Hanging Loose in Maui Trip Report
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Hanging Loose in Maui Trip Report
Proposed Day 1
Pick up condo supplies in Kahului
Find condo in Wailea, check beach.
Suggestions for fresh fish market?
Day 2
Find macadamia nut pancakes, in Paia?
Reverse route to Hana, driving up from S to N backside of Haleakala (east coast)
Rent snorkel fins
Day 3 Four Winds Snorkel cruise AM
How to find harbor/parking?
Day 4 La Perouse/Aquarium/Fishbowl Snorkeling
Which of these is easiest hike/trail for tenderfoots?
Which has best fish variety?
Kayaking /boat trip not an option.
Day 5 Day Trip to Lanai with jeep.
Best snorkeling beaches from land (Lanai) ?
Best snorkeling beaches if it rains and 4WD useless?
Day 6 Find & Free (Uncle) Willy
Day 7 Snorkel Black Rock, Honolua, Slaughterhouse etc.
Where to Park (for free) and snorkel Black Rock?
Day 8 check in GW
Wailea area Restaurant suggestions for cooked seafood ?
Day 9 GW pools-late check out of paradise
Actual Day 1:
Pick up condo supplies in Kahului
Kmart, on Dairy Road-surprised to find milk under $4/gallon 3
Easily found condo in Grand Champions, Wailea,
The condo was large, this was our first experience with reserving a condo using vrbo.com, placed 1/3 deposit by check, balance paid upon arrival. The condo owner resided in a neighboring studio unit. The condo had a TV/VCR, mini-stereo, range/oven, microwave, dishwasher/disposal and a good air conditioner in the living room and 2 ceiling fans (1 in bedroom, 1 in living room). The bedroom took a while to cool down at night and we were told not to leave AC on if not inside the condo, also the washer and dryer were located outside the condo by the lanai in a common area. There were no afternoon winds or any noticeable wind during our stay in Wailea and daily temperature ranged from 84-89. The 1BR condo was good sized (similar to a condo that we stayed at previously in Kahana) but was priced lower. The bathtub and shower stall were lightly soiled and could have been cleaner IMO. The lanai had a view of a flowering shrub and was very quiet. The grand champion property is located across the street from the parking lot for the Shops at Wailea, but was too far to walk to the beach from and we did not see any obvious path. Parking was with a reserved parking space and parking decal. There was a nice view of the ocean as we exited the condo and walked to the parking spot, opposing view was of the end of a golf course. The grounds were well landscaped and maintained, with conveniently disguised disposal area. The area felt very quiet, safe and secure and the security guard frequently was inside the booth at the entrance. Took a drive and could not find Ulua Beach but managed to find Keawakapu Beach, there were a few people walking there dogs on this beach and they made use of the shower to clean up. Surprised that no one was in the water here, just some kids frolicking on the beach, plenty of parking available, but no restrooms.
Day 2
Had macadamia nut pancakes
at Charlie's in Paia with coconut and maple syrup. 
Neither my wife nor I could finish eating 1 entire pancake, ate about 3/4. Delicious coconut syrup (had to ask for coco syrup). Charlie's was about 1/2 full, service was on the slow side, but price ~$15.00 for 2 a bargain!
Drove
Road to Hana
counterclockwise" or by driving from S to N backside of Haleakala (east coast).
Stopped at the Ulupalakua vineyards revealed in the blue bible. Mrs JohnD found the Maui Splash (Pineapple/Passionfruit wine) and Hawaiian Blue Pineapple wine worth picking up, though in my opinion the Maui Blush tasted the best, and the other few I tasted seemed not in the same league as California or imported fine wines, more like some NY wines I have sampled. IMHO, the vineyards were worth visiting for the historic, scenic grounds and
commencing
the hang loose itinerary. 
Very few cars traveled in this counter
wise (reverse Hana) direction. The backside of Haleakala scenery reminded me of the old lava flows one finds in the trip between KOA airport (Kona) and Waikoloa Beach on the big island of Hawaii. We rented a Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and were pleased with our choice. The paved road turns very bumpy before it turns into a dirt road, which was actually a better ride than the patched pavement. As we bypassed a few vandalized, abandoned cars, we observed some locals headed the opposite way with a large
tied in the back of their truck-Mrs JohnD was pretty
at that site, I wondered if they had been hunting. We met a few drivers in cars (non 4WD) going the opposite direction (normal or clockwise Hana route) concerned whether they would be able to continue (survive) the drive past Hana and on that day we reassured them that they could. If it happened to be rainy, or if one wishes to go off the road, to attempt to reach some beaches along the route for example-I would recommend 4WD, mainly for the increased ground clearance. We did not need to engage the 4WD on our trip. Along the more tropical looking scenic dirt road section, we stopped at Pauko Store for some Haagen-Dazs, we were impressed to find a store here off the beaten path. Located nearby, Auntie Jane's coffee/tea van-stand looked abandoned and overgrown.
After more
stops, we continued on to the 7 Sacred Pools which were flowing strong in late October, but the water was brown. The rangers said that there had been a mudslide on the Pipiwai Trail-so we decided to pass on the brown pools and the hike. However the parking area was full of people, nonetheless. The most memorable falls along the road to Hana were the Wailua Falls. In stark contrast to our last visit in 2001, the beginning of the road to Hana is parched, I could not believe how dry the initial falls are now versus then. No
L Another worthwhile area was the Venus Pool, about half a dozen locals and a couple of tourists were frolicking in the pools when we arrived and the water was nice and blue. In response to previously posed question: Maui's Venus pool is about 10x larger than Kauai's Queens bath, and looked much more appealing. Turned off Hana highway to reach Koki beach where a number of people were boogie boarding. We ate our lunch here and enjoyed the soft red sand beach and waded in the water. Never found Uncle Willy's coconut, but did find roasted coconut and coconut candy at a roadside stand at mile 2 on the Hana Highway. For dinner, picked up 2 styles of fresh Ahi at Foodland, one piece of fish was fine, the other we discarded because it did not look or smell right.
Day 3 Four Winds AM Snorkel cruise to Molokini
We managed to book the last Four Winds tour before they took the boat out of the water for maintenance.
