Missypie's Belated Trip Report: Grand Canyon Hike & Phantom Ranch Review
Jun 24th, 2009, 02:19 PM
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LairenKahn1, I posted about this on another message board and someone said that their 72 year old aunt had done it!
What is wild is that so many "casual hikers" (the ones in street shoes, with no water, carrying a sack of souvineers from the gift shop) hike down the first couple of miles on the Bright Angel Trail, then back up...that is one of the most grueling parts of the entire hike! If you go down to Indian Gardens and back up, you might as well do the whole thing because that is the most difficult part anyway.
What is wild is that so many "casual hikers" (the ones in street shoes, with no water, carrying a sack of souvineers from the gift shop) hike down the first couple of miles on the Bright Angel Trail, then back up...that is one of the most grueling parts of the entire hike! If you go down to Indian Gardens and back up, you might as well do the whole thing because that is the most difficult part anyway.
Jun 24th, 2009, 03:02 PM
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Age is not a factor so long as you are fit enough.
I led a group of 12 on a rim to rim hike (with one night at Phantom Ranch) last September. The youngest person on the hike was 52; two were in their early 70's (72 and 74). Those last two were among the first to the top, hiking up from the bottom of the canyon on the Bright Angel trail in 5 hours.
I led a group of 12 on a rim to rim hike (with one night at Phantom Ranch) last September. The youngest person on the hike was 52; two were in their early 70's (72 and 74). Those last two were among the first to the top, hiking up from the bottom of the canyon on the Bright Angel trail in 5 hours.
Jun 24th, 2009, 06:01 PM
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Congratulations to you and your family for this great accomplishment! This trip has been on my "travel list" for quite some time, although I'd like to do the mule trip too!
After reading about your experience, I definitely would want a cabin too! The thought of bunking it while wide awake scares me! I already spend enough sleepless nights in my own bed these days, lol!!
Thanks for posting this enjoyable trip report!
After reading about your experience, I definitely would want a cabin too! The thought of bunking it while wide awake scares me! I already spend enough sleepless nights in my own bed these days, lol!!
Thanks for posting this enjoyable trip report!
Jun 25th, 2009, 06:03 AM
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There is one set of bunks in an alcove that are apart from the others. My daughters got those. They slept soundly. I certainly wouldn't avoid the trip just because of the bunkhouse experience. It is just such a small part of the trip. However, I admit that I wouldn't have wanted to have spent a secnd night there.
Another thing I would add, at the risk of being branded a complainer: bring your own food for the hike out - don't rely on their "sack lunch" - at least don't rely on their sack. I had their extremely cheap sack strapped to my pack, but it had things in it with points (e.g. the package of cream cheese) and the point wore a hole in the sack by the time I had walked about a block!
The sack lunch had raisins, a bagel with cream cheese, an apple and a couple of other things (perhaps $3 worth of food for $11.21). It wasn't terrible, but you need to consume so many calories for the trip up that it would make more sense to pack your own high calorie energy bars, etc.
Another thing I would add, at the risk of being branded a complainer: bring your own food for the hike out - don't rely on their "sack lunch" - at least don't rely on their sack. I had their extremely cheap sack strapped to my pack, but it had things in it with points (e.g. the package of cream cheese) and the point wore a hole in the sack by the time I had walked about a block!
The sack lunch had raisins, a bagel with cream cheese, an apple and a couple of other things (perhaps $3 worth of food for $11.21). It wasn't terrible, but you need to consume so many calories for the trip up that it would make more sense to pack your own high calorie energy bars, etc.
Jul 5th, 2009, 12:51 PM
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I've been away so I'm just now catching up. Enzian and missypie thanks for your comments. My husband and I discussed the points both of you made and our lodging choice would probably be in the following order: 1) the impossible to get cabins 2) camping 3) the dorms. I'm the only girl in our family of four so I would be in the dorm be myself, which doesn't sound like too much fun.
Enzian, are the campsites shaded? I would go crazy if I got to the bottom and then was baking in the hot sun for a couple of hours.
Missypie, great tip about the sack lunch. If we do this in spring 2011, I'll have two teenage boys who will need MUCH more food than what you described. They'll probably each need a jar of peanut butter in their pack along with other snacks.
