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Old Jan 15th, 2003, 09:07 AM
  #1  
suzanne
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New Orleans Trip Report

Trip Report Part 1

We went to New Orleans from January 10-13 (got a great deal from Expedia - $580 total for 2 people for 3 nights hotel and RT airfare from NYC!!).

When we arrived Friday morning, we rented a car ($80 for 3 days from Avis) and drove on Rtes 10 and 90 to Alabama so my bf could get closer to his goal of visiting all 50 states - he checked off three on this trip, and is now up to 47 - a totally silly thing to do, I know!! The best part was driving along the Mississippi coast, especially the town of Pass Christian, where there were nice mansions with big old oak trees right across the street from the beach. The casino towns were not quite as nice. On the return trip we passed through the same town and got out to walk on the beach. We saw one of the most awesome sunsets ever! The weather was nice and warm that first day...no jacket needed.

Friday evening we checked into the Queen & Crescent Hotel. After reading negative comments on this board, I was prepared for the worst. Actually, it was not bad. The room was nice and clean and more spacious than I expected, and the bathroom had a nice marble countertop with a double sink. The valet service was quick. The location of the hotel was excellent...we could easily walk to anywhere in the French Quarter, and the St. Charles streetcar stopped just a couple blocks away. There were three things I did not like about this place: 1) The cost of parking - $24/day. Oh my! We unfortunately didn't check around anywhere else. 2) Ther hotel is made up of 2 buildings, and we were in the 2nd building which didn't have any front desk staff or security officer. You were supposed to use your room card to enter the building, but the door was broken so anyone could get in. 3) The continental breakfast consisted of a box of Dunkin Donuts, apples and coffee with no milk. Blech!

Friday night we strolled down Bourbon Street to check it out. There were lots of people, but it was not nearly as crowded as Times Square in NYC. The age range was wide - young teens to 60-somethings filled the street. A lot of the 20-somethings were drunk and stumbling, even at 7PM. Music poured out of every bar. There were several strip clubs (both gay and straight) though we didn't check any of those out. We went to Pat O'Brien's for dinner and drinks. It's a huge place with an enormous courtyard. The red bricks, ironwork, plants everywhere, and lit-up fountains gave this place a really cool atmosphere! There were electric heaters to keep everyone warm since most of the place was open-air. I had a huge 1/2 muffaletta sandwich and my bf had a shrimp and pasta dish, and we each ordered a huge drink. We were shocked that the bill came to only $31!
 
Old Jan 15th, 2003, 09:09 AM
  #2  
suzanne
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Part 2

Saturday morning was freezing! We slept in and then walked around Canal Street in the morning. We were surprised to find a HUGE Harrah's Casino right at the end of the street near the water (funny I never knew about that from my research). We took the St Charles Streetcar ($1.25) to the Garden District where we walked around and looked at all the nice homes. We also checked out the Lafayette Cemetery. Then we went to the jazz brunch at Commander's Palace. It was fabulous! It cost in the $25-$29 range for 3 courses. The best were the egg dishes, and the bread pudding. The staff was very attentive and friendly. I recommend it!

Next we walk over to Magazine Street, near Washington. There were lots of interesting little shops, mostly specializing in antiques. A local told me about this area. There didn't appear to be any tourists here. After awhile we got back on the streetcar and took it to the end in Riverbend, then back to the hotel to warm up for a few hours - we were frozen solid! Really, 50 degrees in N.O. feels like 30 in NYC, I guess because of the humidity.

That night we drove over to Mid-City Rock and Bowl. What a hoot! It's an old-time bowling alley with local bands playing on a stage. The local beer (Abita) was good and cheap, and so was the bowling...only $3 per person per game! But there was also a cover charge - $7 per person. We were full from the big lunch so we ordered a small pizza at the alley - not very good..but didn't really expect it to be.

