Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > United States
Reload this Page >

Oahu-Kauai trip report: Feb. 7-21

Search

Oahu-Kauai trip report: Feb. 7-21

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Mar 5th, 2006, 06:57 PM
  #21  
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 257
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
keep going hikerboy,,,i am so loving your report...great job!!!
visormom is offline  
Old Mar 6th, 2006, 08:41 AM
  #22  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Saturday, we were up early again. In fact, home for us is Atlantic Standard Time, which is 6 hours ahead of Hawaii Time. (7 hours during daylight savings) We used this to our advantage by continuing to arise early throughout the trip.

I dashed out to pick up a couple of pineapples and replenish our supply of guava nectar and then we headed back to Aloha stadium for the swap meet and Pro Bowl Ohana Day which included practices and drills by the AFC and NFC teams, and lots of hoopdela by the cheerleaders and mascots. There was a definite festive feel in the air.

On Wednesday, Peg had bought a floral sun dress that she decided she didn't care for, and we searched for the stall where she had bought it to see if we could exchange. Alas, we discovered that most of the vendors are regulars but they do not necessarily set up in the identical place each time. (The swap meet runs 3 times each week, Wed, Sat & Sun.).
We had just about given up when we came upon the woman we were looking for, and she happily exchanged the dress, and helped Peg pick out one that was much more to her liking. She was a lovely woman with a good sense of humor. There are great bargains here on Aloha shirts, sundresses sarongs and t-shirts. Check out the many vendors before purchasing to make sure of your choice. You will see t-shirts at 8 for $20 and also 5 for $20. I recommend the 5/$20 for the better quality, and look for the embroidered rather than the stencilled ones. They also had some nice long-sleeved tees.

Next stop was the Iolani Palace and the state house, with the impressive statue of King Kamehameha in gilded headdress out front. The palace is the only Royal Palace on US soil, and well worth a visit. The volunteer staff are very knowledgeable and eager to share all they know with you.

We were ready to crank back the pace a bit, so we spent the afternoon on Kailua Beach lolling about, swimming, and just really enjoying the beautiful tropical setting---trying not to gloat too much about those poor rascals back home toughing it out in the cold and the wind and the snow. That would just not be right.

We chose Pah Ke chinese restaurant for dinner, in the town of Kaneohe. It was a great place, bustling with lots of Chinese families and a few haoles like us, with wonderful service and delicious food. We had spring rolls, a couple of platters with noodles, seafood, and chicken.
Desserts here are highly recommended, and we chose a soy custard with fresh fruit that was heavenly (don't be put off by the thought of the soy custard, it was great!) and a macadamia nut cream with lychee and fresh fruit.

Sunday, the sunrise was beautiful and we made our way to the southeast corner of the island and the Makapu'u Lighthouse trail. This trail is about 2 miles at most, and it's paved all the way since there used to be a road for the lighthouse keeper, before the light was automated. There are great views along the trail and at the top (see my pictures at the link above). We saw lots of humpback whales off shore and we could hear them blowing and slapping their dorsal fins and their tails.

We headed west to Hamauma Bay for a couple of hours of sunning and snorkeling. This bay is a collapsed caldera, sort of like Santorini on a smaller scale and with a shallower bottom. The variety of the fish was greater and it's a well managed and beautiful site (closed Tues).

We drove down the hill from Hanauma to Hawaii Kai to gas up at the huge shopping center. There is a Kona Brewing Company restaurant there, with a beautiful lanai on the bay where we stopped for lunch. We noticed black clouds on the hillside across the bay and remarked on this to the waitress who assured us they would blow by without incident. It began to sprinkle a bit, and about 3 minutes later it was pouring buckets. We dashed inside for cover and finished our lunch at the bar. By the time we finished, the "shower" had passed.

