polly229

We will be in Yellowstone the first week of June. Since we have seen nothing of Montana except Gardiner and GNP, we thought we would take a day to drive from the Old Faithful area to Virginia City and Nevada City, then go to Bozeman for the night. Originally thought we'd take 191 back to W. Y'stone, then drive over to Canyon, where we're spending the next two nights. But I've been thinking since 89 is also marked on the map as a scenic road, maybe we could drive to Livingston and come back that way, through Mammoth. We wouldn't mind spend a couple of hours at Mammoth (despite disappointment in '08 at how much it had dried up since '03) and probably wouldn't get up there otherwise since we're planning to concentrate on other parts of the park. Does anyone have any comments or suggestions about the two roads. I assume if we have some snow, 191 would be the safer road. Other than that, is either decidedly more scenic than the other or is 89 extremely scary to drive? (Scarier than Rt. 12 from Torrey to Escalante, for instance.)

Dayle

Polly, a few years ago I did a trip that included both roads and a stay in Big Sky. I was actually very disappointed in Big Sky, not in the scenery up in the mountains at the resort (spectacular), but in the lack of a small ski town feel at Big Sky.

I also found the Paradise Valley to be heaven and much more scenic. I stayed there for over a week on a second trip and just loved it.

No, the road isn't scary at all. The canyon between the north end of the valley and Livingston is a windy two land, but flat along the Yellowstone River.

Highly recommend the Paradise Gateway B&B in the middle of the valley. I do not recommend Chico Hot Springs, where I left after 1 night! I hated the place...

Ask if you want further details on all above.

NorCal_Jo

Well - it depends on your goals/preferences. They are both beautiful roads that I've traveled many many times while living in Bozeman but very different. In June, I wouldn't worry about one being safer than the other - they both have pros/cons and your chance of snow that would cause bad road concerns is low. 191 is a narrow river canyon road and the 89 primarily goes through a wide river valley.

Route 191 - once you leave Bozeman and head through the Gallatin Gateway community you will head into the Gallatin River Canyon. 191 follows the Gallatin River as it cuts through the canyon. You will often be in the midst of trees/mountains rising up on both sides while the beautiful river rushes through the canyon. In some areas there is up to class IV rapids with lots of bends and you will get gorgeous views of the Gallatin River (complete with flyfisherman and river rafters). In other areas, you will open into small valleys/open meadows (such as at Big Sky) where other small streams join the Gallatin as it meanders through the meadows. In terms of vista's, think "River runs through it" as some of the scenes of that movie were filmed on the Gallatin which is a blue ribbon trout stream. If you have a love of mountain rivers and seeing it sparkle as it cuts through the canyon, this is the road for you. There are short hikes/walks sprinkled everywhere and of course you can drive up the road to Big Sky to see Lone Mountain. It is definitely not a ski town feel such as at Vail or other such resorts partly due to the geography of the village in meadow and the ski resort up the mountain combined with growing pains of big out of state money at nearby Yellowstone club. Personally I love Big Sky but I grew up skiing there so I'm biased

On the other hand, you have route 89 from Livingston that follows the much larger Yellowstone River as it flows through the beautiful Paradise valley. The vally is broad with ranches/farmland and on one side you see the Absaroka mountains rising up and on the other side you see the Gallatan/Hyalite range (which if you climbed over you would end up in the Gallatin valley). Think about wide open mountain vista's, big blue sky, and the Yellowstone flowing majestically through the midst. This will be more like the Madison river valley that you will go through to Virginia city (but much prettier in my personal opinion as not as dry). Then it will narrow as you head towards Gardiner and Yellowstone.
I can't say one is better than the other as everyone has a personal preference. I think the drive through 191 might be more unique as you will experience vista's such as Paradise valley in Madison valley and within Yellowstone. However, if you don't like being in a narrow canyon with lots of twists and bends, then I would chose 89.

PS If you go with route 191 in the am you must stop at the Blue Moon Bakery in the Big Sky meadow village for a "Benny" - breakfast bagel with ham/egg/cheese. Best bagel's ever!!

boom_boom

Just a personal preference, but I like 191 becasue you're close to the river, lots of twists and turns.

kureiff

As NorCal said, both roads are pretty. Both roads are safe.

I like Virginia City a lot, too. We try to catch a show at the Brewery Follies every summer (evenings only and some risque material). If you have time Lewis & Clark Caverns is also worth a stop; it will take two hours to tour the caverns.

Dayle, yes, no real town at Big Sky. I also grew up skiing there, and I do love it. But it is definitely disappointing for people who expect a ski town because there definitely isn't a town and there isn't much at the mountain village besides condos and a couple hotels.

With respect to Chico Hot Springs, we have friends who love it and friends who hate it. I can never quite decide whether I love it or hate it. I do love their restaurant; the food is fantastic. We usually go in the fall/winter, and I like sitting in the pool for an hour or two and drinking a beer while it snows. I hate their rooms, and even the cheap rooms in the main lodge feel overpriced to me when I can't get to sleep because it's too hot or the bed's too old or the sink is dripping. But I have to admit, we end up there for a weekend almost always once a year because of the food and the atmosphere around the place. Hate the rooms, though.

Dayle

NoCal Jo and kureiff,

I did think that Big Sky looked like a fantastic ski mountain. I learned and skied at Snowbird for 30 years, and all over the US and Canadian west, but missed Big Sky.

