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Montrealers in Boston and P-Town: Only 7 Hours By Bus But A World Away

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Montrealers in Boston and P-Town: Only 7 Hours By Bus But A World Away

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Old Jul 17th, 2007, 06:19 AM
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Montrealers in Boston and P-Town: Only 7 Hours By Bus But A World Away

A Canadian friend of mine (who doesn't like to get out of familiar contexts and only travels if somebody else does all the logistics) does not have a passport. By his own admission, he'd been in a bit of a rut lately, what with work stresses and getting over a bad relationship (talking non-stop about his ex-lover, even though he says he's starting to move on). Anyhow, he'd only been to Manhattan and South Beach in the US at 35 years old. Since one can only cross by land these days the Canada-USA border without a passport (this changes Jan. 1, 2008), and knowing that my friend mostly only likes cities, I suggested catching the bus to Boston for a 4-day getaway. While he at first balked, not wanting to take a 7-hour bus ride (or to visit something new; he kept saying, let's go to New York instead), after talking to some coworkers who liked Boston, he thought it might be good for him to travel and ended up saying "yes".

Although my friend was nervous, asking me 10 times if he truly would be ok with no passport and a Canadian citizenship card and birth certificate, crossing the border was fine. I'd never been this route by bus before and enjoyed looking at the picturesque rolling verdant hills in Vermont and the occasional village with wooden clapboard churches tucked in the valleys. Montpelier with the golden topped State Capitol building I found a pretty intermediate stop; hard to believe a charming village such as this is actually a capital.

Arriving in Boston South Station, the first thing my friend remarked upon as we taxied to our hotel was the relative sobriety of the city... in terms of the way people dress and wear their hair to the brick and wood exteriors of homes. "Where are the bohemians?", he asked me. I'd been to Boston once before, years back, staying in a friend's dorm at Harvard, so I did not know.

We were happy with our hotel's location not far from the corner of Mass Ave and Boylston Street (Oasis Guest House). That first day, we walked down Newbury Street (which my friend loved for the shops and outdoor terrasses) all the way to the Public Gardens. It was there, in the civilized somehow European-seeming public gardens, soaking in the genteel surroundings with the swan boats pedalling on the lake, admiring the tastefully arranged gardens and statues, that I declared that I thought I preferred Boston to New York City (I like NY but find the pace and size of Boston is more my speed; vibrant but not overwhelming). Later that day, as my friend and I walked back to our hotel through the Union Park Square area in South End with its charming brick rowhomes and courtyards, streetcorner restaurants on Shawmut Street, I was surprised to hear him declare that he too thought he preferred Boston (knowing how much he'd liked NYC).

Continuing appreciation of Boston to come... (Even though I'd been once before, this trip I really got to know my way around the city much better).

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Old Jul 17th, 2007, 06:58 AM
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What a delightful trip report so far ! So glad you loved our city - can't wait to hear more -
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Old Jul 17th, 2007, 06:59 AM
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looking forward to more installments of your trip report.
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Old Jul 17th, 2007, 09:35 AM
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Friday July 13. Met up with a friend for lunch in Chinatown, then walked portions of the Freedom Trail (with longer stops in the Old Granary Burying Ground and the Old South Meeting House), finishing up in the North End area of Boston.

Saturday July 14. We walked along a grassy bike-pathed section of Charles River between Mass Ave. and Arlington St., and we both loved watching the sailboats that liberally dotted the Charles. Met up with 2 friends at Park Street "T" and took subway out to Cambridge to walk the hallowed grounds of the Harvard University Campus and then walked along the river between Meeks Bridge and Western Ave.

WARNING-->Foolishly by the Charles, my friend threw a few crackers at a herd of Canada geese; shortly after, the geese starting to approach us by the tens. The geese did not *seem* vicious but really persistent (and perhaps a bit hungry) and came within maybe a foot of us (they could smell our fear LOL), much closer than I thought wild birds would approach. Truth be told, while the geese were borderline scary, we laughed about it later.