We did some window shopping in Kailua, and in the evening headed into Honolulu to the Hawaii Theater for Halau I Ka Wekiu (a traditional hula school) and a show that featured traditional and contemporary Hawaiian mele (music), oli (chant) and hula (dance).
We opted to do this rather than a luau, and were happy about our choice. You can check the theater web site if you are interested in shows that might be playing during your visit: http://www.hawaiitheatre.com/

After the show, we joined our friends for a quiet, relaxing dinner on the dock at the Waikiki Yacht Club.

February 13.
We were really psyched, as this was the morning of the much-anticipated Chinatown Culinary Tour with PakePorkChop, followed by the Fodor's GTG luncheon at Mei Sum Dim Sum. It was all we had hoped it would be, and more! See this link for a full report on the morning, including versions by Toni, Lcuy, me and PakePorkChop himself!
http://fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=1

After bidding farewell to our Fodor's friends, we visited the Foster Botanical Garden which is a fascinating place and a serene oasis of beauty and grace in the middle of a bustling Honolulu. There is a lovely Buddhist temple abutting the garden which was unfortunately closed by the time we finished touring the garden, so we were unable to visit it, and we were a little disappointed.

Next, we hit the Aloha Tower Marketplace. Cruise ships tie up at the pier here, and the Waikiki dinner cruises depart from the local wharves. There are some interesting shops and restaurants. We went up the tower for the excellent views. When we came down, we spotted Toni and her posse at a distance. We had tentative plans to meet MelissaHI at Don Ho's Island Grill in the Marketplace and we thought Toni might be headed that way.

At Don Ho's, we looked around for Melissa and enquired about her with the hostess and the bartender. No luck. We later learned that Melissa had gotten so absorbed in her work and all the pressure of hosting Pro Bowl activities, that the thought of our rendez-vous slipped her mind entirely.

We watched as dinner cruisers were greeted on the wharf by hula dancers, and then, after a full and tiring day, we headed back home and had a lovely dinner at the Assagio Italian restaurant in Kailua. The minestrone was disappointing, but everything else was delicious and the portions were generous, which I especially like. Play hard, and eat hardy!

hikerboy is offline  
Old Mar 6th, 2006, 11:52 AM
  #23  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Feb. 14. Happy Valentine's day! It was showery off and on all day. We went to Ho'omaluhia Gardens in the morning. This is an enchanting, drive-through garden on the windward side, near Kailua. There are different sections with plantings from Africa, Polynesia, Hawaii, etc. You pick up a map at the visitor center and then drive to each of the sections, park your car, and walk through the garden. There are great facilities and several campgrounds, though no one was camping while we were there. Camping may be seasonal, or just on weekends. It's a lovely spot, and we were virtually alone there.
We carried on to the Bishop museum, which houses the greatest collection of Polynesian cultural artifacts anywhere in the world. It's a fascinating place, and the collection is nicely displayed. They offer regular presentations througout the day, and the "Hawaii night sky" show at the planetarium was entertaining and educational at the same time.
That evening, our friends hosted cocktails and dinner at the Waikiki yacht club and we had a great time, meeting their many other interesting friends from Hawaii, CA, AZ, GA, PA, NJ, and Ohio. We were the only Canadians. The food, drink, and fellowship were all great, and the ladies received long stemmed roses and small boxes of chocolates.

On the 15th we went back to Ho'omaluhia Gardens to finish up our tour and then hit the beach again. We had a pretty decent lunch at Buzz's on Kailua beach, then went into Waikiki to the Hawaii Yacht Club to help our friends a bit with decorating for the evening's festivities.

After freshening up, we returned to the club at 6 PM for pupus and drinks, with beautiful slack-key music in the background. It turned out that the guitarist is a minister, and he was also the officiant at the ceremony that followed, just before sunset. He turned out to be an amazing fellow, spritual, friendly, gregarious, and modest, all at the same time. Here's his web site:
kawikakahiapo.com

The renewal-of-voes ceremony was beautiful, very moving, and as the happy couple conclude, the sun was just setting over Waikiki. Priceless!
You can find some pictures here:

http://share.shutterfly.com/action/w...Abt2rVk1aMWLxw

The evening concluded with lots of celebration, a lovely Hawaiian buffet with delicious laulau pork, brisket of beef, ahi sashimi with wasabi, plenty of salads and all the trimmings.

