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Old May 23rd, 2005, 04:30 AM
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Chicago trip report

As the perpetrator of the great Chicago vs Dallas debate on this board a few months back I thought the least I could do was report back on my trip to Chicago from 7th to 14th May

Background info - I'm an English 32 year old male from London so forgive me if some of my expressions may not make sense in American English

Main sites seen - Navy Pier, Art Institute, Shedd Aquarium, Architectural river tour, Wrigley Field, Lincoln Park Zoo, Chicago Historical Society

Restaurants visited - Cafe Luciano (Italian), Pizzeria Uno (Chicago Deep Pan), Frontera (Mexican), McCormick and Schmick (Seafood), Greek Islands (Greek), Boston Blackies (American), Heaven on Seven (Cajun), ESPN Zone (American)

Hotel - Best Western Inn of Chicago on E Ohio Street - This was chosen as the best value hotel on Expedia that was just off the Magnificent Mile and it certainly didn't disappoint. Although chain hotels may be anathema to some there is a certain reliability in knowing what you will get. I cannot fault the service of both the concierge and front desk. Even when I was originally put in a room with a connecting door with a screaming baby in the adjacent room they very kindly changed my room with the minimum of fuss and even upgraded me to the penthouse which was fantastic and very quiet. There is something to be said for requesting a room that does not have an adjoining door and also is on a high level to escape street noise if you're a light sleeper like me.

Overall impressions - Chicago seriously impressed me. Felt like the sophistication of New York but with mid-western friendliness.

Seeing the skyline loom up on you as you approach by El from O'Hare was a magical memory.

One of the greatest struggles was to build up enough hunger to enjoy the wonderful food temptations in the city.

I'll try and break down my itinerary on a daily basis in digestible bits
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Old May 23rd, 2005, 06:11 AM
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I'm quite anxious to see the rest of your report. Very interesting so far! Am looking forward to reading your impressions of the sites seen. So far, I'm guessing you don't regret your choice of Chicago over Dallas! (Sorry, but I couldn't resist!)
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Old May 23rd, 2005, 06:35 AM
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Glad you discovered Chicago - and that YOU"RE glad you discovered Chicago! Look forward to hearing more of your impressions.
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Old May 23rd, 2005, 06:35 AM
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CAPH52 - thanks for the feedback and no need for anxiety here's the next instalment! Yes I'm glad I chose Chicago although I'm sure Dallas is also a fine place maybe just less geared up for tourists from people's opinions here

Saturday 7th May

Flew LHR to ORD on American Airlines 777 "more room through coach" and just like paint it did what it said on the tin. There was noticeably more space than on Virgin Atlantic and United (the only other transatlantic carriers I have flown with). Seems a real tragedy they are abandoning this as it makes a real competitive advantage especially for those over 6 foot like me.

Thought the service was fine - food surprisingly good although hardly sold as such "d'ya want beef or chicken it's all the same". Only slight point of notice is the films (movies) seemed awfully out of date compared to Virgin. Big focus on the flight countdown with AA - got to say I found it slightly demoralising to learn that there's still 8 hours 25 minutes to go when the plane takes off but I guess it's helpful if you snooze off.

Caught the 4pm plane which means you fly during the day which is great for adjusting to the time difference in that you can get up a bit later in the UK to adjust more to US time.

Arrived in O'Hare fearing the worst with queues (lines) for immigration. Pleasantly surprised that the whole process only took 15 minutes or so. Even got a "have a nice vacation" which was memorable only for the institutionalised surliness of immigration officers worldwide.

Next task was navigating the El. Full credit to Chicago - it's a great system, cheap and simple to use and even the expected bone-shattering noise was muted compared to what I'm used to on the London underground. As I mentioned before the view of the skyline as you approach via the suburbs gave a tingle down your spine in making you realise you're in Chicago.

Arrived at Grand station to walk to my hotel and checked in. It was about 1am in the morning UK time but still thought it important to stay up as late as possible to adjust to the time difference so went to the nearby ESPN Zone to get a taste of Americana in watching baseball on the screens whilst munching my way through a burger.

Finally flaked out about 9pm Chicago time - excited about the rest of the trip
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Old May 23rd, 2005, 06:51 AM
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Sunday 8th May

Wonderful weather today in the 80s - just fabulous to see the sunlight reflected off all the buildings and justify all the T shirts I had brought along.

After a relatively healthy breakfast - raisin bran (what we call sultana bran back home) and yoghurt (I've told you about temptation figured the best way to combat this was by having a light breakfast!) I headed for Navy Pier like all the other tourists wondering where to start.

