Grand Canyon Hiking Trip Report---it's all about the shoes (and the permit)
May 1st, 2007, 05:44 AM
#41
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Thanks for writing more
Sounds like such a great trip! Shows that even experienced hikers make goofs, but so glad that all turned out well with DD. I need to have DH read this as it is something I want to do. Thanks!
Sounds like such a great trip! Shows that even experienced hikers make goofs, but so glad that all turned out well with DD. I need to have DH read this as it is something I want to do. Thanks!
May 1st, 2007, 08:23 AM
#42
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And thanks to you all for the appreciation. If I've inspired or encouraged just one person who is interested in doing this to go for it---it was worth all the time I spent writing.
To answer marigross' questions---
We chose to camp because it seems easier to get permits for that than reservations at Phantom. Also, couples who hike down cannot stay together there---men stay in the men's dorm, and women in the women's. Cabins are saved for mule riders. They may be released close to the actual date for hikers, but you can't count on that. But the main factor for us is just that we like to camp out; we have all the backpacking gear, and prefer sleeping in a tent along Bright Angel Creek to sharing a dorm with strangers. We peeked inside one while exploring the area, and it seemed kind of dim and not all that comfortable. We were very comfortable in our little campsite by the creek. And by buying dinners at Phantom, we got the best of both experiences.
As for Michael's impressions afterwards---he never got to the point where he was glad he did this. It was, quite honestly, an ordeal for him every step of the way. Fortunately, his good humor allowed him to joke about it afterwards, and we're still good friends. But if I had known how extreme was his fear of heights, I would never have encouraged him to undertake this.
I thought it would be OK for him because I, too, have a fear of heights. There is one easy trail in Switzerland that scares the heck out of me. There I am, clinging to the uphill side, one hand on the rock, while little kids happily gambol on by, their parents not the least bit concerned. And I didn't make it to the top of the Zugspitze in Germany because there is one very exposed step just before the summit. I couldn't do it, even with a cable to hang on to.
So I understand a bit about the fear and how irrational it can be. But these two trails in the Grand Canyon don't bother me at all---they feel very safe with their wide, well-graded tread. I don't see any way one could fall from the trail. But----if your fear is at the level where you swoon or feel sick at the sight of all that elevation drop at the edge, it would still be hard. I think Michael's fear was at that level, so he had to deal with it by just looking at the ground and the feet directly in front of him. So, unfortunately, he never got the point of actually enjoying the hike, at least not until we arrived at flat ground.
To answer marigross' questions---
We chose to camp because it seems easier to get permits for that than reservations at Phantom. Also, couples who hike down cannot stay together there---men stay in the men's dorm, and women in the women's. Cabins are saved for mule riders. They may be released close to the actual date for hikers, but you can't count on that. But the main factor for us is just that we like to camp out; we have all the backpacking gear, and prefer sleeping in a tent along Bright Angel Creek to sharing a dorm with strangers. We peeked inside one while exploring the area, and it seemed kind of dim and not all that comfortable. We were very comfortable in our little campsite by the creek. And by buying dinners at Phantom, we got the best of both experiences.
As for Michael's impressions afterwards---he never got to the point where he was glad he did this. It was, quite honestly, an ordeal for him every step of the way. Fortunately, his good humor allowed him to joke about it afterwards, and we're still good friends. But if I had known how extreme was his fear of heights, I would never have encouraged him to undertake this.
I thought it would be OK for him because I, too, have a fear of heights. There is one easy trail in Switzerland that scares the heck out of me. There I am, clinging to the uphill side, one hand on the rock, while little kids happily gambol on by, their parents not the least bit concerned. And I didn't make it to the top of the Zugspitze in Germany because there is one very exposed step just before the summit. I couldn't do it, even with a cable to hang on to.
So I understand a bit about the fear and how irrational it can be. But these two trails in the Grand Canyon don't bother me at all---they feel very safe with their wide, well-graded tread. I don't see any way one could fall from the trail. But----if your fear is at the level where you swoon or feel sick at the sight of all that elevation drop at the edge, it would still be hard. I think Michael's fear was at that level, so he had to deal with it by just looking at the ground and the feet directly in front of him. So, unfortunately, he never got the point of actually enjoying the hike, at least not until we arrived at flat ground.
