First Trip to Honolulu and Big Island, July 2008
Jul 19th, 2008, 05:46 PM
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First Trip to Honolulu and Big Island, July 2008
29 June-10 July 2008 Honolulu and Island of Hawaii Trip Report
My husband was invited jointly by the University of Hawaii and the Hawaii Children�s Literature Festival to speak at the biannual festival in June, so instead of our usual summer Caribbean vacation, we planned our first trip to Hawaii instead. After all, since both of our flights were completely paid for, we�d never be able to travel there as economically again, so we took advantage of this rare opportunity. After much deliberation between Kauai and the Big Island, I selected the latter as our prime destination after my husband�s obligations to the Children�s Literature Festival were finished.
Flight � We had the incredible good fortune of being booked in Northwest�s World Business Class out of Minneapolis, so even the actual flights were enjoyable. This was our first experience with such a level of comfort and service in the air and it was completely spoiling! Alas, I doubt we�ll ever fly that way again, as we�re more inclined to splurge on our destination, not our mode of transportation, so I made sure to take advantage of every little bit. Hot towel? Why yes, please! Lumbar massage? Certainly! Lie-flat seats for a nap over the Pacific? I�d be foolish not to! A maitai before takeoff, decent meals, bottomless wineglass, and a tropical trail mix? Bring them on!
Honolulu
Hotel � We stayed at the Ala Moana for our two nights in Honolulu because my first night there was already paid for by the university and it seemed like a lot of trouble to change hotels for just one night. In retrospect, I can�t decide if I�m sorry about that or not. We found the hotel to be adequate overall, but it�s certainly nothing we would have chosen for ourselves. The location next to the Ala Moana Shopping Center is ideal for those who want to shop, and it was about a 15 minute amble to the water�s edge of the Ala Moana Park. Our room, #757 in the Kona Tower, was tiny but nicely appointed with a queen bed, pull-out sofa, and a flat screen TV which we never turned on. Our immediate view was of the parking garage for the mall, with the marina and then the ocean beyond that. There was a sliding glass door but no balcony�excuse me, lanai�to speak of. The temperature control was an old-fashioned variety so that the fan could be hot or cold, on or off, and it was always humid in the room. We either froze with the fan on all night or suffocated with it off. By the time we checked out any clothing that had been left out in the room was noticeably damp. The complimentary high-speed internet was a joke. The one time we were able to get a connection, it took entire minutes to load the homepage. We waited so long for our email to download that we left it while we went to dinner but the connection timed out before we returned. Wi-Fi was available, but for a charge! In a business/convention hotel! Based on the rate we paid our last night, $149/night plus taxes, I�d say this place was an okay value.
Activities -- Ala Moana Shopping Center � My husband and I poked around here for a couple of hours on my day of arrival as a means of keeping me awake and ambulatory before bedtime. I was amazed at how high-end many of the shops were, mostly shop after shop of designer labels, most of which have never graced my closet! I�m not a shopper at all�I�d rather pay TJ Maxx prices and put the money I save toward travel�but it really was fun and a little exotic to window shop the open air mall.
Arizona Memorial (free) � We got up early on my first morning and took a taxi out to Pearl Harbor (about $35 plus tip). Even though we arrived by 6:45, the line had already snaked down two sides of the main square. I left my backpack at the Bowfin bagcheck and then we stood in line for about 45 minutes until it opened. We ended up being in group #2 and so just poked around in the museum until it was time for us to watch the film, which we both found very moving. The subdued boat ride across the water and then the relative silence walking around the memorial both added to the haunted atmosphere. My husband had been given several lei over the course of his trip, so we stripped the wilting flowers off the strings and strew them into the water in benediction. Definitely a must-do experience in my opinion.
My husband has been obsessed with airplanes since he was a wee babe, so from there we caught the shuttle to Ford Island to see the new(ish) aviation museum. Admission $14 pp. It was pleasant enough but it felt like a fairly small museum considering it is dedicated to airplanes. There was one large room with about half a dozen various planes with lots of information about WWII thoughtfully interspersed among them, and one small theatre to watch a film about the bombing of Pearl Harbor. Add in a casual café and a gift shop and that�s all there is to it. I would consider this a must-do only if you�re a real airplane buff, and even then you might be gently disappointed with it as my husband was.
We opted to take the bus back to our hotel�a bargain at $2 each. The ride back took just a little over half an hour, compared to about 15 minutes by taxi, but I was glad to be on the public transportation, especially as we passed by a few places that I would otherwise not have seen�Chinatown, Iolani Palace, etc.
Ala Moana Park � We walked here twice from the hotel, once on my first full day and then just after sunrise the next day, and enjoyed it very much. The first afternoon we enjoyed watching the girls� crewed outrigger canoes that were practicing on the water as well as the boys� track team that was practicing along the pathways. Overall, a very pleasant place to pass the beginning or end of the day.
FOOD
Aaron�s -- My first night, my husband became violently ill and couldn�t bring himself to eat anything, and I was dead on my feet by 7:00 pm that evening, so we copped out by dining in the hotel restaurant. We had a lovely panoramic view of from our cozy booth on the top floor, looking out through the floor to ceiling windows, but that was the best part of the evening. I had the opakapaka, sorbet for dessert, both of which were good, and a gin and tonic. My husband ordered three club sodas with several dashes of bitters (if you don�t know it already, it�s a fabulous way to settle the tummy), but our total bill still came to $80 plus tip. I was a little shocked! Though the food was good and the service was pleasant, I�d say it�s best to dine elsewhere unless, like me, you�re just too tired to go anyplace else.
Longhi�s (in Ala Moana shopping center) � We went here for lunch after returning from Pearl Harbor and I thought it was lovely. It was the first time since I arrived in Hawaii that I really felt like I was someplace tropical and beautiful. This open air restaurant with lovely views out to the water offers a casual atmosphere. We shared a delicious salad with a mint shallot vinaigrette, a corned beef sandwich that was good, and a fantastic key lime pie. Two plantation teas (iced tea sweetened with pineapple juice) brought our meal to $34 plus tip. We both loved this place and definitely give it a thumbs-up.
Orchids at Halekulani Resort � We went here on my second night to celebrate our 5th wedding anniversary, which my husband mentioned when he made the reservation. Their management must be doing something right, because we were taken to a table with great views of Diamondhead and the ocean, wished a happy anniversary by every staff member we encountered, and comped us a slice of scrumptious coconut cake. DH started with a blue cheese and broccoli soup that he declared superb. My broiled ono and his herb-crusted opakapaka were done to perfection. I sampled two fun cocktails that featured ginger�one was called a Pink Elephant with a ginger-sugar rimmed glass and the other was similar to a mojito with ginger added�that were both delicious. We also ordered a fruit terrine for our other dessert, which was fine but not nearly as good as the coconut cake. So, one soup, two entrees, one dessert, and four cocktails came to only $115, plus tip. Frankly, I was so surprised that it wasn�t more, considering the quality of the food, the service, and the ambience, that I had to double check to make sure they didn�t undercharge us. Round trip taxi was about $40, plus tip. Definitely recommend this place for a special meal!
