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Old Oct 17th, 2002, 01:31 PM
  #1  
lydia
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NYC - upper west side question

I will be staying at the Quality Inn on 94th next weekend and was wondering about interesting areas around there to explore. I know the area is largely residential but with some shops. I'm mostly interested in unique or funky shops, interesting architecture and streets just for wandering and shopping. Anyone have any favorite stores or streets or things to do in that area. Thanks.
 
Old Oct 17th, 2002, 01:47 PM
  #2  
tweedy
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Lydia,

I would head toward downtown, on Broadway to see some of the shops and site see. Or you could walk over to Central Park West and see some of the park. It is beautiful this time of year.

IF you head down Columbus Ave there are lots of restaurants as you go downtown and at 65th St is Lincoln Center.

If you want to head uptown, St. John the Divine is on Amsterdam and 110th and one of the largest cathedrals in the world. Also in the area is Columbia and you can walk around campus.

Another suggestion would be to hop on the #4 bus up Broadway and go to the Cloisters which is my favorite museum in the city. It's around 200th St. in Ft. Tryon Park, and it's like being out of the city, beautiful views of the Hudson and the park is beautiful this time of year.

Hope this helps, have a great time while you are here.

tweedy
 
Old Oct 17th, 2002, 04:05 PM
  #3  
James
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Hey Lydia:

The first thing you should do when you get to New York is to pick up a copy of the Manhattan bus map. You can get one on any Manhattan bus, many subway stations and at the Transit Store in Grand Central Terminal (Shuttle Passage).

Then, get yourself a $4 all-day MetroCard. You can buy one from the machines in any subway station.

The reason I suggest this is that I have found that riding the bus in Manhattan gives you a great orientation, and you can see all the stores, cafes, restaurants and architecture along the way. Then, if you see something interesting, you can just get off at the next stop, or make a note of it for later.

Plus, most tourists venture onto the buses. They are way less packed than the subway and you can even talk to locals and ask them if they have any suggestions.

If you just ride the #104 bus south on Broadway, you will pass a lot of stuff. The area around 72nd on Broadway is very busy with stores, cafes, etc.

Riverside Park is just a couple of blocks west of you (although I'm not 100% sure where the closest entrance would be, since you have to cross over the West Side Highway).

Of course, Central Park is only a 10-15 min walk east of the hotel. It can also be fun to walk along Central Park West or Fifth Avenue (on the other side of Central Park) and imagine what it would be like to live in one of those buildings.

The M96 bus runs along 96st and is a quick way to get to the Upper East Side/Fifth Avenue/Museum Mile.

This site, a guide to the Upper West Side, might be useful: http://www.nysite.com/

Overall, my favorite thing to do in New York is to just wander. You'll see things that no one would ever have told you about that you'll really enjoy (a little cafe, a small park, a quaint store).
 
Old Oct 17th, 2002, 05:36 PM
  #4  
lydia
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Thanks for the replys. Actually that last statement from James is what I was trying to get: "things that no one would ever have told you about that you'll really enjoy (a little cafe, a small park, a quaint store)" . I was hoping someone familiar with the area might share a favorite store, street, cafe, etc. Somethings that probably aren't in guidebooks. I'm fairly familiar with the city (grew up on Long Island and spent lots of time in the city, just not the upper west side, and I've lived away from the area for the past 20 years with only occassional visits). On most of my trips I've gone to Central Park (one of my favorite areas), and last summer I did the Cloisters (loved it). From what I have seen and heard, this area is quite charming and I was just hoping for some tips as to which streets would be best, or any special places that I might miss. Thanks
 
Old Oct 17th, 2002, 10:31 PM
  #5  
patty
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Love St. John's cathedral - the interior, the art, gardens and Peace Fountain with animal sculptures outside. You can eat pizza at V&T across Amsterdam Ave (surly service) or, my favorite, coffee and pastry at the Hungarian Pastry Shop, the Starbucks before S'bucks.

