Barbara and Jeri's trip to St. Augustine, Charleston, and Savannah
Oct 12th, 2011, 09:43 AM
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I wish I'd known you were going to stop on Savannah Highway, There's a great restaurant out there called Glass Onion. I just got back from having lunch there- homemade sausage links, braised kale, sweet potato casserole (no marshmellows) and a deviled egg. The BEST.
Oct 12th, 2011, 09:58 AM
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Hey, Sue--We'll file this away. This whole trip was fast, an overview trip. Next time through, and there will be a next time, we'll slow our pace. So many things out there to savor, including restaurant finds and fine dining. Also, we will be looking into theater and cultural events. Always nice to have something to look forward to.
Oct 12th, 2011, 10:23 AM
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CHARLESTON (continued)
Our first full day in Charleston.
We loved our room at the Mills House. It looked down on a little courtyard and over the pool, but more, it looked out over rooftops to the steeple of St. Michael’s Church, which steeple, along with the bells, figured so prominently in the Jakes book that I felt I knew it.
http://www.charlestonharbortours.com...0&CategoryID=0
We were out the door by 9:00 taking photos of the church and the other buildings around the hotel which form the Four Corners of Law (intersection of Broad Street and Meeting Street). The plan dates back to 1680. On the northeast corner is the Charleston City Hall (local/municipal law); on the northwest corner is The County Courthouse (state law); on the southwest corner is the U.S. Courthouse and Post Office (federal law), and on the remaining corner is St. Michaels (God’s law). I may have the compass points mixed up, but you know what I mean.
Our DASH stop was also at this intersection, and when the trolley came we got on and were on our way back to the Visitors Center. We needed to meet Alfonso Brown at a point across from the Center for our Gullah tour at 11:00, but before that we wanted to stop into the Center to inquire about the Heritage Pass. This is a very good deal in our opinion. For $45 you get a 2 day pass for entrance into nine sites—Drayton Hall, Middleton Place (gardens and stable yards), Heyward- Washington House, Edmondston-Alston House, Nathaniel Russell House, Aiken-Rhett House, Joseph Manigault House, Gibbes Museum of Art, and Charleston Museum.
Click on http://charlestonheritagefederation.org/passport.html for further information.
We did go ahead and purchase the passport, and at the end of the day we were happy with it with one exception. Our timing was off, and I’ll explain about that later.
Getting back to our Gullah tour with Alfonso Brown--this was fantastic, one of the highlights of our trip. (Thank you, Suewoo, for giving us so many suggestions as we were preparing for our trip and especially for making us aware of Alfonso Brown).
“Gullah” was a term I was unfamiliar with before this trip. I know now that it refers to the language and culture that developed from the earliest days in the slave communities of Coastal South Carolina and Georgia. There are many internet sources regarding Gullah, one of which can be reached by clicking on the following:
http://www.coastalguide.com/gullah/
Especially informative, though, is Alfonso Brown’s Gullah Tours website which can be accessed by clicking on www.gullahtours.com. This contains wonderful information, and it will lead to you a booking page should you decide you would like a tour. If you have even the slightest interest in the Gullah culture, do book! You won’t be sorry.
In the movie we saw on our first day at the Visitors Center, there was special attention given to a blacksmith by the name of Philip Simmons. Blacksmith? Ha! An artist in the fullest sense of the word. World renowned for his iron gates and grilles, but humble and generous. Part of the Gullah tour included a visit to the small house where Phillip Simmons lived most of his adult life, even after he became famous. Alfonso also took us into his workshop in a little building behind the house. Although Simmons became a rich man, he kept next to nothing for himself but contributed heavily to charitable endeavors. Sent lots of kids to college among other things. What an incredible individual.
We returned from the tour about 1:00 PM, and then is when it hit us that we had bought our Heritage Passports too early. We had purchased them that morning and since they were only 2 day passports, starting from the time they were purchased, it dawned on us that we were getting a late start on those two days, only a day and a half being left to us to use them. We should have waited until the next morning to buy them so we would have two full days to use them, but…..Oh, well……
We quickly reorganized our plans, got our car out of the parking structure and headed out to the two passport sites which were out of town along the Ashley River Road-- Drayton Hall and Middleton Place.
We picked up a quick lunch along the way, eating our sandwiches as we drove along, and we arrived at Drayton Hall by about 2:00.
Drayton Hall. What a beautiful entry road to this old plantation, and what beautiful grounds.
We arrived just in time for an interactive activity which is offered three times each day—Connections: From Africa to America. This outlines the sad journeys of those who were once free in their own land but who were captured, put on slave ships in deplorable conditions, only to have before them a life of servitude upon arrival at their destination in the new world.
