions brings forth volumes!
gt; If I can be of further help, I'll be glad to try.
C. McDaniel...Tampa,
Although one of the replies suggests staying on Tybee, I would not recommend that. Aside from the beach and 2 fun restaurants, most of the things you will want to do are downtown Savannah. It's only a 20 minute drive from downtown to the beach and IMHO, far better to stay in the city and drive out to the beach when you want to see or do that. (and I'm a seriously addicted beach person too) Now I understand the need to get to the beach when you live in landlocked North Texas, and if you do have the hour to drive to Hilton Head, there are a couple of good public beaches (Folly Field Road public beach was our fav) over there and Harbourtown is worth a look around..there are some interesting shops and tour boats leave from docks there. Though there's a lot of traffic congestion in HH, we preferred their beaches to Tybee. Tybee strikes a lot of people as being sort of..."down at the heels"..be forewarned. It's dearly loved by the families of Savannah though and many of the very wealthy "intowners" have the most unassuming cottages out there!
I would start my tour of Savannah by taking one of the trolley/minibus tours where you'll get all the history of the city, and get a good feel for the layout as well. There are varying length tours, and many will include one or more house tours in the cost. Some also take in the more distant sights of Bonaventure Cemetery and/or Bluff Drive area which is simply beautiful but very difficult to find on your own. (Bluff Drive is) As many times as I did that route when we had folks visiting us, I still needed a map to get in and out!
After your driving tour you'll have a good feel for the layout of the city. The historic district is safe but bounded by areas that aren't so good. It's bounded roughly by Montgomery St on the west and Broad on the east...you will sense when you are leaving the good areas--go with your instincts. It is bounded by the river on the north which is fine, and I would not go further south than Park on foot. That is the end of the restored downtown area anyway. In truth...I would not recommend walking much at night unless on River St where there are plenty of crowds, or City Market. Nighttime as not the time to view the little side streets.
It is a great walking city and that is the best way to get a good feel for it. One of the prettiest walks and my running route (we lived downtown) ran from City Hall on Bay St. down Bull St to Forsyth Park. This route takes you through some of the prettiest of the squares. (26 squares have survived intact from the initial layout of the city in 1733). The first two or 3 squares are commercial squares, then you get into the residential squares, lined with some beautiful homes. Side streets from around Perry on down are also beautiful...and one of my favorites was Jones St...also the home of Mrs. Wilkes restaurant which someone else mentioned but didn't get to...More on that later. That walk ends in Forsyth Park, a several acre park whose centerpiece is its fantastic 3 tiered fountain.
You'll pass through Chippewa Square on this route. It was used for all the "bench/bus stop" scenes in Forest Gump if it seems vaguely familiar to you. People spend a lot of time searching for the bench. It's not there...only in the movie but it's location had been the north side of that square.
Monterey Square is along this route as well, and contains the house made famous by Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil ( red brick victorian on sw side of the square) and as that poster said, you really should read the book before going as you'll surely hear all about it after getting there!
John Berendt, the author, truly fell in love with the city and often comes to visit still. You'll also want to walk along River St. The cobblestones there and on the ramps had been used as ballast in the ships coming over. The river traffic is fascinating in itself. You'll see huge cargo ships many stories high passing back and forth between the port which is just upriver from the city, and Atlantic, 17 miles downriver. There are lots of shops here, but too many sort of T-shirt tacky
House tours: Juliette Gordon Low house, Davenport House, Green Meldrim, and Owens-Thomas are some of our favorites. All good and each tour fascinating.
Restaurants: Both Mrs. Wilkes and the Lady & Sons (City Market) have great downhome southern cooking. Mrs. Wilkes is an institution not to be missed. It's open only Monday thru Friday and for breakfast and lunch only. No reservations are accepted and you'll have to wait in line. Talk with the people you stand in line with. Hopefully you'll like them, as you are going to end up eating with them--seating is family style at large tables. The menu is fixed, and served family style as well...big bowls and platters passed from diner to diner. You even get to carry your plates out to the kitchen when the meal is over!
