ellen_griswold

Hi Fodorites!

Please critique this leg of july's out west road trip, the time allotted, if in the best order (N - S), and lodging.
I've done lots of research, read years (!) of posts here, have pages of notes. Our itineraries are never in stone as we like wiggle room for unexpected opportunities. Sorry so long, but all ideas appreciated!

SUN AM – Leave Yosemite Nat'l Park early (staying at yosemite lodge in the valley)

* possible lunch stop San Juan Bautista - explore mission, historical buildings in old town square (note, we've explored most of the missions in TX and CA, but not this one, and i realize its not really on the way - worth a couple hours?

* If not, ideas for a memorable, fun lunch?

* Felton, CA - Take Steam Train Ride on Roaring Camp Big Trees Railroad – one hour round trip (OR: Beach Train Ride thru Henry Cowell State Park – 3 hour roundtrip)

* stop in Castroville and see the Giant Artichoke - a kizschy road side stand (of course it's touristy but we ARE the Griswolds! lol) OR Watsonville (the strawberry capitol) at a roadside place and pick some up.

* go sea kayaking in the bay (any recco's for outfitters, or do on our own?)

* Explore Asilomar Beach / tidepools in Pacific Grove.

* see the Monarch butterflies in Pacific Grove (how do we actually do this??)

* Walk along the ocean pathways to Lover's Point Park and enjoy the tide pools and Pt. Pinos Lighthouse

* Stay overnight:
- Holiday Inn Express, Cannery Row, Monterey ( free w/points) OR
- Best Western Monterey Beach Resort OR
- Carmel Bay View Inn OR
- Asilomar Lodge??? (only to explore The Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary)

* Dinner at FISHWIFE, then drinks at Jack London’s Grill & Taproom (look for "Pro-Am regulars like kevin costner" ! who hang out there"... still true?)

MON - Breakfast at Toasties on Lighthouse in Pacific Grove.

* Carmel - visit mission in morning allowing the probable am fog to subside.... (again, since we have visited many missions in CA and TX -- should we see or skip this one?)

* pick up picnic lunch (maybe Bruno's Deli)

* Visit Pt. Lobos & State Preserve - (as EARLY as possible as cars are limited..?), Seal Point, Cypress Grove and Bird Island walks.

- Is it true we MIGHT see hump back whales in july? We've done whale watching in the san juans / pt. townsend, wash area - should we do a tour here?)

* California Sea Otter Refuge - how much time here?

* We've driven the 17 mile drive but scottish hubby clark would like to have a drink at Spanish Bay (or Roy's) for the Bagpiper

* Dinner California Market (Across from Point Lobos ?) or other moderate but memorable options?

* Lodging: wanted to stay at Big Sur Lodge (in Pfeffer state park) but we prefer oceanfront - anything in Big Sur that is oceanfront? OR should we stay a second night at the same place?

TUES - Explore Big Sur / Julia Pffeiffer State Park, McWay Falls (on way back, instead of climbing back up to the parking lot, continue on into the woods and hike in that direction to be in some nice redwoods. You can follow a somewhat easy trail and go in the direction marked Canyon Trail. (Ewoldson Trail is more intense.) It's not a long hike, and it was beautiful.

* Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park (DON’T do Valley View trail, said to be "very disappointing"??)

* Piedras Blancas Lighthouse to see the elephant seals

(Can anyone clarify this: "Pfeiffer Big Sur State park does not have beach access and is restricted so you need to get down there pretty early" ...???)

* Lunch at Nepenthe (or possibly Ragged Point, S.Big Sur) or Ventana Inn Patio

* Stay overnight:
- Best Western Cavalier Oceanfront Inn OR
- Best Western Fireside Inn, Cambria OR
- Castle Inn by the Sea, Moonstone beach

* Check out ‘Exotic Scapes’ nursery at San Simeon Pines Seaside Resort for 'amazing' cacti selection - still true?

* Dinner at The Moonstone Bar & Grill at "the rail" for beautiful oceanviews.