AIRPORT/CONNECTIONS � Taxi to the airport was $40, including a tip for handling all of our bags. We had actually checked into our Hawaiian Airlines flight from the hotel at a kiosk in the lobby, which was convenient. The Honolulu airport, or at least the inter-island section of it, sure could use more, or at least better, signage. Not knowing that we were standing only a dozen feet away from the opening that led to our gate, we still couldn�t see our gate number. So we walked up and down, looking at the signs overhead. Our gate happened to be tucked away on a lower level so that it can�t be seen from the concourse. We found it eventually, of course, but there you have it�my personal recommendation is for better signage in HNL!
Hilo
We picked up our rental car from Alamo (an astonishingly bright canary yellow) and mistakenly turned left out of the airport instead of right towards downtown Hilo. We were planning to find a place to have a late lunch and had wanted to explore downtown before checking in to our B&B, but those plans were thwarted. I was totally dismayed to find myself on a multilane highway, surrounded by big box store after box store. This is Hilo? Where�s the funky small town vibe I�d read about it? As Wal-Mart gave way to Borders, we at least perked up at passing the Hilo Bay Café. Alas, they were too crowded to seat us, and as we were famished we made our way a few doors down to the food court of the strip mall for a couple of plate lunches. DH opted for some food of the oriental persuasion and I selected the skinless bbq chicken plate. Apparently, skinless means something different in Hilo than it does at home, as it actually had skin on it, but it was still tasty. DH was not so fortunate in his choice, though. Still, we were glad to have food in our bellies, and it only came to $16 for two plate lunches with sides and a shared fountain drink.
HALE KAI B&B � After lunch we made our way to our home for the next two nights, feeling much better about Hilo once we left the concrete and highway behind. The owners of Hale Kai were gone when we arrived, but they left us a note and our key on the front door, so we wrangled our luggage down one set of stone steps and then up another to reach our room, the Bamboo Room. It was much more spacious than what we had left behind in Honolulu, and the view alone was worth the price of admission. One entire wall of the room was nothing but picture window looking out over the ocean. The house itself is situated on a low cliff, so that little bit of elevation kept our room (no a/c) comfortable and the breezes kept the worst of the mozzies at bay. As many guests have noted, the Bamboo room has a somewhat funky and dated décor, but to be honest, we found it charming. It was so refreshing to be staying there after being cooped up in the corporate hotel that is the Ala Moana that we would have gladly put up with much funkier, but really, the room was airy and bright and prettier than online photos of it suggest.
We had a semi-private patio with two Adirondack chairs and a table. I call it semi-private not because it was shared, but because the guests staying in the room next to ours would be able to see us when going to and from their room. In fact, our room was the most private of all because it was the last one on the shared walkway that leads to all four rooms. The B&B also had a nice sized pool, whirlpool, lounge chairs, and was lushly landscaped. And yes, like others before us, we certainly enjoyed watching the surfers in the cove below us.
Breakfasts were done very well at Hale Kai. Fresh Kona coffee was served at 7:30 on the upper lanai, followed by a large fruit platter at 8:00, followed shortly thereafter by the main meal. Generally we had lillikoi (passion fruit), banana, papaya, lychee, melon and pineapple. One morning we were served a feta frittata with mango scones and the next we had French toast made of taro bread and Hawaiian sweet bread with a choice of maple or coconut syrup. Though the frittata was good, it�s the sweet tooth in me that simply adored the taro French toast with coconut syrup!
We really liked the Hale Kai. The location was quiet but located a convenient drive away from downtown Hilo and attractions like Rainbow Falls. We would unreservedly recommend it for someone looking for a quiet and comfortable place to stay, with fabulous views and hearty breakfasts. And at $150/night, it�s also a very good value.
ACTIVITIES
VNP � W e chose to stay in Hilo for two nights so that we could be close to VNP, so our first morning after breakfast we stopped first at the farmer�s market (it was a Wednesday) and were amazed at the abundance. After only 30 minutes or so we tore ourselves away to head to VNP, stopping only to pick up a styrofoam cooler, ice, and some bottled water to fortify us during the heat of the day. The drive took about 45 minutes and then we pulled up to pay the admission-- $10/vehicle.
We spent some time at the visitors center, reading the exhibits and checking the map, then took off to view the smoking caldera. It was unlike anything we�d ever seen. I might even say otherworldly. Hard to believe that thousands of tons of sulphur dioxide gas are given off every day there! We walked hither and yon, exploring the steam vents and the sulphur boardwalk before driving on to the end of the open road to the other museum. After that we doubled back to the Chain of Craters road to explore the lava tube and to drive on through the barren landscape. The incredible lushness outside the lava tube is quite the juxtaposition with the lava flows! This was a great way to spend the day, and we came away feeling both amazed and educated.
RAINBOW FALLS and PE�E PE�E � Because it was unusually dry during our stay, both of these landmarks looked, shall we say, underwhelming, even after a brief afternoon shower. We visited them both twice but noticed no significant differences before or after the rain. However, there�s an incredible banyan tree in the copse behind the waterfall, had to be bigger around than any tree I�ve ever seen (I�ve never been to Redwood National Forest), so we enthusiastically shot tons of pictures of it, with my husband thinking that he�d like to use it for a story illustration one day.
(LILIUOKALANI GARDENS) � After checking into Hale Kai, we went back out to explore a bit and this Japanese-style garden was our first destination. The tide must have been high because many of the paths were underwater, but it was still picturesque and serene. We spent quite a bit of time meandering through the garden, pausing to read the various plaques or to sit on a lone bench half shrouded by tree limbs. Very pretty place, and even better, it�s a public garden so it�s free for anybody to enjoy.
From there we took the footbridge over to COCONUT ISLAND, where we had fun watching the folks there just hanging out. Kids were jumping off the footbridge into the bay, older adults were snoozing with their dogs in the late afternoon sun, some kids were netting for crabs, some teens were skateboarding, and some other kids were jumping off the little tower just offshore into the water. It wasn�t until I got home and read on Trip Advisor about the dangers of the water quality in Hilo Bay, so of course now I�m dismayed over all of those children in the water, willy-nilly.
DOWNTOWN HILO � Since we felt rushed at the Farmer�s Market the morning of our trip to VNP, we stopped by afterwards when we had more time to explore downtown, but most of the stalls had closed up by that time. Instead, we poked here and there at the other shops, with our usual agonizing�is it too early in the trip to be laden down with souvenirs? Should we wait until we move northward before shopping? How tacky is too tacky when it comes to certain souvenirs? What if we spend all of our money now and find the perfect thing later in the trip? Well, what we had really wanted to bring home was a memento was a traditional Hawaiian quilt, not knowing that a median price for one would be $2000, and we thought that the more off the beaten path we traveled, the less expensive they would be. We never found one that we could afford, sadly. In the end, we bought some books and maps at the Hilo Bookstore and called it a day.
