Hana is NOT Heavenly. iamq and Marteen in Hell.
Apr 12th, 2009, 08:51 AM
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Hana is NOT Heavenly. iamq and Marteen in Hell.
Size does not matter! At five days, this was by far our shortest trip to Hawaii, but I will remember it as one on of our best visits yet, despite the number of days. And no, we are not crazy for spending all 5 of them in Hana.
SFO to OGG on United was okay. Last time the toilets did not work and we had to flush with bottled water. This time we were spared that pleasure. Because it was a holiday week there were lots of families on the plane, a surprising number of them with infants and toddlers who were apparently not enjoying the "Friendly Skies" very much as evidenced by their screaming. Why is that the trips over seem so pleasant and short (even with the screaming), but the flight home, which is actually IS shorter seems like it takes an eternity?
OGG to HNM on Pacific Wings was spectacular. Unlike most folks, we did not drive to Hana. We flew. This is the second time we've done this and liked it this time just as much as the first. The planes are nine seat turbo prop, nine seat Cessenas. If your idea of a small plane is a 737 or MD-80 this might not be the choice for you. I like it. Even though is was very windy in Kahalui, the flight was smooth and very enjoyable.They fly low and follow the coast so the views are amazing. I counted over 30 waterfalls plunging over the cliffs into the ocean and many more than that cascading down the sides of Haleakala! Seeing the green jungle creep down the slopes of Haleakala towards the ocean from above is a real treat. The flight takes about 15 minutes. The Hotel met us at the airport. The whole transfer was relaxing and effortless I did not miss the drive. I have done it many times and while it is a gorgeous dirve, for this trip I wanted to maximize the amount of time we spent relaxing in Hana. It is nice to have that choice. Marteen, on the other hand has never done the drive, so the next time we waste our time on Maui by spending multiple days in Hana we will take a long and leisurely drive over.
Last time we flew over , we rented a car in Hana so we could drive up to Pools of Oheo at the national aprk and Kipahulu. This time we chose not to rent a car. More about that later, but that decision turned out well, as the the coincerage/bellperson at the Hotel never hesitated giving us a lift if we wanted to go some place.
more later...
SFO to OGG on United was okay. Last time the toilets did not work and we had to flush with bottled water. This time we were spared that pleasure. Because it was a holiday week there were lots of families on the plane, a surprising number of them with infants and toddlers who were apparently not enjoying the "Friendly Skies" very much as evidenced by their screaming. Why is that the trips over seem so pleasant and short (even with the screaming), but the flight home, which is actually IS shorter seems like it takes an eternity?
OGG to HNM on Pacific Wings was spectacular. Unlike most folks, we did not drive to Hana. We flew. This is the second time we've done this and liked it this time just as much as the first. The planes are nine seat turbo prop, nine seat Cessenas. If your idea of a small plane is a 737 or MD-80 this might not be the choice for you. I like it. Even though is was very windy in Kahalui, the flight was smooth and very enjoyable.They fly low and follow the coast so the views are amazing. I counted over 30 waterfalls plunging over the cliffs into the ocean and many more than that cascading down the sides of Haleakala! Seeing the green jungle creep down the slopes of Haleakala towards the ocean from above is a real treat. The flight takes about 15 minutes. The Hotel met us at the airport. The whole transfer was relaxing and effortless I did not miss the drive. I have done it many times and while it is a gorgeous dirve, for this trip I wanted to maximize the amount of time we spent relaxing in Hana. It is nice to have that choice. Marteen, on the other hand has never done the drive, so the next time we waste our time on Maui by spending multiple days in Hana we will take a long and leisurely drive over.
Last time we flew over , we rented a car in Hana so we could drive up to Pools of Oheo at the national aprk and Kipahulu. This time we chose not to rent a car. More about that later, but that decision turned out well, as the the coincerage/bellperson at the Hotel never hesitated giving us a lift if we wanted to go some place.
more later...
Apr 12th, 2009, 09:07 AM
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. Why is that the trips over seem so pleasant and short (even with the screaming), but the flight home, which is actually IS shorter seems like it takes an eternity?
