California Trip - Please HELP!!

Old Jul 20th, 2006 | 09:30 PM
  #41  
 
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**** Well, that was weird. I previewed my post, then made changes, posted, and the changes didn't take. Here's the complete version of the post:
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Here are some thoughts, based on ferrying visitors around whenever they come out to visit me:

You're not allowing enough time for SF, but you're probably most likely to have chances to visit it again in the future, so you can see things you missed later.

Blow off Half Moon Bay: you don't have time and it's not all that, plus hwy 1 is closed b/w HMB and SF/Daly City due to a landslide, and the traffic on rt 92 is awful. The drive down 1 from HBM to Santa Cruz is pretty (not as pretty as Big Sur though) but long.

You can do a day trip to Hearst Castle from Carmel and still hit Pt Lobos, Julia Pfeiffer Burns, and maybe Pfeiffer Beach. It's a long day, with an early start, but I've done it. In the summer Pt Lobos closing time is usually extended past the normal 5pm; call them to find out. BTW, if you're in Big Sur, don't miss the McWay Falls at Julia Pfeiffer Burns St Park. It's a must see.

Nepenthe has fabulous views, but is $$ and the food and service are just so-so. Stop there and get coffee at their cafe and take in the views, but go somewhere else for lunch. Or better yet buy a sandwich/picnic at the deli in Big Sur and eat it at Pfeiffer Beach or at the Julia Pfeiffer Burns Park overlook.

That said Hearst Castle is a question mark: it's beautiful up there and interesting, but it's not cheap, and the tour is very guided, and not that long.

Cambria is cutesy but not worth the extra time -- unless you wanted to stay down there and drive back the next day. There are some nice B&Bs there. Eat at the Sow's Ear.

On your way to Monterey/Carmel, if it's not rush hour in San Jose, the fast route is down 280 from SF to 85 south to 101 south, then down through Gilroy. The more scenic route is 280 -> 85 -> 17 S -> rt 1 S in Santa Cruz. That way you could stop in Santa Cruz on the way down, maybe try some surfing.

BTW heading south out of San Francisco, there is more of a reverse commute than a normal one. Traffic is worse heading south in the morning, especially on 101; take 280, it's more scenic anyway. Avoid the Bay Bridge if possible. The Golden Gate is usually not too bad.

Up north, Sonoma County is where it's at -- don't bother with Napa, it's too commercialized and busy. Stay in either Sonoma town or Healdsburg. I think the wineries are better in Healdsburg area (Russian River, Dry Creek Valley, Alexander Valley, Chalk Hill), but Sonoma has more history. They're both really nice little towns with great central plazas. Sonoma has the old historic mission and presidio area. Healdsburg probably has slightly better shops, and better wineries. That said, they're only about 30-40 minutes from each other. Consider renting some bikes and biking around the wine country in the morning; it's a great way to tour. Then go tasting in the afternoon.

Wineries: around Healdsburg, I like DeLoach, Hartford Family, Gary Farrell, Ridge, Chalk Hill, and Robert Young for execellent wines; however some of their locations aren't the best. If you want good wines but great locations/scenery/tasting rooms, try Everett Ridge, Hop Kiln, Roshambo, Stryker-Sonoma, Field Stone, and Lambert Bridge.

Mendocino is nice. It is more laid-back, granola-y, and small-townish than Carmel. It's also a torturous, curvy (although very pretty) hour+ drive from rt 101. The road goes through the Anderson valley, which has lots of smaller, lesser-known wineries. Ft Bragg up there isn't bad either. The coast up there is beautiful, but it's not as dramatic as Big Sur, no way. On the other hand, the entire coast (north and south) may all be totally fogged in anyway (often is in August). Best to have an inland backup plan just in case.

Given that you only have a week, I'm not sure that going to both Sonoma and Big Sur is a great idea. It's certainly doable, but it is a lot of driving (something we Californians do a lot of). You could do Sonoma area and then do Anderson Valley / Mendocino / Ft Bragg for your coastal experience. Or you could do Monterey / Carmel / Big Sur, and tack on the very good Paso Robles wine country, Cambria, Hearst Castle, Morro Bay, Pismo Beach and San Luis Obispo and return the fast route via hwy 101 (about 3.5 hours to SF). Probably depart Carmel, stay night in Cambria, then stay next night in SLO or Paso Robles. Either option might make for a more relaxing and less hectic trip.

