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optimystic's O`ahu and Kaua`i trip report

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optimystic's O`ahu and Kaua`i trip report

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Old Oct 2nd, 2007, 04:27 AM
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CAR RENTAL

We rented a car just for a couple of days. One thing we love about Waikiki is that you just don't need one. I made a reservation for Thursday lunchtime until Saturday lunchtime, giving us 3 days with the car, but in the end we returned it at the end of Friday since there was a parade and air show in Waikiki on the Saturday.

I reserved with Budget in order to pretty much guarantee a Mustang convertible (over a Sebring). This was a surprise for Andy, who is a car lover! A Mustang is viewed as a typical American sports car (according to my dad, anyway - I know nothing about cars!) and Andy loved it. It was quite expensive at $100/day but this included all insurances etc, which I needed since our insurance in the UK wouldn't cover it.

The gas prices in Hawaii are reported as being really high, but for us they were rather cheap. I just worked out that the equivalent price in the UK is approx $7.40/gallon, whereas in Hawaii we paid something just over $3/gallon!

ROUND TOP/TANTALUS DRIVE

We picked up the car from the Budget location at the Hyatt in Waikiki just after lunch and made our way out of Waikiki to do the Round top/Tantalus drive. We used Oahu Revealed's maps and directions which are very good (I am not a big fan of the book's tone but I must admit the maps are the best I've found for navigating around Hawaii's islands).

The drive is very scenic, with switchbacks as you climb higher, providing better and better views of coastline, from Diamond Head around to the airport. We stopped at the Puu Ualaokua Park Lookout for some fabulous views.

We drove the loop clockwise, on Round top and then onto Tantalus. After the lookout on Tantalus the road is closed so we had to drive back the way we came.

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Old Oct 2nd, 2007, 04:45 AM
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MANOA FALLS

After finishing the Round top/Tantalus drive there was still plenty of life left in the day so we decided to go to Manoa Falls for a short hike. We parked in the Paradise Park lot which cost $5. Included in this though was the use of mosquito repellent!

Definitely wear trainers (sneakers?) or proper hiking shoes/boots since I saw a couple of people in flip flops who didn't make it! The trail can be slippery with awkward footing in some places but overall its an easy hike.

It was a nice hike to do and we enjoyed it. It was very humid and "close", especially by the falls where the air was really thick (it was mid afternoon). I don't think there had been alot of rain recently so the falls weren't really pumping, but there was enough water to have make the hike worth it. We met a nice couple at the top who told us "marriage just keeps getting better and better as the years go on!".
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Old Oct 2nd, 2007, 06:07 AM
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NORTH SHORE

The full day with the car, we decided to go up to the north shore beaches. Last time in Waikiki we had driven to Diamond Head, Hanauma Bay and along the windward coast but by the time we had got to the north shore it was later and we had just driven through. So this time we drove straight to the north shore.

We went up through central O`ahu, up the H2, then turned off towards the western end of the North Shore to Mokule`ia beach. This is where some Lost filming has taken place, and I must admit, a big reason why we went there since we are fans. Its a lovely, long, empty beach. There was no-one there but us in the morning. We enjoyed walking along the beach, watching the untamed surf.

Next we drove through Hale`iwa, making the obligatory stop at Matsumoto's for shave ice. Well I have to say whilst it was very nice, all the shave ice we had in Kaua`i the next week beat it!

Next we drove along the north shore, stopping at Waimea Bay, `Ehukai Beach and Sunset Beach. The weather was fantastic with bright blue sky and we got some lovely photographs. We enjoyed just sitting on the beach watching a few people boogie boarding and surfing on the waves.

For a late lunch, we drove just around the coast a little further to Kahuku for a shrimp lunch at Romy's. This is the first shrimp place you come to as you drive clockwise around the island; it is red, you cannot miss it. It is where we had our shrimp lunch last time on O`ahu, and it was great again. The staff were lovely and welcomed us to Hawaii (I think it was the accent). I had the garlic shrimp and Andy had sweet and sour. Highly recommended!

After our lunch, we made an unplanned stop at the Waimea Valley Audubon Center. We hadn't intended to go there but were passing on the drive back to Waikiki and I remember the waterfall there had been in Lost (bad reason I know!).

We really enjoyed this stop. It cost about $8 to get in, but it is an enjoyable walk through pretty gardens to the waterfall, where you can swim. When we got to the waterfall it was not flowing that much, but still pretty. They have a lifeguard there and there were quite a few people having a swim. I was very envious - we had not brought our swimming suits with us and were sorely disappointed not to be able to have a dip!