It was a beautiful moment, one that we will remember and treasure always. Things wrapped up early that evening, as we were off to Kauai in the morning, and many of the others were headed to the Big Island.
hikerboy is offline  
Old Mar 7th, 2006, 05:11 PM
  #24  
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 257
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Come on hikerboy...quit teasing me...i'm leaving for Kauai on Friday...3/10...so I can't wait to hear your Kauai report...Write on...write on!!!
visormom is offline  
Old Mar 7th, 2006, 06:39 PM
  #25  
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 440
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
visormom, you may have to take your laptop with you.

8-)
jamaltay is offline  
Old Mar 8th, 2006, 04:55 AM
  #26  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Visormom, you are going to love it!
We were up early, as usual, on the 16th. Took the H-3 into Pearl Harbor and on to the airport, and it was a breeze.

We turned in our car and hopped an earlier flight to Kauai. We used Hawaiian Airlines, and we had booked our flights on-line months earlier, and paid for them. I liked this because it spreads the expenses out and reduces the big "hit" you can sometimes take right after a vacation. We had booked car rentals on the Hawaiian site, as they offered the best rates.

We landed in Lihue after a 25 minute flight, picked up our car at Budget, and headed straight to Hamura's Saimin on Kress Street. It's easy to find, the service was good and the food was very wholesome and satisfying.

We are simple rural folk, not as sophisticated and cosmopolitan as many on this board, so we had to humbly request forks in lieu of the chopsticks, or risk going hungry. We watched others and took their cue, mixing hot mustard and soy in the little dish provided, dipping the noodles in the mixture and then eating them with the assistance of the accompanying spoon. The "special" saimin was delicious, and we ordered beef and chicken skewers to go with it, followed by the liliko'i pie. It was all delicious, highly recommended.
It wasn't till later that I realized I had forgotten Bill's tip about ordering the fried wontons! (not on the menu). So visormom, don't forget the wontons. I also forgot to take a picture of the pie! (You can see a shot of the saimin in the photos at the site listed above)

We motored down to Kalaheo and found our lodging, the Bamboo Jungle House. This was a beautifully serene oasis, nicely decorated in the plantation house/ jungle motif. The innkeepers are a wonderful couple, Lucy & Terry Ryan, originally from MA. He has been a chef at several first-class inns in Vermont, and it shows. The breakfasts he prepared for us were excellent with fresh fruit, delicious baked goods, strata, scrambled eggs, homemade granola, legendary macadamia nut-banana bread made with those tasty little apple-bananas, and all the trimmings. Lucy and Terry were always helpful in making bookings for activities and dining, and ensuring we got the most out of each day.
The waterfall, pool and lava rock jacuzzi at the B&B added immensely to our enjoyment. http://www.kauai-bedandbreakfast.com/

After settling in, we went to Poipu beach for an afternoon of sunning, swimming and snorkeling.

I should mention that I was torn between buying or renting snorkel gear. I ended up buying a set at Walmart on Oahu, and taking the gear home with me. If you already own gear and don't want to bring it along, then Snorkel Bob's has great rental deals for as low as $9/week. You can also rent on one island and return on another if you are island hopping.

http://snorkelbob.com/cgi-local/Soft...981+1144410530

We went for supper at Keoki's Paradise in the Poipu shopping center. Food and service were good. It's a very busy place with a definite polynesian feel, evening entertainment, and good food. Keoki's is part of a chain that includes the Duke's restaurants on Kauai and in Waikiki
http://www.keokisparadise.com/
hikerboy is offline  
Old Mar 8th, 2006, 08:54 AM
  #27  
bonniebroad
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Hikerboy, you have knocked it out of the park with this trip report! WOW.... I love your photos and your writing. The next time someone thinks Oahu might not be worth visiting, they need to read your report!

