Charleston Trip Report
#1
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 320
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Charleston Trip Report
Just spent a week in Charleston for pleasure (fifth wedding anniversary) combined with business (five-day software training class) and want to thank everyone who responded to my posting asking for restaurant suggestions. We had a wonderful time—even the business part was fun in the evenings! DH and I are considering moving to Charleston and toured some homes for sale while we were there, so it was fun to see the city from a fresh point of view.
HOTEL: We stayed at the French Quarter Inn for the second time and I have to say it remains one of my very favorite hotels in the country. We discovered this hotel in 2002 not long after our wedding when our contractor kicked us out of our house for a week while he renovated our baths and kitchen. The hotel is located just down the street from St. Phillip’s Church in the historic district and backs up to the City Market, so the location can’t be beat. The entrance is on a quiet side street, so it’s very private and out of the way of Market Street traffic. The rooms are large and as well or better appointed as any luxury hotel in the city (and we’ve stayed in both Charleston Place and the Planters Inn). Upon arrival, you are offered champagne and ladyfingers. They offer self-service complimentary coffee, tea, iced tea, lemonade, and candy all day in the lobby. From 5:00-7:00 pm, they have complimentary wine and cheese, and later in the evening offer fresh cookies and milk. Pralines and a weather forecast are left on top of cotton waffle weave robes at turndown.
Complimentary continental breakfast is served each morning from 6:30-10:00 am in the lobby - OR – you can complete the hangtag for your door each night and they will deliver whatever you like to your room each morning at an appointed half-hour interval you select. For example, each morning we had delivered toasted bagels with cream cheese, butter, and preserves, muffins, juice, coffee, and fresh fruit at no charge. Those of us who travel for a living know that the cost of this type of room service in most hotels would range from $18-36 or more, depending on the city. Before they deliver the breakfast, the server calls to say good morning and ensure you are awake and ready for the delivery, then they toast/warm the bagels and muffins, and bring them to your room. A very nice touch. They also deliver complimentary USA Today during the week and the Charleston Post and Courier on the weekend. In a special twist, they offer a “pillow menu” of seven different types of pillows from which you may choose. The first time we stayed here, we discovered buckwheat pillows and purchased our own and have used them ever since, but they also offer hypoallergenic, down, space foam, pre-shaped, etc. The service is lovely—polite and efficient, yet warm and personal as well. When we checked into our room, we had a bottle of champagne on ice and a note from the manager congratulating us on our anniversary. By the end of the week, I was actually sad to leave despite missing husband (he had gone home after the long weekend) and dogs. I used my AAA discount and paid $179 per night, but others say you can do even better depending on what time of year you go and using some discount hotel reservation systems.
RESTAURANTS: The worst meal we had was great—I’m convinced you could dine out for weeks and not run into a bad meal in Charleston, particularly with all the wonderful suggestions from other Fodor’s folks.
Hyman’s Seafood: I know, this is a popular tourist destination, but not without reason. The lines were already down the street at 6:00 pm Friday evening, so DH and I slipped into the bar (which was practically empty, oddly enough) and ordered from the full menu while we watched the LSU-Oklahoma game. Crab dip, perfectly boiled shrimp (not overcooked), broiled catfish po’ boy, and ice cold beer. All that was missing were the yummy boiled peanuts they bring you to munch on in the regular restaurant while you wait on your food. DH doesn’t like them, but he’s a Yankee and doesn’t know what’s good.
FIG: Definitely make reservations for this amazing restaurant or have drinks in the bar and put your name on the list. The menu features the freshest local and organic foods available in season. We dined on broiled triggerfish (a very light white fish) served on a bed of local fresh baby lima beans and corn, accompanied by braised cauliflower.
Peninsula Grill: Our second time dining here and while we think it’s fine, we don’t understand why it’s rated higher than several other fine dining establishments in the city that we feel do just as well or better. We had wreckfish, which was very good, and coconut cake for dessert. I would say this restaurant is good, but not great. It’s very dark, but not in a cozy way. We had invited guests and DH had slipped the server our credit card before they arrived so there wouldn’t be a question over the check. She forgot and plopped the check down in front of our guests and my husband had to remind her it was already taken care of. If they’d been busy, we could certainly understand, but she only had two tables. She apologized, but it wasn’t a very graceful end to a very, very expensive evening.
Laura Alberts: (Daniel Island) I want this restaurant to open in DC so I can go there for lunch every day (I went twice in five days). I believe they only serve breakfast and lunch, then offer carryout until 6:00 pm, so lots of folks stop by to get dinner to go. It’s also an adorable wine and gift store. The menu is wonderful, great dips and salads to start with, and entrees like pesto risotto with shrimp or chicken, to shrimp and grits, to Greek salad wraps with chicken or shrimp. Our favorite was a ham sandwich with fried green tomatoes and fresh mozzarella on ciabatta bread.
