Just returned: Anc/Seward/Homer/Lake Clark
Aug 2nd, 2005 | 06:43 PM
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 283
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Just returned: Anc/Seward/Homer/Lake Clark
We had a fabulous two weeks in Alaska! My husband and I, together with two sons in their early 20's, traveled the Kenai Peninsula and then spent a week at a fly-in/fly-out fishing lodge on Lake Clark. After my trip report, I'll add some random thoughts and tips.
Anchorage:
We arrived at midnight, picked up our SUV rental at Alamo, and drove to the Anchorage Marriott (downtown). The rooms were very nice, had huge picture windows, and we were able to have breakfasts in the concierge lounge.
In the morning, we walked to the visitor's center, through the open-air market (open Sat & Sun), and a few miles of the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail. I wish we had rented bikes to complete the entire trail. We visited the Native Heritage Center for 2 hours and had lunch at Moose's Tooth Brewery. It was packed but service was fast and the pizza and beer were good. From there, we drove to the trailhead and hiked up Flattop Mountain (not a good idea after pizza and beer!). The beginning of the hike is moderate but become very strenuous about 2/3 of the way up. It is very rocky and steep. Good hiking shoes and a full water bottle are necessary. The bonus, though, was a bull moose at the top of the mountain. Views were great and we took lots of pictures. We met two interesting people: a rugged-looking young man with a rifle ("I don't go anywhere near wildlife without it") and a middle-aged man who ran up the mountain TWICE during our trek. Yikes. The hike took 2+ hours. Afterward we drove to Spenard Lake/Lake Hood to look at the float planes and visit the Millenium Hotel. We were told to go there to see their magnificent collection of stuffed wildlife in the lobby and were very glad we did. It is like a museum.
Dinner was at the Glacier Brewhouse (we had made reservations from home the day before). It was good but our server was a piece of work. It is an upscale restaurant but quite noisy. When we returned to Anchorage at the end of the week, we ate at the Snow Goose Cafe/Sleeping Lady Brewery and liked that a lot. It has beautiful quilts and stained glass panels, plus two decks that overlook the water.
The next morning we headed to Seward. Despite the clouds, we stopped at Beluga Point, Bird Creek, and other overlooks for pictures. We stopped for lunch at the Bake Shop at the foot of Mt. Alyeska and their soup & sandwiches were very good. The outdoor tables are surrounded by a fabulous garden and dozens of hanging flowerpots...gorgeous! We used the Toursaver coupon for the tramway and hiked up to the glacier. Looking back, we should have skipped Mt. Alyeska entirely to have more time at Portage Glacier. We enjoyed the visitor's center at Portage Glacier and the turnouts along the road for short hikes. The scenery is amazing.
Seward:
We checked into the Ballaine House B&B. It was not fancy but was very comfortable. The proprietor is very nice and provides a full breakfast, tons of videos and books, and Internet access. She even did some laundry for us the second night! The B&B is centrally located between downtown and the small boat harbor, so we walked downtown first and followed the trail to the harbor, passing by hundreds of RVs parked right on the shore. It was a clear evening and Resurrection Bay was spectacular. We saw several bald eagles right away. Dinner was at Ray's and quite good (the halibut cheeks were the best).
The next day was overcast and rainy but we went on the Kenai Fjords NW Glacier Tour anyway (9 hours). Fortunately, the water was very calm and it never poured rain. We had a consistent drizzle but were still able to spend time outside and took lots of pictures of birds, sea lions, whales, and the glacier. The trip seemed a little too long (maybe weather had something to do with it) and we may have preferred the 6-hour tour instead. We enjoyed watching the fishing charters weigh and clean their catches on the pier(as well as an otter that got hold of a piece of salmon!).
We had dinner that evening at Chinook's in the Small Boat Harbor. Great view and good food but don't order the lobster bisque or the spinach salad.
The next morning we checked out and went to Exit Glacier. We hiked about half of the Harding Icefield trail and I highly recommend it. It affords beautiful views and is a moderate grade for the most part. We hiked to the point where the trail veers away from the glacier (maybe 1.5 or 2 miles up, beyond the plank bridge, until you can look back over the glacier). Afterward we walked the short trail to Exit Glacier but it looks much more spectacular from above.
