RichinPA

HI to all fellow Fodorites and Kauainuts,
Kal, thanks for the email.

My wife and I got back last Saturday from our three week trip to Princeville on Kauai's North shore, 7/18 through 8/8. Needless to say, I was swamped with paperwork upon getting home and have just started to catch up, so apologies to all for this tardy report.

To all Kauai travelers, the Island has even gotten better since last year's trip if that is possible. we had the best weather we have ever had, a few evening showers, 75 to 85 during the days with those great trade winds keeping it cool.

We did have our first sighting of a Hawaiian Monk seal this year on tunnels beach, that was neat. It came on shore about 100 feet from our beach chairs and laid there for about two hours. Our friends saw one also on Kee beach and there were reports of a mother and a pup on Moloaa Beach.

We played golf 6 times while we were there, the Kaui Golf cjhallege, a round at each of the big 3, The Prince, Poipu Bay and Kiele at Kauia Lagoons. Also, played the new 18 holes at Puakae(old Grove Farm Course), all 27 holes at Makai and played the Mokihana couse at Kauai Lagoons for the first time and was pleasantly surprised with this couse. The new holes that complete Puakea are a wecome addition however now the rates have gone up. We paid $95 per round there because of an agreement with our location at the Cliffs in Princeville. Normal rounds are $125.

Not much has changed on Kauai in a year. It was a little more crowded than last year. I really hate to see more people on the island, but it is nice to see the local businesses thriving.

A few notes on some changes: Chuck's Steak house up at Princeville has now become C. J.'s steak house. Same menu with a few welcome additions and some welcome dressing up of the interior.

we ate at The Polynisia(sp) Cafe at Ching Young village in Hanalei for the first time. Gourmet food on paper plates. The dishes we had, both chicken, were very very good and total bill was something like $ per platter. Their most expensive dish was somewhere around $15, well worth the try.

Gaylord's at Kilohana has opened up a sister restaurant, The Hukilau Lani, behind the Coconut Market Place. I believe it is in the old Coconut Kauai Beachboy Hotel. Menu is toned down from Galord's, not quite as pricy, but excellent dishes and good service.

There is also a new Burger, sports bar joint called, The Shack, in the old Kapaa Fish and Chowder House. They have a great Happy our and dollar off specials on certain days, great Burgers in the $4 to $5 range, some fish dishes and a nice sporty, clean atmosphere, noisy, but hey, it's a bar.

I heard while we were there that they have added the North shore roads and bridges from Princeville and North as historic roads or landmarks or something like that. So, delevopemant and those giant tour buses will be kept to a minimium for a long time. I think everyone wants to keep this lovely place a pristine as possible.

Parking at Tunnels beach has become even more difficult as absolutley no roadside parking is available, and rightly so. The two acces roads get filled early and trust me, the police are ticketing cars that do not obey. Best bet is to park up at Heana Beach Park and walk back.

Well, that should be enough to chew on a whet a few Kauai appetites for a while.

Anyone, feel free to email me for any specific questions.

11 months till next trip and counting.

RichinPA

I forgot a note on Zelo's in Hanalei. We wnet there the first week we were there and the menu had completely changed. It was all Southwestern/Mexican dishes. The place was near empty whis is a rarity for this restaurant. The dishes we had were both excellent. The waitress said they had changed to this menu in May, but were going back to their old menu with more Pacific Rim dishes the next week. We went in two more times during our trip and indeed the seafood dishes were fantastic and the palce was packed.

margot55

Aloha and welcome back, Rich -

Great trip report, sounds like you enjoyed your return to our beloved paradise and wonderful as we did ours. Question --- what was the buzz re: the tragic helicopter crash, i.e. what were people saying, did heli tour business fall off, etc.??? I know we are al relieved that you are safe and sound, as we were concerned once we heard about the crash. Mahalo again for your report!

JohnD

Mahalo for your trip report! If you happened to do any snorkelling at Tunnels beach, how was it?

RichinPA

Mahalo Margot and Johnd for the kind words on my return and report.