To be continued�
My husband was invited jointly by the University of Hawaii and the Hawaii Children�s Literature Festival to speak at the biannual festival in June, so instead of our usual summer Caribbean vacation, we planned our first trip to Hawaii instead. After all, since both of our flights were completely paid for, we�d never be able to travel there as economically again, so we took advantage of this rare opportunity. After much deliberation between Kauai and the Big Island, I selected the latter as our prime destination after my husband�s obligations to the Children�s Literature Festival were finished.
Flight � We had the incredible good fortune of being booked in Northwest�s World Business Class out of Minneapolis, so even the actual flights were enjoyable. This was our first experience with such a level of comfort and service in the air and it was completely spoiling! Alas, I doubt we�ll ever fly that way again, as we�re more inclined to splurge on our destination, not our mode of transportation, so I made sure to take advantage of every little bit. Hot towel? Why yes, please! Lumbar massage? Certainly! Lie-flat seats for a nap over the Pacific? I�d be foolish not to! A maitai before takeoff, decent meals, bottomless wineglass, and a tropical trail mix? Bring them on!
Honolulu
Hotel � We stayed at the Ala Moana for our two nights in Honolulu because my first night there was already paid for by the university and it seemed like a lot of trouble to change hotels for just one night. In retrospect, I can�t decide if I�m sorry about that or not. We found the hotel to be adequate overall, but it�s certainly nothing we would have chosen for ourselves. The location next to the Ala Moana Shopping Center is ideal for those who want to shop, and it was about a 15 minute amble to the water�s edge of the Ala Moana Park. Our room, #757 in the Kona Tower, was tiny but nicely appointed with a queen bed, pull-out sofa, and a flat screen TV which we never turned on. Our immediate view was of the parking garage for the mall, with the marina and then the ocean beyond that. There was a sliding glass door but no balcony�excuse me, lanai�to speak of. The temperature control was an old-fashioned variety so that the fan could be hot or cold, on or off, and it was always humid in the room. We either froze with the fan on all night or suffocated with it off. By the time we checked out any clothing that had been left out in the room was noticeably damp. The complimentary high-speed internet was a joke. The one time we were able to get a connection, it took entire minutes to load the homepage. We waited so long for our email to download that we left it while we went to dinner but the connection timed out before we returned. Wi-Fi was available, but for a charge! In a business/convention hotel! Based on the rate we paid our last night, $149/night plus taxes, I�d say this place was an okay value.
Activities -- Ala Moana Shopping Center � My husband and I poked around here for a couple of hours on my day of arrival as a means of keeping me awake and ambulatory before bedtime. I was amazed at how high-end many of the shops were, mostly shop after shop of designer labels, most of which have never graced my closet! I�m not a shopper at all�I�d rather pay TJ Maxx prices and put the money I save toward travel�but it really was fun and a little exotic to window shop the open air mall.
Arizona Memorial (free) � We got up early on my first morning and took a taxi out to Pearl Harbor (about $35 plus tip). Even though we arrived by 6:45, the line had already snaked down two sides of the main square. I left my backpack at the Bowfin bagcheck and then we stood in line for about 45 minutes until it opened. We ended up being in group #2 and so just poked around in the museum until it was time for us to watch the film, which we both found very moving. The subdued boat ride across the water and then the relative silence walking around the memorial both added to the haunted atmosphere. My husband had been given several lei over the course of his trip, so we stripped the wilting flowers off the strings and strew them into the water in benediction. Definitely a must-do experience in my opinion.
My husband has been obsessed with airplanes since he was a wee babe, so from there we caught the shuttle to Ford Island to see the new(ish) aviation museum. Admission $14 pp. It was pleasant enough but it felt like a fairly small museum considering it is dedicated to airplanes. There was one large room with about half a dozen various planes with lots of information about WWII thoughtfully interspersed among them, and one small theatre to watch a film about the bombing of Pearl Harbor. Add in a casual café and a gift shop and that�s all there is to it. I would consider this a must-do only if you�re a real airplane buff, and even then you might be gently disappointed with it as my husband was.
We opted to take the bus back to our hotel�a bargain at $2 each. The ride back took just a little over half an hour, compared to about 15 minutes by taxi, but I was glad to be on the public transportation, especially as we passed by a few places that I would otherwise not have seen�Chinatown, Iolani Palace, etc.
Ala Moana Park � We walked here twice from the hotel, once on my first full day and then just after sunrise the next day, and enjoyed it very much. The first afternoon we enjoyed watching the girls� crewed outrigger canoes that were practicing on the water as well as the boys� track team that was practicing along the pathways. Overall, a very pleasant place to pass the beginning or end of the day.
FOOD
Aaron�s -- My first night, my husband became violently ill and couldn�t bring himself to eat anything, and I was dead on my feet by 7:00 pm that evening, so we copped out by dining in the hotel restaurant. We had a lovely panoramic view of from our cozy booth on the top floor, looking out through the floor to ceiling windows, but that was the best part of the evening. I had the opakapaka, sorbet for dessert, both of which were good, and a gin and tonic. My husband ordered three club sodas with several dashes of bitters (if you don�t know it already, it�s a fabulous way to settle the tummy), but our total bill still came to $80 plus tip. I was a little shocked! Though the food was good and the service was pleasant, I�d say it�s best to dine elsewhere unless, like me, you�re just too tired to go anyplace else.
Longhi�s (in Ala Moana shopping center) � We went here for lunch after returning from Pearl Harbor and I thought it was lovely. It was the first time since I arrived in Hawaii that I really felt like I was someplace tropical and beautiful. This open air restaurant with lovely views out to the water offers a casual atmosphere. We shared a delicious salad with a mint shallot vinaigrette, a corned beef sandwich that was good, and a fantastic key lime pie. Two plantation teas (iced tea sweetened with pineapple juice) brought our meal to $34 plus tip. We both loved this place and definitely give it a thumbs-up.
Orchids at Halekulani Resort � We went here on my second night to celebrate our 5th wedding anniversary, which my husband mentioned when he made the reservation. Their management must be doing something right, because we were taken to a table with great views of Diamondhead and the ocean, wished a happy anniversary by every staff member we encountered, and comped us a slice of scrumptious coconut cake. DH started with a blue cheese and broccoli soup that he declared superb. My broiled ono and his herb-crusted opakapaka were done to perfection. I sampled two fun cocktails that featured ginger�one was called a Pink Elephant with a ginger-sugar rimmed glass and the other was similar to a mojito with ginger added�that were both delicious. We also ordered a fruit terrine for our other dessert, which was fine but not nearly as good as the coconut cake. So, one soup, two entrees, one dessert, and four cocktails came to only $115, plus tip. Frankly, I was so surprised that it wasn�t more, considering the quality of the food, the service, and the ambience, that I had to double check to make sure they didn�t undercharge us. Round trip taxi was about $40, plus tip. Definitely recommend this place for a special meal!