Laws regarding Matter and Physics etc
Laws regarding Matter and Physics etc
Apr 12th, 2009, 10:11 AM
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LOL Scarlett! Yep, the whole damnd hotel was sitting there waiting for us at the airport. 
We stayed at the Hotel Hana Maui, which will indeed send someone to pick you up at the airport. The hotel is a lovely and peaceful place. It is celebrating its sixty second year of existence this year. This is, coincendently the age of one of one of the travelers on this trip, who didn't much like it when it was exclaimed, "Sixty two years! That's a long time to be open for business!"
As you would imagine, when something (hotel or said person) has beeen around that long it grows and changes. HHM has been owned and managed by a variety of folks over the years. It was purchased by Passport Resorts in 2001 in one of its "down" cycles. These are the folks who own Post Ranch Inn in Big Sur and other very nice places. They lovingly and gently revived, restored, enlarged (no new rooms, but they added a small spa) and restored the hotel. It was no small achievement. Ownership has once again changed hands.
The hotel is an integral part of the community. In fact, modern day Hana seems to have grown up around and surrounds the hotel. I won't bore you with the history of the town or the hotel, but there's plenty out there to be googled if one wants to find out about the area, Kamehameha, the village, the missionaries, the sugar plantation, Paul Fagan, the ranch, the hotel and...Oprah. There are many generations of Hana residents that have worked or do work at the hotel and it remains a large employer in town. It town and hotel both are tradition laden places that feel very comfortable and welcoming. Unless one spends time here and experiences it, Hana and the Hotel can be just a blip on the forced march that so many take around the island.
latah...
We stayed at the Hotel Hana Maui, which will indeed send someone to pick you up at the airport. The hotel is a lovely and peaceful place. It is celebrating its sixty second year of existence this year. This is, coincendently the age of one of one of the travelers on this trip, who didn't much like it when it was exclaimed, "Sixty two years! That's a long time to be open for business!"
As you would imagine, when something (hotel or said person) has beeen around that long it grows and changes. HHM has been owned and managed by a variety of folks over the years. It was purchased by Passport Resorts in 2001 in one of its "down" cycles. These are the folks who own Post Ranch Inn in Big Sur and other very nice places. They lovingly and gently revived, restored, enlarged (no new rooms, but they added a small spa) and restored the hotel. It was no small achievement. Ownership has once again changed hands.
The hotel is an integral part of the community. In fact, modern day Hana seems to have grown up around and surrounds the hotel. I won't bore you with the history of the town or the hotel, but there's plenty out there to be googled if one wants to find out about the area, Kamehameha, the village, the missionaries, the sugar plantation, Paul Fagan, the ranch, the hotel and...Oprah. There are many generations of Hana residents that have worked or do work at the hotel and it remains a large employer in town. It town and hotel both are tradition laden places that feel very comfortable and welcoming. Unless one spends time here and experiences it, Hana and the Hotel can be just a blip on the forced march that so many take around the island.
latah...
Apr 12th, 2009, 11:06 AM
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The HHM is really a two part hotel sliced down the center and separated by a small road. One part is the original hotel that has the lobby, the restaurant, the bar, shops, the spa, a pool, tennis courts, a pitch and put golf course and the orginal garden cottages. The grounds and gardens are beautiful, simple and lovingly cared for. Much of this side has a view of Hana Bay. It is surrounded by a school, a baseball diamond, a community center, businesses and a really beautiful little church. You feel like you are in the center of town. Local life is happening all around.
The other side contains the newer Sea Ranch Cottages, Wellness Pool and gym. This side is oriented towards the open ocean and has a windier, wilder and more open feel. All the structures are built on rolling grass/pasture land that slopes gently down to the rugged, windswept coast and crashing surf. The rooms look like old plantation cottages (built in the 80s) and most of them have drop dead gorgeous views of the ocean and surrounding ranch land. There are often horses grazing in the fenced pasture nearby. One look and it is instant relaxation time.
