Patrick

What a day. After working on a mailing at the Sugden theatre this morning, decided to try the three old Lurcat on Fifth Avenue which has been discussed here recently.
We sat on the "porch". The menu is unusual, mainly "appetizers" and "small plates" both designed to be shared. There is an immense wine list, with maybe a hundred varieties available by the glass (5 oz pour) or by the taste at half the price of a glass (2 oz. pour). Many are really fine wines, so don't be surprised if a taste is $9 or $11 for example.
We ordered an "appetizer" of steak tartare with french fries and a "small plate" of seared tuna. The steak tartare actually would make a nice lunch for one -- very tasty and the fries are sensational, served with a side of bernaise sauce for dipping. But one look told me the tuna was the wrong thing. We were enjoying it, but asked the waiter is this the seared tuna or the tuna tartare? He replied it was the tartare and then said, "oh yes, you ordered the seared tuna. Sorry, my mistake." With that he placed an order for the seared tuna and comped the tuna tartare which was a delicious combination of 1/4 inch diced tuna, very well flavored. When the seared tuna came, it was a tiny plate with 8 quarter sized thin slices of seared rare tuna, fine flavor, but nothing great. And it really seemed skimpy for $13. We learned the most popular lunch item has already become the twin hamburgers. Two hamburgers on buns that are about 3 inches in diameter. I had a cheese plate -- 5 great but very small tastes of cheese ($14 I think). Lee had a "chocolate pudding with chocolate ice cream" that has to be tasted to be believed. It was like eating wonderful fudge batter.
All in all it was good -- but very pricey for what it was, I thought. We spent a little over $80 for lunch for two, and essentially left fairly hungry. And don't forget we had a $12 or so appetizer comped. Lee had a glass of wine, I had two wine tastes.

See Part II below:

Patrick

Now for Baleen. We finally made it to this beachfront restaurant at LaPlaya Resort. We were taken as guests by clients. She actually is quite friendly with the woman who is the head of finance for LaPlaya and this friend made the reservation for us. Oddly enough the reservation was made two weeks ago for tonight, Wednesday the 12 th. Last Wednesday the woman at LaPlaya called our hostess and said since it was raining she was moving us to table inside. Would that be OK? Shocked our hostess said, well that might be OK, but the reservation was for next week! She apologized and said she'd take care of it. So tonight when we arrived, the hostess did have the name but was surprised that there were four of us, the reservation had been made for two people only. No problem. It was not busy, and they seated us outside, right on the beach -- what a gorgeous night it was tonight!

OK, so we got there about two or three minutes before our reserved time at 7 and were seated fairly quickly. We saw our first waiter at 7:20. We were just thinking of getting up to go to the bar to get a drink when he showed up. He apologized and we kidded back and forth. He took our drink order and 15 minutes later returned with the drinks. But of course he had no idea who had ordered what. Our host who orders Stoli on the rocks with a side of a small bottle of sparkling water was a bit taken back when they said the only sparkling water they have is by the liter! He did without as none of us wanted sparkling water and he didn't really want a whole liter to put a splash in his drink. So 35 minutes after sitting we at last had a drink.

The food was wonderful. I can't think of a single complaint. I had arugula, pear, and gorgonzola salad. Our host had an amazing "chopped BLT salad" that came stacked in layers, and looked and tasted wonderful.
My main course was roasted grouper on a bed of bacon & horseradish mashed potatoes (heavy with cream and butter) and sprinkled with a chive and caper viniagrette. It was sensational. Desserts (for two in our group) were termed OK, nothing special.

During the course of our entire meal (we had more drinks and several glasses of wine by the glass) the original unused wine glasses from the table setting were never removed. They were still there when we left. Never once all evening did any server know who had ordered what. There was only one coffee and they even had to ask who had ordered it.

At one point our waiter asked if we were visiting and staying at the hotel. When our hostess said that no we all lived in Naples, he brightly said, "OH, where exactly do you live." Is it just me or is that an incredibly odd question for a waiter to ask his guests -- especially in a class conscious town like Naples?

All in all I'd give the place a near perfect score for food, but a near zero score for service and/or training.
It wasn't cheap, but not as expensive as I had guessed it would be. Will we be going back? Well despite the great food, I doubt it, at least until they get their act together service wise. There are many other places who have equally good food (Syrah in particular for seafoood) that also provide polished service. On the other hand, it was hard to beat that setting on the beach -- nearly full moon, stars, light surf rolling in. Beautiful.

Patrick

By the way, before I get the usual comments from people who have never eaten anywhere fancier than Red Lobster, let me admit that YES THIS IS SUPPOSED TO BE FINE DINING. So rather than say sarcastic things like "oh poor you, having to look at your empty wine glasses" if this post doesn't mean anything to you, please move on to a post that does. Sorry if that sounds rude, but lately I've been seeing an awful lot of that "reverse snobbery" here. Yes, I am a food snob, I'll admit it, so there really is no need in pointing that out. This post is intended for those to whom it might mean something.

