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Colorado road trip: oh, those beautiful aspens!

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Colorado road trip: oh, those beautiful aspens!

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Old Oct 8th, 2005 | 06:14 PM
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Colorado road trip: oh, those beautiful aspens!

Oh, you lucky Colorado-ians. I hope you realize what beautiful countryside you live in. From my own experiences, I know that it's easy to sometimes overlook the wonders of each of our areas when we live and work in them everyday. But having just returned from a two-week trip through parts of your state, I am so jealous of not only your awesome and colorful landscape, but the weather...oh, to have it a crisp 50 degrees on a beautiful September morning, well, that's just about heaven to me!

There are so many highlights of the circle tour. It's amazing how one area can be so full of "must sees".

Starting our drive from Austin, Texas, we made it to Durango after two long days in the car. Only comment about the drive is there are sure a lot of virtual ghost towns along the way. Where did all the people go anyway? Towns of yesteryear are literally abandoned. Couldn't even find a Dairy Queen to help keep me awake. Isn't this Texas after all?

In Durango, we boarded the Narrow Gauge Train (parlor car - what a treat to have mimosas and those real French croissants on board, plus all the coffee and soda we could put down!). The leaves were sure a pretty color, all gold and yellow. The parlor car was like the caboose, so we got to hang outside on the back balcony, which helped with the picture-taking.

(As an aside, the 12-car train was packed. Not one seat empty. Heeding the advice of this board, we had made our reservations many months ago. So much for being there in off season.)

In Silverton, the skies opened up. Out come the rain coats. You did bring yours, right dad? Oh well. Walk faster then. Now it's hailing - yikes - that stuff hurts when you're running! Had lunch at the Brown Bear - very busy place when the trains pull in. Good lunch too, even when the power went off. Had to add up the bill ourselves.

Just an hour left for shopping in Silverton before we boarded the train headed back to Durango. This time we got fruit and cheese, along with wine on board. Everyone gets one glass. Oh, but mom and dad don't drink wine. I'll have theirs. Don't want it to go to waste.

The scenery seems more beautiful on the way back down. The river, cliffs, steep drop-offs, and the beautiful colors make for a very enjoyable but exhausting day.

Next stop: Mesa Verde National Park.

kopp is offline  
Old Oct 8th, 2005 | 06:41 PM
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i miss living in colo so much!!
more please.
virginia is offline  
Old Oct 9th, 2005 | 04:39 AM
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You know; even the roads & trails look different when traveling in the opposite direction. Fall is such a wonderful time out here. Of course, the Colorado weather can be almost anything at any time of year. As we say, "if you don't like the weather now, just wait a few minutes"
Now let's hear more of your trip. Great stuff!!
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Old Oct 9th, 2005 | 08:57 AM
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Looking for some more on this snowy day in Colorado!
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Old Oct 9th, 2005 | 10:56 AM
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I lived in Colorado for over five years. Those mountains and lakes are beautiful and will remain in my mind and heart forever.

I can’t forget those incredible Grand Junction peaches either. Oh, how I miss them.
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Old Oct 9th, 2005 | 03:25 PM
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Virginia - I miss visiting Colorado already! Don't think I could ever leave if I lived there.

Hey, Larry, that's our saying here in Texas! No fair. But it's the truth. Amazing how it changes from hour to hour sometimes.

And Catbert - snow already? Is that a bad sign?

And yes, Simone - the peaches were incredible. Fruit stands everywhere. Delicious!
kopp is offline  
Old Oct 9th, 2005 | 03:26 PM
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On the road to the park...

About 10 miles outside the entrance to Mesa Verde, there’s this real live working elk ranch. Guess they raise ‘em, then eat ‘em, or something like that. Anyway, we had a real treat as the male elks were really strutting their stuff, if you know what I mean. The entrance had a sign “No bugling”. A strange sign, even to a Texan, as the last time I heard a bugle was at church camp as a teen…never did forgive those guys for that little trick either. Digressing…

Anyway, all of a sudden the elk chorus starts this what I’d call yelling at each other, like “Just try to take this gal away from me,” or “My horns are bigger’n yours.” Kind of a fun sight to watch, in a perverted sort of way I suppose.

Now onto Mesa Verde National Park. Headed straight to the visitor center where we booked a late tour of Cliff Palace. Ranger Bennett clued us in as to where the Indians came from, how long they were there, and how in heaven’s name they managed to build these dwellings underneath a bunch of cliffs. Pretty amazing to walk down on the nice trails those Indians left for us. Wait a minute! Ranger Bennett says they scaled the cliffs. See the toe and finger holes? You want me to do what? I don’t think so. And so much for the nice trails. We had to climb up this really steep and long ladder back to the mesa top. This was a real stretch as anything over 3 steps is really long for me. I lost count after 20, huffing and puffing, as I gingerly placed one foot in front of the other, not looking down, practically kissing the ground at the end.

After more hiking and many Kodak moments, we headed back to our room at the Far View Lodge (another Fodor’s recommendation). We’d booked a Kiva room, which gave us an upgraded view, very comfy king bed, Southwest style furniture, great balcony with view to the mesa, bathrobes, and coffee service. What else could a girl need?

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Old Oct 10th, 2005 | 05:56 AM
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This is getting too long. Time to condense.

