Rocky Mountain High...king
Mar 25th, 2017, 01:44 PM
#1
Rocky Mountain High...king
We returned to our Colorado roots about two years ago after living outside the US for 15+ years. Since then we’ve made a concerted effort to rediscover our own backyard, thus far making numerous road trips to southern Colorado and the Western Slope.
So, we figured it was time to head up north to Estes Park.
When given the choice between speed and scenery, we’ll go for scenery every time, so we chose our route accordingly, specifically avoiding the interstate as much as possible:
Our route:
We drove Highway 67 North to Deckers where we picked up County Road 126 to Pine Junction, then joined 285 E: (here’s a time lapse video of the drive for anyone who might be interested):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dF78mcOaewY
From 285 E we joined 470 W, then I-70 W, where we detoured five miles to Idaho Springs for lunch at Beau Jo’s, known locally for their Colorado Mountain Pie (as in pizza). We couldn’t remember the last time we’d been to Idaho Springs; the town and the restaurant were both hopping, probably due to spring break and the fabulous unseasonably warm Colorado weather. The two microbreweries on the same block caught Bill’s eye (Tommyknocker and Westbound and Down) – we made a mental note to revisit soon.
We rather enjoyed our Sky Hawk 2 lb pizza (yeah I know it sounds massive, but it was just right), pepperoni, Hatch green chiles, whole milk mozzarella and feta. Next time we’ll try the Prairie Pie, less crust.
http://www.beaujos.com/pizza-locations/idaho-springs/
http://visitidahospringscolorado.com/
After lunch we backtracked to I-70, exited onto the Central City Parkway and meandered through the relatively well preserved former-mining-now-casino-town of Central City and the not-even-remotely preserved over-the-top blight on the landscape casino town of Black Hawk, with its landmark eyesore, the Ameristar Hotel. I never will understand why a town of 121 residents agreed to bring in a 536 room monstrosity. Oh yeah, money.
http://www.cityofblackhawk.org/
We eventually located 119, driving through Rollinsville and Nederland, then on to CO Highway 72 and CO Highway 7. This is a gorgeous stretch of road, also known as The Peak to Peak Scenic Byway.
http://estes-park.com/peak-peak-scenic-byway
Near Allenspark we passed the Chapel on the Rock (St Malo), which has seen better days. It’s currently closed for major renovation following a flood and mudslides in 2013.
http://campstmalo.org/
Some five hours and change since leaving home, we arrived in Estes Park.
Where we stayed (three nights):
Deer Crest Resort – this is a smoke-free adults only hotel located a few miles from Estes Park on Fall River. We’ve stayed here previously and found it much as we’d left it, clean, comfortable and incredibly quiet (only 2-3 other guests despite it being spring break). This place has a lot going for it, but they require a 50% deposit and have a rather stiff cancellation policy (and a lot of rules).
http://www.deercrestresort.com/
Where we ate and drank:
The historic Stanley Hotel - we had drinks in the Cascades Whisky Bar and Lounge, which claims to have Colorado’s largest selection of whiskeys and single malt scotches (and I believe it). We met a lovely couple visiting from Ireland here and had a great chat.
http://www.stanleyhotel.com/
Safeway: Deli and antipasto provisions, enjoyed on our hotel patio overlooking the Fall River
Antonio’s NY Pizza – I’d done my homework and found this spot in advance – great find, we shared a 14” white garlic pizza – excellent. Very small casual place, paper plates, no liquor license, cheap and cheerful. I’d imagine it’s packed during the high season.
http://estesparkpizza.com/
Notchtop Bakery & Café – another place I sussed out in advance – we had two really good fresh breakfasts here, friendly service, excellent green chile
http://www.thenotchtop.com/
Mary’s Lake Lodge – Tavern 1929 – home to 18 handcrafted microbrews and ciders, and some mighty fine onion rings. We whiled away a lovely afternoon on their balcony - soaking up the libations and the incredible views – we had the balcony completely to ourselves, evidently the other tavern guests were cold weather weenies - http://www.maryslakelodge.com/
Mountain Home Café – we had an okay breakfast here, but it was disappointing after the Notchtop Bakery and Café. Good service though.
http://mountainhomecafe.com/
Rock Inn Mountain Tavern – we had drinks and a make-shift tapas dinner here, ordering an assortment of appetizers. We enjoyed the spicy corn dip, berry brie and hummus, but the Crème Brûlée was truly awful - grainy soup with a caramelized crust. Our waiter, Vlad from Moldova, was a star. Busy local’s place with music – more of an informal jam session the night we were there, laid back and friendly.
https://www.rockinnestes.com/
What we did:
We made the mistake of watching the original 1980 version of The Shining (DVD at hotel). The Stanley Hotel inspired Stephen King to write the novel The Shining, so we thought we’d get into the spirit of things. It was like watching paint dry - two and a half hours of our lives we will never get back.