On the road again...heading towards Homer. We stopped for lunch in Moose Pass at the Trail Lake Lodge, situated on a lovely small lake. The lodge/motel looked very nice and would be a good spot for folks looking to stay a night to break up the drive to Homer or Anchorage. At this point, the mountains are still incredible. After Cooper Landing, the landscape flattens out and isn't too impressive until Homer. Traffic was terrible due to construction in Soldotna.
Homer:
Fortunately, we reserved early enough to get a new 2BR suite at Land's End Resort at the end of Homer Spit. The views from our balcony were beautiful and the beach was right outside our door. After dinner at El Pescador on the Spit (including good Kachemak Bay oysters and halibut tacos), we walked the beach and watched the sky turn orange/pink at sunset.
We spent the morning exploring the Spit and kayaked in the afternoon with St. Augustine's (www.homerkayaking.com). Our group of 6 was taken across Kachemak Bay by water taxi to Peterson Bay and we kayaked there with a guide. All of the coves are pretty protected and the water was calm. The sun disappeared after the first two hours and we finished up our tour in the rain. Such is life in Alaska. Wear Gore-tex!
One of our best meals in Alaska was at Cafe Cups in Homer. The duck was particularly delicious. The restaurant is funky/cute and small (reservations are recommended or you will have a long wait). They have a nice wine list, too.
Early the next morning we walked up the Spit and had coffee and pastries at Spit Sisters Cafe. After a little shopping, we hit the road bound for Anchorage again. We ate in Soldotna in a little cafe tucked in a bookstore near the turnoff to Kenai. This road is not very picturesque until you reach Seward Highway again.
We stayed at Springhill Suites in midtown Anchorage this time. They have a coin laundry and free breakfast buffet. We shopped for souvenirs at Walmart next door (thanks to Fodorites for that tip!).
The next morning we returned the rental car and headed to Lake Clark Air at Merrill Field to be flown to our fishing lodge. I will post a report on Alaska's Wilderness Lodge under another heading since some travelers may not be interested in a week-long fly-fishing experience. Suffice it to say that it was the highlight of our trip! We flew by floatplane from our lodge to a different fishing destination every day and saw unspoiled landscapes, crystal clear glacier lakes, snowy mountains, and wildlife galore. Though we visited Brooks Falls in Katmai National Park one day, it was anticlimatic after fishing on rivers with bears all around us. We were glad we had the opportunity to do both touring and fishing and see so much of our 49th state.
Random thoughts: Dress in layers because the weather changes quickly. There is no need for "nice" clothing anywhere. Use the space in your suitcase for another Gore-tex jacket and hat!
I bought some Buzz-Off clothing at Orvis and LLBean to fend off the mosquitos and it worked very well and eliminated the need to spray DEET all over. Zip-off pants, a long-sleeved tshirt, and hat kept me protected. I used OFF towlettes on my face and hands.
Budget time to stop along Seward Highway to hike or just enjoy the scenery.
Two nights each in Seward and Homer was enough to get a good taste of the towns and hit the highlights. If we had two weeks for our touring, I would have added an additional night in each but not more.
Obviously, lodging reservations must be made in advance, as well as boat tours if you are tied to a particular itinerary. However, there were plenty of kayak outfitters and fishing charters in both Seward and Homer to allow for last minute decisions (so you can see what the weather is like).
The best place for typical souvenirs is WalMart but Native handicrafts (very expensive) and jewelry are best found in small shops. I jotted down several artists' names and found them later on the Internet. I plan to order a few pieces now that I'm home.
We loved the fact that days are SO long during the summer in Alaska. We had lots of energy and packed our days full.
Prices for fresh produce are very high and we missed fresh tomatoes, corn on the cob, melons, squash, and the regular summer bounty we have available at home. Even if you order fresh fruit or veggies in a restaurant, the portions are very small. Prices aren't just high in restaurants; all food is expensive. We bought fruit and snacks for our roadtrip at Safeway and were astonished at the prices.
This trip was probably the most expensive we've ever taken, but also one of the best. Thanks to everyone who answered my posts and gave valuable advice. I never go anywhere without checking with the Fodorites first!