Parking was easy to find by Maui Ocean Center, we decided not to park immediately near the boat because occasional large waves would crash over the seawall dousing the parked cars. The very friendly and attentive crew lived up to and exceeded our expectations. The ~45 minute cruise to Molokini was fun and very smooth, like being on a lake and no one got seasick. The snorkeling at Molokini was fair around the boat, but much larger and more variety could be found venturing closer to the wall of Molokini. This was a tricky area to snorkel because the waves tend to push you into the reef around the wall with many scary sea urchins. Saw many butterfly fish, tangs, surgeonfish, Moorish Idols and an eel. We brought our own disposable flash camera and photos in deep water had a green background, while photos in shallow water near the wall of Molokini came out better. Best photo's were taken where direct sunlight was illuminating the shallower water near the wall of Molokini. . Water access to and from the boat was easy and also included a water slide. The food (hotdogs, hamburgers, chicken, veggie burgers, potato chips)and drink was plentiful and well prepared, and the crew encouraged us to eat as much as we liked. Overall saw a good variety of fish and coral, but the density and variety of fish and water clarity was less than what we experienced near the Captain Cook Memorial on the Big Island aboard the Fairwind II.
Day 4.
Got off to a late start 9AM, rented fins at the Dive Shop in the Shops at Wailea. They did not have the fins that fit over water shoes, something I would much regret later. (But they said that we could get them from their warehouse-elsewhere
). Went to Ulua Beach, on this first day there were about a dozen people snorkeling here and it was a little on the crowded side, but among the best snorkeling we have seen on Maui. My wife saw an eel and I saw the same fish described as with Molokini, and additionally saw and photographed a large stickfish and unicornfish, while on another day swam alongside and photographed underwater a large turtle. Divers were also exploring this area. Part of the Ulua parking lot was being increased and paved, but we were able to find parking when we needed it. Followed the beach path signs to the ~o) Starbucks ~o) in the Renaissance Wailea. The grounds of the RW were lush, tropical and well maintained.
Made reservations for sunset dinner following the Blue bible's top pick: Sarentos. We telephoned in our reservation and asked for an ocean side view for 5:45 sunset dinner and the person answering told us that all seating had an ocean view. When we got to Sarentos they explained that we did not get an ocean front view because that requires days in advance reservation, something they could have pointed out to us over the phone, nonetheless we still had an ocean view but were 2 tables away from those lucky ((&))((&)) with an ocean front view. I had to shrug off my waiter (and some odd looks as well) who was more concerned with ordering dinner, to snag a few photo's of the awesome
sunset
which goes down fast around 6PM. On other nights, I noticed clouds on the horizon can obscure the beautiful sunset we saw. My wife had the Cioppino (assorted seafood), while I had the macadamia nut crusted Opakapaka (Pink snapper). Both courses were excellent in bold sauces, and the gelato desert tasted a bit like ice cream. The service was brisk but cool.
Day 5. Day trip to Lanai
Used Tom Barefoot's Cashback Tours to book the Expeditions Explore Lanai package with Jeep and Ferry Tickets.Total cost for 2 people including roundtrip ferry tickets, and Jeep for 24 hours on Lanai was $228.
Drove from Wailea to Lanai to catch the 6:45AM ferry and could not find any free public parking in front of the Pioneer Inn, but there were free spots for 3hour maximum available. A police officer suggested we try the lot behind the burger king, but that machine was not accepting cash. Drove to another pay lot across from the Expeditions office and tried to pay $20 for 24 hour parking, even though we were only going to be gone for 12 hours. The parking machine ate one $10 bill without giving us credit, and we called the number but no one
us back, so in total we spent $30 to park for 12 hours. On our last visit in 2001 we did not encounter these cash-grabbing $) machines, and are disappointed with their inconsistent performance. We boarded the ferry on time and sat on top of the ferry at the rear of the boat and enjoyed the view, but the ride was rough due to a Kona wind, and I was counting each every minute of the 45 to reach Lanai.
amp; Fortunately we made it without getting seasick, and the return ride in the evening was calmer than in the morning. Upon reaching Lanai a complimentary shuttle whisked us past a pretty dry and barren landscape, except for some recently planted Cook's pinetrees, to the Dollar rental office in Lanai City, where the only gas station in Lanai is also located. We had about a dozen jeeps to choose from so we picked a Wrangler with a hard top and air conditioning. We drove around Lanai city looking for sandwiches but only the "Blue Ginger Store" was open at 7AM. The Dollar rental agents were very friendly and gave us a map with about half a dozen routes including unpaved dirt roads we could explore, and only cautioned us from driving in the area south of shipwreck beach. Our time was limited so I choose the route to the Garden of the Gods and Polihua Beach. The road to garden of the gods starts just after the Lodge at Koele and was more like a farmers field trail than a road. Driving the crowned, washboard surface dirt road to Garden of Gods was fun compared to the drive afterwards to Polihua Beach which was covered with rocks and ruts and extremely bumpy, twisty, and time consuming. The reward in the Garden was an impressively large area of stacked rock formations, good for some photos before heading to the beach. Only one other jeep passed that us morning to the Garden, and we caught up with them at Polihua beach. They had rented a jeep from another vendor with aggressive balloon tires, but nonetheless were axle deep stuck in the sand when we arrived. It turns out that their jeep which has 4WD written on it, only had 2WD, so our visit to the beach turned into a rescue mission because no one else was there. Polihua beach was beautiful with large flakes of golden sand and deserted other than our 2 jeeps. The beach was swimmable and offered a view of Maui. We ate our lunch and drove the stranded back to Koele Lodge-which we briefly toured. The lodge occupies a lot of lawn space with croquet and other unusual lawn sporting areas. We were very impressed by the collection of flowers in the
Orchid
house-which made for great photos. We next headed to Hulopo'e Beach Park to try snorkeling, but the surf was too rough and only about 4-5 people were in the ocean. There is a nice large beach with showers there. We next visited the Manele Bay Hotel. This hotel more closely resembled the hotels on Maui etc, than Koele. Overall I was struck at how non tropical, or more Wailea-like if you will, Lanai appeared. If "Hawaii is like the Virgin Islands on steroids", then I would consider Lanai to be like Kauai on Valium. However if you're into isolated, rugged, off road 4WD exploring, this is the place for you, just watch for the speed trap on the road from the airport
Day 6 La Perouse Bay
We got off to a late start and arrived at La Perouse about 9:30AM. We tried snorkeling right where they bring in the kayaks, and this is a tricky area to get into the water and try to put fins on due to sharp slippery rocks and waves. The snorkeling was good and you could corner the fish up close between the rock formations. Photo's here came out the best with the marine blue water one sees in the Caribbean. I had difficulty exiting La Perouse and chummed the water with some scrapes on my hand and legs while trying to get the fins off and walk out over the lava
. My wife declined on snorkeling here. Would recommend covering any exposed skin if you snorkel here.