Enzian, are the campsites shaded? I would go crazy if I got to the bottom and then was baking in the hot sun for a couple of hours.
Missypie, great tip about the sack lunch. If we do this in spring 2011, I'll have two teenage boys who will need MUCH more food than what you described. They'll probably each need a jar of peanut butter in their pack along with other snacks.
Jul 5th, 2009, 04:20 PM
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wtm---yes, the campsites at Bright Angel are shaded. They are strung out along the creek, under the cottonwood trees. There is a path down the middle, and campsites on the side without creek frontage are also shaded by the cliffs rising above, in late afternoon. It is really very pleasant there.
Did I mention that you can send your camping gear down on the mules in a duffle? They will take 30 pounds of gear---most of what you need for camping---for $60. Since the campsite is very inexpensive, it still works out pretty well.
Just be aware that Phantom Ranch and the campsites are booked at different times and through different systems---Phantom Ranch through Xanterra, first day of the month a year in advance, and campsites through the backcountry office at the National Park:
http://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisi...try-permit.htm
To camp in April (when we have gone on two occasions) you fax your permit request on December 1 the previous year---five months in advance.
Another option is to do what I did last time---find some friends to go with you and book the group cabin at Phantom---you need 10 people for that. Then at least you are among friends!
Did I mention that you can send your camping gear down on the mules in a duffle? They will take 30 pounds of gear---most of what you need for camping---for $60. Since the campsite is very inexpensive, it still works out pretty well.
Just be aware that Phantom Ranch and the campsites are booked at different times and through different systems---Phantom Ranch through Xanterra, first day of the month a year in advance, and campsites through the backcountry office at the National Park:
http://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisi...try-permit.htm
To camp in April (when we have gone on two occasions) you fax your permit request on December 1 the previous year---five months in advance.
Another option is to do what I did last time---find some friends to go with you and book the group cabin at Phantom---you need 10 people for that. Then at least you are among friends!
Jul 5th, 2009, 06:42 PM
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"People hike the South Kaibab for the views of the canyon...very expansive. What blew me away was how green it was. You think of brown and red stones when you think of the GC, but lower down it is very green. It took us 6 hours to go down....some folks make it in 2-4 hours. I didn't think we were hiking particularly slowly....the path varies...lots of gravel, bigger rocks, logs to step on or over. I really don't see how folks hike quickly and maintain their footing.
We arrived at Phantom Ranch at about 3 pm. When you're down there, you can't see "the Grand Canyon"....you're just in a shady gorge by a creek."
We've done a lot of traveling through the canyons and western USA, and yet I still don't really understood the appeal of this trip, at least as a travel experience.
I applaud you OP, for your honest assessment of the trip. To gaze upon the GC is spectacular, as are many of the hikes.
But I'm still mystified why some go to the extent needed to reach the bottom, especially if you're constantly watching your footing and not the vast beauty, and then discovering at the bottom that it is like "you're just in a shady gorge by a creek".
So is the appeal directly related to the physical challenge more than as a travel experience? I don't believe we've ever been congratulated on any of our travels, although it sounds like this type of experience definitely qualifies!
We arrived at Phantom Ranch at about 3 pm. When you're down there, you can't see "the Grand Canyon"....you're just in a shady gorge by a creek."
We've done a lot of traveling through the canyons and western USA, and yet I still don't really understood the appeal of this trip, at least as a travel experience.
I applaud you OP, for your honest assessment of the trip. To gaze upon the GC is spectacular, as are many of the hikes.
But I'm still mystified why some go to the extent needed to reach the bottom, especially if you're constantly watching your footing and not the vast beauty, and then discovering at the bottom that it is like "you're just in a shady gorge by a creek".
So is the appeal directly related to the physical challenge more than as a travel experience? I don't believe we've ever been congratulated on any of our travels, although it sounds like this type of experience definitely qualifies!
Jul 5th, 2009, 08:58 PM
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"But I'm still mystified why some go to the extent needed to reach the bottom, especially if you're constantly watching your footing and not the vast beauty, and then discovering at the bottom that it is like "you're just in a shady gorge by a creek". "
Well, I'd say that our views of this hike differ. I have found it incredibly beautiful every step of the way---that's why we have done it three times. You don't have to constantly watch your footing; there are places where you do and many where you don't. And in between you can always stop and marvel.
