Our first time New York and Washington DC
May 15th, 2012, 03:16 AM
#23
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willit - really enjoying your report and impressions. You stayed in my neighborhood - made the diner stories even more amusing! Where did you get the pastrami? I wonder if you missed 2nd Ave Deli on 1st and 75th? That is truly the best, but for breakfast??? 
May 15th, 2012, 10:23 AM
#25
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TDudette - I have tried hard not to say where I stayed for a couple of reasons. The first is embarrassment - having asked the advice of Fodorites, I ended up ignoring it and renting an apartment anyway. The second is that I know it is illegal to rent out certain apartments in NYC, so it seems irresponsible to promote such behaviour, even if it opens me up to allegations of hypocrisy.
I had initially tried to use a UK agency, figuring that if it went wrong, then I would have some local recourse and they would probably be using only "legitimate" rentals. It soon became apparent that several of them were offering the same apartments I could organise myself on Flipkey or VRBO, just charging higher fees.
That the apartment existed and I didn't get scammed was probably as much down to luck as judgement. As it was the place was exactly as advertised, the owner was extremely helpful, and all worked out fine - but I wasn't certain until the key turned in the lock that I had somewhere to stay.
I had initially tried to use a UK agency, figuring that if it went wrong, then I would have some local recourse and they would probably be using only "legitimate" rentals. It soon became apparent that several of them were offering the same apartments I could organise myself on Flipkey or VRBO, just charging higher fees.
That the apartment existed and I didn't get scammed was probably as much down to luck as judgement. As it was the place was exactly as advertised, the owner was extremely helpful, and all worked out fine - but I wasn't certain until the key turned in the lock that I had somewhere to stay.
May 15th, 2012, 10:30 AM
#26
Original Poster
Washington DC
The Amtrack train proved a pleasant way to travel. The comfortable seats and WiFi meant that the 3.5 hour journey seemed to go much faster.
I was shocked by the apparent poverty of some of the areas of Philadelphia (and later of Baltimore), although other parts of the city visible from the train made me think it would definitely be worth a visit.
We arrived in Washington, and had a small crisis. My beloved felt a sharp edge on her hand, looked down , and realised the diamond was missing from her engagement ring (which is welded to her wedding band). The train had already gone, and even if we could have searched, the diamond could have been anywhere between the Upper East Side of Manhattan and Washington Union station.
DB was almost inconsolable, it was not that it was a large or valuable (in money terms) stone, but what it represented. I tried to reassure her that it didn’t mean we were any less married, but apart from that there was not really much I could do.
The taxi from ride from the station to our rental accommodation was quick and easy – taking about 15 minutes and not of the exciting kind experienced in the New York. We were met by our hosts, Lara and Alex and shown down to a very nice basement room. A great deal of thought had gone into equipping the apartment, and we were to spend a very comfortable week here. (I am happy to post a link should anybody want me to).
It was still quite early, so map in hand we walked the up to the Metro station and recharged the metrocards that our hosts had lent us – at least I thought I had. It turned out I had misread the instructions, and donated $30 to the metro company (I assumed because the machine now showed a balance of $20 on the card, that the job was done – without realising that I had to re-swipe the card to update the changes.
We got off at Union station intending to have a look at the Capitol and Mall to orientate ourselves. The weather disagreed, and as we walked from the station, the heavens opened sending us scurrying inside. Nothing for it but to stop in one of the balcony bars and have a beer while waiting for the rain to clear: It didn’t.
Not wishing to have completely wasted the trip, we decided to eat at the Thunder Grill restaurant in the station. It was pleasant enough: The food and service were both fine, but uninspiring, and the incident with the engagement ring had put a downer on the whole day. Neither of us felt like doing anything more than heading for home.
There are some Washington photos at http://tinyurl.com/cp4a47o I have far more to upload, but will do so as I work through them. I made no notes in Washington, so am relying on the photos to jog my memory.
The Amtrack train proved a pleasant way to travel. The comfortable seats and WiFi meant that the 3.5 hour journey seemed to go much faster.
I was shocked by the apparent poverty of some of the areas of Philadelphia (and later of Baltimore), although other parts of the city visible from the train made me think it would definitely be worth a visit.
We arrived in Washington, and had a small crisis. My beloved felt a sharp edge on her hand, looked down , and realised the diamond was missing from her engagement ring (which is welded to her wedding band). The train had already gone, and even if we could have searched, the diamond could have been anywhere between the Upper East Side of Manhattan and Washington Union station.
