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Old Jun 25th, 2009, 05:17 PM
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Big Island trip report

Trip report for Big Island May 12-19, 2009

My husband and I got back a few weeks ago from a wonderful trip to the Big Island (to celebrate my graduation from medical school!). We flew from Lexington, Ky to Hilo and then rented a car.

May 12 – Our first 3 nights were spent at the Volcano Teapot Cottage. We were pretty tired after our 17 hours of travel so we went straight to the cottage. We loved it here. Volcano was very cute and cozy. The Teapot Cottage was wonderful and we definitely plan on visiting it again someday. We ate at Lava Rock which was very near. We liked the Lava Rock, the waitress was very nice. My husband had blackened mahi mahi that came with rice, veggies, and beef mac soup. I had teriyaki chicken, rice, veggies and a salad with passion fruit vinaigrette. Taro rolls and water finished the meal and with tax & tip it was $31. We then went back to our cottage and got in the hot tub. It was lights out by 8:30.

May 13 – This was our busiest day. We were pretty excited so we just kept coming up with things to do. Breakfast was at our cottage: Portuguese style sausage, eggs, pastries, coffee, guava nectar, and papayas. All wonderful. We spent the day in Hilo and first stop was the Farmer’s Market. The market was awesome. There was tons of beautiful things to buy and very affordable. We bought a bag with huge strawberry papayas, the biggest avocado I have ever seen (the size of a dinner plate), a bag of tomatoes, pineapple, musubi, some sweetened rice covered in taro leaves, and some samosas with a chickpea salad for $15! We also bought two hand drawn pictures for $20. We walked around downtown awhile and then went to the Lyman Museum. We were the first people there for the day. Everyone was very nice; we even got our own leis. The museum was interesting; the first floor is all about lava and Hawaii environments. The second floor tells the history of the Hawaiian colonization and influence of the missionaries. We spent some time walking downtown to see the lovely shops. Stopped at a grocery store and bought a Tahitian limeade with coconut and vanilla (Yum!). We drove Banyan Drive and went to Coconut Island where you get a lovely view of Hilo. We also went to Rainbow Falls and Boiling Pots. It hadn’t been raining very much so Boiling Pots wasn’t very boiling, but Rainbow Falls was pretty still. We decided that we wanted to do the lava viewing (which is what really made this day long) that night so we had to kill some time. We decided to take the Pepeekeo Scenic Route which was beautiful. We then went to Big Island Candies for free samples. On the way back we stopped off at Wilson’s by the Bay for a coconut flavored shave ice. Then it was off to the Pana`ewa Rainforest Zoo & Gardens (free) to see Terry the white tiger. It’s a smaller zoo and we were in and out in about an hour but we really enjoyed it. The plants are gorgeous and they have some really cute animals. We got to see the feeding of Terry the white tiger (not as exciting as it sounds) and talk to a parrot. We then went to the Mauna Loa nut factory, took the tour (about 10 minutes, self guided) and bought some mac nut goods. Finally it was time to head to the lava viewing which doesn’t open until five. We drove to the viewing area, hiked out, and found some really great seats out in front. We sat for about two hours waiting for darkness to arrive. When it was finally dark enough it was very exciting to be able to see the red glow on the clouds. Honestly, though, the viewing area is about a mile from the lava and there is a little hill between the actual lava and you. So all you end up seeing is the glow on the clouds. While this was fun and we are very glad we did it, it was a little disappointing and anticlimactic. We stayed for a while to try to get some decent pictures and then drove home. We got back to our cottage about 8:50 and every restaurant was closed so we ate leftover pastries and some of the spoils of our farmer’s market trip and went to bed, exhausted.