May 1st, 2007, 10:00 AM
#43
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I'd love to make that hike spring break 2009 (DS's last high school spring break.) I am SO out of shape. Everyone else in the family is in great condition because of regular exercise....I, on the other hand, sit in an office all day. I would really need to start conditioning NOW.
Did I miss the part where you said where the bathrooms were? I assume none on the way down. Isn't there at least one on the way up (Bright Angel)?
I'd love to hear what you did on your day at the bottom....I'm thinking about that, too.
Did I miss the part where you said where the bathrooms were? I assume none on the way down. Isn't there at least one on the way up (Bright Angel)?
I'd love to hear what you did on your day at the bottom....I'm thinking about that, too.
May 1st, 2007, 10:18 AM
#44
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Hi missypie---there is plenty of time for you to get in shape for this hike. Do some hiking, stairclimber at the gym, eliptical trainer, ride a bike, etc. Your body will thank you for it! I have a sedentary job too, but DH and I are committed to exercise 5X a week, and we try to get out for a hike a couple of times a month even in winter.
As for bathrooms---there are fairly clean and relatively odor-free restrooms with composting toilets on both trails---two places on the South Kaibab Trail, and at Indian Gardens and Three-Mile Resthouse on the Bright Angel Trail (Maybe at 1.5 Mile Resthouse too, but we didn't investigate). At Bright Angel Campground, there are actual restrooms with running water (cold only) and flush toilets. The women's side was very clean. DH said the men's side had plumbing problems.
On our full day at the bottom of the canyon, we wandered up the North Kaibab trail a bit, maybe 3 miles or so. The trail stays along the creek and gains very little elevation until later. Many people like to go as far as Ribbon Falls, about 6 miles each way, but we preferred a shorter hike so there was time for a dip in the river (and the ladies used the solar shower we brought along, sans soap).
Another option is to wade across Bright Angel Creek and explore Phantom, a slot canyon. This year the creek seemed low enough that would have been possible, but we didn't bring our wading sandals on the dayhike.
Last time we took a hike up a side trail, Clear Creek Trail, that branches off behind Phantom Ranch and climbs up to the Tonto plateau, about 1200 feet above the Colorado River. There are great views from there, and we saw blooming cacti and a bealtiful little collared lizard.
A fourth option is to hike the River Trail, a loop along the Colorado between the two bridges that span it. This is especially nice if you happen to be there when boaters come along. Although there are no rapids along this stretch;, it's fun to see them. They all look like they are having a great time.
As for bathrooms---there are fairly clean and relatively odor-free restrooms with composting toilets on both trails---two places on the South Kaibab Trail, and at Indian Gardens and Three-Mile Resthouse on the Bright Angel Trail (Maybe at 1.5 Mile Resthouse too, but we didn't investigate). At Bright Angel Campground, there are actual restrooms with running water (cold only) and flush toilets. The women's side was very clean. DH said the men's side had plumbing problems.
On our full day at the bottom of the canyon, we wandered up the North Kaibab trail a bit, maybe 3 miles or so. The trail stays along the creek and gains very little elevation until later. Many people like to go as far as Ribbon Falls, about 6 miles each way, but we preferred a shorter hike so there was time for a dip in the river (and the ladies used the solar shower we brought along, sans soap).
Another option is to wade across Bright Angel Creek and explore Phantom, a slot canyon. This year the creek seemed low enough that would have been possible, but we didn't bring our wading sandals on the dayhike.
Last time we took a hike up a side trail, Clear Creek Trail, that branches off behind Phantom Ranch and climbs up to the Tonto plateau, about 1200 feet above the Colorado River. There are great views from there, and we saw blooming cacti and a bealtiful little collared lizard.
A fourth option is to hike the River Trail, a loop along the Colorado between the two bridges that span it. This is especially nice if you happen to be there when boaters come along. Although there are no rapids along this stretch;, it's fun to see them. They all look like they are having a great time.
May 1st, 2007, 11:45 AM
#46
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enzian
Excellent report !!
It almost makes we want to get down off that mule and walk myself !
We are heading back there again in December to do our 3rd mule trip.
Do you know if the overnight mule riders are back to using the South Kaibab Trail? On our Dec 2006 trip we had to use the Bright Angel trail on the way back up because they were doing trail maintenance on the South Kaibab.