DB was almost inconsolable, it was not that it was a large or valuable (in money terms) stone, but what it represented. I tried to reassure her that it didn’t mean we were any less married, but apart from that there was not really much I could do.
The taxi from ride from the station to our rental accommodation was quick and easy – taking about 15 minutes and not of the exciting kind experienced in the New York. We were met by our hosts, Lara and Alex and shown down to a very nice basement room. A great deal of thought had gone into equipping the apartment, and we were to spend a very comfortable week here. (I am happy to post a link should anybody want me to).
It was still quite early, so map in hand we walked the up to the Metro station and recharged the metrocards that our hosts had lent us – at least I thought I had. It turned out I had misread the instructions, and donated $30 to the metro company (I assumed because the machine now showed a balance of $20 on the card, that the job was done – without realising that I had to re-swipe the card to update the changes.
We got off at Union station intending to have a look at the Capitol and Mall to orientate ourselves. The weather disagreed, and as we walked from the station, the heavens opened sending us scurrying inside. Nothing for it but to stop in one of the balcony bars and have a beer while waiting for the rain to clear: It didn’t.
Not wishing to have completely wasted the trip, we decided to eat at the Thunder Grill restaurant in the station. It was pleasant enough: The food and service were both fine, but uninspiring, and the incident with the engagement ring had put a downer on the whole day. Neither of us felt like doing anything more than heading for home.
There are some Washington photos at http://tinyurl.com/cp4a47o I have far more to upload, but will do so as I work through them. I made no notes in Washington, so am relying on the photos to jog my memory.
May 15th, 2012, 10:44 AM
#27
So sorry to hear of the loss of the diamond -- I would have felt the same way your wife did. 
Your photo's are gorgeous! And you made it to Ben's Chili Bowl!! Not on the beaten track for most visitors!
Your photo's are gorgeous! And you made it to Ben's Chili Bowl!! Not on the beaten track for most visitors!
May 15th, 2012, 10:45 AM
#28
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Nice photos of DC! Looks like you covered some ground.
I'm not conversant with the apartment technicalities in NYC. If the place where you stayed was available through a bonafide agency, perhaps it was one of the legal ones? I'm glad your NYC apartment worked out OK and understand your hesitency.
I'm not conversant with the apartment technicalities in NYC. If the place where you stayed was available through a bonafide agency, perhaps it was one of the legal ones? I'm glad your NYC apartment worked out OK and understand your hesitency.
May 15th, 2012, 11:01 AM
#29
Sorry about your diamond -- that is a bummer and would ruin my day too. Great photos! Where did u eat the lobster roll? It looks fabulous with such huge chunks of lobster.
Thanks for your contribution to the DC Metro -- it needs all the help it can get!
Thanks for your contribution to the DC Metro -- it needs all the help it can get!
May 15th, 2012, 11:04 AM
#30
Original Poster
Sunday
A beautiful day in terms of weather – bright and sunny, but DB was feeling decidedly under the unwell. She dosed herself up with cold medicine, and insisted that it was too nice not to be out and about.
We set off early to explore, catching the metro into Union station again. We were amazed at how few people were about. We walked over to, then around the Capitol, and had it almost to ourselves.
I say almost, because there were a small group of campaigners involved in a 90 hour Bible reading session. I am not exactly sure of their point: whether they objected to/were promoting anything specific , but it was interesting to see. I suspect a similar effort in the UK might be considered a little strange.
We walked then walked down as far as the Grant memorial, then across to the Canadian Embassy and the FBI building, then turned up into the more built up areas in search of a pharmacy for more cold medicine (which we found).
On the way back towards the Mall, we past Luke’s Lobsters – it seemed like an idea, and we ordered a lobster roll, a crab roll, two beers , chips and pickles and thoroughly enjoyed sitting at a table in the street in the sunshine.
We finished lunch, and carried on, finding the Navy memorial which I found simple and effective. The single life sized statue of the sailor with kitbag is very evocative. My family has a long tradition of naval service, albeit in the Royal Navy, so this memorial struck a chord.
The walk continued up past the White House (And the obligatory large number of photographs), then on towards the Washington Monument, past large numbers of games of kickball – seemingly a hybrid of soccer and baseball – I’ve never seen it before, but there seemed like many teams were taking part, organising games informally. It appeared that having fun was far more important than winning, and as the game was played by mixed teams of men and women, it was all hugely social.