Anchorage:
We arrived at midnight, picked up our SUV rental at Alamo, and drove to the Anchorage Marriott (downtown). The rooms were very nice, had huge picture windows, and we were able to have breakfasts in the concierge lounge.
In the morning, we walked to the visitor's center, through the open-air market (open Sat & Sun), and a few miles of the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail. I wish we had rented bikes to complete the entire trail. We visited the Native Heritage Center for 2 hours and had lunch at Moose's Tooth Brewery. It was packed but service was fast and the pizza and beer were good. From there, we drove to the trailhead and hiked up Flattop Mountain (not a good idea after pizza and beer!). The beginning of the hike is moderate but become very strenuous about 2/3 of the way up. It is very rocky and steep. Good hiking shoes and a full water bottle are necessary. The bonus, though, was a bull moose at the top of the mountain. Views were great and we took lots of pictures. We met two interesting people: a rugged-looking young man with a rifle ("I don't go anywhere near wildlife without it") and a middle-aged man who ran up the mountain TWICE during our trek. Yikes. The hike took 2+ hours. Afterward we drove to Spenard Lake/Lake Hood to look at the float planes and visit the Millenium Hotel. We were told to go there to see their magnificent collection of stuffed wildlife in the lobby and were very glad we did. It is like a museum.
Dinner was at the Glacier Brewhouse (we had made reservations from home the day before). It was good but our server was a piece of work. It is an upscale restaurant but quite noisy. When we returned to Anchorage at the end of the week, we ate at the Snow Goose Cafe/Sleeping Lady Brewery and liked that a lot. It has beautiful quilts and stained glass panels, plus two decks that overlook the water.
The next morning we headed to Seward. Despite the clouds, we stopped at Beluga Point, Bird Creek, and other overlooks for pictures. We stopped for lunch at the Bake Shop at the foot of Mt. Alyeska and their soup & sandwiches were very good. The outdoor tables are surrounded by a fabulous garden and dozens of hanging flowerpots...gorgeous! We used the Toursaver coupon for the tramway and hiked up to the glacier. Looking back, we should have skipped Mt. Alyeska entirely to have more time at Portage Glacier. We enjoyed the visitor's center at Portage Glacier and the turnouts along the road for short hikes. The scenery is amazing.
Seward:
We checked into the Ballaine House B&B. It was not fancy but was very comfortable. The proprietor is very nice and provides a full breakfast, tons of videos and books, and Internet access. She even did some laundry for us the second night! The B&B is centrally located between downtown and the small boat harbor, so we walked downtown first and followed the trail to the harbor, passing by hundreds of RVs parked right on the shore. It was a clear evening and Resurrection Bay was spectacular. We saw several bald eagles right away. Dinner was at Ray's and quite good (the halibut cheeks were the best).
The next day was overcast and rainy but we went on the Kenai Fjords NW Glacier Tour anyway (9 hours). Fortunately, the water was very calm and it never poured rain. We had a consistent drizzle but were still able to spend time outside and took lots of pictures of birds, sea lions, whales, and the glacier. The trip seemed a little too long (maybe weather had something to do with it) and we may have preferred the 6-hour tour instead. We enjoyed watching the fishing charters weigh and clean their catches on the pier(as well as an otter that got hold of a piece of salmon!).
We had dinner that evening at Chinook's in the Small Boat Harbor. Great view and good food but don't order the lobster bisque or the spinach salad.
The next morning we checked out and went to Exit Glacier. We hiked about half of the Harding Icefield trail and I highly recommend it. It affords beautiful views and is a moderate grade for the most part. We hiked to the point where the trail veers away from the glacier (maybe 1.5 or 2 miles up, beyond the plank bridge, until you can look back over the glacier). Afterward we walked the short trail to Exit Glacier but it looks much more spectacular from above.
On the road again...heading towards Homer. We stopped for lunch in Moose Pass at the Trail Lake Lodge, situated on a lovely small lake. The lodge/motel looked very nice and would be a good spot for folks looking to stay a night to break up the drive to Homer or Anchorage. At this point, the mountains are still incredible. After Cooper Landing, the landscape flattens out and isn't too impressive until Homer. Traffic was terrible due to construction in Soldotna.
