Just spent a weekend with the girlfriend and visited Buffalo to see the Modigliani exhibit at the Albright-Knox gallery. I had visited the museum once in my early college years but had forgotten what a truly fine facility it is. The exhibit was quite comprehensive and informative with sculpture, paintings and drawings drawn from throughout Modigliani's tragically short career. It was bolstered by selected works from his contemporaries in the Montparnasse group including Picasso, Brancusi, Jean Arp and Matisse. Very nice show indeed with an excellent audio guide included int he $12.50 admission. We nosed around the regular collection on our way out and saw a small but nice assortment of photography, some surrealist paintings and some scultpure.

We were starting from and returning to Syracuse - hotels were sold out on Friday so we did a priceline stay at the Hyatt regency in Rochester. The very affable desk clerk upgraded me to a jacuzzi room as I had a Hyatt Gold card. This is hardly standard procedure for Priceline guests but the hotel was nearly empty that night and the clerk obviously understands the value of proactive customer service and good word of mouth. Very nice property and validated parking was only $3 per night! We had Friday dinner at Mamasan's, a Thai-Vietnamese place on University just off East Main Street. I ate here a few times many years ago - it was just as cute as I remembered and the food really tasty.

The GF booked us in the airport Holiday Inn in Buffalo for reasons unknown to me. It was okay not great but was very quiet despite the adjacency of the runways. Had lunch at the Anchor Bar, the place where Buffalo style chicken wings were invented. I like my wings hotter, but they were crispy and meaty as they should be - good meal and even with a salad it was a cheap and tasty lunch.

Elmwood Ave heading out from dowtown towards Buff State and the museum had loads of neat little shops, coffeehouses and cafes. We'll go beack in spring or summer and take a long walk to check them out. Sat night dinner was at Chef's restaurant on Seneca Ave. It's a local institution that serves moderately priced Italian food. Lots of families, good service and easy to carry on a conversation despite being crowded and busy. My GF had been before and on her recommednation we both had dandelion salad and spaghetti parmesan. The dandelion greens are bitter this late in the year (more bitter than normal) - order crumbly blue cheese with it and you'll have the right contrast. The spaghetti parm is exactly what it sounds like - a bowl of spaghetti with a huge gloppy coating of browned and bubbling mozzarella cheese on top. It's a heavy style of dish for my liking but was good and the red sauce is outstanding. Cappucino was mediocre but such is the case for most restaurants - this is a fact not a targeted criticism. All told, Chef's is worth a visit for some nice, simple Italian food that's moderately priced. reservations are a must on weekends - it was packed with people waiting.

We did not have time to see the Burchfield-Penney Art center at the college, nor were we able to see the Pierce Car Museum (the legendary Pierce-Arrow cars were built in BUffalo) or the waterfront area. many of the streets around Elmwood have some beautiful historic hoems and downtown has some unusual and charming old brick buildings.

I'll pass on Buffalo in the winter but contrary to what I might have expected (the trip was at her suggestion), it was a fun place for a weeknd visit and I wish we'd been able to stay a bit longer.

Thanks Owen for your trip report. As I live in Buffalo, I found it to an interesting read. Come back again, there is alot that you didn't see, and although Chef's is good, there are many outstanding restaurants in the area. Better hotels too.

Great report! Doesn't upstate NY have an undeservedly bad reputation?

Yes Cindy. Buffalo does have a bad rep..... I used to live outside of Buffalo (williamsville area)..34 yrs of my life.... and it gets a bad rap!!I love when people say.........."oh, what part of NY are you from? and then you say Buffalo......." and they cringe. saying " ohhhh... I thought u lived in the city!" (nYC)..Buffalo is a great place. Dont knock it until you try it....right! Great restaurants.. If y ou want a good brunch for Sunday...go to Samuel's Grande Manor.in Clarence.... and Pizza Plant,, and La Nova Pizza for wings and Pizza!!!

Another former Buffalonian who enjoyed reading a trip report on Buffalo. A few more and they will compare in number to Paris reports;-)
On your next visit, go in the summer and take in Art Park in Lewiston or theatre nearby at Niagara on the Lake.
Also when on Elmwood drop into Coles for a draft and a welsh rarebit.

Owen, it's always a pleasure to read your trip reports - thanks for posting!

I agree that central and western NY state get an undeserved bad rap I consider them to be "upstate NY" but most folks here in the NYC area think of the lowe Hudson Valley as upstate).

As a Syracuse native who knows that area well and has visted Rochester on many occassions, I didn't make assumptions about Buffalo but it did have more than I'd even expected and I really look forward to a return trip. Yes.... there are far better hotels in Buffalo but my new GF used Priceline without first asking me how best to use it - we got "stuck" with the Holiday Inn. I would also agree that there are likely far better restaurants than Chef's - we went because it was her choice. It was a fun, casual family type of place but I'll look for something a bit more eclectic and inventive on the next trip.

I suppose I'm dating myself here but my previous trip to Buffalo was to see Pink Floyd when they did the "Dark Side of the Moon" tour (now you all really know how old I am!).

The next time you're in Buffalo try the newly restored "Mansion" on Delaware Ave. I believe it's only about $150 a night and is a beautiful property. Also very close to downtown and many fine restaurants. If you return to Buffalo Owen, post again and the Buffalo Fodorites will help you with places to eat and places to go.

Owen, I'm glad you enjoyed Buffalo. You always find something positive to say about everywhere you visit!!! There are truly some beautiful historic homes (did you read the NY Times best seller "City of Light?) and some very significant and beautiful architectural gems downtown and around the city, including several Frank Lloyd Wright homes. When you return in the summer, pick up a walking guide of Buffalo and tour Allentown, the Delaware Avenue mansions, and downtown. Also, the Erie Basin Marina is a beautiful place to sit by the lake and people watch. I have to agree with the other posters - Chef's leaves a lot to desire as far as restaurants go. Check out www.buffalocvb.org/ for info. on neighborhoods, etc.

Thanks to all for the helpful feedback. Cheryl - you're absolutely right about Chef's but it was "okay". I have a new lady friend and it was our first trip together and she wanted to eat there, having visited the restaurant with friends on a previous business trip. She is self described as a person who "eats to live" rather than "lives to eat" (I fall in the latter category so it seems that I'd best start making the restaurant suggestions myself).

I appreciate the tip on "City of Light" - I'm an avid reader of non-fiction and will look into it. I did notice reference to the Frank Lloyd Wright homes and was sorry we lacked time to visit them. I planned to do a Chicago Architecture Foundation bus trip to Oak Park IL for the Wright Historic District and studio tour but ended up in Chicago on the wrong weekend. It seems likely that I'll be back in Buffalo sooner than Chicago - I'll focus on the architecture next time and really do appreciate all the great suggestions (if you ever plan to visit Syracuse give a holler and I'll tell you where to eat or not to eat!).

Owen, Re: "City of Light".....the story is fictional; however, the neighborhoods, homes, and (some) characters in the story are real. The book is excellent and I highly recommend it.