So on to the World War II memorial, and another preconception destroyed. In Internet discussions, even in intelligent and mostly good natured places like Fodor’s, there is a tendency for the occasional transatlantic argument to get out of hand, for World Wars to be brought up, for accusations to be made and eventually it will all end up as “If it wasn’t for us you’d all be speaking German”.
So I had assumed that war memorials would be some great flag waving celebration of American military prowess. I could not have been more wrong.
I found both the WWII and Korean War memorials to be simple and moving. Celebrations and commemorations of those who served and died, obviously American, but inclusive of her allies.
It was also good to see all the visitors to these memorials – groups of school kids, in a couple of cases accompanied by war veterans who were rightfully being lauded for their service.
A beautiful day in terms of weather – bright and sunny, but DB was feeling decidedly under the unwell. She dosed herself up with cold medicine, and insisted that it was too nice not to be out and about.
We set off early to explore, catching the metro into Union station again. We were amazed at how few people were about. We walked over to, then around the Capitol, and had it almost to ourselves.
I say almost, because there were a small group of campaigners involved in a 90 hour Bible reading session. I am not exactly sure of their point: whether they objected to/were promoting anything specific , but it was interesting to see. I suspect a similar effort in the UK might be considered a little strange.
We walked then walked down as far as the Grant memorial, then across to the Canadian Embassy and the FBI building, then turned up into the more built up areas in search of a pharmacy for more cold medicine (which we found).
On the way back towards the Mall, we past Luke’s Lobsters – it seemed like an idea, and we ordered a lobster roll, a crab roll, two beers , chips and pickles and thoroughly enjoyed sitting at a table in the street in the sunshine.
We finished lunch, and carried on, finding the Navy memorial which I found simple and effective. The single life sized statue of the sailor with kitbag is very evocative. My family has a long tradition of naval service, albeit in the Royal Navy, so this memorial struck a chord.
The walk continued up past the White House (And the obligatory large number of photographs), then on towards the Washington Monument, past large numbers of games of kickball – seemingly a hybrid of soccer and baseball – I’ve never seen it before, but there seemed like many teams were taking part, organising games informally. It appeared that having fun was far more important than winning, and as the game was played by mixed teams of men and women, it was all hugely social.
So on to the World War II memorial, and another preconception destroyed. In Internet discussions, even in intelligent and mostly good natured places like Fodor’s, there is a tendency for the occasional transatlantic argument to get out of hand, for World Wars to be brought up, for accusations to be made and eventually it will all end up as “If it wasn’t for us you’d all be speaking German”.
So I had assumed that war memorials would be some great flag waving celebration of American military prowess. I could not have been more wrong.
I found both the WWII and Korean War memorials to be simple and moving. Celebrations and commemorations of those who served and died, obviously American, but inclusive of her allies.
It was also good to see all the visitors to these memorials – groups of school kids, in a couple of cases accompanied by war veterans who were rightfully being lauded for their service.
May 15th, 2012, 11:08 AM
#31
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There are no legal apartments in NYC for rent to transients (staying for less than 30 days).
Sorry about those CD guys. Funny, I've lived in NYC all my life and have never had anyone hassle me about buying stuff like that. Been approached, asked, but thats all. Not hassled. Just walk away. Sure you didn't have a t-shirt that said "tourist" on it? (ha ha) Don't feel guilty about NOT spending your money.
Yes, diner menus are huge. But since eggs can be made in various ways, it's a given that you will either be specific or will be asked. Don't you have choices where you're from? And there are many types of bread offered here in NYC diners - white, whole wheat, rye, sometimes Challah. That being said, you could have just run into a not very well humored server.
Sorry about those CD guys. Funny, I've lived in NYC all my life and have never had anyone hassle me about buying stuff like that. Been approached, asked, but thats all. Not hassled. Just walk away. Sure you didn't have a t-shirt that said "tourist" on it? (ha ha) Don't feel guilty about NOT spending your money.
Yes, diner menus are huge. But since eggs can be made in various ways, it's a given that you will either be specific or will be asked. Don't you have choices where you're from? And there are many types of bread offered here in NYC diners - white, whole wheat, rye, sometimes Challah. That being said, you could have just run into a not very well humored server.
May 15th, 2012, 11:23 AM
#32
Original Poster
Sunday cont'd
Onwards, towards the Lincoln memorial- I was disappointed that there was so much renovation and repair work on the Mall, and the famous reflecting pools were empty, except for one pathetic narrow strip of water and two rather puzzled ducks. Realistically I suppose the window for repairs must be quite small between winter and the main influxes of tourists.