We stayed in Sea Ranch Cottage 218, which is in a building that is the furthest down the slope and closest to the ocean. There is nothing in front of the room to obstruct your views of the ocean around 40 feet away. It was absolutely amazing. Those who prefer a more panoramic view would be happier a little high up the hill, but this was a more private. The room was huge and very comfortable. The bathroom was one of the largest I have ever seen and had its own large sliding glass door out to the deck where there was jacuzzi spa. This was truly Hell.
The rooms here are elegant in a rustic sort of a way. There are no radios, no plasma televisions on the walls, no ipod docking stations, no granite counter tops, no turndown service and no air conditioning. All of those exclusions did not bother us in the least, even the lack of a/c. I have never seen a structure so perfectly built to capture the trade winds, which are mostly always blowing. The flow-through cooling from the winds was perfect. We never even used the cieling fans. It was not vey hot while we were there, but my guess is that even during warm spells, the rooms would remain comfortable. Everything in the room was comfortable and very appropriate for the surroundings. Some folks balk at paying these prices and not getting the above mentioned items, but I am not one of them. We spent most of our time out on the deck savoring the views and sighing.
The other side contains the newer Sea Ranch Cottages, Wellness Pool and gym. This side is oriented towards the open ocean and has a windier, wilder and more open feel. All the structures are built on rolling grass/pasture land that slopes gently down to the rugged, windswept coast and crashing surf. The rooms look like old plantation cottages (built in the 80s) and most of them have drop dead gorgeous views of the ocean and surrounding ranch land. There are often horses grazing in the fenced pasture nearby. One look and it is instant relaxation time.
We stayed in Sea Ranch Cottage 218, which is in a building that is the furthest down the slope and closest to the ocean. There is nothing in front of the room to obstruct your views of the ocean around 40 feet away. It was absolutely amazing. Those who prefer a more panoramic view would be happier a little high up the hill, but this was a more private. The room was huge and very comfortable. The bathroom was one of the largest I have ever seen and had its own large sliding glass door out to the deck where there was jacuzzi spa. This was truly Hell.
The rooms here are elegant in a rustic sort of a way. There are no radios, no plasma televisions on the walls, no ipod docking stations, no granite counter tops, no turndown service and no air conditioning. All of those exclusions did not bother us in the least, even the lack of a/c. I have never seen a structure so perfectly built to capture the trade winds, which are mostly always blowing. The flow-through cooling from the winds was perfect. We never even used the cieling fans. It was not vey hot while we were there, but my guess is that even during warm spells, the rooms would remain comfortable. Everything in the room was comfortable and very appropriate for the surroundings. Some folks balk at paying these prices and not getting the above mentioned items, but I am not one of them. We spent most of our time out on the deck savoring the views and sighing.
Apr 12th, 2009, 11:18 AM
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Thanks iamq for sharing your experience with us. We'll be in Maui and Oahu in June. I'm not sure what activities we'll be doing. Do you recommend we buy activities ahead of time like on Orbitz or Travelocity? I'm not sure if there's any savings doing that. What do you think?
Apr 12th, 2009, 12:44 PM
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I just realized that instead of writing "Hana is NOT Heavenly...", I wrote "Hana in NOT..."
Oh well...
We came here for rest, relaxtion and moderate indulgence and weren't too concerned about fitting in a lot of activities, although if one wanted to, there is plenty to do out here. We spent a good portion of our time at the hotel relaxing on the deck, relaxing by the pool or relaxing at the spa. It did not take too long to achieve what I like to call "The Thorazine Shuffle". It is not until one really slows down that one really understands how fast one moves most of the time. We were there for 5 nights and could have easily spent a few more, but I am easily entertained by things like staring at puffy clouds moving across the sky, watching a massive gray storm cloud as it approaches land and dumps its load and trying to predict where that humpback whale is going to breach next...that sort of thing. I like boring places like Hana and Kaua'i. I am also not that interested in paying huge sums of money for organized tours that one can do on their own or skip all together. I met a lot of hotel guests who came to Hana for the day, decided to spend the night and then wished they had spent more time because, in their words, "This is the real Hawaii."