There's also a triangular, tiny park with benches at 106th St, where West End Ave (WEA) & Broadway cross. It's called Strauss Park and features a statue in honor of Isidor & Ida Strauss who died on the Titanic and lived in the neighborhood. The Nicholas Roerich Museum is close by there, on 107th between WEA & Riverside Dr (RSD). I'd never heard of him either, but it IS a museum no one talks about! On RSD between 105th & 106th you'll find a Buddhist temple with a statue which survived Hiroshima marking it.

In Riverside Park & 104th, if you go down one level to the promenade, then down another level to the beach volleyball courts, you'll be at my favorite outdoor cafe, Hudson Beach Cafe. I'm not sure they'll be open then but I saw an ad for the Boat Basin Cafe (at RS Park & 79th and the Beach Cafe's sibling) and they're open every nice day in October.

While walking thru RS Park, check out the Community Garden at 91st St (Promenade Level) and the Soldiers & Sailors Monument at 88th St (Street Level).

Across Bway from where you're staying is the newly renovated Symphony Space, You may want to check out their schedule for movies at the Thalia or possible concerts. My fave events there are the literary ones where actors like William Hurt and Liev Schreiber read excerpts of old and current authors. Behind Symphony Space is an interesting "mews" called Pomander Walk - 2 rows of townhouses between 94th & 95th, between Bway & WEA. And if you like horses, the Claremont Stables are on 89th St between Amsterdam & Columbus.

Streets I love: 84th (Edgar Allan Poe) & 89th Streets from WEA to RS Park and 83rd St & 95th Streets from Columbus to CP West. At CPW & 106th there's a long-ruined castle which was finally being renovated but I heard that the money behind the renovation may have run out.

Stores: Murder Ink & Ivy's Bookstore on Bway & 93rd St - great mystery selection and nice dog. Liberty House at Bway & 85/86 or Bway & 113-ish for funky comfortable clothes. Maxilla & Mandible for bones and insects - they're on Columbus & 81/82, near the Nat Hist Museum of course. And Fishs Eddy on Bway & 77th St - overstocked plates and stuff but my fave latest buy is their 212 line - cups, mugs, plates, dishtowels, etc with the NYC skyline and buildings named.

Food: I love love love A, a tiny Caribbean restaurant on Columbus & 107th St. Gennaro (Amst & 92) for Italian. Saigon Grill (Amst & 90) for cheap Vietnamese. I like Joan (Bway & 103) but my friend swears by Kitaro (Amst & 84? 83?) for Japanese. And Mama Mexico (Bway & 102) and Gabriela's (Amst & 93rd) for Mexican. On a rainy afternoon, I adore Alice's Tea Cup, further down on 73rd between Amsterdam & Columbus.

Bakeries (my weakess): Levain (74th between Amst & Col) - small, in the basement with few seats if any. Columbus Bakery (Columbus & 83rd) with a lot of seats, but usually crowded. Silver Moon Bakery (Bway & 105th) with a few seats & tables.

Have fun and if I think of something else, I'll post.
 
Old Oct 18th, 2002, 03:30 AM
  #6  
lydia
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Patty - thanks so much, that's just the kind of suff I'm looking for. I'm printing all your suggestions to take with me. Any one else with similiar favorites I'd love to hear them.
 
Old Oct 18th, 2002, 10:40 AM
  #7  
AB
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Just came across this post and was going to answer (I'm a neighborhood girl) but it looks like Patty, obviously my long lost twin, hit most of the hotspots!

The truth is that the further down Broadway you go, the more likely you are to come across chain stores--north of 86th is better, Amsterdam is even better as far as uniques shops, but don't forget to hit the side streets. For example, on 80th between Broadway and Amsterdam are a couple of unusual below street level shops--one is Tibetan goods, can't think of the others. The side streets have some of the more interesting buildings too, I think. There are a couple of magnificent, highly ornamented buildings on the streets between Broadway and Columbus, in the low 70's--I think one was a Knights of Columbus BUilding and has heavily gilded and tile facade. I've lived in the neighborhood for years and always stumble across amazing blocks I've never seen, so don't try to have your walking tout *too* mapped out...
 
