Grand Canyon Hiking Trip Report---it's all about the shoes (and the permit)
Apr 27th, 2007, 04:47 PM
#23
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Enzian
I am enjoying your report. When we were planning this hike last year, we found it difficult to find trip reports from past hikers. We got a lot of information from www.hitthetrail.com and most of it from phone calls to Phantom Ranch. All your details will really help future hikers.
We were able to take the hikers shuttle directly to the South Kaibab Trailhead at 9:00 a.m. That worked out great for us. Can't imagine why they wouldn't be running that bus at such a popular time. We met at Bright Angel and had breakfast at 7:30 and then hopped on the bus. It's only about a half hour trip when they drive directly to the trailhead.
The duffle service is great. I mentioned it to the hikers but everyone decided to carry their camping gear--I bet if they did it again, they would use the mules to carry the heavy stuff. Their packs were at least 35 pounds with all the camping gear, water and food.
We also were pleased with the El Tovar. One interesting thing did happen though. One couple checked out of their room before hiking down to Phantom. The El Tovar will store your bags and then put them in your room when you return. That way you are not charged for the night you are at Phantom. When they returned, their room was on the top floor. Of course, this is the couple that struggled a bit to finish the hike and walking up those stairs was not what they wanted to do.
I am enjoying your report. When we were planning this hike last year, we found it difficult to find trip reports from past hikers. We got a lot of information from www.hitthetrail.com and most of it from phone calls to Phantom Ranch. All your details will really help future hikers.
We were able to take the hikers shuttle directly to the South Kaibab Trailhead at 9:00 a.m. That worked out great for us. Can't imagine why they wouldn't be running that bus at such a popular time. We met at Bright Angel and had breakfast at 7:30 and then hopped on the bus. It's only about a half hour trip when they drive directly to the trailhead.
The duffle service is great. I mentioned it to the hikers but everyone decided to carry their camping gear--I bet if they did it again, they would use the mules to carry the heavy stuff. Their packs were at least 35 pounds with all the camping gear, water and food.
We also were pleased with the El Tovar. One interesting thing did happen though. One couple checked out of their room before hiking down to Phantom. The El Tovar will store your bags and then put them in your room when you return. That way you are not charged for the night you are at Phantom. When they returned, their room was on the top floor. Of course, this is the couple that struggled a bit to finish the hike and walking up those stairs was not what they wanted to do.
Apr 27th, 2007, 06:09 PM
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I am so impressed with your hiking abilities! I know I'd fit into the "Michael" category.
Last time I was at the GC, we were so turned off by all the ruts in the trail as you mentioned. Glad to see they've been redone.
Is this the same trail as the mules go down? When we were there, the smell from the mules was so overwhelming that it was hard to breathe.
Waiting (im)patiently for more....
Last time I was at the GC, we were so turned off by all the ruts in the trail as you mentioned. Glad to see they've been redone.
Is this the same trail as the mules go down? When we were there, the smell from the mules was so overwhelming that it was hard to breathe.
Waiting (im)patiently for more....
Apr 27th, 2007, 08:16 PM
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LindainOhio---you were there a bit before we were (I read your report before we left). I think they adjust the hiker's shuttle to the seasons----it gets earlier as summer approaches and an early departure is more crucial. The very latest one when we were there left at 8:00. I think in the summer, the last one may leave as early as 7:00.
We didn't know that El Tovar would hold our luggage (didn't ask). But it wasn't too hard to take it to the car. We had rooms on the lower floor (2nd) when we returned, and ours even had a canyon view!
MelissaBeckoff---yes, I know the hiking trip isn't for everyone. I feel bad that you want to do something like this and cannot. But there are two other ways to get to the bottom of the canyon--mules and a river trip. I think the people who do the river trip must have an incredible experience. And that is something I could never do. I happily climb mountains and dance on narrow trails, but white water scares me to death!
kopp---the mules go down both trails, but I think most of them use the Bright Angel trail. And yes, it can get quite wet and aromatic at times. But hey, I used to have horses, so I'm used to that. This is one of the major reasona for NOT hiking in sandals!
I'll try to get us up out of the canyon tomorrow. Sorry to keep y'all waiting!