I can't believe I forgot about that Heli Crash. It was very strange, we heard about it from two local police officers we played golf with the day after it happened. John and Sean......Great guys on Kauai if anyone knows them. The reporting was very quiet on the crash. It was four people, plus the Pilot of Jack Harter helicopters and they all died in the crash. We never got any names or locations of any of the victims. The Pilot was one of their most experienced and last word I heard before leaving was they were looking at mechanical failure. All Helicopters voluntarily grounded themselves for at least a day maye more out of respect for the victims, but by the time we left, the skies were again full of heli tours.

John, we spent 4 or 5 days on Tunnels, snorkeling and relaxing. I actually read 5 paperbacks on this trip, the only time I get to read. The day we saw the seal at Tunnels, the sightings of fish were few and far between. I'm sure he had them running scared dining on their cousins. The last two times we were there everything was back to normal, great snorkeling, clear water, lot's of fish. Didn't see any turtles there this year, but we went up later in the day than we usually had. With the tougher parking, the beach was never really crowded at all., Plus we walk and sit on the lower end of tunnels aways from the easy access.

I used a new digiatl camera I purchased this year and took 262 pics. Now I have to sort through them and print some out. Digital is great, just shoot till you drop, or batteried go dead.

Thanks again to all for their thoughts.

I hate my wife..........she made me come home. hehe.

JohnD

Rich, thanks for your reply, just wondering if you have any thoughts about how snorkelling at Tunnels compares with Kee. We missed checking out Tunnels this past March and we didn't see any turtles at Kee (nor seals) this year, but we did snorkel with a turtle in 2002.

margot55

Actually, Rich, from what I read, one of the couples in the crash was from PA, the other (celebrating their 25th anniversary) from CO. Very sad and sobering indeed...

iceeu2

Hi Rich
Welcome home...and just a note...I bet your wife is telling everyone that she hates you.....cause you made her come home!!
So glad you all are safe...If you get a chance to go thru some of the recent posts....you will see just how many fodorites were concerned about you and yours.
Is Zelo's right there on the corner beside the shopping center???

islandmom

Thanks for the tips. I'm trying to remember if I ever went to Tunnels. Is that on the north shore?

JohnD

Islandmom thanks for thinking, it is indeed on the north shore of Kauai, opposite that large dry cave you can easily walk into just after the road crosses the stream .

RichinPA

Hi again and I have looked at some of the posts and thanks to all who thought of me after that accident. It is a very sad thought indeed to think you are enjoying one of the happiest times of your life only to have it cut short. Let's all enjoy what we have while we have it.

John, I prefer Tunnels as it doesn't get quite as crowded as Kee. There is a fairly wide shallow reef that strechs out from shore maybe 100 ft and then it drops off to 25 / 30 ft. It is nice just to snorkel along that drop off and sneak back into some of the sandy channels along the reef. Actually, the beach across frm the cave is Haena State Park beac, tunnels starts just slightly south of there.

iceeu2, Zelo's in indeed in Hanalei, it used to be the old Shell House Restaurant before Iniki, it is across from the shops in the old school house.

dolciani

Hey Rich, was that you on Kee Beach getting the $1 per minute massage??? (HAHA) I don't know if you saw it or not, but a woman had "set up shop" there the week of August 3rd!!! (She was doing some pretty good business, too). We wandered around Princeville (we stayed in Lihue) and I remembered that you were staying up in that area....now I know why!!! I told my hubby, we MUST reserve a few days to stay on the north shore next visit (The Princeville Hotel is NOT TOO SHABBY!!). Sounds like you had a great time - After our first trip to Kauai, I understand why everyone wants to return (kinda like Bermuda trips). Thanks for the report! Wasn't the Lagoons course super (I pared the par 3 hole that hit over the ocean - was it hole #16?)...MY husband hit at least 6 balls into the canyon on the "gorilla" hole before he made one over (HAHAHA).

JohnD

Thanks again Rich, the lifeguard told us that the all the beach we could see in front of their rescue hut was "Tunnels beach" but it looked too wavy for snorkeling and what you are describing sounds more consistent with an area where some of the snorkel boat tours may stop. I guess I will have to wait until next year and hope for calm conditions.

DB

Hey Rich, good to hear you're back in one piece. Sorry our stays didn't overlap to share a couple drinks.