And at the bottom, I'd have to disagree that you are "just in a shady gorge by a creek". It's a gorge 4,500 feet deep that few people have the privilege of seeing. . . And on the way, you pass through millions and millions of years of rock strata, changing color layer by layer, and several different eco-zones. The whole thing is fantastic. And if you want to see the "whole canyon" from the bottom, just walk out to the Colorado and look up. Or stand in certain areas around Phantom---in the right spot you can see up to the South Rim lodges, oh so far away.
As for why some of us "go to the extent" to reach the bottom---it is partly for the challenge, but also for the love of the place. Maybe that is hard for some to understand.
spirobulldog---some have reported that there is one cabin for hikers (but I've never actually confirmed that with Xanterra). The other cabins are as you say reserved for mule riders, unless near the time they haven't filled them. But if you call 13 months in advance as a hiker, you are likely to be offered only the dorms.
Well, I'd say that our views of this hike differ. I have found it incredibly beautiful every step of the way---that's why we have done it three times. You don't have to constantly watch your footing; there are places where you do and many where you don't. And in between you can always stop and marvel.
And at the bottom, I'd have to disagree that you are "just in a shady gorge by a creek". It's a gorge 4,500 feet deep that few people have the privilege of seeing. . . And on the way, you pass through millions and millions of years of rock strata, changing color layer by layer, and several different eco-zones. The whole thing is fantastic. And if you want to see the "whole canyon" from the bottom, just walk out to the Colorado and look up. Or stand in certain areas around Phantom---in the right spot you can see up to the South Rim lodges, oh so far away.
As for why some of us "go to the extent" to reach the bottom---it is partly for the challenge, but also for the love of the place. Maybe that is hard for some to understand.
spirobulldog---some have reported that there is one cabin for hikers (but I've never actually confirmed that with Xanterra). The other cabins are as you say reserved for mule riders, unless near the time they haven't filled them. But if you call 13 months in advance as a hiker, you are likely to be offered only the dorms.
Jul 6th, 2009, 08:03 AM
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"And at the bottom, I'd have to disagree that you are "just in a shady gorge by a creek". It's a gorge 4,500 feet deep that few people have the privilege of seeing. . . And on the way, you pass through millions and millions of years of rock strata, changing color layer by layer, and several different eco-zones. The whole thing is fantastic. And if you want to see the "whole canyon" from the bottom, just walk out to the Colorado and look up. Or stand in certain areas around Phantom---in the right spot you can see up to the South Rim lodges, oh so far away."
Just to clarify, I was quoting the OP when I wrote ""just in a shady gorge by a creek"" Your additional description enzian makes it a bit more appealing to me personally.
We do 'love it' there also, and since we're young and fit, I'm sure we'll attempt it someday. Until then, especially with youngish children, there are too many other things we want to see and do. After reading this review, if we do go, we'll definitely find a way for our family to stay together. Vacations are all about bonding; we have the rest of the year to go our separate ways.
I still appreciate the OP's candid review, including the negatives. That's not always the case on other forums.
Just to clarify, I was quoting the OP when I wrote ""just in a shady gorge by a creek"" Your additional description enzian makes it a bit more appealing to me personally.
We do 'love it' there also, and since we're young and fit, I'm sure we'll attempt it someday. Until then, especially with youngish children, there are too many other things we want to see and do. After reading this review, if we do go, we'll definitely find a way for our family to stay together. Vacations are all about bonding; we have the rest of the year to go our separate ways.
I still appreciate the OP's candid review, including the negatives. That's not always the case on other forums.
Jul 6th, 2009, 08:43 AM
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It's actually a great family trip, with kids 12 and up, as long as they are active (participate in some kind of sports). Our daughter went with us when she was 14; her sports are cross-country and tennis, and she was just fine with the hike---no fatigue or soreness. She loved it, especially the photography opportunities, and camping out by the creek. We saw desert bighorn sheep by the trail on the way up, and then got caught in a snowstorm, all of which gave her lots to talk about afterward.
I wrote a trip report on that hike with our daughter, as well as the next one we did with a group of friends. You'll note from that one that it's not necessary to be "young and fit", just "fit".