And yes, it really did snow---lots of it! But we made it up before it covered the trail.
We didn't know that El Tovar would hold our luggage (didn't ask). But it wasn't too hard to take it to the car. We had rooms on the lower floor (2nd) when we returned, and ours even had a canyon view!
MelissaBeckoff---yes, I know the hiking trip isn't for everyone. I feel bad that you want to do something like this and cannot. But there are two other ways to get to the bottom of the canyon--mules and a river trip. I think the people who do the river trip must have an incredible experience. And that is something I could never do. I happily climb mountains and dance on narrow trails, but white water scares me to death!
kopp---the mules go down both trails, but I think most of them use the Bright Angel trail. And yes, it can get quite wet and aromatic at times. But hey, I used to have horses, so I'm used to that. This is one of the major reasona for NOT hiking in sandals!
I'll try to get us up out of the canyon tomorrow. Sorry to keep y'all waiting!
And yes, it really did snow---lots of it! But we made it up before it covered the trail.
Apr 28th, 2007, 06:48 AM
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Enzian,
I am really enjoying your report! I've backpacked down the Havasupai canyon, but never the main canyon. I'm one of those going for the rafting trip! 2008 - one of the things on my "do it before I get too old list!"
Can't wait to hear the rest.
I am really enjoying your report! I've backpacked down the Havasupai canyon, but never the main canyon. I'm one of those going for the rafting trip! 2008 - one of the things on my "do it before I get too old list!"
Can't wait to hear the rest.
Apr 29th, 2007, 06:44 PM
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Ah, mms--since you were here you know it was way too nice a weekend to spend inside. I had the best of intentions, but DS was in town from Portland. Yesterday we worked in the garden, today we rode 17 miles on the Snoqualmie Valley trail (on bikes).
Tomorrow I'll finish the report. It's a bit anticlamatic because by now everyone knows that (a) it did snow but (b) we beat it to the rim.
Tomorrow I'll finish the report. It's a bit anticlamatic because by now everyone knows that (a) it did snow but (b) we beat it to the rim.
It was absolutely gorgeous up there! But with the rain due to return, that might be a good excuse to stay inside and keep writing.
Apr 30th, 2007, 02:34 PM
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Great report Enzian. Anxiously awaiting your description of the hike out via Bright Angel to compare it with our "across the Sahara" trek up the same trail after rafting in to the canyon last summer. Did everyone use hiking poles and were they glad they did?
Apr 30th, 2007, 03:01 PM
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It's almost finished! Will post a bit later.
MRand---yes, I used two hiking poles, and I am VERY glad I did (but I always hike with at least one). They make it a whole lot easier for me to get up and down the huge steps without stressing my knees. DH carried his poles but did not use them, so one was available to Michael to use.
Why was your hike out a "trek acrosss the Sahaha"? Not enough water? Or was it the heat? At least we didn't have to contend with that. It was around 70 when we started out, and it graduyally got cooler until. . . the snowflakes started falling.
MRand---yes, I used two hiking poles, and I am VERY glad I did (but I always hike with at least one). They make it a whole lot easier for me to get up and down the huge steps without stressing my knees. DH carried his poles but did not use them, so one was available to Michael to use.
Why was your hike out a "trek acrosss the Sahaha"? Not enough water? Or was it the heat? At least we didn't have to contend with that. It was around 70 when we started out, and it graduyally got cooler until. . . the snowflakes started falling.
Apr 30th, 2007, 03:57 PM
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Day 4—Hiking up the Bright Angel Trail
I’m skipping the day we spent exploring the bottom of the canyon; this report is “all about the journey”. Wednesday afternoon, the same ranger came around to check permits again, around 5 pm. The first thing she said was: “The good news is, the snow is supposed to hold off until 4 pm.” Yaaaay----this meant we should be done hiking up, and wouldn’t have to face snow on the trail. But not knowing what kind of hikers we were, she warned—“just try to get past the Devil’s Corkscrew before then, and remember—one hand on the wall!” She noticed the odd look on Michael’s face, and told him not to worry. Then: “See that guy over there?” (Pointing to a man in uniform who was talking to the people in the next campsite after checking their permit) “He came down the Bright Angel trail 17 years ago and can’t face going up. He’s still here so we made him a volunteer!” I think it’s a standard joke for people who seem anxious about the hike up.