After the Connections activity, a docent came and gave us a tour of the house. She was exceptional. And, in truth, all our docents were, both in Charleston and in Savannah, and, of course, we can’t forget Sam in St. Augustine.
Drayton Hall is a preserved house rather than a restored one. There are no furnishings; the concentration is on the architecture.
Click on www.draytonhall.org for details not only of the house but of the beautiful grounds.
I wish we had been able to do the self-guided marsh walk or the river walk. I’m sure that either would have been an amazing experience; the grounds were so lovely. But as I mentioned, we had planned poorly regarding the Heritage Passport, and we were pressed for time; we still had Middleton Place to visit down the road and it was getting close to the time when they would be closing their entry gate.
On the way, I made a call to the Middleton Place Restaurant asking how strict their dress code was (No dress code, I was told, and that was good; we were decently dressed but in casual clothing) and if they were able to take a reservation for us for 6:30 (Yes, there were openings).
We got to the entry about 4:30, and that gave us two hours to enjoy the grounds before going to the restaurant for dinner. It was still a long summer day, plenty of light despite the hour, and though there wasn’t a riot of color, and how spectacular that must be when plants are in bloom, the greenery was lush. The Spanish moss hanging from large oaks, the pathways along the river, the reflecting ponds, all of that made for a lovely walk, a peaceful respite at the end of a busy day.
And dinner at the restaurant was amazing. It was hard to make a choice, the menu was so good and varied, but both Jeri and I finally settled on their special—wreckfish, a local fish, we were told, on a bed of baby succotash. Hot crusty bread. She-crab soup. A great bottle of wine. All was good.
Click on www.middletonplace.org for information. Don’t miss the website’s section on the restaurant. Photos are posted which show the spectacular setting, and a menu can be downloaded.
Except for having to cut short our time at Drayton Hall, it all added up to a most satisfying day.
To be continued
Our first full day in Charleston.
We loved our room at the Mills House. It looked down on a little courtyard and over the pool, but more, it looked out over rooftops to the steeple of St. Michael’s Church, which steeple, along with the bells, figured so prominently in the Jakes book that I felt I knew it.
http://www.charlestonharbortours.com...0&CategoryID=0
We were out the door by 9:00 taking photos of the church and the other buildings around the hotel which form the Four Corners of Law (intersection of Broad Street and Meeting Street). The plan dates back to 1680. On the northeast corner is the Charleston City Hall (local/municipal law); on the northwest corner is The County Courthouse (state law); on the southwest corner is the U.S. Courthouse and Post Office (federal law), and on the remaining corner is St. Michaels (God’s law). I may have the compass points mixed up, but you know what I mean.
Our DASH stop was also at this intersection, and when the trolley came we got on and were on our way back to the Visitors Center. We needed to meet Alfonso Brown at a point across from the Center for our Gullah tour at 11:00, but before that we wanted to stop into the Center to inquire about the Heritage Pass. This is a very good deal in our opinion. For $45 you get a 2 day pass for entrance into nine sites—Drayton Hall, Middleton Place (gardens and stable yards), Heyward- Washington House, Edmondston-Alston House, Nathaniel Russell House, Aiken-Rhett House, Joseph Manigault House, Gibbes Museum of Art, and Charleston Museum.
Click on http://charlestonheritagefederation.org/passport.html for further information.
We did go ahead and purchase the passport, and at the end of the day we were happy with it with one exception. Our timing was off, and I’ll explain about that later.
Getting back to our Gullah tour with Alfonso Brown--this was fantastic, one of the highlights of our trip. (Thank you, Suewoo, for giving us so many suggestions as we were preparing for our trip and especially for making us aware of Alfonso Brown).
“Gullah” was a term I was unfamiliar with before this trip. I know now that it refers to the language and culture that developed from the earliest days in the slave communities of Coastal South Carolina and Georgia. There are many internet sources regarding Gullah, one of which can be reached by clicking on the following:
http://www.coastalguide.com/gullah/
Especially informative, though, is Alfonso Brown’s Gullah Tours website which can be accessed by clicking on www.gullahtours.com. This contains wonderful information, and it will lead to you a booking page should you decide you would like a tour. If you have even the slightest interest in the Gullah culture, do book! You won’t be sorry.
In the movie we saw on our first day at the Visitors Center, there was special attention given to a blacksmith by the name of Philip Simmons. Blacksmith? Ha! An artist in the fullest sense of the word. World renowned for his iron gates and grilles, but humble and generous. Part of the Gullah tour included a visit to the small house where Phillip Simmons lived most of his adult life, even after he became famous. Alfonso also took us into his workshop in a little building behind the house. Although Simmons became a rich man, he kept next to nothing for himself but contributed heavily to charitable endeavors. Sent lots of kids to college among other things. What an incredible individual.