Drove to the IAO needle park. Got some cool photos and some info. on the history of the battles that occurred here. Several people waded out into the river pools here and emergency personnel were conducting a river rescue training operation.
Had dinner at A Saigon Café. Went with the excellent Beef, Chicken, and Shrimp burritos. Café is hard to find but has
stars
on rooftop at night which you pass if headed mauka on 32 to the IAO needle, highly recommend it for the price!
Day 7. Kaanapali, & Honolua.
Got to the Sheraton around 8:30 AM and managed to find the beach access parking, after asking the parking lot attendant where it was-and there were even a few empty spots! Snorkeled Black Rock, there were about a dozen others there and some scuba, but conditions were on the rough side and I only saw good fish (large Moorish Idols) way out in the deep water. Kaanapali beach in front of the Sheraton was the largest and widest stretch of beach we saw on Maui. The resorts south of the Sheraton (Hyatt, Marriott) were undergoing a sandbagging operation to prevent erosion of their coastline. We continued on to Honolua Bay.
Honolua Bay boat ramp is reached by a 5-10 minute walk culminating near a ZZ-top like bearded tree. Access was down a boat ramp surrounded by rocks that was slippery below the waterline, but easier than La Perouse. Saw a good variety of fish immediately next to the boat ramp, including a half dozen Moorish Idols, parrotfish, goatfish, butterflyfish, tangs, in relatively clear, calm, shallow water. A few snorkel boats were also anchored in the bay, which contains some live coral. Mrs JohnD had difficulty exiting up the slippery, rocky boat ramp. I would rate Honolua and Ulua to be the best snorkel spots for us on our visit.
Drove on past Honolua to Kahului via the west Maui mountains/coast. The road has been repaved and really upgraded since our first visit in 2001 and only took about an hour to two to drive with photostops. Saw a friendly white horse along the side of the road and some waterfalls and steep cliffs.
Picked up some
spices
and fruit at a small stand.
It rained very heavily in Kihei on our drive home, so much in fact there were puddles left midway through the following day. Every day it seemed to be sprinkling around Ma'alaea. On Lanai, the locals said it has been unusually hot and dry, and they are looking for some relief in terms of cooler weather and rain.
We ate dinner at SPAGO at the 4S. We both had the macadamia nut crusted salmon over taro. Our compliments to Wolfgang! For dessert we split the decadent 7 layer truffle
cake, which contained molten chocolate and was delicious. Service was warm and we had an ocean-front view of the 4S grounds and SPAGO lived up to our expectations.
Day 8. GW
Check out of condo and into the Grand Wailea. My wife somehow persuaded the front desk to upgrade us from a terrace room to the Deluxe Ocean King. The room located on the 8th floor (one floor below top floor #9) was great with 2 ceiling fans, A/C, and very comfortable hardwood furniture inside and also on the lanai. The lanai overlooked the lush, tropical grounds of the GW, and all we heard were the sounds of birds, waterfalls, palm trees, and the garden atmosphere seemed like we were on Kauai, rather than in the more arid Wailea area. I was surprised that we could not see or hear activity at the large pool area from our room. I totally agree with Islandmom's previous statement about: " just wanting to live at the Grand Wailea". We had a blast
on the water slides, rapids, and lazy river area and enjoyed the sandy bottom area of the pool. We were shocked at the $125 charge/day to rent a poolside cabana, but had no problems finding open lounge chairs. None of the adjacent resorts had pools approaching what is available at GW, perhaps because Wailea beach is such an awesome swimming beach with freely available beach chairs in front of GW.
Dinner at Humuhumunukunukuapua'a. We made a 5:45 sunset dinner reservation, and only about a dozen others were dining there at that time, it later filled to about 1/3 capacity. The Polynesian style huts on the fish pond was an outstanding dining experience for us. We ordered the combination seafood appetizer which had large fried shrimp, some ahi sushi, lobster pasta, and more served in a yard long oval dish. For entrée's, I went with the succulent Kona lobster tails and filet mignon and
Tsunami
, and my wife went with the macadamia nut crusted dolphinfish. This was by far the best dining experience we had on this 2nd trip to Maui, rivaling our previous visit to Mama's Fish House. A string duet played and sang at least 1
song
at every table, the only one I recognized was "Blue Hawaii". The waiter was very friendly and took time to discuss the variety of fish in the fishponds swimming around the restaurant and pointed at the pair of enormous boxfish (bigger than a
cat) that live in the pond. The
sunset
view made for great photo's with reflections from the "endless" fishpool to the ocean. A good variety of colorful reef fish, typical of what one sees snorkeling, were beautifully illuminated in the restaurant's aquarium.
Day 9.
Walked the path adjoining the Wailea resorts one last time and enjoyed the pools at GW. Ate lunch at the poolside Volcano dining area, where some friendly birds joined us before our late check out of paradise and long flight home
. Check out at GW is at noon, and since our flight was at 5PM, the GW made a complimentary terrace room available for us so we could further enjoy the pool until the afternoon, and then shower and change in terrace room before heading to the airport. The GW exceeded all our expectations, and is tops
with us.
. Returned our jeep to rental company and no problems or extra charges were incurred despite our driving in areas marked on the map as
"violation of rental agreement".
Read about the recent shark attacks while connecting flights in HNL, surprised to see one occurred in Kihei a few weeks ago, we did not see any in Wailea. 
Finally, a big Mahalo
>- to all the Fodorites that made suggestions/comments about this trip and a special thanks to Suzie
who had the most relevant info. for us! Aloooooohaaaaa 
Pick up condo supplies in Kahului
Find condo in Wailea, check beach.
Suggestions for fresh fish market?
Day 2
Find macadamia nut pancakes, in Paia?
Reverse route to Hana, driving up from S to N backside of Haleakala (east coast)
Rent snorkel fins
Day 3 Four Winds Snorkel cruise AM
How to find harbor/parking?