The question comes down to: do you really want to do Big Sur, or Sonoma/Napa, or drive a lot and do both? I'd probably do Big Sur & Paso Robles, since the difference b/w PR and Sonoma wineries is not nearly as great as the difference b/w the north coast and Big Sur. But you get to make your own choice!

And don't forget the Marin Headlands -- when you visit the Golden Gate Bridge, make sure you drive up into the headlands and enjoy the views, and maybe take a hike. Marin also has great parks and sights too, like Pt Reyes.

Enjoy!
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Old Jul 21st, 2006 | 05:30 AM
  #42  
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Maybe I am underestimating driving times. My impression was the following:

SF to Carmel - 2.5 hours
Carmel to Big Sur - 40 min
Carmel to Sonoma - 3.5 - 4 hours

We will be in SF for 2.5 days also. First Sat and then following Fri evening and Sat. Carmel/Big Sur would be 2.5 days and Sonoma 3 days. I would like to do both Sonoma and Carmel but if you all think this is too much driving, we will rearrange. Thoughts?

Thanks again for all the great advice - I cannot wait for the trip!
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Old Jul 21st, 2006 | 05:33 AM
  #43  
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Oops forgot - also, there has been suggestions that southward traffic from SF to Carmel can be bad. Is this the case on a Sunday morning? Would Sat evening be any better? We are trying to spend weekends in SF and weekdays in Carmel and Sonoma based on feedback.
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Old Jul 21st, 2006 | 05:42 AM
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Carmel to Big Sur will take a lot longer if you are doing it right (stopping and gawking).

Naturally, the visit to Point Lobos should add a couple of hours to that part of the trip although it would be best to do that as part of your stay in the Carmel area.

You should also be aware that there are wineries in the Carmel Valley. There used to be a communal tasting room in the area for those wineries nearer Carmel but I can't recall exactly where. It was on the road into the valley nearer to Carmel.

If the weather is foggy or "iffy" the Monterey Aquarium is worth a visit if you've never been there.

Another interesting pastime is to rent a kayak at Moss Landing and paddle into the Elkhorn Slough. This is more for nature freaks & birders.

I love the Monterey area and can't resist going there whenever I visit my sister in Oakland. We tried to convince ourselves to go north from SF on our last trip but the beauty of Point Lobos & the Monterey area lured us south once again.

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Old Jul 21st, 2006 | 08:56 AM
  #45  
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So, now I am looking into lodging. I have found a great deal at the Lodge at Sonoma Renaissance ($179 a night) but not sure as we plan on hitting wineries in the Healdsburg area and this is a 45-60 min drive from what I understand. Would it be better to stay at the Healdsburg Inn (the rate is $300/night).

In Carmel, we are staying at Quail Lodge (well reviewed and warmer). In SF, how is the JW Marriott on Union Square?

Thanks!
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Old Jul 21st, 2006 | 08:58 AM
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Sunday morning traffic should be minimal. You should be able to make Carmel in 2.5 hours from SF. You probably won't slow down until you get close to Monterey.

Carmel to Big Sur will take longer than 40 minutes, because 1) you'll be stopping and looking and taking photos etc, and 2) so will everyone else. Rt 1 is a twisty two lane road with spectacular scenery, limited passing opportunities, and plenty of slow RVs. It will get really slow south of the town of Big Sur; that's where the coast gets really dramatic.

I'd probably allow 2 hours driving from Carmel to Julia Pfeiffer Burns park. More if you stop at Pfeiffer Beach or the town of Big Sur, or Big Sur State Park.

Pt Lobos is about 10-15 minutes from Carmel; it's basically in Carmel Highlands.

BTW, right before you get to Pt Lobos heading south, there's a great sign on the side of the road. It's one of those yellow diamond shaped signs with the curvy road symbol on it. Underneath it reads "Next 75 Miles". Cracks me up everytime I see it.

The other amusing Big Sur experience are all the bridges that are signposted as "historic" circa 1932! My British cousins got a huge laugh out of those.
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Old Jul 21st, 2006 | 09:05 AM
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JW Marriott is very nice. It is formerly the Pan Pacific and is a block or two off of Union Square.

SF to Carmel direct (using 101 and not CA-1) will take 2.5 - 3 hours. If you drive CA-1 it will take a couple of more hours.

