This is the second edition of our doings while on a month-long visit to Oahu. Click on my user name and you should be able to find part one if you want to read it.

Sunday 7/8
DH did a hike in the Honouliuli Preserve in the Waianae Range on the west side. It is part of the Campbell estate and is only open via a guided hike with the Nature Conservancy once a month (book in advance, $10). It sounded more strenuous than it was. He said it was very cool and high up so good views of the island. DS and I stayed home and did laundry and other housekeeping. We all went to the beach when DH got home.

We went to Chai’s Island Bistro in the Aloha Tower for dinner – a quick 25 minutes over the Pali and straight down to the water’s edge. A cruise ship was in port – DS was amazed how large it was! There were some cute shops at the Aloha Tower that have to go back and check out. The area was really pretty all lit up at night.

Chai’s is very nice – wonderful service too. We did valet parking which was free with validation. No menu specials other than a fish substitution. We had a coupon for 2 entrees for 1 from Oahu Gold. DH had the corn chowder and sea bass, I had the salad and tenderloin (cooked absolutely perfectly) and DS had the Tiger Prawn appetizer (3 shrimp) which was spectacular! They were huge, crusted in mac nuts, wrapped in some kind of thin noodle and then skewered vertically in a slab of pineapple. DS was thrilled! He loved them – said they were so good he’d even pay for part of them with his own money! (We didn’t take him up on that.)

The main reason we went was to listen to Robi Kahakalau (and 2 of her “friends” who played wonderful guitar and bass and sang too) – started more towards 7 than 6:30 and said they’d be there for a few hours. We left after the first set, about 8:20. Beautiful voice, played mostly Hawaiian songs (none of the Jawaiian rhythms she used to be into). It was wonderful! I would have liked to stay but DS was getting antsy. He can only behave well in a fancy place for so long!

I checked email when we got hom and found one from Scott of Mokolua Guides about the critter DS had found on the island. Scott researched it – there is a Sea Hare very like it but it only maxes out at 1.5 inches and this one was more like 3 or 4. So it may indeed be something new! Scott hasn’t seen it again on his last couple of trips but will take a photo next time and his invertebrate scientist buddies will research it further. How cool! And very nice of him to contact us.

Monday July 9, 2007

We headed out about 8:45 for the 9:30 Chinatown tour. No problem finding our way to the parking garage on Maunakea (between Hotel and King) that was recommended in the Revealed book. We found 42 N King Street just fine but apparently the Chinese Chamber of Commerce has moved to 76 N King Street (next block over – room 202). We showed up a few minutes after 9:30 – the receptionist called Anthony Chang (aka Pake Pork Chop) who showed up about 5 minutes later. We signed the ledger, paid $10 each and got a printed paper of the interesting locations and a map of China. Mr Chang sat us down around a table and explained what areas of China people seemed to migrate from (near the Pearl River – lots of spicy influences from other areas). After a while, two other people joined us, a mother and son from Massachusetts. Then we took off.

We walked a few blocks in all directions. Started at the edge near the theater, walked through restaurants (seems he knows all the restaurant people), in a gallery (not unreasonably priced stuff) and then we hit the real stuff. More restaurants, explaining each one’s style, specialities, region. We picked up menus. His grandfather was in Mei Sum – pretty old guy! Went into char siu places (and saw tongues and intestines!), a meat market (with all kinds of innards), noodle factories, manapua stores. Heard some history of the area. Very interesting but we were hungry! He should charge a few dollars more so we could get a few bites to eat! Even DS wanted to go back to eat and I saw a few shops to check out.

Unfortunately we had to peel off from the tour about ½ hour short so we could get to the Makani Catamaran ride in time. It didn’t take too long to get there (and I saw the Superferry in port). The Makani is gorgeous. There were maybe 30 or so people on board. Lunch was a bunch of croissants with various fillings baked in – turkey dogs (some had mustard or ketchup already in them), ham and cheese, plain cheese. Not a lite lunch at all. Some potato salad, cookies etc. For drinks they had Heineken on tap, and a special Mai Tai (Tidal Wave) that was tasty with plenty of rum in it. Plenty of room to move around, clean boat. DS headed straight for the nets in the front. Another kid was there too, about his age, and they both got pretty wet as we headed into the wind. A lot of people were in the front of the boat at the beginning of the trip but by the end most were in back. Not us! It was a great day to sail – plenty of wind, light chop on the water. Huge sail, motor cut as soon as we cleared Kewalo Basin. We went to Diamond Head then back to almost Aloha Tower. A very nice ride!

