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Old Jul 20th, 2003, 07:42 PM
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RLA
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Back From Seaside

One of the best vacations I have ever had and the first that I returned fully rested with no need for two days to recover from vacation! The best part of all is how well we all got along and how much fun we had together constantly laughing and further bonding with our teens (what a longshot!). Since my son's g/f couldn't go, he opted to just enjoy family. My duaghter's friend could not have been a better travel companion.

We had our first scare on the way out of town when we narrowly escaped a serious freeway accident. Got our attention for the rest of a long road-trip. Arrived at Oak Alley Plantation in Vacherie, LA for an overnight stay intended to break up our trip to Florida just in time for the last tour of the day. The 300 year-old trees and grounds are a beautiful sight. Home and tour better than expected based on reviews on this site. The cottage we stayed in on the grounds overnight was very clean and charming with plenty of room and included full country breakfast. The people were very hospitable especially the young guard who gave my girls a private tour of the grounds in his golf cart. A strange old lady who claimed to live in the house long ago appeared at the entrance when they were there and told them stories about when she lived there as a young girl. The guard didn't know but said she shows up and tells them that now and then. My daughter was astonished at how much she looked like an aged version of one of the previous owner's based on a picture shown at the beginning of the tour. Only LATER did they learn about legendary ghost encounters i.e. the lady in the black dress that are told about the place not unlike other such places.

The next day, rather than backtracking an hour to Nottoway Plantation, decided to tour Laura Plantation nearby. This has original slave quarters and is where the Brer' Rabbit Tales were originally written. As reported, a very interesting tour as well.

On to Seaside. The Destin/Sandestin area was not as attractive as I expected and the hi-rises more unsightly than I imagined. Tacky shops and fast foods all along the way. The first few beach towns on 30A were not very attractive as well. Glad I didn't stay here. Fine for many, just not my taste.

Seaside was pretty much as expected. The most surprising thing to me was there is far more vegetation, trees, etc. in the yards of the houses than I had seen in photos. Guess the photos were when brand new. I am never in favor of less foliage,but here I would recommend they be cut back some as they cover the picturesque houses too much. I have to agree with one poster who said that Seaside now has a lived-in look. However, not near the 20 years that it is. We stayed in the first house ever built in Seaside originally owned by Robert Davis, developer of Seaside. My family loved the home. It is well maintained with a few exception. One bath needs and overhaul, the refrigerator works but is nearly unsightly, and and a few old dirty rugs around the house and pillows on the porch swing need replacing. Also too many personal effects of the owner's for a rental. There is a fine line between charming and icky and this one almost crosses the line. The location was perfect. Easy walk to everywhere including beach.

The beach was littered with seaweed from Tropical Storm Bill and more was still washing up as the water was full of it. The beach nor the water was like the pictures. We enjoyed it anyway and tried to overlook it as we knew it was temporary and if we came back someday we would likely get the best of it. Just bad timing. The waves were big. Thank goodness for that wind because without it the beach was almost too hot/humid to enjoy. While I enjoyed watching from the cabana, my family enjoyed body surfing and my son had fun teaching himself to use a skimboard. The flags were yellow, but as the waves picked up and they were having great fun, I looked up to see the flags were now red so I waved them all out of the water. It's a good thing I looked because there was no other clue as there were still several people in the water and no other notification. The flags were far down the beach so you had to know to look for them way down there. They were not real obvious.

The kids were really content there although there were not a lot of kids over 14 but they found "the group" one evening. Some of the boys like a couple who worked in Seaside stores were quick to want to take the girls for a walk down the beach only minutes after meeting them. Thankfully,knew how to handle themselves gracefully. Be the end, they all met some really nice kids. We shopped all over the area and found the Eastern Lakes area you told me about, DLN. I hope you are reading my post! It looked perfect for an alternative to Seaside. I saw another good option near there that looked the same. I think it was called Seashore Village. Then another area looked good at Grayton on the gulf-side. I didn't get that name as the group wasn't up for detours on the way to wherever we were headed like I was.

Believe it or not, we never rented bikes. I thought we would but never got to it! We walked or drove as we went outside of Seaside too. I wouldn't let my kids drive around Seaside even a block as I was fearful they would run over a kid on a bike. It looks like that could happen easily there with so many distractions for us tourist.