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Old Jul 21st, 2006 | 09:07 AM
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I've stayed at the Sonoma Lodge Renaissance; it's very nice. My wife prefers the Sonoma Mission Inn because of the spa there. Both of those are not in the center of town; you'd have to drive to the plaza.

Other nice options (smaller) include the Cottage Inn and Spa in Sonoma and the Gaige House in Glen Ellen.

Healdsburg Inn on the Plaza is very nice, and very central (right on the Plaza!). $300/night sounds high, but it is the busy season. Consider also: Honor Mansion, Hotel Healdsburg (even more $$ probably), Madrona Manor, various B&Bs in town.

Don't know anything about the JW Marriott Union Square, but in my experience, JW Marriotts are all *very* nice, better than Westins or Renaissances, drifting towards the Ritz/St Regis range.

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Old Jul 21st, 2006 | 09:23 AM
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Thanks so much! With the deal we are getting at the Lodge at Sonoma we will probably stay there and drive to Healdsburg... unless someone chimes in with strong objectives!!

How much longer is the drive to Carmel Hwy 1 vs. Hwy 101?
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Old Jul 21st, 2006 | 09:34 AM
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2 - 3 hours longer.

As of right now you can't take CA-1 from SF. You have to take 101 South and cut over to CA-1 using 92 West. This is because of the mudslides this spring. I've heard that it will reopen in the next 6 weeks or so but not really sure.
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Old Jul 22nd, 2006 | 12:55 PM
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you could do 280 to 85 to 17 to rt 1 (in Santa Cruz), then on to Monterey. That gives you a bit of hwy 1 (but not the best part), but is almost as fast as taking 101 through Gilroy. It's a nice drive. But 101 south of San Jose gets pretty scenic too, especially the bit south of Gilroy.
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Old Jul 22nd, 2006 | 02:19 PM
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Plan your drives to/from Healdsburg at non-commute hours. There is significant
construction on Hwy 101 from the junction with Hwy 12, then north for the next 5 exits.

You may want to consider taking Hwy 12
east over Hwy 101 and into Sebastopol. A good map will show you the route through Forestville (and many delightful wineries)and then up along the West Side Rd. (and more delightful wineries) on your way up to Healdsburg. Consider dining at Willi's, Manzanita, Ravenous
or trek over to the Alexander Valley
for superb sandwich delights at the Jimtown Store.

Back in Sonoma, the restaurant at The Lodge, Carneros Bistro is Very Good.
(You can get The Lodge very reasonably on priceline, BTW). Other fine meals can be had at Meritage, Harvest Moon,
The Swiss Hotel and do not miss Cafe la Haye.

Wow, it's hot here, 102 ! That's wild for us !

R5
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Old Jul 24th, 2006 | 07:23 AM
  #53  
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For those that have stayed at the Lodge at Sonoma, how far is the Healdsburg area. Would it be better for us to stay in Santa Rosa - there is a Hilton there. We are using points so trying to stay at either Hilton or Marriott locations. Let me know!! Thanks.
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Old Jul 24th, 2006 | 09:29 AM
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The Lodge is 30-40 miles away from Healdsburg, while Santa Rosa is only 10-15 miles from the Healdsburg winery area. Downtown Sonoma proper is very scenic, but unfortunately you have to drive through some eyesore towns like Agua Caliente to visit the wineries north of town. Santa Rosa also has a nice downtown area and is more central to the primary Sonoma wine regions. Santa Rosa is also very close to Mark West/Porter Springs/Petrified Forest road (the name changes several times) which drops you straight into the northern end of Napa Valley without forcing you to suffer through all of the traffic of the southern ends of both valleys.
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Old Jul 24th, 2006 | 01:57 PM
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Has anyone stayed at the Hilton Santa Rosa - how is it? Maybe we will spend one night there and two nights at the Lodge at Sonoma...
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Old Jul 24th, 2006 | 05:19 PM
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Whew, what a lot of advice.

Healdsburg is not that far from Sonoma, only 45 miles. Easy to do a part or whole day trip. Stay at the place you chose in Sonoma for the whole time. It is new and very nice and no hotel in Santa Rosa or Healdsburg can compete. It has spacious spa and pool facilities. You will have to drive, or walk, a mile to get to the Sonoma Plaza, but no big deal.