This maybe the only meal you'll need that day. It's huge and deliciously decadently southern. Just push the word calorie out of your mind for this one fantastic meal. Elizabeth's on 37th and 45 South are considered about the finest dining in town, both dressier and more expensive. Elizabeth's is in an old mansion--do take a cab. Though it's a award winning restaurant, it's not in an area you want to walk in! Pink House is also good, also dressier and located downtown. Also very good and less formal are Garribaldi's, the Bistro, and Sapphire Grill, all in City Market area of downtown. Good too, Il Pasticcio (Italian) on Bull St. Our favorite for seafood is a ways out of town, the Crab Shack off Hwy 80 on the way to Tybee, located on Estill Hammock Rd. It's harder to find, really is a shack, but has great seafood and NOT all fried (sometimes hard to find in this area) fun atmosphere, and very friendly service. Don't be put off by the exterior...it's a fun place with a sort of Key West ambience. If you are just in the mood for a burger, try the Crystal Beer Parlor over in the vicintiy of the civic Center. Also not to be missed history-wise is Ft. Pulaski out toward Tybee. It dates to the early 1800's, is surrounded by a moat and can be toured inside and out via self-guided tour. If you walk along the outer bank of the moat on the south east side of the fort, you can still see the cannonballs embedded in its walls from the shelling it took from Union forces on Tybee.
Depending on the ages of your children, you might want to try a B&B and the Ballastone mentioned previously is great. Also nice and in a convenient location on Chippewa Sq is the Folley House. Some B&Bs will not allow children under a certain age. My husband was GM of the Hyatt Regency there...the hotel is on the river side of Bay St. Also on the river side of Bay is the Marriott...the two hotels anchor the approximate east and west sides of the district. Both have riverview rooms where that boat traffic alone will entertain you for hours! If you stay in either of these hotels, I would request the river view rooms. Also just opened is the Westin Hotel located across the river from downtown Savannah, on Hutchison Island. The plan is to have boat taxis to carry guests back and forth, but I don't know if that is up and running yet. Check, as otherwise it's quite a hike over the Greater Savannah Bridge!!! ;> (Not do-able on foot). There are also Days Inns and one very nice Holiday Inn called not Holiday Inn, but the Mulberry--very un-Holiday innish.
The MOST beautiful time to visit is about the 3rd week in March when the azaleas are at their peak. It's a spectacularly beautiful sight. The weather is pretty nice then...much the same as Ft Worth that time of year but without the big risk of a Blue Norther!
Hope this has helped. Sorry for the length. I do love this city and a request for suggestions brings forth volumes!
gt; If I can be of further help, I'll be glad to try. C. McDaniel...Tampa,
#6
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You will LOVE Savannah!!
I can highly recommend the Foley House Inn on Chippewa Square. (Not Folley as mentioned above - probably just a typo). The rooms overlooking the square are wonderful - large, beautifully furnished, big bathrooms, our bathroom had a balcony with chairs overlooking the square.
If you want to see golf courses, go to Hilton Head, otherwise , forget it.
Beaufort, S.C. is only an hour's drive from Savannah. Beautiful historical town. Take a tour (trolley or carriage)to see the magnificent antebellum homes. Well worth a day trip from Savannah if you have time.
I'm grateful to the poster above for giving you all that good info - it saved me a lot of typing!
I can highly recommend the Foley House Inn on Chippewa Square. (Not Folley as mentioned above - probably just a typo). The rooms overlooking the square are wonderful - large, beautifully furnished, big bathrooms, our bathroom had a balcony with chairs overlooking the square.
If you want to see golf courses, go to Hilton Head, otherwise , forget it.
Beaufort, S.C. is only an hour's drive from Savannah. Beautiful historical town. Take a tour (trolley or carriage)to see the magnificent antebellum homes. Well worth a day trip from Savannah if you have time.
I'm grateful to the poster above for giving you all that good info - it saved me a lot of typing!
#7
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Thank you all so much for the wonderful information!!! I am definately going to have to look into Savannah for a trip. It sounds like perhaps a long weekend would be perfect! You guys were so kind to share your insights with me. I truly appreciate it.... Dorrene