You mentioned "the Cliffs", Did you you stay at the Shearwater condo? They have the best views, but their pool is ridiculously small.

I guess we won't be seeing Kauai for awhile. We have to go to Europe next year, and after that my wife wants to try Mexico instead of Hawaii, so that puts our Kalcount into the thousands.

Kal

Welcome back, Bragh!

I heard from my local friends Puakea is pretty nice but mucho $$$ now. How'd you like the "Golf Package"? An old buddy of mine will be joining us this trip and we both like to golf, sooooo.

We ate at HukiLau a couple of times last year. Nice to know the service has gotten better. Very spotty when we went but it had only been open for maybe 2-3 weeks when we were there?

Agree food was great, tho. Nice setting too.
One night we went and bought a bag o' macadamian nuts and drank Zin and munched macs on the little porch in the lobby right by the entrance to the restaurant. Good wine selection.

Loved The Shack too. Could sit out back and smoke a stogie <one of the few places left on Kauai> or indside. Still pretty inexpensive compared to other restaurants? Good portions,too. Guinness on tap.

137 mo' days for us. ~gt; ~gt;

Kal

DB, I don't EVEN wanna tell you Mrs Kal's plans for next year but here's a hint: Were are celebrating her first non-40-something birthday, our 25th wedding anniv and the 30th year we've been dating. Can you say "home equity loan-work 2 jobs"? $-)


But I can guarantee it will include a stop in Kauai in about 501 mo' days!
Especially after she reads Rich's TR.

scott_s

Hi Rich,

Great report, I took a few notes, my plane leaves for HI around 1 tomorrow (as long as the power comes back). Glad to hear you had a great time.


Scott

RichinPA

Hi again fellow Kauainuts,
Just topping this to answer a few questions I missed yesterday.

KAL: I assume the "golf package" you are asking about is the Kauai Challenge, playing the big 3 courses? It gets more expensive every year, but what doesn't. It was $360 per person for the three rounds this year.

To all golfers, the Prince Course, which i still my favorite with the toughest holes and great views was in the very worst shape I have ever seen it. The greens were a mess as were the fairways. They claimed to be trying to get rid of the Poa Annua grass but I talked with some people who said they had some personnel changes and were haviing some problems. I did notice all the staff was new this year.

DB: No, we do not stay at Shearwater, though I know the location. THE CLIFFS is a separate entity a little further down the road into Princeville off Pepelani Loop.

Dolciani: No, we never got up to Kee this year, but I would have taken that lady up on the $1 / minute massage on the beach. I also had a par on that great par 3 on Kiele, but tell your hubby I birdied the Gorilla hole.

To all: I also didn't mention that they are planning a timeshare facility on the ocen fron property just north of the Bull Shed below Kapaa. That will just make that conjested area that much busier.

Also, we alsways stayed away from Hilo Hattie's thinking the stuff sold there was a little tacky, but we heard they upgraded and went in. They have and I got a great Tori Richard shirt there for 1/2 price. The quality has been upgraded. They still have the touristy tacky Hawaiina stuff, but you can find some nice items there also. PLus you get some coupons for free stuff on the island. We got a buy ob get one free breakfast at the Terrace Restaurant at the Kauai Lagoons Golf Course and the Spanish Omellete's were to die for.

I'll keep topping this off as long as people are willing to discuss, or email if you wish.

iceeu2

Rich, the DH managed to keep me away from Hilo Hattie's until near the end of our stay.

He was glad we went in....there was a woman there with some beautiful jewelry she makes.....and there was also an author, Mary Syreen, having a book signing. The author is an island person...lives on Kauai and also on Ana Maria Island, Florida....Her books are mysteries and are so great to read. I recognized the places she writes about on Kauai.....and Florida....and Georgia.....

So...Hilo Hattie's can be a great place!!

I am oh so jealous....am having the Kauai jitters......we haven't set the exact dates yet, but will be the end of February or 1st of March.

My biggest problem is.....I really do want to go to the Big Island this time...and can't determine for how long, etc......

Ever been to the Big Island???

RichinPA

Iceeu2: I was only to the Big Island once for a day trip tour, but hear lot of good things about it. We went when the Volcano was flowing really good a few years ago and that was an awesome sight to see.