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Old Feb 12th, 2005 | 09:31 PM
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Boston Literary Touring Advice

I am planning a trip with my family (2 adults, 2 teens) to the east coast next summer. We were planning on spending a few days in Boston and then visiting some of the literary sites in the surrounding area -- Walden Pond, some authors homes, Salem... (My husband is an English teacher.)

I'd love some advice as which places you'd recommend and if there are any I haven't thought of. Also, would you recommend renting a car and doing day trips or leaving Boston and staying elsewhere for these visits. I'm thinking of a day in the Concord area. How much time is needed for Salem?

Thanks!
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Old Feb 13th, 2005 | 04:30 AM
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Walden Pond is about 30-40 minutes from Boston. There is a parking lot, but on a hot summer day it is overflowing with people parking there to use small public beach at the Pond. The rest of the surrounding area to the Pond is still relatively tranquil and years ago it was possible to park along the street and wander in - any of these places that I know of are now marked with no parking and towing signs, so if it is a nice day you will need to arrive early. Do not know of any public transportation that would get you there.

If you are into history you could combine this - still as a day trip - with a stop at Revolutionary War sites in Lexington and/or Concord.

Salem is also a day trip, although you could take train from Boston if you prefer. As far as how much time for Salem, it depends on what else you want to see other than houses. Peabody Essex Museum is wonderful and teens might be into all the witch stuff. A day would do it, unless you really want to go into depth at one of these places. You could spend a night or 2 along the North Shore of Boston and add a beach day to that part of the trip, depending on how long your entire trip would be.
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Old Feb 13th, 2005 | 06:10 AM
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I'd definitely spend a day in both Concord and Salem.

Be sure to visit the Louisa May Alcott house in Concord; it's still called Orchard House. The Wayside tours and RW Emerson house are supposed to be worthwhile, too, although I've not been in. Visit the Sleepy Hollow cemetary for some prestigous grave sites. There is a wonderful old inn downtown for lunch called the Colonial.

Hawthorne's House of Seven Gables in Salem is excellent, and has a beautiful view from the backyard. I also like the narration in the historical presentation at the Salem Witch Museum. (NOT the Witch Dungeon or the With House.) The Witch House is pretty dull; just a historical home of some long-forgotten governor. You'll see plenty of that at the other sites. I agree that the Peabody Essex Museum is worth a stop, but it doesn't have much to do with literature. The Grapevine or the Hawthorne Hotel would be good lunch stops.

Or, if you have a car, you could lunch/dinner on traditional fried seafood in Essex. Lots of choices!

If you do have a car, I recommend a drive to Gloucester if only to see the Hammond Castle Museum. Former home of an eccentric inventor, the pipe organ, art, and views are the draw here. Really unique.

If you decide to leave Boston for these day trips, you could base yourself on Rt 128 between Burlington and Peabody; it's about half way between either Salem and Concord.

Good Luck with your plans. Have a great trip!


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Old Feb 13th, 2005 | 07:23 AM
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Hi Kathryn -

Maybe you would like to visit Lowell to see Kerouac's stomping grounds. Many of the places he wrote about are still very recognizable. As with Salem, you could do this trip by taking a train from North Station. I also recommend Orchard House and the Minuteman Visitor's Center. Longfellow's Wayside Inn is in Sudbury and still operational. Across the street is a beautiful place for a picnic (you would need a car for this particular trip also).
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Old Feb 13th, 2005 | 01:36 PM
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These are great suggestions - thank you. Anybody else?
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Old Feb 13th, 2005 | 10:35 PM
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Definitely spend a day in Concord. The Orchard House (Louisa May Alcott's home) has already been recommended, and I heartily agree. The Emerson house has tours Thursday - Sundays. The Wayside, home for a time to both Hawthorne and Margaret Sidney (of the Five Little Peppers fame), owned by the Minuteman National Historic Park and open mid- April through October, has tours every day except Wednesday. All three of these historic houses are within close proximity, so you can park once and walk to all three. The Concord Museum is also very close by. The Old Manse, home of Hawthorne and his bride Sophia when they were were first married (subject of "Mosses from an Old Manse") is about a mile from these, and has tours every day. It's right next to The Old North Bridge, site of the first battle of the American Revolution, which is also interesting to visit. Sleepy Hollow Cemetery has "Authors Ridge", where several of the famous local authors are buried close to one another.

