Big Island Bound! (Or am I?!)
Sep 19th, 2007 | 05:32 AM
#1
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Joined: Feb 2003
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Big Island Bound! (Or am I?!)
Okay, I think I've finally chosen which island to vacation on after meeting up with DH after his conference in Honolulu. I want to split our stay on BI, four nights in a B&B style accommodation on the Hilo side and ending with 4 nights at Kona VIllage. Hey--it's our anniversary and we want to end the trip with a splurge! We'll be going the end of June, 2008.
I have a few follow up questions for you BI experts. Anybody recommend the sunset-stargazing extravaganza on Mauna Kea? From what I read rental cars aren't allowed up there, so is there a particular company to make arrangements through that will do a good job?
Is Hilo prounounced Hee-Lo? I assume so, but I swear everytime I read it I say High-Low in my head.
Do you think it's best to stay in or close to Hilo? Because the B&B that has caught my eye the most is Waianuhea, which seems quite far removed from everything. Our first half of the trip we plan to explore like mad, so we don't mind driving for that, but having to drive an hour for dinner every night might not be our favorite thing. Is there anything for dining out in the immediate area of Waianuhea?
Okay, next: are the caverns of fire interesting or mostly hokey? The website makes it look like it could go either way.
Volcanos National Park -- if we can't get near the lava flow, how much time would you recommend spending here? If by June 2008 the lava will be accessible by a hike, is it more interesting to do it by daylight or at night? If the lava is now accessible on foot next year, would you recommend a helicopter tour to see it? Would you recommend a helicopter tour anyway, regardless of the lava situation?
Are there are other B&B's closer to Hilo that you think I shouldn't miss out on instead of making the trek each day up to Waianuhea? More to the point, are there places not listed in the Fodor's guide (the only one I have right now) that I should be checking out? I started reading TripAdvisor but there's so much ranting and raving there that it's sometimes hard to separate the wheat from the chaff.
Anyway, many thanks for your suggestions. If I need to provide more information, please let me know.
I have a few follow up questions for you BI experts. Anybody recommend the sunset-stargazing extravaganza on Mauna Kea? From what I read rental cars aren't allowed up there, so is there a particular company to make arrangements through that will do a good job?
Is Hilo prounounced Hee-Lo? I assume so, but I swear everytime I read it I say High-Low in my head.
Do you think it's best to stay in or close to Hilo? Because the B&B that has caught my eye the most is Waianuhea, which seems quite far removed from everything. Our first half of the trip we plan to explore like mad, so we don't mind driving for that, but having to drive an hour for dinner every night might not be our favorite thing. Is there anything for dining out in the immediate area of Waianuhea?
Okay, next: are the caverns of fire interesting or mostly hokey? The website makes it look like it could go either way.
Volcanos National Park -- if we can't get near the lava flow, how much time would you recommend spending here? If by June 2008 the lava will be accessible by a hike, is it more interesting to do it by daylight or at night? If the lava is now accessible on foot next year, would you recommend a helicopter tour to see it? Would you recommend a helicopter tour anyway, regardless of the lava situation?
Are there are other B&B's closer to Hilo that you think I shouldn't miss out on instead of making the trek each day up to Waianuhea? More to the point, are there places not listed in the Fodor's guide (the only one I have right now) that I should be checking out? I started reading TripAdvisor but there's so much ranting and raving there that it's sometimes hard to separate the wheat from the chaff.
Anyway, many thanks for your suggestions. If I need to provide more information, please let me know.
Sep 19th, 2007 | 08:40 AM
#3
Joined: Apr 2004
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If you decide to stay at Waianuhea (something I have always wanted to do), you will be about 30 minutes from Waimea which has some fine restaurants-Merrimans http://www.merrimanshawaii.com/; Huli Sue's http://www.hulisues.com/ and Daniel Thiebaut's http://www.danielthiebaut.com/about.html. If you want to eat at a more local place, try Tex Drive-In in Honoka'a--plate lunches, burgers, wraps and malasadas. http://www.texdrivein.com/
It is pronounced Hee-lo.
When we go to the east side of the BI, we always rent a house in Kapoho (which is about 45 minutes from Volcano--FYI http://www.lagoonhouse.com/ is the house we're renting in Feb)so can't advise you about B&B's in Hilo area.
