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Late May in Downeast Maine

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Late May in Downeast Maine

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Old Jun 2nd, 2024 | 03:09 AM
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Late May in Downeast Maine

We lucked out when an acquaintance posted on Facebook that she had weeks available to rent at the rustic ocean front cottage she had inherited from her grandmother. By the time dh contacted her the only week left was the last week in May. This was our first real vacation together in years and we were no longer the healthy active people we used to be. The cottage location was Surry which meant driving thru Ellsworth sprawl to get to Acadia. There were also the changes that had taken place since a 1997 family visit when our then teenage son had bicycled to the top of Cadillac where only a few other people were sightseeing. Due to frequent cruise ship stops in Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park's popularity, you now need tickets to visit Cadillac and Bar Harbor is too crowded. Some people no longer visit in summer.

Our son and his family made a camping trip several years ago and he said he would never go back. Too crowded. But, in researching the trip looking for an interesting boat ride I discovered we could charter a lobster boat and invited our son and 12 yo grandson to spend the holiday weekend with us. Our gs is crazy about fishing and this would be his first ocean fishing experience. Fish Acadia Deep Sea Fishing Charters offered lobstering lessons as well and provided all the gear. Only rough seas would cancel and sunday weather was iffy. We were warned to dress warm and bring rain gear. Captain Luke knew ahead of time who we were and that the trip was for our gs. But, we lucked out with a beautiful sunny day. Unfortunately our son and gs only caught cod which are wormy this time of year so it was catch and release. Hauling lobster traps came next and we got to keep 7 lobsters and a few stone crabs, we moved to a different area hoping to catch some pollock but no bites. Good fishing depends on the tides and 1-4pm wasn't the best time to fish.



Pickup was at a dock in Northeast Harbor. Our son read good reviews for a food truck which sounded like a good idea for a quick lunch. When we arrived ds apologized because there was a line. It was one person long. I got a hot buttered lobster roll for a change. DH chose a burger as a least expensive item to up chuck if he got sea sick. The boys chose lobster tacos.

DS brought their gravel bikes but still decided to stay away from Acadia and opted to ride 23.99 miles in Surry and reported that Perry's Lobster was still undergoing repairs after winter storms washed away their dock.

Weather turned cold and threatened rain so it was a question of which indoor activity did we want to do. DH wanted to check out Maine's popular Reny's department store in search of a zip front hoody. We also checked out Marden's which is a bargain, overstock etc. type of store. Ellsworth has a wide variety of stores and restaurants. The next day was another poor weather day. It had been about 20 years since we visited Cole Land Transportation Museum in Bangor about a 30 minute drive. I find it far more interesting than a regular classic car museum. The docents were friendly and answered questions. The key is to ask questions although the signage was excellent. Best question to ask is how they got a train engine, passenger car and caboose into the building. Lunch was at Dysart,s Truck Stop which wasn't as good as I remembered. Mediocre waiter who got our order wrong. I decided on mac 'n cheese with Maine red hot dogs.

At last, good weather returned so I chose The Charlotte Rhodes Butterfly Garden in Southwest Harbor to visit. Since I have walking issues this one acre beautifully planted garden with an ocean view was a good choice. A team of gardeners were still busy planting annuals but not too busy to talk. i took photos of some perennials and a shrub I might want for my own garden. There are other gardens on Mount Desert Island to visit and I almost chose the Turrets on the College of the Atlantic campus for another day.

My husband leaves vacation planning to me so I debated visiting another car museum but decided we should do something he enjoyed. I'm glad we stopped at Seal Cove Auto Museum because it might be my all time favorite. There was a gorgeous perfect condition antique woody wagon that had just been donated with only 60,000 original miles, wealthy owner had only driven it when he was at his summer home. But, for me, the best part was a display about cars and Women's Right to Vote that was originally part of a larger display in 2020 for the 100th Anniversary. It is used for their school programs. I bought two children's books they sell. Bear in mind that in the early 1900s some doctors thought riding at 25 mph in a motor carriage might cause a woman to become infertile. We were the only visitors while we were there. Lunch was at Charlotte's roadside stand. Very excellent service. Fried clams and scallops as a change from lobster.

Our last dull day was more beautiful weather. The cottage owner highly recommended visiting the Raven's Nest which is in Acadia National Park but on the Schoodic Peninsula. You can't find it unless you have a guide book. Glad for my hiking poles since the the walk was short but treacherous. Probably one of the most beautiful cliff views in the park. The one way drive offered more beautiful scenery. Although the Pickled Wrinkle was recommended for lunch, it opened late that day and the pizza and burger menu didn't appeal. Instead we opted for On the Wharf in Corea. At 11am we were the only customers. Pretty good crabmeat rolls and an excellent outdoor deck looking out on a working harbor.

since we are way too early risers we preferred to cook dinner at the cottage but that meant I missed having a halibut dinner which were in season. Many restaurants had it but only on their dinner menu. I will look at finding some at home since NH also has good fish and seafood.

Memorial Day weekend is when a lot of restaurants open for the season. Nights are still very cool. It looked like hiking trails were very busy based on the number of cars at the trailheads. We don't like crowds so it was a good time for us to visit.
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Old Jun 2nd, 2024 | 04:00 AM
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After the Dysart's lunch we stopped at the famous Chicken Barn Antiques and Used Books. Another good rainy day activity.
we forgot to bring our DeLorme's Atlas and gazetteer but there was one at the cottage. I highly recommend for navigating the back roads since evey road, including seasonal is show on the maps. Otherwise, we might still be trying to find our way off an island near Deer Isle.

I forgot that day which was a visit to Stonington and Deer Isle which are on the Blue Hill Peninsula. A much quieter part of Maine. We decided to have a second breakfast at the Stonecutter's Kitchen. You'll learn where it got its name. Hint: stone was transported by sailing ship to PA and the ship returned loaded with coal. The convenience store next door opens at 4am. It is necessary to drive over a suspension bridge frighteningly similar to the Tacoma Narrows Bridge in WA that started swing in high winds and tore apart. The Maine bridge has been modified to,prevent that but heavy trucks and buses need to keep 500 feet apart.

Surprisingly a craft fair was being held from 10-2 in Deer Isle. Nice quality especially the turned wooden bowls.
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Old Jun 2nd, 2024 | 04:51 AM
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This sounds like a very nice getaway for an older married couple. My experience of this time of year in Maine always included black flies. When I had pigtails they headed for the skin under my ears which meant I could not sleep on either side without that itchy pain from their bites. I hope you were able to miss that.

Thanks for reporting.
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Old Jun 2nd, 2024 | 11:57 PM
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Thanks, oldemalloy. I think black fly season is over, at least here in NH. Did not see any in Maine but we weren't inmthe woods much. I know someone who lives in Bar Harbor and does a lot of hiking and claims they don't have black flies. Perhaps she is pulling my leg. Away from the coast it might still be black fly season. If I get a bite it usually only itches the first day. My sister used to work at at NH 4H camp that would hire camp counselors from England. It was usually the foreigners who had the most trouble with insect bites. I wonder if locals,develope something of an immunity.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2024 | 01:31 PM
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Thanks for this, dfrostnh. Maybe foreigners just taste better...😁
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