WEDS AM - Tour Hearst Castle or Reagan Library / Museum (we've done both 4-5 years ago)
OR, any other suggestions? A little background - we experienced much of CA including SF, Yosemite, Redwood NP, Sequoia and Kings Canyon NPs, the studios / LA thing, Laguna & Newport Beaches, San Diego & LaJolla, the Reagan & Nixon Libraries, and the basic tour of Hearst Castle, so wanted to really focus on the central, big sur coast.

WEDS PM - drive to Anaheim for thurs and friday at WallyWorld!

If you're still reading, sorry soo long, and thanks so much for any and all ideas!!!

J_Correa

* San Juan Bautista is great. Definitely worth a stop. And if you are coming from Yosemite, you can take hwy 140 from the valley down to Merced, then Hwy 65 (I think) to Hwy 152, which brings you almost directly to San Juan Bautista.

There is a kizchy place called Casa De Fruta hwy 152. It has a fruit stand, has a candy store, coffee shop famous for the "cup flipper", a gift shop, and clean bathrooms. It's been there for ages and just a funny place.

* Roaring Camp - I would take the 1 hour tour through the redwoods unless you have time to spend at the Boardwalk. I highly recommend the Boardwalk if you can fit it in, but if you don't have time and you ride the train down there, then you will feel deprived - LOL.

* Watsonville - On your way from San Juan Bautista over to the coast or Santa Cruz mountains, you can continue on Hwy 152 which will take you over Mt Madonna and drop you right into Watsonville. Off to the left at the first stop sign once you get over the hill is the road to Gizditch Ranch. This place is great if you want some fresh produce and local stuff. There is also a good produce stand at the first traffic light, just off to the right. We have been getting our produce there for years.

* Castroville - I just wanted to say that I love the giant artichoke.

* For the monarch butterflies, July isn't the season for them. They winter in the central coast and then fly north in the summer. So you are probably out of luck for that. You might see a few stragglers, but that's it.

* Point Lobos is terrific.

* On your way to Monterey, if you happen to be driving through Moss Landing when you are hungry, stop at Phil's Fish Market for some chowder. Yummmy.

kimamom

Sounds wonderful! You must try the fried artichokes at the Castroville road stand, we had them for an appetizer before lunch at Casanova in Carmel last September.

The California Market is a very nice place for a meal. Take a peek inside the lobby of the Highland's Inn, just beautiful!

In Cambria, we have enjoyed stays at the Fireside Inn, very nice clean property and reasonably priced.

The Monterey Beach Resort is also very nice, but a short drive into Monterey or Carmel just so you're aware of that factor. Have a wonderful trip, it looks like you have researched well! ***kim***

kimamom

And a big to Cielo at the Ventana Inn & Spa, it's beautiful from the outdoor patio. Try the squash soup, yummy and smooth as silk! ***kim***

babs001

I don't have much in the way of comment on the natural beauty part of your trip...we haven't seen alot of those places. I can speak to motel choices. The Best Western in San Simeon is very close to the castle and it's right on the water. A very 'beach-y' location. The motel is located on a frontage road that connects several businesses right along the highway.
The Best Western in Cambria (on Moonstone) seems a world away. All of the motels are up on the bluff overlooking the water. They are not on the water side of the road but they have unobstructed views. There is a wonderful boardwalk and the area has a 'woods-y' feel. Moonstone has a secluded feel even tho it is close to the highway. As Moonstone is off the highway and relatively short, everything is walkable. It is less than 10 minutes to Hearst's Castle.
I am unfamiliar with the 3rd place that you mentioned.
I'd definitely take another tour at HC if you haven't seen it all. We took 3 tours when we were there in Dec. There is a little duplication (the pools) but we didn't see any rooms more than once.

kimamom

The BW Cavalier property is looking very worn and outdated. I was at the property last May and found it to be very in need of renovations.

Stay in Cambria on Moonstone Drive, it's a much nicer area, IMO. ***kim***

kimamom

Castle Inn by the Sea is a very nice property, tho I haven't seen the rooms. It is directly across the street from where we like to walk down to Moonstone Beach with our blanket, books, goodies, etc. and park for the afternoon taking in the gorgeous ocean. There are lots of sea lions in this area that are great fun to watch. ***kim***

ellen_griswold

Thank you all for the replies!!!