The commuter rail line goes from Boston's North Station to Concord Center, so it is possible to visit Concord without a car, as long as you don't mind doing a lot of walking over 3 or 4 miles to see all of the sites.

Walden Pond is about a mile or slightly more from the center of town, so you could walk there if you were so inclined- parking is difficult there in the summer, especially on weekends, and kind of expensive, I think (maybe $10? not sure). It's a pleasant walk around the pond, which takes about 30 - 45 minutes - you can visit the site of Thoreau's original cabin, and a replica next to the parking lot - but the fencing they've put up to control erosion on the trails does detract quite a bit from the experience (a sad but necessary measure).

Your English teacher husband will probably love Concord - I remember one of my high school English teachers in Kentucky describing Concord to me, and thinking how much I'd love to visit it someday - never dreaming that I would end up living and raising my children here! I love it, and feel that it is a very special place.

You would probably enjoy eating dinner at Lomgfellow's Wayside Inn in Sudbury - they claim to be the oldest continuously operating inn in the U.S., and it is the settimg for Longfellow's"Tales of a Wayside Inn". We like to go there for special occassions - the food is quite good (request one of the older. historic rooms if available). They have some of the original rooms and furnishings on display. If you get there before dark, you can see the picturesque grist mill and waterfall, and the "Mary's schoolhouse", supposedly where Mary and her lamb of nursury rhyme fame went to school (I take this with a big grain of salt).

In Cambridge, you can tour Longfellow's home, not far fron Harvard Square - I've never done that, it's on my list to do someday.

The House of the Seven Gables in Salem is quite interesting, I think you'll enjoy that - especially the secret staircase!

As I said, you could do a nice day trip to Concord, but if you wanted to come and spend a couple of days, I've heard that the Colonial Inn is a nice place to stay. You could rent a canoe from the South Bridge Boat House and spend a couple of hours on the river (Thoreau wrote quite a lot about that) - your teens might enjoy that. The Liberty Ride is a trolley that runs between various sites in Lexington and Concord, where you can get off and on at your convenience (I don't know how often it runs) - that might be worth checking out.

Have a wonderful time, and let me know if you have more specific questions.
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Old Feb 14th, 2005 | 10:11 PM
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Thank you for your wonderful help. I can't imagine planning a trip without Fodorites! I am getting very excited about our visit. It sounds like we'll need a full day in Concord and we'll visit Salem as well.

Thanks again!
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Old Feb 15th, 2005 | 09:48 AM
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Sara, what a great description of your wonderful Concord! Definitely worth saving for prospective visitors. I was there again last spring after an absence of quite a few years. I think, KathrynT, that you should plan AT LEAST a day there if not more.

There is quite a collection of relatively inexpensive chain hotels at the intersection of two major interstates in nearby Waltham that your family might consider for your Concord visit, or even for the drive around the edges of the metro area to Salem, and it's an easy drive out of Boston to Waltham. I got a very good deal from Hotwire at the Westin, which is quite plush and offers a beautiful view over the hills from the restaurant and many rooms. There are several less expensive chains represented at the same interchange.

In addition to its incredible literary history, Concord is just one of the most beautiful, charming towns I've seen anywhere, great for driving or walking around.

This time, I took the Emerson house tour and visited the Concord Museum for the first time. They are right across the street from each other and easy to combine in one visit, both very worthwhile. Both have interesting and important Thoreau artifacts, too.

I know from past visits how interesting the Alcott House and Old Manse tours are too. Again, one parking space is all that's necessary for both the Old Manse and Concord Bridge, the latter well worth it as a beauty spot as well as a historical one, and to see its noble statue and poetic inscription which, like its subject, has been "heard round the world."

Kathryn, if you and your husband are Thoreau fans, don't be dissuaded from going to Walden Pond. While there looks to be heavy recreational use of one beach, I still enjoyed a peaceful and beautiful visit there. The bookstore filled with rare Thoreau and Emerson works and gifts, the cabin replica, and the more secluded actual cabin site (at least a twenty minute walk from the parking lot and the crowded beach,) with its stones brought there by visitors from around the world, are all musts.

If your teens are into hiking and lakes at all, even if not Thoreau, they will like spending time here too.

Although it was a sunny spring (admittedly not summer) day, the parking areas were quite large, although across the road from the Pond and not obstrusive, and I found a space easily. The advice to come early on a Summer day is probably still good, though.