AIRPORT/CONNECTIONS � Taxi to the airport was $40, including a tip for handling all of our bags. We had actually checked into our Hawaiian Airlines flight from the hotel at a kiosk in the lobby, which was convenient. The Honolulu airport, or at least the inter-island section of it, sure could use more, or at least better, signage. Not knowing that we were standing only a dozen feet away from the opening that led to our gate, we still couldn�t see our gate number. So we walked up and down, looking at the signs overhead. Our gate happened to be tucked away on a lower level so that it can�t be seen from the concourse. We found it eventually, of course, but there you have it�my personal recommendation is for better signage in HNL!
Hilo
We picked up our rental car from Alamo (an astonishingly bright canary yellow) and mistakenly turned left out of the airport instead of right towards downtown Hilo. We were planning to find a place to have a late lunch and had wanted to explore downtown before checking in to our B&B, but those plans were thwarted. I was totally dismayed to find myself on a multilane highway, surrounded by big box store after box store. This is Hilo? Where�s the funky small town vibe I�d read about it? As Wal-Mart gave way to Borders, we at least perked up at passing the Hilo Bay Café. Alas, they were too crowded to seat us, and as we were famished we made our way a few doors down to the food court of the strip mall for a couple of plate lunches. DH opted for some food of the oriental persuasion and I selected the skinless bbq chicken plate. Apparently, skinless means something different in Hilo than it does at home, as it actually had skin on it, but it was still tasty. DH was not so fortunate in his choice, though. Still, we were glad to have food in our bellies, and it only came to $16 for two plate lunches with sides and a shared fountain drink.
HALE KAI B&B � After lunch we made our way to our home for the next two nights, feeling much better about Hilo once we left the concrete and highway behind. The owners of Hale Kai were gone when we arrived, but they left us a note and our key on the front door, so we wrangled our luggage down one set of stone steps and then up another to reach our room, the Bamboo Room. It was much more spacious than what we had left behind in Honolulu, and the view alone was worth the price of admission. One entire wall of the room was nothing but picture window looking out over the ocean. The house itself is situated on a low cliff, so that little bit of elevation kept our room (no a/c) comfortable and the breezes kept the worst of the mozzies at bay. As many guests have noted, the Bamboo room has a somewhat funky and dated décor, but to be honest, we found it charming. It was so refreshing to be staying there after being cooped up in the corporate hotel that is the Ala Moana that we would have gladly put up with much funkier, but really, the room was airy and bright and prettier than online photos of it suggest.
We had a semi-private patio with two Adirondack chairs and a table. I call it semi-private not because it was shared, but because the guests staying in the room next to ours would be able to see us when going to and from their room. In fact, our room was the most private of all because it was the last one on the shared walkway that leads to all four rooms. The B&B also had a nice sized pool, whirlpool, lounge chairs, and was lushly landscaped. And yes, like others before us, we certainly enjoyed watching the surfers in the cove below us.
Breakfasts were done very well at Hale Kai. Fresh Kona coffee was served at 7:30 on the upper lanai, followed by a large fruit platter at 8:00, followed shortly thereafter by the main meal. Generally we had lillikoi (passion fruit), banana, papaya, lychee, melon and pineapple. One morning we were served a feta frittata with mango scones and the next we had French toast made of taro bread and Hawaiian sweet bread with a choice of maple or coconut syrup. Though the frittata was good, it�s the sweet tooth in me that simply adored the taro French toast with coconut syrup!
We really liked the Hale Kai. The location was quiet but located a convenient drive away from downtown Hilo and attractions like Rainbow Falls. We would unreservedly recommend it for someone looking for a quiet and comfortable place to stay, with fabulous views and hearty breakfasts. And at $150/night, it�s also a very good value.
ACTIVITIES
VNP � W e chose to stay in Hilo for two nights so that we could be close to VNP, so our first morning after breakfast we stopped first at the farmer�s market (it was a Wednesday) and were amazed at the abundance. After only 30 minutes or so we tore ourselves away to head to VNP, stopping only to pick up a styrofoam cooler, ice, and some bottled water to fortify us during the heat of the day. The drive took about 45 minutes and then we pulled up to pay the admission-- $10/vehicle.
We spent some time at the visitors center, reading the exhibits and checking the map, then took off to view the smoking caldera. It was unlike anything we�d ever seen. I might even say otherworldly. Hard to believe that thousands of tons of sulphur dioxide gas are given off every day there! We walked hither and yon, exploring the steam vents and the sulphur boardwalk before driving on to the end of the open road to the other museum. After that we doubled back to the Chain of Craters road to explore the lava tube and to drive on through the barren landscape. The incredible lushness outside the lava tube is quite the juxtaposition with the lava flows! This was a great way to spend the day, and we came away feeling both amazed and educated.
RAINBOW FALLS and PE�E PE�E � Because it was unusually dry during our stay, both of these landmarks looked, shall we say, underwhelming, even after a brief afternoon shower. We visited them both twice but noticed no significant differences before or after the rain. However, there�s an incredible banyan tree in the copse behind the waterfall, had to be bigger around than any tree I�ve ever seen (I�ve never been to Redwood National Forest), so we enthusiastically shot tons of pictures of it, with my husband thinking that he�d like to use it for a story illustration one day.
(LILIUOKALANI GARDENS) � After checking into Hale Kai, we went back out to explore a bit and this Japanese-style garden was our first destination. The tide must have been high because many of the paths were underwater, but it was still picturesque and serene. We spent quite a bit of time meandering through the garden, pausing to read the various plaques or to sit on a lone bench half shrouded by tree limbs. Very pretty place, and even better, it�s a public garden so it�s free for anybody to enjoy.
From there we took the footbridge over to COCONUT ISLAND, where we had fun watching the folks there just hanging out. Kids were jumping off the footbridge into the bay, older adults were snoozing with their dogs in the late afternoon sun, some kids were netting for crabs, some teens were skateboarding, and some other kids were jumping off the little tower just offshore into the water. It wasn�t until I got home and read on Trip Advisor about the dangers of the water quality in Hilo Bay, so of course now I�m dismayed over all of those children in the water, willy-nilly.
DOWNTOWN HILO � Since we felt rushed at the Farmer�s Market the morning of our trip to VNP, we stopped by afterwards when we had more time to explore downtown, but most of the stalls had closed up by that time. Instead, we poked here and there at the other shops, with our usual agonizing�is it too early in the trip to be laden down with souvenirs? Should we wait until we move northward before shopping? How tacky is too tacky when it comes to certain souvenirs? What if we spend all of our money now and find the perfect thing later in the trip? Well, what we had really wanted to bring home was a memento was a traditional Hawaiian quilt, not knowing that a median price for one would be $2000, and we thought that the more off the beaten path we traveled, the less expensive they would be. We never found one that we could afford, sadly. In the end, we bought some books and maps at the Hilo Bookstore and called it a day.