Simple dinner at home on the grill.

Tuesday July 10, 2007
It was raining in the morning. DH walked on the beach and saw a few box jellies. We decided to drive up Tantalus, taking a picnic lunch up there. DS wanted to see a box jelly so we parked first at the beach and walked down a ways but no jellies (DH brought one home later in the day). We stopped at all the overlooks on the Pali Highway in both directions. DS loved the wind at the Pali Overlook. There were quite a few cars in the lot and we had to wait for a spot. It is easier to get to heading to Kailua than away (longish but pretty side road). The Pali overlook is really the only one you need to stop at. The one coming into Kailua is pretty overgrown so it’s not worth stopping. The big rock at the first stoplight in Kailua (Auloa Road) is a memorial to Windward people killed in WW II.

We had heard on the news that part of Round Top road is still closed due to a landslide last year. I found the story on the web and found that the blockage is toward the end of Round Top. If you’re driving there from the Pali Highway it is a bit tricky to find Tantalus; on the map it looks like the roads intersect but really it is an overpass. Follow the signs to Punchbowl.

After getting on Tantalus there was a really neglected cemetery. Then the houses got much nicer up the hill, many built on stilts. It is a pretty drive, very jungly. There are some nice overlooks on the way up where vegetation has been cleared. Some of the leaves are huge! We stopped for lunch at Pu’u Ualaka’a State Wayside. There are a couple of picnic tables up there. Cooler up there, no bugs, light breeze. We saw signs for trails but no idea where they go. Looked dense and buggy. We followed the signs in the park to the view point. This is worth stopping at – very wide range view of the island. From there we went back the way we came, driving through Punchbowl.

DH took Auloa Road in Kaiula on the way back and we explored the roads of Maunawili. He is scouting trailheads I think,

Lazy afternoon – dinner at home.

Wed July 11, 2007

Harry Potter and the Order of the Phoenix Day! DS and I dropped DH off at the trailhead for the Maunawili hike. He thought the 10 miles would take him about as long as the movie.

We had already gotten our tix for the movie – got to the Windward Mall a little after 9. (Saw a Leonard’s Malasada truck in the parking lot.) DS got seats (great ones too!) while I waited for food. I wasn’t really hungry for popcorn but it always smells so good! They seem to use real butter too. The theater wasn’t packed like it would have been at home. The movie was good – well paced but a lot cut out. Entertaining but not exactly a light-hearted movie.

Called DH (a little after noon) and he’s only about halfway through! He thought he’d be done between 2 and 2:30 He took a side trail to the falls but it’s just slower going than he thought. No problem – DS and I did the GID mini-golf (short holes, kinda fun, not too challenging). I think the one in Waikiki sounds more fun so maybe we’ll try that sometime.

DH called a little after 2 and we drove to Waimanolo to fetch him. What a dirty mess he was! He fell at one point and gashed his shin. Took a bunch of photos of it! It did look like a pretty hike but way too long for my taste.

We crashed for a while then went to the beach. The wind and waves were up a fair amount. DS had fun in the waves.

Dinner at home.

Thurs July 12, 2007
Up and out early (6:45) to catch the Outrigger Snorkel/Sail that DH had booked. Not really much traffic around at that hour. Much more sun when we got over the Pali. Parked at Ft De Russy - $6 if in by 8 and out by 6pm. Not too bad for down there.

I had my big blue IKEA bag stuffed with towels, my mask and snorkel, purse, cameras, blue book etc. DH had his back pack with our dry clothes. The boat arrived about 7 – simple cat, no bathroom aboard or below decks. Jim put his back pack in the dry box (which was already overflowing) so I put our bag under the seats.

Everyone was told to sit on the mesh in front until we got going. Got the usual safety etc talk. Jay was pretty good, kept it funny. We passed the reef and pretty much stopped right there at a turtle cleaning station – in about 30’ of water. Good visibility. Some coral out there and a bunch of black fish, some yellow and a few others here and there. We saw several turtles. No fins given out so it was hard to dive down but the boat guys offered to take our cameras for close up shots. A few dive boats showed up later. We got to snorkel for about an hour. DS got cold quickly and went back on the boat (he wasn’t the only one).

