Durango, Colorado travel advice
Jun 15th, 2001, 07:18 PM
#1
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Durango, Colorado travel advice
Our family (2 adults, 2 kids ages 12 and 9) are thinking about making the Durango, Colorado area a summer vacation destination. We'll be in Steamboat beforehand for a soccer tournament and thought we'd swing south afterwards and tour the area for 3-4 days. We've heard about the train but that's pretty much all we know about the area (other than general rants and raves from people who have been there). I'd like to hear some first hand accounts from people familiar with the area--lodging, sights to see, sights to miss, etc. Any advice is appreciated.
Jun 16th, 2001, 02:18 AM
#2
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It's a great place to vacation. The Narrow Gage Steam Train is fun and great scenery. Call ahead for reservations. While in the area, spend one full day at Mesa Verde Nat'l Park - about 30 miles west. Also, the drive from Durango to Silverton is Fantastic. Might try river rafting for a change of pace.
Jun 16th, 2001, 03:49 AM
#3
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Take the very scenic route - 550 over the mountains from Montrose to Durango. If you approach 550 on rt. 50 consider spending a couple of hours riding around the Black Canyons of the Gunnnison National Monument ( about 10 miles east of Montrose). When on rt 550 Consider a stop in Ouray to take a jeep tour into the mountains.There are a few interesting things to see in Ouray - Box Canyon for example. Be sure to take a full day to visit Mesa Verde National Park, 30 or so miles west of Durango. If the river is up tubing is a popular activity in Durango.
Jun 16th, 2001, 04:45 AM
#4
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Mesa Verde is indeed an interesting place to visit. It helps greatly if one arrives with some preknowledge of the Anasazi culture. That way your imagination can envisage what the place must have been like with an active native population and ponder the question "Why did they leave?"
Of the various cliff dwellings, Balcony House was to me the most fun to visit. When we were there, visitors were able to climb up and down replicas of the original ladders, crawl through openings in the walls, see how corn was ground with sandstone rocks, which is probably why the teeth of the original inhabitants show signs of abnormal wear -- they were eating grit with their grain.
Just south of Durango in Aztec there is a well preserved ruin known as Aztec National Monument. The name is of course a misnomer because the Aztecs had nothing to do with building the site.
But the original name has endured.
The million dollar highway from Durango all the way to Ouray is spectacular.
In Ouray it is possible to take a jeep ride over some of the mountain roads.
In years past it was possible to get a regular car over the road to Yankee Boy Basin in the vicinity of the Camp Bird mine because the mine was active and the highway department maintained the road. I do not know if that is the case now because I have not tried to drive up there in a few years. The last time I went, the highway crews were redoing the cribbing to hold up part of the road because ore laden trucks from the mine were at the time driving over it. In the summer the basin itself is alive with wild flowers of many different varieties. High mountain peaks surround you on all sides thus making it a very spectacular place.
As for the train ride, I am in the minority when I say that I was bored with 80% of it. There is one spectacular place where the road bed was blasted out of the side of the cliff and, from the train window, one looks straight down at the Animas River. But most of the route is along the river, which means that your view of the mountains is from the bottom of a deep valley. For children who have never ridden a train, other than a subway, I can see where it might be fun. My was 10, almost 11, when we we rode it. He remembers it, but it did not make that great an impression.
Some people get a charge out of the fake gun fight and other recreated Western scenes when the train arrives in Silverton. But it somehow gives the impression that all people did in the minining towns was to shoot each other.
Nothing much is said about the mortality rates down in the mines. That is somehow not very glamorous.
If you drive the road over Coal Bank Pass and Molas Divide first, I think the train ride will seem less impressive because the view from the high spots is fantastic on a clear day.
If your vehicle is an SUV, some of the maintained unpaved roads can lead to some thrills. I suggest that you ask before setting out on any of them.
Road conditions are not always the best.
But if a bulldozer or scraper have recently worked the route, the roads are passable to high clearance vehicles.
I would not try them in a regular passenger car because you can drag bottom.
Have a good trip.
Of the various cliff dwellings, Balcony House was to me the most fun to visit. When we were there, visitors were able to climb up and down replicas of the original ladders, crawl through openings in the walls, see how corn was ground with sandstone rocks, which is probably why the teeth of the original inhabitants show signs of abnormal wear -- they were eating grit with their grain.
Just south of Durango in Aztec there is a well preserved ruin known as Aztec National Monument. The name is of course a misnomer because the Aztecs had nothing to do with building the site.
But the original name has endured.
The million dollar highway from Durango all the way to Ouray is spectacular.
In Ouray it is possible to take a jeep ride over some of the mountain roads.
In years past it was possible to get a regular car over the road to Yankee Boy Basin in the vicinity of the Camp Bird mine because the mine was active and the highway department maintained the road. I do not know if that is the case now because I have not tried to drive up there in a few years. The last time I went, the highway crews were redoing the cribbing to hold up part of the road because ore laden trucks from the mine were at the time driving over it. In the summer the basin itself is alive with wild flowers of many different varieties. High mountain peaks surround you on all sides thus making it a very spectacular place.
As for the train ride, I am in the minority when I say that I was bored with 80% of it. There is one spectacular place where the road bed was blasted out of the side of the cliff and, from the train window, one looks straight down at the Animas River. But most of the route is along the river, which means that your view of the mountains is from the bottom of a deep valley. For children who have never ridden a train, other than a subway, I can see where it might be fun. My was 10, almost 11, when we we rode it. He remembers it, but it did not make that great an impression.
