New Orleans: To see or not to see ...
Dec 30th, 2007, 10:23 AM
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New Orleans: To see or not to see ...
Hello!
I will be in New Orleans for six days and five nights (mid-January). It is a business trip but my evenings are mostly free. Still, since it is work trip, my schedule needs to be flexible so I am not posting the usual itinerary and instead asking some general questions.
Reviewing Fodors 2008 guide and several threads here, here are the things I hope to see (most from the street, except for places like St. Louis Cathedral), eat, or do.
To see:
French Quarter:
1. Visit Jackson square, St. Louis Cathedral, Cabildo, Faulkner house, Presbytere, Pontalba buildings, Lafitte blacksmith shop. Stop at French market to buy? cheap stuff
2. Visit Bourbon street (Gallier house, Gauche house, Hermann Grima house, LaBranche houses). I loved the comment in Fodor's guide that Bourbon street, as anything that has lived hard and long, is better seen in low light!!
3. Canal place: Okay, since Wyndham is right here, I don't have to walk! I understand I can get great shots of the City from Wyndham.
4. Woldenburg riverfront park and seawall
5. Walk near Royal/Chartres streets and have a cocktail at Napolean House
To eat:
1. Breakfast/s at Cafe du Monde (beignets are a must try)
2. Central grocery: for Muffelettas
3. Acme Oyster and Seafood restaurant: Ahem... for Seafood
4. Galatoire's: Creole
5. Stella's: Eclectic
Nightlife:
1. Bourbon street
2. Lafitte's balcksmith shop
3. Spotted Cat (Jazz/Blues) or Preservation Hall
Questions:
1. Am I missing anything worthwhile in French Quarter that I could accomodate by dumping something else?
2. The "to see" list above: Are they all close enough to walking distance from Wyndham New Orleans where I will stay (I don't plan on a car rental)?
3. What is so special about cemetary tours in NO? Most guides seem to mention it! I won't have time for it but curious.
4. A late evening river cruise: What do you see? Does it operate in mid-January?
5. The cable car.... Is it worth a trip to go up/down the Canal Street (like in San Francisco?)?
Thanks so much!
I will be in New Orleans for six days and five nights (mid-January). It is a business trip but my evenings are mostly free. Still, since it is work trip, my schedule needs to be flexible so I am not posting the usual itinerary and instead asking some general questions.
Reviewing Fodors 2008 guide and several threads here, here are the things I hope to see (most from the street, except for places like St. Louis Cathedral), eat, or do.
To see:
French Quarter:
1. Visit Jackson square, St. Louis Cathedral, Cabildo, Faulkner house, Presbytere, Pontalba buildings, Lafitte blacksmith shop. Stop at French market to buy? cheap stuff
2. Visit Bourbon street (Gallier house, Gauche house, Hermann Grima house, LaBranche houses). I loved the comment in Fodor's guide that Bourbon street, as anything that has lived hard and long, is better seen in low light!!
3. Canal place: Okay, since Wyndham is right here, I don't have to walk! I understand I can get great shots of the City from Wyndham.
4. Woldenburg riverfront park and seawall
5. Walk near Royal/Chartres streets and have a cocktail at Napolean House
To eat:
1. Breakfast/s at Cafe du Monde (beignets are a must try)
2. Central grocery: for Muffelettas
3. Acme Oyster and Seafood restaurant: Ahem... for Seafood
4. Galatoire's: Creole
5. Stella's: Eclectic
Nightlife:
1. Bourbon street
2. Lafitte's balcksmith shop
3. Spotted Cat (Jazz/Blues) or Preservation Hall
Questions:
1. Am I missing anything worthwhile in French Quarter that I could accomodate by dumping something else?
2. The "to see" list above: Are they all close enough to walking distance from Wyndham New Orleans where I will stay (I don't plan on a car rental)?
3. What is so special about cemetary tours in NO? Most guides seem to mention it! I won't have time for it but curious.
4. A late evening river cruise: What do you see? Does it operate in mid-January?
5. The cable car.... Is it worth a trip to go up/down the Canal Street (like in San Francisco?)?
Thanks so much!
Dec 30th, 2007, 11:21 AM
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NO's cemeteries are unusual because, with the very high water table, underground graves were and are a problem. Many of the "graves" are actually mini-mausoleums above ground and in a variety of styles. If you have not already read it, it is wise to take escorted tours to these cemeteries. They are high-crime areas and being there by yourself is not a smart idea.