So slowly back towards home –or that was the plan. We followed the Potomac around to the Tidal Pool, rather unkindly smirking at the paddleboaters who had drifted to one side of the pool, blown by the wind, and now were struggling to get back to the boathouse – the harder the pedalling, the more the water is churned and the less forward motion attained.
Another 15 minutes or so brought us to the fish market, which was heaving with people, buying various seafood, and then having it cooked at the market itself. We carried on along the river, hoping to find a waterside restaurant, but those we did find were all packed.
We eventually reached the Navy yards, and a Titanic memorial. This was most strange, in that I live near Southampton, the port from which the Titanic set sail on her maiden voyage. As April marked the 100th anniversary, we had been inundated with all things Titanic for weeks. Having passed the actual date of the sinking, I had assumed we were safe!
Having no success with the seafood restaurant, we decided to find something DB had been wanting to try ever since arriving in the States, a chilli dog. Working on the assumption that if it is good enough for the president of the USA, it is good enough for clueless tourists, we set off to find Ben’s Chili Bowl. Despite my trepidation at the first look of the place, anywhere with lines that long couldn’t be all bad, and the food was very tasty indeed.
Calculating our various routes on google pedometer, it seems we walked well over ten miles during the day, so it was no surprise that we were a little tired by the time we got back to the apartment.
Onwards, towards the Lincoln memorial- I was disappointed that there was so much renovation and repair work on the Mall, and the famous reflecting pools were empty, except for one pathetic narrow strip of water and two rather puzzled ducks. Realistically I suppose the window for repairs must be quite small between winter and the main influxes of tourists.
So slowly back towards home –or that was the plan. We followed the Potomac around to the Tidal Pool, rather unkindly smirking at the paddleboaters who had drifted to one side of the pool, blown by the wind, and now were struggling to get back to the boathouse – the harder the pedalling, the more the water is churned and the less forward motion attained.
Another 15 minutes or so brought us to the fish market, which was heaving with people, buying various seafood, and then having it cooked at the market itself. We carried on along the river, hoping to find a waterside restaurant, but those we did find were all packed.
We eventually reached the Navy yards, and a Titanic memorial. This was most strange, in that I live near Southampton, the port from which the Titanic set sail on her maiden voyage. As April marked the 100th anniversary, we had been inundated with all things Titanic for weeks. Having passed the actual date of the sinking, I had assumed we were safe!
Having no success with the seafood restaurant, we decided to find something DB had been wanting to try ever since arriving in the States, a chilli dog. Working on the assumption that if it is good enough for the president of the USA, it is good enough for clueless tourists, we set off to find Ben’s Chili Bowl. Despite my trepidation at the first look of the place, anywhere with lines that long couldn’t be all bad, and the food was very tasty indeed.
Calculating our various routes on google pedometer, it seems we walked well over ten miles during the day, so it was no surprise that we were a little tired by the time we got back to the apartment.
May 15th, 2012, 11:53 AM
#33
Original Poster
DB’s cold had got a great deal worse, and she didn’t want to do anything except sleep.
We had probably overdone it the day before, and for the entire week before that. We both really enjoy walking, but the cumulative effect was mounting, and DB complained that “Even my blisters have blisters”.
Today would be a good day to rest and recuperate – or to do the laundry. I found there was a laundromat not far from the house, so set off. Since first arriving, I’d found Brookland to be a very attractive area. It was clean, lots of greenery, a glut of squirrels, and the people seemed really friendly. I am presuming that the majority of inhabitants are black (based on all the candidates on the election posters in the area).
I was certainly unique in the Laundromat being the only male, and by far the palest person there. While I was reading the instructions , trying to work out what I would need (detergent and quarters as it turned out, twice I was asked “can I help you” in a tone that suggested “what are you doing here?” It was only when I started loading my laundry into the machine that the strange looks stopped (I might be exaggerating, but it seemed that way to me)
Spent the rest of the day catching up on Emails, sorting photographs etc.
We had probably overdone it the day before, and for the entire week before that. We both really enjoy walking, but the cumulative effect was mounting, and DB complained that “Even my blisters have blisters”.
Today would be a good day to rest and recuperate – or to do the laundry. I found there was a laundromat not far from the house, so set off. Since first arriving, I’d found Brookland to be a very attractive area. It was clean, lots of greenery, a glut of squirrels, and the people seemed really friendly. I am presuming that the majority of inhabitants are black (based on all the candidates on the election posters in the area).