Definitely no real base village or pedestrian walking area. I live in Park City now and like having a central focus...

Chico Hot Springs was an overpriced dump! I had the Fisherman's building (dog with). It was over 90 degrees and no A/C!!!! Does their web site, confirmation, or brochure say there is no A/C? No, not any mention of this fact. As a single woman, I had to try and sleep with the ground level room windows wide open to try and cool the room off enough to sleep. Even the dog was too hot.

Plus the place was full of smokers. I think I was the only guest over 10 who wasn't smoking.

Restaurant was fabulous!

NorCal_Jo

Dayle and Kureiff- LOL - I think you're both right! Chico is a strange combination of awesome and dumpy. I remember the first time I went to a retreat there in college, I thought what's the big deal as the rooms in the main lodge were tiny and old with small doors. At the same time the restaurant is excellent even with the dated decor. It is kind of an old Montana institution and probably some of us Montana natives feel a sense of nostalgia about it despite all the faults. I think their website is deceiving and they paint a much more "posh" picture than reality especially with the "spa". Put it this way, I would never go to Chico for luxury. Nonetheless, it's one of few accomodations in a beautiful location and as long as expectations are set correctly, it can be a fun experience at a decent price point (I don't expect much for $100-$200 given the location and lack of competition!)

I can see the comparison with Big Sky to Park City which is a proper town with all the resorts clustered around. Big Sky just doesn't have the space for that given the terrain - you should have seen it 25 years ago (now I feel old) when I was a teenager. A sprinkling of small lodges with lunchroom/cafeterias, no lift lines, and pure skiing bliss. Those were the days!!!!

kureiff

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Yes, I very much agree, NorCal, about Chico I grew up in a small town near Bozeman and still live in MT. We get there pretty much once a year because it is fun and the food is great, and then in the middle of the night when we can't sleep because the rooms suck, we start wondering why we bothered. Their website is deceiving, I agree.

polly229

Thanks for the comments. Sounds like 191 is probably the prettier way to return to Y'stone. Depending on what else happens, we'll either get to Mammoth sometime another day or we won't, I guess. Will figure Chico for lunch but not to spend the night if we ever go that way. Will have enough overpriced lousy rooms in the park (5 this trip) and probably don't need any more to make us appreciate our own bed and shower when we get home. (You've got to have some reason to appreciate home or else you might never go back.)

starrs

I don't know if this helps in any way, but we really enjoyed our day in Livingston. We took a tour in one of the newly restored yellow jammers - which was THE way people used to arrive in Yellowstone via the train to Livingston. A bit of excitement was when they passed around the binder showing pictures of the restoration - and I realized that the guy on the tour with us was the restorer! Talk about small world! We also enjoyed hanging out in Montana for a few days. Liked stopping at the historic hotel and having lunch in Big Timber. We went to a minor league baseball game in Billings. Visited the small state park with petroglyphs and a short stop at the prairie dog park. Drove around the valley where The Horse Whisperer and A River Runs Through it was filmed and tried to guess which ranch was Tom Brokaw's. We enjoyed Yellowstone, the Grand Tetons and Glacier (again) but really enjoyed the lazy days hanging out in Montana. I have a chance to go back this summer and the big sky country is really calling to me. If you have an extra day or two, I highly recommend hanging out and relaxing a bit. It was the perfect break for us between Y/GT and Glacier.

NorCal_Jo

Kureiff - you are lucky to be living in MT! I moved to CA for work and now am living in the UK with one of the rainiest Aprils on record which is why I'm spending time on Fodors getting my vicarious MT fix. But, I have convinced my CA raised husband that we will move back to MT to retire and be close to all my family that is still there

Polly229 - have a great time! BTW, Bozeman is a nice town and has some good restaurants...

kureiff

Where did you live in MT, NorCal? I think the UK sounds pretty fun (minus the rain), and CA is beautiful, too. I do love living here. There are definite downsides (wages and I think we have the worst spring weather in the world), but the rest of it is pretty great.

NorCal_Jo

Kureiff - Bozeman (early years and college) and Billings (school years) but while living in Billings my parents had a place on the Gallatin (next to Rainbow Ranch) so we were up there all the time hiking, fishing, skiing, and snowmobiling... Where are you?

Loved it but had to leave to find a job after college so moved to San Francisco area and settled in for 15 years before the last 3 years here in the UK on a temporary assignment with the company my husband and I both work for. We used to get back to MT twice a year (Sweet Pea Festival) and at Christmas but not so easy anymore esp with kids (4 and 2).
UK is great EXCEPT for the weather especially coming from MT and CA with 300+ days of sun. Now we know why they have all these shows on TV here such as "Place in the Sun" where Brits are looking for holiday homes in Spain, Portugal, etc... But on those rare days with a sunny sky, it is green and gorgeous and everyone runs outdoors and promptly turn red like lobsters.... (us now included).

kureiff

Yes, it would be hard to make the trip very often from the UK with a 4 year old and 2 year old. And how wonderful to grow up playing on the Gallatin! I live in Great Falls now. It's not as 'sexy' as Bozeman or Missoula or Whitefish, which has kept home prices more steady here, and we're still close to all the recreational stuff. We're pretty happy here.