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Old Aug 6th, 2003, 10:46 AM
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Kauai, Big Island Trip Report

Thanks to everyone on this board for the great advice. I'll do this mostly in point form and if any of you have any questions, just ask...

Day 1-7 Kauai

Great flight from Vancouver to HNL on Aloha Good service, Free Mai-tai, movies, Lots of leg room. The interisland leaves much to be desired IMHO. I have never heard of "rush" seating on an airplane. We got into the "wrong line" (there were no signs or postings) and subsequently were not able to sit together. I felt like I was at a rock concert. I saw parents separated from their crying kids because of this "rush seating" What a nightmare. Why can't they assign you a seat upon check in? Also, our luggage didn't make it on two out of three interisland flights. I thought with increased security the rule was that you fly with your luggage. Apparently not. We were not alone. Many people did not get their luggage and had to wait (like us) for their luggage to arrive on the next flight(which made me think....whose luggage am I flying with) What a gong show.

Anyway, once in Kauai we hit Wal-mart, picked up some snorkel gear, went to our hotel (Islander on the Beach) Islander is a good property for budget minded travellers within walking distance to resturants etc. We had a view of the ocean and got what we expected. No bugs and some really cute wild kittens that make the grounds their home. We would always go for a beer and a soak in the hot tub after a day of hiking. We met some ....er... interesting characters in that hot tub. Not all were hotel guests. Not all were playing with a full deck. Good for a laugh though. I was sooooo glad we chose Kapaa instead of Poipu as we enjoyed the dinning choices, central location (30 minutes to the north shore) and really enjoyed hanging out at Kealia Beach for surfing/boogie boarding.

Hikes:

We did the Kalalau trail to the first beach and then onto the waterfall. Wonderful hike. REALLY enjoyed the waterfall part. Basically had the place to ourselves. Cooled off under the falls before heading back. This hike was not as difficult as I thought it would be. However the trails were mostly dry and we wore hikers and were well stocked with food and H2O. On the return, I was amazed to see people hiking in during the mid-day heat wearing flip-flops and carrying nothing except one tiny bottle of water. We snorkelled at Kee after the hike. Really nice beach. Average snorkelling on that day.

Nu'alolo Cliff/Awaawapuhi loop. A long hike (9 miles) but great views. Well worth it for fit, seasoned hikers. Had to hitch a ride back to our car though. No problem.

Pihea Trail to Alakai Swamp-- Loved this hike. Great views. Basically had the trail to ourselves. Some challenging sections and then boardwalk. The only thing that I didn't like is that they closed the road between the Kalalau lookout and the Pu u o Kila Lookout and we had to walk the extra 3/4 mile to our car.

Beaches:

Poipu-- nice but not spectacular. Always seemed windy there.

Kee-- nice sand, good snorkelling

Tunnels-- really great. The best snorkelling. Hint: Don't park in the "parking lot". Park down the road at the camping area and walk along the beach. Much nicer.

Hanalei- Fun for families. No surf when we were there.

Anini- nice, didn't go into the water.

Kealia Beach -- my favorite for playing in the waves. Only for those really comfortable with strong ocean surf.

Food: Some really great food. We were on a budget so we didn't go the the more expensive places. One thing I do have to mention is that the portions are HUGE in Hawaii. Even when the guidebook said "small portions" we were overwhelmed with the sheer quantity of FOOD!!! Even at the McDonalds, the small fries are the same size as the large in Canada. The Hamburgers are the size of my head and you have the option of getting a "double big mac".... Isn't the Big Mac already a double??....crazy.

HANAELI

Paradise Shave Ice-- Yum!
Tropical Taco-- Gotta try the fish tacos!!
Wake up Hanaeli cafe-- A great place for breakfast before hiking the Kalalau.
Bubba Burgers-- Good food, Slow service

KAPAA

Eggberts-- Good Breakfasts. Slower service but they were always busy.

La Playita Azul-- Awesome Mexican. Dinning room is hot and stuffy. Got it to go and ate it on the beach.

Lemon Grass-- Really nice presentation, Great food. Wasn't impressed with our server but I think he was having a bad night.

Coconuts-- YUP! Great seafood. Reasonable, nice patio, our server was awesome.

Kintaro-- Japanese. One of my favorites. Not 100% traditional japanese but still outstanding food and service.

Bull Shed-- Great food, Great Service, atmosphere was hurried and weird. Huge portions, everyone eating hypnotically. Nice water front view.

WEST SHORE

Pacific Pizza and Deli-- great place for lunch after a hike. Good Pizza.

Jo Jos- Shave Ice is legendary.

We also did a cataraman trip with Captain Andy's. That was a highlight. Extremely professional. Stunning views. Saw dolphins, turtles, sea caves (couldn't go in but got right up close) Boat did not seem crowded contrary to what the guidebook states.

The helicopter tragedy occured while were were on the island. We were actually hiking at the time and noted that there was suddenly an absence of helicopters (you usually always can hear one in the distance and on one hike one a day earlier one came over a ridge spitting distance from where we were staning) Anyway, when we returned to our hotel that night we heard the news. Very sad and definatley confirmed my views on helicopter touring.