To be continued�
I'm looking forward to reading the continuation and seeing some photos.
Jul 20th, 2008, 08:00 PM
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Here's part two of what is becoming a VERY long TR, indeed:
FOOD
Our first night we decided on Thai, but since the place most recommended was closed while we were in town, we asked our hosts for advice. We took their suggestion of the oddly named Garden Snack Club and were quite pleased with it. Total hole in the wall kind of place, a handful of tables, BYOB, and service that was glacially slow (With one person working the tables and one person cooking, we didn’t expect it to be otherwise, I should say), but the food was great. And portions were huge. We easily could have shared one plate, but I opted for the asparagus salad with mint and lemongrass and DH went for the Mix Plate, and despite out best efforts we returned to the B&B with more than half of our food. My favorite part of the evening was the outstanding green iced tea with mint, honey, and lime. It was about the best thing I put in my mouth on the entire trip. Two teas, the salad and the entrée came to about $35, plus tip.
For our second dinner we chose Café Pesto for its charm, its full bar, and its air conditioning. We shared a mixed green salad with a creamy pesto dressing, one large Lane Kani pizza, and one apple crumble with macadamia nuts and ice cream. Two bar drinks brought our meal to $54 plus tip, all in a pleasant atmosphere with friendly service. The food was all good but nothing in particular stands out from that meal.
After our hot afternoon in VNP, we went poking around town to try one of the famous shave ices and found a few places downtown offering them. For a few bucks each, we tried a small watermelon and a small mango/pineapple combo. Loved the texture of the ice, didn’t care much for the chemical flavors of the syrups, sadly, so that was our first and last shave ice of the trip.
ONWARD TO HONOKA’A
We left Hilo shortly after our second breakfast with no itinerary other than to make it to our next B&B before their wine reception. Seeing a sign off of the highway proclaiming the Scenic Route was all we needed to start off on our next adventure. This road meandered over several small gorges, usually via bridges of only one lane, with tantalizing glimpses through the lush greenery out to the sunlit sea. The sun barely penetrated to the forest floor, the trees overhead were so thick. We crept along at a snail’s pace -- pulling over when possible to let other vehicles pass – stopping for photos or to wonder at the size of a fern or ficus.
Another bend in the road led us straight into the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Gardens (not to be confused with the Royal Botanical Gardens along the main highway) parking lot. Exchanging a look of “Why not?”, we hopped out of the car and for the next few hours became utterly engrossed with this place of beauty. Armed with a map of the gardens given to us by the attendant, we slowly descended the somewhat steep boardwalk (golf cart rides are provided to those in wheelchairs), pausing every other moment to gape at the outrageously oversized tropical flora. It was exactly as Alice must have felt in the Queen’s flowerbed, with every exotic blossom towering over her. Various paths led to different sections of the garden, including a koi pond covered in water lilies, an orchid section, and two waterfalls. Two-tiered Onomea Falls, the more impressive of the two, was a lovely as can be, and despite the paved pathway we felt as if we had stumbled across it by happenstance, in a completely natural habitat, and not as part of a planned tourist site. The sound of the water shut out all other noise, and created a completely intimate atmosphere so we could actually pause there for about 10 minutes undisturbed to appreciate the solitary beauty. Eventually, of course, other folks came through, so we gave up our bench and moved on to the next bit. All of the paths ultimately end with a loop that runs along the ocean’s edge, where we lingered again to watch the waves crash on the rocks to the left, right, and beneath us. I can’t recommend the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Gardens highly enough, and from what our host would tell us later that night, it’s head and shoulders above the Royal Botanical Gardens. Admission: $15 per person.
After that rather fabulous interlude we found ourselves driving north again, this time definitely keeping an eye out for Akaka Falls. They’re several minutes’ drive off the main hightway, on a road that steadily climbs in elevation to the point where you think you might be seeing the TOP of the falls, not the bottom. At 400 feet in height, they were certainly impressive, majestic even. But with the crowds of folks who were trying to get a good camera angle swarming around, we couldn’t help feeling a burst of nostalgia for the gentle Onomea Falls we’d just left behind.
Too hungry to drive to Honoka’a for our next meal, we ate lunch right in Honomu at a little place called Lisa’s Café. I’m not sure if we were the hungriest we’d been on that trip, or if the food really was that good, or perhaps a bit of both. We had a teriyaki burger and a kielbasa hotdog and shared a soda for $15 and it all tasted outstanding and disappeared in about negative two seconds. After lunch we walked up and down the little street at the various shops, stopped for ice cream (yum—coconut macadamia!), and hit the road again, pulling off the highway to look more closely at anything that caught our eye. In retrospect, I would have liked more time to explore more of these tiny towns and settlements, so I suppose I’ll have to save that for a future trip.
WAIANUHEA – Normally I wouldn’t have chosen to spend just one night anyplace on a trip like this, but this B&B caught my eye from the first time I saw its website. I knew it was too far away to be a good homebase to explore Hilo and VNP, but I also knew that I wouldn’t be happy unless I stayed there! I’m happy to say that it surpassed every expectation I had. For a little background, I booked a room there earlier in the spring and was only able to get my third room choice (out of four). Not long after, the owner emailed me and asked if I would be willing to book the smallest room at a discount, as she had a couple who wanted to book our room for a week’s stay. Well, I understand that. It would be inconvenient for the other couple to change rooms mid-stay. And yet, after consideration I politely declined – after all, we didn’t get our first choice for a room, either. Usually I’m a bit of a doormat, so I’m still slightly surprised that I refused. Anyway, the owner then wrote back and offered to upgrade us to the suite for no extra charge, which I then accepted, feeling slightly guilty about.
So, we check in and the ever-affable Bruce shows us around, telling us all about how the B&B is off the grid (cool! A place that really is as green as it purports to be!). Our jaws almost dropped when he opened the gate to our private courtyard and up the steps into Kauna Akea. I really couldn’t believe our good fortune, as the place was gorgeous. King-sized sleighbed, sizeable bathroom with a great tub for soaking, and a large living room, richly furnished with sofa and chairs done in sumptuous fabrics and leather, flatscreen tv, tables, and even a fireplace in the corner. High ceilings and windows covering two walls added to the sense of spaciousness and diminished the line between indoor and outdoor living. As if that weren’t enough, Bruce popped back as we were unpacking to present us a complimentary full bottle of champagne for our anniversary. I must have mentioned it during my initial email correspondence—I think there was a place on the order form to fill out if you were celebrating a birthday, wedding, etc. Really, between the upgrade and the champagne (with chocolates! Did I mention the chocolates?), it was an embarrassment of riches.
So, with ever so slight a champagne buzz, we walked back to the main house for the wine and pu-pus. We met Carol, the owner, and mingled with the other guests over some nice wine, poke tuna, octopus, some kind of sushi roll, cheese, crackers, and fresh veggies. I sampled it all, though I’m not a fan of sushi, octopus, or poke, and much to my surprise, I really enjoyed the octopus. Believe me when I saw that that’s something not often heard out of mouth!