Throughout these perambulations, the relatively undecorated Bostonian clothing and building style seemed to explain itself to my friend by his observation of the Puritan Protestant history at the Old South Meeting House, the relative simplicity of the graves at the Old Granary Burying Ground and the suprisingly-unornate-to-my-friend nature of most of the historied buildings throughout Harvard campus (Memorial Hall is a huge ornate exception). This presence of a more stark religious past, where elaborate decoration and intricacies were considered excessive and sinful... all this led to my friend's theory that the Puritan past lingered in the lack of extravagance and overall simplicity of present-day apparel to his eye of many Bostonians, despite the onset of multiculturalism and modern appliances.

Don't think though that all these commentaries meant my friend was turning off of the city. Au contraire, he loved especially the parks by the Charles River (minus the goose poop) in both Boston and Cambridge and even found the "less ornate"-ness aspect fascinating.

Thanks to Fodorite recommendation on seafood restaurants, we went to Union Oyster House for supper one night, with the two friends. All diners splurged in oysters, shrimp and clams. We'd never heard of, so discovered what littlenecks and cherrystones are, and all especially loved the cherrystone variety of (clam, oyster?) shellfish (with horseradish and red sauce!). We had a rollicking good time in this founded-in-1826 restaurant (with a bit of help from Sam Adams Summer Ale); I especially enjoyed the chowdah .

One of the friends (Montrealer moved to Boston) lives in North End. We found the narrow, curvy, Old Worldy streets with lots of people-life at night especially reminded us of Europe in this part of town.

Provincetown to come... DAN
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Old Jul 17th, 2007, 10:11 AM
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Yes, those Canada geese are aggressive and scary. Would you please take them back home with you: ;-)
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Old Jul 17th, 2007, 10:27 AM
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just wonderful -waiting for more...
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Old Jul 17th, 2007, 02:08 PM
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yes, cherrystones and littlenecks are both varieties of clam. I think cherrystones are the best!
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Old Jul 17th, 2007, 03:59 PM
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Great trip report -- keep it going.
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Old Jul 18th, 2007, 07:35 AM
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Yeah, after my friend threw those crackers igniting the subsequent terrifying turn of events , the geese were so close that I could pet them. I was half-tempted to as one of them approached me with these plaintive love-me goo-goo eyes, but was afraid of the consequences of petting the goose (poor thing was probably starved for affection LOL).

Sunday July 15. Anyhow, we got up bright and early to catch the ferry out to Provincetown. The Bay State Ferry line (leaving the World Trade Center at 8am)was repairing their fast-ferry due to technical difficulties, but luckily for us, Boston Harbor Cruises also offered a fast ferry to P-Town at 9am.

The ride out was every bit worth the $70 round trip, as you pass by some lighthoused islands and some charming-looking mainland communities like Hull. Arriving in Provincetown is quite exciting as one approaches the narrow spit of land that is the end of Cape Cod. At first, the picturesque narrow spit is mostly barren with sandy shores surrounding central grassy dunes and a lighthouse. Then one turns a corner to see the marina and protected harbour that is Provincetown. The ferry ride is a real beauty and is worth doing even if P-Town is not to one's taste.

A shack nearby the dock with black-and-white photos of (Lesbian?) foremothers and rainbow flags augur that one is entering a Gay men AND Lesbian-friendly space in Provincetown. Even as a Gay man, I could not help but feel a certain sadness that this village was being overrun and transformed into a mostly-urban-Lesbigay-by-the-hordes tourist destination. I imagine looking at the charming wooden homes and gardens that it was once a quieter place with a truly away-from-the-bustle appeal. I wonder that founded as an artist's colony, word of the general openness and accepting nature of Provincetowners spread and gradually morphed the town into the mass-marketed place it is today.

All this said, despite the mobs, wooden shingled restaurants, cafes and antique stores line Commercial Street and may appeal. The marina and Pilgrim Monument create a lovely backdrop as one explores. We enjoyed some seafood at Bubala's outdoor terrasse (nice views of the marina from inside). And even though it took us a half-hour to walk there by road, sand and water-filled valleys between the dunes, swimming and wave-surfing in the salty Atlantic Ocean at Herring Cove Beach awaited us as our reward. My friend was in heaven and stated that he would be coming back and spending longer in P-town some day as our few hours at the beach was not enough for him. (Plus, I think he wanted to go to the Tea Dances in hopes of meeting a husband LOL .)