LilMsFoodie

Looks like I'll pass for a while of Lurcat. From your description it sounds like a destination for those 20-or30-something "Third Wives" who are so conspicuous in Naples these days, at least in my little world.
I love tasting lots of wines but I don't like "tiny tastes".

On reflection regarding Baleen, the service I have received there has never been as bad as you experienced, but I am not surprised. Good help is very difficult to come by in Naples and Southwest Florida and I believe that La Playa has a European clientele who are probably used to "Service Compris" and tip poorly. That will clear out an establishment quickly of good help no matter how fabulous the restaurant.

That molded cobb salad is my favorite on the menu along with a very different lobster bisque. I had a great dessert last time, I think it was called Monkey in the Middle.

The only complaint I had with my service was that the champagne flute was not chilled. This is a faux pas, especially in Florida where champagne warms quickly. LilMsFoodie is very particular about her champagne and sparkling wine as it is her apertif of choice, always.

I would hope that your client would inform her contact at the hotel of the inappropriate and bumbling service. It would be a shame for such a wonderful venue and menu
to die from poor service. The waiter who asked you where you lived was way out of line. Of course, I dislike familiarity with waitstaff. I like them to be friendly but I do not want to be their friend.

Thanks for your great review.

LMF

Patrick

Yes, not being a dessert eater myself -- deparately trying to avoid the family curse of diabetes via diet -- I didn't indulge. But my sugar went up just listening to the description of "monkey in the middle", a melting chocolate souffle with a ward carmel center. . . " At our table the two much duller choices made were a key lime tart and a blueberry creme brulee (no crust like a true brulee, just a custard really with some blueberries on top).

Patrick

make that "warm caramel center".

And I didn't mean to imply the wine tastes at Lurcat were really all that small. I think 2 oz is kind of standard for wine flights. Here you can create your own flight with three or four 2 oz. pours. Although I tried two red "tastes", a Chilean cabernet and an Italian dolcetto, I would have preferred my partner's full glass of Clos Pegase merlot -- a really exceptional wine. His 5 oz. was $14, my two "tastes" were $11 all together.
And in retrospect I suppose I was high on that estimate of 100 choices by the glass. I think there were maybe 20 to 25 choices in the red category alone however.

LilMsFoodie

I'm used to the 2 oz. wine flights. I was thinking more of the food portions. I enjoy experiementing with the wines and how they affect the flavours of food. Tiny portions don't allow for much fooling around with this.

I was at a fundraiser at that community museum in Naples last week and they had a unique serving method of the appetizers. Everything was served up on small spoons. Gave additional meaning to "just a bite."

I really like the idea of being able to try a decent taste of new or unusual wines. It allows you to try something new without blowing $75 or more on a bottle that is unknown.

jamierin

Hi Patrick and LilMsFoodie -

I really enjoyed your reviews Patrick.

I think that my hubby and I will stick with Campiello and Chops for our trip, along with our third "wild card" evening.

Do give us a report on Bice too once you have been. Is it open yet??

Also, question - is it safe to stroll around Old Naples in the later evening? Are there people walking about at midnight and/or later?

Thanks.

scs

Thanks for the great report, Patrick. I agree that when the service is poor, it really can spoil an otherwise great restaurant - especially when it is not newly opened. Baleen has been open long enough to get its waitstaff together. I'm sure we will return though as we are land-locked here in Atlanta and always love the chance to dine ocean-front.

Patrick

Jamierin, Naples is safe, day or night. Yes, normally Fifth Avenue South is still quite busy at midnight. Pazzo just added entertainmnet till 1 AM I think on Friday and Saturday, adding to the increasing bar hopping night scene along Fifth.

And if the moon is out, it will only be a short walk to the beach for a wonderful midnight stroll.

Bice is not open yet, I think early December is the current goal.

LilMsFoodie

Patrick: is this new Bice related to the Midtown Bice in NYC?

I looked for my comments on my experience and saw that yours were similar.

SNIP "Author: LilMsFoodie
Date: 08/24/2003, 08:44 pm

Message: I was underwhelmed with Bice this week. I had the fresh pasta, cavatelli with a fresh tomato sauce. The room was nice with huge floral arrangements in the center, the bar was very busy but the restaurant wasn't all that crowded and the service was inattentive and lacking. A bottle of good champagne was ordered as an appertif and was left sitting on the service table instead of being iced. When I asked for a cooler to be placed by our table with the champagne I was informed that they didn't have enough for the dining room.

Several well known people arrived to eat. Every one hovered around Harold Ramis and his family as they were apparently regulars. I sure won't be. LMF "

Patrick

Yes, it is part of the same huge but still family owned chain of restaurants. They're adding something like 20 this year alone and are now all over the world. Somebody must like them.

Interestingly a good friend who has been a server for ages at Pazzo was approached by a woman he waited on one evening. She's the generally manager or something similar of the new Bice and encouraged him to come apply there. He went thinking it would be a first class operation. But when he asked questions of the interviewer like, "what will the training schedule be?" he was answered with, "well nothing special. We expect those we hire to already know how to wait tables." My friend was not impressed with the operation.