We returned from the tour about 1:00 PM, and then is when it hit us that we had bought our Heritage Passports too early. We had purchased them that morning and since they were only 2 day passports, starting from the time they were purchased, it dawned on us that we were getting a late start on those two days, only a day and a half being left to us to use them. We should have waited until the next morning to buy them so we would have two full days to use them, but…..Oh, well……
We quickly reorganized our plans, got our car out of the parking structure and headed out to the two passport sites which were out of town along the Ashley River Road-- Drayton Hall and Middleton Place.
We picked up a quick lunch along the way, eating our sandwiches as we drove along, and we arrived at Drayton Hall by about 2:00.
Drayton Hall. What a beautiful entry road to this old plantation, and what beautiful grounds.
We arrived just in time for an interactive activity which is offered three times each day—Connections: From Africa to America. This outlines the sad journeys of those who were once free in their own land but who were captured, put on slave ships in deplorable conditions, only to have before them a life of servitude upon arrival at their destination in the new world.
After the Connections activity, a docent came and gave us a tour of the house. She was exceptional. And, in truth, all our docents were, both in Charleston and in Savannah, and, of course, we can’t forget Sam in St. Augustine.
Drayton Hall is a preserved house rather than a restored one. There are no furnishings; the concentration is on the architecture.
Click on www.draytonhall.org for details not only of the house but of the beautiful grounds.
I wish we had been able to do the self-guided marsh walk or the river walk. I’m sure that either would have been an amazing experience; the grounds were so lovely. But as I mentioned, we had planned poorly regarding the Heritage Passport, and we were pressed for time; we still had Middleton Place to visit down the road and it was getting close to the time when they would be closing their entry gate.
On the way, I made a call to the Middleton Place Restaurant asking how strict their dress code was (No dress code, I was told, and that was good; we were decently dressed but in casual clothing) and if they were able to take a reservation for us for 6:30 (Yes, there were openings).
We got to the entry about 4:30, and that gave us two hours to enjoy the grounds before going to the restaurant for dinner. It was still a long summer day, plenty of light despite the hour, and though there wasn’t a riot of color, and how spectacular that must be when plants are in bloom, the greenery was lush. The Spanish moss hanging from large oaks, the pathways along the river, the reflecting ponds, all of that made for a lovely walk, a peaceful respite at the end of a busy day.
And dinner at the restaurant was amazing. It was hard to make a choice, the menu was so good and varied, but both Jeri and I finally settled on their special—wreckfish, a local fish, we were told, on a bed of baby succotash. Hot crusty bread. She-crab soup. A great bottle of wine. All was good.
Click on www.middletonplace.org for information. Don’t miss the website’s section on the restaurant. Photos are posted which show the spectacular setting, and a menu can be downloaded.
Except for having to cut short our time at Drayton Hall, it all added up to a most satisfying day.
To be continued
Oct 13th, 2011, 04:37 AM
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Wreckfish is one of my absolute favorites. Good on you for choosing it!
I am so glad you enjoyed Mr. Brown's tour. Mr. Simmons was a lovely human. I got to meet him once. He was charming. We miss him.
Can't wait for the next installment. Y'all really had fun!
I am so glad you enjoyed Mr. Brown's tour. Mr. Simmons was a lovely human. I got to meet him once. He was charming. We miss him.
Can't wait for the next installment. Y'all really had fun!
Oct 13th, 2011, 05:08 AM
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Bo2642, love your trip report and am glad the info I provided was useful.
Just to ease your mind about the walks at Drayton Hall -- I did do the river walk here, which was okay if nothing special, and I avoided the marsh walk because of heavy mosquito likelihood. Choosing to see the grounds at Middleton Place was the right call here, as it has the best of the three plantations (Magnolia Plantation's are good, but Middleton's are better). And if you see only one house, Drayton Hall is the right choice (saw the other two, and while they're good, I liked Drayton's best). I think you did well.
Just to ease your mind about the walks at Drayton Hall -- I did do the river walk here, which was okay if nothing special, and I avoided the marsh walk because of heavy mosquito likelihood. Choosing to see the grounds at Middleton Place was the right call here, as it has the best of the three plantations (Magnolia Plantation's are good, but Middleton's are better). And if you see only one house, Drayton Hall is the right choice (saw the other two, and while they're good, I liked Drayton's best). I think you did well.
Oct 13th, 2011, 07:39 AM
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I remember reading a way back about a road line with oak trees or something that is worth driving down. It is near the Sheldon church ruins. Am I remembering this correctly and if so, can someone give directions. We will be driving from Savannah to Charleston, stopping at the church ruins, possibly going out to Gullah Cuisine for lunch too.