The spa here is really very nice. Nothing about it is over-the-top or ostentatious. It is a very quiet and peaceful place within a very quiet and peaceful place. There is a hot soaking pool overlooking Hana Bay, a steam room and cold plunge that guests can use anytime whether they have an appointment or not. There are little relaxation nooks and crannies sprinkled around the spa grounds as well as a lounge where tea, juices and fresh fruit can be enjoyed pre or post massage. Each day we went here for at least and hour or two and do the steam-cold plunge-soak; steam-cold plunge-soak circuit over and over until we were as limp and relaxed as overcooked pasta. One day we each had a hot stone massage. If you have only one massage in your life, this is the one you should have! OMG, being massaged with hot, smooth, well oiled stones is an experience one does not forget easily.
Least you think we were total slugs, we did two very nice hikes nearby. Fagan's Cross is a memorial to Paul Fagan and sits on a hill a few hundred feet above Hana. There is a track that goes up the the hill that does get the heart pumping a bit. Once up at the cross we were treated to a great panaromic view of the the town and the shorline east and west. This should be a must do for everyone even if for a short period of time. A short ways up the trail there is a spur that heads to the left that eventually takes you to Hamoa beach, about 2 miles away. We did this one day and loved it. The trail goes through the pastures where the ranch grazes its cattle. Watch out for cow patties...and horse pies! Yikes, they were everywhere. I had heard that mushrooms grow out of cow patties, but had never seen it until now. We did not pick them. The trail traverses the hillside until it ends right where the road to Hamoa Beach intersects the Hana Highway. We walked down the road towards Hamoa. We stopped for a few minutes to watch the surfers at Koki beach. This is a gorgeous beach with an amazing rock backdrop. We continued on following the road to lovely Hamoa Beach. The hotel has a pavillion there where guests can use the beach lounges. It rained on us while we were there, but that didn' stop Marteen from frolicking in the surf. This is an icredibly beautiful, but small beach that can have killer surf. Check with the beachboy to make sure it is safe to get in the water. The hotel operates a shuttle that goes back and forth to the beach every two hours. I would highly suggest this walk as a one way or a roundtrip.
Wainapnapa State Park next...
Oh well...
We came here for rest, relaxtion and moderate indulgence and weren't too concerned about fitting in a lot of activities, although if one wanted to, there is plenty to do out here. We spent a good portion of our time at the hotel relaxing on the deck, relaxing by the pool or relaxing at the spa. It did not take too long to achieve what I like to call "The Thorazine Shuffle". It is not until one really slows down that one really understands how fast one moves most of the time. We were there for 5 nights and could have easily spent a few more, but I am easily entertained by things like staring at puffy clouds moving across the sky, watching a massive gray storm cloud as it approaches land and dumps its load and trying to predict where that humpback whale is going to breach next...that sort of thing. I like boring places like Hana and Kaua'i. I am also not that interested in paying huge sums of money for organized tours that one can do on their own or skip all together. I met a lot of hotel guests who came to Hana for the day, decided to spend the night and then wished they had spent more time because, in their words, "This is the real Hawaii."
The spa here is really very nice. Nothing about it is over-the-top or ostentatious. It is a very quiet and peaceful place within a very quiet and peaceful place. There is a hot soaking pool overlooking Hana Bay, a steam room and cold plunge that guests can use anytime whether they have an appointment or not. There are little relaxation nooks and crannies sprinkled around the spa grounds as well as a lounge where tea, juices and fresh fruit can be enjoyed pre or post massage. Each day we went here for at least and hour or two and do the steam-cold plunge-soak; steam-cold plunge-soak circuit over and over until we were as limp and relaxed as overcooked pasta. One day we each had a hot stone massage. If you have only one massage in your life, this is the one you should have! OMG, being massaged with hot, smooth, well oiled stones is an experience one does not forget easily.