I'll be honest and say I wasn't really looking forward to going there I thought it was going to be the American equivalent of Brighton Pier in England - with cheap hot dog stalls and tacky amusements but was really pleasantly surprised. Yes there were the McFamilies but just a wide range of Chicago people enjoying the sunshine having a drink and a promenade and even the selection of restaurants seemed to be a bit more diverse than I thought. The end of the pier with it's wonderful view back on Chicago and also of people enjoying boats was really beautiful and the gentle Lake shore breeze wonderfully refreshing.

Had a Starbucks coffe there and was amused that you don't do any mugs if you want to "drink in" - guess you're not as fixed on crockery as we are in the UK

In the evening headed off to Cafe Luciano - a really wonderful Italian restaurant which I had seen recommended here. It was Mothers Day and most people seemed to be enjoying very late lunches there which was fun to be a passive participant of. I had one of their specialities which was called something like a "giambotta" - basically a giant portion of various grilled items including chicken, Italian sausage, peppers, onions etc. It was very good and enormously filling.
My cautious friend who had joined me on this trip had a mushroom risotto which he also enjoyed.
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Old May 23rd, 2005, 07:57 AM
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Monday 9th May

Not such a great day - cloudy with threats of rain so it seemed the ideal day to indulge in indoor activities. Namely the Art Institute and Shedd Aquarium. My friend rather liked the idea of taking the Chicago version of a hop-on, hop-off bus (the trolleybus) to also take in the Loop and see the Sears tower and this seemed a reasonable enough suggestion so headed off to one of the stops by Bloomingdales Home department. Except where was the sign showing where the bus would pick us up? After a few minutes looking around we decided the best idea was to head to the Water Tower where a man in a psychadelic T-shirt and an overbearingly friendly manner sold our tickets and we got on there.

The tour was informative but not exactly revelatory - most excitement seemed to be where Oprah Winfrey lives, where she eats and where she walks her dog (OK I made that last bit up) but it did give you the opportunity to take a few rushed photos as you passed all the attractions.

The Art Institute was fantastic - a wonderfully organised museum with the crowd pulling Impressionist paintings certainly living up to expectations and also a great opportunity to see some contemporary American paintings and design. Staff there were very helpful but quite a few items appeared to be in storage - guess it's an occupational in a museum that is being constantly refurbished.

Then rejoining the trolleybus it was on to the Shedd Aquarium. $25 seemed a lot to see a lot of fish but it certainly justified the fee for the variety of exhibits there even if you felt the entrance fee was partly supporting the salaries of rather over excitable young men trying to educate school trips. The real star of the Aquarium though is the oceanarium and the really different dolphin show in its concentration on how they train and work with the dolphins and their natural traits rather than getting them to jump up and hit beachballs as you sometimes see in safari parks. Certainly the Aquarium is an enjoyable place for all ages

In the evening we headed to Pizzeria Uno for deep dish pizza - there is no doubt that this subject seems to divide Chicagoland people as to which is the best but from a tourist's perspective there is something wonderfully down to earth about Pizzeria Uno even to the extent that they warn you from having more than a one person pizza (first time I've ever been to a restaurant and they encourage you to have less!) The pizza was excellent the dough wonderfully soft. You were also able to order and go off somewhere else for a drink which is a nice touch too. Certainly recommend this to others although be prepared for a queue (line) at any time!
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Old May 23rd, 2005, 08:10 AM
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Last entry for today

Tuesday 10th May

Glorious sunshine and temperatures in the 80s meant it was the perfect day for the Architectural river cruise.

So many people here say its a "must do" and I can only echo their comments. The experience of snaking between the skyscrapers on the Chicago river is moving enough but the quality of the "dosants" the tour guides really makes it such a special experience. It's a wonderful introduction to architecture for lay people with a focus on the art deco and international styles and some understanding of the history and changes to Chicago. All this and a need to put sunblock on made it a very special experience that I would recommend to anyone.

Celebrated in the evening by going to Greektown. It is just like being an extra in My Big Fat Greek Wedding. The Greek Islands restaurant we went to was excellent and there was enough cheesiness with the odd "whoopa" (spelling?) to keep the tourists happy but great cooking to keep the natives at peace too. My cautious friend wanted to keep to the fixed menu (for 2 people) which was fine but I would have loved to explore some of the more unusual delicacies. It is certainly worth escaping the Michigan Avenue area at least for one night to sample this.

