May

Hi, I am thinking of relocating to Wisconsin. I have done some research but would like to hear what these towns feel like to actually be there.

We are considering:
Fort Atkinson
Eagle River
Elkhorn
Amery
Monroe

I know this is weird but due to financial restraints we may not actually get to visit before we move there. We know we want to move and we know that these places have qualities to offer that we are looking for. Yes, we know it's cold. I just want to get a feeling for the community, neighborhoods, employment opportunities etc.

Are we crazy? I hope not.

Thanks in advance

Jim Rosenberg

I'm from Wisconsin and there is a LOT of difference between the communities on your list, including climate. All of them are relatively small towns and employment opportunities may be limited, however there could be more than meets the eye. For example, Amery would be within commuting distance to many opportunities on the edge of the Minneapolis-St. Paul metro area; Fort Atkinson, Monroe & Elkhorn have opportunties in the fast-growing area of southeastern Wisconsin including the greater Madison area. Eagle River would be a bit more of a challenge, since it is "vacation land", not close to any large metro area and the area's economy can be a bit seasonally dependent on tourism. The demographics are going to be older, the real estate prices can be very high around the lake country and it is the quintessential "Northwoods" setting, with significantly more winter-type weather than most of the other places you mentioned.

Cheese Andbeer

Yes, you are crazy.

Susan

I grew up in Middleton, a suburb of Madison, and have lived the last 13 years in Chicago. Let me tell you, I love Wisconsin and would move back in a heart beat (if our jobs allowed it).

Whenever I return (about once a month, family still there), it always seems like the grass and trees are greener there than Illinois, the sky is bluer, etc. Now, this could be due to my rose-colored glasses, but there's no denying the glacially-influenced landscape is prettier.

If you must stick to the towns on your list, I'd recommend Monroe for its proximity to Madison. If you needn't stick to that list, you should consider some of the many towns that are even closer.

For any Fodorites here who know Madison, pick up a book I just finished called "The Dive From Clausen's Pier," by Anne Packer. It's set in Madison -- I loved revisiting the campus and surrounding city through her story.

If you don't already know it, Wisconsin has pretty high state taxes, but in my opinion you get a high quality of life in return.

Good luck -- keep us posted!

x

Not just "pretty high" taxes....they are among the top five in the nation, in terms of taxes...and facing a big deficit despite it.

May

Thank you Jim and Susan!

No we do not have to stick to the list in any way. We are looking for a small town, hence the list, but are considering Madison.

We have decided against Eagle River. We do not want tolive in a town that depends upon tourism.

We are looking for that "small town feel"; decent housing costs, adequate job opportunities, freindly people, a place where we can become part of the community. We are not afraid of snow but obviously we do not want to be snowed in all winter.

Susan, what is Middleton like?

We are definately open to all suggestions.

The state taxes can't be that much higher then where we live now (Oregon). And I understand the trade off can be worth it.

Thanks again!

Mary

Hi May
I live in one of the small NW WI tourist towns in the middle of natl. forest land. I went to college in Madison and it is a wonderful small city. I don't know if Middleton has the "small town feel" you are looking for but it is a unique type of suburb since Madison is a unique city.

Have you considered Eau claire at all? I know quite a few people that like it there. Just a thought. Good luck!

Jim Rosenberg

Just to complicate your choice a little more, here's a link to Wausau's city website that you can drill in to find out about events, visitor information, etc.:

http://www.ci.wausau.wi.us/

While taxes aren't cheap in Wisconsin, that can be offset by a lower cost of living in many communities. Various fees tend to be lower and there are often higher standards/expectations for state and municipal services here than in many other places. (I'm not necessarily defending the idea of higher taxes so much as explaining that a comparison can be more complicated than it may appear at first blush).

xxx

We drove through Wisconsin on a long cross-country trip and boy were we disappointed. We stopped overnight in Eau Clair, having heard so many nice things, but the town was not terribly appealing compared to dozens of other places we visited on our route. And the people were as slow as anyone in the South and as rude as anyone in the North.
And what's the problem with WI--it's a dairy state, why the heck was it so difficult to get fresh cream for our coffee?? Everyplace we stopped at in Wisconsin to get a cup of coffee tried to force those awful dairy substitutes on us--either powdered or some soybean concoction. We had to beg for real cream! Not to mention being warned not to drink the tap water at several road stops because of fertilizer runoff. Lovely.

Dan

I'm from Illinois but I'm familiar with most of Wisconsin. I must say that you've picked a very odd and varying list of towns. Although I like some of the towns in the Madison area, I've always thought this area to be a little overrated. To me, the nicest areas of Wisconsin are on Lake Michigan or the Mississippi River. As for North Central Wisconsin, I'd only live there if getting drunk and riding snowmobiles on thawing lakes is your idea of a fun time. There is no way I'd move to any of these towns without checking them out. Oregon is a beautiful state. The appeal of Wisconsin is friendly people and more a more subtle natural beauty. You may be disappointed at first.

dee

I have to agree with Dan! I lived in several cities in Wisc. and I have never seen people that drink they way they do there. I'm not opposed to having a drink but they get on their snowmobiles(kids along also) and head for the bars on the weekend. Baby bottles just sit on the bar along with their beer!