Homer:
Fortunately, we reserved early enough to get a new 2BR suite at Land's End Resort at the end of Homer Spit. The views from our balcony were beautiful and the beach was right outside our door. After dinner at El Pescador on the Spit (including good Kachemak Bay oysters and halibut tacos), we walked the beach and watched the sky turn orange/pink at sunset.
We spent the morning exploring the Spit and kayaked in the afternoon with St. Augustine's (www.homerkayaking.com). Our group of 6 was taken across Kachemak Bay by water taxi to Peterson Bay and we kayaked there with a guide. All of the coves are pretty protected and the water was calm. The sun disappeared after the first two hours and we finished up our tour in the rain. Such is life in Alaska. Wear Gore-tex!
One of our best meals in Alaska was at Cafe Cups in Homer. The duck was particularly delicious. The restaurant is funky/cute and small (reservations are recommended or you will have a long wait). They have a nice wine list, too.
Early the next morning we walked up the Spit and had coffee and pastries at Spit Sisters Cafe. After a little shopping, we hit the road bound for Anchorage again. We ate in Soldotna in a little cafe tucked in a bookstore near the turnoff to Kenai. This road is not very picturesque until you reach Seward Highway again.
We stayed at Springhill Suites in midtown Anchorage this time. They have a coin laundry and free breakfast buffet. We shopped for souvenirs at Walmart next door (thanks to Fodorites for that tip!).
The next morning we returned the rental car and headed to Lake Clark Air at Merrill Field to be flown to our fishing lodge. I will post a report on Alaska's Wilderness Lodge under another heading since some travelers may not be interested in a week-long fly-fishing experience. Suffice it to say that it was the highlight of our trip! We flew by floatplane from our lodge to a different fishing destination every day and saw unspoiled landscapes, crystal clear glacier lakes, snowy mountains, and wildlife galore. Though we visited Brooks Falls in Katmai National Park one day, it was anticlimatic after fishing on rivers with bears all around us. We were glad we had the opportunity to do both touring and fishing and see so much of our 49th state.
Random thoughts: Dress in layers because the weather changes quickly. There is no need for "nice" clothing anywhere. Use the space in your suitcase for another Gore-tex jacket and hat!
I bought some Buzz-Off clothing at Orvis and LLBean to fend off the mosquitos and it worked very well and eliminated the need to spray DEET all over. Zip-off pants, a long-sleeved tshirt, and hat kept me protected. I used OFF towlettes on my face and hands.
Budget time to stop along Seward Highway to hike or just enjoy the scenery.
Two nights each in Seward and Homer was enough to get a good taste of the towns and hit the highlights. If we had two weeks for our touring, I would have added an additional night in each but not more.
Obviously, lodging reservations must be made in advance, as well as boat tours if you are tied to a particular itinerary. However, there were plenty of kayak outfitters and fishing charters in both Seward and Homer to allow for last minute decisions (so you can see what the weather is like).
The best place for typical souvenirs is WalMart but Native handicrafts (very expensive) and jewelry are best found in small shops. I jotted down several artists' names and found them later on the Internet. I plan to order a few pieces now that I'm home.
We loved the fact that days are SO long during the summer in Alaska. We had lots of energy and packed our days full.
Prices for fresh produce are very high and we missed fresh tomatoes, corn on the cob, melons, squash, and the regular summer bounty we have available at home. Even if you order fresh fruit or veggies in a restaurant, the portions are very small. Prices aren't just high in restaurants; all food is expensive. We bought fruit and snacks for our roadtrip at Safeway and were astonished at the prices.
This trip was probably the most expensive we've ever taken, but also one of the best. Thanks to everyone who answered my posts and gave valuable advice. I never go anywhere without checking with the Fodorites first!
Aug 3rd, 2005 | 01:15 PM
#5
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,156
Likes: 0
Thank you Lina !!
We are leaving to Alaska 8/16 !! from EU and I found this forum simply excellent thanks to everybody like you and all suggestions that I could collect from all others. I will also post my report once back home in september !!
Aug 6th, 2005 | 05:57 AM
#6
Original Poster
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 283
Likes: 0
The report of our second week at the fly-fishing lodge can be found at:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...1&tid=34656562
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...1&tid=34656562
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