Least you think we were total slugs, we did two very nice hikes nearby. Fagan's Cross is a memorial to Paul Fagan and sits on a hill a few hundred feet above Hana. There is a track that goes up the the hill that does get the heart pumping a bit. Once up at the cross we were treated to a great panaromic view of the the town and the shorline east and west. This should be a must do for everyone even if for a short period of time. A short ways up the trail there is a spur that heads to the left that eventually takes you to Hamoa beach, about 2 miles away. We did this one day and loved it. The trail goes through the pastures where the ranch grazes its cattle. Watch out for cow patties...and horse pies! Yikes, they were everywhere. I had heard that mushrooms grow out of cow patties, but had never seen it until now. We did not pick them. The trail traverses the hillside until it ends right where the road to Hamoa Beach intersects the Hana Highway. We walked down the road towards Hamoa. We stopped for a few minutes to watch the surfers at Koki beach. This is a gorgeous beach with an amazing rock backdrop. We continued on following the road to lovely Hamoa Beach. The hotel has a pavillion there where guests can use the beach lounges. It rained on us while we were there, but that didn' stop Marteen from frolicking in the surf. This is an icredibly beautiful, but small beach that can have killer surf. Check with the beachboy to make sure it is safe to get in the water. The hotel operates a shuttle that goes back and forth to the beach every two hours. I would highly suggest this walk as a one way or a roundtrip.
Wainapnapa State Park next...
Apr 12th, 2009, 01:08 PM
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I have spent half the day mulching my yard and my back has more kinks in it than celentani! (corkscrew shaped pasta)... so I'd love to be in Hana for a few circuits of the steam, cold plunge soak circuit. Dream on..
Apr 12th, 2009, 01:15 PM
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"I am also not that interested in paying huge sums of money for organized tours that one can do on their own or skip all together."---I'm with you on this one Bill
I'm really enjoying your trip report
I'm really enjoying your trip report
Apr 12th, 2009, 02:25 PM
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Many years ago when I was visiting Hana solo I had walked a portion of the Kings Highway that is still intact and wanted to do that again this time with Marteen. At that time I had a rental car and drove to the park, walked about a mile and half, turned around and walked back. The trail starts in Waianapanapa State Park about 3 miles before Hana town and follows the lava fields along the coast to just before town. It is an amazing coastal walk over very stark and beautiful terrain. Since we didn't have a car, we were going to start in Hana and walk out there and walk back until I mentioned our plan to the server that morning at the restaurant during breakfast. "Aiyee!" she said. "You can't do that! Too long! No fun! I wouldn't do that, but that's juuuuuuuust me." I said that six miles isn't that bad, but she continued to try to talk us out of it. She said get the bellman to drive us up there and then walk back. Duh, I hadn't even thought of that. Just to make sure we followed her advice, she sent over the other servers and they all said that walking six miles on the black, jagged, sharp, loose lava was like walking 12 miles on dirt. Well, we took the advice of those with more experience that us. The bellman not only took us to the state park, but when we expressed interest in the area he showed us where he lived, where his kids lived, and he showed us where the trail enters a local road that we should take back into town. This last bit of information proved extremely helpful as we got a little lost towards the end. Had we not known to take that road we would have spent another hour or so picking our way along the lava rock along the point that forms Hana Bay and onwards towards town. Always follow the advice that friendly locals give!
Anyhow, after the tour, he dropped us off at Waianapanapa State Park, where we walked around for a while and took in the beauty of the Black Sand Beach there. I teach second grade and one part of our yearly science unit is on earth materials. Believe it or not, we do experiments with and study sand. A few years ago I started a sand collection from many of the places I have visited. We study the various samples and talk about where they come from and why they look and feel the way they do. When you're 8, sand is supposed to be white and fine, not red and coarse, or brown and pebbly. Anyhow, they love studying my sand collection, so I collected some of the black sand to add to may collection. I will show it to them tomorrow and they will go nuts, LOL!