Thanks for sharing it all with us. It was *almost* like being there!
 
Old Mar 8th, 2006, 09:20 PM
  #28  
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 440
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
hikerboy.....Hurry, hurry, hurry, visormom leaves the day after tomorrow.
8-)
jamaltay is offline  
Old Mar 8th, 2006, 09:22 PM
  #29  
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 440
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Oops! Make that tomorrow.
8-)
jamaltay is offline  
Old Mar 9th, 2006, 04:21 AM
  #30  
iceeu2
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Yes, hikerboy, give the visormom the best birthday present(today is the day!).....whet her appetite even more for Kauai.

I didn't know about the fried won tons at Hamarua's.....yum,....I swear the DH would eat every meal there or at the BBQ Inn just a couple of doors down from there!

Happy Birthday, Visormom!
 
Old Mar 9th, 2006, 07:16 AM
  #31  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Bonniebroad, thanks for the kind words.
Because of the encouragement of jamaltay and iceeu2, and the eagerness of visormom, I will finish this report today.

Friday, Feb. 17.
Following a lovely breakfast at the B&B, we headed to Waimea Canyon, which Mark Twain called the "grand canyon of the pacific." It certainly does remind you of the grand canyon and though the scale is a little smaller, it is very impressive nonetheless.

Just before entering the town of Waimea, you will see signs on the left directing you to the Russian Fort. This is the ruin (really just a few rocks on the ground) of a fort built by an emmisary of Russia in the early 19th century. It was a time when the US, Russia and other European powers were competing for control the the Hawaiian Islands, due to their strategic location along the trade routes to China and the rest of Asia.

If you are going up into the canyon, you will want to take route 550 and drive to the very end. Your best chance of seeing the Kalalau valley is early in the day, before it clouds in. We didn't do that, of course. There are many lookouts along the way, and we stopped at most of them. When driving, you need to be alert to the winding roads, hairpins curves and gawking drivers in the other cars.

At the Pu'u Ka Pele lookout, you will enjoy great views of the Waipo'o Falls, the canyon walls and the stream below. The parking areas at the lookouts have been taken over by gangs of strutting Kauai roosters, so be careful. The mother hens with their scurrying broods of chicks are very cute. I especially liked the shot I got of a "shy" rooster ( image # 148) at
http://share.shutterfly.com/action/w...Abt2rVk1aMWL5Q

We stopped at the Koke'e Lodge where there is a restaurant, cabins, campground and a small museum. The museum is interesting. It is small enough not to be overwheming or boring and there are intersting displays on the weather of the islands, the impact on Kauai of the hurricanes over the last 20 years, and the flora & fauna of the canyon and the island. I really liked the display of tropical woods, with slabs from various trees that you could pick up and see and feel the differences in density and growth patterns.

With growing excitement, we continued onward and upward to the Kalalau lookout, eager to see this magnificent valley in all its splendor. Just as we alighted form the car, the clouds moved in, thick and soupy. It reminded me of Penobscot Bay on a foggy summer day. The only thing missing was the foghorn! Some fellow adventurers told us that just moments earlier, the skies had opened and they had enjoyed great views of the valley.

Not to be easily discouraged, we struck out on the trail to the Pu'u o Kula lookout, where the view is regarded as being even better. It's an easy 15 minute walk on a paved trail.
Our patience was rewarded and the skies parted. The valley was beautiful indeed and we were thankful to have seen it! (see image #149).

We returned to the car, chatting with a friendly couple from Pttsburgh. They were staying at the Waimea Plantation Cottages, and liked it there. The conversation turned to packing and luggage and we were bemoaning the fact that all of our purchases were goinhg to present a packing problem. They had a great tip for us about plastic packing bags, marketed by American Tourister and available at Walmart or Kmart. You stuff in your clothes, seal the bag and roll it up. This expels the air and compresses the clothes, and it gives you more room in your suitcase. We pciked some up later, and we were very pleased! ($12 for 4 bags).

