Port Townsend, Washington: a mini Trip Report
May 30th, 2009, 05:17 PM
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Port Townsend, Washington: a mini Trip Report
We just got back from a short but lovely trip to Port Townsend, Washington, and I thought I would post a short review of what we found.
First of all, Port Townsend is really quite close to us (Anacortes, Washington) as the crow flies; all of 25 miles. It is considerably more remote at the moment, however. The problem is that water gets in the way. First of all, there are really only two ways of getting there by road. The first is to drive all the way around Puget Sound via Olympia, Washington. That is a journey of about 240 miles, which would take almost five hours. One could drive via Tacoma in the past, but the floating bridge over the Hood Canal has been closed for months for repair. The other way is by Washington State Ferry from the town of port of Keystone on Whidbey Island. The problem with that is that the state ferries have been having problems with their boats. The bottoms have been falling out of them (literally) as they are ancient. The State has been very remiss in building new ones, and some of the routes have suffered. The Keystone/Port Townsend run is one of those. The State had to lease a small ferry to fill the gap, so one must make reservations in advance to compete for the fifty places for cars on each run.
As a result of this, getting to Port Townsend presents somewhat of an adventure, and businesses in the quaint berg have been suffering, as they rely in large part on the tourist trade. As a result, I noticed that one of my favorite hotels, the “Palace Hotel”, http://www.palacehotelpt.com/ was having a two for one sale, so I booked two nights in late May. I had stayed there before, and found the place charming. It is, after all, a lovingly restored Victorian whorehouse. The rooms are named after the ladies that used to entertain there; I booked the “Miss Kitty” room.
On Wednesday we drove down Whidbey Island on a brilliantly clear morning, through Coupville. The whole island was flushed with spring, and blooming fruit trees. We stopped briefly to look at the old gun emplacements at Fort Casey, before getting in the ferry line, and reading the papers until boarding. We were too early for the 3:00 checkin, so drove up through Fort Worden for a bit of sightseeing, and through the town to check the locations of restaurants that had been recommended.
I'll cut this short now, and write reviews of the four restaurants, and one nightclub we visited later, when I get a bit more time.
First of all, Port Townsend is really quite close to us (Anacortes, Washington) as the crow flies; all of 25 miles. It is considerably more remote at the moment, however. The problem is that water gets in the way. First of all, there are really only two ways of getting there by road. The first is to drive all the way around Puget Sound via Olympia, Washington. That is a journey of about 240 miles, which would take almost five hours. One could drive via Tacoma in the past, but the floating bridge over the Hood Canal has been closed for months for repair. The other way is by Washington State Ferry from the town of port of Keystone on Whidbey Island. The problem with that is that the state ferries have been having problems with their boats. The bottoms have been falling out of them (literally) as they are ancient. The State has been very remiss in building new ones, and some of the routes have suffered. The Keystone/Port Townsend run is one of those. The State had to lease a small ferry to fill the gap, so one must make reservations in advance to compete for the fifty places for cars on each run.
As a result of this, getting to Port Townsend presents somewhat of an adventure, and businesses in the quaint berg have been suffering, as they rely in large part on the tourist trade. As a result, I noticed that one of my favorite hotels, the “Palace Hotel”, http://www.palacehotelpt.com/ was having a two for one sale, so I booked two nights in late May. I had stayed there before, and found the place charming. It is, after all, a lovingly restored Victorian whorehouse. The rooms are named after the ladies that used to entertain there; I booked the “Miss Kitty” room.
On Wednesday we drove down Whidbey Island on a brilliantly clear morning, through Coupville. The whole island was flushed with spring, and blooming fruit trees. We stopped briefly to look at the old gun emplacements at Fort Casey, before getting in the ferry line, and reading the papers until boarding. We were too early for the 3:00 checkin, so drove up through Fort Worden for a bit of sightseeing, and through the town to check the locations of restaurants that had been recommended.
I'll cut this short now, and write reviews of the four restaurants, and one nightclub we visited later, when I get a bit more time.
May 30th, 2009, 07:29 PM
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PamSF: It's the Fountain Cafe, and yes it is still open. By the way, the Hood Canal Bridge closed on May 1st, and we are hearing that it should re-open to motor vehicle traffic by the end of this coming week.
To the OP: once the HCBridge is open, you can access the Olympic Peninsula by taking the Edmonds-Kingston ferry...there's certainly no need to drive from Anacortes all the way to Tacoma. The Keystone-PT ferry is still the quickest way, though the current reservation requirement is a real PITA.
I'm looking forward to your restaurant reviews; hope you got to my favorite, T's.