Back in Boston, we were impressed by the food our last night at dimly lit Franklin's Cafe on Shawmut (loved my haddock with asparagus and my friend was in heaven with his Angus steak). As we sat at Whole Foods on Edgerly the next morning (what a great store BTW), my friend was almost emotionally thankful that I had convinced him to come to Boston and P-Town, opening his eyes to something different.

Thanks to Bostonians for all the individual contributions each of you make to make your city a great place to visit!

Best wishes, DAN
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Old Jul 18th, 2007, 07:44 AM
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Oh, Franklin Cafe is a favorite of ours - glad you enjoyed it, and your entire trip. The only part that bugs my husband is no dessert !

You described the approach to PTown perfectly - and yes, as I have witnessed some of the changes over the past 30 yrs and more , but am glad you were able to wander off the main street and see some of those spots that make it more than just a touristy main street destination , because PTown has a lot more to offer than just that -

but isn't that what happens to so many great spots - one always has to veer a tad off the beaten path when any city, town, or special spot has become a 'tourist spot' - but then again, tourist spots are good things too b/c it means more and more people are getting a chance to see something that people thougth worth sharing.

Hope you return again to Boston/Cape and see more the next time- we aren't that far away !
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Old Jul 18th, 2007, 07:47 AM
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Dan:

What a nice trip report. I'm glad you both enjoyed yourselves here.

Too bad you were only day trippers to PT -- it really is a great long weekend spot. When I go to PT, tea dance and the beach at Herring Cove are two highlights of any trip for me. I'm happy to say I'll be going to PT the first weekend in August.

The Canada Day/July 4th weekend might be of particular interest to you and your friend as we get plenty of Canadian visitors down in PT that weekend. I always enjoy the Montrealers I meet. (Oddly, I don't notice nearly as many Ontarians -- maybe they just blend in more?)

Next time you go, plan on spending at least a weekend and possibly four days in PT. Get a room at a B&B, rent a bike and go for long rides on the bike path through the National Seashore, spend the day at Herring Cove, wander around the shops and galleries, try a few restaurants, check out the A-House or the various bars at the Crown. Of course, attend tea.

I'm also glad you discovered the Franklin Cafe on Shawmut. It's kind of a hidden gem. I've always had a good meal there.

Kudos on the great report!

Liam
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Old Jul 18th, 2007, 07:58 AM
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Love your report and especially your writing style.

Glad you liked B+P towns. 2 of my favorites. I, like you, do enjoy Boston more than the more famous NY,as I find it much more do-able.

As P-town is right up the street from my beach cottage in Truro (you must have rode by on the ferry (next
time give a wave and stop by for a drink)
At any rate, I'm glad you enjoyed,
as so many others simply only see the
center of town. One must see the surrounding beauty to appreciate. I hope you saw the sunset at Herring Cove.

As for gay men versus lesbians, your observant, as there are sometimes more women than men at times and definetly more now than 10 years ago.

There are however (usually) more men out at night than women. Also, try to come next time when it's mens week or other man/gay weeks - perhaps you'll find your desired husband.
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Old Jul 18th, 2007, 11:48 AM
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Escargot-- Yes, in Provincetown, it's true, I enjoyed getting off of Commercial Street and seeing the various side streets that connected it to Bradford Street. (My friend I think liked the commercially bit more.) On Bradford, we walked along all the way down to Province Lands Road and up toward the beach entryway in the Cape Cod National Seashore Park...pretty secluded.

Liam--I think I would rent a bike next time as I love to cycle (my friend didn't want to, claiming poor equilibrium), which would cover the distances more effectively... I was pleased to see there appear to be plenty of cycling paths. Thanks also for the bar suggestions.

Escargot & Liam-- Stumbled on Franklin's Cafe by accident... we'd had sangria our first night at Pop's on Tremont near Union Park and thought we wanted something in the same area. We were being indecisive but when we saw the martini glass on the door (my friend loves martinis) and walked in, we *KNEW* that Franklin's was *THE* perfect place to cap off a great journey (and did not regret... BTW if you've not had it, the fish-corn chowder appetizer they serve was divine!).