After we stopped snorkeling, we motored out a little further then the sails came out. A lot of people sat on the mesh (DS and me, but not DHm) and it was wild! Really WET! Just soaked from the front, side, below, you name it! It was fun though, like a white water roller coaster ride. DH even got a soaking at one point which got our bag a bit wet. Nothing got damaged but our blue book is a bit wrinkled.

We went around Diamond Head. On the way back a boat came by with an octopus in a bucket for all to see and touch. They returned it to the dive area. It was a really fun ride – discounts given for repeat rides. Maybe we’ll do a sunset ride.

Took showers outside the Outrigger then used their nice public bathrooms to change. Walked by the new Trump condos under construction on the way back to the car.

We drove along Ala Moana to Hilo Hatties. I’d been itching to go there! Didn’t really buy so much though. Prices seemed high. I didn’t find anything good in the clearance section but it was fun to look. Sometimes you win, sometimes not so much.

Next stop, Chinatown for lunch. We parked at the same place and found Mei Sum ok. We had 2 fried shrimp things, 2 char siu bao, chicken manaupa (had to order it), pot stickers, spring rolls. Nothing too adventurous. It was tasty, not too expensive and English-friendly. Not a real wide selection on the carts (it’s a small place) but you can also order off the menu. We walked around the block and I went to the Rainbow Hawaii Muumuu factory where I got a new dress for our hula group performances. They were pretty reasonably priced but of course I liked one of the more expensive ones!

Next stop, Kimi’s bead shop. Prices weren’t that good but I got a few things. We walked around some more (getting hot) and DS got some Look Fun (shrimp, out of Char Siu), then we went to Penny’s (in Oahu Market) for Pineapple-Papaya ice to cool off DS. It was very refreshing and only $2.50. Just fruit and ice.

Blasted the AC in the car – and headed back over the Pali. Hung out for a while then headed over to the farmers market and dinner. DH got some food (shrimp scampi over linguine – so so) and I got mini imu kalua pig on rice, corn chowder for DS. For dessert, cream puffs filled with Haupia and topped with chocolate and mac nuts (real ono!)

Fri July 13, 2007
The guys went on the Olomana hike with our host’s brother and his 9 year old son.

I hung around and did laundry and housekeeping. I went to Global Village (got some good beads) and Safeway. I finished “A Little Too Much is Enough” by Kathleen Tyau. It’s about growing up on Oahu as a pake/Hawaiian girl. I enjoyed it more than Makai (same author). I had been keeping “West of Then” in paperback for the beach but I’ll just start reading it now. On Sat we’ll be into Harry Potter full time!

The guys got back in the mid afternoon. My two guys make it to the top of the first Olomana peak – it had been raining and it was pretty narrow and steep up there. The kids used a harness and a rope to get up the rocky areas. They went back down off the first peak while the other two continued to the second and third. Beach time, then dinner at home.

Sat July 14, 2007
It was also gray and threatening to rain, supposedly all over the island but who cares? We packed up snorkel gear and clothes, food and headed north. It rained a fair amount most the way up but stopped by the time we got to Kahuku. The guys ate at Romy’s (I had a PB sandwich since I don’t like seafood). DS got steamed shrimp – about 12 of the big buggahs, in all their glory of shells, eyes, feelers and legs. He worked pretty hard at undoing them. JDS did some for him and ate some too. DS had garlic prawns. They had shells but no heads at least. Both guys were pretty happy. It took a while to get the food (it was about 11 am) but nice clean tables and shade to eat under. There was a shrimp fishing pond you could try out. Seems like a hard way to get em.

We stopped for Kahuku corn and then continued to Turtle Bay and Kulima Cove to snorkel. Parking was 30 minutes complimentary, $5 and hour after that unless you bought something. Easy beach access. We set up and DH hung out digesting while DS and I went in. Not real clear water and not a ton of fish but it was fun anyway. Lots of coral and rocks for the fish to hide in. I saw a bunch of different kinds including 3 little humus. When I came in, DH was out. It started to rain, then stopped, then started again and so on. We gave up after almost an hour. On the way out, DH told the gate girl that he had bought an ocean villa but forgot to get the ticket validated. She said “that’s all right” and let us pass without paying!

There have been some articles in the paper about building additional hotels at Turtle Cove. Starwood dropped out. People have picketed.