Two fun nights we had out included Panama City Beach and The Red Bar in Grayton. At the Red Bar we waited for a table and then scrunched in a booth in the front room. The band was festive and food was good. As we were leaving, we noticed "Dancin Dave" on the dancefloor. He appeared to be a local-yokel old man who we saw buying his 7th Red Bar tshirt in the gift shop. He said now he had one in every color! He put it on along with his cowboy hat, denim shorts, white crew sox, and white slip on tennis shoes. He couldn't contain himself on the couch for long before he would burst onto the dancefloor and have the time of his life entertaining the crowd. We laughed til we cried! That's not all. As drove away, my husband rounded the back of the bar too fast only to end up stuck in the sand. He and my son set out to get us out and the sheriff ended up pulling us out. It was quiet an ordeal, but we even laughed our way through that. Amazing how carefree you can get on vacation. My husband is the kind who is usually rescuing others, not being the one stuck so he wasn't laughing like we were. He took it well though especially when after the sheriff kept telling him four times to be sure and not run into his truck while he was pulling him out ended up backing into our Suburban when he got out of his truck and forgot to put it in park. What a night.

Seaside amphitheater featured a Disney movie on the lawn one night (how magical was the atmosphere for little ones sort of like an old drive-inn movie without the cars) and another night had Irish music which we didn't care for. So we drove the kids to PC Beach. We joked about the parents driving the kids around and soon found ourself right on the strip ( I forgot what they call it, but you know the place.) where all the kids parade the cars and walk along the street. We had lots of jokes about us parents chauffering the kids and ultimately saw about 20% of others doing the same. We let them get fake tatoos at a t-shirt shop where we met an interesting store-clerk from Israel. She was a likable girl but rough around the edges and very worldly for her young age. Although polar opposites, she and I hit if off really well. It was great to hear her tell my kids what a cool mom they had and how lucky they were. Who knew? Anyway, for anyone wondering, PCB is nowhere you want to turn your teens loose on their own. Many do, but that's just how we are different. By the time we ended our trip with New Orleans, my daughter, who thinks she is Miss Independent and worldly, was happy she was in our clutches after seeing the reality of all alongside the fantasy. She was downright frightened at times.

We didn't make it to Cafe 30-A, but did the smaller things like Rolly Polly (great beach food), Pickles, and Shades. Bought some stuff at Tommy Bahama, Sue Veneers, and Persipicasity, and enjoyed browsing all the rest. What is the game being played there something like lawn-bowling? Saw that and the French jewelry-store owner who started it there introduced himself to my husband. Loved his vintage bicycle!

Were going to go to Destin or St Andrews to snorkel or certify for a beach dive, but due to water conditions it wasn't recommended at the time. Another reason to go back. DLN, saw the house Another Dream. Lucky you. Would love to stay there. About that gazebo at the end of Tupelo St. The Krier house is on that circle and appeared to have just finished getting a new paint job. Pretty color, but can't find words for it. Pumpkin? Not really, but sort of with white trim. Very picturesque, however, sign on the gate says No Photography Please. In my wildest imagination I couldn't imagine asking to not take a picture of any Seaside cottage. Isn't that one of the favorite pasttimes there? Oh, well, so on the way out, we paused in the circle to look for someone strolling by as the always were to take our picture in the gazebo, but surprisingly there was no one around at the moment. Mr. Krier came out on his balcony scowling and sneering at us. Guess he thought we were trying to sneak a picture of his house. I started to ask him he he would like to come on down and take it and his house would be great in the background! We just went on.

A word of caution on 30-A. If you are lucky enough to not be in slow traffic, strictly adhere to the speed limit. It's easy to speed and not feel like you are speeding and we found out how serious they are about it. Likely for good reason so no hard feelings about the following grand finale. As we rolled up to a red light, my husband looked up and noted a policeman behind him with his lights on. No one had noticed him so didn't no how long he had been behind us. He charged out of his car, came up to the window, and yelled at my husband for speeding like he had committed murder or something. Furthermore, he was mad that he continued to speed right in front of him and it was like a slap in the face as he put it. My husband apolgized profusely telling him we didn't even see him until the light. He then shouted to pull over and said "you too" to the 3 college boys in a Hummer next to us. Guess they were speeding too. We had noticed them next to us, but never occurred to us we were speeding. Just going with the flow of traffic. The boys didn't hear him over thier diesel engine. We cringed as they continued on. The cop chased them down, brought them back to us as we sheepishly waited in a parking lot and gave us both tickets. Oddly, they write in the fine amount which was $ 275! Two blocks later he was stopping us again! I was really nervous now. He asked for the ticket back and said it was only $175 and he didn't want us to pay more than we had to. Oh, thanks.

