TDudette

Hi to All, Mimi and I are meeting Friday night at 6 at Viale:

http://vialecambridge.com/

She is making reservations so please, please, please post here if you want to join us. It gets busy.

TDudette

please, please, please post here if you want to join us.

TDudette

OK, here starts the Sargent Mission (and a Sentimental Journey) Trip Report! I (DR) will be 69 very soon and made seeing the major museums my goal. Since I love John Singer Sargent, Boston is a logical place. Also, my mother lived and worked in Boston from 1933-43 and I have some of her addresses so hope to see what has become of them.

I'll do a brief info and a long diary version of each day with hints if needed.

Short Version

Day one hints:

1. Find out precise location of the Back Bay Logan Express bus. Concierge told me to wait at the middle block but the bus is a big one that stops on the first sidewalk outside Logan. I ended up taking a taxi after a 30-minute wait. $26.50 plus tip.
2. Taxi meter keeps running even if you are stopped in a tunnel. My trip was without traffic problems.
3. If you are flying Southwest Air, and have TSA Pre-check, make certain it is printed on your boarding pass. I’ve had to remind them each time I’ve flown.

Hotel: http://www.westincopleyplaceboston.com/

My single room on 17th floor with a nice view. There are 35 floors so higher might have even better ones.

Queen bed comfy, more than adequate drawers and removable hangers.
Coffee/tea; ironing board; mini fridge; safe; free water.

A big rip is having to pay for wi-fi.

Tuesday, 19 May

Meals: Big breakfast plus OJ at McDonalds ($7.28, 750 calories) which held me until 4

Early dinner at Globe Bar & Café
565 Boylston (C+ or low B)

Raw Power Shiraz: $8

Atlantic Salmon with saffron risotto, sautéed spinach and topped with creamy saffron parsley sauce: $17.95

Sites of Interest: Boston Public Library tour: http://www.bpl.org/

The docent took us via elevator to the top (3rd) floor and we used the steps to descend but the elevator is there.

https://www.bpl.org/central/sargentmurals.htm

https://www.bpl.org/central/abbey.htm

https://www.bpl.org/central/chavannes.htm

The long version

Up at 7 to leave at 7:50 for Econopark ( http://econoparkexpress.com/ ). At 8:50 I’m on the bus with 3 other people all flying Southwest. This service has small busses that pick you up at your car. Driver helps with luggage and there is water on board. You must reserve online for this service.

The TSA-Precheck line was longer than usual (30+ people) but I’m in line at McDonalds at 9:20. I wanted to try an Asian breakfast nearby, but a rather surly clerk sad they weren’t serving breakfast.

At the gate, there were still open charging stations so I checked email and then spent the next 40 minutes trying to do the NY Times crossword.

Uneventful flight and I sat with a woman and “my 93 yo husband”—both needed wheel chairs (along with 6 other folks on the plane) and we chatted for most of a smooth ride. They would be visiting daughter and a new great grand on a fruit farm.

Baggage claim got stuck, and then I waited for 30 minutes at the wrong location for the Back Bay Logan express bus. Took a taxi and was still in the room by 3:03.

The room is really nice. I was told there would be 2 king beds but there is just one. I will meet with 2 other Fodorites (DF and YK) for a very mini-gtg tomorrow in Chinatown. One will bring a toddler; the ‘very mini’ part in deference to the child. DF will stay with me for 2 museum visits.

OK, unpacked and hungry, I’m ready to see my new ‘hood. The Library (BPL), Trinity and Old South churches, and Copley Square with its outdoor market winding down.

As I exit the Westin, the Back Bay Logan bus passes by without stopping so I’m guessing it goes to a station nearby. I walk by Copley Square and took some shots. Then along Boylston where I spot a CVS, a wine shop (Clarendon, 563) and Globe Bar & Café. Spoke with a nearby couple from Virginia and the Greeter (college student) about all the snow Greeter encountered. Her college (UM-B) doesn’t have dorms so they missed more school than others. As long as busses were running, Globe was open.

Meal was only OK and twice as much as I could eat in one sitting. The spinach was tough if you can imagine. But the salmon was good and the risotto tasty but a bit clumpy (see photo).