After she left we brought out the last of our wine, poured Michael a glass, and settled in with the Scrabble until it was time for dinner.
Thursday morning dawned bright and clear, with not a cloud in the sky. We rose early because we had to have our gear packed and the duffles carried over the Phantom Ranch before 7:00 am. There was a scale there and tags to mark them; it was all on the honor system (no ornery wrangler to contend with). Since we had consumed the food we brought down I the duffle, we replaced that weight with our trash. It wasn’t much (even including the 4 1/4-liter wine boxes), and DH compressed it all into the multi-purpose Tupperware container that I brought down filled with tortilla chips, then used for my cereal bowl at breakfast. Both duffles were still under 30 pounds We stopped at the Phantom “Starbucks” equivalent, a kitchen window where one can buy coffee and hot chocolate in the morning, since we had already packed the stoves and cookware. Then back to camp for breakfast and to finish packing up. We were on the trail by 8:00. In the summer, this would be a late start, but in cooler weather it was fine.
The mules and riders had departed about 30 minutes earlier, using the trail on the other side of the creek. But they have to go back and over the Black Bridge, while we went forward and over a different bridge, it didn’t take us long to catch up to them along the river trail. They had stopped to adjust everyone’s gear and stirrups. Since it is not allowed (nor safe) to pass a mule train, we had to stop and wait for them to get underway again. DD used this as an opportunity to take some photos of the Colorado River and the inner canyon. We did not have the treat of seeing any rafters go by; I suppose it was too early in the morning.
Eventually the mules got underway again, and so did we. The trail works its way along above the river until it comes to a creek, which you more or less follow up to Indian Gardens, which is about half-way in terms of miles (but not elevation gain). The creek is lovely and it is a pleasure to walk alongside it. The trail crosses it several times, but there are rocks you can step on to get across. At each crossing, we encountered people resting from the climb. We stopped only once along this stretch, for Michael to investigate the source of a water leak. It turns out his Camelback was leaking at the point where the tube joined the main bag. The water soaked his pack, then ran down has back and . . . If you follow the natural gravity course of that water you can imaging how annoying it must have been. After fiddling with the thing and deciding there was no hope for fixing it he dumped the water. But first we made sure that among us we had plenty to get to Indian Gardens.
The Devil’s Corkscrew, by which one gains the last part of elevation up to Indian Gardens, was not as fearsome as the name would suggest. We did have to form up the “Michael sandwich” and keep moving, passing just about everyone who had left the campground ahead of us. At the top of the switchbacks, the grade of the trail flattens, and we joined the creek again. We arrived at Indian Gardens 2 hours after leaving camp, still with lots of energy and spring in our steps.
Indian Gardens is well-named—a lovely oasis along the creek, with wild grape, canyon redbud (unfortunately past the bloom time) and cottonwood trees. There is a rest area under the trees, with a hitching post for mules, benches, a water fountain, and, a bit away from these, a set of composting toilets, dubbed by DH as the cleanest on the whole trip. Since it was still early, with the sun still shining brightly, we took a long break here, enjoying the scene—mule riders arriving and dismounting for a potty break before they headed out to Plateau Point; squirrels running amok and begging for food; condors circling above; and tired hikers sprawled here and there.
We had 4.5 miles and 2400 feet to go. From this point, we encountered one mule train after another coming down, and we had to get off the trail and wait a number of times. And then after 3-Mile Resthouse, we faced an ever-increasing deluge of dayhikers. The rule—and I believe it is posted somewhere on a sign—is that uphill hikers have the right of way. But most of these people apparently didn’t get the memo, and didn’t yield. By this time, Sharon, as fit as she is, was starting to struggle with the altitude (almost 6,000 feet at that point). So we broke into two groups, with DD and DH going ahead, and Sharon and Michael and I following more slowly. Since I was in front, it was my job to give the evil eye to anyone who blocked our progress. I know these people didn’t mean to be inconsiderate; maybe they thought that people coming up might like an excuse to stop and let them by. But actually, it is much easier to just keep moving up; you develop a momentum and a rhythm such that it is annoying to have to stop or move aside for people coming down.