Day 4 La Perouse/Aquarium/Fishbowl Snorkeling
Which of these is easiest hike/trail for tenderfoots?
Which has best fish variety?
Kayaking /boat trip not an option.
Day 5 Day Trip to Lanai with jeep.
Best snorkeling beaches from land (Lanai) ?
Best snorkeling beaches if it rains and 4WD useless?
Day 6 Find & Free (Uncle) Willy
Day 7 Snorkel Black Rock, Honolua, Slaughterhouse etc.
Where to Park (for free) and snorkel Black Rock?
Day 8 check in GW
Wailea area Restaurant suggestions for cooked seafood ?
Day 9 GW pools-late check out of paradise
Actual Day 1:
Pick up condo supplies in Kahului
Kmart, on Dairy Road-surprised to find milk under $4/gallon 3

Easily found condo in Grand Champions, Wailea,
The condo was large, this was our first experience with reserving a condo using vrbo.com, placed 1/3 deposit by check, balance paid upon arrival. The condo owner resided in a neighboring studio unit. The condo had a TV/VCR, mini-stereo, range/oven, microwave, dishwasher/disposal and a good air conditioner in the living room and 2 ceiling fans (1 in bedroom, 1 in living room). The bedroom took a while to cool down at night and we were told not to leave AC on if not inside the condo, also the washer and dryer were located outside the condo by the lanai in a common area. There were no afternoon winds or any noticeable wind during our stay in Wailea and daily temperature ranged from 84-89. The 1BR condo was good sized (similar to a condo that we stayed at previously in Kahana) but was priced lower. The bathtub and shower stall were lightly soiled and could have been cleaner IMO. The lanai had a view of a flowering shrub and was very quiet. The grand champion property is located across the street from the parking lot for the Shops at Wailea, but was too far to walk to the beach from and we did not see any obvious path. Parking was with a reserved parking space and parking decal. There was a nice view of the ocean as we exited the condo and walked to the parking spot, opposing view was of the end of a golf course. The grounds were well landscaped and maintained, with conveniently disguised disposal area. The area felt very quiet, safe and secure and the security guard frequently was inside the booth at the entrance. Took a drive and could not find Ulua Beach but managed to find Keawakapu Beach, there were a few people walking there dogs on this beach and they made use of the shower to clean up. Surprised that no one was in the water here, just some kids frolicking on the beach, plenty of parking available, but no restrooms.
Day 2
Had macadamia nut pancakes
at Charlie's in Paia with coconut and maple syrup. 
Neither my wife nor I could finish eating 1 entire pancake, ate about 3/4. Delicious coconut syrup (had to ask for coco syrup). Charlie's was about 1/2 full, service was on the slow side, but price ~$15.00 for 2 a bargain!
Drove
Road to Hana
counterclockwise" or by driving from S to N backside of Haleakala (east coast).Stopped at the Ulupalakua vineyards revealed in the blue bible. Mrs JohnD found the Maui Splash (Pineapple/Passionfruit wine) and Hawaiian Blue Pineapple wine worth picking up, though in my opinion the Maui Blush tasted the best, and the other few I tasted seemed not in the same league as California or imported fine wines, more like some NY wines I have sampled. IMHO, the vineyards were worth visiting for the historic, scenic grounds and
commencing
the hang loose itinerary. 
Very few cars traveled in this counter
wise (reverse Hana) direction. The backside of Haleakala scenery reminded me of the old lava flows one finds in the trip between KOA airport (Kona) and Waikoloa Beach on the big island of Hawaii. We rented a Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and were pleased with our choice. The paved road turns very bumpy before it turns into a dirt road, which was actually a better ride than the patched pavement. As we bypassed a few vandalized, abandoned cars, we observed some locals headed the opposite way with a large
tied in the back of their truck-Mrs JohnD was pretty
at that site, I wondered if they had been hunting. We met a few drivers in cars (non 4WD) going the opposite direction (normal or clockwise Hana route) concerned whether they would be able to continue (survive) the drive past Hana and on that day we reassured them that they could. If it happened to be rainy, or if one wishes to go off the road, to attempt to reach some beaches along the route for example-I would recommend 4WD, mainly for the increased ground clearance. We did not need to engage the 4WD on our trip. Along the more tropical looking scenic dirt road section, we stopped at Pauko Store for some Haagen-Dazs, we were impressed to find a store here off the beaten path. Located nearby, Auntie Jane's coffee/tea van-stand looked abandoned and overgrown.After more
stops, we continued on to the 7 Sacred Pools which were flowing strong in late October, but the water was brown. The rangers said that there had been a mudslide on the Pipiwai Trail-so we decided to pass on the brown pools and the hike. However the parking area was full of people, nonetheless. The most memorable falls along the road to Hana were the Wailua Falls. In stark contrast to our last visit in 2001, the beginning of the road to Hana is parched, I could not believe how dry the initial falls are now versus then. No
L Another worthwhile area was the Venus Pool, about half a dozen locals and a couple of tourists were frolicking in the pools when we arrived and the water was nice and blue. In response to previously posed question: Maui's Venus pool is about 10x larger than Kauai's Queens bath, and looked much more appealing. Turned off Hana highway to reach Koki beach where a number of people were boogie boarding. We ate our lunch here and enjoyed the soft red sand beach and waded in the water. Never found Uncle Willy's coconut, but did find roasted coconut and coconut candy at a roadside stand at mile 2 on the Hana Highway. For dinner, picked up 2 styles of fresh Ahi at Foodland, one piece of fish was fine, the other we discarded because it did not look or smell right.Day 3 Four Winds AM Snorkel cruise to Molokini
We managed to book the last Four Winds tour before they took the boat out of the water for maintenance.