To the OP: once the HCBridge is open, you can access the Olympic Peninsula by taking the Edmonds-Kingston ferry...there's certainly no need to drive from Anacortes all the way to Tacoma. The Keystone-PT ferry is still the quickest way, though the current reservation requirement is a real PITA.
I'm looking forward to your restaurant reviews; hope you got to my favorite, T's.
May 30th, 2009, 08:13 PM
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We have always stayed at the Morgan Hill Guest Cottage, which is away from the heart of downtown, over near the park/beach.
Serendipity--Morgan Hill has a beach place that is pet friendly. We haven't stayed at that location, but have stayed at their guest cottage quite a few times and they are so easy to work with, and the owners love dogs. So there is another option for you for a future trip.
Serendipity--Morgan Hill has a beach place that is pet friendly. We haven't stayed at that location, but have stayed at their guest cottage quite a few times and they are so easy to work with, and the owners love dogs. So there is another option for you for a future trip.
May 31st, 2009, 11:15 AM
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Back to it then.
We did the usual things one does in Port Townsend; drove to the lighthouse, walked up to the fortifications/gun mounts, looked at the artillery museum at Ft. Worden, drove down to the Vintage Hardware and Lighting store – a must for those interested in restoring old houses, and walking Water Street to look at all of the galleries and gift shops. To my amazement, and delight, DW did not buy a SINGLE thing! Wow, a first! She is a glass artist, and most of our time was spent looking at the work of other glass artists. I do stuff in wood, so that was my focus. Of course, she spent some time in that huge consignment woman's clothing store, “Fancy Feathers”, while I stooged about with an ice cream cone on the street.
What most of you will probably find of more interest will be our impressions of the dining and entertainment we explored. We ate, or visited, a number of places that had been recommended to us by friends, and a couple of old haunts.
“Sirens, a Pub of Distinction” http://www.sirensbar.com/HOME.html I wandered into this watering hole on a previous visit last December, and found it to be a homey and distinctive place. It is not easy to find, even though it is right on Water Street. It is meant to be a place for locals, and I saw very few tourists in the place. As you walk down the 800 block of Water Street, look on the water side. You will see a small hanging sign that says “Upstairs”. There is another small sign that says “Sirens”, but it is not very apparent. Go up the stairs to the first landing. Since the ceilings of these old buildings are high, it is a longish climb. As you pause there to rest, you realize that you are not there yet. Take a deep breath, and tackle the second flight of stairs. At the top you will find you are still not there. You are standing in a hallway covered in gray painted shipboard, and a lot of closed doors. No, you didn't make a mistake – just wander down the hall, and you will finally see how to enter the Pub, toward the back of the building. There is a bar area with other rooms with tables leading off of it, and a small balcony so you can sit outside in good weather and look down on the harbor. The food and beer are good and reasonably priced. There are open mike nights during the week, and live music on the weekends.
Highly recommended!
“Blue Moose Cafe” I don't think they have a web site, but they are located at 311 Haines Street, a little outside the main part of town. I've been to a dive bar, but never a dive breakfast place. What a lovely surprise! This tiny restaurant is situated right on the harbor, inbetween dozens of boats that are being worked on by carpenters, electricians, and others. You have a choice of either sweet potato or regular potato home fries. Some of their omelettes also feature local seafood. Blue Moose is definitely a local secret waiting for your discovery. We ate breakfast there twice, but they are open for lunch as well. Be aware they take no credit cards, only cash or checks.
“Ts Restaurant” http://www.ts-restaurant.com/ I ran across this restaurant when I searched PT on Google. I looked up the reviews on TripAdvisor, and was rather put off by some of the reviews saying the owner had an “attitude”. I don't need attitude served a one of my courses, so I crossed it off my list. I mentioned to the clerk at the hotel, and got a much more positive response, so I made a reservation for the first night. What a DELIGHT! By far the nicest meal we have had lately. There was no “attitude” served with any of the courses. I was so impressed I asked for a menu so I could tell you what we had.
We started by sharing a Prosciuto Wrapped Prawn appetizer. “Pan seared and finished in the oven, served with a golden cream sherry sauce and garnished with organic arugula, pickled cucumbers and golden raisins.” It was one of the most delicious things I have ever bitten. The only problem was that we should have ordered two.
Tammy had “Ginger and Scallion Crusted Cape Cleare Wild King Salmon – Artichoke hearts, roasted fennel and Edamame succotash and topped with a crisp potato nest. Garnished with Pomegranate port gastrique.” I had “Grilled Wild Mushroom stuffed Pork Tenderloin – Creamy truffled herb risotto, seasonal vegetable and Black Butte Porter Demi.” The plating was superbly done, and the only sounds during the meal, other than the clink of cutlery, were soft moans of delight from us both.