The park is very beautiful. We picked up the trail and started walking along the black lava trail. Where it starts, there is plenty of vegetation, mostly naupaka, the beach plant that is looks like a succulent and is everywhere in Hawaii, but soon we are scrambling over lava stones and there is hardly anything growing. The stark blackness of the landscape is really striking. The really remarkable thing is that there are still some of the original flat lava stones that paved the Highway hundreds of years ago. I love the idea of walking on stones that have been there for a long time and were walked on by ancient Hawaiians. I felt that way when we were walking all over in Rome too.
Anyhow, after the tour, he dropped us off at Waianapanapa State Park, where we walked around for a while and took in the beauty of the Black Sand Beach there. I teach second grade and one part of our yearly science unit is on earth materials. Believe it or not, we do experiments with and study sand. A few years ago I started a sand collection from many of the places I have visited. We study the various samples and talk about where they come from and why they look and feel the way they do. When you're 8, sand is supposed to be white and fine, not red and coarse, or brown and pebbly. Anyhow, they love studying my sand collection, so I collected some of the black sand to add to may collection. I will show it to them tomorrow and they will go nuts, LOL!
The park is very beautiful. We picked up the trail and started walking along the black lava trail. Where it starts, there is plenty of vegetation, mostly naupaka, the beach plant that is looks like a succulent and is everywhere in Hawaii, but soon we are scrambling over lava stones and there is hardly anything growing. The stark blackness of the landscape is really striking. The really remarkable thing is that there are still some of the original flat lava stones that paved the Highway hundreds of years ago. I love the idea of walking on stones that have been there for a long time and were walked on by ancient Hawaiians. I felt that way when we were walking all over in Rome too.
Apr 12th, 2009, 02:45 PM
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Howzit my Hana Ohana?
Great. great, great report!
"I met a lot of hotel guests who came to Hana for the day, decided to spend the night and then wished they had spent more time because, in their words, "This is the real Hawaii."
Now why would they waste good money doing that when they already have housing down island they're payin' for? That's just crazy! That's as crazy as leaving the rental car at paid parking lot and taking the ferry to Lania and renting an expensive jeep for a couple of days!
Welcome home friend!
Great. great, great report!
"I met a lot of hotel guests who came to Hana for the day, decided to spend the night and then wished they had spent more time because, in their words, "This is the real Hawaii."
Now why would they waste good money doing that when they already have housing down island they're payin' for? That's just crazy! That's as crazy as leaving the rental car at paid parking lot and taking the ferry to Lania and renting an expensive jeep for a couple of days!
Welcome home friend!
Apr 12th, 2009, 03:04 PM
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Hey iamq, so far this sounds like one HELL of a trip!! 
We did the lava hike on the Big Island. While we enjoyed the hike it was quite difficult to walk on uneven, jagged lava. I agree that 6 miles would have seemed like a much longer trek. And if you stumble you will get a serious cut because falling on lava is like falling on glass. (believe me, I know)
I didn't know you are a teacher, I love the idea for a sand collection. Your kids must think you are one cool teacher.
Now surely this isn't all, so let's get on with the show!!
We did the lava hike on the Big Island. While we enjoyed the hike it was quite difficult to walk on uneven, jagged lava. I agree that 6 miles would have seemed like a much longer trek. And if you stumble you will get a serious cut because falling on lava is like falling on glass. (believe me, I know)
I didn't know you are a teacher, I love the idea for a sand collection. Your kids must think you are one cool teacher.
Now surely this isn't all, so let's get on with the show!!
Apr 12th, 2009, 03:25 PM
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Thanks for the aloha, my fodors friends.
When one travels, things happen. Sometimes, REALLY amazing things happen. Those really amazing things that happen are the big payoff for travlers like me. They don't have to be BIG things, the can be little things, but they are REALLY amazing nonetheless. This short, little trip was filled with pretty amazing things happening.
We continued to walk along the trail really taking notice of the the lava formations on land as well as on small islands just offshore or outcroppings jutting into the surf. They looked like the most fantastic modern art scultures! I don't recall seeing anything like them before, even though I had walked this path 15 years ago, it was like I was seeing this stuff for the first time.
