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Santa Fe, New Mexico - October 2006

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Santa Fe, New Mexico - October 2006

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Old Oct 10th, 2006, 11:16 AM
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Santa Fe, New Mexico - October 2006

Impressions:

How beautiful is New Mexico?! It is unlike any place we have been. This is our second trip to the area and we’re not five minutes from the airport when we begin to wonder aloud why it’s taken us so long to return. There are less than 2 million people living in the state and 121,593 square miles between them which equates to wide open spaces and vistas as far as the eye can see. Our blood pressure drops immediately as the tension that’s been building in our bodies since our last trip slowly loses it’s grip, as do the shoulders which, it seems with each passing year, inch closer and closer toward the ears. The scenery is unique and diverse and there is so much color to take in! Colors that we don't see in south Texas. Adobe red walls, golden leaves and mustard yellow plants. Some of the land resembles that which I’ve seen used for train displays, tan land sprinkled with green shrubs. The pictures we take could never do justice to the beauty of the area but they are wonderful reminders of the sights, sounds and smells we experienced. It truly is an inspiring place to be and I understand why so many artists are drawn there and feel inspired to express the beauty through their craft.

Our first trip to Santa Fe was in 1999. During that trip we visited Los Alamos, Bandelier, Pecos National Historical Park, Taos, the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge and just about every museum, church and chapel within the Santa Fe city limits. This trip was a little different.

Purpose:

The meeting that brought DH here seven years ago is the reason for our return. Unfortunately, DH did not have as much free time during this trip as he did before so we had to forgo plans to see the Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks. Next time, hopefully. www.recreation.gov/detail.cfm?ID=3118

Air:

We flew Southwest Airlines from San Antonio to Albuquerque via El Paso. In August I purchased my ticket for $354.20. It is my hope to have the “please charge me full price” tattoo removed from my forehead one day soon. ;-)

Ground Transportation:

DH received a government weekly rate of $94.00 for a compact size car which sounds remarkable but truly was deceiving because the rate excluded taxes and fees. Total cost for our nifty Thrifty rental car, a cobalt blue PT Cruiser (cute!) came to $229.30.

Getting There:

From Albuquerque to Santa Fe we followed the Turquoise Trail which was named for the turquoise deposits found in the area many moons ago, www.turquoisetrail.org/ . This route winds through the old ghost towns of Golden, Madrid (so this is where the ‘70s has been hiding!), and Cerrillos but our first stop takes us to Sandia Peak, www.sandiapeak.com/ . As beautiful as the drive up the mountain is it pales in comparison with the views from the top where, on a clear day, you can see the city of Albuquerque and its environs far below as well as jutting rock formations that make up the mountain.

We lingered awhile in the cold and wind before proceeding down the mountain but not before delving our hands into the gift shops many charms. And I mean that literally. There are hundreds and hundreds of sterling silver charms in baskets on the counter containing 500 different shapes. What started off as a friendly scan turned into a full blown quest for ice skates and violins. After spending way too much time on this project we said goodbye to the friendly staff and continued on our way to Santa Fe passing through Golden, where we were excited to see the stone foundations of long abandoned buildings; Madrid, a very small colony of artists galleries; and Cerrillos. There was very little traffic to speak of along the trail. We were able to relax, put down the windows and sing along to the radio snapping pictures as we drove through the rolling, rocky terrain. In six days we’ll return to Albuquerque via I-25 which, to us, is equally beautiful but with a different point of view.