Oct 13th, 2011, 07:55 AM
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Great trip report!
I was in Charleston five years ago and did the same Gullah tour with Alfonso Brown. He's an excellent guide, and that tour was a highlight. Phillip Simmons was alive then, and it was really an honor to meet him. Such a talent, and a generous man.
I was in Savannah just over two weeks ago, so I'm looking forward to reading your installment and comparing notes!
I was in Charleston five years ago and did the same Gullah tour with Alfonso Brown. He's an excellent guide, and that tour was a highlight. Phillip Simmons was alive then, and it was really an honor to meet him. Such a talent, and a generous man.
I was in Savannah just over two weeks ago, so I'm looking forward to reading your installment and comparing notes!
Oct 13th, 2011, 10:12 AM
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KathyH, Gullah Cuisine is north of Charleston on Highway 17. You won't be close if you're in between Charleston and Savannah.
The road from 17 to the Sheldon Church Ruins is through a grand oak forest.
The road from 17 to the Sheldon Church Ruins is through a grand oak forest.
Oct 13th, 2011, 04:32 PM
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@bachslunch--Thanks so much for "easing my mind" re the Drayton Hall grounds. So glad we made the right call and moved on to Middleton Place. We did enjoy our time there even though flowers were not in season. And, yes, I certainly have found your posts to be helpful. I love that you seem to waste no time as you explore.
When we were in St. Augustine, based on your trip report I wanted to visit the hospital, the place where you said you were squeemish, and also the pirate museum. We just ran out of time.
Right now, we have a Florida Keys trip in the offing. My son-in-law Danny's parents, who live near Macon, Georgia, will be celebrating their 60th wedding anniversary, and his mom, Maggie, has wanted to go to Key Largo ever since she saw the movie by the same name. So during the first week in April, our family--Danny, Susanne (my daughter) and their two boys, along with myself--will fly to Miami and drive down there. The house we found on VRBO is not in Key Largo but is a little south in Tavenier. Bottom line, one of the days the womenfolk will drive down to Key West for the day. Which brings me to your Key West report. I've been going over it, and so far I know I want to see the Truman Little White House and, most certainly, the Ernest Hemingway House. I'll go back to your report as our trip draws nearer and finish my "must dos". Thank you
Oh, and btw, we rented Key Largo. What? This inspired Maggie's desire to go there? It was supposed to be serious, I'm sure, but I found myself laughing several times while it was on.
@Suewoo--yes, we were indeed having a great time, and we appreciate all the input you gave as we were planning
When we were in St. Augustine, based on your trip report I wanted to visit the hospital, the place where you said you were squeemish, and also the pirate museum. We just ran out of time.
Right now, we have a Florida Keys trip in the offing. My son-in-law Danny's parents, who live near Macon, Georgia, will be celebrating their 60th wedding anniversary, and his mom, Maggie, has wanted to go to Key Largo ever since she saw the movie by the same name. So during the first week in April, our family--Danny, Susanne (my daughter) and their two boys, along with myself--will fly to Miami and drive down there. The house we found on VRBO is not in Key Largo but is a little south in Tavenier. Bottom line, one of the days the womenfolk will drive down to Key West for the day. Which brings me to your Key West report. I've been going over it, and so far I know I want to see the Truman Little White House and, most certainly, the Ernest Hemingway House. I'll go back to your report as our trip draws nearer and finish my "must dos". Thank you
Oh, and btw, we rented Key Largo. What? This inspired Maggie's desire to go there? It was supposed to be serious, I'm sure, but I found myself laughing several times while it was on.
@Suewoo--yes, we were indeed having a great time, and we appreciate all the input you gave as we were planning
Oct 13th, 2011, 07:20 PM
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CHARLESTON—2ND Full Day
It was the Heritage Passport which dictated our activities for our 2nd full day in Charleston. We had just this day left to take advantage of the admissions we had paid for when we purchased the pass.
We decided to leave the Gibbes Museum of Art , The Charleston Museum, and the Edmondston-Alston House for another visit and concentrate on the Aiken-Rhett House, the Joseph Manigault House, and the Heyward-Washington House.
If three house tours in one day seems like overkill, for us it really wasn’t. We find that house tours are a great way to gain understanding of the times they represent.
The Aiken-Rhett House: Had we taken our cue from the Frommer’s travel guide to Charleston, we might have skipped this house. Among other things they wrote, “Now deep into decay, the Aiken-Rhett House is a mere ghost of its former self.”, and “A major restoration is directly needed.” What is the matter with these people? Of course neither Jeri not I has a trained eye, but we thought this house tour was great. The tour is basically self-guided with audio, and we loved that we could go through the rooms at our own pace.