If you want a luxury inn closer to Hilo, check out the Palm Cliffs House http://www.palmscliffhouse.com/.
It is pronounced Hee-lo.
When we go to the east side of the BI, we always rent a house in Kapoho (which is about 45 minutes from Volcano--FYI http://www.lagoonhouse.com/ is the house we're renting in Feb)so can't advise you about B&B's in Hilo area.
If you want a luxury inn closer to Hilo, check out the Palm Cliffs House http://www.palmscliffhouse.com/.
Sep 19th, 2007 | 09:09 AM
#4
Joined: May 2005
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You can do the stargazing with Arnott's. www.arnottslodge.com They run very good adventure tours.
Hee-lo
You could see everything in Hilo in less than a day, so if you like the Waianuhea, then stay there. Saturday and Wednesday are the days the Hilo Farmer's Market is open, so plan a trip to town on one of those days.
Never done the caverns of fire (I live here and have never heard of it, but just did check the website) sounds interesting.
The park, if no flowto hike to, then 3-4 hours is enough time to spend there. If the flow is accessible, night time is the best. Plan on getting to the lava at sunset and hike back in the dark.
You will most likely see the red stuff from the helicopter, but who knows what Pele will do next June.
Don't know about b&b's since I live here, don't need them but I'm sure you'll get more responses. But as martym posted, the Palms Cliff House is supposed to be great.
Hee-lo
You could see everything in Hilo in less than a day, so if you like the Waianuhea, then stay there. Saturday and Wednesday are the days the Hilo Farmer's Market is open, so plan a trip to town on one of those days.
Never done the caverns of fire (I live here and have never heard of it, but just did check the website) sounds interesting.
The park, if no flowto hike to, then 3-4 hours is enough time to spend there. If the flow is accessible, night time is the best. Plan on getting to the lava at sunset and hike back in the dark.
You will most likely see the red stuff from the helicopter, but who knows what Pele will do next June.
Don't know about b&b's since I live here, don't need them but I'm sure you'll get more responses. But as martym posted, the Palms Cliff House is supposed to be great.
Sep 19th, 2007 | 10:18 AM
#5
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 33
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Ejcrowe,
It is pronounced Hee-Low, basically. (I was born and raised there).
Waianuhea while gorgeous is FAR from everything. Tex’s is right there, and Honokaa, but not much else. It is about 15 minutes to Waimea and as another poster pointed out there are some high end restaurants there. I would recommend staying somewhere closer to the attractions you wish to see. From Waianuhea to Hilo is only about 45 miles but can take as long as an hour and a half, depending on traffic, weather and construction. Right now there are only two spots along the way that are reduced to one lane – both are controlled by portable stop lights.
If you wish to stay in Hilo check out the Shipman House or the Emeraldview.
Never did the caverns of fire so I cannot say.
Kona Village is amazing, getting a little older now but still great. Keep in mind no AC, no phones and no TV – though I never once missed it when I was there. Best luau on the island.
Mauna Kea – you are correct, all rental vehicles are prohibited beyond the visitor’s center and it is unsafe to drive further. There are several good tours, but check the moon phase for when you will be there. If not a new moon it might be a washout. I recommend either Mauna Kea Summit Adventures, or Hawaii Forest and Trail (BTW – HFT I can recommend ANY of their offerings). I do not recommend Arnotts.
HVNP: There is no way of knowing, check the updates periodically and as your trip gets closer decide what you want to do.
http://hvo.wr.usgs.gov/kilauea/update/images.html
Usually the helo tours are the best way to see the volcano, there isn’t a good and safe way to hike to lava, especially now that the flow has moved from Pu’u O’o. I usually recommend the around the island helo, as it includes the Hamakua coast and the waterfalls of the Kohala mountains. Expensive but worth it, but two hours in a helo is not for everyone, for sure.
Good luck and happy travels!
It is pronounced Hee-Low, basically. (I was born and raised there).
Waianuhea while gorgeous is FAR from everything. Tex’s is right there, and Honokaa, but not much else. It is about 15 minutes to Waimea and as another poster pointed out there are some high end restaurants there. I would recommend staying somewhere closer to the attractions you wish to see. From Waianuhea to Hilo is only about 45 miles but can take as long as an hour and a half, depending on traffic, weather and construction. Right now there are only two spots along the way that are reduced to one lane – both are controlled by portable stop lights.