Magnolia’s: It had been several years since I’d dined at Magnolia’s and just as other Fodorites promised, it’s better than ever. We ordered fried green tomatoes on a bed of grits, to start, and for entrees had fried chicken and braised collard greens (and I think potatoes came with it too, but I was in a food coma by that time and can’t remember). Slap your mama good and huge portions.
High Cotton: This was the surprise sleeper of the week and is my new favorite Charleston restaurant. Some software classmates and I debated all day with the instructors where we should go and this restaurant kept coming up on everyone’s list. It’s on Meeting Street just down from Magnolia’s, across from SNOB, etc., but somehow I’ve missed it in previous trips. Our server recommended we split salads and we are glad we did, because they were huge—nice of the server to recommend it. I ordered the special beef tenderloin, which came on a bed of mashed potatoes and braised greens, and was topped with fried oysters. It was delectable. Others had the red fish and the pork chop, and all of us were thrilled with our selections. Our server stopped by before we finished our entrees to suggest we order one soufflé for the table to share (they take 20 minutes), so we ordered the praline soufflé. It was amazing, just like a cloud. I’ve soufflés many times before, but this one is the best I can ever remember. I can’t wait to go back.
Again, many thanks for all the wonderful suggestions that helped make my week there very memorable!
HOTEL: We stayed at the French Quarter Inn for the second time and I have to say it remains one of my very favorite hotels in the country. We discovered this hotel in 2002 not long after our wedding when our contractor kicked us out of our house for a week while he renovated our baths and kitchen. The hotel is located just down the street from St. Phillip’s Church in the historic district and backs up to the City Market, so the location can’t be beat. The entrance is on a quiet side street, so it’s very private and out of the way of Market Street traffic. The rooms are large and as well or better appointed as any luxury hotel in the city (and we’ve stayed in both Charleston Place and the Planters Inn). Upon arrival, you are offered champagne and ladyfingers. They offer self-service complimentary coffee, tea, iced tea, lemonade, and candy all day in the lobby. From 5:00-7:00 pm, they have complimentary wine and cheese, and later in the evening offer fresh cookies and milk. Pralines and a weather forecast are left on top of cotton waffle weave robes at turndown.
Complimentary continental breakfast is served each morning from 6:30-10:00 am in the lobby - OR – you can complete the hangtag for your door each night and they will deliver whatever you like to your room each morning at an appointed half-hour interval you select. For example, each morning we had delivered toasted bagels with cream cheese, butter, and preserves, muffins, juice, coffee, and fresh fruit at no charge. Those of us who travel for a living know that the cost of this type of room service in most hotels would range from $18-36 or more, depending on the city. Before they deliver the breakfast, the server calls to say good morning and ensure you are awake and ready for the delivery, then they toast/warm the bagels and muffins, and bring them to your room. A very nice touch. They also deliver complimentary USA Today during the week and the Charleston Post and Courier on the weekend. In a special twist, they offer a “pillow menu” of seven different types of pillows from which you may choose. The first time we stayed here, we discovered buckwheat pillows and purchased our own and have used them ever since, but they also offer hypoallergenic, down, space foam, pre-shaped, etc. The service is lovely—polite and efficient, yet warm and personal as well. When we checked into our room, we had a bottle of champagne on ice and a note from the manager congratulating us on our anniversary. By the end of the week, I was actually sad to leave despite missing husband (he had gone home after the long weekend) and dogs. I used my AAA discount and paid $179 per night, but others say you can do even better depending on what time of year you go and using some discount hotel reservation systems.
RESTAURANTS: The worst meal we had was great—I’m convinced you could dine out for weeks and not run into a bad meal in Charleston, particularly with all the wonderful suggestions from other Fodor’s folks.
Hyman’s Seafood: I know, this is a popular tourist destination, but not without reason. The lines were already down the street at 6:00 pm Friday evening, so DH and I slipped into the bar (which was practically empty, oddly enough) and ordered from the full menu while we watched the LSU-Oklahoma game. Crab dip, perfectly boiled shrimp (not overcooked), broiled catfish po’ boy, and ice cold beer. All that was missing were the yummy boiled peanuts they bring you to munch on in the regular restaurant while you wait on your food. DH doesn’t like them, but he’s a Yankee and doesn’t know what’s good.