So engrossed with the landscape were we that we hadn't really been paying attention the ocean...that is until Martin, who had been looking towards the waves, went, "OH MY GOD! LOOK!" I looked and saw the remnants of huge white splash about 100 yards offshore. A Humpback Whale! Must've been! So we stopped and both stared a the spot...looking...waiting...when all of sudden...Whammo! Up comes the whale, up in the air in a full on breach, twisting, turning and then SPLASH! We stood there dumb founded and started clapping and screaming. I have never seen a breach from shore like this. It was so close. I didn't know they came that close. So...we stood there again...waiting...hoping for another sighting...when...BAMMO! Another breach! This one just to the right of the other one and just as spectacular! This was a true natural wonder. Both of us we gaping and smiling a big wide smile at the same time. I didn't know that was possible. We were just calming down when...ANOTHER ONE! Another flying, leaping breach and another spectacular splash that seemed to unfold in slow motion. More clapping and now, joyful laughing. Amazing. Then another! And another! And another! And another! Utter disbelief overcome me and I started crying. Jaysus I'm getting weepy as I write this. This was a REALLY, REALLY amazing thing happening. This whale just kept breaching and as it did it kept moving in the same direction as we were walking. When it was done, we had counted 10 full breaches and 3 "half breaches". I know they do this all the time, but it felt really very special to be able to witness it. I felt like I needed a cigarette when we knew it was done and was once again diving. We were both so damn happy! We excitedly talked about it as we walked and knew that folks we told this too would either think we were lying or exaggerating at the very the least. It is something that I keep seeing in my mind' eye over and over again. Amazing.
When one travels, things happen. Sometimes, REALLY amazing things happen. Those really amazing things that happen are the big payoff for travlers like me. They don't have to be BIG things, the can be little things, but they are REALLY amazing nonetheless. This short, little trip was filled with pretty amazing things happening.
We continued to walk along the trail really taking notice of the the lava formations on land as well as on small islands just offshore or outcroppings jutting into the surf. They looked like the most fantastic modern art scultures! I don't recall seeing anything like them before, even though I had walked this path 15 years ago, it was like I was seeing this stuff for the first time.
So engrossed with the landscape were we that we hadn't really been paying attention the ocean...that is until Martin, who had been looking towards the waves, went, "OH MY GOD! LOOK!" I looked and saw the remnants of huge white splash about 100 yards offshore. A Humpback Whale! Must've been! So we stopped and both stared a the spot...looking...waiting...when all of sudden...Whammo! Up comes the whale, up in the air in a full on breach, twisting, turning and then SPLASH! We stood there dumb founded and started clapping and screaming. I have never seen a breach from shore like this. It was so close. I didn't know they came that close. So...we stood there again...waiting...hoping for another sighting...when...BAMMO! Another breach! This one just to the right of the other one and just as spectacular! This was a true natural wonder. Both of us we gaping and smiling a big wide smile at the same time. I didn't know that was possible. We were just calming down when...ANOTHER ONE! Another flying, leaping breach and another spectacular splash that seemed to unfold in slow motion. More clapping and now, joyful laughing. Amazing. Then another! And another! And another! And another! Utter disbelief overcome me and I started crying. Jaysus I'm getting weepy as I write this. This was a REALLY, REALLY amazing thing happening. This whale just kept breaching and as it did it kept moving in the same direction as we were walking. When it was done, we had counted 10 full breaches and 3 "half breaches". I know they do this all the time, but it felt really very special to be able to witness it. I felt like I needed a cigarette when we knew it was done and was once again diving. We were both so damn happy! We excitedly talked about it as we walked and knew that folks we told this too would either think we were lying or exaggerating at the very the least. It is something that I keep seeing in my mind' eye over and over again. Amazing.
Apr 12th, 2009, 03:28 PM
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Yes PM, walking on lava can be very dangerous and slow going. It took us 3 hours to walk that 3 miles! We tried to be sure footed and careful and luckily we didn't fall. More to come after Easter supper!
