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Old Jun 12th, 2007, 06:24 AM
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asheville getaway-report

Hello all!

I am in Charlotte for training, and this past weekend rented a car to go to Asheville for the weekend. This is my adventure.

I got in about 8:45 Friday, there was lots of traffic on 85 just getting out of town. I had reserved 2 nights at the Days Inn on Patton Avenue at a great price. I knew ahead of time it wasn't going to be the Ritz, but was still quite unprepared for how bad it actually was! See my review and summary on Tripadvisor. My lesson learned, I will never go against Tripadvisor again!

So Friday as I was wondering how I was going to surive two nights in this hell hole, I figured I needed to eat, and had picked out Bouchon on N. Lexington ahead of time. Had I not been in such a tizzy over my digs, I may have enjoyed the drumming in the main square and bohemians dancing around, but at that moment, it didn't really help me!

As I was enjoying my glass of muscadet with my moules frites (mussels and fries) Pariesienne, I was lamenting my situation to the bartender (they are there to listen too right?). She immediately picked up the phone to call some B&B owners she knew. Through her connections I was introduced to the most wonderful B&B, Applewood Manor Inn on Cumberland Circle, in the Montford District not far from downtown.

Nancy, the B&B owner told me to come on over as soon as I wanted Sat AM (I had decided since it was now close to 10 to stick it out for one night), since the room was unoccupied and she'd have breakfast ready for me. It was $150 per night.

Bouchon is a great place that serves "French Comfort Food". The chef is from France and his saying is "bon appetit y'all!" By the kindness of strangers I went back satisfied that tomorrow would indeed be a another day (I'm trying to fit every Southern cliche I can thing of)! More later...
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Old Jun 12th, 2007, 06:30 AM
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I cannot believe anyone actually stays at that Days Inn. Is there still a free clinic at the bottom of it? It was full of gay prostitutes hanging out on the balconies last time I walked by.
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Old Jun 12th, 2007, 06:32 AM
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I am glad you got an improvement in your accomodations. Asheville is a wonderful town and it would be so sad to see you have a bad time because of the hotel choice.
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Old Jun 12th, 2007, 10:24 AM
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Brian, LOL, are you even kidding about the free clinic?? I would not be surprised.

CMC, thanks very much, yes, I loved Asheville, and had I stayed put it would have been a very different experience.

Sat. AM I made way to Applewood Manor. Nancy the owner greeted me with a hug as if we were old friends. Larry, her husband greeted me warmly, as did their two silky Australian terriers, Monty and Maggie.

Nancy showed me to my room with its queen size four poster bed, a lovely room decorated with antiques (as was the whole home), private bath, lavender room spray, etc etc. There was a litle writing nook with a journal full of entries from guests who had stayed in the room. I loved that!

Down to breakfast, where I had: coffee and juice, then Nancy's homemade granola with yogurt, followed by fresh sliced strawberries and grapes, followed by the most delicious homemade quiche lorraine with home fried potatoes and slices of fruit.

The home is an old Queen Anne Victorian on a quiet street on 1 1/2 acres of land. There are porches all around with swings, rocking chairs, and a hammock out back. I had to force myself to leave to go to the Biltomre Estate, which was my plan for the day. Thank goodness I landed here, it made all the difference.

More later...
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Old Jun 12th, 2007, 11:57 AM
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Continuing...

After breakfast I went to the Biltmore Estate. I really enjoyed the audio guide that allowed one to tour through the massive estate at one's own pace. It was not too crowded. You could easily spend a couple of days here if you wanted to really see all of the gardens, the horse farm, the village with all the shops etc. I thought it was all very well organized. I spent most of my time in the house (the basement was my favorite part of the house believe it or not, with the swimming pool, bowling alley, gym, and kitchen areas) and some time in the gardens.

After I got back to the inn, I met a few more of the guests. I had never stayed in a B&B before, and I think it's a great option for someone traveling alone. When my husband and I travel together we are not much for socializing, so we don't stay in B&B's. Being by myself this time, I was so glad I did this!

I had some really nice conversations. Nancy and Larry put out wine and cheese and crackers from 4-6. I also got a great tip from one guest who said don't bother to drive downtown, for $5.00 you can take a taxi and not have to bother with parking. He also highly recommended Zampra, a tapas place next to Malaprops bookstore. This was perfect as Malapros was first on my list of places to go!

more later...
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Old Jun 12th, 2007, 12:19 PM
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Great report! I am enjoying every word.
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Old Jun 12th, 2007, 12:51 PM
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thanks cmcfong, just don't mind the typos (dang I hate when I do that!).