I enjoy the NO streetcars but they are not in the style of the San Francisco cable cars. Rather, they are closed, electric cars. The ones on Charles Street and Canal Street are the old-style green cars. The ones along the Riverfront, if they have started running them again, are a slightly more modern looking red car. When I was there last april, they were still refurbishing the red cars and were using the green cars on the waterfront route. There are photos of both on my New Orleans gallery at http://www.worldisround.com/articles/329690/index.html.
I would not take the Canal Street route just for the experience of it. It is fine for transportation but not much for sight-seeing unless you enjoy a clogged and somewhat seedy commercial road. I would, if you can do it in daylight, take the Charles Street route. It passes along the fringe of the FQ and out through the Garden District. You'll see some marvelous NO homes and buildings along that route.
I haven't been back to the zoo since Katrina but I enjoyed my visits prior to that. The NO Aquarium on the waterfront is also a good place to visit. I don't know what the winter hours are at the aquarium but the zoo is probably not an option if you have only evenings available.
NO is one of my favorite destinations and I try to go almost every year. Enjoy your trip.
I enjoy the NO streetcars but they are not in the style of the San Francisco cable cars. Rather, they are closed, electric cars. The ones on Charles Street and Canal Street are the old-style green cars. The ones along the Riverfront, if they have started running them again, are a slightly more modern looking red car. When I was there last april, they were still refurbishing the red cars and were using the green cars on the waterfront route. There are photos of both on my New Orleans gallery at http://www.worldisround.com/articles/329690/index.html.
I would not take the Canal Street route just for the experience of it. It is fine for transportation but not much for sight-seeing unless you enjoy a clogged and somewhat seedy commercial road. I would, if you can do it in daylight, take the Charles Street route. It passes along the fringe of the FQ and out through the Garden District. You'll see some marvelous NO homes and buildings along that route.
I haven't been back to the zoo since Katrina but I enjoyed my visits prior to that. The NO Aquarium on the waterfront is also a good place to visit. I don't know what the winter hours are at the aquarium but the zoo is probably not an option if you have only evenings available.
NO is one of my favorite destinations and I try to go almost every year. Enjoy your trip.
Dec 30th, 2007, 01:15 PM
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I don't know if I would do the late river cruise since I think it's a dinner ride. There are too many other places with much better food - a short day cruise would maybe be better.
While the cemeteries are very interesting a Gray Line tour of the city with a short stop at a cemetery would be plenty if you're not really into the burial means:
(http://www.graylineneworleans.com/).
Another place for breakfast would be Petunia's on St. Louis St.
(http://www.petuniasrestaurant.com/)
The streetcar rides on St. Charles are really neat to see the mansions in the Garden District, but since you will be tied up during the day you may not enjoy it that much at night.
I'm not a big history buff so I didn't really like the Cabildo and Presbytere that much but many other people on this site were fascinated with the exhibits.
You might want to try to see Mardi Gras World if you have time.
(http://www.mardigrasworld.com/)
I haven't seen many posts from Dan (who is a New Orleans native and very knowledgeable) but if he does respond he may be able to add some other information for you.
Enjoy the city!
While the cemeteries are very interesting a Gray Line tour of the city with a short stop at a cemetery would be plenty if you're not really into the burial means:
(http://www.graylineneworleans.com/).
Another place for breakfast would be Petunia's on St. Louis St.
(http://www.petuniasrestaurant.com/)
The streetcar rides on St. Charles are really neat to see the mansions in the Garden District, but since you will be tied up during the day you may not enjoy it that much at night.
I'm not a big history buff so I didn't really like the Cabildo and Presbytere that much but many other people on this site were fascinated with the exhibits.
You might want to try to see Mardi Gras World if you have time.
(http://www.mardigrasworld.com/)
I haven't seen many posts from Dan (who is a New Orleans native and very knowledgeable) but if he does respond he may be able to add some other information for you.
Enjoy the city!
Dec 30th, 2007, 01:52 PM
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Thanks, dwooddon and ccooler. Definitely no time during the days so the cable car is out. Petunia's is in and will consider Mardi Gras World if I have some time. Regarding the cemetaries, no matter how unusual, I don't think I have any interest in visiting. If I had gone, even if there was no crime, I won't have gone alone because I am easily spooked Just kidding.