Strolled over to Dewberry Street and peeked in the oldest art non-profit in the U.S. The works didn’t “grab” but I took a card for FYIs to my art colleagues. Back to BPL and rested in the lovely courtyard before the 6-7 p.m. tour.

We had a fun docent (Les) whose attitude about municipal waste and college students slipped through. The BPL is the oldest U.S. free library (older one in Philadelphia thanks to Ben Franklin not free) and the original section was closed for 10 years for restoration. Please see the “clean/dirty” before and after shot.

The Sargent murals were so different from his usual work and he spent 30 years (per Les) completing them. 3-D elements added dimension to the works. Please see links above for the 3 artists’ mural halls.

By 7, my feet and back (marble floors are tough!) are tender and I am pooped. Drag back to hotel, stop by the bar but $14 for a glass of wine didn’t do it. I know why worry after the big taxi ride and the room prices! So comforted myself with a free bottle of water in the room. Wrote notes, checked emails and crashed around 10.

gomiki

Love this! Looking forward to more.

jubilada

Keep going!
Interesting about recheck. It has always appeared on my boarding pass but I will make sure in the future.

TDudette

Day 2, Wednesday, 20 May 2015

Weather high 60s mostly sunny. Delightful!

Short Version

Breakfast: Dunkin Donuts: Glass of iced coffee and a croissant. $4.22

Lunch: Bubor Cha Cha: Dim Sum $27 with 7 dishes for 3 adults and one toddler. With thanks to yk for compiling this list, here’s what we had:

Shiu Mai (pork & shrimp dumplings)

Chive & shrimp dumplings

Char Siu Bao (BBQ pork buns)

Lai Wong Bao (egg custard buns)

Beef Cheung fun (beef wrapped in steamed rice noodles)

Vegetarian Spring rolls

Steamed sticky rice (wrapped in lotus leaves)

Dinner: MFA Café & Wine: Turkey, bacon, tomato, avocado, chipoltle mayo and 2 wines. $35 for two people. C++

Hint:
1. Beach Street in Chinatown is not marked at the corner of Beach and Washington. The name is LaGrange on the west of the intersection. If you reach Kneeland, you have passed Beach.
2. A ride on the T is pretty straight forward. It was nice having dfroshnh to help figure out the machine. Be a good tourist and step out of the way of commuters.
3. Wear comfortable shoes!
4. Copley Square very convenient location.

Sites of interest: Museum of Fine Arts (“MFA”) ( http://www.mfa.org/ ) One needs more than a day (or legs and feet of steel) to do this behemoth justice. Public sketching on some nights. MFA has 4 places to eat ranging from cheap to not cheap.

Long Version: Chinatown lunch, MFA and MFA Sketching

Up at 7 but not out until 9:40. Had planned to grab a bite at BPL but decided to make my walk to Chinatown a leisurely one with a “grab” along the way.

I noticed a rack of public bicycles (Hey santamonica!) for rent in front of the library. As I got closer to Newberry St., I see a big Ryder truck disgorging a half-dozen people pushing trolleys of camera and sound equipment. Friendy traffic cop says “Chasing Life” (a TV show I think) and then, with a longing eye, “Sofia Vergera”.

Newberry Street was very pleasant at this time of day. Passed School of Fashion Design, galleries and high-end retail shops. I spy the ivy-covered First Baptist Church of Boston ( http://www.firstbaptistchurchofboston.org/ ) and then the Taj Hotel before reaching Boston Public Gardens (“BPG”).

I crossed Arlington Ave. and entered the BPG. It was “snowing” white blossoms as I see two rows of just peaked tulips leading to statue of George Washington (did someone put a Boston Jersey on him?). Saw the swan boats and a swan. Gave a buck to the Erhu player and the hurdy gurdy man and then crossed to the Common and got a shot of a wedding in the Parkman Bandstand.

At this point, I turn right and realize I have done a one-hour mile! A Dunkin’ Donuts beckons so I grab an iced coffee and a croissant. As a croissant connoisseur, I could only give it a C+

I continue east to meet dfrostnh and yk for lunch in Chinatown. I kept this very mini gtg small so yk could bring her toddler and it would be more manageable. He ate as well as we did and played with his toy trucks (knowing precisely what they were "frontloader", etc.). As it turned out, he was perfect until time to go.