I was certainly unique in the Laundromat being the only male, and by far the palest person there. While I was reading the instructions , trying to work out what I would need (detergent and quarters as it turned out, twice I was asked “can I help you” in a tone that suggested “what are you doing here?” It was only when I started loading my laundry into the machine that the strange looks stopped (I might be exaggerating, but it seemed that way to me)
Spent the rest of the day catching up on Emails, sorting photographs etc.
May 15th, 2012, 12:37 PM
#35
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I'm enjoying your trip report. I leave in a week and a half for DC and NYC and I was excited to see your photo of the lobster roll - I've specifically made plans to venture to Luke's Lobster for lunch one day.
I know there are also locations in NYC, but going to the DC location worked better with our plans. Your lunch looked delicious!
I know there are also locations in NYC, but going to the DC location worked better with our plans. Your lunch looked delicious!
May 15th, 2012, 10:41 PM
#37
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Your report is great. Hubby and I recently did the same trip, but DC first and then NYC. And where you traveled west to get there, we traveled east from CA. And we went the opposite route on the National Mall.
And your pics are great! Some nearly identical to ours--seriously, there's limited angles for Apollo and the Spirit of St Louis--others were unique. And so enjoyable.
And your pics are great! Some nearly identical to ours--seriously, there's limited angles for Apollo and the Spirit of St Louis--others were unique. And so enjoyable.
May 16th, 2012, 05:53 AM
#38
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Hi willit,
I'm still enjoying your post. I was struck by your comments about the poverty seen from the train in B'more and Philadelphia (I imagine you're referring to the boarded-up rowhomes, the burnt-out warehouses.) It's amazing to think how many people pass through that on the regional and Acela trains on a daily basis, sometimes even movers and shakers in financial and political circles. People shake their heads, the situation saddens, is criticized, bemoaned, looked down upon, but yet it's been this way as long as I've known. Tongue-clacking and head-shaking is unfortunately all most of us (myself included) do with regards to the situation.
Thankfully there are people out there who do care and work to improve the lot of the inner-city poor, but solutions are elusive and I think sadly crime probably seems to some to be the only way out. When I lived in Baltimore, I attended an advocacy group to improve public transit in the city, but I don't think we did much more than forward our suggestions to supportive delegates in the Maryland government.
Given what I've written above, it might surprise you that Philly and Baltimore are two of my favourite cities in the USA, with non-generic neighbourhoods and unique markets whose energy I just love. I'd recommend a visit should you come back to the US.
Best wishes, Daniel
I'm still enjoying your post. I was struck by your comments about the poverty seen from the train in B'more and Philadelphia (I imagine you're referring to the boarded-up rowhomes, the burnt-out warehouses.) It's amazing to think how many people pass through that on the regional and Acela trains on a daily basis, sometimes even movers and shakers in financial and political circles. People shake their heads, the situation saddens, is criticized, bemoaned, looked down upon, but yet it's been this way as long as I've known. Tongue-clacking and head-shaking is unfortunately all most of us (myself included) do with regards to the situation.
Thankfully there are people out there who do care and work to improve the lot of the inner-city poor, but solutions are elusive and I think sadly crime probably seems to some to be the only way out. When I lived in Baltimore, I attended an advocacy group to improve public transit in the city, but I don't think we did much more than forward our suggestions to supportive delegates in the Maryland government.
Given what I've written above, it might surprise you that Philly and Baltimore are two of my favourite cities in the USA, with non-generic neighbourhoods and unique markets whose energy I just love. I'd recommend a visit should you come back to the US.
Best wishes, Daniel
May 16th, 2012, 06:09 AM
#39
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My goodness, you did a long walk! Hope your DW felt better later.
Baltimore, Philly and DC have a wealth of wonderful places. It always troubled DH that so many of the "ways in" to these cities were so unattractive. Bravo, Daniel.
Baltimore, Philly and DC have a wealth of wonderful places. It always troubled DH that so many of the "ways in" to these cities were so unattractive. Bravo, Daniel.
May 16th, 2012, 08:24 AM
#40
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Brookland is a fairly integrated neighborhood, because of its proximity to Catholic University and a large hospital complex. It is more middle-class than surrounding neighborhoods, although that is rapidly changing as the surrounding neighborhoods gentrify.