PHOTOS

Photos for the O`ahu part of our trip can be found at http://www.worldisround.com/articles/337098/index.html

I think that is it for the O`ahu portion of our honeymoon. The report on Kaua`i will be continued later... I have to go to Utrecht for a couple of days now so unfortunately I will have to keep you waiting until next week for that!

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Old Oct 2nd, 2007, 06:15 AM
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optimystic

First off I wish you and your husband all the love and luck in the world.

I have never had the desire to go to Hawaii. Like yourself that long plane ride turns me off. And I'm just in Detroit. I Love Cancun. It's 3 hours from here and the beaches are fantastic.

But after reading your post (and some of the others) I think I'm ready to go. I must admit I've always wanted to see the USS Arizona memorial there, but not much else. But all this beach talk, food talk, dolphin stuff, it's really making me want to look into a vacation there.

There are some Awesome deals to Hawaii lately. I'm thinking maybe business is down right now. Our family takes a vacation togethter every 2 years. Last time Italy, This year a Cruise I'm going to suggest a trip to Hawaii.

Keep going with the trip post, I'm really Loving it.

BTW, I have never met a UK I didn't like. While on a cruise 5 years ago My Husband and I met a Mother and Daughter from London who were doing back to back Carrib. Cruise. We shared the dinner table each night and we fell in love with them. We had a riot with them and to this day stay in touch via email. While in Cancun I met a couple from UK and they were so wonderful. Each day we'd meet for lunch and sit around and talk about the city were from. I still talk with them too.

Happy Married Life.

Theresa in Detroit.
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Old Oct 2nd, 2007, 06:52 AM
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Thanks Theresa for you kind message! Sounds like you have a good impression of the UK people so far which is nice to know

Everyone I've ever met who has been to Hawaii has loved it, despite the long journey. My parents first took me there when I was a teenager and having seen our photos from this trip are longing to go back, its just that flight! But the long journey does make it more special, because it's not so easy to get there.

And on this trip, we really didn't even scratch the surface of things to do. On the previous visit we have seen the Arizona memorial, snorkelled Hanauma Bay and hiked Diamond Head for example. And keep reading for Kaua`i!

I can't imagine not loving Hawaii, so if you do go, I'm sure you'd have an amazing time.
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Old Oct 2nd, 2007, 09:06 AM
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hmmmmm butter is used in sandwiches here, but maybe not in commercial establishments? I will admit that the cheese in America is crap, not anything like any place in Europe!


Next time you come to Hawaii, try Aoki's or Miura's shave ice instead of Matsumoto's. Matsumoto's gets more hype, but I don't think it is the best.

Did you get to see the Aloha Festivals parade?
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Old Oct 2nd, 2007, 10:52 AM
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Hi Melissa, thanks for your reply.

You know, I was planning that we would try Aoki's, but it was closed. It was late morning (before noon), so maybe thats why.

We did see some of the Aloha Parade from our lanai which partially overlooked Kalakaua. Unfortunately we weren't down on the street - we had thought the parade was coming through later than it did, so we just ended up catching it from high above. That Saturday was brilliant, Waikiki had a good buzz about it with both the parade and air display happening. We were lucky to be there! The previous time we were in Waikiki there was a Spam fest, so it seems like theres always something going on which is great!
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Old Oct 2nd, 2007, 11:09 AM
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Enjoying your trip report! I love Hawaii and it's a great choice for a honeymoon.

FYI: the Cheesecake Factory is a huge U.S. chain with locations all over the country. You're right, it's nothing special (and often kinda crappy) -- but American really love those cheesecakes, I guess. I can't imagine eating there in Hawaii, but I guess it's not a chain to you if you don't have it in the UK. (And you noticed the portion sizes, which is probably one reason it's really popular with supersize Americans.)
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Old Oct 2nd, 2007, 11:48 AM
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Congratulations optimystic.... also am loving the trip reports, please keep them coming. I'm taking notes for my next trip back to Oahu.
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Old Oct 8th, 2007, 07:13 AM
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KAUAI

Sorry about the delay folks! I'm here to start again with the Kaua`i portion of our trip. Just a short introduction today, with a promise for some more tomorrow.