The narrative on the audio directed our attention to so much detail, not only in the house, but also outside in the slave quarters out back and other outbuildings including the kitchen which, as was the necessary custom in days gone by, was separated from main house because of the threat of fire
http://www.historiccharleston.org/experience/arh/
Our second house tour was the Joseph Manigault House. As described in the handout printed by The Charleston Museum—“Built in 1803, the Joseph Manigault House is a premier example of Adam-style, or Federal, architecture which reflected the virtues of elegance and simplicity associated with the new American republic. Well-suited to Charleston’s climate, the planter’s townhouse has high ceilings, abundant windows, and two–story porches, while a curving central stair accentuates the grace of the interior. It was designed for his brother, Joseph, by amateur architect ‘Gabriel Manigault, who is also credited with designing Charleston’s current City Hall.” Once again, a very satisfying tour, enhanced by the enthusiasm and knowledge of the docent.
Cilick on http://www.charlestonmuseum.org/joseph-manigault-house
And the third house, the Heyward-Washington House, was also a great choice. Among the most interesting features was its restored kitchen, once again to the back of the structure because of the threat of fire. And among the most interesting facts is that George Washington, and this has been well documented, actually slept here.
http://www.charlestonmuseum.org/heyw...shington-house
It doesn’t seem that it would take a whole day to tour three houses, and actually it didn’t. We didn’t hurry and took time out to visit Charleston’s Old City Market and to have lunch.
Click on http://thecharlestoncitymarket.com/photos.cfm
Never mind where we had lunch. We enjoyed it, but as we looked up ratings later on, someone who had eaten there had gotten food poisoning.
The above essentially comprised our day. Whether it seems so or not, it was a full one for us, and after our last tour we were ready to have dinner and go back to our hotel and relax for the evening.
As you might have discerned, fine dining was not a priority for us this trip. Not that we don’t enjoy a great dining experience, but, living in LA we have lots of opportunities. And we enjoy them most when we feel refreshed, not at the end of a day where we’ve been out in the heat and humidity. So, as for dinner, we just figured that something would present itself. This night it was Sticky Fingers Smokehouse which we passed by as we were walking to the hotel. This doesn’t have a place on any of the great dining experience lists I’ve come across, but both Jeri and I really liked what we ordered—she, chicken and ribs (not sure what kind of marinade), and I, ribs with a dry Memphis rub and smoked turkey breast. The atmosphere was pleasant and the beer was cold. We didn’t feel intimidated by the fact that we were in the same clothes we’d been out touring in all day; it was that casual. We’d go there again.
http://www.stickyfingers.com/default.aspx
And for any foodies out there who might be staying at or near the Mills House, Husk, a restaurant which has had consistently high marks from fellow Fodorites, is right around the corner from the hotel. Next time, for sure, for us.
More later.
It was the Heritage Passport which dictated our activities for our 2nd full day in Charleston. We had just this day left to take advantage of the admissions we had paid for when we purchased the pass.
We decided to leave the Gibbes Museum of Art , The Charleston Museum, and the Edmondston-Alston House for another visit and concentrate on the Aiken-Rhett House, the Joseph Manigault House, and the Heyward-Washington House.
If three house tours in one day seems like overkill, for us it really wasn’t. We find that house tours are a great way to gain understanding of the times they represent.
The Aiken-Rhett House: Had we taken our cue from the Frommer’s travel guide to Charleston, we might have skipped this house. Among other things they wrote, “Now deep into decay, the Aiken-Rhett House is a mere ghost of its former self.”, and “A major restoration is directly needed.” What is the matter with these people? Of course neither Jeri not I has a trained eye, but we thought this house tour was great. The tour is basically self-guided with audio, and we loved that we could go through the rooms at our own pace.
The narrative on the audio directed our attention to so much detail, not only in the house, but also outside in the slave quarters out back and other outbuildings including the kitchen which, as was the necessary custom in days gone by, was separated from main house because of the threat of fire
http://www.historiccharleston.org/experience/arh/
Our second house tour was the Joseph Manigault House. As described in the handout printed by The Charleston Museum—“Built in 1803, the Joseph Manigault House is a premier example of Adam-style, or Federal, architecture which reflected the virtues of elegance and simplicity associated with the new American republic. Well-suited to Charleston’s climate, the planter’s townhouse has high ceilings, abundant windows, and two–story porches, while a curving central stair accentuates the grace of the interior. It was designed for his brother, Joseph, by amateur architect ‘Gabriel Manigault, who is also credited with designing Charleston’s current City Hall.” Once again, a very satisfying tour, enhanced by the enthusiasm and knowledge of the docent.