Continuing...

I got a table outside at Zampra, and started off with an Iberian Negroni, which is a mixture of tangueray gin, campari and orange juice. It was delicious, the oj took some of the bitterness out of the campari, it worked well together!

I started off with grilled scallops with parsnip potato gratin in a tangy tomato sauce. Next I had the shrimp, lobster and rice croquettes in a sherry tomato sauce. At about this time a couple sat in front of me. One of them got up so I was face to face with his partner. He asked what I was drinking and pretty soon I had two new best friends!

These guys were just so fun. We talked and laughed through most of our dinners, and when I got my dessert I joined them. For my third course, I had the grilled "painted hills" (which I was told is an area in Oregon where the restuarant gets its beef from) petite filet with ginger, cherries, port, cashews and sweet potato. I also had a taste of the pork spring rolls.

For dessert, a delectable concoction-pistachio sponge cake with cherry butter cream roulade and cherry vanilla sherbert! To die for... I looked over and saw the man who had recommended the restaurant to me with his wife so I waved and said hello to them. I swear I don't have this many friends at home, LOL!

I bid goodbye to my new friends and went up the street to Malaprops, which I was informed is owned by two women partners. I did not know that (not that there's anything wrong with that...) I had spent a long time at dinner, so only had about 45 minutes here. I could have spent hours! It is such a joy to find independent booksellers who are doing a good business for themselves, and I try to patronize them whenever possible.

A short taxi ride later and I was safely back the well lit front stair of my B&B. The front door was kept locked, and my room had a deadbolt as well as a bottom chain so I felt entirely safe, and slept soundly through the night in my comfy bed with tons of pillows! I think one of my misconceptions about B&B's is that they are not as "secure" as hotels. Many of my misconceptions were proven false over this weekend.

Coming up: another amazing breakfast and a trolley tour.
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Old Jun 12th, 2007, 02:13 PM
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continuing...

Slept very well, and got up to the smells of breakfast cooking. There are big fluffy bathrobes you can use if you want to just come down like you were home, but I elected not to do this. Cute idea though!

Breakfast this AM was granola and fruit, a delicious homemade lemon cake, and homemade blueberry pancakes with sausuage and sliced fruit. I spent some time outside in the backyard writing in my room's journal to thank my gracious hosts.

Then I went to the visitor center to take the Trolley Tour, an overview of Asheville with commentary. We drove all over, past the Grove Park Inn, through Biltmore Village and back through downtown. Our driver pointed out buildings designed by an art deco architect (I cannot remember his name), as well as some of the old signage on downtown stores such as Kress, and Woolworths. Went by the Wolfe house and memorial.

I also forgot to mention earlier that it was BMW bike week and there were many camped out at the Biltmore! A high school graduation as well.

After the tour I headed back. I had a great visit and wish I had had more time to spend downtown browsing all the many shops. But this was a good introduction, I would definitely come back. There is so much to see in such a compact area. Everyone was just so nice to me, and I found Asheville to be a very friendly, diverse place to visit! There is definitely something for everyone there.
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Old Jun 15th, 2007, 01:49 PM
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great post...good that you found lodging elsewhere. I'd never steer anyone to the Days Inn! By the way it is ZAMBRA's...still lots more to see, Arboreteum, Blue Ridge Parkway, Hot Springs, spa treatment at Grove Park Inn and a drink or dinner there, wandering around Biltmore Village and a meal at Corner Kitchen and/or Fig...exploring some of the towns around Asheville like Waynesville, Black Mtn, Weaverville, Burnsville...
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Old Jun 15th, 2007, 02:09 PM
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Leah, just to highjack for a second, did you see my post about the treatments at Secret Garden Spa in Weaverville? WOW! First rate and half the price of GPI. thanks for the suggestion.
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Old Jun 15th, 2007, 03:24 PM
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Wonderful report! I just looked at the Bouchon website, they are hosting food-themed movies with a buffet this summer, sounds like a lot of fun.
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Old Jun 16th, 2007, 08:49 AM
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yes, cmcfong, did see your post about Secret Garden. I'm still disappointed that they quit doing Fri night music and wine but oh, well...xrae - I've been reading about Bouchon's movie and meal nites as well, we might need to check that out!
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