I spent nearly a half day at the Pond and could easily have stayed longer, and that's another reason why I'd recommend literature lovers budget at least a day and a half for Concord.
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Old Feb 15th, 2005 | 10:10 AM
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Concord sounds just lovely. I think it will be one of the highlights of the trip. If my husband hadn't causally metioned it, and you Fodorites hadn't been so helpful, we probably wouldn't have considered it. I'm printing out all your suggestions -- thanks again.
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Old Feb 15th, 2005 | 10:36 AM
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This English major loved Concord. After spending a few days in Boston, it was a very nice change of pace. We toured Orchard House and the Wayside, and went to the cemetary, Old North Bridge, and Walden Pond.

Stop at the visitor center for a guide to homes that are open. Many closed at 4:00, so plan on an early start. We were at Walden on a beautiful weekday in July, and did not find it very crowded.

Our guide at the Wayside put it best. Two revolutions started in Concord. The American Revolution at the old North Bridge, and a revolution of thought with Emerson, Thoreau, Alcott, and others. (Bronson Alcott, Louisa May's father, was very influential). A lot of the ideas that are so much a part of the American conscience were formed here. Definately a must-see.
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Old Feb 15th, 2005 | 10:45 AM
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Don't miss the visitor's center in Salem, it's like a museum itself. Across from it is a shopping mall with a food court, the Thai restaurant is great, the orange duck there was a wonderful inexpensive meal.

If your kids are early teens they may like the Pirate museum. If older... it's more for children.
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Old Feb 15th, 2005 | 03:29 PM
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You've received great suggestions. There is a guide called Literary Tours of Greater Boston. The History Collaborative sponsors guided and self-guided tours.

Check out this link: http://www.lit-trail.org/

Enjoy!

CW
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Old Feb 15th, 2005 | 05:16 PM
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I got a book from my local library; I can't remember the exact name, and it was several years old - something along the lines of "literary guide to new england." It was nice to read before the trip. It gave information on some areas I wouldn't have known about otherwise. I just searched our library's on-line catalog, and I couldn't find it, but there are some similar titles out there.
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Old Feb 15th, 2005 | 06:35 PM
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It's a bit old, but you might want to look for the book "No Castles on Main Street" -- by Stephanie Kraft. I think she goes all over the country, but certainly she includes much of New England.

One of my favorite stopping places is Longfellow's Wayside Inn, which I believe is actually in Sudbury but not that far from Concord and all the other sites mentioned. Despite a little tourist-ing of it, the Grist Mill and the Mary-Martha Chapel are pretty and you can have an atmospheric (if not exactly 4 star) lunch at the Inn itself. http://www.wayside.org/
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Old Feb 15th, 2005 | 06:38 PM
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I don't suppose you'd consider Robert Parker among your literary icons?
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Old Feb 16th, 2005 | 12:56 AM
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I spent a couple of days in Salem one summer and did the Witch Museum which the family really enjoyed but the best for us was the Whale watching trip on the second day. We must have been close to around 10 whales some right beside the boat. It was amazing and all information given by a member of a scientific team who oversee the trips to make sure the Whales are not adversley affected by the boats.
We toured up to Freeport and stayed a couple of days them went onto Lincon in the White Mountains for a couple of nights then down to Ogunquit via Conway.
Whatever you decide I`m sure you will enjoy your trip!
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Old Feb 16th, 2005 | 11:18 AM
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Oh dear, so many wonderful suggestions -- we may need to move east to do everything we'd like to do (ha!) We love to whale watch and hadn't even considered such an activity for this trip. What kinds of whales did you see?
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Old Feb 16th, 2005 | 01:21 PM
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I agree with all the suggestions posted thus far but wanted to add a tidbit. The lantern tour at the House of Seven Gables was very fun and added to the eeriness of the site. Also just so you don't reveal your tourist status the incredible Peabody Essex museum is pronounced Pea-buh-DEE Essex. Definitely a don't miss spot.I also found the cemetery in Concord, the final resting place of so many famous authors was an incredible experience. Have a great time!
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Old Feb 16th, 2005 | 02:31 PM
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sue, are you sure? I've only ever heard PEE-biddy.
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Old Feb 16th, 2005 | 02:32 PM
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Woops, almost Suehoff --

It would be "Peebiddee" or even "Peebb'dee," with the accent on the first syllable in either case (not the last syllable; and also it's not "Pea-boddy").
 


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