emalloy

Vt,
Do take the time to drive down the Colonial pky to Yorktown. The area along the river has changed so much that you would hardly recognize it.

Ackislander

If you run out of things to see in Williamsburg, the Museum at Wiilliam & Mary has an exhibit that is soon moving on to the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston.

I also recommend the museum at Jamestown. The colonial reenactment was meh, but the museum is really about the social history of early Virgina and well worth the admission.

In Gordonsville, the Barbecue Exchange is excellent. A Culinary Institute of America graduate returned home to do Virginia BBQ right. Power company workers join the horsey set for lunch. Just look for pickups parked next to Mercedes.

Vttraveler

Is there anywhere you would recommend for lunch along the river area in Yorktown?

I am beginning to regret scheduling the time farther west rather than staying in the Williamsburg area, but my husband really wanted to see Montpelier.

obxgirl

Suggestions:

Riverwalk Restaurant = full menu and bar, nice views, priciest of the three

Yorktown Pub = Local institution, burgers and pub fare

Carrot Tree Kitchens = lighter lunch food plus pies & cakes (there is also one in Wmbg on the road to Jamestown, aptly named Jamestown Rd)

obxgirl

I think you won't regret going to Monpelier.

They have a charming and very good cafe.

Birdie

You're going to find that the Abby Aldrich has been moved into the same building as the DeWitt Wallace Museum so don't look for it in that charming building next to the Inn. I don't think Great Hopes is going to require a big chunk of time. It's just to the side of the main part of CW and not in a large separate location like Carter's Grove was.

I agree with emalloy's suggestion to drive the parkway. It's beautiful. Our dogwoods are just coming out so maybe they'll still be here for your trip. If it's a beautiful day in Yorktown, you'll want to eat outside facing the river. Riverwalk has outside tables but Water St Grille next door also offers them and has good food, plus a great beer list (flights!) The pub is a great dive bar with windows facing the river.

Williamsburg now has a botanical garden which, I'm ashamed to say, I have not seen. It might be worth stopping on your way down Rt. 5 to the plantations.

http://www.williamsburgbotanicalgard...29574082046747

Next to Shirley Plantation, there is a winery that offers a very nice lunch overlooking the river.

Depending on your schedule and if gardens are a priority, you might want to visit the Lewis Ginter Botanical Gargen in Richmond on your way to Gordonsville.

Just remember that even when there are gates, you're allowed to walk through CW gardens so don't forget to go behind the houses and don't just admire them from the front. Check the CW schedule to make sure the buildings you want to see are open on the day you plan to visit.

Montpelier is lovely. Restaurant Pomme in Gordonsville is very good.

As I mentioned, the Botticellis at the Muscarelle have, unfortunately, already left. It was a beautiful exhibition and I'm happy I was able to see it. If anyone has the chance to see it in Boston, I encourage them to do so.

Enjoy your trip. We'll try and arrange some good weather for you.

Vttraveler

Thanks so much for all the additional info, Birdie, Ackislander and obxgirl and for anything you can do to influence the weather gods. It snowed a little overnight here so we are hungry for some nice spring days.

I know I will enjoy seeing Montpelier again, too. I was there in 2010 and really enjoyed the beautiful area.I know that work on the site has continued, too. I am hoping we can see the Gilmore Cabin and Freedmans Farm since we will be there on the weekend. We are also hoping to do a Garden Week tour nearby on Sunday 4/23 before starting north.

I mentioned on the WFD thread that I just learned that my paternal great-great-great-great- grandfather was born in Culpepper, VA. I never knew we had anyone in the family from VA so will have to research this further.

Underhill

So you might end up as a First Family of Virginia?

Vttraveler

I don't know when the family first got to VA, but this ancestor fought in the revolution so apparently I could join the DAR

Vttraveler

We are back from our trip and really enjoyed our time at CW and in Gordonsville. We think we will be returning next spring to see some of the many things we missed.

