We had a great weekend getaway to Healdsburg. The weather was excellent - low to mid 70's with hardly a cloud in the sky. The leaves were turning, so the vineyards were full of green, gold, red and brown.

We stayed at the Calderwood Inn, a 100 year old Victorian mansion converted to a B&B. It was a block walk to the main square, so we were able to walk to dinner both Friday and Saturday evenings. The owner Susan cooked excellent sit-down breakfasts each morning at 9 am.

After driving up from the SF peninsula on Friday morning, we had lunch at the Dry Creek Country Store (Serrano ham and Manchego cheese on focaccia bread). This is what the Oakville grocery in Napa Valley must have been like before the hordes invaded it. I love the food at Oakville but it's always a zoo, where the Dry Creek store was much less busy and crowded.

We tasted wines at We tasted wines at Teldeschi and Unti (excellent) on Dry Creek road, then checked into our B&B. Seghesio was just around the corner, so we walked there and enjoyed both their white Arneis and reds (Zins and a Pinot Noir). Dinner that evening was at Ravenous, and it was excellent. It's a relatively small restaurant, casual dress, with an eclectic menu. We had a fig, procutto and melon appetizer and a great pork chop entree that came with lots of interesting side dishes. Healdsburg closes up early so there's little in the way of night life, but that was fine with us.

On Saturday we went up the smaller West Dry Creek road and tasted excellent Zinfandels at Bella, a very small family operation. Their Lilly Hill Vineyard Zin was our favorite there, and one of the best Zins of the weekend. We also tasted at Ferrari-Carano. They're known for their whites (Chardonnay and Fume Blanc), but we were already familar with them so we went for the reds instead. The winery is beautiful, with excellent views and a nice garden. After another lunch at the Dry Creek store, we took a short hop over to the Alexander Valley and tasted a couple Cabernet Sauvignons from Silver Oak. We preferred their Alexander Valley Cab over the more prestigious Napa Valley Cab.

We headed back to Healdsburg, parked the car and then walked to the square for a little more tasting. We tried Toad Hollow (decent wines at bargain prices, but nothing thrilling for us), Gallo Sonoma (some very good wines but nothing that we wanted to purchase), and Rosenblum Cellars. I'm already a member at Rosenblum and we're huge fans of their Zinfandels and Syrahs.

Dinner Saturday evening was at Cyrus. This is a somewhat new, high-end restaurant just off the main square. We had the 7 course Chef's tasting menu, and it was amazing. The dinner lasted almost 3 hours, and we enjoyed every bit (although we could barely touch the desserts since we were so full!). Highly recommended!

We had a great time all weekend. For us, the Healdsburg area is much nicer to visit than Napa. There are so many wineries though that we'll have to keep coming over and over!

Sounds like a great time. We really enjoyed our time in Healdsburg, we stayed at the Hotel Healdsburg right on the plaza. ***kim***

Just a quick correction to my original post. The Calderwood is a four block walk to the square.

Thanks for your report. We're planning a return in April and have yet to try Cyrus. You gave me a few new places to try here! 66 in Sonoma down and still more to visit. Last time we were in Rosenblum, it was very lively. We made a big mistake by not joining the wine club, but we will rectify that situation on the next trip. Agree with you about Napa, not as much fun there!

love hearing about healdsburg! great info - there's fun to be had from calistoga to north of napa - my wife and i have a mid-week love connection every january for our anniversary (going on 25!) up in the wine country and still find new places to go - we favor yountville area - by all means on your next trip take a bicycle! it's the best way to taste wine and act like a kid at the same time - the french hotel in town there, can't remember its name, has free bikes for people staying there and has the BEST complimentary breakfast - a very nice place for tastings (&excellent wine) is duckhorn, up the silverado trail towards calistoga - restaurant to avoid is tra vigne in spite of one of the best looking bars in those parts - & i still like the oakville grocery, like the crowds & free tastes, fun!

Did you enjoy Calderwood...any particular rooms you'd recommend? We considered that on our first trip, but there were no real reviews here of it.

Stayed at the Grape Leaf instead, but it was quite expensive, I thought! Thanks for any further feedback you might provide on the Calderwood.