But first, a short report on dinner in The Metate Room (excellent recommendation from this board). The views encompass the entire region, and the food is – in a word, outstanding. Finally did figure out where those ranch elk ended up, by the way -- on the menu, elk fillet with this magical delicious sauce. Yum-yum! We all tasted each other’s dinners (elk, buffalo, lamb, Rocky Mountain trout) and all were cooked to perfection!

Morning comes. Quick, put on the robe, grab the camera – the sun is slowly rising on the mesa. I thought we had huge sunrises here in Texas. This view takes up the whole sky. Can’t get enough of the fresh, cool air – must be 40 outside, but OMG, what a view!

Next: Color, glorious color!


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Old Oct 10th, 2005 | 09:27 AM
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Please don't feel the need to condense. I'm enjoying the expanded version. 2 feet of snow in Summit County this morning.
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Old Oct 10th, 2005 | 10:04 AM
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Even the snow is different in Colorado. It is light and fluffy. I bet the roads are being cleared as we speak.

I agree, no need to condense. I am also enjoying your report.
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Old Oct 10th, 2005 | 02:54 PM
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Unbelievable!
Breathtaking!
Mind-boggling!
Stunning!

I had been told before leaving that this was looking to be one of the best years ever in Colorado for fall color. So we stuck to the “scenic byways” on our map, and were blown away by the beauty. Good thing we had our handy-dandy umbrella chairs with us. More than once we just had to stop by the roadways and drink in all the splendor: gold, bronze, yellow; yes, even some orange and red.

From Mesa Verde to Telluride to Ouray and finally Glenwood Springs, this Colorado countryside is filled with color. And those deep canyons, with their reddish-brown hue and steep formations – awesome! (Speaking of that reddish-brown hue, we’re kind of partial to that color ‘cept we call it burnt orange – Hook ‘em! Whoops, keep on task…

We especially loved Hwy. 141 on the way to Grand Junction (sort of a detour to see some family property). Don’t know a name for that stretch, but it should be called Colorado Heaven. Nothing like it anywhere! And then there’s the famous Hwy. 550 from Ouray to Silverton – oh, boy. Get out the chairs again… and again… and again. Poor Dad. Just about the time he’d get his seat belt fastened, we were getting out again.

Still to come…4-wheeling and bubble chairs!

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Old Oct 10th, 2005 | 03:19 PM
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kopp, thanks for a great trip report.

IF I ever get married again (highly unlikely) I want to have a small (tiny) ceremony in the middle of an aspen grove in Colorado. I've seen the quaking leaves when they are green - but never in the fall when they are gold. To me, it would be pretty close to heaven!

Maybe I'll check out your discovered byway.
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Old Oct 11th, 2005 | 07:59 AM
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A trip to Ouray would not be complete without a day trip in an open jeep. Okay, so it’s a little cool and breezy, cramped and bumpy. (I’m a visual person: think shaking a can of sardines after an hour in the freezer.) Nothing better to get the heart beating and the lungs working overtime, especially up at 13,000 feet.

So off we go from Ouray, headed to Silverton. First we ride that picturesque Hwy. 550 again, with the Kodak rest stops along the way. Being a bit cloudy today makes the scenery even more spectacular. The honest-to-goodness jeep trails start in Silverton, where we rock and roll for the next several hours, hairpin turn after hairpin turn, hubby having jeep in lowest gear while slowly climbing and climbing. “I think I can, I think I can.” At this point, Grandma’s eyes are closed shut, praying constantly in the back. Passing old abandoned mining towns along the way, way up above the trees, the scenery becomes stark, desolate, and very rocky. The air is thin, as 80-year-old Grandpa struggles to reach the sign proclaiming he’s made it to over 13,000 feet, as proud as a peacock when that picture gets taken!

And those boulders from the cliffs along the road back to Ouray, don’t you always wonder what would happen if one actually fell on your car? You guessed it. Kerplank, kerplunk…scared the you-know-what out of us as one the size of a cantaloupe dented our vehicle with two bangs. Quite a scare, considering there was nothing but cliff with no railing. Fortunately, calmness prevailed and we continued on, hearts racing but nonetheless worse for wear.

If you’re in Ouray looking for a good place to dine, try the Outlaw. Yep, it’s a cowboy place, full of John Wayne Dined Here photos and a trophy wall. The fillet in a cognac-pepper sauce was outstanding, as was the Mile High Decadence for dessert.

Several days later we stop in Glenwood Springs. Those of you familiar with the hot springs pool will know what bubble chairs are. This is the best way to relax after a long day of driving and hiking. Touted as the world’s largest, the hot springs at night is the place to be. At 104 degrees, you practically melt in the luxury of it all. The bubble chairs are like a personal jacuzzi, just what Grandma needed to soothe her aches, pains, and arthritis. Just what we needed before making the trek back to Austin.

Thanks for a great trip, Colorado. You’ve got a mighty fine state to explore!

Happy travels, y’all!

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Old Oct 12th, 2005 | 10:58 AM
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We still have lots more to show you, kopp. You'll have to come back again! Thanks for your fun report. I really enjoyed it.
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Old Oct 12th, 2005 | 11:52 AM
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Thanks for a great report. You brought back some lovely memories. Thanks again.
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