The tip about Aromas in CW was very useful. We had a very good breakfast there last Thursday and then returned for lunch (easy to do via the shuttle) when we wanted a quick meal and the Raleigh Tavern Bakery had a long line.
We ended up spending time in the Northern Neck (Stratford Hall) and didn't make it to Yorktown this trip.

We did drive along both the Colonial Parkway and the James plantation route. We had a nice picnic at the Lewis, Jr. park and a lovely time at Westover where we were the only people touring the grounds. My husband was quite excited to see the great bike path along the river and will definitely want to have a bike with him on our next trip.

We ate at the Exchange Cafe at Montpelier twice (once in the middle of our Garden Week tour, once when we were visiting the site). The chef is the same person who owns the BBQ Exchange.

One of the few disappointments (aside from the So Many Things to Do/So Little Time problem) was the fact that Great Hopes plantation was closed--no interpreters, no information--with no warning to this effect from CW. A woman at the visitor's center said CW had reduced staff and all the people who worked at Great Hopes were reassigned elsewhere.

emalloy

Sounds like a very nice trip to a lovely part of the world. Thanks for reporting back.

Birdie

Thanks for checking back in. I'm sorry that Great Hopes Plantation was closed especially since that was a primary focus of your trip. CW has a new president who has instituted quite a few changes, some less popular than others. The history of slavery in Virginia is sadly, largely ignored.

We love our Capitol Bike path that runs from Jamestown to Richmond. If you come in May next year, there are some good biking events. Let us know when you come again!

I hope you had a nice gtg with your husband's professor.

Underhill

Where's Waldo?

Vttraveler

Birdie--I agree that the history of slavery is largely ignored and that this makes touring different historic sites frustrating. CW did have a few exhibits that explored slavery (Randolph House, a small exhibit on African American religion) but Montpelier did a much better job. They have walking tours focusing on the topic and are working on a new exhibit that will open in June. I understand that tours at Monticello also mention Sally Hemmings now. We will have to go back there on our next trip.

We did have a nice visit with my husband's professor/friend but it was sad because his dementia is quite advanced.

JanetKMR

We think we will be returning next spring to see some of the many things we missed.
___
Yay!! Like seeing me and Birdie You could see her on one end of the bike path and me on the other!

Vttraveler

Yes, a southern VA gtg is definitely in order.

Also, I wanted to make it clear that many historic sites in the north are also pretty bad at dealing with the subject of slavery.

Birdie

When Carter's Grove was affiliated with CW, there was a good re-creation of a southern plantation slave cabin and lifestyle on the grounds. That, of course, ended when Carter's Grove was sold. Our former governor, Doug Wilder has, for years, tried to get funding for a slave museum in Virginia.

Vttraveler

I remember when CW was first planning the Carter's Grove site. It is too bad they have lost that and virtually closed Great Hope.

This summer we have to get over to see the exhibit on the Underground Railroad at a farm called Rokeby here in VT.

Vttraveler

I should mention for others who may be planning a trip to CW that we stayed 2 nights at the Market Square Tavern, one of the CW colonial buildings right on Duke of Gloucester street, and really enjoyed the location and charm of the room--possibly one where Jefferson slept! The ghost tours seem to depart from the courtyard right below our window but I didn't think to go down and hear their spiel.
http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn...090202217.html

obxgirl

Thanks for your trip report, Vttraveler! Sounds like a fun time. I think it's always good news when you want to return to see more of what a place has to offer.

I'm sorry your husband's friend/professor is not well -- a W&M person?

Separate issue: I think CW badly mismanaged Carter's Grove from the day it became the Foundation's ugly stepchild through its bungled and somewhat less than transparent sale to Halsey Minor.

The construction of the slave quarters on the CG site was vague lip service to increasing African American visitor-ship to CW but was never really given priority or the visibility it deserved. You'd have thought CG was 800 miles, not 8 miles, from the main restored area.

Sounds like Great Hopes got a similar treatment.

At least Carter's Grove is in good hands now even if, sadly, the house and historic grounds are off view from the public.

All JMO of course.