The rest of the evening we wandered around the grounds, which include a small nursery of fruit trees and even a lava tube (which we were asked not to go into), and a frog pond. There’s a whirlpool off one of the many levels of terraced garden with view down to the ocean, and in the mornings when the air is clear, there’s a great view of Mauna Kea. We captured her on film before she shyly started gathering clouds around herself like a shield. That night was the clearest night sky I ever recall seeing. We sat outside in our courtyard, polishing off the last of the champagne, lolling in our chaises longues clad in the bathrobes provided by the B&B. It was like magic, seeing all of those stars and even the occasional satellite. Isn’t it odd how you can feel utterly insignificant, and yet never more interconnected, in the face of such vast grandeur?
We didn’t really want to wake up the next morning, knowing that it was our first and last night in that fabulous place. But wouldn’t you know that breakfast at Waianuhea is worth getting up for? We started with Kona coffee, a minted fruit plate with crème fraiche, warm scones, and ending with a potato, pea, and curry frittata. Those particular savories seemed a bit peculiar to me first thing in the morning, so I was delighted to find that it was delicious and quite to my liking.
Other details: Waianuhea offers free wi-fi as well as a desk in the common area where folks can check in via the computer provided. They stock a small kitchenette with frozen entrees, sodas, juices, and snacks that you can take advantage of using the honor system and charge items to your room. There’s also a movie library that guests can borrow from, free of charge. This place is a sort of getaway perfection—all of the creature comforts one needs provided in a natural setting that is stunning and eco-sensitive. I would just about return to the Big Island just so I could stay there again. It really IS that good. The service, the ambience, the food, the setting, the seclusion—I don’t really see how any could be improved upon.
Coming up next: Kona Village Resort
FOOD
Our first night we decided on Thai, but since the place most recommended was closed while we were in town, we asked our hosts for advice. We took their suggestion of the oddly named Garden Snack Club and were quite pleased with it. Total hole in the wall kind of place, a handful of tables, BYOB, and service that was glacially slow (With one person working the tables and one person cooking, we didn’t expect it to be otherwise, I should say), but the food was great. And portions were huge. We easily could have shared one plate, but I opted for the asparagus salad with mint and lemongrass and DH went for the Mix Plate, and despite out best efforts we returned to the B&B with more than half of our food. My favorite part of the evening was the outstanding green iced tea with mint, honey, and lime. It was about the best thing I put in my mouth on the entire trip. Two teas, the salad and the entrée came to about $35, plus tip.
For our second dinner we chose Café Pesto for its charm, its full bar, and its air conditioning. We shared a mixed green salad with a creamy pesto dressing, one large Lane Kani pizza, and one apple crumble with macadamia nuts and ice cream. Two bar drinks brought our meal to $54 plus tip, all in a pleasant atmosphere with friendly service. The food was all good but nothing in particular stands out from that meal.
After our hot afternoon in VNP, we went poking around town to try one of the famous shave ices and found a few places downtown offering them. For a few bucks each, we tried a small watermelon and a small mango/pineapple combo. Loved the texture of the ice, didn’t care much for the chemical flavors of the syrups, sadly, so that was our first and last shave ice of the trip.
ONWARD TO HONOKA’A
We left Hilo shortly after our second breakfast with no itinerary other than to make it to our next B&B before their wine reception. Seeing a sign off of the highway proclaiming the Scenic Route was all we needed to start off on our next adventure. This road meandered over several small gorges, usually via bridges of only one lane, with tantalizing glimpses through the lush greenery out to the sunlit sea. The sun barely penetrated to the forest floor, the trees overhead were so thick. We crept along at a snail’s pace -- pulling over when possible to let other vehicles pass – stopping for photos or to wonder at the size of a fern or ficus.
Another bend in the road led us straight into the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Gardens (not to be confused with the Royal Botanical Gardens along the main highway) parking lot. Exchanging a look of “Why not?”, we hopped out of the car and for the next few hours became utterly engrossed with this place of beauty. Armed with a map of the gardens given to us by the attendant, we slowly descended the somewhat steep boardwalk (golf cart rides are provided to those in wheelchairs), pausing every other moment to gape at the outrageously oversized tropical flora. It was exactly as Alice must have felt in the Queen’s flowerbed, with every exotic blossom towering over her. Various paths led to different sections of the garden, including a koi pond covered in water lilies, an orchid section, and two waterfalls. Two-tiered Onomea Falls, the more impressive of the two, was a lovely as can be, and despite the paved pathway we felt as if we had stumbled across it by happenstance, in a completely natural habitat, and not as part of a planned tourist site. The sound of the water shut out all other noise, and created a completely intimate atmosphere so we could actually pause there for about 10 minutes undisturbed to appreciate the solitary beauty. Eventually, of course, other folks came through, so we gave up our bench and moved on to the next bit. All of the paths ultimately end with a loop that runs along the ocean’s edge, where we lingered again to watch the waves crash on the rocks to the left, right, and beneath us. I can’t recommend the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Gardens highly enough, and from what our host would tell us later that night, it’s head and shoulders above the Royal Botanical Gardens. Admission: $15 per person.
After that rather fabulous interlude we found ourselves driving north again, this time definitely keeping an eye out for Akaka Falls. They’re several minutes’ drive off the main hightway, on a road that steadily climbs in elevation to the point where you think you might be seeing the TOP of the falls, not the bottom. At 400 feet in height, they were certainly impressive, majestic even. But with the crowds of folks who were trying to get a good camera angle swarming around, we couldn’t help feeling a burst of nostalgia for the gentle Onomea Falls we’d just left behind.
Too hungry to drive to Honoka’a for our next meal, we ate lunch right in Honomu at a little place called Lisa’s Café. I’m not sure if we were the hungriest we’d been on that trip, or if the food really was that good, or perhaps a bit of both. We had a teriyaki burger and a kielbasa hotdog and shared a soda for $15 and it all tasted outstanding and disappeared in about negative two seconds. After lunch we walked up and down the little street at the various shops, stopped for ice cream (yum—coconut macadamia!), and hit the road again, pulling off the highway to look more closely at anything that caught our eye. In retrospect, I would have liked more time to explore more of these tiny towns and settlements, so I suppose I’ll have to save that for a future trip.
WAIANUHEA – Normally I wouldn’t have chosen to spend just one night anyplace on a trip like this, but this B&B caught my eye from the first time I saw its website. I knew it was too far away to be a good homebase to explore Hilo and VNP, but I also knew that I wouldn’t be happy unless I stayed there! I’m happy to say that it surpassed every expectation I had. For a little background, I booked a room there earlier in the spring and was only able to get my third room choice (out of four). Not long after, the owner emailed me and asked if I would be willing to book the smallest room at a discount, as she had a couple who wanted to book our room for a week’s stay. Well, I understand that. It would be inconvenient for the other couple to change rooms mid-stay. And yet, after consideration I politely declined – after all, we didn’t get our first choice for a room, either. Usually I’m a bit of a doormat, so I’m still slightly surprised that I refused. Anyway, the owner then wrote back and offered to upgrade us to the suite for no extra charge, which I then accepted, feeling slightly guilty about.