We spent two days hiking in Rocky Mountain National Park. Entry is $20 per vehicle per day or $30 for seven days. We paid for one day, and returned the next day to upgrade to the 7 day pass, but the pay booth was vacant with a sign to proceed, so there was no charge the second day.
As Coloradans, we’re all too familiar with the destruction left behind by pine beetles and mistletoe, but seeing all the dead and dying trees in RMNP still came as a shock. Sixty-five percent of the trees in the park have been affected by some 17 different species of bark beetles, made worse by warmer than usual winters and drought.
https://www.nps.gov/romo/learn/natur...background.htm
During the winter only 7.8 miles of Trail Ridge Road is open, but there’s still quite a lot to see in the park. We walked around frozen Bear Lake with a gazillion of like-minded visitors. The trail was difficult to locate due to the deep snow (55”) and once located, the path was covered in thick ice. This didn’t seem to deter our co-hikers, many of whom seemed to think sneakers were appropriate winter hiking footwear. Needless to say, there was a lot of slipping and sliding. Being older, wiser and more fragile, we wore hiking boots and winter traction cleats and had no issues.
From Bear Lake we continued walking up to Dream Lake, which was a rather anti-climatic considering the slushy uphill slog. Then we continued the climb to Emerald Lake, which was stunning and worth every huff and puff. We also walked the short easy loop around Sprague Lake as well as a short section of the Alberta Falls track, but by then we were tired of slush and ice so we turned back.
In an effort to get away from the crowds, the second day we drove Trail Ridge Road to the closure gate, where we parked and set out on foot. The road was a mixed bag of deep packed snow, ice and some completely bare sections. We put on our traction cleats, took them off, put them back on, took them off. About two miles in we had to turn back because the snow was softening and we were sinking in to our knees, which made tough walking. We both thoroughly enjoyed this walk, all the more so due to the beautiful views and lack of people.
We also walked half of the Deer Mountain Trail, but the conditions (ice and rocks) convinced us to turn back before we reached the top.
All in all we logged 12.5 miles in our two day visit to RMNP. We were blessed with beautiful weather and we’re glad we visited before the crowds descend in earnest. Although the park was quite busy, Estes Park was quiet, and it was lovely indeed.
Wildlife:
We saw elk, deer and a young bighorn sheep...all right in Estes Park! Three bull elk wandered onto the grassy area beneath our hotel balcony one night and practically posed for photos.
Photos here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/melnq8...57681732400596
A big spring storm was predicted for our day of departure. We left Estes the way we had come, bits of snow here and there but nothing major...until we pulled into our steep driveway, where our usually reliable Subaru rebelled in the eight inches of heavy wet snow that had fallen while we were away. Finally, some much needed moisture!
If you’re lucky enough to be in the mountains, you’re lucky enough.
So, we figured it was time to head up north to Estes Park.
When given the choice between speed and scenery, we’ll go for scenery every time, so we chose our route accordingly, specifically avoiding the interstate as much as possible:
Our route:
We drove Highway 67 North to Deckers where we picked up County Road 126 to Pine Junction, then joined 285 E: (here’s a time lapse video of the drive for anyone who might be interested):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dF78mcOaewY
From 285 E we joined 470 W, then I-70 W, where we detoured five miles to Idaho Springs for lunch at Beau Jo’s, known locally for their Colorado Mountain Pie (as in pizza). We couldn’t remember the last time we’d been to Idaho Springs; the town and the restaurant were both hopping, probably due to spring break and the fabulous unseasonably warm Colorado weather. The two microbreweries on the same block caught Bill’s eye (Tommyknocker and Westbound and Down) – we made a mental note to revisit soon.