Hi J_Correa, i was hoping you'd reply! Soo much of what i've already researched has come from your excellent advice. We'll definitely do San Juan Batista and Casa De Fruta sounds fun! So it's on hwy 152, on the way to Roaring Camp?

I do want to 'make' time for the 3 hour train trip and boardwalk but by the time we drive in from Yosemite, see San Juan Batista etc...is it worth moving kayaking and Asilomar Beach / Monterey Bay Marine Sanctuary to the next day?
Can you tell me more about the boardwalk?

We do prefer packing lots into each day within reason...and still want time for dinner at Fishwife and some chilling on the beach.

Phil's Fish Market would be great for lunch. Is it casual, close to the ocean? (We LOVE chowder!)

Kim, thanks for the lodging help! I've scratched BW Cavalier from my list. So between The BW Fireside Inn ($70 more) and Castle Inn by the Sea -- which do you think has the best view, with balcony or beach access? I'd like to explore Cambria a bit also.

And in Castroville, is there just 'one' stand for fried artichokes, the one with the giant artichoke?

Babs001, we've only done the first, basic tour of Hearst and DD doesn't remember too much about it. Which of the others would you recommend instead? I've heard the night tour is excellent, also? And when you say everything is walkable from moonstone beach, do you mean the village of Cambria?

Thanks again and please EVERYBODY, keep the ideas coming!

J_Correa

Hi Ellen,

Thanks for the compliments.

Casa de Fruta is on Hwy 152 between Los Banos and the turn off to San Juan Bautista.

I would absolutely positively move the kayaking to the next day - regardless of whether you take the 3 hour or 1 hour train tour. I don't really see how you could fit it into the same day.

The drive from Yosemite to San Juan Bautista is about 3 hours. San Juan Bautista to Felton via Hwy 152, Hwy 1, Hwy 17 is a good hour, maybe a little longer. You could also head up Hwy 101 into San Jose and take 280 to 17. I think timewise it's a wash, but the first route will be a nicer drive. Hwy 152 between Gilroy and Watsonville is a nice road - narrow and curvey through some redwoods and then some nice views of the Pajaro Valley once you get over the summit. Then the drive from Felton down to Monterey is another hour.

So you might be able to get to Monterey in time for a sunset paddle, but I wouldn't count on it. I know for myself after all that driving, I wouldn't be up for anymore than a stroll on the beach. I'd save the kayaking for the next day, maybe turn in early and get up for an early morning paddle.

I can absolutely tell you more about the Boardwalk - it is one of my favorite places It is a beachside amusement park that has been there for a long time - I think the Giant Dipper just celebrated it's 60th birthday. The Giant Dipper is a famous wooden roller coaster - lots of fun. There are quite a few rides, lots of carnival-type games, older-style arcade games like skeeball where you win tickets that you trade in for trinkets, tourist shops, vendors with waffle cones, dipped cones, deepfried artichoke hearts, hot dogs, etc. There is also an arcade and some miniture golf. Admission to the Boardwalk is free and if you want to go on rides, you can buy ride tickets or unlimited ride passes. Oh, and some of the best salt-water taffy anyplace at a shop called Marini's Munchies.

Next to the Boardwalk is the wharf, which has some nice views, resident sealions, and some restaurants and shops.

Phil's Fish Market is as casual as it gets. Moss Landing is a tiny little place and Phil's is a restaurant right on the marina. It doesn't have any ocean views, but you drive across a 1-lane bridge in the marina to get to it. Phil's is a fish market that recently (5 years ago or so, I guess) expanded into a restaurant due to the demand. Previously it just had a small diningroom stuck onto the side of the market where you could get your chowder in a bread bowl, deep fried artichoke hearts, fish and chips, and stuff like that. Since the expansion, there is more room. It still keeps it's ambiance though - you order at the counter and they bring the stuff out to you. When we go, we always see people coming in with stock pots to buy a whole pot's worth of chowder to go.