I wrote a trip report on that hike with our daughter, as well as the next one we did with a group of friends. You'll note from that one that it's not necessary to be "young and fit", just "fit".
Jul 8th, 2009, 06:41 AM
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Enzian is obviously a camping enthusiast, which is terific. If you are NOT a happy camper, don't think that camping will be fun just because you are at the bottom of the Grand Canyon. I'm not trying to dim anyone's enthusiasm, but if you are like me and think that camping is a couple of steps away from hell, don't think you will love it because of the location. Just make an honest self-assessment before you decide which way to go.
Jul 25th, 2009, 06:31 PM
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I just found your trip report. When I got to the part where you deadpanned that you lost the will to live, what can I say, everyone in the house wanted to see what was making me laugh so hard.
I like others appreciate your candid views - and no, I didn't get the sense that you didn't enjoy it, just that you were trying to ensure that those who do this know what to expect, which is invaluable advice.
As I am an extremely light sleeper, this means I wouldn't sleep, exactly, in the bunkhouse; rather I'd lie awake and imagine certain scenes out of "the Shining." Even at our own wilderness cabin where there's not a (human) soul around for miles, I use earplugs: if I can't hear those mysterious scratching and thumping sounds outside at night, I sleep a heckuva lot better. (I still remember reading, by the light of the kerosene lantern, "Silence of the Lambs" and at a critical point, a dead moth fell from the ceiling....
I like others appreciate your candid views - and no, I didn't get the sense that you didn't enjoy it, just that you were trying to ensure that those who do this know what to expect, which is invaluable advice.
As I am an extremely light sleeper, this means I wouldn't sleep, exactly, in the bunkhouse; rather I'd lie awake and imagine certain scenes out of "the Shining." Even at our own wilderness cabin where there's not a (human) soul around for miles, I use earplugs: if I can't hear those mysterious scratching and thumping sounds outside at night, I sleep a heckuva lot better. (I still remember reading, by the light of the kerosene lantern, "Silence of the Lambs" and at a critical point, a dead moth fell from the ceiling....
Jul 26th, 2009, 05:14 PM
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Sue, thanks for your nice words. I'm glad you took the report in the spirit in which it was offered. I must admit that in the bunk I was convincing myself that mass murderers probably aren't the type to hike down and up the Grand Canyon and that the murderess would have to be in awfully good shape to be able to make a getaway...
Jul 26th, 2009, 06:44 PM
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I enjoyed your trip report, too. My husband and I rode mules down about 10 years ago and that remains one of our most memorable travel experiences. Thankfully, we were in a cabin by ourselves and it was quite comfortable. But having survived a week at overnite skateboard/gymnastics camp in a cabin with 13 girls and 2 other women, I totally understand your feelings about the bunkhouse! (Although that experience probably prepared me for what you did in the GC).
It is my strong opinion: you must get IN the Grand Canyon. Even going down a mile or two changes your perspective dramatically. We visited the Grand Canyon after first visiting Zion and Bryce. I admit that my first view of the canyon from around the point seemed unremarkable after all the amazing canyon scenery we had seen earlier in the week. But boy, once we got down a little bit into the canyon it was just amazing.
And the bottom was something I can't describe. It was amazing to look up at the canyon walls. Sometimes I think I have a low boredom threshold and need to be doing something at all times (although I'm getting a lot better at doing nothing as I get older!), but I was so content to just sit in the bottom and take in the scenery. I know this might sound really corny, but I felt really at peace and serene. Inside the canyon is really a unique and marvelous place.
It is my strong opinion: you must get IN the Grand Canyon. Even going down a mile or two changes your perspective dramatically. We visited the Grand Canyon after first visiting Zion and Bryce. I admit that my first view of the canyon from around the point seemed unremarkable after all the amazing canyon scenery we had seen earlier in the week. But boy, once we got down a little bit into the canyon it was just amazing.
And the bottom was something I can't describe. It was amazing to look up at the canyon walls. Sometimes I think I have a low boredom threshold and need to be doing something at all times (although I'm getting a lot better at doing nothing as I get older!), but I was so content to just sit in the bottom and take in the scenery. I know this might sound really corny, but I felt really at peace and serene. Inside the canyon is really a unique and marvelous place.
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