Since this thread came back up, I must say last night I talked with a couple at a birthday party. They started telling me about the most wonderful meal they had the other evening at Baleen (the night after we were there). They couldn't say enough about both the food AND the service -- simply flawless and totally attentive they said. Guess we got the dud of a waiter.

Patrick

Love the preview function here, if only I would use it.

I think I meant "general manager" not "generally manager".

LLKlein

Patrick and others
Just a note to say how much a appreciate reading this long series of posts. I am the person arriving from Minnesota Christmas Day for 10 days, and it is so fun to have a preview of what to see - and what to avoid. It is also interesting to get a snippet of the class system in Naples. It's interesting to see it from afar, as a bystander.

I had considered Baleen for Christmas Day, as Patrick recommended. Their brunch is with Santa at $40 and dinner appears to be a 4-course set menu at $60. I'm thinking about looking elsewhere.

Once again, thanks for the informative reviews. I will continue reading until we leave.

LilMsFoodie

My husband and I are to be alone this Christmas and rather than staring at each other at home we have chosen to have Christmas dinner at Baleen...very early (like snowbirds) so we can see the sunset. I'll make a report.

I recently recommended Baleen to a particularly well travelled client who is quite demanding on matters of cuisine and wine and he and his group were thrilled with Baleen...although he would have preferred a more extensive wine list.

LMF

LilMsFoodie

Followups to Baleen and Lurcat:

First Lurcat: I had lunch there the week before Christmas and my assessment is that it is primarily a place to see and be seen for the young and trendy: at least I think that this is the crowd the owners of Lurcat (the D'Amico/Campiello restaurant people)are aiming for. LilMsFoodie is not part of this demographic, but I was undeterred.

I had a salad for lunch which was bibb lettuce, shrimp, and mango. It really didn't make it as an entree salad: too tiny, too pallid, too nothing. I had a nice white wine, Loire valley, nothing too complicated which was fine with this. There was a nice selection but I felt the selections did not lend themselves to the "wine flight" concept. It would be difficult to do a tasting of a specific grape (sauvignon blanc for instance) by country (US, NZ, Chile, South Africa, Bordeaux) much less by style. If it develops as a wine bar that will come.

The service was poor from arrival through the check. Very unusual experience for a restaurant from the D'Amico group.

Baleen restaurant at La Playa resort
Yesterday my husband and I had dinner at Baleen. It was a prixe fixe menu at $65 for four courses and our water (I like sparkling water with a meal) and cappuchinos were included in this price. They had special holiday pricing on Tattinger champagnes and I had a bottle of the basic Francais for $48 which is a true bargain.

My husband had butter poached shrimp in a tomato courtbouillon and I had Fois Gras over white aspargras. They were both well prepared.

I had the La Playa Christmas salad which lost a little in translation as the greens were not as crisp as they should have been, but the strawberry dressing was interesting with the pears and mesclun. My husband had a proper Caesar salad with huge crouton and anchovies on the side. He is particular about his Caesar's and this one was perfect to his taste.

Entrees were Grilled Scallops for himself and Lobster tail en croute over sauced crab meat for the Foodie one. Nice baby veggie garnish.

Dessert was a disappointment for me as they didn't have Monkey in the Middle. We had key lime pies as I wanted something a little tart after the lobster. The addition of white chocolate in the key lime cream and white chocolate whipped cream on the side made them a little different but not spectacular.

Good cappuchinos and nice music. We sat outside facing the gulf and watched the sunset and there was a perfect breeze. Our server was friendly and paced the courses in accordance with our wishes. It was a lovely late afternoon meal.

Patrick

Glad you reported back, particularly about Lurcat. I've been waiting for your report. And sorry about the lack of monkey in the middle at Baleen!

Oddly enough, last Sunday evening after the Sugden film series (Nicholas Nickelby) we decided to have a late supper on Fifth. The film wasn't out until about 9:30. Pazzo had stopped serving -- no business, and Chops would only seat us at the bar for appetizers, which sounded fine, but unfortunately there were no seats at the bar and no hope of any soon. We ventured up to Lurcat -- the perfect place for what we wanted we thought, and my mouth was ready for the steak tartare and tuna tartare. Unfortunately, they were closing also -- not a soul there! Now admittedly the week before Christmas is slow here, and Sunday is always the slowest night, but we found it sad we couldn't find a place to eat and it wasn't even 10 PM yet. (Incidentally we also tried Campiello's and Tommy Bahamas -- who had even abandoned their late night menu for the night). We settled on the Dock at Crayton Cove.

But my main point was, this "grazing and wine bar" idea at Lurcat appears not to be working. Every time I go by, whether early afternoon or mid evening, it is deserted! We'll see what happens now that "season" will be starting this next week.

LilMsFoodie

Fifth Avenue was not busy the day I was there, Dec. 17th. I waited for a few minutes at the podium at Lurcat before someone acknowledged me. The porch was full but the indoor area was empty. The server was inept and knew nothing of wine which I consider a huge mistake on the part of the restaurant management.

I'll be curious to see if the D'Amico/Campiello magic will work on this concept.

LMF