Parking was easy to find by Maui Ocean Center, we decided not to park immediately near the boat because occasional large waves would crash over the seawall dousing the parked cars. The very friendly and attentive crew lived up to and exceeded our expectations. The ~45 minute cruise to Molokini was fun and very smooth, like being on a lake and no one got seasick. The snorkeling at Molokini was fair around the boat, but much larger and more variety could be found venturing closer to the wall of Molokini. This was a tricky area to snorkel because the waves tend to push you into the reef around the wall with many scary sea urchins. Saw many butterfly fish, tangs, surgeonfish, Moorish Idols and an eel. We brought our own disposable flash camera and photos in deep water had a green background, while photos in shallow water near the wall of Molokini came out better. Best photo's were taken where direct sunlight was illuminating the shallower water near the wall of Molokini. . Water access to and from the boat was easy and also included a water slide. The food (hotdogs, hamburgers, chicken, veggie burgers, potato chips)and drink was plentiful and well prepared, and the crew encouraged us to eat as much as we liked. Overall saw a good variety of fish and coral, but the density and variety of fish and water clarity was less than what we experienced near the Captain Cook Memorial on the Big Island aboard the Fairwind II.
Day 4.
Got off to a late start 9AM, rented fins at the Dive Shop in the Shops at Wailea. They did not have the fins that fit over water shoes, something I would much regret later. (But they said that we could get them from their warehouse-elsewhere
). Went to Ulua Beach, on this first day there were about a dozen people snorkeling here and it was a little on the crowded side, but among the best snorkeling we have seen on Maui. My wife saw an eel and I saw the same fish described as with Molokini, and additionally saw and photographed a large stickfish and unicornfish, while on another day swam alongside and photographed underwater a large turtle. Divers were also exploring this area. Part of the Ulua parking lot was being increased and paved, but we were able to find parking when we needed it. Followed the beach path signs to the ~o) Starbucks ~o) in the Renaissance Wailea. The grounds of the RW were lush, tropical and well maintained. Made reservations for sunset dinner following the Blue bible's top pick: Sarentos. We telephoned in our reservation and asked for an ocean side view for 5:45 sunset dinner and the person answering told us that all seating had an ocean view. When we got to Sarentos they explained that we did not get an ocean front view because that requires days in advance reservation, something they could have pointed out to us over the phone, nonetheless we still had an ocean view but were 2 tables away from those lucky ((&))((&)) with an ocean front view. I had to shrug off my waiter (and some odd looks as well) who was more concerned with ordering dinner, to snag a few photo's of the awesome
sunset
which goes down fast around 6PM. On other nights, I noticed clouds on the horizon can obscure the beautiful sunset we saw. My wife had the Cioppino (assorted seafood), while I had the macadamia nut crusted Opakapaka (Pink snapper). Both courses were excellent in bold sauces, and the gelato desert tasted a bit like ice cream. The service was brisk but cool.Day 5. Day trip to Lanai
Used Tom Barefoot's Cashback Tours to book the Expeditions Explore Lanai package with Jeep and Ferry Tickets.Total cost for 2 people including roundtrip ferry tickets, and Jeep for 24 hours on Lanai was $228.
Drove from Wailea to Lanai to catch the 6:45AM ferry and could not find any free public parking in front of the Pioneer Inn, but there were free spots for 3hour maximum available. A police officer suggested we try the lot behind the burger king, but that machine was not accepting cash. Drove to another pay lot across from the Expeditions office and tried to pay $20 for 24 hour parking, even though we were only going to be gone for 12 hours. The parking machine ate one $10 bill without giving us credit, and we called the number but no one
us back, so in total we spent $30 to park for 12 hours. On our last visit in 2001 we did not encounter these cash-grabbing $) machines, and are disappointed with their inconsistent performance. We boarded the ferry on time and sat on top of the ferry at the rear of the boat and enjoyed the view, but the ride was rough due to a Kona wind, and I was counting each every minute of the 45 to reach Lanai.
amp; Fortunately we made it without getting seasick, and the return ride in the evening was calmer than in the morning. Upon reaching Lanai a complimentary shuttle whisked us past a pretty dry and barren landscape, except for some recently planted Cook's pinetrees, to the Dollar rental office in Lanai City, where the only gas station in Lanai is also located. We had about a dozen jeeps to choose from so we picked a Wrangler with a hard top and air conditioning. We drove around Lanai city looking for sandwiches but only the "Blue Ginger Store" was open at 7AM. The Dollar rental agents were very friendly and gave us a map with about half a dozen routes including unpaved dirt roads we could explore, and only cautioned us from driving in the area south of shipwreck beach. Our time was limited so I choose the route to the Garden of the Gods and Polihua Beach. The road to garden of the gods starts just after the Lodge at Koele and was more like a farmers field trail than a road. Driving the crowned, washboard surface dirt road to Garden of Gods was fun compared to the drive afterwards to Polihua Beach which was covered with rocks and ruts and extremely bumpy, twisty, and time consuming. The reward in the Garden was an impressively large area of stacked rock formations, good for some photos before heading to the beach. Only one other jeep passed that us morning to the Garden, and we caught up with them at Polihua beach. They had rented a jeep from another vendor with aggressive balloon tires, but nonetheless were axle deep stuck in the sand when we arrived. It turns out that their jeep which has 4WD written on it, only had 2WD, so our visit to the beach turned into a rescue mission because no one else was there. Polihua beach was beautiful with large flakes of golden sand and deserted other than our 2 jeeps. The beach was swimmable and offered a view of Maui. We ate our lunch and drove the stranded back to Koele Lodge-which we briefly toured. The lodge occupies a lot of lawn space with croquet and other unusual lawn sporting areas. We were very impressed by the collection of flowers in the
Orchid
house-which made for great photos. We next headed to Hulopo'e Beach Park to try snorkeling, but the surf was too rough and only about 4-5 people were in the ocean. There is a nice large beach with showers there. We next visited the Manele Bay Hotel. This hotel more closely resembled the hotels on Maui etc, than Koele. Overall I was struck at how non tropical, or more Wailea-like if you will, Lanai appeared. If "Hawaii is like the Virgin Islands on steroids", then I would consider Lanai to be like Kauai on Valium. However if you're into isolated, rugged, off road 4WD exploring, this is the place for you, just watch for the speed trap on the road from the airportDay 6 La Perouse Bay
We got off to a late start and arrived at La Perouse about 9:30AM. We tried snorkeling right where they bring in the kayaks, and this is a tricky area to get into the water and try to put fins on due to sharp slippery rocks and waves. The snorkeling was good and you could corner the fish up close between the rock formations. Photo's here came out the best with the marine blue water one sees in the Caribbean. I had difficulty exiting La Perouse and chummed the water with some scrapes on my hand and legs while trying to get the fins off and walk out over the lava
. My wife declined on snorkeling here. Would recommend covering any exposed skin if you snorkel here. Drove to the IAO needle park. Got some cool photos and some info. on the history of the battles that occurred here. Several people waded out into the river pools here and emergency personnel were conducting a river rescue training operation.