For the artichokes, there are several stands along Hwy 1, right in the middle of the fields. I don't know if these places sell anything cooked though - just fresh produce, jams, and that kind of thing. In Castroville itself, I believe there is only one place, and this is the place with the giant artichoke. Castroville is a pretty small place - you wont miss the giant artichoke.

kimamom

www.casadefruta.com is the website. We've always stopped here on our way over to the coast, it's great fun!

Marini's is a fun stop on the wharf in Santa Cruz, DD has a t-shirt she got there last summer that she loves! (Just please don't eat at the restaurants in this wharf!)

I would probably go with the Fireside Inn over Castle Inn. I know they have recently remodeled the rooms at Fireside. When we complained that the maids took our bagels out of the fridge, we were instantly compensated with a nice bottle of white wine from the area.

Also, just a minor detail here, but the pool is actually heated to a very pleasant temp, so that it doesn't "bite" you when you get in the water. Some rooms have oceanviews and small patios, but I'm sure those are quite a bit more expensive. ***kim***

PamSF

ellen~some tips on what I know. To see the MOnarchs you have to go up by the school. Just ask anyone in town and they'll give you directions. The grove is actually just that which is reached along a path in the midst of some motels. There are a variety of Eucalyptus trees from which the butterflies hang. One nature advice..the butterflies sometimes do get wet with rains and the heaviness makes them fall to the ground. I've seen kids trying to pick them up with sticks and causing their demise. Once they dry they can fly again. I'm not sure they will be there in July. I seem to remember its's October through March but check it out.

Point Lobos should be given a good couple of hours. You will see cars parked outside the park however you may well be able to park inside. The park ranger has a gate at which you pay (nominal) with a map of the sites. The tidepools are an easy walk. The loops out from the Whaler's house is also great.

The stop at the Giant artichoke is more for sentimentality than for anything particulaly noteworthy IMO. We do still stop though for some of those fried beauties.

Phil's Fish House is great fun and very casual.

In Monterey I also recommend the Monterey Fish House. It's a good locals place with every imaginable fish dish you could desire. It's very kid friendly.
If you stay aong Cannery Row(free with points), you will have easy access to places like the aquarium, the wharf just by taking the WAVE (the free shuttle). There is also a very nice shorepath along which you can walk from Pacific Grove to MOnterey. It's great sea otter viewing.

Breakfast at Toasties is great!

J_Correa

I've had many a good meal on the Santa Cruz wharf over the last 20 years. Stagnaros is a perenial favorite. Gilberts and Riva are good too.

montyw

There is a faster way from San Juan Bautista to Santa Cruz, and that is via Hwy 129. I wouldn't recomend 152 at all if you will already be in San Juan Bautista which is right where 129 goes to.

When we come and go from Santa Cruz to Hwy 5/Los Banos or even to and from Yosemite we always go via Hwy 1 - Hwy 129 - 101 - Hwy 25 10 Miles - Shore Road - Hwy 156 - Hwy 152 to I5 or onward toward Yosemite. This will save some time. (Reverse it for your route)

I would say it will take an hour from San Juan Batista to Santa Cruz and another 20 Minutes up to Roaring Camp via Grahmm Hill Road.

ellen_griswold

Wow, thanks everyone for your expertise and replies, i really appreciate it!

Hi J_Correa, i appreciate the additional specifics and directions! The boardwalk sounds like a blast and i'm hoping we can do that tour. It will depend on how quickly we can say goodbye to yosemite and do everything else. And a stop at phils will be a must! We'll definitely plan to kayak the next day. Are you (or anyone else) familiar with montereybaykayaks.com ? Is their 'tour' worth the time or should we just explore on our own?

Thx Kim for the lodging info. Do you(or anyone) know if its possible to walk to the town of cambria from moonstone beach? Looking for a place with some kind of ocean view ambiance, ideally within walking distance of town....is there such a place?

Hi PamSF!
Thanks for all the info, i also have many notes from your previous posts too. So you think Holiday Inn Express is the best choice for lodging the first night? Sounds like the Monterey Fish House is a better choice than Fishwife, as we're looking for great seafood but also a fun, memorable atmosphere. Is it close to the waterfront?