We descended from the canyon and took 552 whcih joins the the main road (#50)at Kekaha near its beautiful beach. We drove into Waimea, looking to have lunch at the Paradise Pizza & Deli. Being male, I had no intention of asking for directions to this place. Needless to say, we were unable to find it and only later learned that it is right next door to the Wrangle Steak House, which we sptted going by, as it sits prominently on the main drag. We carried on back to Kalaheo and had a pizza at Brick Oven. Being health conscious, we ordered the whole wheat crust, loaded with cured meats and cheese and brushed with butter. Not bad, but the crust was tough and hard to cut. Maybe the white flour crust is a better idea. We noticed that this place is packed nearly all the time.

We went to Lawa'i Beach for the afternoon, near Po'ipu. It is a nice small beach next to the Beach House restaurant, with good snorkeling and swimming. There were a few surfers off shore. I was so engrossed in the marine underworld that I head-butted a fellow snorkeler. That hurt! I'm not sure of the etiquette in such situations, but I say it was his fault, and I'm sticking with that one.

Dazed and confused, we returned to the room to freshen up for the evening. We had reserved at the Hanapepe Cafe. They serve lunch every day, but dinner on Friday night only. Hanapepe has their Artwalk on Friday evenings and all of the many galleries in town are open. One gallery plays "host" each week and offers wine, cheese and snacks to patrons. It's very enjoyable. We had a delicious meal at the cafe and enjoyed the accompanying music. It's BYOB. The Brownakea dessert (see pictures is a macadamia nut brownie with Lappert's coconut ice cream, raspberry coulis, and whipped cream. Very nice. A nice touch in Hanapepe was that each building on main street has a plaque to explain its heritage, with pictures from earlier times.
hikerboy is offline  
Old Mar 9th, 2006, 08:11 AM
  #32  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I took the trouble to correct the typos in the previous posting but unfortunately they did not take! Not the end of the world, I guess.

February 18
We decided this would be a kick-back day. We were scheduled for the Holoholo NaPali sunset cruise, and we had to check in at 2 PM so we opted to go to the beach. Our first choice was Gillin's at the Maha'ulepu beaches, but the weather was looking a bit dicey in the east so we followed the standard advice, which is to head west.

We landed at Kekaha Beach Park, a beautiful beach that fronts right on the main road. There was a smattering of people, but the place was almost deserted. Of course, the first rule of beach behavior is that the next folks to arrive after you will park themselves about 20 feet away. Never fails. We didn't let that deter us, however, and we enjoyed the beautiful water, waves that were perfect for body surfing (good, long break and roll onto the shore, with no pounding into the beach and no sand-in-the-shorts after effect).

We went back and showered and got our stuff for the cruise and headed back to the Port Allen turnoff. There is a McDonald's, a grocery store and a samll strip mall there, and we intended to lunch at Toi's Thai restaurant. Unfortunately, it was closed and there was a sign in the window saying that "hours may vary."

McDonald's didn't appeal but there was a Subway there and we ordered the special seafood sub. Not too bad! We drove down to Port Allen (about 200 yards) and signed in for the cruise. While we were waiting, the local Hula Hulau was putting on a show in the courtyard, and the girls were very charming and quite accomplished. They join the school at as young an age as 3 or 4, and stay with it right on through.

We got our orientation and shoved off from Port Allen at about 2:30, headed for the mysterious NaPali coast. The Holoholo catamaran is the largest on the coast and a good choice in winter, when seas can be high, and there were some pretty big swells that day. The crew was great, and they plied us with drinks and snacks throughout the cruise. The captain gave a most informative running commentary. We saw lots of spinner dolphins and humpback whales, and the captain got us in position to make the most of the sightings. He was skillful in maneuvering us into ideal position to enjoy the majesty of the NaPali coast, and it really was spectacular. Words are scarcely capable of describing the feeling of being there. Have a look at the pictures. A delicious buffet was served on the return trip, and champagne was poured and served at sunset.