If you wish to stay in Hilo check out the Shipman House or the Emeraldview.
Never did the caverns of fire so I cannot say.
Kona Village is amazing, getting a little older now but still great. Keep in mind no AC, no phones and no TV – though I never once missed it when I was there. Best luau on the island.
Mauna Kea – you are correct, all rental vehicles are prohibited beyond the visitor’s center and it is unsafe to drive further. There are several good tours, but check the moon phase for when you will be there. If not a new moon it might be a washout. I recommend either Mauna Kea Summit Adventures, or Hawaii Forest and Trail (BTW – HFT I can recommend ANY of their offerings). I do not recommend Arnotts.
HVNP: There is no way of knowing, check the updates periodically and as your trip gets closer decide what you want to do.
http://hvo.wr.usgs.gov/kilauea/update/images.html
Usually the helo tours are the best way to see the volcano, there isn’t a good and safe way to hike to lava, especially now that the flow has moved from Pu’u O’o. I usually recommend the around the island helo, as it includes the Hamakua coast and the waterfalls of the Kohala mountains. Expensive but worth it, but two hours in a helo is not for everyone, for sure.
Good luck and happy travels!
Sep 19th, 2007 | 06:15 PM
#7
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Joined: Feb 2003
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Thanks--these are all great tips. I have a few more questions...
Can you catch a really good sunset from the visitor's center or do you have to go with a tour company all the way to the top to see it? Which side of the mountain is the visitor's center on?
Driving 15-30 minutes every night for four nights for dinner is just fine. We're very happy with small local places like Tex's, so if there are more places to recommend in Honoka'a, I'd love to know about them. Reading more about Waianuhea has me just about convinced that it's the place I want to stay. We'll be exploring in our car every day that we're there--I won't mind being on the go all the time because we're ending our trip with total relaxation time.
Are there any gentle walks that would take us through beautiful scenery? Also any gentle walks that would lead to waterfalls? Maybe even swimmable waterfalls? My husband has a bad knee that doesn't tolerate a lot of uphill/downhill terrain. We can take long walks, just not a lot of vertical climb.
martym, that Lagoon House looks great! Imagine your own private snorkeling pond--I'd just love that. I may have to rethink the B&B route--that's the problem. I see something I love and then the following day I see something completely different that I also totally love. Clearly I'm going to have to tell my boss that I need a leave of absence just to properly see the Big Island.
Glad to read more kudos about Kona Village. The fact that the rooms have no tv, phones, or a/c was part of what drew me to it. Our favorite places in the Caribbean are like that. Being without a/c doesn't really bother me. If we decide to super-splurge and get a Royal hale, is there a particular area to request when making a reservation? It looks like they line the sand beach and the black lava shoreline--is one end better than the other for views, privacy, or catching the tradewinds?
There seem to be a LOT of botanical gardens on this island. Which ones should we priortize? The Japanese one sounds intriguing to me--what about the others?
Many thanks for your continued input. I really appreciate it. I'm a rather obssessive poster over on the Caribbean board, so if I can ever reciprocate, please let me know.
ej
Can you catch a really good sunset from the visitor's center or do you have to go with a tour company all the way to the top to see it? Which side of the mountain is the visitor's center on?
Driving 15-30 minutes every night for four nights for dinner is just fine. We're very happy with small local places like Tex's, so if there are more places to recommend in Honoka'a, I'd love to know about them. Reading more about Waianuhea has me just about convinced that it's the place I want to stay. We'll be exploring in our car every day that we're there--I won't mind being on the go all the time because we're ending our trip with total relaxation time.
Are there any gentle walks that would take us through beautiful scenery? Also any gentle walks that would lead to waterfalls? Maybe even swimmable waterfalls? My husband has a bad knee that doesn't tolerate a lot of uphill/downhill terrain. We can take long walks, just not a lot of vertical climb.
martym, that Lagoon House looks great! Imagine your own private snorkeling pond--I'd just love that. I may have to rethink the B&B route--that's the problem. I see something I love and then the following day I see something completely different that I also totally love. Clearly I'm going to have to tell my boss that I need a leave of absence just to properly see the Big Island.