Had dinner at A Saigon Café. Went with the excellent Beef, Chicken, and Shrimp burritos. Café is hard to find but has
stars
on rooftop at night which you pass if headed mauka on 32 to the IAO needle, highly recommend it for the price! Day 7. Kaanapali, & Honolua.
Got to the Sheraton around 8:30 AM and managed to find the beach access parking, after asking the parking lot attendant where it was-and there were even a few empty spots! Snorkeled Black Rock, there were about a dozen others there and some scuba, but conditions were on the rough side and I only saw good fish (large Moorish Idols) way out in the deep water. Kaanapali beach in front of the Sheraton was the largest and widest stretch of beach we saw on Maui. The resorts south of the Sheraton (Hyatt, Marriott) were undergoing a sandbagging operation to prevent erosion of their coastline. We continued on to Honolua Bay.
Honolua Bay boat ramp is reached by a 5-10 minute walk culminating near a ZZ-top like bearded tree. Access was down a boat ramp surrounded by rocks that was slippery below the waterline, but easier than La Perouse. Saw a good variety of fish immediately next to the boat ramp, including a half dozen Moorish Idols, parrotfish, goatfish, butterflyfish, tangs, in relatively clear, calm, shallow water. A few snorkel boats were also anchored in the bay, which contains some live coral. Mrs JohnD had difficulty exiting up the slippery, rocky boat ramp. I would rate Honolua and Ulua to be the best snorkel spots for us on our visit.
Drove on past Honolua to Kahului via the west Maui mountains/coast. The road has been repaved and really upgraded since our first visit in 2001 and only took about an hour to two to drive with photostops. Saw a friendly white horse along the side of the road and some waterfalls and steep cliffs.
Picked up some
spices
and fruit at a small stand. It rained very heavily in Kihei on our drive home, so much in fact there were puddles left midway through the following day. Every day it seemed to be sprinkling around Ma'alaea. On Lanai, the locals said it has been unusually hot and dry, and they are looking for some relief in terms of cooler weather and rain.

We ate dinner at SPAGO at the 4S. We both had the macadamia nut crusted salmon over taro. Our compliments to Wolfgang! For dessert we split the decadent 7 layer truffle
cake, which contained molten chocolate and was delicious. Service was warm and we had an ocean-front view of the 4S grounds and SPAGO lived up to our expectations.Day 8. GW
Check out of condo and into the Grand Wailea. My wife somehow persuaded the front desk to upgrade us from a terrace room to the Deluxe Ocean King. The room located on the 8th floor (one floor below top floor #9) was great with 2 ceiling fans, A/C, and very comfortable hardwood furniture inside and also on the lanai. The lanai overlooked the lush, tropical grounds of the GW, and all we heard were the sounds of birds, waterfalls, palm trees, and the garden atmosphere seemed like we were on Kauai, rather than in the more arid Wailea area. I was surprised that we could not see or hear activity at the large pool area from our room. I totally agree with Islandmom's previous statement about: " just wanting to live at the Grand Wailea". We had a blast
on the water slides, rapids, and lazy river area and enjoyed the sandy bottom area of the pool. We were shocked at the $125 charge/day to rent a poolside cabana, but had no problems finding open lounge chairs. None of the adjacent resorts had pools approaching what is available at GW, perhaps because Wailea beach is such an awesome swimming beach with freely available beach chairs in front of GW. Dinner at Humuhumunukunukuapua'a. We made a 5:45 sunset dinner reservation, and only about a dozen others were dining there at that time, it later filled to about 1/3 capacity. The Polynesian style huts on the fish pond was an outstanding dining experience for us. We ordered the combination seafood appetizer which had large fried shrimp, some ahi sushi, lobster pasta, and more served in a yard long oval dish. For entrée's, I went with the succulent Kona lobster tails and filet mignon and
Tsunami
, and my wife went with the macadamia nut crusted dolphinfish. This was by far the best dining experience we had on this 2nd trip to Maui, rivaling our previous visit to Mama's Fish House. A string duet played and sang at least 1
song
at every table, the only one I recognized was "Blue Hawaii". The waiter was very friendly and took time to discuss the variety of fish in the fishponds swimming around the restaurant and pointed at the pair of enormous boxfish (bigger than a
cat) that live in the pond. The
sunset
view made for great photo's with reflections from the "endless" fishpool to the ocean. A good variety of colorful reef fish, typical of what one sees snorkeling, were beautifully illuminated in the restaurant's aquarium.Day 9.
Walked the path adjoining the Wailea resorts one last time and enjoyed the pools at GW. Ate lunch at the poolside Volcano dining area, where some friendly birds joined us before our late check out of paradise and long flight home
. Check out at GW is at noon, and since our flight was at 5PM, the GW made a complimentary terrace room available for us so we could further enjoy the pool until the afternoon, and then shower and change in terrace room before heading to the airport. The GW exceeded all our expectations, and is tops
with us.
"violation of rental agreement".
Read about the recent shark attacks while connecting flights in HNL, surprised to see one occurred in Kihei a few weeks ago, we did not see any in Wailea. 
Finally, a big Mahalo
>- to all the Fodorites that made suggestions/comments about this trip and a special thanks to Suzie
who had the most relevant info. for us! Aloooooohaaaaa 
#4
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 316
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great advice, suggestions and reporting JohnD!!
especially helpful to me since we'll be on Maui end of December for a week. staying in Wailea at the Outrigger. the walking path in front of the hotels sounds like a nice way to get a little exercise first thing in the a.m.....
we have booked a Four Winds morning snorkel trip, but from what you say and what others have said, it seems to be more about the sailing and being on the water than having an incredible snorkeling experience. i now want to make sure that i bring my own equipment so i can snorkel at other places too. as for taking the ferry over to Lanai: we were thinking of just going over and trying to find a way to avoid renting a car: some say there is a shuttle bus that goes between Lanai City and the two hotels....i am not completely sold on going over there...it may prove too difficult to tear ourselves away from the beach!