So, we check in and the ever-affable Bruce shows us around, telling us all about how the B&B is off the grid (cool! A place that really is as green as it purports to be!). Our jaws almost dropped when he opened the gate to our private courtyard and up the steps into Kauna Akea. I really couldn’t believe our good fortune, as the place was gorgeous. King-sized sleighbed, sizeable bathroom with a great tub for soaking, and a large living room, richly furnished with sofa and chairs done in sumptuous fabrics and leather, flatscreen tv, tables, and even a fireplace in the corner. High ceilings and windows covering two walls added to the sense of spaciousness and diminished the line between indoor and outdoor living. As if that weren’t enough, Bruce popped back as we were unpacking to present us a complimentary full bottle of champagne for our anniversary. I must have mentioned it during my initial email correspondence—I think there was a place on the order form to fill out if you were celebrating a birthday, wedding, etc. Really, between the upgrade and the champagne (with chocolates! Did I mention the chocolates?), it was an embarrassment of riches.
So, with ever so slight a champagne buzz, we walked back to the main house for the wine and pu-pus. We met Carol, the owner, and mingled with the other guests over some nice wine, poke tuna, octopus, some kind of sushi roll, cheese, crackers, and fresh veggies. I sampled it all, though I’m not a fan of sushi, octopus, or poke, and much to my surprise, I really enjoyed the octopus. Believe me when I saw that that’s something not often heard out of mouth!
The rest of the evening we wandered around the grounds, which include a small nursery of fruit trees and even a lava tube (which we were asked not to go into), and a frog pond. There’s a whirlpool off one of the many levels of terraced garden with view down to the ocean, and in the mornings when the air is clear, there’s a great view of Mauna Kea. We captured her on film before she shyly started gathering clouds around herself like a shield. That night was the clearest night sky I ever recall seeing. We sat outside in our courtyard, polishing off the last of the champagne, lolling in our chaises longues clad in the bathrobes provided by the B&B. It was like magic, seeing all of those stars and even the occasional satellite. Isn’t it odd how you can feel utterly insignificant, and yet never more interconnected, in the face of such vast grandeur?
We didn’t really want to wake up the next morning, knowing that it was our first and last night in that fabulous place. But wouldn’t you know that breakfast at Waianuhea is worth getting up for? We started with Kona coffee, a minted fruit plate with crème fraiche, warm scones, and ending with a potato, pea, and curry frittata. Those particular savories seemed a bit peculiar to me first thing in the morning, so I was delighted to find that it was delicious and quite to my liking.
Other details: Waianuhea offers free wi-fi as well as a desk in the common area where folks can check in via the computer provided. They stock a small kitchenette with frozen entrees, sodas, juices, and snacks that you can take advantage of using the honor system and charge items to your room. There’s also a movie library that guests can borrow from, free of charge. This place is a sort of getaway perfection—all of the creature comforts one needs provided in a natural setting that is stunning and eco-sensitive. I would just about return to the Big Island just so I could stay there again. It really IS that good. The service, the ambience, the food, the setting, the seclusion—I don’t really see how any could be improved upon.
Coming up next: Kona Village Resort
Jul 21st, 2008, 06:06 PM
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Here's the next installment. I figure there will be one more after this one.
HONOKA’A TO SOUTH KOHALA
After our sumptuous breakfast we left Honokaa and headed north for an obligatory stop at Waipio Valley lookout. We had debated whether to head down into the valley as part of a tour but in the end opted not to. You’ve got to maintain a little mystery, right? So we’ll save it for our next trip, as I’m increasingly convinced, the further away we get from our trip, that we really will return one day. Well, Waipio Valley, at least what we could see from the lookout, was a real stunner. Intensely black sand beach, the roar of an unseen waterfall, riot of vegetation in myriad greens and various textures, with the constant counterpoint of the deep blues waves crashing into white foam along the black sand—this is indeed the quintessential Hawaii that most of us picture.
From there we backtracked until we were on the road to Waimea, which found us constantly marveling at the continuously changing landscape. When traffic conditions permitted, we stopped here and there to get out of the car and take pictures. I knew ahead of time that we would dine either at Merriman’s or Daniel Thiebault’s, and as the latter was closed for the holiday (July 4th), it made our decision quite easy. Eventually we found our way to Merriman’s for lunch, which was very good. Two passionberry iced teas, a chicken BLT (the T in particular was outstanding—local produce at its best!), and the short ribs house specialty came to around $30 plus tip. Our service was pleasant and cheerful, the dining room was bright and airy, and we found ourselves lingering over our iced tea, reminiscing over everything we had seen so far on our trip.
We had wanted to do a little shopping in Waimea before leaving, but many of the galleries and boutiques were closed for the holiday. Instead of heading straight to Kona Village Resort, I figured it would be better to get in a bit more exploring. I know my husband well enough to know that once we settled in to KVR, he would be more than a little reluctant to leave. In retrospect, I, too responded to the siren call of KVR and was perfectly happy to be ensconced there, so I’m glad I pressed on that afternoon to follow Rte 250 up to Hawi before heading down the North Kohala coast on Rte 270. The road was extremely curving and I felt it was unsafe to pull over, so we were both disappointed that there was only one lookout point where we could get out to walk around a bit. Once we started our descent and were surrounded by ranch country, our pace really slowed—as much to take in the scenery as anything. I can’t remember who wrote it, but I agree: Horses really do make the landscape more beautiful. Next time I’ll make my husband drive so that I don’t have to worry about keeping an eye on the road!
We got out of the car again at Havi to enjoy its funky vibe and then again after turning down access roads to get to the ocean. Much to our disappointment, Lapakahi State Historical Park was closed for the holiday, too. Though we both said we’d make an effort to return when it was open, neither one of us followed through on that prompt.
Around 3:30pm we finally arrived at KVR, which I confess was one of the main reasons we selected the Big Island over Kauai or any other island for that matter. My husband and I are simply not resort people—places with more than 25 rooms usually don’t make our shortlist for vacation, much less 125—but there was definitely something about this place that captured my imagination. I know most folks love ‘em, but quite frankly, the thought of staying at any of the other 350+ room resorts on the Kohala coast filled me with dismay.
(Aside: are there any boutique beach hotels/resorts on the island? Hawaii seems to have an abundance of resorts and B&Bs but not so much in between.)