We were back on shore as darkness was falling and we headed off directly to the Hyatt in Poipu where Leilani Rivera Bond and her hula troupe perform on Saturday evening. The Hyatt is a gorgeous hotel with a beautiful lobby, and the Seaview Terrace where the show took place is just down the steps from the lobby towards the sea. We couldn't get a table, but were happy to sit on the steps and watch, and we didn't need more drinks after all the food and drink on the cruise. It was a great way to end the day.
hikerboy is offline  
Old Mar 9th, 2006, 09:06 AM
  #33  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Sunday, February 19

Today, we were headed north and west, as far as the road would go. After passing through Lihue on 56, we were soon enjoying ocean and beach views on the right. It was early enough in the day ( and a Sunday) that getting through Kapa'a was a breeze ( I was looking for Caffe Coco across the road from Kintaro where we planned to eat supper, but couldn't spot it. We continued north until the turnout to Kiauea Lighthouse. There is a nice lookout jsut before entering the park. This is a National Park, with the usual fees and staff that go with that. The staff are great, and they have free binoculars in the station just before the lighthouse. Tehre were whales off coast and pretty good spotting opportunities with the binoculars. Here we also spotted nenes, the hawaiian geese.

Next stop was Princeville. You turn off the main road at a rather opulent baroque fountain in the Trevi style, and it's a leisurely 5 mile drive through condos, golf courses and time shares and over speed bumps about every 100 yards or so, to the impressive Princeville Hotel. You can see Bali Hai in the distance bejond Halalei Bay and Ke'e beach, and surfers with barge poles are trying their luck far below. The hotel cantilevers down to the beach so the lobby is on top, the dining area one level below, and the room at successively lower levels below that and finally the beach. If we had arrived near sunset, the lobby bar would be a wonderful place to relax and watch the sunset. Other have said that is true, but we can only imagine.

We returned to the main road and dropped down into bustling Hanalei. We decided on Zelo's Beach House for lunch. It's not on the beach, but it looks as if it SHOULD be on the beach, and even those it was extremely busy, the food and the service were good. Ono, sometimes called wahoo, was the catch of the day and it was good. (we had to wait 15 minutes for a table, which usually drives me crazy but by then I was pretty relaxed).

We headed on down the road as far as it went, past one lane bridges, fillipino fishermen trying their luck in the streams, taro fields, beach bungalows, caves, magnificent waterfalls, and finally into the parking lot at Ke'e beach. We had a short walk on the beach and walked abour a mile along the Kalalau trail. We turned back when it got so muddy that it just wasn't fun anymore! We saw determined hikers returning from further on, covered in mud from head to toe in some cases. Not a pretty sight. This would be a nice hike on a dryer day, with the proper gear and with more time, but we were happy to enjoy the view over Ke'e and the breakers below, and then return to the car in time to get into Limahuli Garden and havbe a look around.

Limahuli is about a mile back, on the return from Ke'e, and it specializes in species that are native to the Hawaiian islands. It is a wonderful setting with beautiful displays and helpful personnel. They have umbrellas you can take along in case of an unexpected shower, and a dsipenser with skin-so-soft insect repellent at the start of the trail. There are water dispensers to quench your thirst along the way, similar to what you see on a golf course. Their is an excelent written and illustrated brochure for the self-guided tour. This valley is the setting for several ancient legends, including the tale of Nou O Makana, the firebrand thrower, and the legend of Pohaku-o-Kane, about the huge rock placed by the great god Kane on the ridge atop the valley.