Hotel:

El Dorado 309 W. San Francisco Street
www.eldoradohotel.com/

DH paid a conference rate of $239/night plus 14.31% tax. In room internet access cost an additional $9.95 for each 24 hour period. The hotel recently completed an extensive renovation of all guest rooms. We had a king bed room with a large window that overlooked the plaza. Our room was large enough to include a sofa, table and chair as well as a work desk and some really terrific lamps that were, unfortunately, too large for my carry-on bag, otherwise….. We shared a large closet with safe box as well as a nice sized bathroom though it did look as though the renovation project did not include replacement of the tub or tile floor, both of which stand in contrast to what is new and improved. Our tub / shower was surrounded in marble with shiny new fixtures but the tub appeared old, tired and chipped, as was the floor. The shower head was installed surprisingly low and left me wondering how anyone 5’10” or above will clean themselves from the neck up. Otherwise, the room was very comfortable, quiet and clean. The bed was one of the most comfortable we have ever slept in which is a dangerous thing when there are schedules to maintain…an eject button installed on the night table might be a good idea. We like the hotel and its location though twice I heard it referred to as the most hated building in Santa Fe which I believe has to do with its size? Architecturally speaking, it blends in.

Restaurants:

We had functions scheduled every evening, which is unusual, so we did not have the opportunity to dine out on our own as much as we would have liked, however, we did manage to break away on a few occasions.

Zele Coffee & Café, 201 Galisteo Street. There is a Starbucks located on San Francisco but we wanted to try something we can’t get at home and that would be Zele. They serve the best chai tea with soy I have ever had and DH loved their mocha java. Though we didn’t partake, the café also serves soup and sandwiches and has outdoor seating.

The Compound Restaurant, 653 Canyon Road. www.compoundrestaurant.com
We attended a private dinner here—the food was excellent and I loved the atmosphere! White adobe walls, flickering candles….it was peaceful and romantic with a very attentive wait staff….lovely.

The Shed, 113 ˝ East Palace Avenue. We enjoyed a yummy lunch here. The place was packed when we left around 1P with a lot of people still waiting to be seated. I enjoyed the turkey club sandwich with green chiles--who would think to do such a thing? The lovely people of New Mexico, that’s who. Mixed with mayo it was the perfect creamy combination of warm and cool.

Plaza Café, 54 Lincoln Avenue. This place appeared to always be packed. We were craving our jeans and burgers the night we decided to skip an evening function to eat here. Chose wisely, we did. This place has a lot of charm and looks like a diner inside. DH went for the burger which came with what looked to be a small container of kimchi but the flavors said otherwise—it was a very flavorful and spicy cup of vegetables. One of the specials that evening sounded so good I opted for it instead of a burger—pulled beef taquitos served with guacamole, lettuce and tomato with posole on the side. My plate of food was enormous and both DH and the waiter snickered at the prospect of me finishing my dinner. Never underestimate the power of a hungry woman.

Rancho de Chimayo, Santa Fe County Road 98 along the scenic road to Taos. www.ranchodechimayo.com Established in 1965, this restaurant serves New Mexican cuisine in a century old adobe home. If you have a few minutes I highly recommend walking up the hill behind the house for some incredible views of the surrounding mountains. There is a man-made, concrete gulley filled with running water on the hill that surrounds the back of the house. This is the irrigation system used for the apple orchard below.

Activities:

With the exception of one day, the weather was SO beautiful the thought of spending time indoors did not appeal to me at all so although I had it in my head to revisit many of the cities wonderful museums the great outdoors won out with a few exceptions.

Turquoise Trail: See above.

The plant and leaf color this time of year is incredible though I suspect we just missed peak season? There is a beautiful plant that resembles sage everywhere we go that I enjoy gazing at. It is shrub like, low to the ground with prolific mounds of yellow blooms and a sage green / gray base. Beautiful. And the Aspens! In the sunlight, it’s as though they’ve been plugged in, the color is electric.

Santa Fe School of Cooking, 116 West San Francisco Street. www.santafeschoolofcooking.com/ I really had no idea what to expect when I signed up for the three hour class, Traditional New Mexican I, at a cost of $62. It seemed like a fun, different thing to do. This class is not hands-on. Instead, it involves lecture and demonstration followed by a feeding. Dynamic chef Carmen Rodriguez, whose extensive resume became too long for me to remember, told us stories and recounted useful bits of information as he and his sous-chef chopped, cooked and stirred. He was very entertaining and informative. For lunch, we got to eat everything he made which turned out to be some of the best food I enjoyed during my stay. In the end, I really enjoyed this class and it is something I would consider doing again.