And then we came to a knot of people totally blocking the trail. Before I had a chance to muster up my courage to ask them to move, I saw why they had stopped—a bighorn sheep was standing on the uphill side of the trail, grazing or trying to. With his head lowered, we were eye-to-eye, less than 5 feet apart. All the annoyance evaporated—what a treat it was to see him up so close, if only for the few seconds he waited before bounding off. A hundred yards or so further on, there was another, this time below the trail. (I looked them up in my natural history book when we got to our rooms, and it says that the desert bighorn sheep are very rarely seen as high as the rims. So this was indeed a treat.) The next thing I knew, we were at the top—3 hours after leaving Indian Gardens. Total hiking time, including all stops except the long one at Indian Gardens, was 5 hours. Not bad for a bunch of senior citizens and a kid. I felt fine, but I was looking forward to taking off the backpack, soaking in a hot shower, and indulging in the rest of our well-earned reward (a good dinner and wine).
If you have hiked up the Bright Angel, you will know that there is a “Y” at the top. The right arm goes to the mule corral, and the left turns into a paved path to the Kolb Studio and the Bright Angel Lodge. This is the correct way for a hiker to go. When Michael, Sharon and I reached this point, DH and DD were far ahead and out of sight, but DH and I had done the hike the year before, so I was confident that he knew his way. I suggested to Michael and Sharon that we go to the car and we would find them there (I was the one carrying the car keys). It was now becoming quite cold, so I hoped they hadn’t been waiting for us long. The first snowflakes started falling just as we approached the car. DD and DH were not there.
We opened the car, had a snack, and put on warmer clothes while we waited. After about 10 minutes, DH appeared, but no DD. It turns out she needed the restroom, and had gone ahead of him. She had seen the ones at the mule corral when we were there 2 days ago, so that’s where she went. DH, on the other hand, knew the correct way was up to the left, so that’s where he went. When he didn’t find here there, he assumed she had either gone to wait at Bright Angel Lodge (at the ice cream place), or to the car. But he didn’t find her in either place.
We weren’t too worried about her being lost, because she knew we were going to check in at El Tovar, and she knew here way around because we had already spent 2 days there. Plus, she is a sensible kid. But it was getting colder, and the snow was falling a bit faster, and she was only dressed in shorts and a light jacket. I was unhappy because we had violated two rules of hiking in a group: Rule # 1 is “Never split up without a plan”. Rule # 2 is “Don’t carry things for anyone else that they might need”. DH had kindly taken DD’s warm fleece jacket and put it in his pack to lighten her load. Now she needed that jacket!
We decided that I would go to El Tovar and look for her there, and check in. DH would make a loop around the area to look for DD, while Michael and Sharon waited at the car in case she showed up there.
I walked over to El Tovar, scoured the lobby for DD without success, and checked in and got our keys. Then I went and sat on the porch to wait, hopping that she would show up soon. I pulled more warm clothes out of my pack, and watched everyone either enjoying the snow or scurrying to get someplace warm. The lobby at El Tovar was fast filling up with people coming in from the snow. Some kids started a snowball fight with the tiny bit of snow that had started to stick on the lawn.
After about 20 minutes, Michael, Sharon and DH arrived in the car. They had decided that DD must have shown up at El Tovar by now. My heart sank when I saw them without her. We decided to leave one person posted in the lobby to watch for her in all the confusion, while we took bags up to the room and got dressed more warmly for an outside search. Just as DH and got to our room and shut the door, there was an urgent knock, and there she was! She had come in through the back hallway rather than the lobby, but spotted us going up the stairs. A brief shower of tears, hugs all around, and DD and DH set off to the Bright Angel Lodge-–for ice cream! (After she put on warm clothes). By the time they got back, 4-5 inches of snow had accumulated on the paths, the trees, and the rocks. We all went out for a walk to enjoy the beauty of the rim covered in snow—not something you expect to see in mid-April.
We gathered for our final pre-dinner game of Scrabble, enjoyed another tasty dinner at El Tovar, and slept like logs. DH and DD are now talking of a rim-to-rim hike for next time. I’ll have to get working on that. . .