someone here at work said Paia is a great little town and not to be missed. my friend is not crazy about doing the drive to Hana and is lobbying for a helicopter tour that goes over Haleakala and parts of Hana instead. i am going to try to do some horsebackriding also...Makena Stables offers a sunset ride above La Perouse Bay that sounds nice.....did you happen to go into the Shops of Wailea? is it just an upscale mall that could be anywhere, or is there some interesting stuff there? i believe this is right across from the Outrigger?? thanks!
especially helpful to me since we'll be on Maui end of December for a week. staying in Wailea at the Outrigger. the walking path in front of the hotels sounds like a nice way to get a little exercise first thing in the a.m.....
we have booked a Four Winds morning snorkel trip, but from what you say and what others have said, it seems to be more about the sailing and being on the water than having an incredible snorkeling experience. i now want to make sure that i bring my own equipment so i can snorkel at other places too. as for taking the ferry over to Lanai: we were thinking of just going over and trying to find a way to avoid renting a car: some say there is a shuttle bus that goes between Lanai City and the two hotels....i am not completely sold on going over there...it may prove too difficult to tear ourselves away from the beach!
someone here at work said Paia is a great little town and not to be missed. my friend is not crazy about doing the drive to Hana and is lobbying for a helicopter tour that goes over Haleakala and parts of Hana instead. i am going to try to do some horsebackriding also...Makena Stables offers a sunset ride above La Perouse Bay that sounds nice.....did you happen to go into the Shops of Wailea? is it just an upscale mall that could be anywhere, or is there some interesting stuff there? i believe this is right across from the Outrigger?? thanks!
#6
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Joined: Feb 2003
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Hey miscrapper, We drove the "backwards Hana" route, because on our 1st visit to Maui (2001), we drove the normal route and by the time we got to Kipahulu, we thought we had seen enough and it was close to getting dark. Also on our 1st visit we did not have "Maui Revealed" telling us it was OK to drive on past Hana. We left Charley's in Paia around 9AM and stopped a dozen times or more for the winery, photos, video, ice cream, etc, and so did not reach Kipahulu until about 1PM. If you do not stop everywhere, I would guess that you could do it in 2 hours or so-depending how fast you want drive on bumpy roads.
Aloha Kal, believe it or not we are already contemplating our anniversary trip to Kauai next spring.
Hey Stellaluna, The FourWinds trip is really a fun time in a unique location, I am sure the Scuba is much more impressive than the Molokini snorkeling, and incidentally the 4Winds does offer SNUBA- if you're up for it (costs extra). With regard to Lanai, we saw the shuttles where the ferry lands but unless you have activities planned at the hotels, I would want a 4WD Jeep on Lanai to go exploring. I do not think the beach at Manele bay hotel is much different than what can be found on Maui. The upscale Wailea shops did not strike me as offering anything unique, my wife checked out Tahitian Pearls in a shop for around $1,000, then went to KMart and purchased some similar looking black pearls marked down from ~$400 to ~$100 dollars. You can't get any closer to the shops at Wailea if you are staying at the Outrigger across the street. Walmart (Dairy Rd) also had decent looking affordable snorkel gear.
Aloha Bluefan, would have liked to follow up on more of your snorkeling/hiking suggestions but the Mrs had other ideas. Be sure to add Charlie's to your Macnut pancake purveyors list and mahalo again for your help.
Aloha Kal, believe it or not we are already contemplating our anniversary trip to Kauai next spring.
Hey Stellaluna, The FourWinds trip is really a fun time in a unique location, I am sure the Scuba is much more impressive than the Molokini snorkeling, and incidentally the 4Winds does offer SNUBA- if you're up for it (costs extra). With regard to Lanai, we saw the shuttles where the ferry lands but unless you have activities planned at the hotels, I would want a 4WD Jeep on Lanai to go exploring. I do not think the beach at Manele bay hotel is much different than what can be found on Maui. The upscale Wailea shops did not strike me as offering anything unique, my wife checked out Tahitian Pearls in a shop for around $1,000, then went to KMart and purchased some similar looking black pearls marked down from ~$400 to ~$100 dollars. You can't get any closer to the shops at Wailea if you are staying at the Outrigger across the street. Walmart (Dairy Rd) also had decent looking affordable snorkel gear.
Aloha Bluefan, would have liked to follow up on more of your snorkeling/hiking suggestions but the Mrs had other ideas. Be sure to add Charlie's to your Macnut pancake purveyors list and mahalo again for your help.
#7
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 487
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Hey JohnD,
Great Report! It took me back (vicariously) to our trip to Maui this past summer. I think your idea to take the Hana road "backwards" was a super idea - I wondered if you "beat the crowds" that way (but sadly it doesn't seem you did). I was thinking of doing that next trip. Your trip to Lanai sounds intriquing - that may be on my wish list too! Thanks for sharing.
Great Report! It took me back (vicariously) to our trip to Maui this past summer. I think your idea to take the Hana road "backwards" was a super idea - I wondered if you "beat the crowds" that way (but sadly it doesn't seem you did). I was thinking of doing that next trip. Your trip to Lanai sounds intriquing - that may be on my wish list too! Thanks for sharing.
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#8
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Joined: Feb 2003
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Hey Dolciani,
I would only recommend the reverse Hana route if you have already done Hana the normal way, because when there is alot of rainfall like in 2001, the beginning of Hana is incredible with waterfalls, whereas the reverse trip is very likely to be dry and moonlike. Seems like the blue bible considers reverse Hana a heretic excersize in terms of photography-but our photos and video seemed OK, though the setting sun may add another color dimension.
I would only recommend the reverse Hana route if you have already done Hana the normal way, because when there is alot of rainfall like in 2001, the beginning of Hana is incredible with waterfalls, whereas the reverse trip is very likely to be dry and moonlike. Seems like the blue bible considers reverse Hana a heretic excersize in terms of photography-but our photos and video seemed OK, though the setting sun may add another color dimension.
#9
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 728
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Good, enjoyable report.
Stellaluna: You may wish to view:www.shopsatwailea.com to get a picture of the tenant mix. Half generic upscale, half local.
Stellaluna: You may wish to view:www.shopsatwailea.com to get a picture of the tenant mix. Half generic upscale, half local.