We flew Hawaiian Airlines to Lihue from Honolulu and it was all very trouble free. We arrived on Kauai at about 11.30 am and quickly were at Dollar to pick our car up. My, the queues!!! It was crazy. (I have read on this board that some people will go and pick up their car while the other get luggage - now I know why!!) It didn't take too long in the end, and anyway, we were on Kauai and didn't mind a little waiting. We got a 4 door economy car - the name of it escapes me right now, but its in the photos. Oh yes a Dodge Calibur. We had booked a 2 door car and they tried to sell us a 4 door. You really need those extra doors, right!! Anyway sure enough we got a 4 door anyway, so don't fall for the sales patter.

We were staying on the North Shore, in Hanalei. I would like to thank fellow Fodorites for this recommendation, as Hanalei was just right for us! But more about that later.

So we made our way north. We stopped in Kilauea for lunch, picking up a slice of pizza and salad at Pau Hana Pizza and Bakery. Very good pizza - although the girl at the counter was alittle angry, shall we say! But a nice meal to introduce us to Kauai.

We continued to drive to Hanalei, past Princeville, down the valley, over the one-lane bridge to enter Hanalei. We drove through Hanalei and found our rental property easily.

We were staying at the Hanalei Moon Beach Cottage. This is one of the Kobayashi properties right on the beachfront on Weke Road. It is located about 10 minutes walk from the town and it is right on the bay, almost exactly in the middle of the crescent-shape.

Let me say, for us the location was perfect, we definitely wanted to be within walking distance of the shops and restaurants and easily lugging distance of the beach so it suited us perfectly.

The cost was $1500/wk, but then adding taxes, cleaning fee and security deposit (which I pretty much wrote off as getting it back and converting to UK money is such a pain) it was more like $2000. Ok, I just checked back and it was $2,021.15 all together. I think for beachfront in Hanalei that is pretty good. Most of the beachfront homes look big and expensive, but this place was small and comfy.

There are 4 other rental properties on the same lot. Our neighbours were all very nice (apart from our final night when a large and noisy party moved into the biggest house, grrr!)

I will continue with more on Hanalei tomorrow.

I have finally managed to upload our Kauai photos as well which can be found at http://www.worldisround.com/articles/337332/index.html

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Old Oct 8th, 2007, 07:46 AM
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Simply fantabulous!
 
Old Oct 8th, 2007, 02:33 PM
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Great, can't wait to read more, thanks.
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Old Oct 8th, 2007, 03:15 PM
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I'm loving your report -- and the pictures are fantastic. That rainbow on the Kalalau trail is INCREDIBLE!!!
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Old Oct 8th, 2007, 04:20 PM
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Mahalo optimystic. Beautiful report and photos. And, I agree with Songdoc about that gorgeous rainbow. Wow!!
 
Old Oct 8th, 2007, 05:12 PM
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What a great report! My husband and I went to Hawaii this summer and saw many of the same places. Your pictures are fantastic! It makes me want to go back. I told my husband we will go back for our 10th Anniversary. 5 years and 9 months to go...
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Old Oct 8th, 2007, 10:28 PM
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mahalo optimystic

loving your trip report so far (and photos)...sounds like you had a fabulous honeymoon!!!

just got back from kauai myself, but dying to hear more of your experiences
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Old Oct 9th, 2007, 03:09 AM
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Thanks everyone for your comments! That rainbow was amazing... and more amazingly actually the only one we saw the whole trip (even though we definitely saw more rain than just that shower). I'll talk more about the Kalalau trail (where the rainbow was!) later.

HANALEI continued...

As we stayed there, we obviously spent a lot of time in Hanalei. We spent a lot of our week just relaxing on the beach there and chilling out and I think on a couple of days we didn't even get in the car. That's the way it should be in my opinion. Someone had written in the cottage guestbook "Get out da car!" and I couldn't agree more!

Our house was right in the middle of the bay at Pinetrees Beach Park, towards the west of Hanalei, about a 10 minute walk along Weke to town. Pinetrees is also known as something else I think but I can't remember the name right now! It a few minutes walk to Hanalei Pavilion and a couple of times we walked all the way to the pier.

The surf really changed alot while we were there. When we arrived it was very calm and great for swimming. Within a couple of days, a small north swell came in and the waves picked up a little. On a couple of days there were some surfers out in the middle of the bay (there always seemed to be surfers to the east of the bay off Princeville Hotel). The waves had a great tubular quality although they were fairly small. Small does not mean weak however - they were strong. The biggest day, I went in, took one wave and was almost pummelled to oblivion!!! Well maybe not that bad, but they certainly pack some force. On the other days, we had a lot of fun boogie boarding and managed to pick up some bodysurfing. In fact I am quite proud of the fact I taught Andy how to do it (although the first time I did it, happened quite by accident!).