Got to New Orleans late afternoon and went straight to the French Quarter. First timers, we got our eyes full. It was quiet festive for a Sunday night and no certain event going on. We walked, shopped, and enjoyed the sights starting at Jackson Square. It got dark, and we ventured over to Burbon St. It was quiet seedy, with gay bars overflowing. Back to Decatur St. we ate at Crystal Brewery. Good food, great service by very nice waiter. Spent the night at a Wyndham Hotel in a northern bussiness district where our church group was staying during the Sr. High mission trip. The kids stayed the week for the Mission Trip which was very rewarding. Living in a master-planned community in the suburbs they don't get to venture to the inner-city although curious. Enjoyed getting to do it in a safe way and got to serve food in a homeless shelter, painted over graffitti, helped build on a church, sorted clothes in a donation center benefitting Aids, and shared thier faith in a very onobtrusive way with the less fortunate of all ages. It's amazing how helping others not only helped my daughter appreciate her own blessings, but recognized some of her own flaws as well. What a sweet blessing we could all benefit from.

DLN, thanks again for all the wonderful advice, espcially regarding avoided the two tiny cottages! Oh, the Sweethardt cottage behind us was unlocked so we got to peak in. It was cute, cozy, and charming but oh so tiny! Perfect for two, but only two!
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Old Jul 21st, 2003, 02:28 AM
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Great trip report - thanks for taking the time to share your story. I too love the area and find Grayton Beach to be truly special. It's been about 10 years or so since I have been to that area on the Gulf. Too bad the beaches weren't as picturesque as I know they can be.
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Old Jul 21st, 2003, 11:25 AM
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Thanks for your kindness, Paul. In looking back I apologize for the terrible spelling and grammer errors. I shouldn't have written in such a hurry and without spell-check! I was afraid I would never get it posted it I waited much longer.

Even after 10 years, I think you would still enjoy the Seaside area. Commercialization eventually takes over every good area so hopefully those in charge can delay it as much as possible!

Growing up, my family lived within 5 hours of the cool mountains of New Mexico. We took an annual vacation to Ruidoso and Red River, the mountain equivalents of Beaches of South Walton. It eventually became commercialized, but is still a favorite destination by many. The cool pines are a relief from summer Texas heat in winter there is a ski area we frequented.
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Old Jul 21st, 2003, 04:45 PM
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RLA,

I remember heading into Destin 17 years ago, a young tired driver on a warm rainy night. We checked into what looked like an old motel. Of course, in the rain and dark nothing looked very good. We had a good night's sleep; but the next morning, I just wanted to get the heck outta' there. I took a shower and came into the room when my partner told me to get dressed - we were going to eat in the dining room at the motel.

Eating at this place didn't sound very good to me at this point, but I agreed to do so. I walked out of the motel room. There was a beautiful sunny deep blue sky. We walked up to the restaurant and found out that we were right on the water. {I didn't realize that when we checked in the previous rainy night.}

What stuck out the most about this surreal morning, was that every table in this rather nice restaurant had a toaster on it. They would bring you bread in a basket and fresh preserves, and you would toast your own toast as you wanted it. It turned out to be a beautiful morning overlooking the Gulf.

When we drove back to this area 10 years ago, we hunted down that motel and found it! It was still there - squeezed in next to the highrises! And yes, there were still toasters on the tables.

I have such neat memories of that area. I'm sure you do too.

Happy Trails,
Paul
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Old Jul 22nd, 2003, 02:40 PM
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Thanks for sharing, Paul. I LOVE stories like that. My best friend's grandfather recently died and left behind a group of ocean-front cottages in Fort Lauderdale, FL that sound VERY old and rundown. It would be nice to see someone restore them to the original charm that probably once were.
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Old Jul 23rd, 2003, 05:43 PM
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Hello RLA! My husband and I just sneaked off to St. Pete Beach for a few days without the kids and arrived home this afternoon. I was wondering about your beach vacation and luckily came upon your post! I'm glad you had such an action filled week (sorry about the traffic ticket, though). You covered quite a bit of ground--good for you. Brave you to venture forth into Panama City. When our kids approached puberty we started avoiding the route through PCB, just in case they got any bright ideas... That thing about not photographing Krier's cottage is recent--maybe he didn't want anyone seeing his house with wet paint on it??? LOL Your Grayton Beach Red Bar story was a hoot! Things like that make for great holiday memories (for your husband, after the fact!). The game you saw played was probably bocce ball.