#10
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 617
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JohnD...wonderful report! Like you, I have been to Maui twice now, and plan to visit Kauai next. Your taste in accomodations and activities sounds similar to ours...so,I'd like to know where you plan to stay, or have stayed, in Kauai.
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
John D you do the heart good!!! 31 days and counting to Kauai and then Christmas in Maui! Life is good. Never considered humummuunhhu??????you have definately peaked my interest. And Spago---love that place! So glad you seemed to enjoy Lanai. It is a gift to have the opportunity to enjoy that isle in mhop. I'll report back on my return to Kauai, which although a few short years, feels like a lifetime. Maui however feels like yesterday. We are blessed to return one more time!!!! Can't wait to see what a palm tree christmas is like~~~!!!~~~~~~~~~
#12
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 73
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Mahalo JohnD, I loved you trip report, I thought I felt the sun, nice warm breeze and smelt the ocean as I was reading your report, it brought back some great thoughts of our trip a couple of months ago. I could not find any Hawaiian winery or wines while I was in Hawaii, I guess I should have planned a little better. We never made it around the island, next time...
I totaly agree with the fourwinds and fairwinds comments and getting out of LePerouse bay.
Sounds like it was a great trip, thank you for spending the time and writing such a great and detailed report. I am sure to reference it the next time I make it to Maui.
Aloha
I totaly agree with the fourwinds and fairwinds comments and getting out of LePerouse bay.
Sounds like it was a great trip, thank you for spending the time and writing such a great and detailed report. I am sure to reference it the next time I make it to Maui.
Aloha
#13
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 76
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John,
We will be in Maui over Thanksgiving and I was thinking about the Humuhumu for Thanksgiving dinner just for something unique but haven't heard many good reports on it. Did you think it was worth the price considering the atmosphere? And we'll have two teens with us do you think they would enjoy it?
We will be in Maui over Thanksgiving and I was thinking about the Humuhumu for Thanksgiving dinner just for something unique but haven't heard many good reports on it. Did you think it was worth the price considering the atmosphere? And we'll have two teens with us do you think they would enjoy it?
#14
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Joined: Feb 2003
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Hey Marthag,
We have stayed at two areas on Kauai (2 hotels and 2 condos), and our favorite so far are condo's in the Princeville Resort area-but the beach access is often tricky and limited. 1BR Condo's at the Hanalei Bay Resort (in Princeville Resort Area) are another option, which share beach access with the Princeville hotel, suggest you check for condo's via internet and in our experience with virtual tours you get what you see online.
Aloha gyppilou, we will look forward to your Kauai trip report, as we hope to head there in the spring, mahalo again for your insights into Lanai!
Hey Scott s, mahalo for your kind words-on our first trip to Maui we didn't have Maui Revealed and drove right on by a number of natural wonders, highly recommend it for your next visit!
Hey Cindyrella,
If you dine at humuhumu you are right next to the the pools at GW, and if your kids see the pool area (parts are open 24 x7, they are going to want in to those pools. Humuhumu prices were similar to Spago, Mama's, Sarentos, etc. and we spent $100 to $130 for two. Since the humuhumu is above the fishponds (where the fish were jumping and making noises) this should keep them occupied. Also there is a decent sized aquarium in the restaurant with many colorfull reef fishes that you see snorkeling on Maui. Suggest you call the Grand Wailea for pricing info. for Thanksgiving, and would take the earliest reservation 5:30, so you can be sure to see the sunset around 6PM.
Hope this helps!
We have stayed at two areas on Kauai (2 hotels and 2 condos), and our favorite so far are condo's in the Princeville Resort area-but the beach access is often tricky and limited. 1BR Condo's at the Hanalei Bay Resort (in Princeville Resort Area) are another option, which share beach access with the Princeville hotel, suggest you check for condo's via internet and in our experience with virtual tours you get what you see online.
Aloha gyppilou, we will look forward to your Kauai trip report, as we hope to head there in the spring, mahalo again for your insights into Lanai!
Hey Scott s, mahalo for your kind words-on our first trip to Maui we didn't have Maui Revealed and drove right on by a number of natural wonders, highly recommend it for your next visit!
Hey Cindyrella,
If you dine at humuhumu you are right next to the the pools at GW, and if your kids see the pool area (parts are open 24 x7, they are going to want in to those pools. Humuhumu prices were similar to Spago, Mama's, Sarentos, etc. and we spent $100 to $130 for two. Since the humuhumu is above the fishponds (where the fish were jumping and making noises) this should keep them occupied. Also there is a decent sized aquarium in the restaurant with many colorfull reef fishes that you see snorkeling on Maui. Suggest you call the Grand Wailea for pricing info. for Thanksgiving, and would take the earliest reservation 5:30, so you can be sure to see the sunset around 6PM.
Hope this helps!
#16
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,854
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Wow John, what a terrific vacation. You provided so much detail that I'm sure I was there!!!
So where's my tan???
I had skipped over your trip report thinking it was one I had already seen. So glad I peeked anyway! A year ago next week we were there. Wow time flies but the desire to return never wanes......
So where's my tan???I had skipped over your trip report thinking it was one I had already seen. So glad I peeked anyway! A year ago next week we were there. Wow time flies but the desire to return never wanes......
#17
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Joined: Feb 2003
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Hey Suzie,
Mahalo nui loa again for your great advice about Maui!
I'm afraid the only tan I can help you with is the one recommended by Guiness, here is the link for a
black & tan:
www.ivo.se/guinness/bnt.html
I may have to resort to some
in the PM after experiencing 35F on my windy AM commute, sure am missing Maui
.
I'm with Kal about sunscreen use tho, reminds me of an incident this past summer at Jones Beach where some NYU(?) students were handing out pamphlets on the beach about how tanning increases skin aging. Guess I'll just have to focus now on our next trip to the "rainy" north shore of Kauai.
Mahalo nui loa again for your great advice about Maui!
I'm afraid the only tan I can help you with is the one recommended by Guiness, here is the link for a
black & tan:
www.ivo.se/guinness/bnt.html
I may have to resort to some

in the PM after experiencing 35F on my windy AM commute, sure am missing Maui
.I'm with Kal about sunscreen use tho, reminds me of an incident this past summer at Jones Beach where some NYU(?) students were handing out pamphlets on the beach about how tanning increases skin aging. Guess I'll just have to focus now on our next trip to the "rainy" north shore of Kauai.