We rather enjoyed our Sky Hawk 2 lb pizza (yeah I know it sounds massive, but it was just right), pepperoni, Hatch green chiles, whole milk mozzarella and feta. Next time we’ll try the Prairie Pie, less crust.
http://www.beaujos.com/pizza-locations/idaho-springs/
http://visitidahospringscolorado.com/
After lunch we backtracked to I-70, exited onto the Central City Parkway and meandered through the relatively well preserved former-mining-now-casino-town of Central City and the not-even-remotely preserved over-the-top blight on the landscape casino town of Black Hawk, with its landmark eyesore, the Ameristar Hotel. I never will understand why a town of 121 residents agreed to bring in a 536 room monstrosity. Oh yeah, money.
http://www.cityofblackhawk.org/
We eventually located 119, driving through Rollinsville and Nederland, then on to CO Highway 72 and CO Highway 7. This is a gorgeous stretch of road, also known as The Peak to Peak Scenic Byway.
http://estes-park.com/peak-peak-scenic-byway
Near Allenspark we passed the Chapel on the Rock (St Malo), which has seen better days. It’s currently closed for major renovation following a flood and mudslides in 2013.
http://campstmalo.org/
Some five hours and change since leaving home, we arrived in Estes Park.
Where we stayed (three nights):
Deer Crest Resort – this is a smoke-free adults only hotel located a few miles from Estes Park on Fall River. We’ve stayed here previously and found it much as we’d left it, clean, comfortable and incredibly quiet (only 2-3 other guests despite it being spring break). This place has a lot going for it, but they require a 50% deposit and have a rather stiff cancellation policy (and a lot of rules).
http://www.deercrestresort.com/
Where we ate and drank:
The historic Stanley Hotel - we had drinks in the Cascades Whisky Bar and Lounge, which claims to have Colorado’s largest selection of whiskeys and single malt scotches (and I believe it). We met a lovely couple visiting from Ireland here and had a great chat.
http://www.stanleyhotel.com/
Safeway: Deli and antipasto provisions, enjoyed on our hotel patio overlooking the Fall River
Antonio’s NY Pizza – I’d done my homework and found this spot in advance – great find, we shared a 14” white garlic pizza – excellent. Very small casual place, paper plates, no liquor license, cheap and cheerful. I’d imagine it’s packed during the high season.
http://estesparkpizza.com/
Notchtop Bakery & Café – another place I sussed out in advance – we had two really good fresh breakfasts here, friendly service, excellent green chile
http://www.thenotchtop.com/
Mary’s Lake Lodge – Tavern 1929 – home to 18 handcrafted microbrews and ciders, and some mighty fine onion rings. We whiled away a lovely afternoon on their balcony - soaking up the libations and the incredible views – we had the balcony completely to ourselves, evidently the other tavern guests were cold weather weenies - http://www.maryslakelodge.com/
Mountain Home Café – we had an okay breakfast here, but it was disappointing after the Notchtop Bakery and Café. Good service though.
http://mountainhomecafe.com/
Rock Inn Mountain Tavern – we had drinks and a make-shift tapas dinner here, ordering an assortment of appetizers. We enjoyed the spicy corn dip, berry brie and hummus, but the Crème Brûlée was truly awful - grainy soup with a caramelized crust. Our waiter, Vlad from Moldova, was a star. Busy local’s place with music – more of an informal jam session the night we were there, laid back and friendly.
https://www.rockinnestes.com/
What we did:
We made the mistake of watching the original 1980 version of The Shining (DVD at hotel). The Stanley Hotel inspired Stephen King to write the novel The Shining, so we thought we’d get into the spirit of things. It was like watching paint dry - two and a half hours of our lives we will never get back.
We spent two days hiking in Rocky Mountain National Park. Entry is $20 per vehicle per day or $30 for seven days. We paid for one day, and returned the next day to upgrade to the 7 day pass, but the pay booth was vacant with a sign to proceed, so there was no charge the second day.
As Coloradans, we’re all too familiar with the destruction left behind by pine beetles and mistletoe, but seeing all the dead and dying trees in RMNP still came as a shock. Sixty-five percent of the trees in the park have been affected by some 17 different species of bark beetles, made worse by warmer than usual winters and drought.
https://www.nps.gov/romo/learn/natur...background.htm
During the winter only 7.8 miles of Trail Ridge Road is open, but there’s still quite a lot to see in the park. We walked around frozen Bear Lake with a gazillion of like-minded visitors. The trail was difficult to locate due to the deep snow (55”) and once located, the path was covered in thick ice. This didn’t seem to deter our co-hikers, many of whom seemed to think sneakers were appropriate winter hiking footwear. Needless to say, there was a lot of slipping and sliding. Being older, wiser and more fragile, we wore hiking boots and winter traction cleats and had no issues.