Any suggestions on books that discuss the history of the region and are concise enough?? I simply don't have time to read a thick book on the topic.
Really appreciate your advice. I have been to New Orleans only once and for 24 hours (coincided with St. Patrick's Day.... that was pretty nice), so looking forward to a return, longer visit.
Just kidding. Any suggestions on books that discuss the history of the region and are concise enough?? I simply don't have time to read a thick book on the topic.
Really appreciate your advice. I have been to New Orleans only once and for 24 hours (coincided with St. Patrick's Day.... that was pretty nice), so looking forward to a return, longer visit.
Dec 30th, 2007, 06:50 PM
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Laffite's Blacksmith Shop isn't worth walking all the way down Bourbon to see. It is quite a way down and away from most of the action, and even with Hubby, we felt unsafe goign down the dark street.
Dec 30th, 2007, 07:09 PM
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In case you're interested:
http://tinyurl.com/3vp4m
http://tinyurl.com/3vp4m
Dec 31st, 2007, 03:48 AM
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There's nothing unsafe about going to Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop. Geez. It's just two blocks from the "action" and the walk isn't unsafe at all.
Also, another poster is right. The St. Charles streetcar does run all the way to "river bend" now. Only the Carrollton spur isn't operational and that's okay since most tourists got off at Camellia Grill anyway!
Also, another poster is right. The St. Charles streetcar does run all the way to "river bend" now. Only the Carrollton spur isn't operational and that's okay since most tourists got off at Camellia Grill anyway!
Dec 31st, 2007, 05:06 AM
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Useful link, olesouthernbelle, although it tells me no parades while I am there. Which is fine. smartcookie, thanks! You guys have the two coolest screen names I have come across on fodors.
ChristieP, Appreciate the post. I am a man. Real men don't get scared. Or ask for directions when lost because we CAN get there. Sooner or later. Just kidding I will have couple other people with me and I will try to visit Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop.
Dan, Thanks too.
ChristieP, Appreciate the post. I am a man. Real men don't get scared. Or ask for directions when lost because we CAN get there. Sooner or later. Just kidding
I will have couple other people with me and I will try to visit Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop. Dan, Thanks too.
Dec 31st, 2007, 08:07 AM
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Things have been covered pretty well, I think - just a couple things.
Cafe Du Monde - I like them for a snack or dessert rather than breakfast - I need more than sugar and coffee first thing.
Mardi Gras World - if you are going with other people, check the Convension and Visitor's web site. They often have 2-for-1 coupons.
Preservation Hall - see if you can check their line up before you go or when you first get there to make sure you can go when they have someone you want to see. We didn't go this last trip because on the nights we had available, they were either closed or had gospel, which we don't care for.
Mufalettas - We like the muffalettas at Napoleon House better than at Central Grocery. I hear that they are really good at Masperos too.
And did anybody say it yet? No need for a rental car, so don't worry about that. A rental car would be more trouble than it would be worth.
Have a great trip
Cafe Du Monde - I like them for a snack or dessert rather than breakfast - I need more than sugar and coffee first thing.
Mardi Gras World - if you are going with other people, check the Convension and Visitor's web site. They often have 2-for-1 coupons.
Preservation Hall - see if you can check their line up before you go or when you first get there to make sure you can go when they have someone you want to see. We didn't go this last trip because on the nights we had available, they were either closed or had gospel, which we don't care for.
Mufalettas - We like the muffalettas at Napoleon House better than at Central Grocery. I hear that they are really good at Masperos too.
And did anybody say it yet? No need for a rental car, so don't worry about that. A rental car would be more trouble than it would be worth.
Have a great trip
Dec 31st, 2007, 10:19 AM
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ComfyShoes,
Glad to hear that you'll be visiting New Orleans.
You have some great ideas, although with the shorter hours of winter, you many not be able to accomplish all that you set out to see, and many of the places (museums, especially), may not be open late into the evening during your visit.
Since you'll be staying 6 days/5 nights, I presume that means you'll get at least one day (or maybe a half day) that falls onto a weekend. That being the case, you may want to schedule any museum tourings on that day.