Thank goodness you had enough sense to follow the flag's warning! Did you read in the paper about the horrible drowning deaths earlier this summer? All deaths because people were in the water while the red flags were out. So tragic and senseless. People think because the water is so beautiful that it's also benign--but like all sea water in all the world, it's not.

We were in Seaside one year when the seaweed was in the water. Our kids and their friends built "forts" and had a seaweed war. Sort of like a real live version of the game Battleship. They stank to high heavens by the end of the afternoon, as you can well imagine, but it was so funny that it had us all running for our cameras!

Glad you had such a fun trip! Welcome back.
 
Old Jul 24th, 2003, 08:43 PM
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DLN~
I'm glad you found me. I didn't know if I should post as a follow-up to our previous posts or make a new one. I sure wish I got to travel as much as you! Meanwhile, I'll just enjoy your travel tales.

St. Pete sounds like a nice place. I know someone who frequents there and intends to retire (at a young age) in about two years and move there.

Yes, I heard about the drownings and close calls in the Panhandle just after Memorial week-end. My daughter had just gone to Destin with a friend Mem. week-end. So, I was in tune to the flags. I have to say, had it not been for that, I may have never known since I haven't been lucky enough to spend significant time at a beach am ignorant to many things others would just know, and I never heard a word about the tragedies while there or saw any mention of the flags. Of course, most know. I am in awe of the beauty of the ocean and am so drawn to it, but at the same time it's power is so ominous just looking at it, especially at night, that it sends chills up my spine. It is certainly a force of nature to respect.

I enjoyed watching how much fun the little kids were having finding sea creatures, building sand castles, etc. They never tired of it and got so excited when they found something. It looked like the kind of self-made beach fun and games that transcend time and generations. My daughter catching crabs at night with the net - she had done that before. My son wanted to take surfing lessons, but never got around to it as the time didn't always work out. He had fun playing with the skimmer (?) board and body surfing.

Like I said, it was such a great place condusive to good times with friends & family. Some of the best are when you make your own fun. Right? They already want to go back for Spring Break. I know the water is too cold for swimming and the air temps can be a gamble, but I can see how it would still be great as long as you are lucky enough to get some sunshine and decent temps.



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Old Jul 24th, 2003, 09:20 PM
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Seaside - MY FAVORITE PLACE! We discovered it in 1994 on the way to Disney World. It was so much different then - so much less built up.

We were there in 2001 and there were so many more houses, but I still love it. Rosemary Beach is just down the road and that is very nice too.
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Old Jul 25th, 2003, 03:43 PM
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Is there anything better to a traveler than discovering a wonderful and/or charming place totally unexpectedly or with no preconceived notions? Those are the best.

We drove by Rosemary Beach. It's not my taste for a seaside vacation, but for it's a European style looks very nice and tastefully done.
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Old Jul 25th, 2003, 07:34 PM
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Hello RLA! We walked around Rosemary Beach and I found myself admiring the cleverness of all those architects. It did feel very European, in a very sophisticated way. But I did wonder if I'd like an entire week with all those dark colored houses! Sophisticated, yes, especially cheerful, no. Did you get a gander at the new "town" of Watercolor? Beautifully done and priced to match.

That section of the panhandle between Destin and Panama City has grown so much that I get worried it might be ruined. Did you notice--or how could you not--all the traffic on 30A? It was never like that years ago. I hope Seaside and its neighbors do not become a victim of their success.

You mentioned your family wanting to return for spring break. We've spent very good breaks there, despite the water being too cold (at least for us, not necessarily the kids). Bring clothing you can layer, for some days are breezy and cool, and others are sunny and warm. You never know! We rely on our bicycles to keep us busy, but there's also tennis, and I'm sure you could even pick up some golf if that's what you like. The hiking is fun, too. And browsing in all the galleries and shops. And catching up on reading (especially fluffy fun books). A week flies by before you know it in the beautiful Panhandle.
 