FIG: Definitely make reservations for this amazing restaurant or have drinks in the bar and put your name on the list. The menu features the freshest local and organic foods available in season. We dined on broiled triggerfish (a very light white fish) served on a bed of local fresh baby lima beans and corn, accompanied by braised cauliflower.
Peninsula Grill: Our second time dining here and while we think it’s fine, we don’t understand why it’s rated higher than several other fine dining establishments in the city that we feel do just as well or better. We had wreckfish, which was very good, and coconut cake for dessert. I would say this restaurant is good, but not great. It’s very dark, but not in a cozy way. We had invited guests and DH had slipped the server our credit card before they arrived so there wouldn’t be a question over the check. She forgot and plopped the check down in front of our guests and my husband had to remind her it was already taken care of. If they’d been busy, we could certainly understand, but she only had two tables. She apologized, but it wasn’t a very graceful end to a very, very expensive evening.
Laura Alberts: (Daniel Island) I want this restaurant to open in DC so I can go there for lunch every day (I went twice in five days). I believe they only serve breakfast and lunch, then offer carryout until 6:00 pm, so lots of folks stop by to get dinner to go. It’s also an adorable wine and gift store. The menu is wonderful, great dips and salads to start with, and entrees like pesto risotto with shrimp or chicken, to shrimp and grits, to Greek salad wraps with chicken or shrimp. Our favorite was a ham sandwich with fried green tomatoes and fresh mozzarella on ciabatta bread.
Magnolia’s: It had been several years since I’d dined at Magnolia’s and just as other Fodorites promised, it’s better than ever. We ordered fried green tomatoes on a bed of grits, to start, and for entrees had fried chicken and braised collard greens (and I think potatoes came with it too, but I was in a food coma by that time and can’t remember). Slap your mama good and huge portions.
High Cotton: This was the surprise sleeper of the week and is my new favorite Charleston restaurant. Some software classmates and I debated all day with the instructors where we should go and this restaurant kept coming up on everyone’s list. It’s on Meeting Street just down from Magnolia’s, across from SNOB, etc., but somehow I’ve missed it in previous trips. Our server recommended we split salads and we are glad we did, because they were huge—nice of the server to recommend it. I ordered the special beef tenderloin, which came on a bed of mashed potatoes and braised greens, and was topped with fried oysters. It was delectable. Others had the red fish and the pork chop, and all of us were thrilled with our selections. Our server stopped by before we finished our entrees to suggest we order one soufflé for the table to share (they take 20 minutes), so we ordered the praline soufflé. It was amazing, just like a cloud. I’ve soufflés many times before, but this one is the best I can ever remember. I can’t wait to go back.
Again, many thanks for all the wonderful suggestions that helped make my week there very memorable!
#3
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Joined: Dec 2005
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Yes, we planned our next meal. Just kidding. Over the weekend, we looked at real estate, toured several art galleries (some wonderful artists have galleries there), went to see the Angel Oak, this amazing tree that is centuries old and has mutated into something amazing, and visited friends. During the week, I went to class all day, 9-5.
I agree, it sounds fattening, but nearly every menu offered vegetarian and lighter meals as well. Just know that portions are very large in most restaurants, so try to order half portions (some do) or split it or just take some home. Most offered such great appetizers, you could order a salad and appetizer and it would be a meal in many other cities.
My husband just reminded me I left off his favorite, which was Hominy Grill, and I am very sorry for that mistake because it was highly recommended and lived up to it's billing. I had the "big nasty biscuit" which wasn't as heart stopping as it sounds (a large biscuit with chicken and gravy over it). DH had a lowcountry omelet with shrimp gravy and sunflower toast, which was wonderful.
I agree, it sounds fattening, but nearly every menu offered vegetarian and lighter meals as well. Just know that portions are very large in most restaurants, so try to order half portions (some do) or split it or just take some home. Most offered such great appetizers, you could order a salad and appetizer and it would be a meal in many other cities.
My husband just reminded me I left off his favorite, which was Hominy Grill, and I am very sorry for that mistake because it was highly recommended and lived up to it's billing. I had the "big nasty biscuit" which wasn't as heart stopping as it sounds (a large biscuit with chicken and gravy over it). DH had a lowcountry omelet with shrimp gravy and sunflower toast, which was wonderful.
#5

Joined: Nov 2003
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Great report. I agree with you about Pennisula Grill - the service just doesn't live up to the rep or the prices. And there are too many other choices in CHS now. I'll leave the PG dining room to the expense account and less-informed-tourist crowd, but will still likely stop in the bar for a glass of champagne and that coconut cake.
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cmcfong
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Aug 29th, 2006 09:01 AM



