We just returned from 2 weeks in Hawaii, staying 8 days on Oahu, 4 on Maui and 3 on Molokai. I'm just going to report on Molokai since I found very little information on this forum about this island and thought others might want some up to date information.

We caught the ferry, Molokai Princess, at Lahaina for their 6:00PM departure and were surprised to find that we were 5 passengers out of only 20 or so booked. We began the trip topside and were rewarded with beautiful views of Lahaina as we left, the outline of Molokai before us, and a beautiful sunset. About 1/2 hour into the 2 hour trip, the seas began to get rough. Although we all felt a little queasy, no one had to lean over the side. We arrived on Molokai in the dark so couldn't see the island. Our taxi driver (Midnite Taxi) was there to take us to our beachside house, Happy House through VRBO. (We arrived after Alamo had closed, so couldn't get our rental until the next day) Our 3 bedroom house was right on the ocean about 4 miles E of Kaunakakai, with tons of coconut palms.

The next day we enjoyed the beach and our wonderful porch overlooking the ocean. We picked up our rental car and headed off to discover the island. Kaunakakai was just as I'd pictured it, not a stop light in sight. We found a little restaurant and ordered up saimin.

After walking around a bit we got back in the car and headed north stopping at the coffee plantation. There wasn't much there except a store and cafe. We headed on to Pala'au State Park and the Kalaupapa Lookout overlooking the peninsula which was used to contain patients of Hansen's Disease. (Everyone on the island was excited about the upcoming saint hood of Father Damien.) We decided not to make the long mule trip into the valley. It cost about $180.00 pp. We did take a short hike through the pine trees to an interesting stone, phallic symbol.

For dinner that night we went to Kualapuu Cookhouse which I had read was a "must see" experience. We expected large crowds for their Thurs. night prime rib special, but the picnic tables were comfortably filled. We did make the mistake of not bring our own wine and the store next door was closed. ( My DH was not happy...) There were a few other tourist there , but most were locals. Actually, there were very few tourists where ever we went on the island. A 3 man combo was outside with us playing a washtub base and ukeleles. I think they were being paid with beer because they were feeling no pain. Whenever they took a break they would wander by our table, sit down and chat. Luckily we weren't there for a romantic dinner and we enjoyed their conversation. Toward the end of the night they all came over and serenaded us. To sum it up the food was great and we were treated to a lot of local color.

Friday coming up.

Looking forward to following along on the rest of your Molokai trip. Thanks for the journey so far.

On Friday we planned to drive to the eastern end of the island,Halawa Bay. Along the way we saw several of the Hawaiian fishponds, ancient rock wall enclosures used to raise and catch fish. Several fishermen were at work. Another stop was at St. Joseph's Church, built by Father Damien in 1876. As we drove east the seaside road turned into cliffside as we meandered into the mountains. Views rivaled those found on the Hana highway. We spotted 2 blowholes which people were hiking down to. They were every bit as gusty as the one on Oahu. After a long stretch of white sand beach our road crossed the tip Molokai and brought us to the north side of the island and the end of the road. During the entire drive we probably encountered 10 other tourists.

There is a public park at Halawa Bay and a beautiful black sand beach. It was quite windy and we decided not to swim, but had a picnic lunch and watched surfers. To get back to our house we had to retrace our drive, but it was just as beautiful the second time around.

In the evening we decided to eat at the other recommended "must do" restaurant, Hula Shores at Hotel Molokai. We arrived in time for the sunset and were pleased to find a large group of locals, "aunties" sitting at a long table having a jam session. They all had sheet music, ukeleles, and a washtub base. Some danced, others sang. After about an hour they gathered everyone in the restaurant together to hold hands and sing Aloha Oie.

We had drinks at the restaurant which were mediocre to horrible (pina colada) and I had read that the food was expensive and average. We decided to try a spot in town, Molokai Pizza cafe. It was a very cute spot for sandwich type food. Back to our house and bed!

Sat. was our last day. Kanakakai was having a farmer's market. They offered many types of fruit and vegetables as well as some unique crafts. We returned the rental to the airport and waited to board our plane to Oahu. We used Mokulele Airline. We were the only passengers in the airport until about 5 min. before departure when the only other passenger arrived. All 6 of us got on the plane and filled up all the seats. The 30 min flight was scenic and smooth. When we arrived they took our luggage out of the hold and we carried it off the tarmac. Welcome to Oahu!

Some final thoughts on Molokai. I grew up on Oahu in the 50s and each time I return to any of the islands I look for the Hawaii I once knew. That is Molokai. The towns are small and homey, coconut trees are everywhere, and the beaches are vacant. It is a very low key existence. Their motto is, "If you're in a hurry, you are on the wrong island". Everyone we met was friendly. There were very few tourists.

We did not have time to see the west end of the island where the best beaches and some condo complexes are popping up. Perhaps I would have a different view of Molokai if I had spent all my time there. If you are looking for a true Hawaiian experience, go the Molokai.

Thank you for the trip report. I want to go to Molokai in the next year or so. I've been reading about Father Damien, and his relic is going to be making a tour through Hawaii and on to Molokai, so I'm hoping to experience that.

I love it when I listen to Hawaiian music as you describe, with the extended families playing, singing, and dancing.

What would you think about staying at the Hotel Molokai?

Hotel Molokai is in a good location. The grounds are tightly packed with clusters of bungalows. We talked to a person who was staying there and he had upgraded to an ocean view and was thrilled with it. I think the hotel was showing its age and we were not pleased with the cocktails and expensive menu. Also the beach in that area is a brownish color due to the reef (in Oct. at least). I would try VRBO and see what you can get in the way of a condo or house. Good luck.