Glad to read more kudos about Kona Village. The fact that the rooms have no tv, phones, or a/c was part of what drew me to it. Our favorite places in the Caribbean are like that. Being without a/c doesn't really bother me. If we decide to super-splurge and get a Royal hale, is there a particular area to request when making a reservation? It looks like they line the sand beach and the black lava shoreline--is one end better than the other for views, privacy, or catching the tradewinds?
There seem to be a LOT of botanical gardens on this island. Which ones should we priortize? The Japanese one sounds intriguing to me--what about the others?
Many thanks for your continued input. I really appreciate it. I'm a rather obssessive poster over on the Caribbean board, so if I can ever reciprocate, please let me know.
ej
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Sep 20th, 2007 | 02:18 AM
#8
Joined: Feb 2004
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1. The Visitor's Center on Mauna Kea is surrounded by taller mountains, so no horizon sunset is visible from the Center. For a summit tour I second the recommendation for Mauna Kea Summit Adventures or Hawaii Forest and Trail over Arnott's.
2. Waianuhea is one of my favorite B&B's, not just on the island but in the entire state. However, you can throw a stone from one end of Honokaa to the other, so don't look for any kind of fine dining here. Bamboo Restaurant in Hawi (pronounced hah-VEE) is not far from Honokaa, as are several excellent restaurants in Waimea (Merriman's etc), and Cafe Pesto in Kawaihae.
The walk to Akaka Falls is short but involves several sets of stairs. Rainbow Falls, just north of Hilo is right off the highway and is much more accessible, although much less spectacular. Also check out Hawaii Tropical Botanical Gardens in Onomea: one set of steep steps and the rest is moreless level.
2. Waianuhea is one of my favorite B&B's, not just on the island but in the entire state. However, you can throw a stone from one end of Honokaa to the other, so don't look for any kind of fine dining here. Bamboo Restaurant in Hawi (pronounced hah-VEE) is not far from Honokaa, as are several excellent restaurants in Waimea (Merriman's etc), and Cafe Pesto in Kawaihae.
The walk to Akaka Falls is short but involves several sets of stairs. Rainbow Falls, just north of Hilo is right off the highway and is much more accessible, although much less spectacular. Also check out Hawaii Tropical Botanical Gardens in Onomea: one set of steep steps and the rest is moreless level.
Sep 20th, 2007 | 05:09 AM
#9
Joined: Apr 2004
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I second the Hawaiian Tropical Botanic Gardens--they have they most gorgeous setting on Omomea Bay. We we were last there they had golf carts that would bring you back up the the visitors center if you didn't want to walk. Also when driving to Volcano from Hilo, stop at Akatsuka's Orchids. It's a greenhouse with the most incredible collection of orchids--some for sale--plus clean restrooms.
If you do decide to stay in Kapoho, have dinner at Paolo's in Pahoa--it's run by a Tuscan chef so the food is gooood and it's BYOB.
The drive to Hawi is one of my favorites on the island. I like to go to Kawaihae then take the highway up the coast. I like the way the scenery changes from dry and brown to lush and green as you turn east. You can also see Haleakala on Maui from that road. You can drive on past Hawi to the end of the road to the Pololu Valley overlook. Returning, take the highway south from Hawi over the Kohala mountains--great view of the Pacific from up there and a fantastic view of Mauna Kea and you begin to descend into Waimea.
If you do decide to stay in Kapoho, have dinner at Paolo's in Pahoa--it's run by a Tuscan chef so the food is gooood and it's BYOB.
The drive to Hawi is one of my favorites on the island. I like to go to Kawaihae then take the highway up the coast. I like the way the scenery changes from dry and brown to lush and green as you turn east. You can also see Haleakala on Maui from that road. You can drive on past Hawi to the end of the road to the Pololu Valley overlook. Returning, take the highway south from Hawi over the Kohala mountains--great view of the Pacific from up there and a fantastic view of Mauna Kea and you begin to descend into Waimea.
Sep 20th, 2007 | 05:39 AM
#10
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,336
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Great advice here already but I'll add that it's best to go left when you get to Akaka Falls and retrace your steps after seeing the main falls rather than do the suggested loop as the other falls are not as impressive and the trail is more than double the length.