We then all went toward the C Mart (thanks yk!) where I rather rushed dfrost so I could get to my Sargents. We took a cab back to the hotel, stowed our stuff, then took the T to the Museum of Fine Arts (MFA). Very easy ride on the T and we looked at the Sargents in and around the rotunda and in the Art of the Americas galleries. We then strolled all of the Americans and the Arts/Crafts galleries—btw, they are located in a 3-story separate section. We had to pass through the New American Café to get to it. There was a Chihuly glass tree (see photos) in the café.

By this time, we are bushed so went to Taste Café and Wine Bar (see saw the word wine first) and get dinner and it is time for sketching. Turns out (after asking) that sketching will be back in the Americas section. This is a free, public activity. This time there is a model (wearing black sequined bathing suit) who held each pose for 5 minutes until 7 when he went for 10 minutes before taking a break. We took that time to go back to the room with our sore feet!

DR sees a cab and says “I’m buying!” so, although it took way longer than the T, let us sit back and relax. Cab had a credit card slot. We stopped for supplies (wine, coffee and sundries) then back to the room to check emails and look at Fodor’s.

A great day!

cigalechanta

Sounds like it was fun. wish I could have joined you to meet the other two ladies. Looking forward to tomorrow night.

Nikki

Sounds like great fun. Weather has been nice too.

obxgirl

TDude - I always read and enjoy your art expedition trip reports and this one delivers just like the others do. Thanks for sharing your experiences.

Saw a couple of Sargents at the Smithsonian American Art last weekend and thought of your thread about this trip.

dfrostnh

Unabridged Version of Wednesday:
Great view from 17th floor looking out toward Cambridge. So much has changed in Boston. The big plaza in front of Pru is now stores. Could see lovely garden on a roof top near or above Star Market. Great dim sum lunch with yk and m-yk.

Hotel to MFA:
1. stopped by Channel 7 news for our opinions of theft at BPL. TDudette gives lengthy opinion so we are greatly disappointed next day not to see ourselves on tv.
2. Apparently I do not understand how much it costs to ride the T except for knowing I don't get senior fare unless I have proven my senior status at some T office at Downtown Crossing. Fortunately, a train goes by every few seconds and TDu is patient when I discover more than once that I do not have enough money on my Charlie Card.

3. TDu wonders how many colleges are in Boston and starts asking fellow T riders. After discovering several attractive young men are almost doctors working at Brigham's (not the ice cream store), they discuss recent medical innovations.

4. We arrive at MFA one hour before "free" admission starts. Kindly MFA volunteer tries to save us money, advising us to wait. Senior ticket is $23. TDu is on a mission and needs to get into the museum Right Now. I explain she has traveled from MD and is on a mission. He finally understands.

5. After the rotunda, we pause near the Chihully tree to figure out where we are and where to go next but TDu sees the beautiful young man with outrageous hair and asks to take his picture. She has official business cards and I think a photo release form he signs.

6. We visit as many Sargents as TDu can find. She thinks I'm just being nice but I am interested in why she is fascinated with his work. We have enough time to visit the American Decorative Arts galleries before heading for sandwiches and wine. I give a much higher rating since wine is generously poured and the potato chips are the dark kind. Plus TDu lets me have her two giant olives. I expected we would be drawing a still life so was surprised to have a live model for this free event. Drawing supplies and seats are provided. I have never sketched anyone doing 5 minutes poses and enjoy trying to work fast enough instead of laboriously working on a single area. I hardly use my eraser. I do wonder where someone buys black sequined bathing suits.

7. TDu opts for visiting the wine store and I opt for a hotel frozen capuchino. (however you spell it). It goes very well with the madelines yk gave us.

Thursday:
8. Wonderful leisurely breakfast at Thornton's (?) with AGM. She warns Marylander TDu away from crab cakes so we both choose eggs benedict with turkey, asparagus with a side of well seasoned home fries.

9. Easy repeat trip to MFA T stop and walk to Gardner Museum. I spy The Geese Police which TDu thinks is another photo op. While she is chasing after guy with border collie, the geese have taken flight, do a U-turn and I almost have to duck as they fly overhead. I am praying they are not scared sh!tl3ss on my head.