Bottom line: it’s a wonderful hike, and not that hard to set up if you apply for your permit at the first opportunity, and get your lodging reservations. You need to be sure you are fit enough for the hike, particularly the climb back up. Carry plenty of water, enjoy the journey—and don’t forget Rules # 1 and # 2!
I’m skipping the day we spent exploring the bottom of the canyon; this report is “all about the journey”. Wednesday afternoon, the same ranger came around to check permits again, around 5 pm. The first thing she said was: “The good news is, the snow is supposed to hold off until 4 pm.” Yaaaay----this meant we should be done hiking up, and wouldn’t have to face snow on the trail. But not knowing what kind of hikers we were, she warned—“just try to get past the Devil’s Corkscrew before then, and remember—one hand on the wall!” She noticed the odd look on Michael’s face, and told him not to worry. Then: “See that guy over there?” (Pointing to a man in uniform who was talking to the people in the next campsite after checking their permit) “He came down the Bright Angel trail 17 years ago and can’t face going up. He’s still here so we made him a volunteer!” I think it’s a standard joke for people who seem anxious about the hike up.
After she left we brought out the last of our wine, poured Michael a glass, and settled in with the Scrabble until it was time for dinner.
Thursday morning dawned bright and clear, with not a cloud in the sky. We rose early because we had to have our gear packed and the duffles carried over the Phantom Ranch before 7:00 am. There was a scale there and tags to mark them; it was all on the honor system (no ornery wrangler to contend with). Since we had consumed the food we brought down I the duffle, we replaced that weight with our trash. It wasn’t much (even including the 4 1/4-liter wine boxes), and DH compressed it all into the multi-purpose Tupperware container that I brought down filled with tortilla chips, then used for my cereal bowl at breakfast. Both duffles were still under 30 pounds We stopped at the Phantom “Starbucks” equivalent, a kitchen window where one can buy coffee and hot chocolate in the morning, since we had already packed the stoves and cookware. Then back to camp for breakfast and to finish packing up. We were on the trail by 8:00. In the summer, this would be a late start, but in cooler weather it was fine.
The mules and riders had departed about 30 minutes earlier, using the trail on the other side of the creek. But they have to go back and over the Black Bridge, while we went forward and over a different bridge, it didn’t take us long to catch up to them along the river trail. They had stopped to adjust everyone’s gear and stirrups. Since it is not allowed (nor safe) to pass a mule train, we had to stop and wait for them to get underway again. DD used this as an opportunity to take some photos of the Colorado River and the inner canyon. We did not have the treat of seeing any rafters go by; I suppose it was too early in the morning.
Eventually the mules got underway again, and so did we. The trail works its way along above the river until it comes to a creek, which you more or less follow up to Indian Gardens, which is about half-way in terms of miles (but not elevation gain). The creek is lovely and it is a pleasure to walk alongside it. The trail crosses it several times, but there are rocks you can step on to get across. At each crossing, we encountered people resting from the climb. We stopped only once along this stretch, for Michael to investigate the source of a water leak. It turns out his Camelback was leaking at the point where the tube joined the main bag. The water soaked his pack, then ran down has back and . . . If you follow the natural gravity course of that water you can imaging how annoying it must have been. After fiddling with the thing and deciding there was no hope for fixing it he dumped the water. But first we made sure that among us we had plenty to get to Indian Gardens.
The Devil’s Corkscrew, by which one gains the last part of elevation up to Indian Gardens, was not as fearsome as the name would suggest. We did have to form up the “Michael sandwich” and keep moving, passing just about everyone who had left the campground ahead of us. At the top of the switchbacks, the grade of the trail flattens, and we joined the creek again. We arrived at Indian Gardens 2 hours after leaving camp, still with lots of energy and spring in our steps.
Indian Gardens is well-named—a lovely oasis along the creek, with wild grape, canyon redbud (unfortunately past the bloom time) and cottonwood trees. There is a rest area under the trees, with a hitching post for mules, benches, a water fountain, and, a bit away from these, a set of composting toilets, dubbed by DH as the cleanest on the whole trip. Since it was still early, with the sun still shining brightly, we took a long break here, enjoying the scene—mule riders arriving and dismounting for a potty break before they headed out to Plateau Point; squirrels running amok and begging for food; condors circling above; and tired hikers sprawled here and there.