At any rate, back to KVR. We booked their web special, which is a tremendous deal off of their rack rates and even their package deals—basically, we paid less than the price of a Garden hale and they would upgrade us to the best available, up to the Deluxe category. We ended up in Lava Samoan 4 (LS4), and we couldn’t have been more pleased, considering how crowded the resort was for the holiday weekend and knowing that we could have ended up back by the pond instead. Charming, breezy, and spacious, it was in great location vis a vis the restaurants and other facilities, plus we had a good ocean view. Would it have been nicer to stay in a Royal category hale on the beach? Certainly. But we were both tickled with LS4, and after having walked around to see most of the hale, we guessed that the Samoan style was built to catch breezes better than any other style because we had two large, screened sliding glass doors on either side of the hale. Combined with the ceiling fan we were always perfectly comfortable in the room and at night we even pulled all of the bedclothes up against the light chill.
To be continued…
HONOKA’A TO SOUTH KOHALA
After our sumptuous breakfast we left Honokaa and headed north for an obligatory stop at Waipio Valley lookout. We had debated whether to head down into the valley as part of a tour but in the end opted not to. You’ve got to maintain a little mystery, right? So we’ll save it for our next trip, as I’m increasingly convinced, the further away we get from our trip, that we really will return one day. Well, Waipio Valley, at least what we could see from the lookout, was a real stunner. Intensely black sand beach, the roar of an unseen waterfall, riot of vegetation in myriad greens and various textures, with the constant counterpoint of the deep blues waves crashing into white foam along the black sand—this is indeed the quintessential Hawaii that most of us picture.
From there we backtracked until we were on the road to Waimea, which found us constantly marveling at the continuously changing landscape. When traffic conditions permitted, we stopped here and there to get out of the car and take pictures. I knew ahead of time that we would dine either at Merriman’s or Daniel Thiebault’s, and as the latter was closed for the holiday (July 4th), it made our decision quite easy. Eventually we found our way to Merriman’s for lunch, which was very good. Two passionberry iced teas, a chicken BLT (the T in particular was outstanding—local produce at its best!), and the short ribs house specialty came to around $30 plus tip. Our service was pleasant and cheerful, the dining room was bright and airy, and we found ourselves lingering over our iced tea, reminiscing over everything we had seen so far on our trip.
We had wanted to do a little shopping in Waimea before leaving, but many of the galleries and boutiques were closed for the holiday. Instead of heading straight to Kona Village Resort, I figured it would be better to get in a bit more exploring. I know my husband well enough to know that once we settled in to KVR, he would be more than a little reluctant to leave. In retrospect, I, too responded to the siren call of KVR and was perfectly happy to be ensconced there, so I’m glad I pressed on that afternoon to follow Rte 250 up to Hawi before heading down the North Kohala coast on Rte 270. The road was extremely curving and I felt it was unsafe to pull over, so we were both disappointed that there was only one lookout point where we could get out to walk around a bit. Once we started our descent and were surrounded by ranch country, our pace really slowed—as much to take in the scenery as anything. I can’t remember who wrote it, but I agree: Horses really do make the landscape more beautiful. Next time I’ll make my husband drive so that I don’t have to worry about keeping an eye on the road!
We got out of the car again at Havi to enjoy its funky vibe and then again after turning down access roads to get to the ocean. Much to our disappointment, Lapakahi State Historical Park was closed for the holiday, too. Though we both said we’d make an effort to return when it was open, neither one of us followed through on that prompt.
Around 3:30pm we finally arrived at KVR, which I confess was one of the main reasons we selected the Big Island over Kauai or any other island for that matter. My husband and I are simply not resort people—places with more than 25 rooms usually don’t make our shortlist for vacation, much less 125—but there was definitely something about this place that captured my imagination. I know most folks love ‘em, but quite frankly, the thought of staying at any of the other 350+ room resorts on the Kohala coast filled me with dismay.
(Aside: are there any boutique beach hotels/resorts on the island? Hawaii seems to have an abundance of resorts and B&Bs but not so much in between.)
At any rate, back to KVR. We booked their web special, which is a tremendous deal off of their rack rates and even their package deals—basically, we paid less than the price of a Garden hale and they would upgrade us to the best available, up to the Deluxe category. We ended up in Lava Samoan 4 (LS4), and we couldn’t have been more pleased, considering how crowded the resort was for the holiday weekend and knowing that we could have ended up back by the pond instead. Charming, breezy, and spacious, it was in great location vis a vis the restaurants and other facilities, plus we had a good ocean view. Would it have been nicer to stay in a Royal category hale on the beach? Certainly. But we were both tickled with LS4, and after having walked around to see most of the hale, we guessed that the Samoan style was built to catch breezes better than any other style because we had two large, screened sliding glass doors on either side of the hale. Combined with the ceiling fan we were always perfectly comfortable in the room and at night we even pulled all of the bedclothes up against the light chill.
To be continued…
Jul 22nd, 2008, 12:25 PM
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Ahhhhh.....I sat down with my healthy snack to read your TR (ok, so maybe an apple dumpling isn't all THAT healthy...)and I could feel the thrill of exploring Oahu and the BI through your eyes. Too often I go through Oahu reports too quickly as I find that particular island to be too "busy" for my taste. I confess that I loved reading everything you wrote and can't wait for you to finish and summarize the trip. I'm hoping you will say you created a lasting memory of HI. Sorry you missed Kauai (my favorite), but maybe there will be a next time...
Jul 22nd, 2008, 07:38 PM
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Knowing, an apple dumpling sounds pretty healthy to me. Hey, it's fruit! Yes, we definitely created lasting memories and maybe one day we'll return.
Here is a link to my photos so far. These were taken with a point and shoot Pentax camera with underwater capacity. My husband has the fancy camera and eventually I'll upload his pics that take advantage of his amazing zoom--they'll be great for the lava aerial tour, especially!
share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=1Abt2zhw3bsXnA
Here is a link to my photos so far. These were taken with a point and shoot Pentax camera with underwater capacity. My husband has the fancy camera and eventually I'll upload his pics that take advantage of his amazing zoom--they'll be great for the lava aerial tour, especially!
share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=1Abt2zhw3bsXnA
Jul 25th, 2008, 04:51 AM
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I'll get my final installment posted as soon as real life slows down enough to let me know, but in the meantime, here is the link to my husband's photos. His camera is a DSLR and the zoom let him get a really great shot of the lava as well as the sea turtles.
http://share.shutterfly.com/action/w...3bsXrw¬ag=1
http://share.shutterfly.com/action/w...3bsXrw¬ag=1
Jul 28th, 2008, 05:58 PM
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Hey Emily, Nice trip report as always! Loved the pictures. You have really mastered the art of self portraits 
. I am going to have to do that more. I always dislike asking people to take pics of us and more often than not, forget to do so. Looking forward to the rest of your report.
. I am going to have to do that more. I always dislike asking people to take pics of us and more often than not, forget to do so. Looking forward to the rest of your report.
Jul 30th, 2008, 08:12 AM
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Brenandg: So funny. I thought the same thing re: self portraits. I never thought about doing it until I saw her Guana Island pics. So I did it when we took our last trip. Well, I'm nowhere as good as her!