Cybor-- Sunset at Herring Cove and Truro are great reasons to return say I (we missed both)!

Anyhow, I'm glad we went before the land border passport requirement set in... hopefully this terrific Boston/P-Town trip has given incentive enough for my friend to get one!

Best wishes to all--DAN
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Old Jul 25th, 2007, 09:12 AM
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Just one more thought on my trip.

A friend of mine here asked me if I heard a "Boston" accent while visiting. Although one Bostonian on Fodor's as a pet peeve mentioned that "we do not say Hahvahd Yahd here!", I must say I did occasionally hear the accent, although it really was a bit of a sporadic thing, for example The Bay Ferries person sending me to "Lahng Whahf", a bus driver.

I don't really understand why some people would consider it something negative to have this accent, as I think diversity in accents is cool personally and actually like the sound of the New England cadence and stresses. I wonder, though, with the genericizing of the "American" accent through TV and Internet and people willing to uproot themselves thousands of miles due to globalization for the right job, if these accents will soon be something of the past. I've noticed that whether it be New York City, Boston, Nova Scotia, and even to some degree the US South, that the regional accents seem much less prevalent in the younger generations especially, although are persisting to a small degree. Maybe a trivial point, but I find it a tad sad.

Anyhow as far as that "Hahvahd Yahd" accent, I'm curious if anyone has thoughts on who still DOES speak that way? People 40 and older? People from working class areas in Boston? Multigenerational Bostonians? Or is it only folks from other, less populated areas in New England? I'd love to read any thoughts even from the most amateur of sociologists .

Best wishes and still having fond memories of my trip! DAN
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Old Jul 25th, 2007, 10:50 AM
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Of course we still say Hahv'd Yahd. You're more likely to hear local accents in blue-collar neighborhoods where several generations have lived, such as in South Boston or parts of Dorchester (um, Dotchestah).

Also, there are many Bostonians whose speech is sanitized for everyday use but who will revert to ancestral dialects when suitably provoked or agitated. This is most easily seen at sporting events, but can also be observed at weddings, funerals, graduations, etc.
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Old Jul 25th, 2007, 11:10 AM
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Dan,

Lovely report. Your trip reports (and other postings) are always a pleasure.
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Old Jul 25th, 2007, 11:11 AM
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So glad I found this , Daniel!
Another entertaining trip report..I hope you always travel and always tell us all about it Scarlett
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Old Jul 25th, 2007, 07:19 PM
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Thanks anon, bardo, Scarlett!

You know, I work all those other days of the year in order TO travel (dreaming and concocting the next getaway constantly, some that come to fruition and others that dont'). As long as I'm on this earth and am able, I will be travelling (or planning the next adventure). Oddly enough, posting a trip report on Fodor's and sharing is something I strangely can't seem to stop myself from doing; oddly almost a priority when I return from a trip!? The desire to share the experience with the few people who are interested, even if it's only a half-dozen or so, I feel a compelling almost-beyond-my-control desire (duty?) to write short after returning from a trip.(!?)

P.S. Keep enjoying Buenos Aires!
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Old Jul 29th, 2007, 12:26 PM
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Daniel--

I feel compelled to write and thank you for enjoying our city/area and for sharing your great report with many. I've enjoyed just sitting here, reading it and noting all of the spots that I've been.

As to the accent issue, I totally agree with Anonymous that it is rare to hear the accent in areas of newcomers (less than 25 years!) or privilege (although the old wealth has it's own Brahmin accent). Even those of us who have lived here for over 20 years are occasionally taken aback at someone's thick accent. But it is uniquely Boston and most commonly associated with East and South Boston areas (and Dotchesta!).

We visit Ptown fairly often as we go to the Cape for vacation. I love the natural areas (especially the bike path route) and my husband just loves the harbor. So it's a fun spot to visit.

Come back and visit us soon. Time to get a passport!
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Old Jul 29th, 2007, 04:17 PM
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The photographs of the 5 elder women as you come into Provincetown Harbor have nothing to do with Lesbian women. They were the matriachs of 5 well-know Portuguese fishing families of Provincetown. Four have passed on, I believe one is still living. There is far more to the old history of Provincetown than the more or less recent gay community.
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