Cilick on http://www.charlestonmuseum.org/joseph-manigault-house
And the third house, the Heyward-Washington House, was also a great choice. Among the most interesting features was its restored kitchen, once again to the back of the structure because of the threat of fire. And among the most interesting facts is that George Washington, and this has been well documented, actually slept here.
http://www.charlestonmuseum.org/heyw...shington-house
It doesn’t seem that it would take a whole day to tour three houses, and actually it didn’t. We didn’t hurry and took time out to visit Charleston’s Old City Market and to have lunch.
Click on http://thecharlestoncitymarket.com/photos.cfm
Never mind where we had lunch. We enjoyed it, but as we looked up ratings later on, someone who had eaten there had gotten food poisoning.
The above essentially comprised our day. Whether it seems so or not, it was a full one for us, and after our last tour we were ready to have dinner and go back to our hotel and relax for the evening.
As you might have discerned, fine dining was not a priority for us this trip. Not that we don’t enjoy a great dining experience, but, living in LA we have lots of opportunities. And we enjoy them most when we feel refreshed, not at the end of a day where we’ve been out in the heat and humidity. So, as for dinner, we just figured that something would present itself. This night it was Sticky Fingers Smokehouse which we passed by as we were walking to the hotel. This doesn’t have a place on any of the great dining experience lists I’ve come across, but both Jeri and I really liked what we ordered—she, chicken and ribs (not sure what kind of marinade), and I, ribs with a dry Memphis rub and smoked turkey breast. The atmosphere was pleasant and the beer was cold. We didn’t feel intimidated by the fact that we were in the same clothes we’d been out touring in all day; it was that casual. We’d go there again.
http://www.stickyfingers.com/default.aspx
And for any foodies out there who might be staying at or near the Mills House, Husk, a restaurant which has had consistently high marks from fellow Fodorites, is right around the corner from the hotel. Next time, for sure, for us.
More later.
Oct 14th, 2011, 06:44 AM
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Bo2642, I agree about the Aiken-Rhett House and think Frommer's description is missing the point here -- it's primarily an architectural house to tour like at Drayton Hall, not a fully restored "period house" like most other Charleston homes. And I found the cobwebbed faded glory of the place and its moldering furnishings eerily evocative, almost spooky in a way, unlike most such places are -- a feel that's only enhanced by the self-guided tour (a live tour guide would dispel the atmosphere here).
Re the film "Key Largo," it's indeed a worthwhile movie, if primarily an actor showcase tour-de-force for illustrious actors like Humphrey Bogart, Edward G. Robinson, Lauren Bacall, and Lionel Barrymore. Surprisingly, it was the now less well remembered Claire Trevor who won an acting Oscar instead of the other folks in this film. And if Maggie goes there, let's hope there's no massive hurricane that hits, unlike in the movie.
Re the film "Key Largo," it's indeed a worthwhile movie, if primarily an actor showcase tour-de-force for illustrious actors like Humphrey Bogart, Edward G. Robinson, Lauren Bacall, and Lionel Barrymore. Surprisingly, it was the now less well remembered Claire Trevor who won an acting Oscar instead of the other folks in this film. And if Maggie goes there, let's hope there's no massive hurricane that hits, unlike in the movie.
Oct 14th, 2011, 11:46 AM
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I completely agree with you both about the Aiken-Rhett House. It was actually my favorite house, just for the feeling I got when wandering through it, and being able to go at my own pace. Your description, bachslunch, is perfect.
Oct 14th, 2011, 08:52 PM
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CHARLESTON—3rd Full Day
We started our day without feeling pressed. Our Heritage Passport had expired and we weren’t trying to play Beat the Clock. For those who don’t understand the Beat the Clock allusion….well, you’re probably too young.
I’d like to pause a moment here, though, to register my opinion regarding the Heritage Passport. Since each of the sites that one is entitled to is crossed off on the ticket as a visit is made so that no site can be visited more than once, why is there a 2 day time frame in which to get it all done? I’m comparing this to a Savannah multiple entry ticket we bought when we were there the next week. On that particular ticket, we paid for entrance to three houses. When you entered a site, it was crossed off. There was no timeline. You could go to one house on one day, and the second on another, and the third a year later if that was in your plan. No expiration.
I know Fodorite Myer, whose posts I read and enjoyed during the planning phase of our trip, had similar concerns. Myer’s Fodor user name is just that—Myer—should anyone heading for Charleston and/or Savannah want to pull up his posts on the Fodor forums.
At any rate, the day was ours to organize as we wished except for the need to take care of one consideration. Our three night stay at the Mills House had come to an end, and the check-out time was 11:00 AM. Our next night was going to be in Mount Pleasant. No problem, though. Mills House made provision to hold our luggage upon check-out, and we had as much time as we needed before picking it up on our way out of town.