We do have an extra day at GC after our mule ride - plan to walk part of the way down the South Kaibab.
Thanks again for you great report.
Gilbert (mule-aholic)
Excellent report !!
It almost makes we want to get down off that mule and walk myself !
We are heading back there again in December to do our 3rd mule trip.
Do you know if the overnight mule riders are back to using the South Kaibab Trail? On our Dec 2006 trip we had to use the Bright Angel trail on the way back up because they were doing trail maintenance on the South Kaibab.
We do have an extra day at GC after our mule ride - plan to walk part of the way down the South Kaibab.
Thanks again for you great report.
Gilbert (mule-aholic)
May 1st, 2007, 12:12 PM
#47
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Hi Gilbert---the SK trail repairs seem to be complete (the trail was in gret shape). We saw "mule sign" but no actual mules on that trail, other than the saddle mules we saw mysteriously hitched to the post at Skeleton Point, with no one in sight.
May 1st, 2007, 12:39 PM
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This is a little off topic, but enzian commented that boaters "looked like they were having a great time". From having done the full canyon by raft twice, I can tell you it's incredible. Since posters here all sound like they appreciate the Grand Canyon, strongly recommend this trip as a MUST DO.
May 1st, 2007, 12:55 PM
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Not off-topic at all! I think a raft trip would be incredible, in part because it would provide oppostunities for some hikes that can only be accessed from the river. It's also a way for people who don't wish to tackle the hike, for whatever reason, so see the wonders of the inner canyon.
I understand the participants eat pretty well on those raft trips, too!
I understand the participants eat pretty well on those raft trips, too!
May 2nd, 2007, 03:28 AM
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Thanks enzian!
I am REALLY considering this. It would be a great 40th b-day gift for myself (since Kilimanjaro might be out of budget and vacation days in 2008
)
The two things that really bother me with heights are wind gusts and people passing on the side of trail. I think both would be an issue here
. OTOH, I have actively worked on overcoming my fear and have made tremendous progress so it should work pretty much ok!
I am REALLY considering this. It would be a great 40th b-day gift for myself (since Kilimanjaro might be out of budget and vacation days in 2008
)The two things that really bother me with heights are wind gusts and people passing on the side of trail. I think both would be an issue here
. OTOH, I have actively worked on overcoming my fear and have made tremendous progress so it should work pretty much ok!
May 2nd, 2007, 05:57 AM
#52
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enzian, thanks so much for sharing your story - it was certainly a page-turner! You have made this 50 year old chic feel that anything is *still* possible. I am totally impressed.
I've only been to GC once, about 6 years ago and stayed at El Tovar and found the accommodations to be rather charming. But so far I've only seen the canyon from every vantage point along the rim.
Glad you had such a great time - I'm envious!
I've only been to GC once, about 6 years ago and stayed at El Tovar and found the accommodations to be rather charming. But so far I've only seen the canyon from every vantage point along the rim.
Glad you had such a great time - I'm envious!
May 3rd, 2007, 05:14 PM
#53
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Hi enzian
I knew the ending would be terrific, so I waited until I had lots of time by myself to finish it off. And I must say I was on the edge of my seat while reading it. Glad your DD returned safely. Doesn't it seem like minutes turn into days when this happens? Good way to celebrate, with ice cream!
And for you folks considering this hike, please know that this gal is a heck of a hiker. Quoting from above, "There is one easy trail in Switzerland that scares the heck out of me. There I am, clinging to the uphill side, one hand on the rock..."
I would never consider a trail easy if I was clinging to a rock, lol!
Great job, enzian. I enjoyed every word!
I knew the ending would be terrific, so I waited until I had lots of time by myself to finish it off. And I must say I was on the edge of my seat while reading it. Glad your DD returned safely. Doesn't it seem like minutes turn into days when this happens? Good way to celebrate, with ice cream!
And for you folks considering this hike, please know that this gal is a heck of a hiker. Quoting from above, "There is one easy trail in Switzerland that scares the heck out of me. There I am, clinging to the uphill side, one hand on the rock..."
I would never consider a trail easy if I was clinging to a rock, lol!
Great job, enzian. I enjoyed every word!
May 3rd, 2007, 05:27 PM
#54
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kopp, you're making me blush!!
marigross, it would indeed be a great 40th B-day celebration. I think the wind we faced is very unusual, so I wouldn't worry about that. And facing down your fear of heights is a worthy goal.