The Tropical botanical gardens are gorgeous www.htbg.com but it's very steep at the start so do take the golf cart down if you have bad knees! It's possible to reach the beach at the bottom (you have to exit and can reenter the garden) but it's not swimmable. The waves were quite rough while we were there but it's worth a photo!
Oodles of Noodles was my favorite lunch spot, it's in Kona near Safeway.
The Tropical botanical gardens are gorgeous www.htbg.com but it's very steep at the start so do take the golf cart down if you have bad knees! It's possible to reach the beach at the bottom (you have to exit and can reenter the garden) but it's not swimmable. The waves were quite rough while we were there but it's worth a photo!
Oodles of Noodles was my favorite lunch spot, it's in Kona near Safeway.
Sep 20th, 2007 | 11:32 AM
#11
Joined: Apr 2005
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I cannot agree with skipping Kahuna Falls at Akaka Falls State Park.
Kahuna Falls is not as nice as Akaka Falls, but the entire loop trail that includes both waterfalls is only 4/10 of a mile. Kahuna Falls is a nice waterfall.
The loop trail is about 1/10 of a mile longer than going straight to Akaka Falls & then back to the parking lot.
Lots of info. There are about 10 sites that are good for all islands as well as one for Big Island:
http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...1&tid=34812564
Just skip over the Oahu info.
Kahuna Falls is not as nice as Akaka Falls, but the entire loop trail that includes both waterfalls is only 4/10 of a mile. Kahuna Falls is a nice waterfall.
The loop trail is about 1/10 of a mile longer than going straight to Akaka Falls & then back to the parking lot.
Lots of info. There are about 10 sites that are good for all islands as well as one for Big Island:
http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...1&tid=34812564
Just skip over the Oahu info.
Sep 21st, 2007 | 11:37 AM
#13
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,870
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Wow, that one thread had lots of great info on it. Thanks for posting it here!
I appreciate the recs on the easy walks. Can anybody now recommend places to start for making a great picnic lunch? Nice delis?
Can we drink in public in Hawaii? If we wanted to take a bottle of wine on a picnic, is that okay?
I appreciate the recs on the easy walks. Can anybody now recommend places to start for making a great picnic lunch? Nice delis?
Can we drink in public in Hawaii? If we wanted to take a bottle of wine on a picnic, is that okay?
Sep 21st, 2007 | 08:53 PM
#14
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 872
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Hi ej...
When we were last on the Big Island we brought this audio CD that we had purchased in advance, to play in the car.
http://www.bigislandaudiotour.com/
Unlike the Captain Aloha one they have for the road to Hana on Maui (that one was a hoot!), the BI Audio Tour is more "educational" than "entertaining", but we enjoyed it.
Also, have you thought about buying some nice Hawaiian music to get you "in the mood" for your upcoming trip? I know there are some good threads here on Fodor's with Hawaiian music recommendations.
Carole
When we were last on the Big Island we brought this audio CD that we had purchased in advance, to play in the car.
http://www.bigislandaudiotour.com/
Unlike the Captain Aloha one they have for the road to Hana on Maui (that one was a hoot!), the BI Audio Tour is more "educational" than "entertaining", but we enjoyed it.
Also, have you thought about buying some nice Hawaiian music to get you "in the mood" for your upcoming trip? I know there are some good threads here on Fodor's with Hawaiian music recommendations.
Carole
Sep 22nd, 2007 | 05:11 AM
#15
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Joined: Feb 2003
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Hi, Carole--
Thanks for the audio suggestion. I definitely would never have come up with that on my own. DH and I enjoy listening to audio books on long car trips, so perhaps listening to the educational one will ease the travel times we're looking at every day in our day trips.
And no, haven't thought of putting together a mood soundtrack for our trip. another good idea! The only Hawaiian music we have is one of IZ's cd's, featuring the ever-so-ubiquitous-but-it-still-makes-me-cry Somewhere Over the Rainbow and What a Wonderful World mix.
Thanks for the audio suggestion. I definitely would never have come up with that on my own. DH and I enjoy listening to audio books on long car trips, so perhaps listening to the educational one will ease the travel times we're looking at every day in our day trips.
And no, haven't thought of putting together a mood soundtrack for our trip. another good idea! The only Hawaiian music we have is one of IZ's cd's, featuring the ever-so-ubiquitous-but-it-still-makes-me-cry Somewhere Over the Rainbow and What a Wonderful World mix.
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