I had a mixed drink to start, Tammy seldom drinks with dinner, and was going to order a class of wine or two with my dinner. The hostess, however told us of their tradition that on Mondays and Wednesdays (they are closed on Tuesday) any bottle of wine was half price. I got a nice bottle of red, drank two glasses, and the hostess put the remainder in a bag for us to take home. We regretted not being able to do desert, and the bill was a bit over $80. Most reasonable, we thought, for the quality of the food.
So to answer your question, Azzure, yes “Ts” Restaurant is alive and well in Port Townsend. You should be aware that they are about to move, however. They are currently in that rather dumpy looking place down on Washington Street. Looks like it used to be a Mexican restaurant, with the arches and all. They will soon relocate to 141 Hudson Street, which is one of those old places at the marina at the end of Water Street that they are in the process of completely remodeling. We drove down to look at it, and it will have lots of light from big windows, an outside deck, and a lovely view. If the food does not change, it will be a big hit.
The rest later. I'm feeling guilty not doing yard work on this beautiful day.
We did the usual things one does in Port Townsend; drove to the lighthouse, walked up to the fortifications/gun mounts, looked at the artillery museum at Ft. Worden, drove down to the Vintage Hardware and Lighting store – a must for those interested in restoring old houses, and walking Water Street to look at all of the galleries and gift shops. To my amazement, and delight, DW did not buy a SINGLE thing! Wow, a first! She is a glass artist, and most of our time was spent looking at the work of other glass artists. I do stuff in wood, so that was my focus. Of course, she spent some time in that huge consignment woman's clothing store, “Fancy Feathers”, while I stooged about with an ice cream cone on the street.
What most of you will probably find of more interest will be our impressions of the dining and entertainment we explored. We ate, or visited, a number of places that had been recommended to us by friends, and a couple of old haunts.
“Sirens, a Pub of Distinction” http://www.sirensbar.com/HOME.html I wandered into this watering hole on a previous visit last December, and found it to be a homey and distinctive place. It is not easy to find, even though it is right on Water Street. It is meant to be a place for locals, and I saw very few tourists in the place. As you walk down the 800 block of Water Street, look on the water side. You will see a small hanging sign that says “Upstairs”. There is another small sign that says “Sirens”, but it is not very apparent. Go up the stairs to the first landing. Since the ceilings of these old buildings are high, it is a longish climb. As you pause there to rest, you realize that you are not there yet. Take a deep breath, and tackle the second flight of stairs. At the top you will find you are still not there. You are standing in a hallway covered in gray painted shipboard, and a lot of closed doors. No, you didn't make a mistake – just wander down the hall, and you will finally see how to enter the Pub, toward the back of the building. There is a bar area with other rooms with tables leading off of it, and a small balcony so you can sit outside in good weather and look down on the harbor. The food and beer are good and reasonably priced. There are open mike nights during the week, and live music on the weekends.
Highly recommended!
“Blue Moose Cafe” I don't think they have a web site, but they are located at 311 Haines Street, a little outside the main part of town. I've been to a dive bar, but never a dive breakfast place. What a lovely surprise! This tiny restaurant is situated right on the harbor, inbetween dozens of boats that are being worked on by carpenters, electricians, and others. You have a choice of either sweet potato or regular potato home fries. Some of their omelettes also feature local seafood. Blue Moose is definitely a local secret waiting for your discovery. We ate breakfast there twice, but they are open for lunch as well. Be aware they take no credit cards, only cash or checks.
“Ts Restaurant” http://www.ts-restaurant.com/ I ran across this restaurant when I searched PT on Google. I looked up the reviews on TripAdvisor, and was rather put off by some of the reviews saying the owner had an “attitude”. I don't need attitude served a one of my courses, so I crossed it off my list. I mentioned to the clerk at the hotel, and got a much more positive response, so I made a reservation for the first night. What a DELIGHT! By far the nicest meal we have had lately. There was no “attitude” served with any of the courses. I was so impressed I asked for a menu so I could tell you what we had.
We started by sharing a Prosciuto Wrapped Prawn appetizer. “Pan seared and finished in the oven, served with a golden cream sherry sauce and garnished with organic arugula, pickled cucumbers and golden raisins.” It was one of the most delicious things I have ever bitten. The only problem was that we should have ordered two.