RJ changed into dry clothes and didn’t want to go to anymore beaches. We drove ahead, stopped at Teds for a piece of chocolate haupia pie to share. All three of us liked it but I thought the chocolate overpowered the haupia.

Stopped to look at a few beaches – still kinda rainy off and on. Found Shark’s Cove and we’ll definitely go back there. There is a sandy beach part on the left and a big area that seems fairly shallow, some sandy areas too. Then the main park is still a big cove and plenty of people snorkeling. Can’t wait! Nice bathrooms too (just reopened after remodeling.)

On to Haleiwa and shave ice. The usual long lines at Matsumotos so we went to Aoki’s. One of these days I’ll have to try M’s. Very fine ice – really tasty.

We left town and headed mauka. Didn’t stop at Dole – clouds made it cooler but still raining off and on and the parking lot was packed. Took 99 to H2 then H3 to Kaneohe. We headed for Manny’s Huli Huli stand at St Mark’s church on Kam Hwy just north of Kaneohe Bay Drive. We had to wait a bit but got a whole bird for $8. We ate it when we got home (4pm). A bit underdone but tasty. DS even loved it. It was a good day for eating!

A hui hou,
Kim

Mahalo kimr!

I am loving reading your report! Only two more weeks left!

What is the vrbo # of the place you are renting?

Great trip report! Thanks for taking the time to write. Almost feel like I am there...

Your trip report is just great. Right there with you. Thanks for the details.

iamq, if you have time you should take the Tantalus Drive and go up to the wayside that kimr describes. It's beautiful.

thanks, kimr!

great report on your 2nd wk there kim. mahalo.

i also appreciate hearing about your husband's adventures. he sounds a lot like me

I'2,
We won't have a car, so I would have to sweet talk Melissa into taking us up there. Maybe if I increase her tip to be two "I Love Kaua'i" halter tops she'd do it. See the gtg thread if that remark makes no sense.

Kim, you know that Chai's is at my mall, right? Dang! I should have joined you that night! Here are some coupons, fodorites tell me our stuff is way cheaper than hilo hatties:
http://alohatower.com/promotions.html

So wait...Pakeporkchop said his grandfather was in Mei Sum? both our grandfathers have been dead for decades. Maybe he meant someone else's grandfather?

bill....I can take you up Tantalus! We can jog it....5 miles up and 5 miles down with some wild pigs along the way. hee hee. So the halter is my tip??? I thought I got a tip if I drove with my top down?

Hi Melissa,

I didn't know you worked at the Tower until I got your email that night! Oh well, another excuse to go back.

I sure thought Anthony Chang said it was his grandfather there - certainly was an old guy and he went over and talked to him.

Kimr, thanks for the great trip report. We are hoping to go for two months next summer so our kids can attend a couple of summer school classes. I grew up on Oahu, but moved away many years ago! Can you share how you found the cottage on the vrbo? I am not familiar with the process, but very interested in learning.
Make sure you get to Matsumoto's Shave Ice on the north shore! It's the best! Looking forward to next week's report.

Odyssey4 - vrbo is fairly straight forward, sorted by areas of the island and then you can sort by the number of bedrooms. I just read them all (and read between the lines somewhat) then called or emailed and asked questions to the ones that looked best to me. I started this about 10 months in advance because the good places go fast, especially if you want to stay for a long time in prime tourist season of summer or winter. Don't be afraid to ask for a monthly rate even if one isn't listed. Some places won't give you a break though.

I paid $3500 for the month for this place and that seemed to be the best deal I could find in Kailua. I have certain criteria for what we need in a rental: proximity to a nice swimming beach, 2 br (preferably with a King), access to laundry and grill, cable tv, full kitchen, ceiling fans in all rooms (no need for ac in most areas), parking. Again, read trip reports to see what others have encountered (the fans thing was something I learned from some one else's negative experience!

What a wonderful summer next year that you have to look forward to!

Kim


I would highly recommend our place - not perfect but very liveable. The hosts are wonderful too! If you read the thread from the first

Kimr- thanks for the info. It seems a little overwhelming when I look through all the listings. Could you share the vrbo number for your cottage? I prefer a solid recommendation. The price is at about what I thought we would have to spend per month. Wireless internet, laundry and fans all sound great to me as well. I am a bit jealous- it sounds like you are having such a great time! I miss it!

odyssey4 - email me at [email protected]

Kim