We began our day with a visit to a building which was very near our hotel and which had caught our attention from the time we first started exploring. It was the Old Exchange Building and Provost Dungeon. Do click on this link http://oldexchange.org/history/ for information far more than I have the energy to put into this report. (Friday night, babysitting the grandsons, and writing furiously so I can watch Thor with them. No problem, though. Love those boys!)
Let me just say that while aspects of this tour include a host in period costume and that the history of the dungeon is presented in Disney fashion, with Disneylike figures at times speaking to the guests and so on, it is not necessarily a kids’ tour. It is a quality tour and we learned much. We’re not sorry that this took more than an hour from our day. Time well spent.
As we exited the Old Exchange Building, we began the walking tour that we had planned for this day. It was based on The Complete Walking Tour of Historic Charleston booklet which we had bought the first day at the Visitors Center (and which we saw a dollar or two cheaper later at our hotel gift shop and other places throughout the city).
The opening comments of the booklet state that it should take about 2 hours for the main tour and add another hour or so for the two alternate tours. Well, we did it all, main tour and the alternates. And it took us longer than the specified time. We didn’t rush. With 67 homes and other site descriptions in the main tour, there was a lot to take in.
The night before we had spent time with the itinerary and singled out the homes to which we wanted to give special attention, but there were so many special delights along the way that drew us in…..Yes, it took longer than 2 hours.
In the planning stage of our trip I got input from cmcfong on the Fodor forum site. She said to please read Mrs. Whaley’s Charleston Garden because it would add enjoyment to our trip. It certainly did. Not only can this book stand alone, but for tourists, among other important things it directs attention to the fact that a garden and all that it entails is an important part in carving out and maintaining beauty in one’s homelife. I agree with her. Do consider reading this book.
http://books.google.com/books/about/...d=k_5PuyEF_5oC
Others, evidently, felt the same way, and as we walked along, we could peek through iron gates—some of which had been built by Philip Simmons—and see beautifully attended gardens to the side and rear of the house, I can only imagine what they must look like when flowers are in bloom.
Along with Mrs. Whaley’s book, I bought and read Very Charleston by Diana Gessler. She is an artist and has a great eye, and she evidently has understanding and deep appreciation for the unique things that pertain to Charleston. With illustrations and simple text, she takes one through the everyday details of Charleston sites as well that in neighboring areas. What a great resource.
http://books.google.com/books/about/...d=k_5PuyEF_5oC
The walking tour guide took us past some of the most important historic buildings in Charleston and some of the most prestigious homes with commentary regarding what made each of special interest. We were pretty tired at the end of it, mainly because of the heat and humidity, never mind the occasional bands of rain. So we were ready to quit touring by the time we picked up our car near the Visitors Centers and went to retrieve our bags at the Mills House.
It should have taken us only about 15 or 20 minutes to go from the hotel across the bridge to Mt. Pleasant where we would check into the Best Western Patriot’s Point for the next two nights, but we missed our turn-off right after the bridge and had to get our bearings and turn back to the lodging.
The desk personnel were very nice—even when we talked to them about staying only one night instead of the two that we had booked. Why one night? Jeri had decided that the half day it would take to go to Fort Sumpter…well, she was willing to forgo that. She had been there before, and the weather this trip was iffy—heat, humidity, and rain—and she said that if it was OK with me, she would rather just check into our room, go out and have dinner somewhere local, and then the next morning finish up with our plan to go to Boone Hall, after which we could be off to-- maybe Beaufort for the night?-- on our way to Savannah. No problem with me re that plan. At that point Beaufort sounded better to me than a fort.
Regarding the Best Western Patriot’s Point, is was ok, but for the price not great. $124.26 including taxes for one night and continental breakfast the next morning. Thin walls, lots of goings and comings in the hallways because of people there for some kind of function. Wish we had tried to negotiate another night at the Mills House. Just to see if something had opened up since our three night booking. So here’s another Oh Well. ……Oh. Well.
More later
We started our day without feeling pressed. Our Heritage Passport had expired and we weren’t trying to play Beat the Clock. For those who don’t understand the Beat the Clock allusion….well, you’re probably too young.
I’d like to pause a moment here, though, to register my opinion regarding the Heritage Passport. Since each of the sites that one is entitled to is crossed off on the ticket as a visit is made so that no site can be visited more than once, why is there a 2 day time frame in which to get it all done? I’m comparing this to a Savannah multiple entry ticket we bought when we were there the next week. On that particular ticket, we paid for entrance to three houses. When you entered a site, it was crossed off. There was no timeline. You could go to one house on one day, and the second on another, and the third a year later if that was in your plan. No expiration.