Tammy had “Ginger and Scallion Crusted Cape Cleare Wild King Salmon – Artichoke hearts, roasted fennel and Edamame succotash and topped with a crisp potato nest. Garnished with Pomegranate port gastrique.” I had “Grilled Wild Mushroom stuffed Pork Tenderloin – Creamy truffled herb risotto, seasonal vegetable and Black Butte Porter Demi.” The plating was superbly done, and the only sounds during the meal, other than the clink of cutlery, were soft moans of delight from us both.
I had a mixed drink to start, Tammy seldom drinks with dinner, and was going to order a class of wine or two with my dinner. The hostess, however told us of their tradition that on Mondays and Wednesdays (they are closed on Tuesday) any bottle of wine was half price. I got a nice bottle of red, drank two glasses, and the hostess put the remainder in a bag for us to take home. We regretted not being able to do desert, and the bill was a bit over $80. Most reasonable, we thought, for the quality of the food.
So to answer your question, Azzure, yes “Ts” Restaurant is alive and well in Port Townsend. You should be aware that they are about to move, however. They are currently in that rather dumpy looking place down on Washington Street. Looks like it used to be a Mexican restaurant, with the arches and all. They will soon relocate to 141 Hudson Street, which is one of those old places at the marina at the end of Water Street that they are in the process of completely remodeling. We drove down to look at it, and it will have lots of light from big windows, an outside deck, and a lovely view. If the food does not change, it will be a big hit.
The rest later. I'm feeling guilty not doing yard work on this beautiful day.
Jun 1st, 2009, 11:09 AM
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The other two places we had been told about were the “Silverwater Cafe”, and the "Ajax Cafe" in Port Hadlock.
After a harried morning exploring the art shops on Water Street, we felt the need to visit the Rose Theatre. http://www.rosetheatre.com/index.html . Everyone visiting port Townsend should go to at least one movie in this funky old cinema. It is really a gem! We saw the 4:00 showing of “Valentino – The last Emperor”. I went at the urging of DW, expecting to be bored with a movie about Rudolf Valentino, the old movie star. Turns out it was a very well done documentary of the famous fashion designer. Quite enjoyable.
Our dear friends had raved about the Silverwater Cafe http://silverwatercafe.com/ . They said it was really worth the trip, so we made 8:00 reservations in great anticipation. It was only a block and a half away from our hotel, so at 7:00 we walked over to a sort of nightclub that features local entertainers. The “Upstage” http://www.upstagerestaurant.com/ proved to be a really laid back venue that featured a two acts that night. We only stayed for the first act, a Blonde young lady who sang and played the keyboard, and who was accompanied by an amazing young chap that sang and played an incredible number of instruments.
Reluctantly, we tore ourselves away and trudged the whole block over to the “Silverwater Cafe”. I wish now that we had stayed for the second act at the Upstage. The Silverwater is a pleasant venue, the staff seemed knowledgeable, the service was attentive, and we were seated in comfortable upholstered chairs in the upstairs lounge. The food, however, was – ehh. We started with a shared appetizer that sounded nice; “Baked Brie with Exotic Mushrooms”. What came was a pile of fried onions and mushrooms plopped on a bit of Brie. At least I think there was Brie under there, somewhere. If there was, it's flavor was completely overpowered by the onions. Tammy had “Prawn Alfredo” and I had the Lamb Chops, both off the “Specials” menu. Both dishes were all right – but only just. I had my usual couple glasses of red, and the bill was almost as much as we spent at T's the night before. Perhaps we were spoiled by T's, but there is little comparison between the food at the two restaurants, IMO. Don't know how to tell our friends who recommended it.
The other place we went to, on the recommendation of other friends, was the Ajax Cafe in Port Hadlock. http://www.ajaxcafe.com/ Their motto is “A little out of the way, but way out of the ordinary!” We had heard only that it was a funky little place in a funky little town, and that their thing was hats. We were told one must wear a hat, funny if possible, and that there were hats hung all over the interior of the place. Only the last part is true. Tammy brought one of her outrageous hats, but left it in the car, as nobody else's head was covered. The place is small. It is funky, and it is also a delight! We only had drinks, but a look at the menu, and the meals being served to other patrons made us wish we had eaten there. There was a small bandstand, so they probably have local talent on weekends. It looks to be a rare find, IMO, and despite the motto, it is not really that far out of the way. It is only about ten miles from downtown Port Townsend; perhaps a 15 minute drive.
Anyway, that ends my “mini” trip report. Looking at the length, it is not a mini report, but a report on a mini trip.