Still very confused about lodging the second night. Is staying in the Big Sur Lodge really special, similar to staying in Yellowstone or Glacier for example? Or, would you recommend staying oceanfront somewhere else?

Sorry so long, it's a 3 week road trip but i think we're most excited for this part of it. Thanks again all, and please keep the ideas coming everyone!

ellen_griswold

Hi montyw, thx for your reply. We'll definitely study the map to find the best use of our time, but i think we'll be going to Santa Cruz boardwalk only by train (from roaring camp)... i think?

sgbslo

You could conceivably walk to the village in Cambria from Moonstone but there are no sidewalks and you'd have to cross Hwy 1, so you'd probably be better off driving to the village. ExoticScapes does have a pretty good selection of cacti and exotic plants but it's rather small. There's another nursery in Cambria (I think it's called Cambria Nursery) which is very nice.
I think the butterflies will probably be gone by July. I know the ones around Pismo Beach leave in early March.

easytraveler

HI, ellen!

I've been having problems posting, so will do this in little itsy-bitsy chunks - hope you don't mind!

1) Will suggest you go Felton, San Juan Bautista - Castroville. You'll zigzag a bit, but always in a north-south direction. Otherwise, you will have to backtrack to Felton from SJB.

2) Food in San Juan Bautista - why not dine there if visiting the Mission? There are a number of wonderful restaurants in town, especially Mexican fare. There's also a great burger place that used to be near the Mission.

SJB was the mission where Hitchcock's Vertigo was filmed - guess you knew that. However, do not look for that famous tower - that was in Hollywood!

3)Are you planning to visit Pt Lobos very early in the morning because you're afraid you wouldn't get parking? In July, there might be fog in the morning. Personally I prefer Pt Lobos in brilliant sunshine. It's quite gorgeous. So... if you can't park inside the park (which isn't likely), you can always park alongside Highway 1 by the park. Plenty of people do that just to avoid paying for the entrance fee into the park.

(to be continued)

easytraveler

4) If you're going into the 17 Mile Drive, there's the Tap Room at the Pebble Beach Lodge, serving pub food.

5) Should you stay a second night at the same place? Depends. Personally I like a variety of experiences, but if you don't want to be packing and repacking, then stay two nights at the same place. Otherwise, I'd try to stay at the Big Sur Lodge. It's right in the redwoods, great forest living experience.

6) The hike in Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park along the Canyon Trail is fine, BUT, given the same amount of time, I'd opt to go to Limekilm State Park and hike to the waterfall there. The limekiln waterfall is one of the best kept secrets of the Big Sur coastline. It's a better wilderness experience; make sure you pick up some of the poles to get across the streams! The way it's been raining these days, there will probably still be water in the streams in July!

(to be continued)

easytraveler

7) On Pfeiffer Big Sur Park, I don't understand your quote. What needs to be clarified? Big Sur is INLAND, so there's always sunshine at Big Sur, even if there is fog along the rest of the coast. I guess it's the "restricted" that I don't understand. What's restricted? Parking? Lodging? Restaurants? Hiking?

If it's the parking, then, if you are staying at Big Sur Lodge, you'll get parking regardless...

8) If you want to hike in Pfeiffer Big Sur Park, I'd suggest the short one hour hike to Pfeiffer Falls. Otherwise, your time is better spent hiking Pt Lobos or Limekiln or Julia Pfeiffer Burns. OR, you should try getting onto Carmel Beach really early in the morning and romp around with all our furry friends - now that's a different experience! There are a number of wonderful beach hikes you could do: Pfeiffer Beach, Andrew Molera, Sand Dollar...

9) Lots of elephant seals just before you get to Cambria. There are a number of "Beach Access" signs and any one of those will lead you to the beach where the elephant seals are lying around - smelly! Phewwwww! But a sight worth seeing. If you're lucky, there will be a ranger doing explanations.

Well, I'm certain you'll get a lot more comments! Enjoy your trip, ellen!

J_Correa

ellen - I've never been kayaking in the bay, so I don't have any information about any of the outfitters.