If you can bear it I'll post again tomorrow
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Old May 23rd, 2005, 08:13 AM
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Londonengland,Glad to hear you enjoyed our city! Sounds like you got some great weather too! Post more tomorrow-I always enjoy hearing a "tourists" view of our home!
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Old May 23rd, 2005, 03:05 PM
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I enjoyed the trip report as well, as someone familiar with that dallas/chicago thread, I'm glad that you feel you made the right choice (of course I'm horribly biased as this is my hometown
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Old May 24th, 2005, 12:24 AM
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Thanks swalter and Vittrad for the encouragement - I've now reached Wednesday

Wednesday 11th May

Today was the big trip to Wrigley Field to watch the Cubs play the Mets. Unusually for a Brit I really enjoy baseball so it was something I was really looking forward to. After the 80 degree day the day before I thought it was going to be dream conditions to witness the game. Unfortunately I had not reckoned on the schizophrenic nature of Chicago weather - it plummeted to 40 degrees in 24 hours. Now I appreciate cranky weather coming from London but I'd never experienced such an extreme in one day - how all you Chicago people cope with this on a regular basis beats me - guess you have to prepare for all occasions!

So first things first I had to buy a jumper to ward off the cold and then it was on the El to Addison with a surprisingly large number of people. Bearing in mind this was a daygame - how did everyone get the time off? very impressed by the loyalty of the support!

We had a great view from right field of the pitch and were sheltered by the upper tier which I thought would be a good idea in case it started raining - however I didn't count on the bracing wind leaping off Lake Michigan which certainly cut through you. At least there were beer sellers around but then you had to be 35 to buy it (unless you had photo ID) First time I have been refused a drink in many a year - although to be fair at most British sporting events you can't even order alcohol at the ground. So I stuck to the lukewarm cocoa and bolted down a couple of hot dogs.

The game itself was fun if somewhat unremarkable. Mark Prior pitched 7 great innings and the Mets pitcher was equally stingy. After a couple of errors the game ended in a 3-3 tie. After the end of 9 innings, my friend was shivering and his lack of interest in baseball plus the cold meant it was an early exit for us despite the fact we missed the only home run hit by Derek Lee at the bottom of the 10th. Still despite all the above it was a memorable experience and a lesson in never taking the weather for granted!

After returning and warming up it was off to McCormick and Schmick - obviously an upmarket chain serving fantastic seafood. It was an appropriate day to start with a clam chowder and then go on to some fine fresh Alaskan Halibut. My friend stuck with salmon but enjoyed it. It was a lovely refined end to the day
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Old May 24th, 2005, 01:52 AM
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Thursday 12th May

Still a little on the coolish side but dry and bright so it was a chance to go up "Big John" or the John Hancock building - 3rd biggest building in Chicago but certainly a wonderful view. I was going to go to the Signature Lounge on the 95th floor and get a drink for the price of admission (as recommended here) but at 9.30am we were too early for this so stuck with the viewing floor and in a way we were glad we did. There were some nice placards giving brief details on Chicago's history in a chronological way and I particularly liked the open skydeck where you could walk out and get some idea of how much cooler it is at the top of the building and how you notice the wind. Obviously not a great place if you suffer from vertigo though!!

You can just about make out 4 states although I was straining to view Michigan and Wisconsin.

One of the best things though about the John Hancock building is that at the bottom you stumble into the Cheesecake Factory which I have to say is a must if you adore cheesecake - I had the Dutch Apple Caramel cheesecake and then on the next day went for a chocolate peanut butter fudge cup cheesecake - seriously to die for! I believe this is a chain and you can just queue up for the cheesecake like we did and would recommend as the normal menu looks pretty standard tourist fare.

The rest of the day was devoted to shopping - well with a weak dollar for us Brits it's crazy not to take advantage. No doubt shopping is Chicago's not so hidden bonus. You can shop till you drop and still come back for more. I focused on clothes and like a locust devoured the clothing rails of Lord and Taylor, Marshall Fields, Brooks Brothers, Eddie Bauer etc etc. My friend got particularly excited when he found some jeans for $25. Without wanting to destroy our clothing retail trade in the UK a pair of jeans will usually cost a minimum of $50. Something I guess many stateside will take for granted.

The evenings variation on an eating theme was Mexican and we headed to Frontera - again a very popular looking restaurant with a higher than average mix of locals you felt. Service was good but designed to get you to spend as much as possible I felt as they pointed excitedly at the expensive options. The food was fine but I can't say it was my most memorable meal - I'm sure it's pretty authentic but it just lacked some pizzazz in my honest opinion. Still the margeritas were fantastic!