I know Fodorite Myer, whose posts I read and enjoyed during the planning phase of our trip, had similar concerns. Myer’s Fodor user name is just that—Myer—should anyone heading for Charleston and/or Savannah want to pull up his posts on the Fodor forums.
At any rate, the day was ours to organize as we wished except for the need to take care of one consideration. Our three night stay at the Mills House had come to an end, and the check-out time was 11:00 AM. Our next night was going to be in Mount Pleasant. No problem, though. Mills House made provision to hold our luggage upon check-out, and we had as much time as we needed before picking it up on our way out of town.
We began our day with a visit to a building which was very near our hotel and which had caught our attention from the time we first started exploring. It was the Old Exchange Building and Provost Dungeon. Do click on this link http://oldexchange.org/history/ for information far more than I have the energy to put into this report. (Friday night, babysitting the grandsons, and writing furiously so I can watch Thor with them. No problem, though. Love those boys!)
Let me just say that while aspects of this tour include a host in period costume and that the history of the dungeon is presented in Disney fashion, with Disneylike figures at times speaking to the guests and so on, it is not necessarily a kids’ tour. It is a quality tour and we learned much. We’re not sorry that this took more than an hour from our day. Time well spent.
As we exited the Old Exchange Building, we began the walking tour that we had planned for this day. It was based on The Complete Walking Tour of Historic Charleston booklet which we had bought the first day at the Visitors Center (and which we saw a dollar or two cheaper later at our hotel gift shop and other places throughout the city).
The opening comments of the booklet state that it should take about 2 hours for the main tour and add another hour or so for the two alternate tours. Well, we did it all, main tour and the alternates. And it took us longer than the specified time. We didn’t rush. With 67 homes and other site descriptions in the main tour, there was a lot to take in.
The night before we had spent time with the itinerary and singled out the homes to which we wanted to give special attention, but there were so many special delights along the way that drew us in…..Yes, it took longer than 2 hours.
In the planning stage of our trip I got input from cmcfong on the Fodor forum site. She said to please read Mrs. Whaley’s Charleston Garden because it would add enjoyment to our trip. It certainly did. Not only can this book stand alone, but for tourists, among other important things it directs attention to the fact that a garden and all that it entails is an important part in carving out and maintaining beauty in one’s homelife. I agree with her. Do consider reading this book.
http://books.google.com/books/about/...d=k_5PuyEF_5oC
Others, evidently, felt the same way, and as we walked along, we could peek through iron gates—some of which had been built by Philip Simmons—and see beautifully attended gardens to the side and rear of the house, I can only imagine what they must look like when flowers are in bloom.
Along with Mrs. Whaley’s book, I bought and read Very Charleston by Diana Gessler. She is an artist and has a great eye, and she evidently has understanding and deep appreciation for the unique things that pertain to Charleston. With illustrations and simple text, she takes one through the everyday details of Charleston sites as well that in neighboring areas. What a great resource.
http://books.google.com/books/about/...d=k_5PuyEF_5oC
The walking tour guide took us past some of the most important historic buildings in Charleston and some of the most prestigious homes with commentary regarding what made each of special interest. We were pretty tired at the end of it, mainly because of the heat and humidity, never mind the occasional bands of rain. So we were ready to quit touring by the time we picked up our car near the Visitors Centers and went to retrieve our bags at the Mills House.
It should have taken us only about 15 or 20 minutes to go from the hotel across the bridge to Mt. Pleasant where we would check into the Best Western Patriot’s Point for the next two nights, but we missed our turn-off right after the bridge and had to get our bearings and turn back to the lodging.
The desk personnel were very nice—even when we talked to them about staying only one night instead of the two that we had booked. Why one night? Jeri had decided that the half day it would take to go to Fort Sumpter…well, she was willing to forgo that. She had been there before, and the weather this trip was iffy—heat, humidity, and rain—and she said that if it was OK with me, she would rather just check into our room, go out and have dinner somewhere local, and then the next morning finish up with our plan to go to Boone Hall, after which we could be off to-- maybe Beaufort for the night?-- on our way to Savannah. No problem with me re that plan. At that point Beaufort sounded better to me than a fort.
Regarding the Best Western Patriot’s Point, is was ok, but for the price not great. $124.26 including taxes for one night and continental breakfast the next morning. Thin walls, lots of goings and comings in the hallways because of people there for some kind of function. Wish we had tried to negotiate another night at the Mills House. Just to see if something had opened up since our three night booking. So here’s another Oh Well. ……Oh. Well.
More later
Oct 15th, 2011, 04:58 AM
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I am so glad to see you enjoyed Mrs. Whaley! Now, as a lovely way to say thank you to me for that suggestion, please share with me your recommendations for Savannah. I am headed there in ten days. Welcome home and thank you for such an entertaining report, I look forward to the next installments.