From Bear Lake we continued walking up to Dream Lake, which was a rather anti-climatic considering the slushy uphill slog. Then we continued the climb to Emerald Lake, which was stunning and worth every huff and puff. We also walked the short easy loop around Sprague Lake as well as a short section of the Alberta Falls track, but by then we were tired of slush and ice so we turned back.
In an effort to get away from the crowds, the second day we drove Trail Ridge Road to the closure gate, where we parked and set out on foot. The road was a mixed bag of deep packed snow, ice and some completely bare sections. We put on our traction cleats, took them off, put them back on, took them off. About two miles in we had to turn back because the snow was softening and we were sinking in to our knees, which made tough walking. We both thoroughly enjoyed this walk, all the more so due to the beautiful views and lack of people.
We also walked half of the Deer Mountain Trail, but the conditions (ice and rocks) convinced us to turn back before we reached the top.
All in all we logged 12.5 miles in our two day visit to RMNP. We were blessed with beautiful weather and we’re glad we visited before the crowds descend in earnest. Although the park was quite busy, Estes Park was quiet, and it was lovely indeed.
Wildlife:
We saw elk, deer and a young bighorn sheep...all right in Estes Park! Three bull elk wandered onto the grassy area beneath our hotel balcony one night and practically posed for photos.
Photos here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/melnq8...57681732400596
A big spring storm was predicted for our day of departure. We left Estes the way we had come, bits of snow here and there but nothing major...until we pulled into our steep driveway, where our usually reliable Subaru rebelled in the eight inches of heavy wet snow that had fallen while we were away. Finally, some much needed moisture!
If you’re lucky enough to be in the mountains, you’re lucky enough.
Apr 10th, 2017, 02:06 PM
#5
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Hi Melnq8, nice catching up with you as you enjoy the beautiful Colorado Rockies. You're so fortunate to live there. We've hiked all those trails you mentioned, and your report makes us want to return sooner rather than later. Even though we enjoy our trips to Europe, there is so much beauty in the good ol' USA!
We'll watch for your future escapades in the Colorado Mtns.
We'll watch for your future escapades in the Colorado Mtns.
Apr 11th, 2017, 06:19 AM
#7
Thanks for sharing. You did do your homework by finding Notchtop Cafe and the Rock Inn, though I've noted the warning on the Creme Brulee. Upon reflection one might see where that wouldn't be their strong suit!
We've tried to stay at Deer Creek Resort before but we usually decide spur-of-the-moment to stay in Estes and it's been booked, will try again next time. I just booked a few nights at a lodge in Montana for this summer that has similar cancellation policy. Sometimes part of the territory I guess, but I'm OK with that.
My wife has never made it past the elevator blood scene of The Shining, so I haven't seen the movie in decades. I thought the typewriter scene was scary.
If you go back at this time of year again then some of the lower elevation trails in the park can be snow free. Sounds like you had fun and were properly equipped for a snow slog though!
Enjoyed your photos!
We've tried to stay at Deer Creek Resort before but we usually decide spur-of-the-moment to stay in Estes and it's been booked, will try again next time. I just booked a few nights at a lodge in Montana for this summer that has similar cancellation policy. Sometimes part of the territory I guess, but I'm OK with that.
My wife has never made it past the elevator blood scene of The Shining, so I haven't seen the movie in decades. I thought the typewriter scene was scary.
If you go back at this time of year again then some of the lower elevation trails in the park can be snow free. Sounds like you had fun and were properly equipped for a snow slog though!
Enjoyed your photos!
Apr 11th, 2017, 07:56 AM
#8
Thank you Nelson.
Yeah, went fully expecting snow. We tend to travel off season, so no surprises there.
The Rock Inn probably makes a mean lava cake or some such, but Creme Brulee is definitely not their forte. We live, we learn.
Yeah, went fully expecting snow. We tend to travel off season, so no surprises there.
The Rock Inn probably makes a mean lava cake or some such, but Creme Brulee is definitely not their forte. We live, we learn.
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