Some people get a charge out of the fake gun fight and other recreated Western scenes when the train arrives in Silverton. But it somehow gives the impression that all people did in the minining towns was to shoot each other.
Nothing much is said about the mortality rates down in the mines. That is somehow not very glamorous.
If you drive the road over Coal Bank Pass and Molas Divide first, I think the train ride will seem less impressive because the view from the high spots is fantastic on a clear day.
If your vehicle is an SUV, some of the maintained unpaved roads can lead to some thrills. I suggest that you ask before setting out on any of them.
Road conditions are not always the best.
But if a bulldozer or scraper have recently worked the route, the roads are passable to high clearance vehicles.
I would not try them in a regular passenger car because you can drag bottom.
Have a good trip.
Jun 16th, 2001, 07:15 AM
#5
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I lived 30 miles from Durango for 8 years and I agree with all the advice already posted with a couple exceptions. The Durango-Silverton railroad trip is spectacular. I've ridden high-altitude trains in Switzerland and France that don't compare. If you don't have someone to pick you up in Silverton, do take the bus back to Durango. The train trip is too long to be an enjoyable round trip.
I wouldn't waste any time visiting Aztec Ruins. Definitely spend a day at Mesa Verde and visit Ouray. Most years you will experience gorgeous waterfalls on the drive to Ouray and in town.
I wouldn't waste any time visiting Aztec Ruins. Definitely spend a day at Mesa Verde and visit Ouray. Most years you will experience gorgeous waterfalls on the drive to Ouray and in town.
Jun 16th, 2001, 07:53 AM
#6
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Thanks to everyone who's responded so far--it sounds like an area well-worth visiting. I like the idea of taking the bus back from Silverton--do you have to buy bus tickets in advance and how do I find out bus schedules, etc.? We'd like to stay away from gun-fights, cookouts, etc. simply because we live in the west and have entertained OUR visitors with activities like this! Again, thanks to all--Fodorites haven't disappointed me yet.
Jun 17th, 2001, 08:13 PM
#8
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Hi, we'll be in Steamboat for the same tournament in July. Durango is great, but don't discount the Steamboat area. There is a lot of great places to see right around Steamboat, and within 2 hours of the city. Are you driving in from somewhere near Durango that would make you want to take that long drive?
Jun 17th, 2001, 08:26 PM
#10
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I must amend my statement about the Durango train trip a little bit. Today was father's day and my son and his wife came over for dinner. We all got to discussing places we had been. My son said something about Durango and taking his two boys on the train. I asked him what he recalled of that ride, which was a few years ago now because he was 11 at the time.
He said it was great fun. Although it was a while ago, his recall of it and mine are essentially the same, which to me means he remembers it amazingly well. In fact, he reminded me of a few details I had forgotten.
I guess that means he was alert and paying attention all the way to have such vivid and accurate memories.
So I am the class grump about that ride.
I do think that doing it round trip is a bit much as do several others.
He said it was great fun. Although it was a while ago, his recall of it and mine are essentially the same, which to me means he remembers it amazingly well. In fact, he reminded me of a few details I had forgotten.
I guess that means he was alert and paying attention all the way to have such vivid and accurate memories.
So I am the class grump about that ride.
I do think that doing it round trip is a bit much as do several others.
Jun 18th, 2001, 06:16 AM
#12
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Actually, we're coming to Steamboat from western Nebraska (5 hours to Steamboat) so we don't live anywhere near Durango. To be quite honest, Durango is my husband's idea--the kids and I wanted to go to San Diego for vacation!! We haven't been to Steamboat in years (since the 12 year old was a baby) and would love some ideas for that area. We're staying at the Sheraton while in Steamboat. We usually take a big road trip vacation in the summer (Washington D.C. was our last one) and we don't mind driving--I just don't want to use up our entire vacation doing it. I appreciate all of your advice--I love this board!
Jun 18th, 2001, 06:37 AM
#13
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I vote for a one way train ride too.
you will want to be on the right side
going up to Silverton or on the left
side from Silverton to Durango. We
took the train from Silverton to Durango, overnighted in Durango and did
the return the next am. It was long.
You could take Hwy 62 off 550 at Ridgway
thru the Dallas Divide then take 145 towards Telluride, and then stay on 145 south to Cortez. Mesa Verde is 10mi from
Cortez.
If you have time, would also suggest
a 1/2 day trip to Black Canyon of the
Gunnison National Monument..it is just
east of Montrose.
If you need a place to stay between
Grand Junction and Durango...the
Holiday Inn Express would be my vote..
it is a few years old but is kept looking new..quite and clean. Includes
light breakfast (cereal,fruit,etc.)
you will want to be on the right side
going up to Silverton or on the left
side from Silverton to Durango. We
took the train from Silverton to Durango, overnighted in Durango and did
the return the next am. It was long.
You could take Hwy 62 off 550 at Ridgway
thru the Dallas Divide then take 145 towards Telluride, and then stay on 145 south to Cortez. Mesa Verde is 10mi from
Cortez.
If you have time, would also suggest
a 1/2 day trip to Black Canyon of the
Gunnison National Monument..it is just
east of Montrose.
If you need a place to stay between
Grand Junction and Durango...the
Holiday Inn Express would be my vote..
it is a few years old but is kept looking new..quite and clean. Includes
light breakfast (cereal,fruit,etc.)