Old Jul 27th, 2003, 07:23 PM
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We did pass through Watercolor several times, but didn't once get out and walk around. I would liked to have scoured the shops, but each time we were headed elsewhere and I was always the only one who was up for detours. A precious boy that my daughter (and us) met the night before we left was staying there. He walked all the way over to us arriving just as we were leaving. We gave him a ride back to Watercolor and said farewell. Bless his heart, he was sweating by the time he got there.

We did notice the traffic from Grayton to Destin. We even sat through about 3 lights on a side street just to get onto 30-A around Grayton. I was shocked to see there was no red light when we got up to the intersection - only stop signs. They really better build or expand roads fast or they will be sorry. I have lived in one of the fastest growing suburbs in America for the past 14 years. It can get ugly.

I forgot to mention something. I'm not easily fascinated with magic tricks, but the male waiter at Seaside's Shades amazed me with his coin trick. Didn't get his name, but look for him when you return!

On 4th of July, I saw Joe Scarbrough of MSNBC broadcasting from Seaside. Do you know of any other high profile people that visit or live there?

We always want to go back to our favorite places, but we love almost every where we visit! Additionally, with so many other exciting places to see for the first time, we don't often repeat a place. There have been some exceptions. The next coastal place we would like to check out is the LA beach areas. My kids would like to see an active beach scene (NOT the likes of Panama City)but a higher caliber. I don't mean that in a snooty way as we are not fond of stuffy. I have heard and read about most if not all of the LA beaches, but would like to hear your opinions and comparisons. Our next destination would have to include a return trip to Hearst Castle. Loved it. Want kids to see it.

Been to San Diego and loved it in spite of hitting it when they had some of the worste Feb. weather on record. Worth another trip back to cover what we missed. Shopped in La Jolla but got drenched as we ducked in and out of the cold rain that day. Enjoyed a wonderful brunch at Hotel Del Coronado but again, due to rain, didn't get to look at the beach. Other CA areas covered that were wonderful include Monterrey & Caramel, Big Sur area, & San Francisco.

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Old Jul 27th, 2003, 07:46 PM
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Hello RLA! I have an idea for you to mull over--how about a visit to Venice Beach, California, should you be in the LA neighborhood on your next vacation? It can only be described as an experience. I haven't been in nearly 20 years, so I'm sure it's wilder now than then, and believe me, it was an eyeful! Made quite an impression on me. However, what is the point of travelling if not to find things that will make firm impressions on you, either to the good or bad? Just a thought. Take a look at this website about Venice: www.westland.net, and click on visit Venice. See what you think!

There's a thread running now called "Help!! What are some other good places to vacation in Florida...." and they're discussing the Panhandle. You could probably jump right in and add your two cents' worth!
 
Old Jul 29th, 2003, 08:55 AM
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Hi DLN!
Thanks for the site. It reflects what I have heard about Venice. I would love to visit. We love to people watch. Yes, yes, I am all for diversity! It is essential for a well rounded experience. I just meant that I had rather tour through some places rather than stay in it. For example, staying at Fisherman's Wharf in S.F. was a mistake for me. It was worth a visit, but should have stayed elsewhere in hindsight. Staying there discolored by overall experience and impression of S.F.
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Old Jul 29th, 2003, 09:31 AM
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RLA, thanks for the compliment on the other post. You're right on the mark about how sometimes it is better to tour through a place than stay in it. We felt that about Key West. Pretty place, nice hotel we stayed in, but we didn't catch a wink of sleep. It is a big time party place and while some hotel guests (us) turned in at midnight, others caroused until 3 AM and made a god-awful racket when they drunkenly arrived back to their rooms! Never again, sorry.
 
Old Jul 29th, 2003, 09:25 PM
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DLN:
Sounds like staying in the French Quarter of N.O.! I read where another poster compared Key West to Fisherman's Wharf. That really set me back. I've since read of other Florida Keys I would prefer to stay at. Would Key West still be worth a visit or a waste after visiting other Keys down there?

Our travels have been about half/half with/without kids. I no longer worry about leaving them behind as long as I am VERY comfortable with thier arrangements. The first few days I don't think about the separation much but after a few days I start yearning for them. My biggest frustration on this subject is that I always hate that they are not there to see and experience all the wonderful things as I am!

I REALLY enjoy reading your other posts. Have a great time and safe travels to Italy. How many times have you been there before? Italy is at the top of my destination wish list.
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