All in all we loved Kauai. I'll post the Big Island later (on this same thread). If you have any questions, just ask.

C.
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Old Aug 6th, 2003, 11:42 AM
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Great trip report Corgie.
We loved LaPlayita Azul as well...and you must have had the same indifferent waiter we had at LemonGrass...
 
Old Aug 6th, 2003, 12:34 PM
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Festival seating is usual for interisland flights, I found it inspiring.

Ha - we walked into Playita Azul in the afternoon, there were two guys sitting there eating (owner/employees?), and they told us they were closed. So, we walked over to the Camp House Grill and had hamburgers. It was a hot day and La Playita Azul wasn't very cool as you noted, never made it back there. Don't much care for Bubba's. Spent well over $100 for lunch at Hanalei Cafe.

I rented a Harley and we drove down to Hula Girl one evening, we walked around the Islander and sat at the beach. Their pool is pretty small (sorry Kal ). There was also a group called Rock Candy playing at a bar in the Marketplace, lots of girls dancing together -- I wanted to stay >, my wife said definitely NOT!
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Old Aug 6th, 2003, 01:45 PM
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DB, Is the 100.00 lunch you had at the same place as Wake up Hanaeli Cafe?... because we paid $15.00 for breakfast for two and I think they are only open for breakfast. I might be wrong....

Any way... onto the Big Island

We landed in Kona (had breakfast while we waited for our luggage to arrive on the next flight from Kauai) and then booted it up to the Volcano stopping at the Punaluu black sand beach on the way.

We checked into our accomodations at Volcano Inn (not to be confused with the Inn at Volcano or any of the establishments that have either "inn" or "Volcano" in their names. I REALLY loved this property. We had the Aloha Room which was small but very private with private bathroom and entrance. Nice rainforest setting. Coolers and flashlights were provided for trips to the volcano. A nice touch. The guidebook said that the inn keeperes were not friendly. I think shy is a better term for it. I like to put things in context. Anyone who chooses to live in a small village like volcano does so for a reason. I think these inn keepers are artist types who are quiet serene people which suited me just fine. I'm not always into chatting it up at bed and breakfasts anyway.

We hiked out to the Lava just before sunset and stayed to watch it long after dark. I couldn't believe how hot it got out there!! A great show (the lava was really pumping at one point and we walked right up to it). It was freaky to hike over rock and see the glow of lava through the cracks!!! Lava viewing was well worth the hot hike back at night too.

The next day we hiked the kilauea iki trail (a good morning hike), drove the crater rim trail and looked at the sights (thursten lava tube is a hoot and if you bring a flashlight you can go even further) In the afternoon we hiked to the Pu'u Cone (Mauna Ulu) where we got some exceptional views of Pu'uo'o doing its thing. Usually this view is cloudy and obscured I hear, so we lucked out.

That night we hiked out the the lava again and, although awesome, it wasn't as impressive as on the first night.

The next day we drove via Hilo to the Kona side stopping at the Waipio Lookout. We didn't hike down. Too tired from Volcano hikes. Next time.

We checked into our room at the Royal Kona Resort. Now, let me say that I was quite anxious about this property because I heard so many mixed reviews. I am happy to say that we loved it. Sure the rooms are a bit outdated ( I actually think it added retro charm) and definately it needs some fixing up (ie. our balcony needed paint etc.) but overall, for the price and location, it was awesome. No bugs. Clean, quiet, cheap draught beer and mai tais at the pool. It was heaven. I also thought the lobby and pool area were great. The pool overlooks the ocean and sometimes the waves would come crash right up on the wall while we were sitting there.

The last 3 days of our holidays included 2 days at Hapuna and other area beaches just chilling and one day Kayaking out to the Captain Cook Monument. Outstanding Snorkelling. Perhaps the best ever and I've done Australia's GBR. Dolphins swam beside our Kayak on the way back. A great day. We rented from Kealakekua Kayak and were happy. Another place not to be missed is Pu'uhonua o Honaunau or the Place of Refuge. Out of all the islands I've been to (and I've been to all now except Lanai and Molokai) I have to say I was most impressed with the Big Island in terms of history and preservation of historical sites. From Petroglyphs to Heius...all very impressive.

Food:

Honokaa--We had a wonderful breakfast at Simply Natural Cafe.

Volcano-- JP Cafe has good sandwiches etc. The owner is a real character. Check out the computer he has running in the kitchen and you will find that he is tracking the pending arrival of the aliens (and he is serious)

Kona-- We loved Lu Lu's for watching the sunset. Good food and drinks at good prices.

Hard Rock-- Okay. Typically overpriced

Pancho and Leftys-- Mexican. Reasonably priced. Good food. slightly sketchy but I can't figure out why.

Best place to watch the sunset? Windjammer Lounge right at our hotel. There was good weekend entertainment there too.

I should mention that we are Budget travellers. We're not into spending money at expensive resorts or fine dinning....so please put my reviews into context. If you like your food and accomodations five star, you should tune my reviews out.

p.s We snuck into the pool at the Prince Hotel and used their beach loungers and umbrellas at Hapuna.