We had 4.5 miles and 2400 feet to go. From this point, we encountered one mule train after another coming down, and we had to get off the trail and wait a number of times. And then after 3-Mile Resthouse, we faced an ever-increasing deluge of dayhikers. The rule—and I believe it is posted somewhere on a sign—is that uphill hikers have the right of way. But most of these people apparently didn’t get the memo, and didn’t yield. By this time, Sharon, as fit as she is, was starting to struggle with the altitude (almost 6,000 feet at that point). So we broke into two groups, with DD and DH going ahead, and Sharon and Michael and I following more slowly. Since I was in front, it was my job to give the evil eye to anyone who blocked our progress. I know these people didn’t mean to be inconsiderate; maybe they thought that people coming up might like an excuse to stop and let them by. But actually, it is much easier to just keep moving up; you develop a momentum and a rhythm such that it is annoying to have to stop or move aside for people coming down.
And then we came to a knot of people totally blocking the trail. Before I had a chance to muster up my courage to ask them to move, I saw why they had stopped—a bighorn sheep was standing on the uphill side of the trail, grazing or trying to. With his head lowered, we were eye-to-eye, less than 5 feet apart. All the annoyance evaporated—what a treat it was to see him up so close, if only for the few seconds he waited before bounding off. A hundred yards or so further on, there was another, this time below the trail. (I looked them up in my natural history book when we got to our rooms, and it says that the desert bighorn sheep are very rarely seen as high as the rims. So this was indeed a treat.) The next thing I knew, we were at the top—3 hours after leaving Indian Gardens. Total hiking time, including all stops except the long one at Indian Gardens, was 5 hours. Not bad for a bunch of senior citizens and a kid. I felt fine, but I was looking forward to taking off the backpack, soaking in a hot shower, and indulging in the rest of our well-earned reward (a good dinner and wine).
If you have hiked up the Bright Angel, you will know that there is a “Y” at the top. The right arm goes to the mule corral, and the left turns into a paved path to the Kolb Studio and the Bright Angel Lodge. This is the correct way for a hiker to go. When Michael, Sharon and I reached this point, DH and DD were far ahead and out of sight, but DH and I had done the hike the year before, so I was confident that he knew his way. I suggested to Michael and Sharon that we go to the car and we would find them there (I was the one carrying the car keys). It was now becoming quite cold, so I hoped they hadn’t been waiting for us long. The first snowflakes started falling just as we approached the car. DD and DH were not there.
We opened the car, had a snack, and put on warmer clothes while we waited. After about 10 minutes, DH appeared, but no DD. It turns out she needed the restroom, and had gone ahead of him. She had seen the ones at the mule corral when we were there 2 days ago, so that’s where she went. DH, on the other hand, knew the correct way was up to the left, so that’s where he went. When he didn’t find here there, he assumed she had either gone to wait at Bright Angel Lodge (at the ice cream place), or to the car. But he didn’t find her in either place.
We weren’t too worried about her being lost, because she knew we were going to check in at El Tovar, and she knew here way around because we had already spent 2 days there. Plus, she is a sensible kid. But it was getting colder, and the snow was falling a bit faster, and she was only dressed in shorts and a light jacket. I was unhappy because we had violated two rules of hiking in a group: Rule # 1 is “Never split up without a plan”. Rule # 2 is “Don’t carry things for anyone else that they might need”. DH had kindly taken DD’s warm fleece jacket and put it in his pack to lighten her load. Now she needed that jacket!
We decided that I would go to El Tovar and look for her there, and check in. DH would make a loop around the area to look for DD, while Michael and Sharon waited at the car in case she showed up there.
I walked over to El Tovar, scoured the lobby for DD without success, and checked in and got our keys. Then I went and sat on the porch to wait, hopping that she would show up soon. I pulled more warm clothes out of my pack, and watched everyone either enjoying the snow or scurrying to get someplace warm. The lobby at El Tovar was fast filling up with people coming in from the snow. Some kids started a snowball fight with the tiny bit of snow that had started to stick on the lawn.