Though I’m not a big fan of bread pudding, Carmen’s recipe for Capirotada, Mexican Bread Pudding, was to die for! If I close my eyes and dream really big I can still taste it.

Capirotada

10 oz day-old French bread, torn into bite sized pieces
˝ cup raisins or other dried fruit
˝ cup Madeira or other sweet wine
2 cups sugar
3 ˝ cups water
2 cups cream
1 tsp. canela (Mexican cinnamon, very fragrant!)
1 ˝ tsp Mexican vanilla or vanilla paste
2 oz ( ˝ cup) toasted pinon nuts or pecans
1 cup shredded Monterey Jack or Longhorn Cheddar cheese
Whipped cream or vanilla ice cream

1. Preheat the oven to 350. Butter a 9x12 baking dish or pan. Place the bread in the prepared dish and toast in the oven for 20 minutes or until lightly browned. Soak the raisins in Madeira for 20 minutes and drain, reserving the Madeira.

2. Place the sugar n a heavy saucepan or a large skillet over medium-high heat. When the sugar starts to melt and turn golden around the edges, mash it gently with a large spoon. Stirring will create more lumps and the sugar will take longer to caramelize so the mashing motion is more effective. Cook the sugar until it turns a deep caramel color. Immediately add the water, being very careful as the hot syrup will bubble and splatter. The caramel will partially solidify, but will re-liquefy as it reheats. Reduce the heat and add the butter, canela and vanilla to the caramel syrup, stirring until the butter has melted.

3. Top the toasted bread with nuts and raisins, pouring the reserved Madeira over the mixture. Pour the syrup over the bread and allow it to sit for five minutes. Sprinkle the top with grated cheese and additional canela to taste and bake for about 25 minutes, until lightly browned and bubbly. Serve warm with a dollop of whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.
Serves 10 to 12

For an additional charge, a local wine was served during lunch that I thought was outstanding. A 2004 Meritage from the Casa Rondena Winery, www.casarondena.com/ . Also, during the week, I enjoyed a local white wine by Grute but am unable to find additional information on it.

The Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi, www.archdiocesesantafe.org/ . This church has been rebuilt five times and contains one of the most beautiful stain glass rose windows I have seen. The congregation was established in 1610; the first church was built in 1610; and the church that stands today was built in 1886 and contains, in the La Conquistadora Chapel, a statue of the Blessed Virgin Mary brought to Santa Fe in 1626 by Franciscan priest, Fray Alonso Benavides.

Chimayo, chimayo.org/ My main reason for wanting to visit Chimayo was to see and experience El Santuario de Nuestro Senor de Esquipulas, a.k.a., El Santuario de Chimayo. Constructed in 1814, people have been drawn to this church for its power to heal. An annual pilgrimage to the church takes place each year on Good Friday with people arriving on foot from as far away as Albuquerque. Left behind, as testimony to the healing, are crutches, canes, and shoes as well as pictures, prayers and stories. It was for me a very moving, warm, and uplifting experience.

The village in which the church resides is small and charming and contains a few shops, a restaurant or two as well as another small chapel. The surrounding area is a sight to behold with a small creek running behind church grounds, surrounded by a pasture of grazing horses near the base of a mountain which serves as a backdrop to this quiet community.

Not far from the village of Chimayo is another treat, the Centinela Traditional Arts Rio Grande Textiles home to Irvin and Lisa Trujillo as well as other local weavers. We were fortunate to find Irvin at the shop; his wife was in Venezuela representing the United States at an international weavers meeting at which she was also being honored for her work. Irvin and Lisa are well known weavers who in addition to having pieces in the Smithsonian were commissioned a few years ago by Ralph Lauren. Irvin, after explaining that his wife usually tends to the public side of the business, showed us their enormous looms which he said take up to a full day to thread just one. Most everything here is done by hand including the dyeing which Irvin said he likes to do himself. His work is full of rich color and images; I would have loved to walk out of there with one of his pieces but at a cost of $11K +- I would have had a lot of explaining to do and I wasn’t feeling all that creative. Irvin was kind, patient and humble and it was a privilege for me to step inside his world.

chimayoweavers.com/Mercha...ry_Code=IT

Museum Hill, 710 Camino Lejo

Museum Hill is a compound of museums that includes the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture; Museum of International Folk Art; Museum of Spanish Colonial Art; and the Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian.