And swaymock---anything is indeed possible (as long as the knees and other joints hold up), and at 50 you are still just a young chick! Remember, 50 is the new 30.
marigross, it would indeed be a great 40th B-day celebration. I think the wind we faced is very unusual, so I wouldn't worry about that. And facing down your fear of heights is a worthy goal.
And swaymock---anything is indeed possible (as long as the knees and other joints hold up), and at 50 you are still just a young chick! Remember, 50 is the new 30.
May 12th, 2007, 09:16 AM
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enzian,
Just got back from a 2-week roadtrip and found your trip report. Loved reading it. Extremely informative and fun to read!! I would have been a basketcase during the whole mix-up with meeting your daughter at the end of the trail.
We have reservations at El Tovar for a number of days at the end of April 2008 and early May. Will cancel out of the ones we don't need when we find out what night we get at Bright Angel Campground--(we're hoping that if we have lots of options, we will get the one night more easily!).
Hope you got your group reservations for next year at Phantom Ranch. I called continuously on May 1, and didn't get through for 2 1/2 hours--not even one night at Phantom Ranch available for the whole first two weeks of May. (We didn't really want the reservations--we'd rather camp--but I did hope to get them as insurance, in case we don't get anything at the campground. Oh well.).
Anyway, your trip report has me even more excited to do this! Thanks!
Just got back from a 2-week roadtrip and found your trip report. Loved reading it. Extremely informative and fun to read!! I would have been a basketcase during the whole mix-up with meeting your daughter at the end of the trail.
We have reservations at El Tovar for a number of days at the end of April 2008 and early May. Will cancel out of the ones we don't need when we find out what night we get at Bright Angel Campground--(we're hoping that if we have lots of options, we will get the one night more easily!).
Hope you got your group reservations for next year at Phantom Ranch. I called continuously on May 1, and didn't get through for 2 1/2 hours--not even one night at Phantom Ranch available for the whole first two weeks of May. (We didn't really want the reservations--we'd rather camp--but I did hope to get them as insurance, in case we don't get anything at the campground. Oh well.).
Anyway, your trip report has me even more excited to do this! Thanks!
May 12th, 2007, 11:37 AM
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Enzian,
Fabulous report. Thank you for all the good information and details. We've been to the GC when the kids were young. We're planning to take them back and do this hike perhaps spring break 2009. I didn't know about the duffel service, we will definately look into that. I'm short too, so I hiking sticks are a must for me. You're report is well written, informative, and helpful.
Fabulous report. Thank you for all the good information and details. We've been to the GC when the kids were young. We're planning to take them back and do this hike perhaps spring break 2009. I didn't know about the duffel service, we will definately look into that. I'm short too, so I hiking sticks are a must for me. You're report is well written, informative, and helpful.
Apr 14th, 2017, 04:09 AM
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Hi enzian,
I realize this report is 10 years old, but it's the most interesting and informative write up I've found. Thank you for sharing your insights and adventures! You have no idea how helpful you are! My teenage daughter and I just booked a last minute trip to Sedona. We are planning to have a one day hike in GC and have opted for SK to Skeleton Point and back. We'll be doing this the Saturday before Memorial Day. My main question is, are running shoes sufficient for this trail? From reading your report it seems your daughter had no trouble in them. I feel like it's a little late for us to break in hiking shoes. Also, if you have any tips on how we should dress, I'd greatly appreciate it. We've been hiking in various national parks, but I think this will be the most difficult ascent I've encountered. I've started climbing hills hoping to get in better shape!
I realize this report is 10 years old, but it's the most interesting and informative write up I've found. Thank you for sharing your insights and adventures! You have no idea how helpful you are! My teenage daughter and I just booked a last minute trip to Sedona. We are planning to have a one day hike in GC and have opted for SK to Skeleton Point and back. We'll be doing this the Saturday before Memorial Day. My main question is, are running shoes sufficient for this trail? From reading your report it seems your daughter had no trouble in them. I feel like it's a little late for us to break in hiking shoes. Also, if you have any tips on how we should dress, I'd greatly appreciate it. We've been hiking in various national parks, but I think this will be the most difficult ascent I've encountered. I've started climbing hills hoping to get in better shape!
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Jul 26th, 2009 06:44 PM