Sunday morning we went to Beignet Cafe in the French Quarter for - what else - beignets. They are similar to fried dough or funnel cakes, but are small and square...and so heavy and filling that they'll hold you till dinner. The cafe au lait was very good. We walked up Royal Street, which was full of small galleries and interesting shops. I could have spent all day here! There was one especially interesting shop which sold old currency, including confederate dollars. Cool stuff! We also checked out Jackson Square and Chartres Street and the French Market area. Then we decided to go to the mall along the water (Riverwalk?) because it was so damned cold out we couldn't take it! After an hour of warming up there, we walked to Gallery Row in the Warehouse District...unfortunately everything was closed on a Sunday. It wasn't as interesting as the galleries on Royal Street, anyway. Back to the hotel to catch the Jets game.

That evening we still weren't hungry (those beignets go a long way) so we just went out for a drink, at Cafe Sbisa in the French Quarter. What a pleasant place! The bartender and maitre'd were super-friendly. A jazz trio in the corner added to the atmosphere. It would have been a great place to have dinner, had we been hungry! We stayed until closing, 10PM, and walked back along Bourbon Street, to listen to the music coming out of the bars. It's too bad...all the places playing nice local music were empty while the rock bands drew all the crowds.

Monday morning we drove upstream along the Mississippi. It was a mix of huge industrial plants, villages of dilapidated shacks, and a couple grand old manor houses scattered here and there. We stopped at Oak Alley Plantation, more than an hour's drive from N.O. Its grounds and "alley" of oak trees were beautiful. We only caught the beginning of the house tour b/c we had to make the long ride back to catch our plane.

That's my trip report - sorry it was so long! Feel free to ask questions.
 
Old Jan 15th, 2003, 09:17 AM
  #3  
Nancy
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Thanks for the report, Suzanne, and it sounds like you had a wonderful time.
(I'd add Mother's for po' boys and Central Grocery for muffalettas next time you go
 
Old Jan 15th, 2003, 09:26 AM
  #4  
suzanne
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Hi Nancy - thanks! I did peek into Central Grocery...the line was long, and I was just not hungry after all those beignets! One muffaletta = 5 meals for me...those things are so huge!
 
Old Jan 15th, 2003, 09:30 AM
  #5  
Nancy
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Yes, Suzanne.
Even a short trip to New Orleans shoots my diet to smithereens.
At least some calories get burned off by all the walking around and seeing the sights
 
Old Jan 15th, 2003, 10:16 AM
  #6  
J Correa
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We walked so much in New Orleans - I think we burned off every calorie we ate.
 
Old Jan 15th, 2003, 01:56 PM
  #7  
ttt
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ttt
 
Old Jan 16th, 2003, 07:44 AM
  #8  
Susan
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Thanks for the great report, I will be in NO for a week at the end of Jan. Can't wait! You sounded like it was really COLD-do you think we need NY winter wear-heavy coat, gloves, hat? I was hoping 50 degrees would be more comfortable and I could get away with a lighter jacket. Susan
 
Old Jan 16th, 2003, 08:27 AM
  #9  
Nancy
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Susan, We are having a very cold winter in the SE this year, and according to the weather people, there is no end in sight.
The problem with any city on the water is that when it's cold, and then you add humidity like NOLA's - and wind - it makes it seem much colder than the actual air temps.
I'd watch the weather closely right as you are getting ready to leave and pack accordingly.
The wind coming off the water there is chiiling to the bone even when the air temps are not that bad.
Nothing more miserable than trying to walk around and see the sights being cold...
 
Old Jan 16th, 2003, 09:52 AM
  #10  
suzanne
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I WISHED I had my long coat when I was there. Thank God I had a hat and gloves and scarf, at least. My boyfriend bought two heavy turtleneck sweaters there to wear over his other sweaters. Yes, even at 50 degrees it was THAT cold.

After walking around all morning and afternoon, we always wound up back in the hotel where we would get under the covers, fully clothed (even w/jackets on) and crank the heat to 80...and it took several hours to thaw out.
 
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