Museum of Fine Arts, 107 W. Palace Avenue www.mfasantafe.org/

Current exhibits include Georgia O’Keeffe’s Legacy in New Mexico which runs Feb. 17, 2006 thru Sept. 9, 2007 and Collecting Modernism: European Modernism from the Munson Williams-Proctor Art Museum, Sept. 29, 2006 thru Jan. 7, 2007.

Santa Fe Ski Area, http://www.skisantafe.com/index.php/...enic_chairlift
Prior to our trip, I read on-line that the chair lift at the Santa Fe Ski Area would run during the weekend we are here but unfortunately, perhaps due to bad weather Saturday morning, it did not. Had the lift been running, a round trip ride cost $8; $6, one-way. Instead, we hiked up the mountain but not all the way as the mountain and ski area is much larger than we anticipated and we're not feeling all that ambitious. Before heading up the mountain we had lunch at the ski area’s café, La Casa Grill. I don’t know what secret ski concessions have to making soup but it has been my experience that theirs is always the best to be found! By the time we hiked down the mountain the sky had cleared. The clouds, fog and rain we drove through to get here are gone giving way to clear skies, a warm sun and the electric gold of the Aspens—it was a gorgeous drive down.

We enjoyed a great trip and look forward to returning one day. Hopefully, before another seven years go by! Pictures may be viewed at, tinyurl.com/logv3

Next stop: Philadelphia, PA and a short drive to Maryland to visit family.




AnnMarie_C is offline  
Old Oct 10th, 2006, 11:39 AM
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Wow! What a great trip report. Fabulous information for trip planning down the road. I'd love to try the cooking class too! What a great idea.
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Old Oct 10th, 2006, 04:27 PM
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Thank you, starrsville.
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Old Oct 11th, 2006, 06:00 AM
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Thanks for sharing your trip, AnnMarie. We, too, feel our blood pressure drop as we arrive in New Mexico. Don't know what to attribute that to but we keep going back for more. We usually drive so that we don't miss the view from Clines Corners to Santa Fe. It is sooo relaxing. (So is the drive through Las Vegas (NM)

And since you can fly SWA, download the Ding! deal so that you can take advantage of cheap cheap fares to Albuquerque when they are available, and maybe then you can remove the "Please charge me full price" tattoo! lol

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Old Oct 11th, 2006, 07:11 AM
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Wow! Great trip report for a wonderful place. I think you've set a new benchmark.
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Old Oct 11th, 2006, 08:46 AM
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Hey BeachGirl,

I should add a dong to the end of that ding, lol. ;-) Duh! Thanks for the tip!!
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Old Oct 17th, 2006, 01:49 PM
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What a terrific (and full!) trip and report AM! How did I miss this? Having spent only a half day in Santa Fe, I've got to get back. We barely scratched the surface and there is so much more exploring to be done.

It is beautiful, as are the Sandia Mtns...we did the tram...driving would have made DH much happier, come to find out. Prior to that he had no idea he had any fear of heights, unbelievably!

I wonder if the mounding grey-green shrub was santolina? Does this look like it? http://tinyurl.com/y8mf3f

MD should be beautiful this time of year. Bon Voyage...again!

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Old Oct 17th, 2006, 03:30 PM
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Hi OO!

No, that's not it but how pretty! I have since learned the plant I fell in love with called chamisa,

http://tinyurl.com/ydwqae

Chamisa and blue aster were everywhere along the roadside--really beautiful!

Also, I have sinced learned the correct spelling of the second New Mexican wine I really liked, Gruet, http://www.gruetwinery.com/
AnnMarie_C is offline  
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