May 14 – This whole day was devoted to Volcano National Park and I think we would both agree that it was our best day. We had breakfast at the cottage: bagels with cream cheese with passion fruit jam, papaya, and homemade banana nut bread. We really enjoyed the park a lot and my husband’s office mates did too. They all got a big kick out of us being on the side of a volcano all day, which I thought was really cute. We did a big chunk of the park: the caldera overlook, Jagger Museum, devastation trail, Thurston Lava Tube, and Chain of Craters rode. Our biggest accomplishment was doing the 4 mile Kilauea Iki trail. We got to walk through both rainforest and over old lava flows which had some steam vents remaining. It was like being on another planet and was totally worth every step. We decided that we would devote our evening to relaxing at our wonderful cottage since it was our last night. We left the park around 3 and drove to Thai Thai. It was very good and the service was great. My husband had the yellow curry and I had the red (with tax/tip it was $35). We then went to our cottage and rested, used the hot tub twice (so great after all of our hiking), and played cards on the front porch and listened to rainforest birds.

May 15 – This was our road trip day traveling from our lovely Volcano cottage to our shiny Kohala coast resort. Breakfast, once again, was at the cottage. Our hostess went all out today with a quiche, huge croissants, and fresh cut pineapple. We set out toward Hilo at about 10:30. Decided to drive the 4 mile scenic loop again and stop at What’s Shakin for a smoothie which we saw on our first go around. We got a papaya paradise and split it ($6.75). I’m not a smoothie kind of girl, so I may not have been able to fully appreciate at but I thought it was just ok. Kept driving and actually wound up taking the wrong road in Waimea and ended up on an alternate, longer road, closer to Mauna Kea. We didn’t mind though because it was just more to see. We got to the Hapuna Beach Prince about 2:00. The staff was very nice and we were upgraded from our ocean front room to a 1200 sq ft ocean front suite! It was amazing: two balconies, a huge bathroom, small kitchen kind of area, and a fabulous view of the ocean. In fact we were probably only 20 yards from the beach. We tore ourselves away and decided to drive to Hawi for dinner at Bamboo (about 25 minutes away). Bamboo was closed when we got there, unfortunately. So we went to the Kamehameha statue, Popolu overlook and drove back toward the resort. On the way I saw a sign for Café Pesto so we went there for dinner. We had crab cakes and a 12’ pizza marguerite for dinner with leftovers ($31 with t & t). It was fairly good food. We walked around the shopping area where the restaurant was and found a really nice art store with items far too expensive for us but beautiful to look at. We struck up a conversation with the guy behind the counter that was very interesting. On our way back we stopped at Mauna Kea beach because someone at Hilo Farmer’s Market told my husband you could find lots of turtles on the beach there. No such luck that night. When we got back to the hotel we put on our pajamas and crashed on the lounger on our big balcony and listened to Hawaiian music on a radio we brought from the room. What is better than lying under the stars with beautiful music and the sound of an ocean nearby?

May 16- Up by 6:30 and had breakfast in the room with leftovers that we took from our cottage: banana bread, yogurt, papayas. We then went to the beach and swam for the morning. Around lunch we decided to go to Waimea to eat. We passed another farmer’s market and stopped (what can I say, we love vegetables). This time we got 2 more papayas and 4 mountain apples ($3) and a jar of homemade passion fruit jam ($8) that we have since almost finished because it is so good. Ate at Huli Sue’s which is really cute with good service. My husband had the BBQ mix plate and I had the pulled pork sandwich ($34 with t & t). It was surprisingly good barbecue for the middle of the Pacific. We went to the Waipio Valley overlook. We had planned on taking a horseback trip through the valley but I forgot to book it so we wound up just doing the overlook. It was still very lovely. We stopped at Tex’s for a malasada then drove back to the hotel to prepare for the evening on Mauna Kea. We had to meet Hawaii Forest & Trail at Roy’s restaurant by 3:25. Rode up the slope and had dinner (husband had beef stew and I had veggie with cornbread muffins, it was fairly good) then continued on up to the summit for the sunset. It was so beautiful on the summit. We were above the clouds watching the sunset among huge astronomy towers. It was a once in a lifetime experience. After sunset we rode back down to a more comfortable level for a star gazing party. It was pretty cloudy and made the star gazing more difficult on our guide, but we still saw some amazing things. We saw star clusters, a nebula, and Saturn. Wonderful experience. Then it was home to bed by 11.

May 17 – My plan for this morning was whatever comes around. Fruit and more Cottage leftovers for breakfast then we went to the beach. It was actually pretty cool and we never could get comfortable in the water so we actually didn’t spend the whole morning there. We decided to drive to Kona for lunch. We ate at Huggo’s on the Rocks and both got the mahi tacos ($30 with T/T). We decided to go to the painted church and Place of Refuge because I had mistakenly thought they were kind of close. I was wrong. We eventually made it there after getting lost and getting directions from a one toothed hippie (who was very nice) and going down a deserted one lane dirt road. Place of Refuge was interesting and we finally got to see a sea turtle. He was napping on the sand in the cove. We also saw a couple more swimming but they never came out of the water. We missed the sign for the Painted Church, so we didn’t see that. We decided to find SeaQuest headquarters so we wouldn’t be late the next morning and go back to the hotel. The afternoon I had planned for us to go to the Big Island Film Festival (I love movies). This was the last night so it was a concert and best of the fest all rolled into one. We got to see world famous slack key guitarist Makana, who was amazing. We also got dinner there: sliders from Daniel Thiebaut (5 for $10). We had a sort of picnic while listening to music, good memories. Then the movies started. They showed a short (First Hawaiian Snowball Fight) to celebrate 50 years of statehood. Then the best short (Kung Fu Granny) and long (God’s Ears) feature were shown. We got two t-shirts for $15 too. Who says Hawaii is expensive?

May 18- Up at 6:00 so we could make it to Kona in time for our 7:45 meet up with the SeaQuest people. Ate breakfast at Buns in the Sun: hubby got egg, cheese, & ham croissant and I got the aloha bowl (papaya, yogurt, and granola). It was super good. Once at SeaQuest headquarters meet up with our guides Liam and Brian, gathered everyone together and headed out. It was a really fun ride. Liam goes very fast and takes some pretty sharp curves to amp up the excitement level. We went on a bit of a coast line tour and then out to more open water to find some larger animals. We didn’t see anything so went on to our first snorkeling spot, the Place of Refuge. It was really good snorkeling. Unfortunately, I became nauseous. I’m pretty sure it was the bigger waves rushing into and out of my ears because I didn’t start feeling sick until after I noticed a change in my ear comfort and I know it wasn’t the speed boat because the boat actually made me feel better. Anyway, I couldn’t snorkel the second site, Captain Cook monument, but my husband said it was even better than Place of Refuge. While I was on the boat Liam and Brian took good care of me by making sure I was feeling ok and joking around with me. On our way back to the dock the waves kicked up which increased the excitement even more. We came across three single manned kayak type boats that were being overcome by the waves. We ended up bringing them on board and towing their boats back. It became a rescue mission! Really cool trip and one I will do again when we go back. For lunch we went to a Mexican place called Habanero’s that one of the guides had suggested. Hubby got carne asada plate and I got a taco salad and we saved our tortilla chips for dinner later. After we left we went to Mountain Thunder coffee farm. It was a waste of time. The girl spent about 3 minutes with us, no tour, and just wanted to talk with some other people sitting outside the gift shop. We ended up buying a small bag of Peaberry and leaving. Next we went to Greenwell Farms. This one was very good. Great tour, lots of tasting opportunities, and nice people. My husband said the coffee was better too (I don’t drink coffee). After that we drove back north and stopped at the Queen’s Market in Waikoloa Beach to buy dinner supplies. We got some Asian style pork and rice, taro rolls, and cubed pineapple for $19. We took all of that, our leftover tortilla chips, papayas, and some water and had a dinner on our balcony. To finish our last night off in style we took a sunset walk on the beach and found our own little cove surrounded by trees, with two reclining chairs overlooking the ocean. It was beautiful.

May 19 – Woke up early and sat on the balcony to try to get in the last little bit of ocean we could. Left Hapuna Beach, unhappily I might add, and drove to Tex’s Drive In for breakfast. He got a plate with 2 eggs, hash browns, and spam. I on the other hand wanted to hold onto the island as much as possible so I got the fruit delight which was supposed to come with a papaya, pineapple, banana, and yogurt with a malasada on the side. What I got was a papaya, mandarin oranges, and canned pineapple. They ran out of yogurt so they gave me an extra malasada (much to my husband’s delight). I was so mad, canned fruit in Hawaii; I threw most of it away. Once back near Hilo we decided to take the 4 mile scenic loop again (third time for those keeping count) because we had gotten up too early and needed to kill time. We drove around Hilo, including to the public library to see the famed Naha Stone that Kamehameha lifted to prove he was king. We missed it the first time and wound up doing a turn around in the parking lot of the jail. The officer who informed us of this was not very happy. Honestly, it was in a school zone, how were we supposed know? So, after driving around some more on Banyan Drive, next to the second Kamehameha statue and the shore line we headed to the airport to start our very long journey home.

Sorry this was so long but we did a lot and really loved our time there. We both said that this was our 2nd favorite vacation ever, behind our honeymoon. Also it was the first time that at the end of a vacation we weren’t ready to come home. We hope to make it back some day soon, it was magical.
green33 is offline  
Old Jun 25th, 2009, 05:54 PM
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Congratulations on completing medical school. You certainly deserve what sounds like a wonderful vacation. Was occupancy low at the Hapuna Prince? Picturing you lounging on the large balcony, I definitely have suite-envy!
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Old Jun 25th, 2009, 06:44 PM
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No apology necessary - I hung on every word! I'm glad you went on to Greenwell Coffee Farm after the disappointment at the first place. It is a class act!

Thanks for a great report!
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Old Jun 25th, 2009, 10:36 PM
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This was a perfect way to end my day, very uplifting and well written. Thank you for posting.
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Old Jun 26th, 2009, 07:57 AM
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Lovely trip report. And you will make it back to Hawaii. You had the same reaction to leaving as my husband and I did on our first trip there--we weren't ready to come home. And we have our 14th trip to the BI planned for next Feb.
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Old Jun 26th, 2009, 06:28 PM
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Glad you enjoyed "my" island. Sorry the lava didn't cooperate for you. This week it is flowing down the mountain and into the sea-quite dramatic, but it is hit and miss. Next time you need to stay on the east side for a few days!
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Old Jun 26th, 2009, 06:42 PM
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"stay on the east side for a few days!"...and consult the expert resident on where the best viewing actually is! ...He knows!
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Old Jun 27th, 2009, 11:34 AM
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We go to the BI every year for 3 weeks, and stay in an apartment right on the water in Kona. I am crazy about papaya and love going to the farmer's market there and getting 5 or 6 for $2. We spend all our time either on the lanai or somewhere else out of doors. I really miss the outdoor living and the sound of the ocean. I know how you felt about not wanting to leave!! The first time we went to Hawaii it was to Maui for a week, and DD and I cried when the plane took off because we did not want to go home.
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Old Jun 28th, 2009, 04:07 PM
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I loved your long trip report. We will be going the end of October. I am seriously thinking of staying at the Volcano Teapot Cottage for two nights. I am just trying to justify spending the $195.00 per night as we would like to stay for two nights and we are on a budget. Could you tell me more about this place - is it romantic, quiet, etc. Anything else you could share about this Cottage would be appreciated.
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Old Jun 28th, 2009, 04:30 PM
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The Volcano Teapot was our favorite thing on the island. It is very romantic and quiet. We were very relaxed and well taken care of while there. It was built in the early 1900's and Bill and Antoinette have added on and decorated it very nicely. There is a hot tub surrounded by trees and plants so that you have some privacy. The beds are very comfortable. There is no heating or cooling in the cottage, but it's honestly not a problem. The rain forest keeps you very cool and there is a gas fireplace and space heaters that are very effective if you start to get too cold. There are also plush bathrobes to wrap yourself in. The breakfasts were very good. It feels like your own private house in the rain forest. We didn't want to leave most days because we loved it so much. Volcano is a small community but we really liked it. The proximity to VNP is very handy too. We would without reservation 100% recommend the cottage and are trying to find a time to go back. You'll love it.
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Old Jun 29th, 2009, 04:13 AM
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green33 - Thank you very much for all the info. Did you reserve through the internet or call them directly? Did you pay $195.00 per night - they probably don't discount since it seems to be a very popular bed and breakfast but just curious.
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Old Jun 29th, 2009, 05:20 PM
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I did book through the website and I did pay $195/night. You are right, it does seem to be pretty popular.
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