I would disagree with others that posted that the St. Charles streetcar route is only enjoyed in the day. I would disagree - that route is to be enjoyed year round, day or night. Some of my most fond memories were taking the streetcar late at night... My suggestion is to ride the streetcar - it's a national landmark. Right now, the St. Charles line goes out to the Riverbend area and doesn't proceed down Carrollton, but you'll get enough just going out to Riverbend anyway.
As far as cemetaries are concerned, if you've never seen a New Orleans cemetary, you need to see one at least once. Definitely take a tour as they located the cemetaries in the "back of town" areas.
As far as River cruises are concerned, others are right when they say the food is generally not that good on the river cruises. You get the ambiance, but not good food. Honestly, you're better off taking the ferry from Canal Street to Algiers and back to get a "feel" for the river.
Glad to hear that you'll be visiting New Orleans.
You have some great ideas, although with the shorter hours of winter, you many not be able to accomplish all that you set out to see, and many of the places (museums, especially), may not be open late into the evening during your visit.
Since you'll be staying 6 days/5 nights, I presume that means you'll get at least one day (or maybe a half day) that falls onto a weekend. That being the case, you may want to schedule any museum tourings on that day.
I would disagree with others that posted that the St. Charles streetcar route is only enjoyed in the day. I would disagree - that route is to be enjoyed year round, day or night. Some of my most fond memories were taking the streetcar late at night... My suggestion is to ride the streetcar - it's a national landmark. Right now, the St. Charles line goes out to the Riverbend area and doesn't proceed down Carrollton, but you'll get enough just going out to Riverbend anyway.
As far as cemetaries are concerned, if you've never seen a New Orleans cemetary, you need to see one at least once. Definitely take a tour as they located the cemetaries in the "back of town" areas.
As far as River cruises are concerned, others are right when they say the food is generally not that good on the river cruises. You get the ambiance, but not good food. Honestly, you're better off taking the ferry from Canal Street to Algiers and back to get a "feel" for the river.
Dec 31st, 2007, 11:31 AM
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I'd have a hard time trying to combine work and New Orleans One story came to mind about a friend who took 2 first-timers to Vaughan's on a Thursday night to see Kermit Ruffins for a real locals flavored night out. He looked around at some point and thought they'd got bored and left without him, but when he went out front he found both of'em working the grill at the BBQ! I'm sure they still talk about that night.
Anyway, you already have a pretty good idea of what you want to see, but here's a couple more places I always come back to:
Mandina's on Canal - I heard it was open again (!) and it's as good an excuse to ride the streetcar as any
The Gumbo Shop - I enjoyed ACME back in the day, but I find myself drawn to the Gumbo Shop at least one meal every trip I make
Crescent City Brewing on Decatur - nice brews, an upscale pub menu, and a nice centrally located hang spot
Louisiana Music Factory - best music selection I've seen anywhere for my tastes, and free in-store music performances from my musical heroes
Frenchmen Street - a boho strip of fun, funky, establishments featuring great food, music & art... all a couple of blocks past the French Mkt on the other side of Esplanade
One story came to mind about a friend who took 2 first-timers to Vaughan's on a Thursday night to see Kermit Ruffins for a real locals flavored night out. He looked around at some point and thought they'd got bored and left without him, but when he went out front he found both of'em working the grill at the BBQ! I'm sure they still talk about that night.Anyway, you already have a pretty good idea of what you want to see, but here's a couple more places I always come back to:
Mandina's on Canal - I heard it was open again (!) and it's as good an excuse to ride the streetcar as any
The Gumbo Shop - I enjoyed ACME back in the day, but I find myself drawn to the Gumbo Shop at least one meal every trip I make
Crescent City Brewing on Decatur - nice brews, an upscale pub menu, and a nice centrally located hang spot
Louisiana Music Factory - best music selection I've seen anywhere for my tastes, and free in-store music performances from my musical heroes
Frenchmen Street - a boho strip of fun, funky, establishments featuring great food, music & art... all a couple of blocks past the French Mkt on the other side of Esplanade
Dec 31st, 2007, 11:58 AM
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Good suggestion about the ferry over to Algiers - we took that since we were going to Mardi Gras world - it was neat being out on the river, even if we didn't do a cruise - we had planned to take a boat up to Audubon Park, but it wasn't running when we were there. If it is running, that is another possibility - you could take a boat to the park and then take the St Charles streetcar back.