I grew up in Sonoma and you will enjoy being around the beautiful Plaza, with the historic adobes from the Mexican days and the boutiques and restaurants.

There is also a 'wine exchange', I think it's called, which is interesting ... (informational, maybe?)in the old skating rink on the east side of the Plaza, which was also a grocery store Oops, too much nostalgia <grin>

One winery I would suggest is Buena Vista, which is east of town and is the vineyard where the Hungarian Count Agostin Harasthzy brought the first European wine grape cuttings to California. It is a small stone building under trees and the last time I was there it had an interpretive sign about the history. That might be a good introduction to the wineries in California and be a good contrast for the glitzy ones you are about to encounter <grin> It also sells a wine called "Green Hungarian". I am not sure whether it is a blend or whether a grape was actually named that.

On the Healdsburg day you might consider some Windsor wineries, which are right there. Also, take a turn into the town of Windsor. They took the absolutely dead downtown (the city had sprawled on the other side of the freeway with shopping centers) and completely restored it...a town green, a new library, mixed use businesses (shops below, apartments above). The architecture is copied from old photographs of the original downtown. It is charming. Windsor Vineyards headquarters building is on the west side of the Green.

I do hope you have dropped the idea of Cambria and Hearst Castle. That day's drive would not be fun, down and back, you would not have time to enjoy the coast and Big Sur, and anyway why go to Hearst Castle without a tour, and you need to have reservations for that. The coast needs more time. Hearst Castle is another trip, I think.

Lunch at Nepenthe is a good idea. Eat at the part of the restaurant at the top where the views are ... it's indoor/outdoor. If it should be too crowded to eat up there, at least walk up and look at the view.

To get to Carmel from San Francisco ... somebody mentioned coming through Santa Cruz. I live here and do not recommend that at this time because there is a lot of road work on Hwy 1 - they are adding merge lanes, and the traffic is horrendous. Besides, you do not get much coast between here and Monterey.

This is how I would do it. From San Francisco take 6th Street from Market, then exit that onto Hwy 280, which takes you across the city and down the peninsula. It is a beautiful drive. (Don't do 101) 280 has been called the "most beautiful freeway in the world".

At about Sunnyvale, exit onto Hwy. 85 and take that to where it joins Hwy 101 south of Gilroy. (the exit sign says Morgan Hill). And then at Prunedale take 156 into Monterey. This is all freeway, but not congested freeway .... pretty freeway for much of the way. Hwy 101 goes through a lot of industrial stuff and is often congested.

To sum...you do not want to try Cambria/Hearst Castle on this trip. Save Mendocino for another time..too far up and the coast you would be driving to there is slow...(but be sure to come back and do it, it is dramatic.) I think your last itinerary is a good one.

With just a week you can't cover the entire north of California <grin> and you want to be prepared for finding something wonderful to stop at and have your itinerary flexible enough to do that.

I hope you will report back after the trip and give us your experiences and advice....

And..much good luck on your new job.
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Old Jul 25th, 2006 | 04:46 AM
  #57  
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Thank you all. In a few days I will post the final itinerary for feedback. Your experiences and suggestions have been invaluable in planning this trip! Thank you so much!
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Old Jul 25th, 2006 | 09:48 PM
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Definitely make a choice between going South (Monterey) or North (Napa, Sonoma) of SF. If you go to Monterey, don't miss the aquarium. It is worth going just to see the jelly fish exhibits. It is unbelievable.

San Francisco is a great tourist town. There is so much to do and distances with the city are short. Renting a bike to ride across the Golden Gate bridge to Sausalito or Tiburon is well worth the effort. Actually, there isn't much effort as it is flat most of the way.

The weather has started to cool down so you should have perfect weather.

SF is a restaurant town. Regardless of your budget, there are pleny of great places to eat.

Have a great time!
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Old Jul 26th, 2006 | 08:41 AM
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If it is not too hot, rent bikes and ride over the Golden gate bridge into Sausalito, then take the ferry back. It is an incredible ride over the bridge! have lunch in town, bum aorund then enjoy the ferry ride back.
Linda
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Old Jul 31st, 2006 | 10:16 AM
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Separate question:

which would one recommend?

Park Hyatt Carmel
or
Hyatt Regency Monterey

I am traveling with 2 children (10&13) and my wife

Thanks,
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