10. Isabella didn't allow labels on any of her artwork but there are room guides that explain it all IF you know which wall is north, south, etc. I am surprised that Mr. Gardner was scandalized over a portrait of her in the Gothic Room and did not allow the room to be open to the public during their lifetime. Obviously, although the room guides are very helpful, I should have done some research before visiting. It is a very unique museum. My knee requested an early departure so I miss the tour.

11. I am leaving Boston without a duck but not without a banh mi. AGM has recommended a shop I can find via directions and the hint that there is a number in the name. It is 163 Vietnamese Sandwich Shop. I also stop for pastries and Thai iced tea thereby missing bus back to NH by approx. 1 minute but this gives me a chance to enjoy a snack/late lunch before heading home. Buses to and from Boston/Concord NH are almost full and run almost hourly. It's an easy trip (free parking at Concord NH bus station) and the station is very near Chinatown.

dfrostnh

ps there was an interesting short iPad video showing how 2 large tapestries were cleaned. I think museum visitors have no idea how much cleaning and restoration work is required so I appreciated this short glimpse. It's very easy to miss this little gadget and I only viewed one section (cleaning process).

Toucan2

Bookmarking

TDudette

dfrosty, I love your TR! I'd forgotten to write about our being interviewed about the BPL theft.


Day 3, Thursday 21 May 2015

Forgot to write actual temp but guess high 60s or low 70s. Sunny and pleasant.

Short Version

Also forgot to say that room has hair dryer and lighted magnifier mirror.

Breakfast: Thornton’s 150 Huntington Ave. About a 10 minute walk from Westin. DF and DR had Eggs Benedict Thornton (poached eggs, turkey, asparagus, hollandaise); AGM had soft scrambled with veggies. $13.50 each with tax and tip included.

Linner: Isabella Gardner Museum Café; Bellini ($11) Gruyere and roasted cauliflower quiche, arugula salad with nuts, grapes and faro ($16). 4 or 5 small slices of home-made bread. $28.89 before tip. Excellent quiche. Since the salad occupied more than half of the plate (and I could find only one grape), I’ll rate this meal a B++. A+ service though.

Hints:
1. I was very warm in ISGM.
2. There is a lift that we used before the tour. Tour guide doesn’t mention it so you may need to say something.
3. Our tour only saw about 5 items. The earphones one might show you more.
4. The Sargents are in several rooms.
5. Prudential complex is huge! There is a T station there.
6. ‘Museum of Fine Arts’ on the E line is T stop for MFA (across the street) and ISGM (5-10 minute easy walk). $5.30 round trip price from Copley.
7. Very pretty bathroom in ISGM!

Long Version: Breakfast with AGM and Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum

Up and about early and we talk and take turns on the computer until it is time to leave (9:10) to meet AGM at 9:30 for breakfast at Thornton’s. I stop to take a shot of a neat building (AGM will tell us it is part of Prudential complex) and turn around to find AGM!

DF and I had met her at a previous GTG and loved hearing about her cooking. She brought us each a jar of chocolate/raspberry jam of her making! DF and she, both gardners, shared product and tomato information. We talked and talked until AGM had to return to work.

We pass a man folding up his bicycle and made a quick room stop. Then back to the Copley T and the same outbound route for ISGM and more Sargents. I tried to add money to my T card but the machine didn’t like the coin dollars it had dispensed as change yesterday so I bought another card. Only had a $20 bill so got a huge pile of more coins.

We walk to museum by crossing the street to Museum Way and following it around to Louis Prange where we took a right at the first part of Evans Way. We pass a little park to the next part of Evans Way where we follow two women going to the entrance on the left.

We pass a car with “Geese Police” printed on the side and see a border collie herding the geese in the park we passed! They fly off in a goose huff. Guy tells us he re-visits the parks a couple of times a day as geese do return.

The ISGM has a separate building with entrance, shop, class room and nice café (indoor and outside seating). Mrs. Gardner, like Dr. Barnes at the Barnes Foundation (another entire subject), left explicit directions that nothing be changed in the museum. Although the tour docent was unable to explain the logic of some of the placements, she was adamant that everything was kept to Mrs. G’s specifications.

The Gardners had another home in Boston but docent reported that Mrs. G. had the museum built and moved to the upper floor after her husband’s death. We read that she let John Sargent use the gothic room as a studio.