We ambled back to Kapa'a and had a stroll through the rather drab shopping center there. Kapa'a is a busy spot with lots of condos, hotels, time shares, restaurants and shops. We found Caffe Coco, and went in for dinner. The restaurant is a little quirky, in a nice way and the food was delicious. The waiter was a character with a wierd sense of humor that I liked but I am sure many would find off-putting. There was a slack key guitarist from Hanapepe entertaining that evening. She was good with the guitar, but her lyrics were a bit jarring. I must say that we kept the car radio tuned in to Hawaiian music stations the whole time we were there. This added greatly to enhancing the island "feel" of the trip. Her lyric was "Oh, my Kauai Ohana, I'll be damned if I'll fee that way" Now, we had heard many, many Hawaiian tunes by then, but we never heard any of the "angry young man," or "angry young woman" variety. It just doesn't happen. Anyway, I guess she was putting her own mainland mark on the local music, and in a way that has been part of the history of these islands, beginning with Captain Cook and the other explorers and continuing through the fur traders, the whalers, the sugar and pineapple growers, and the tourist industry developers to this very day.
hikerboy is offline  
Old Mar 9th, 2006, 09:30 AM
  #34  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I'm frustrated because I try to write clearly and concisely and nearly always take the time to edit what I write. I have edited the last several posts, but the "edits" don't take.

Imagine if MS Word was like that! Maybe the session "times out" somehow. There is no FAQ on Fodor's so does anyone know?

Monday, Febraury 20

It had showered overnight, and remained showery in the morning. We had booked a 10AM tour of the Grove Farm Homestead near Lihue and were disappointed when they called to say that the tour had to be cancelled due to flooding. We went into Lihue anyway to pick up those packing bags at Kmart, and had a look around the harbor and the Marriott. We wanted to scope out this area, beacuse we were planning to spend Tuesday afternoon at the Kalapaki beach there, before catching our 7 PM flight to HNL to connect for our later flight to Vancouver. This place is only 2 miles from the airport and yet it is a nice beach, the Duke's restaurant is right there, and they have showers and facilities at the beach park.

In the afternoon, we drove as far west as you can go to Polihale State Park. The skies were overcast with dull sun, but no rain. This is a beautiful spot, right at the beginning of the south side of the NaPali coast. The last 5 miles are unpaved and it is pretty rugged getting in there, but worth it. I didn't trust the sea there and there was no life guard, but there were some people in the water. It was a steep slope and looked like there could be undertows, so we played it safe.

We went back to the B&B for a swim and a soak in the Jacuzzi and got ready for supper. We had a table reserved at Pomodoro Italian restaurant, just down the road in Kalaheo. 20 minutes before we were to head out, torrential downpours began. We waited for a let up, which really didn't come, and we finally headed off. We went over the hill, and it was dry at the restaurant but it wasn't long till the heavy rains began there too. The meal was wonderful. The owner/chef is originally from NJ/NY and he and his wife and brother have created a lovely dining option here. Imaginative and traditional Italian dishes are on offer. The kitchen is tiny, and it was entertaining to see the waitstaff maneuver in and out with brimming trays. Peg had pinot grigio, salad and the famous lasagna, while I tried the same with the fettucine and a complex and delicious red sauce, the evening's "special." Tiramisu and espresso for dessert.
hikerboy is offline  
Old Mar 9th, 2006, 10:46 AM
  #35  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
February 21

We arose with heavy hearts indeed. First, it was raining. Second, this was our last day in paradise. Third, it was 7 AM Tuesday and we would not be in a bed again until midnight Wednesday. But it's a small price to pay, really.

We had our final delicious breakfast at the BBJ house, bid farewell to our friends from Minnesota and Illinois, thanked our wonderful hosts, packed up the car and headed out.

Because of the rain, our oh-so-clever plans to spend the day at the beach were foiled, and we went to plan "B," which was to tour the Kauai museum in Lihue and hang out at the mall. The Kauai museum is in downtown Lihue, and it's a little gem. We were so fortunate to catch a guided tour and the guide, Mr. Lynn Sato, was an endless source of knowledge about the history of the islands, the migration patterns of the micronesian and polynesian peoples, and the artifacts on display in the museum. There is a marvelous collection of Ni'ihau shell necklaces there and some are so intricate and rare that they are worth over $100,000.