Hi alan64! If you enjoyed the Dry Creek Store, then the Jimtown Store may be even more of a delight to you on your next visit. Other side of 101,(Alexander Valley) take Lytton Springs Rd to State Rd 128.
We local folks run from the Oakville grocery,
LOL!
My latest find was Lambert Bridge Winery
It's been on "the list" and we finally
made it. Thr reserve tasting is $5, yet
their Reserve Cuvee's are among the best I have ever tasted.
Healdsburg is a lovely place !
R5

Daydreamer, we really enjoyed the Calderwood but our room was a bit expensive for our usual budget. We were in the Sprinkell @ $270/night. It's the largest room and the only one on the ground floor. Since it's right across from the kitchen, there's a bit of noise in the morning when the cooking starts around 7:30. That wasn't a problem for us as we're up by then. We didn't get to see the other upstairs rooms. Several are around $200 which is probably a better deal, since we don't need such a large room. The included sit-down breakfast was better than most restaurants.

The house is a beautiful converted Victorian mansion, and it's decorated in period pieces. The living room is great for sitting around with the paper in the morning, or sipping wine in the evening. Because the public areas were so nice, I'd be happy with one of the smaller rooms (only the Sprinkell was available when we booked 3 weeks in advance). We would certainly stay at the Calderwood again.

I've never been in the Grape Leaf, but see that some of their rooms are even more expensive. I've seen the outside, and it looks like there have been some modern additions. The restored Calderwood looks like it must have in 1900 or so.

The only other place we stayed at in Healdsburg was the Calderwood. It's less expensive, less fancy, and a more simple buffet breakfast. The location is the best of all three places, but we're only talking a couple blocks so all are close enough to the square to walk (a must in our opinion).

Razzledazzle, we'll be sure to hit the Jimtown Store next trip up. We almost went to Lambert Bridge for a picnic (the grounds looked nice driving by them), but we weren't quite ready for lunch at that time. I think we could go to Healdsburg dozens of times without hitting all the places I'd like to visit!

Thank you, Alan! Appreciate the advice & further feedback re: Calderwood & how best to book a room there.

Yes, the Grape Leaf was QUITE high for what we generally spend at B & B's...
and altho' we really enjoyed their wine tasting get-together & found it very "wine country" befitting...
nevetheless, I'd be hesitant to splurge quite so much again,
unless we get some great rate some time.

But, we did enjoy the wine tastings shared there....they do that very nicely...the best I've ever seen at a B&B. (it can be a bit educational too for a wine novice like myself!)

One question more: You mentioned another place you stayed which you say was less expensive & less 'fancy', but happened to type the name, Calderwood, again. Wondering which place that was?

Lastly, I too recommend a stop at the Jimtown Store if in the area. We dropped by for a light lunch & found it charming...had local color, etc.
The library where I work at, even has their cookbook/recipe book on hand.
They can be pretty creative w/dishes there! Thanks again!

thanks, alan64!
We are planning to spend an anniversary weekend in Glen Ellen in January at the Gaige House.
We've heard about Cyrus, too, and wonder if it's worth the drive back to Glen Ellen? Also, how dressy vs. casual was the place?
Thanks very much.

Sorry about the wrong B&B name. The one we were at last year was the Camellia Inn.

As for Cyrus, I think that's a 45 minute drive from Glenn Ellen. We certainly drive that far to SF for a nice dinner. However, one thing we enjoyed was the wine pairing, and I wouldn't be in a driving state after that (which is why we always look for a place walking distance to the Healdsburg Square). If you've got a designated driver I'd say it's definitely worth it. Beware of a late seating though, since the meal takes a long time. As for dress, I wore a jacket but no tie. A couple men were in suits, but just as many were in khakis and Aloha shirts. I'd suggest slightly dressy/casual, if that makes sense. My girlfriend wore a nice sweater and dress slacks, but comfortable flats since we were walking.

alan, thanks again. That's about what I figured on the dress for Cyrus, so we should be fine; I hate to be underdressed! And thanks for the wine tip, sadly, we'll have to skip the pairings!!