After a harried morning exploring the art shops on Water Street, we felt the need to visit the Rose Theatre. http://www.rosetheatre.com/index.html . Everyone visiting port Townsend should go to at least one movie in this funky old cinema. It is really a gem! We saw the 4:00 showing of “Valentino – The last Emperor”. I went at the urging of DW, expecting to be bored with a movie about Rudolf Valentino, the old movie star. Turns out it was a very well done documentary of the famous fashion designer. Quite enjoyable.
Our dear friends had raved about the Silverwater Cafe http://silverwatercafe.com/ . They said it was really worth the trip, so we made 8:00 reservations in great anticipation. It was only a block and a half away from our hotel, so at 7:00 we walked over to a sort of nightclub that features local entertainers. The “Upstage” http://www.upstagerestaurant.com/ proved to be a really laid back venue that featured a two acts that night. We only stayed for the first act, a Blonde young lady who sang and played the keyboard, and who was accompanied by an amazing young chap that sang and played an incredible number of instruments.
Reluctantly, we tore ourselves away and trudged the whole block over to the “Silverwater Cafe”. I wish now that we had stayed for the second act at the Upstage. The Silverwater is a pleasant venue, the staff seemed knowledgeable, the service was attentive, and we were seated in comfortable upholstered chairs in the upstairs lounge. The food, however, was – ehh. We started with a shared appetizer that sounded nice; “Baked Brie with Exotic Mushrooms”. What came was a pile of fried onions and mushrooms plopped on a bit of Brie. At least I think there was Brie under there, somewhere. If there was, it's flavor was completely overpowered by the onions. Tammy had “Prawn Alfredo” and I had the Lamb Chops, both off the “Specials” menu. Both dishes were all right – but only just. I had my usual couple glasses of red, and the bill was almost as much as we spent at T's the night before. Perhaps we were spoiled by T's, but there is little comparison between the food at the two restaurants, IMO. Don't know how to tell our friends who recommended it.
The other place we went to, on the recommendation of other friends, was the Ajax Cafe in Port Hadlock. http://www.ajaxcafe.com/ Their motto is “A little out of the way, but way out of the ordinary!” We had heard only that it was a funky little place in a funky little town, and that their thing was hats. We were told one must wear a hat, funny if possible, and that there were hats hung all over the interior of the place. Only the last part is true. Tammy brought one of her outrageous hats, but left it in the car, as nobody else's head was covered. The place is small. It is funky, and it is also a delight! We only had drinks, but a look at the menu, and the meals being served to other patrons made us wish we had eaten there. There was a small bandstand, so they probably have local talent on weekends. It looks to be a rare find, IMO, and despite the motto, it is not really that far out of the way. It is only about ten miles from downtown Port Townsend; perhaps a 15 minute drive.
Anyway, that ends my “mini” trip report. Looking at the length, it is not a mini report, but a report on a mini trip.
Jun 1st, 2009, 11:31 AM
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As soon as you said Silverwater Cafe, I sort of cringed! We have been there several times, and like you say it is ok, but definitely not great or anything. We have only been for lunches, and it works with the teens. No horrible food or experiences, but just not anything to write home about too.
I agree, the Rose Theater is pretty cool! The coffee shop across from it is pretty good too.
I agree, the Rose Theater is pretty cool! The coffee shop across from it is pretty good too.
Jun 2nd, 2009, 03:11 PM
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Yes, mms, I would go to the Rose Theatre just for their Popcorn. I understand they use real butter -- where can you find real butter on theater popcorn anymore? I also like it that a staff member comes to the front of the house, greets the audience, and tells you something about the film.
BTW, what is special about the coffee shop across the way? Oh, all the things we missed, and will have to go back for!
BTW, what is special about the coffee shop across the way? Oh, all the things we missed, and will have to go back for!
Jun 2nd, 2009, 03:27 PM
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nukesafe--DH and I really liked the coffee at that place, and the kids always get those enormous cookies (DH and I steal bits, so I can say they are good, lol!). I am picky about my coffee drinks, and that place fits my tastes We had a nice anniversary dinner one time at the Belmont. I should google and see how it is now. We sat out on the deck and it was early Sept. so beautiful weather. Kids stayed with friends, so we had no worries and I still remember how relaxing it was there. I never tire of Fort Worden though. Love all those bunkers for some reason, lol.
We had a nice anniversary dinner one time at the Belmont. I should google and see how it is now. We sat out on the deck and it was early Sept. so beautiful weather. Kids stayed with friends, so we had no worries and I still remember how relaxing it was there. I never tire of Fort Worden though. Love all those bunkers for some reason, lol.
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