Lynn is a retired school teacher. His parents were Japanese immigrants and his dad worked on a sugar plantation and it was a hard life, well illustrated in the museum.

We really enjoyed the museum and Lynn's tour.

We had a great lunch at the Barbeque Inn on Kress St., next to Hamura's. They offer really good diner-type food, and it's a rare place where beverage, salad, roll and dessert are all included in the price. Peg had an avocado bacon burger, and I had the opakapaka platter. Good food and service.

We went briefly to the mall, and then decided to bail out. We caught a 4 PM flight to HNL and on to YVR, YUL, YFC and home!

As I said at the outset, we loved every minute of our visit to Hawaii.

I forgot to mention that on the afternoon of the 14th, we had lunch at Ono Hawaiian Foods onKapahulu Ave, just back from Waikiki. This is authentic Hawaiian food, and we had butterfly fish, lomi salmon, and laulau pork. Similar meals can be had at the Zippy's chain and at the various plate lunch paces around the islands.

Since the famous Leonard's was just across the street, we went there for dessert and ordered a variety of malassadas, the portuguese confection that puts Krispy Kreme to absolute shame. They are made to order and we had to try an assortment of cinnamon, custard, chocolate and coconut. They are truly delicious and best fresh and warm. Check with your cardiologist if you plan to have more than 2.

To prepare for the trip, we ordered free info from the state's web site about Oahu, Kauai and Moloka'i.

We scoured this site and came to know and cherish all the Hawaii fanatics whether they loved Oahu or Kauai better.

We read:
Travelers Tales Hawaii: True Stories of the Island Spirit
Oahu Revealed (Wizard)
Kauai Revealed (Wizard)
Frommer's Kauai
Kauai Undrground Guide
Shoal of Time: a History of the Hawaiian Islands.

We felt we made good use of our time and we were able to see quite a bit and also relax. We resisted the temptation to try to do it all.

If we had more time we would have seen more of the Honolulu museums and the university, and we would have hung out a bit on Waikiki.

On Kauai, we would have taken a helicopter tour, done the zip line tour, done some kayaking, explored more beaches and hiked a bit more.

If we go back, and I hope we do, we'll think about booking a condo for a change.

It was a wonderful and memorable trip.

Let me know if you have any questions, and thanks so much to all the Fodorites who helped us.
hikerboy is offline  
Old Mar 9th, 2006, 11:09 AM
  #36  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Here is the link to the photo album that accompanies this trip report:

http://share.shutterfly.com/action/w...Abt2rVk1aMWL5Q
hikerboy is offline  
Old Mar 9th, 2006, 12:11 PM
  #37  
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 440
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Absolutely fantastic trip report, hikerboy. Yours is now the standard by which all other trip reports will be judged. I thank you very much. I'll be reading it many more times before we leave for Kauai in 77 days.

Happy birthday visormom! Have a great trip.

8-)
jamaltay is offline  
Old Mar 10th, 2006, 04:35 AM
  #38  
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
hikerboy,

Thank so much for posting a very infomative trip report. The details are invaluable for those of us about to travel to the island. I am going for part of my honeymoon in May and am staying in the Marriott.

Very much enjoyed your pictures and report - printing it off for reference.
pastyp is offline  
Old Mar 10th, 2006, 06:10 AM
  #39  
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 4,294
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
hikerboy - we were at Cafe Coco the same night you were. We may have been there later though - it started pouring right after we finished dinner.

For anyone else reading this planning on going to Cafe Coco - it is BYOB. Would have been nice to know that to avoid being restricted to the wine selection at the Citgo station across the street.
Brian_in_Charlotte is offline  
Old Mar 10th, 2006, 10:04 AM
  #40  
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hikerboy:
Loved your trip report.
We are thinking about staying at the Kaimana Beach Hotel in Waikiki in October. Would you stay there again or do you have another recommendation?
s1951 is offline  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -