Big Island & Maui - October 2012
Oct 21st, 2012, 12:03 PM
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Big Island & Maui - October 2012
Just returned from 12 nights in Hawaii – 4 in Kona on the Big Island and 8 in Kaanapali on Maui. We haven’t been to the BI since 2000 and the last time we were in Maui was in May 2003 for my niece’s wedding.
We stayed at the Royal Kona and the Royal Lahaina hotels. Not top of the line resorts, I know, but we like the locations and aren’t really big resort people. And, to me, both have a more traditional Hawaiian feel than some of the other large hotel chains. At the Royal Kona, we had a large corner room with a wrap around lanai. A huge plumeria tree was right outside our window. At the Royal Lahaina, we had one of the garden view cottages. Both rooms have a small fridge and coffee maker.
We flew American Airlines to Kona from Houston via DFW and LAX. Our BFF met us in DFW so there were three of us travelling together. All of our flights left on time. Staff and crew were all polite and our luggage arrived when we did. Not much more you could ask of an airline these days.
It was hot and muggy when we arrived in Kona at around 7:30 PM on Oct 3rd. By the time we got our luggage, picked up our Budget rental car and arrived at the Hotel, we were exhausted. Woke up bright and early the next day and had breakfast by the ocean with the waves crashing into the rocks. Welcome to Hawaii!!
There were a number of athletes in Kona training for the Ironman Triathalon, set to begin on the 13th. The streets were lined with bicyclists and runners and many of the shops were giving a 20% Ironman discount!
The heat was almost unbearable due to the high humidity (almost 80%). Coming from Houston, we are use to the heat and humidity but expected the weather to be cooler in Hawaii in October. And, at home, we stay inside during the heat of the day. From what I understand, there was a low pressure system or some such that had chased away the tradewinds which keep the islands cooler. No relief is expected for several days.
We were disappointed with the meals we had on the BI. Our first day, we had a so-so lunch at Huggo’s on the Rocks but later that evening our BFF became very sick. She thinks it was the Caesar salad dressing at Huggo’s. Fortunately, she felt much better the next day. We also had Fish & Chips at Quinn’s Almost by the Sea and found the beer batter too thick and undercooked in places. Ironically, one of the better meals we had was at Outback our last evening.
One of the highlights of the trip for my DH was his Night Manta Ray snorkel trip. He did the Night Manta Ray Dive last time we were here but since he hadn’t been scuba diving in such a long time, opted to do the snorkel trip instead. He really enjoyed it and said we would have too even though neither of us “girls” are much for water sports.
The next day, we talked to some women who told us about the Rays on the Bay lounge at the Sheraton where the manta rays come to the outside lights after all the boats leave --- usually around 8 – 8:30 PM. For the non divers/snorkelers, it was great. We watched 2 huge mantas feeding for over a half hour. There were several snorkelers in the water with them with lights which helped draw the mantas toward them. Lots of fun and we didn’t even have to get wet!
As a side note to the above, when we arrived at the Sheraton, it made me realize why I don’t like big resort hotels. It was like a maze trying to make our way through the hotel until we found the Rays on the Bay Lounge. We must have walked a mile from the parking lot until we actually found our way! Don’t get me wrong, it’s a lovely hotel, but way too big for my taste.
We drove up to the charming town of Hawi where we had some delicious Tropical Dreams ice cream. While we were there, someone recommended the Bamboo restraurant but we weren’t around for lunch. We walked around some of the shops before continuing on our way to the Wa’ipio Valley.
We visited Hilo Hatties for the requisite tee shirt and souvenirs and shopped along Alii Drive in Kona. Glad I don’t have much room left in the suitcase!
We stayed at the Royal Kona and the Royal Lahaina hotels. Not top of the line resorts, I know, but we like the locations and aren’t really big resort people. And, to me, both have a more traditional Hawaiian feel than some of the other large hotel chains. At the Royal Kona, we had a large corner room with a wrap around lanai. A huge plumeria tree was right outside our window. At the Royal Lahaina, we had one of the garden view cottages. Both rooms have a small fridge and coffee maker.
We flew American Airlines to Kona from Houston via DFW and LAX. Our BFF met us in DFW so there were three of us travelling together. All of our flights left on time. Staff and crew were all polite and our luggage arrived when we did. Not much more you could ask of an airline these days.
It was hot and muggy when we arrived in Kona at around 7:30 PM on Oct 3rd. By the time we got our luggage, picked up our Budget rental car and arrived at the Hotel, we were exhausted. Woke up bright and early the next day and had breakfast by the ocean with the waves crashing into the rocks. Welcome to Hawaii!!
There were a number of athletes in Kona training for the Ironman Triathalon, set to begin on the 13th. The streets were lined with bicyclists and runners and many of the shops were giving a 20% Ironman discount!
The heat was almost unbearable due to the high humidity (almost 80%). Coming from Houston, we are use to the heat and humidity but expected the weather to be cooler in Hawaii in October. And, at home, we stay inside during the heat of the day. From what I understand, there was a low pressure system or some such that had chased away the tradewinds which keep the islands cooler. No relief is expected for several days.
We were disappointed with the meals we had on the BI. Our first day, we had a so-so lunch at Huggo’s on the Rocks but later that evening our BFF became very sick. She thinks it was the Caesar salad dressing at Huggo’s. Fortunately, she felt much better the next day. We also had Fish & Chips at Quinn’s Almost by the Sea and found the beer batter too thick and undercooked in places. Ironically, one of the better meals we had was at Outback our last evening.
One of the highlights of the trip for my DH was his Night Manta Ray snorkel trip. He did the Night Manta Ray Dive last time we were here but since he hadn’t been scuba diving in such a long time, opted to do the snorkel trip instead. He really enjoyed it and said we would have too even though neither of us “girls” are much for water sports.
The next day, we talked to some women who told us about the Rays on the Bay lounge at the Sheraton where the manta rays come to the outside lights after all the boats leave --- usually around 8 – 8:30 PM. For the non divers/snorkelers, it was great. We watched 2 huge mantas feeding for over a half hour. There were several snorkelers in the water with them with lights which helped draw the mantas toward them. Lots of fun and we didn’t even have to get wet!
As a side note to the above, when we arrived at the Sheraton, it made me realize why I don’t like big resort hotels. It was like a maze trying to make our way through the hotel until we found the Rays on the Bay Lounge. We must have walked a mile from the parking lot until we actually found our way! Don’t get me wrong, it’s a lovely hotel, but way too big for my taste.
We drove up to the charming town of Hawi where we had some delicious Tropical Dreams ice cream. While we were there, someone recommended the Bamboo restraurant but we weren’t around for lunch. We walked around some of the shops before continuing on our way to the Wa’ipio Valley.
We visited Hilo Hatties for the requisite tee shirt and souvenirs and shopped along Alii Drive in Kona. Glad I don’t have much room left in the suitcase!
Oct 21st, 2012, 01:36 PM
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What?? No mention of Don's Mai Tai Bar? 
Looking forward to your Maui report as we're planning a trip there next spring. And hoping you are a bit more enthusiastic about your stay there than you were about the Big Island.
Looking forward to your Maui report as we're planning a trip there next spring. And hoping you are a bit more enthusiastic about your stay there than you were about the Big Island.
Oct 21st, 2012, 02:03 PM
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Actually, I did have a Mai Tai at Don's bar with my friend while DH went on his snorkel dive. We watched the sun set and saw the start of the Luau.
And, yes, we definitely had a much better time on Maui!! I think the weather on the Big Island was more of a downer than anything else. Of all our trips to Hawaii, I never remember being hot like we were at the beginning of this trip.
And, yes, we definitely had a much better time on Maui!! I think the weather on the Big Island was more of a downer than anything else. Of all our trips to Hawaii, I never remember being hot like we were at the beginning of this trip.
Oct 21st, 2012, 03:54 PM
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On the 7th, we flew to Maui, arriving mid afternoon. Over the next week, we had some wonderful food, did a little imbibing and visited a few of the sites on this magical island. It was still warm the first couple of days, but finally the tradewinds returned and it was really pleasant, especially early in the day and after about 4 PM in the afternoon.
We had an over the top amazing meal at Mama’s Fish House. The panfried macadamia nut crusted mahi mahi stuffed with lobster and crab was THE BEST meal I’ve had in a long time. And the Kuau Chocolate Pie was sinfully delicious. We had several great meals at Buzz’s Wharf in Ma’alea –both their Tahitian Shrimp and fish & chips (mahi mahi) were delectable – as well as the burger and hula pie we had our first night at Leilani’s. At the Wailea Shops, we had a really juicy, cheesy cheeseburger at Cheeseburger Island Style with some great sweet potato fries! The desserts we had during the week were all fabulous. Thank goodness we split them 3 ways!
Every evening around sunset, the Royal Lahaina has a traditional “torchlighting ceremony” behind their Royal Ocean Terrace restaurant/bar. We would arrive in time to find a good table before happy hour ended at 6 PM. They had some really exciting local entertainment as well. Josh Sumibcay played the first two nights we were there. We were so impressed, we bought his CD, which we love. He played a combination of Hawaiian and contemporary music, having a sort of James Taylor sound. During his Hawaiian songs, a lovely hula dancer would accompany him. This was true as well of the other musician, Kapule. Both were very entertaining and it was quite relaxing watching the sun set as we had a potent Mai Tai or Pina Colada while listening to lovely Hawaiian tunes in the ocean breeze. I don’t know if I would ever get tired of that. Of course, I would go broke long before that point anyway!
On DH’s birthday, we went to Warren & Annabelle’s, a very popular magic show on Front Street in Lahaina. They have two shows each evening and normally sell out every show. I made our reservations in advance over the phone, although you can also book online. The last time we were on Maui, we went to W&A’s. After the show, we talked with Warren about the show, telling him how much we enjoyed it and that this was our 3rd time seeing the show. He was so kind; he gave us a free pass for the next time we visited. So we only had to get one ticket for our BFF. They also serve food as well as drinks and some killer desserts. It really is a wonderful show that is unique in it contains no offensive language yet is howlingly funny. Warren is a hoot and a widely acclaimed magician. DH was in heaven!
My SIL was also on Maui at the same time. She and her husband have a time share at the Marriott in Ka’anapali. We visited their lovely oceanfront condo and had a great Pina Colada (Friday’s) while the sun set, then a light dinner at the Marriott restaurant on the beach. It was very good. Their appetizers were huge and good value. I had two large mac nut crab cakes for $12 and the order of fried calamari was enough for two people.
We visited Haleakala National Park, I’ao Valley State Park, and Hookipa Park; drove north from Ka’anapali to Kapalua past Honolua Bay, as well as south to Wailea/Makena where DH snorkeled at Ulua Beach. We shopped at Whaler’s Village, all along Front Street in Lahaina, and at the Wailea Shopping Center. We also enjoyed visiting the Maui Ocean Center in Ma’alea.
We had an over the top amazing meal at Mama’s Fish House. The panfried macadamia nut crusted mahi mahi stuffed with lobster and crab was THE BEST meal I’ve had in a long time. And the Kuau Chocolate Pie was sinfully delicious. We had several great meals at Buzz’s Wharf in Ma’alea –both their Tahitian Shrimp and fish & chips (mahi mahi) were delectable – as well as the burger and hula pie we had our first night at Leilani’s. At the Wailea Shops, we had a really juicy, cheesy cheeseburger at Cheeseburger Island Style with some great sweet potato fries! The desserts we had during the week were all fabulous. Thank goodness we split them 3 ways!
Every evening around sunset, the Royal Lahaina has a traditional “torchlighting ceremony” behind their Royal Ocean Terrace restaurant/bar. We would arrive in time to find a good table before happy hour ended at 6 PM. They had some really exciting local entertainment as well. Josh Sumibcay played the first two nights we were there. We were so impressed, we bought his CD, which we love. He played a combination of Hawaiian and contemporary music, having a sort of James Taylor sound. During his Hawaiian songs, a lovely hula dancer would accompany him. This was true as well of the other musician, Kapule. Both were very entertaining and it was quite relaxing watching the sun set as we had a potent Mai Tai or Pina Colada while listening to lovely Hawaiian tunes in the ocean breeze. I don’t know if I would ever get tired of that. Of course, I would go broke long before that point anyway!
On DH’s birthday, we went to Warren & Annabelle’s, a very popular magic show on Front Street in Lahaina. They have two shows each evening and normally sell out every show. I made our reservations in advance over the phone, although you can also book online. The last time we were on Maui, we went to W&A’s. After the show, we talked with Warren about the show, telling him how much we enjoyed it and that this was our 3rd time seeing the show. He was so kind; he gave us a free pass for the next time we visited. So we only had to get one ticket for our BFF. They also serve food as well as drinks and some killer desserts. It really is a wonderful show that is unique in it contains no offensive language yet is howlingly funny. Warren is a hoot and a widely acclaimed magician. DH was in heaven!
My SIL was also on Maui at the same time. She and her husband have a time share at the Marriott in Ka’anapali. We visited their lovely oceanfront condo and had a great Pina Colada (Friday’s) while the sun set, then a light dinner at the Marriott restaurant on the beach. It was very good. Their appetizers were huge and good value. I had two large mac nut crab cakes for $12 and the order of fried calamari was enough for two people.
We visited Haleakala National Park, I’ao Valley State Park, and Hookipa Park; drove north from Ka’anapali to Kapalua past Honolua Bay, as well as south to Wailea/Makena where DH snorkeled at Ulua Beach. We shopped at Whaler’s Village, all along Front Street in Lahaina, and at the Wailea Shopping Center. We also enjoyed visiting the Maui Ocean Center in Ma’alea.
Oct 22nd, 2012, 06:41 AM
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We really enjoyed our time on Maui, especially after the weather cooled off. I never grow tired of that blue, clear water with the islands of Molakai and Lanai off in the distance. Or the green velvet covered mountains looking across the Ka’anapali golf course. We even had a couple of days where we saw a vivid rainbow before sunset.
If you stay in Ka’anapali, or happen to be close to Whaler’s Village on Monday, Wednesday or Saturday, do yourself a favor and go see their Hula Show. It was the most fun we had on the island. Watching adults, teens, preteens and little ones keeping their culture alive in traditional costumes was a delight!
We left Maui after one last lunch at Leilani’s, including another Hula Pie, and headed to Honolulu where we would catch our flight back to DFW and then IAH. I had used AA award miles for these tickets and was only able to get 3 seats together from HNL but was able to get Business Class so that was a great way to end our vacation.
Again, all flights left and arrived on time and airline personnel were polite and professional. We even managed to sleep a couple of hours on our overnight flight.
If you stay in Ka’anapali, or happen to be close to Whaler’s Village on Monday, Wednesday or Saturday, do yourself a favor and go see their Hula Show. It was the most fun we had on the island. Watching adults, teens, preteens and little ones keeping their culture alive in traditional costumes was a delight!
We left Maui after one last lunch at Leilani’s, including another Hula Pie, and headed to Honolulu where we would catch our flight back to DFW and then IAH. I had used AA award miles for these tickets and was only able to get 3 seats together from HNL but was able to get Business Class so that was a great way to end our vacation.
Again, all flights left and arrived on time and airline personnel were polite and professional. We even managed to sleep a couple of hours on our overnight flight.
Oct 22nd, 2012, 04:08 PM
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We flew American to Italy last year and had excellent service, etc. That was before they filed for bankruptcy however, so I am glad to hear that they are still holding it together. Thanks for your trip report. I also love Maui. Here is an old thread about loving Maui.
http://www.fodors.com/community/unit...about-maui.cfm
http://www.fodors.com/community/unit...about-maui.cfm
Oct 23rd, 2012, 07:34 AM
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Thanks for the more encouraging Maui report, bettyk, particularly the mention of the Royal Ocean Terrace and Whaler's Village. One of my Hawaii "musts" is seeing/enjoying hula, and I prefer the kinds of experiences you had over any big commercial production. If you have any specific suggestions/recommendations for someone who'll be staying a bit north of where you were (just south of Napili), I'm all ea...errr eyes.
Oct 23rd, 2012, 09:54 AM
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I was asking more about free hula shows/entertainment, bettyk. But, since you offered , I'm also hoping to find a go-to place for drinks and pupus near where we'll be, preferably within walking distance. Which might be kinda tough, since we're staying in Kahana.
As for activities, I enjoyed some of the same ones your husband did on Hawaii (you really SHOULD have done the nighttime Manta Ray snorkel with him). On Maui, I'm thinking about a day sail/snorkel excursion to Lanai and a sunset sail. Much of the rest of the time, I'll be seen snorkeling off a beach somewhere.
, I'm also hoping to find a go-to place for drinks and pupus near where we'll be, preferably within walking distance. Which might be kinda tough, since we're staying in Kahana.As for activities, I enjoyed some of the same ones your husband did on Hawaii (you really SHOULD have done the nighttime Manta Ray snorkel with him). On Maui, I'm thinking about a day sail/snorkel excursion to Lanai and a sunset sail. Much of the rest of the time, I'll be seen snorkeling off a beach somewhere.
Oct 23rd, 2012, 10:29 AM
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Can't help you with go to places in Kahana but I'm sure other Fodorites will.
The only free hula show we've seen is the one at Whaler's Village. There are alot of great places along the beach by
Whaler's such as Hula Grill, Leilani's and the Marriott where you can sit outside, watch the sunset and have a drink and a meal or just appetizers. It's a beautiful stretch of beach and you can park in the garage at Whaler's. You get 3 hrs free parking with validation from one of the shops or restaurants.
We've done the snorkel trip to Lanai years ago and loved it. We've never done a sunset sail however.
My husband went snorkeling at Ulua Beach near Wailea on this trip and it's a very nice park. There is a restroom and outside showers. There's a little reef right off the beach where he saw alot of different fish as well as a large turtle.
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractio...ui_Hawaii.html
http://www.to-hawaii.com/maui/beaches/uluabeach.php
While it doesn't have the amenities of a beach park, the snorkeling at Honolua Bay is worth the trip. It's just a beautiful bay with alot of different fish species and calm, clear water.
http://www.hawaiisnorkelingguide.com/honolua_bay.html
The only free hula show we've seen is the one at Whaler's Village. There are alot of great places along the beach by
Whaler's such as Hula Grill, Leilani's and the Marriott where you can sit outside, watch the sunset and have a drink and a meal or just appetizers. It's a beautiful stretch of beach and you can park in the garage at Whaler's. You get 3 hrs free parking with validation from one of the shops or restaurants.
We've done the snorkel trip to Lanai years ago and loved it. We've never done a sunset sail however.
My husband went snorkeling at Ulua Beach near Wailea on this trip and it's a very nice park. There is a restroom and outside showers. There's a little reef right off the beach where he saw alot of different fish as well as a large turtle.
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractio...ui_Hawaii.html
http://www.to-hawaii.com/maui/beaches/uluabeach.php
While it doesn't have the amenities of a beach park, the snorkeling at Honolua Bay is worth the trip. It's just a beautiful bay with alot of different fish species and calm, clear water.
http://www.hawaiisnorkelingguide.com/honolua_bay.html
Oct 25th, 2012, 03:14 AM
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Anytime of year a weather system can disturb the normal tradewinds. I would say Bettys experience(subjectively high humidity from a Houston POV) is rare, even when the trades die. The most vunerable area will be Kona with its propensity for VOG trapping that heat.
Oct 25th, 2012, 09:29 AM
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You are right, Frank. There was a problem with VOG (volcanic air pollution), which is probably why it was so miserable.
Didn't even realize this was a big deal until we started listening to the weather forecasts on the island.
http://www.konaweb.com/vog/index.shtml
Didn't even realize this was a big deal until we started listening to the weather forecasts on the island.
http://www.konaweb.com/vog/index.shtml