May

Thank you again for all of your replies. You certainly give us lots to think about.

Why is our list so diverse? What would you all recommend? We are in our early 30's, no kids yet, we like books, music and art, we are kind of quite, neither of us think of a job as a road to fufillment (meaning work for us is over when the whistle blows, at least that has been the case up until now), and we do love to travel so access to a semi-major airport is important.

Thanks again for all your help. You are definately helping us figure out what to do here. And we have realized we will need to take a trip before making anything permanent but you are definately giving us some insight as to where to visit and how to narrow our search down. Obviously we can't spend a month touring every little town in Wisconsin, unfortunately.

Susan

May, PLEASE make the effort to visit Madison. With summer coming there's no better time. Your last post tells me it's exactly the town you're looking for.

Not having lived there for the past 13 years, I can't really give you up-to-date details about housing, schools, etc., I can only reiterate how I love the atmosphere of the area. I left as a newly-wed 23 yr old who'd only rented, hence never paid taxes. What I know on that subject is mostly from hearing my parents gripe! And being fairly liberal myself, I wouldn't be put off by the liberal government (though that's another thing my Dad likes to b*tch about).

The city has a great deal to offer, thanks to the University being located there. For a "small" town you'll find plenty of diversity in people, restaurants, music, shops, etc. The surrounding area (say a 100-mile radius) has so much to offer as well, particularly if you like nature. If you get a chance, visit Devils Lake, approx. 90 minutes North.

If you do visit Madison, make sure you're there over a Saturday so you can walk around the campus (especially the Student Union), State Street, and the Farmers Market, which is on the Capital Square every Sat. from 6 am til 12? 2 pm? In fact, take those three items in reverse for a nice 1/2-to-full day itinerary.

I could go on and on, but I'll shut up for now and see what else I can think of. (Oh, yeah, Middleton is an ideal "hometown" to grow up in. I didn't really address it on its own because I think of the two as one and the same.)

Susan

x

I'm still kind of wondering why, May, that you and your husband just seemed to have picked Wisconsin out of the air as a re-location site? And are you sure you'll be able to find employment in the smaller towns you cite? There is darned little recession recovery yet to be seen here...too often, the news is still headlined with lay-offs.

Wisconsin IS a pretty state - in a rural, classic Midwest sort of way, with acres of rolling farmland, herds of Ben & Jerry style cows (yes, I know - they're Holsteins), red barns and white frame farmhouses. Tho, like everywhere else, it's surprising to drive in the country and see how much, and how fast, some of those farmland acres are giving way to suburban style tract development.
It's a shame there have been some negative reactions posted here - tho each has their own experience. Mine, has been that small-town folk are, generally speaking, much more polite than those you find in the city. And I've encountered the 'phony cream' problem everywhere - not just here. Tho a restaurant that serves a pot of yellow sludge, in place of real butter (and there are too many of them)...now THAT's sad. The University of Wisconsin has branches all across the state and I would think you should start narrowing your search to one of those locations to ensure that you have some kind of 'culture' and liveliness.

As for airports...you will not be able to fly 'direct/non-stop' from anywhere in the state (with the (limited) exception of Milwaukee).

xxx

I live about 20 miles north of Fort Atkinson and 40 miles west of Madison.
Out of the towns you've listed, I would give the nod to Fort Atkinson. Reason one: you have easy access to both Madison AND Milwaukee and the events they offer. Reason two: given your desire to travel, acess to airports in Madison, Milwaukee, and Chicago. Reason three: more reasonable cost of living than Madison or Middleton.
Susan's descriptions of Madison are very accurate. However, living in Madison or a closer suburb will be much more expensive than any of the smaller towns you have listed.
That being said, your opportunities for employment certainly have to be considered. What do you plan on doing for a living?
The area along the Hwy 26 is rapidly developing. While still quite rural in character, its location of midway between Madison and Milwaukee is contributing to its growth. Property is still cheaper than in counties immediately to the east or west.
Yes, Wisconsin has high taxes but it also has a high quality of living. But it is relatively conservative. Living in southern Wisconsin will not result in being snowed in for months at at time. Last winter was nearly snowless.
I would also suggest the towns of Cambridge, Lake Mills and Oconomowoc.

May

Thank you Susan for all your encouraging help! We really do appreciate it.

X - In one word... lists.
We listed everything we want out of a home, every place that sounded interesting. We weighed pros and cons. Wisconsin just kept comming up. If the "niceness" of everyone who has answered this post is any proof, then I think we have chosen wisely. (I am referring to the many, often negative replies one can usually find here.)

xxx- I know employment may be difficult. But here in Oregon we have the highest unemployment rate in the country (almost 9%) and we are willing to take that risk. We both have many marektable skills though no formal "proffesion." Eventually we would like to have our own business.

I am very grateful for all of your opinions and replys. If you can think of anything else, please let me know.

Dan

BTW, I like Cambridge too.

ttt

ttt

May

Dan, what is Cambridge like?

Jim Rosenberg

RE: unemployment rate. By comparison, Wisconsin's is currently around 5.4% and it dropped from 5.7% last month. In the greater Madison area, unemployment is consistently lower and it's been a hot job market there for a long time.