Few, if any, works were labeled. Instead, there were plastic “maps” of each wall. For some reason, I found these difficult as there was one for north, south, east and west walls. DF patiently guided me toward the Sargents in the various rooms. We still missed one! DF found a video in the tapestry showing the latest way to clean the fragile wool and silk fabrics.

At tour time, DF is ready to continue her Chinatown shopping (curtailed by me yesterday) and give her legs a break, so we say “Until the next gtg” and I take the tour. As mentioned in hints, it didn’t cover more than 6 actual works. Docent did mention Sargent’s last portrait of Mrs. G with her swaddled in a white fabric before her death. On the tour, we used the steps but DF and I found an older lift. Yippee, I was not out of breath on the stairs.

I had signed up for a 5:30 talk but after the tour was getting really tired. Had a lovely linner (lunch and dinner) at the café and decided to skip the talk. I was also too tired to go to the gift shop. DH’s ashes quiver with laughter over that!

Took T back to Copley and a kind young man gave me his seat. Back in the room, with shoes off immediately, I decided to tear off a piece of the chocolate whoopee pie DF had left. Three wines and the entire pie consumed, and I was asleep until 6 the next day!

cigalechanta

Happy you enjoyed the Garner. Mrs Gardners's portrait has been noted her dress (decollage) was down to Crawford's Notch. Remind me to tell you an aside about the stolen Masterpieces

Nikki

Love the report and the annotations.

Toucan2

Loving the report, and dfrosty's additions! You are filling your days with such wonderful experiences.

I hope you and cigalechanta are enjoying your dinner together right now!

jubilada

I love this duet report.

TDudette

Mimi, I hope you post here also.


Day 4, 22 May 2015

High 60s, sunny

Short Version

Brunch: American Joe’s Bar & Grill: http://www.joesamerican.com/
Cup of clam chowder: $6.90 A+
Lobster Mac and Cheese: $14.90 B-

Dinner: Viale: http://vialecambridge.com/

Rhode Island Swordfish – 
golden beets, fiddleheads, avocado-dill $25 A
Chocolate Olive Oil Cake – chocolate budino, espresso creme anglaise $8 A+

Hints and more info:
1. Hotel has free wi-fi in the lobby and a small room with printer and computer plugs.
2. A cool glass bench dfrostnh encountered at MFA is part of “Please Be Seated” program.
3. Buy latest edition of “Top Ten Boston”—you won’t be disappointed by closed restaurants.
4. Even though directions say take “D line” from Copley to Park St. the inbound cars with “North Station” sign will stop there.
5. Harvard Square Starbucks has toilets. Buy coffee and they will give you the code to open the door.
6. Get a better map than the 25-cent one on Harvard Square.
7. Harvard Art Museums has café.
8. “5 minutes” to a 20 year old translates to 20 minutes to a 69-yo.
9. Check Harvard Natural History Museum about its elevator. Very user-unfriendly.
10. Know your actual street address if you call a cab.


Long Version: Harvard and Dinner with Cigalechanta

Awoke at 6 but took a leisurely morning to recoup and look at T plans for Harvard. The cleaners and coffee folks worked around me as I typed notes.

Walked over to BPL but the menu didn’t call out so went over to Newberry Street to find a creperie I’d seen online. The Copley market was on again. Stopped at a nearby bank to trade the heavy dollar coins into bills.

Not seeing creperie but Stephanie’s on Newberry looms large and there are many people sitting outside. The menu didn’t call so I went across the street to Joe’s American Bar & Grill. As I waited for hostess, another person waiting to eat said the crepe place had closed.

I sat at the bar and and the tender (starting college—engineering major—after post high school jobs for 10 years) said I’d love their mac and cheese even though it isn’t a favorite. Knowing I’ll be on my feet for 6 more hours, I decided to carb load. The chowder really was delicious and the oyster crackers fun memories from childhood. My first bite of tough lobster in the mac and cheese dish was a disappointment. Subsequent bites were half tough/half not. Cheeses good but it also had croutons. I couldn’t finish it. Oh well.

As I strolled, the sound of a tuba and horns is coming closer. The father and brother of one of the graduating class tells me this is the Boston Architecture College. The huge group in cap and gown parades along the sidewalk.