Overall, we had a blast. Thanks everyone for the planning tips. And please ask if you have any questions.

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Old Aug 6th, 2003, 02:10 PM
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Corgie, thanks for your excellent trip report! I have heard variable reports lately about how long it takes to get to the actively flowing lava from the end of chain of craters road. How long did it take you to reach the red hot lava from where you parked your car?
Thanks again!
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Old Aug 6th, 2003, 04:24 PM
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What about Arnott's Lodge and their tours?? I think that is the name. If you have never been to The Big Island would you recommend a tour to see the lava flow and the tour for the sunset at ? Their prices seems pretty good to me. I this true.
Corgie...which was your favorite The Big Island or Kauai???
 
Old Aug 6th, 2003, 04:42 PM
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CORGIE NO KA OI!!!! 8-)
You got me even more fired up now!!!
Just booked the air and rental car yesterday. Have to extend the stay 2 mo' days due to NFL playoffs!

DB, No worry, bragh! Small pool-less kids!

"I'm soooo excited...." Dammit!!!!
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Old Aug 6th, 2003, 04:44 PM
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Kal,
Just saw the breaking news?
Arnie says he will run
What ya gonna do now?
 
Old Aug 6th, 2003, 04:47 PM
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Thanks Corgie...
planning a budget week on the big island...first week oct.

Is capt. cook snorkelling really as good as the GBR? Do you have to transport the kayaks to the beach? Is it an easy paddle..my wife and i once went around in circles on a canadian lake for half an hour!

Strikes me the lava flow is quite variable..where do you get the inside info?
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Old Aug 6th, 2003, 04:53 PM
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Good report. I agree with you about the seating on Aloha (Hawaiian does this too on their interisland flights). On our first trip to Hawaii, we weren't aware of it either and ended up all separated--not a tragedy as my boys have flown a lot and didn't freak out, but the youngest was 7 or 8 at the time. Now we know to get up there and shove our way on like everyone else.
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Old Aug 6th, 2003, 05:13 PM
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i'2,
I'll pay good money to hear the debate between Arnie and Arianna.
Hell, I'll pay good money just to be able to understand it!

All I know is it may soon be cheaper to live in Hawaii than it is in California.
Good excuse to move, yah?
Kal
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Old Aug 6th, 2003, 09:47 PM
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That was Cafe Hanalei at THE hotel, dahling.
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Old Aug 7th, 2003, 08:54 AM
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DB, ya totally different place we went to THE hotel to oggle but didn't eat or drink there.

Regarding the pool at the Islander...yes it is very small and we only used the hot tub. For me the pool area is only significant insofar as the quality of the cocktails they serve. If you are a pool person, probably the Islander isn't for you.

Lava Viewing-

JohnD, We had to walk about a mile and a half from our car. One mile was over lava, the other half was on the road. The second night it was a bit closer. iceeu2, I don't think a tour is necessary. If you have a rent-a-car you can do it on your own. There are park rangers there to answer your questions, a clearly marked trail to the lava...just make sure you get there before the sun goes down (this helps you get a frame of reference for the area which will help with the night viewing), pack a lunch, bring water. Mind you, I don't like tours and only take them if necessary.

Which island did I like better? Tough question. Kauai for scenery and hiking, Big Island for Lava, history, snorkelling and Hapuna Beach (I love that beach.

Both islands are so different (essentially the youngest and oldest islands in the chain) so it was like going on two different holidays. I liked the atmosphere of the Kona area (a fun town with lots of casual dinning and pubs) but I also liked the slower sleepy pace of Kauai. I'm a bit of a hippie so Hanalei captured my heart too.

johnJ_au... are you an aussie? Was snorkelling better at Captain Cook than at GBR? In terms of accessibility, yes because it was a simple and fun 30 minute Kayak trip with dolphins and turtles. The coral is alive, the fish are brilliant, the water is clear. Obviously, it is a MUCH smaller area than GBR.

GBR offered more variety of species though and was well....huge. I guess for me, I'm not a fan of the long boat ride out to the GBR itself. I actually enjoyed the Ningaloo reef on the West shore of Australia over the GBR because of it's accessibility and "untouched" quality. Captain Cook Monument isn't easy to get to so it isn't over run (yet) like some areas on the GBR...maybe that's it.

Getting the Kayak is easy. The company puts it on your rental car for you. You need to take it off and get it into the water and then put it back on your car. Some locals hang out at the launching site and are willing to help if you give them a couple of bucks. If it is a calm day, you will find Kayaking across the bay way more enjoyable than any canadian lake because (as a Canadian, I can say this with some authority) Canadian lakes are bloody cold. The water in Hawaii is warm. The kayak company will also give you tips on how to paddle, steer etc.

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Old Aug 7th, 2003, 09:01 AM
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Also, here is the Lava update
web-site.

http://hvo.wr.usgs.gov/kilauea/update/


P.S. I don't really know too much about California politics but isn't it kind of strange that Arnie is running as a "republican" when his philosophies and family he married into lean left of centre?
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