Hanalei town is quite charming. There are many shops and restaurants. We particularly liked getting some shave ice in the afternoon and watching in the world go by. It is quite busy with people passing through on their drive of the north shore.

We had dinner every night in town. Yes its expensive. I was pretty shocked by the prices in comparison to Waikiki, and London! In the supermarkets at Hanalei and Princeville the price of bread is quite staggering. More expensive than London, and thats taking into account the exchange rate!


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Old Oct 9th, 2007, 03:22 AM
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Anyway, Hanalei restaurants from the expensive to slightly less expensive (prices are for two, usually with one alcoholic drink each, one main course and sharing an appetiser or dessert, and including tax and tip):

Bar Acuda. Very memorable but its not cheap - $118. Tapas, so they serve (very) small plates - we got five (could have eaten more - but we did do the Kalalau trail that day). The scallops were amazing but theres only two on the plate! We got two desserts and they were fabulous. Highly recommend the peach ice icream with walnut shortbread. Possibly our favourite meal. Friendly service.

Hanalei Dolphin $95. We enjoyed it here but the service is too quick (!) and our server seemed bored. But we enjoyed the food and setting. We both had the Teriyaki Ahi which was gorgeous. I also enjoyed the seafood chowder.

Sushi & Blues $89/$72 The only place in Hanalei we went to twice. Once we dined off the main courses (I had coconut shrimp and Andy had steak) and second time we took the plunge with sushi for the first time (an experience!). We enjoyed the atmosphere here, friendly service that is not too quick, but not slow either! Great view of the mountains both times from our table at the railing.

Kalypso $73. We enjoyed our table at the railing but the food is pretty so-so.

Hanalei Gourmet $65 We were confused by the name here! Its not really `gourmet'! In the UK, its prices, food and setting would place it in the category of 'gastro-pub'. Andy had fish and chips and I had scallops. We were both impressed and finished off with Kauai Pie - yummy! Very friendly, informal atmosphere - definitely one of our most enjoyable meals. Great value for Hanalei! We probably would have gone back if we'd had more time in Kauai!

Panda's kitchen We went here for lunch once. They do plate lunch type food and we enjoyed it. I had Kalua pork and cabbage (good) and Andy had orange chicken. We particularly liked sitting at the front watching Hanalei happen.

For breakfast: We also went out for breakfast each day (usually we packed lunch). There are basically three options for brekkie:

Polynesia Cafe Andy's favourite - and I enjoyed it too. Well-cooked, not greasy, Andy usually had the surfer sandwich and I had the traditional breakfast of eggs, hash browns and toast. Service can be slow depending on how busy it is. One morning we had a fun time evesdropping on a couple of surfer dudes ranting over the superferry.

Java Kai My favourite because I like a fruity breakfast and I loved their Kauai waffle with papaya, banana and macadamia nuts, mmmm! Also like their fruit smoothies.

Hanalei Wake-Up Cafe Your usual breakfast menu. We went here on our first morning but didn't go back. My food was a little burnt and greasy (I'm fussy!) and we ended up preferring JK and PC.

For Shave Ice I have to recommend Paradise Shave Ice. I am only sorry we only went there on the last day! When I dream of Hanalei, I also dream of their shave ice with strawberry, passion orange and coconut syrups and macadamia nut ice cream! My only criticism is theres only one size, and not enough of it!! We also enjoyed shave ice at Polynesia Cafe.

Still to come...an overview of our experience at some North Shore sights, our Kalalau trail adventure, and a day trip to Waimea Canyon
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Old Oct 9th, 2007, 05:20 AM
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chillin in Hanalei...ain't nuthin better! Thanks for the great report and pictures!
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Old Oct 9th, 2007, 04:03 PM
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iamq, help! I'm in a bahd way man! al this optimystic trip reporting has me jonesing something bad - and mrlani left me home alone with credit cards!

Great continuation! Funny about Hanalei Gourmet!!! Never thought about it but it sure aint gourmet in the Julia Child way!!!

Carry on!

And bluefan - get of your akahine and start talking story already.....just back.....arrrrgh.

I'm in a baaaad baaaaaad way!!!! Gettin the Hanalei cold sweat and shakes comin on......
 


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