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Old May 24th, 2005, 02:01 AM
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Friday 13th May

Off to Lincoln Park Zoo today which seemed particularly appropriate as the local news channels were getting very worried about some mystery disease that had killed two monkeys. What a gem this place is and how remarkable that they manage to keep it at free admission for the public. I rediscovered enthusiasm for learning more about animals from all the excited schoolchildren who were there at the same time. The layout was very good and a nice touch were the signs showing pictures of the animals to show you where to go. The penguins and lions were my favourites.

After a few photo opportunities looking back on the Chicago skyline we headed for the Chicago Historical Society and were really disappointed to learn they are renovating the whole building and only had a couple of exhibits open albeit with free admission. There was an interesting photo display by a photographer taking a lot of political pictures in the 60s which was interesting and then lots of photos of youths which was less so but I was still glad to pop in and see this really interesting place.

Our holiday (vacation) was sadly coming to an end and we tried Heaven on Seven a Cajun restaurant which didn't look very highbrow but ended up providing some great ribs and very good service. I even had some gumbo which was fun.

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Old May 24th, 2005, 02:11 AM
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Saturday 14th May

Our last day in Chicago and a genuine lump in our throats as despite some of my British cynicism I couldn't help but fall in love with the city. Such a variety of things to do and such an enjoyable aura about the place.

Had a relaxed lunch at Boston Blackies which claims to have the best burgers in Chicago and I certainly couldn't disagree - they were fantastic. My friend also enjoyed the fillet mignon steak and then it was time to head home.

O'Hare airport was fine but the shop and restaurant choice in Terminal 3 seemed to not be particularly inspired not that it bothered me I was full and shopped out.

Flight back was uneventful and despite being a useless nightflight airline sleeper I managed to grab 2 hours of what I would call dozing.

Some final thoughts

1. Chicago downtown is very walkable - apart from the odd aggressive beggar it is also very safe at both day and night (well at least from a 30something male standpoint)

2. The choice of food is exceptional - you almost can't go wrong!

3. Chicago is obviously a fun place to catch live music although as you can tell I didn't really catch much of this due to a fairly busy itinerary during the day

4. Forgot about Garrets popcorn on Michigan Avenue - tried the crispy caramel and it was delicious

5. How can Chicago people cope with all the ads on their radio and TV - it drove me mad

6. All in all a wonderful holiday
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Old May 24th, 2005, 05:06 AM
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Londonengland, thank you for the wonderful trip report. So very happy you had an enjoyable stay here.

And hope this isn't your sole trip to Chicago. There is so much to see and do here, especially during the summer when the festivals are in full swing. Please visit again - soon.
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Old May 24th, 2005, 05:09 AM
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I don't live in Chicago, but visit there quite often as I'm only 3 hours away. The traffic in the city keeps getting worse all the time. With this glowing report, traffic and parking will be even more problematic!!! (LOL)

I'm really glad you had such a lovely time. In all my visits, I've never done the architecture riverboat tour. I think it has just jumped to the top of my list of "must-do's" in Chicago on a lovely summer day.

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Old May 24th, 2005, 05:27 AM
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COME BACK AGAIN. THERE IS ALOT MORE TO SEE. I AM GLAD YOU ENJOYED OUR CITY. ACTUALLY I LOVED LONDON WHEN WE WERE THERE SOME YRS. AGO. HARRODS IS UNBELIEVABLE! BTW SOME YRS. BACK WE ACTUALLY HAD A 50 DEGREE CHANGE IN ONE! DAY. THERE ARE, AS YOU KNOW NO WEATHER GUARANTEES BUT IF YOU COME IN THE SIMMER FROM MID JUNE ON THEN THE WEATHER SHOULD BE BETTER, MORE CONSISTENT. CHEERS, LARRY
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Old May 24th, 2005, 05:27 AM
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I am glad you enjoyed Chicago. It is a great city, as is your home. I love London and have spend many enjoyable hours/days there exploring and absorbing. Thanks for the great report.
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Old May 24th, 2005, 06:21 AM
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Thanks for the kind words - yes I hope to come back one day to Chicago and perhaps summer would be a better bet but I think it's a city to enjoy whatever the weather
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Old May 24th, 2005, 08:07 AM
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Great itinerary and review londonengland. I hope people do a search and find this trip report for future use.

Yes, the weather in Chicago can swing wildly. Even in June and August I always pack some cool/cold weather clothing.
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Old May 24th, 2005, 02:30 PM
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"all the TV ads on Chicago TV..." - were you by chance watching WGN? This is a cable channel famous for its multiple advertisements.
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