Old Oct 18th, 2002, 10:57 AM
  #8  
jvs
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Patty gives GREAT advice. I can only stress that you MUST go to the Hungarian Pastry shop (111th and Amsterdam)It is so nice to have a hot Hungarian coffee and croissant at a table outside this time of year.
 
Old Oct 18th, 2002, 11:07 AM
  #9  
Judy
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Lydia,
We too like to stay/visit the upper west side on our trips to NY. (No specific suggestions -- I just like to walk around and explore.) I've been curious about the Quality Inn and would be interested in hearing how you like the hotel. Perhaps you'd be willing to post your thoughts about the hotel when you return.
 
Old Oct 18th, 2002, 12:18 PM
  #10  
Merilee
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I recommend a visit to a restaurant named La Caridad on Broadway around West 80th Street (I may be off by a few blocks). Anyway, it serves delicious Chinese Caribbean cuisine. They serve you a large portion at a very reasonable price. One of my favorites is the ropa vieja (beef, so hopefully you're not a vegetarian) with arroz amarillo, habichuelas rojas and maduros, which are sweet fried plantains. Finish the meal with flan and a cafe con leche. It's a very popluar restaurant and it's great for people watching.
 
Old Oct 18th, 2002, 12:23 PM
  #11  
jvs
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La Rosita (B'way between 108 and 109) is fantastic Mexican food.
 
Old Oct 18th, 2002, 01:23 PM
  #12  
James
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Hi Lydia:

Sorry I couldn't give you more specific information on the Upper West Side, I'm not familiar with specific stores in the area. I didn't realize that you knew your way around and stuff. I thought maybe you were a first-time tourists and I was trying to give some general information.

One area (which isn't super close to the Upper West Side, but is still cool) that I visited in a past trip to New York was Washington Heights. If you take the #1 train up to around 181St and get off, there is a wonderful stretch along Broadway of hispanic-oriented businesses. It was just cool to walk around and see all the different stores and people, with most of the conversations and business being conducted in Spanish. Very busy and didn't feel unsafe at all.

After that, you can head west, cross Broadway, and head up the hill to Fort Washington Avenue. Between, say, 181st and 190th, there are a lot of BEAUTIFUL Art Deco apartment buildings. I'm not sure if that's the sort of architecure you're interested in, but i just love it. You can also take tha A train to either 181st or 190th and you exit onto Fort Washington Ave.

This guy has a great website about some of the buildings and other attractions in what has been dubbed "Hudson Heights":

http://www.brorson.com/neighborhood/NeighborhoodTourNew.html

The M4 bus also runs along Broadway and Fort Washington Avenue north of 110th Street.
 
Old Oct 18th, 2002, 07:04 PM
  #13  
patty
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Hi AB - so you're a west sider too? Lydia - I wanted to clarify some streets and add a few new comments. First, one of the Liberty Houses is on Bway between 87 & 88. And although Pomander Walk can be seen from both 94th & 95th Sts, 94th St has the old style sign hanging. Walking from Bway to WEA on 94th, it's interesting to go from the ultra-new Lyric apartments, with the folks working out on the 2nd floor, to Pomander Walk built in the 1920s.

I forgot to mention another of my fave small parks. It's the park alongside the Natural History Museum, on Columbus Ave between 79 and 81. I believe its name is either Teddy Roosevelt or Margaret Mead Park, but my friend and I call it Timeless Park after sitting there one foggy dusk watching people, and time, go by. And if you walk through Riverside Park, I just wanted to mention to keep your eyes out for the newly placed dog statues at the various dog runs.

AB, is that wonderful building the one on 70th between Bway & Columbus? If so it's the Pythian Temple now Condo - I love the bldg and would love to see an apartment in there. And don't forget the Ansonia on Bway & 73rd!
 
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