Jan 1st, 2008, 07:47 AM
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Another vote for the muffaletta at Central Grocery! During my last trip, I even bought a jar of their olive salad home with me. During that trip (pre-Katrina), one of my favorite stops was at the D-Day Museum. It's over by the convention center and is a fascinating little museum (and very different from everything else in NO).
Jan 1st, 2008, 10:21 AM
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Hi guys! First of, a very happy 2008 to each of you!
dwooddon, I forgot to thank you for your photo link. New Orleans really is an unusual (in a good way) city in States. Lots of character. ChristieP, thanks for the additional information to put better perspective on Lafittes' location. olesouthernbelle, thank you but I think your ID is cool"er". Just agree with me to not have to argue J_Correa, my usual morning breakfast is a single toast laden with extra butter and jam, and a glass of OJ. Yes, I have poor standards so far as breakfasts at home and Cafe Du Monde should work No rental car for me. bkluvsnola, Thanks! ronin, I have a hard time combining work with life irrespective of where I am Just kidding (I LOVE my work).
Okay, so here is what I pick up from your posts:
- Muffalettas at Napolean House
- Take the streetcar. Once Just for the hell of it. May be to visit Mandina's on Canal
- Consider a ferry from Canal street to Algiers?
- Perhaps visit Louisiana Music Factory
- Walk Frenchmen Street to know what "boho" actually means!
- Potentially try Gumbo Shop
- When visiting Lafitte's, take someone else as a sacrificial lamb Just kidding.
I really don't want to deal with visiting cemetaries no matter how nice.
Okay, don't post any more advice and confuse me now! When I am back, I won't have time to write a report but I promise to post a photo link for ya.
Good day.
dwooddon, I forgot to thank you for your photo link. New Orleans really is an unusual (in a good way) city in States. Lots of character. ChristieP, thanks for the additional information to put better perspective on Lafittes' location. olesouthernbelle, thank you but I think your ID is cool"er". Just agree with me to not have to argue
J_Correa, my usual morning breakfast is a single toast laden with extra butter and jam, and a glass of OJ. Yes, I have poor standards so far as breakfasts at home and Cafe Du Monde should work No rental car for me. bkluvsnola, Thanks! ronin, I have a hard time combining work with life irrespective of where I am Just kidding (I LOVE my work). Okay, so here is what I pick up from your posts:
- Muffalettas at Napolean House
- Take the streetcar. Once
Just for the hell of it. May be to visit Mandina's on Canal- Consider a ferry from Canal street to Algiers?
- Perhaps visit Louisiana Music Factory
- Walk Frenchmen Street to know what "boho" actually means!
- Potentially try Gumbo Shop
- When visiting Lafitte's, take someone else as a sacrificial lamb
Just kidding. I really don't want to deal with visiting cemetaries no matter how nice.
Okay, don't post any more advice and confuse me now! When I am back, I won't have time to write a report but I promise to post a photo link for ya.
Good day.
Jan 2nd, 2008, 07:37 AM
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it's hipster for bohemian, but what constitutes bohemian in a wide-open playing field!
the cemetary tour from Cafe Beignet (right next to the old police HQ on Royal) is just a nice way to acquaint yourself with the Quarter and the history of the city - I'm sure the "ghost" tour would be just as fun & informative, and happens in the evenings when you'll be free. The guides are always entertaining and chock-full of tips about the area (I took the cemetary tour with friends several years ago & went again with my wife on her first trip). Have a great time choosing, and you'll definitely want to return someday to check the rest of the list off.
btw - did I mention the Rock'n'Bowl at Mid-City Lanes? The only place I've ever bowled a frame while listening to the best of NOLA music!
the cemetary tour from Cafe Beignet (right next to the old police HQ on Royal) is just a nice way to acquaint yourself with the Quarter and the history of the city - I'm sure the "ghost" tour would be just as fun & informative, and happens in the evenings when you'll be free. The guides are always entertaining and chock-full of tips about the area (I took the cemetary tour with friends several years ago & went again with my wife on her first trip). Have a great time choosing, and you'll definitely want to return someday to check the rest of the list off.
btw - did I mention the Rock'n'Bowl at Mid-City Lanes? The only place I've ever bowled a frame while listening to the best of NOLA music!
I like ComfyShoes too!