The T to Harvard rode over the Charles so I could enjoy the view. Saw a sign (or read) that the Tremont Street line is the first underground subway in the U.S. Harvard Square area is busy and teeming with students, tourists, professorial-looking tweeds, and anxious-looking parents. Here are some of the restos: http://www.harvardsquare.com/restaurants
A big old-fashioned looking newsstand caught my eye. I think I’ve read about it in some mystery story along the line. I paid 25 cents at another kiosk for a Harvard map. Grabbed an iced coffee and strolled to Harvard Yard where I sat at tables and planned my walk to the Art Museums.

All the Harvard art museums (musea?) were combined until one roof. The galleries surround an open courtyard. Airy and inviting. (Upon leaving, I did see a separate Sackler but didn’t look closely.) I work with ticket seller to find the Sargent works and walk the entire area on the second floor. Non-flash photography allowed so I took shots of Sargents and one of Monet’s Bridge on Thames. If you name an artist, his/her work is probably included in this nice gallery.

Per yk’s suggestion, I visited the Rothko Murals. Rothko fashioned his own pigments. Unknown at the time, his reds will fade. Thanks to the computer, the original color was devised but there was no way to actually restore the works on canvas. Sooo instead, the curators devised a way of projecting colors onto the works on the walls. A kind curator told me that if I stayed until 4, the projectors would be turned off so actual faded works would be revealed.

Neither dfrosty nor I are big fans of abstract art and I thought of her when I heard another patron announce that he’d noticed “A fine Pollack downstairs!”!! The first floor abstracts included a felt suit on a hanger and a statue (didn’t read its material) of a nude woman squatting over a long yellow string of beads. Sorry, but ugh.

My feet are fine but my back is hurting a bit. Stop for another iced coffee and try a savory palmier ( http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/i...rs-recipe.html ). $? Instead of cinnamon and sugar, it was stuffed with spinach, tomatoes and artichokes. Very good.

Checked emails and cigalechanta writes to suggest I see the glass flowers in Natural History (“NH”) museum. Again I work with ticket taker to get online (on Kindle) to see the Sargents on display. I ask her how long to walk to Natural History and she says 5 minutes. So I decide to head there.

The cheap Harvard map shows NH on the same road as Art. Not so. Depending on the kindness of strangers, I find NH on Oxford Street, not Quincy where Art is located. I climb a set of stairs to buy ticket and am told that to reach the 3rd floor where they “live” via an elevator, I must go back outside and walk around building.

I didn’t have the presence of mind to ask if one could buy a ticket over there but took the stairs instead. A puff was necessary but it was worth it. Don’t expect Chihuly glass (huge!) as was my frame of reference. I couldn’t believe that the botanically correct plants were made of glass. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glass_Flowers

It is now after 4:30 so I get directions in gift shop for elevator and they give me a slip with two cab company numbers. The elevator dumps at another end of the building. I didn’t see ticket-taking facilities there.

Got out to the street and called the cab but I wasn’t sure of the actual street number. Giving dispatcher the two cross streets wasn’t enough. Hmmm. I walk until I reach a building with a street number and call the second number. Lionel picks me up within 10 minutes and is more than willing to drive up to Bow Street in Somerville and then back to Cambridge so I can take the sentimental part of this journey; seeing where family lived and mom worked.

My mother was employed at the Somerville National Bank from 1933 – 1943 when her first child was born. That building is now “Bloc ii Café.” http://bloc11.com/ You can tell that it was a bank. Dad lived at number 33 on the same street and it remains an apartment building but has been fully restored. Lionel stopped so I could take a photo. Then back to Central Square T area and Pleasant St. Number 4, mom's address, is now a parking lot.

It is now getting close to the time to meet cigalechante at Viale. It is about a 10-minute walk from Pleasant Street to the restaurant along Mass. Avenue. She has made reservations so I get seated and get wine. As always, it is really fun to meet the person behind the Fodor’s posts! Mimi and I share several similar life experiences and we just talked and talked. Oh, she had the soft crabs and the citron cheesecake.

At dusk, and after a second wine, I am starting to fade. Instead of T, I decide to cab “home” and Mimi waits with me and hails a cab. Easy ride back to Copley. In the room, I transfer photos to computer, look at emails and crash by 9.

Toucan2

It sounds like another wonderful (and exhausting!) day tdude.

LouisaH

What a fabulous report! I feel like I'm right there with you and the other Fodorites.