After about 20 minutes, Michael, Sharon and DH arrived in the car. They had decided that DD must have shown up at El Tovar by now. My heart sank when I saw them without her. We decided to leave one person posted in the lobby to watch for her in all the confusion, while we took bags up to the room and got dressed more warmly for an outside search. Just as DH and got to our room and shut the door, there was an urgent knock, and there she was! She had come in through the back hallway rather than the lobby, but spotted us going up the stairs. A brief shower of tears, hugs all around, and DD and DH set off to the Bright Angel Lodge-–for ice cream! (After she put on warm clothes). By the time they got back, 4-5 inches of snow had accumulated on the paths, the trees, and the rocks. We all went out for a walk to enjoy the beauty of the rim covered in snow—not something you expect to see in mid-April.
We gathered for our final pre-dinner game of Scrabble, enjoyed another tasty dinner at El Tovar, and slept like logs. DH and DD are now talking of a rim-to-rim hike for next time. I’ll have to get working on that. . .
Bottom line: it’s a wonderful hike, and not that hard to set up if you apply for your permit at the first opportunity, and get your lodging reservations. You need to be sure you are fit enough for the hike, particularly the climb back up. Carry plenty of water, enjoy the journey—and don’t forget Rules # 1 and # 2!
May 1st, 2007, 03:23 AM
#36
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enzian, absolutely 
the TR!!!
I would love to do this... but I'm scared of heights. It would be a nice goal to get in good cardio condition
What were Michael's impressions afterwards? Was it worth the scare?
Was there a specific reason to camp vs. staying and at the Phantom Ranch dorm?
the TR!!!I would love to do this... but I'm scared of heights. It would be a nice goal to get in good cardio condition
What were Michael's impressions afterwards? Was it worth the scare?
Was there a specific reason to camp vs. staying and at the Phantom Ranch dorm?
May 1st, 2007, 05:05 AM
#38
Fabulous, fabulous, fabulous!!!
With time constraints (Thanksgiving breaks) in our 3 trips there, one went only as far as the first rest stop, one to Indian Gardens, and one to Plateau Point. I SO want to hike to bottom next and your report is very inspiring and chock full of much needed information. DD and SIL have been to the bottom twice, camping both times, and had a rim to rim planned, then she got sick and needed surgery. One day they will, I am sure.
Thank you so much for taking the time to write this all out (so beautifully too)...it was spellbinding!
With time constraints (Thanksgiving breaks) in our 3 trips there, one went only as far as the first rest stop, one to Indian Gardens, and one to Plateau Point. I SO want to hike to bottom next and your report is very inspiring and chock full of much needed information. DD and SIL have been to the bottom twice, camping both times, and had a rim to rim planned, then she got sick and needed surgery. One day they will, I am sure.
Thank you so much for taking the time to write this all out (so beautifully too)...it was spellbinding!
May 1st, 2007, 05:37 AM
#39
Join Date: Feb 2004
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enzian,
Wonderful report!
I don't know if DH and I will ever make this hike, but sure hope to. If we never do, at least your great TR gave us a glimpse of what it's like.
Give Michael a pat on the back for me. I don't have a fear of heights, but do have a fear of water over my head. When DH and honeymooned in Hawaii 12 years ago I wanted to see the beautiful fish so I made myself jump off the boat into 60 feet of water.
Knowing I had someone I could count on (DH) waiting there to help made that possible. I'm sure, for Michael, having you and Sharon as the "bread" for his sandwich, made this trek doable. Hope he enjoyed it as much as I enjoyed the snorkling.
Looking forward to reading about your rim-to-rim hike some day.
fran
Wonderful report!
I don't know if DH and I will ever make this hike, but sure hope to. If we never do, at least your great TR gave us a glimpse of what it's like.
Give Michael a pat on the back for me. I don't have a fear of heights, but do have a fear of water over my head. When DH and honeymooned in Hawaii 12 years ago I wanted to see the beautiful fish so I made myself jump off the boat into 60 feet of water.
Knowing I had someone I could count on (DH) waiting there to help made that possible. I'm sure, for Michael, having you and Sharon as the "bread" for his sandwich, made this trek doable. Hope he enjoyed it as much as I enjoyed the snorkling.
Looking forward to reading about your rim-to-rim hike some day.
fran
