Hi all,

Just got back from a wonderful trip to Charleston & Savannah; one BIG let-down was breakfast at Clary's Cafe! After reading so much about it in "Midnight in the Garden of Good & Evil," and Frommer's saying it was the best breakfast in Savannah, I was shocked to get a meal that was barely edible! The "famous potatoes" were barely lukewarm, my Eggs Benedict had running whites after I specifically asked for them otherwise - and they were barely warm. What's the deal? Has fame destoyed the quality? Comments, please!

Thanks, Mary

Mary, we are about to leave on our 1st trip to Savannah & Charleston, SC. Could you tell me what sites & restaurants you do recommend? Weather? Appropriate dress? Thanks in advance.

Kate: Can't speak to Clary's Cafe, but I CAN tell you that you're going to have a wonderful trip! We just got back 3/9 from a visit to both cities and were marvelously impressed! Didn't eat out much in Savannah as we were E'hosteling, but I do recommend Mrs. Wilkes either for b'fast (not tried) or lunch, which we quite enjoyed...perhaps more for the experience than the food....but where else was I to learn that "I LIKE collards, Sam I Am!" While in Savannah, it's worth a trip towards Tybee Island to take in Fort Pulaski...the artillery hits in the wall from a Union (won) battle are still visible; the fort was designed (at least in part, and construction supervision by) Robert E. Lee. Really worthwhille! In Charleston, we had the best/most shrimp ever in the po'boy sandwich at Poogans Porch and happened onto a lovely, neighborhood-crowd kind of place at Mistral on S. Market St. (White tablecloth, but friendly-friendly and not too pricey). Do do the tour of the Customs house in Charleston...VERY well-done and informative....We can't wait to go back!

oops! weather....we were there first week of March and coatless the whole time...I'd think it's quite a bit warmer by now...Suggest you do a check via one of the weather web sites. Also, the Days Inn Downtown has a fairly reasonable ($100 vicinity) rate..has perfectly adequate accommodations and a great location, tho there are many terrific seeming B&b's if the wallet permits. E-m me if you have other questions...i'll try to help.

Hi Kate,

Hope I've caught you before you left for Charleston! It's practically summer in both cities now, but take a light jacket or sweater for evening just in case it gets damp, chilly & windy as it did a couple of nights. In dress, you see everything from short shorts to "Sunday dress", mostly in- between. Almost none of the restaurants ask for anything more than a collared shirt for men, and no tank tops & t-shirts at night. So go comfortable!

In Charleston & Savannah both, do the carriage ride your first days. They give such a good overview of history, etc.

In Charleston, both Middleton Place and Magnolia Plantation are fabulous, and eat lunch at the restaurant at Middleton Place. The food was real Southern, Low country - howlingly good! I'd do them on different days; be sure to do the tram ride at Magnolia. But so much walking is involved, we almost killed ourselves doing them both in one day.

In Charleston, do the boat ride to Ft. Sumter - your husband will love the Fort, and you will like the boat ride. Be sure to walk around the Battery to see the houses and gardens (a guy came out and invited us into his garden! So nice!) We ate at Magnolia's Uptown (twice) and Anson; both to die for, really! In Savannah, don't miss "Lady & Sons Restaurant" if you like down-home Southern food. It was so good, I can't find the words! Really --------- I'm speechless when I think of the Fried Chicken, Swiss Steak, Mashed Potatoes, Collard Greens, Peach Cobbler, Black eyed Peas!!!! On the riverfront, we ate at River House (fab Caesar Salad) and Chart House, both very, very good!

Don't miss St. Bonaventure's Cemetery in Savannah, but get good directions from your concierge. It's easy to lose your way!

Have a wonderful trip. Hope I've helped.

Cheers, Mary

Thank you both for responding to my questions! You re-confirmed many of the places I have written down as possibilities to visit or dine at in both cities as well as giving us new ideas. Thanks also for the clothing tips and I'll definitely follow the weather reports.

Kate,

A couple of things I forgot to mention. If you stay in the Historic section of Charleston, Baker's Cafe is a wonderful place to have breakfast. Also, Kaminski's has the most fabulous desserts, Coconut Cream Pie for the Gods! Stop in the middle of the afternoon, and have coffee & dessert!

Also, all the historic homes like Davenport Museum & House, Andrew Low House, Joseph Manigault House, etc., that you'll see advertised, are wonderful and worth the time and admission, more so than the houses on the Plantations. At Middleton & Magnolia, the gardens are the thing, although the house tours are interesting and give you the history.

The Hyatt Regency Savannah, right on the river, has an excellent breakfast buffet for $9.00. We were sorry we didn't discover it til our last morning there. Also, a great place in Savannah for drinks at night is the deck on the ChartHouse Restaurant, looking out over the river, and their drinks are excellent, especially the Frozen Margaritas w/salt! Have a great trip!

Kate:
Having just returned from one week in Charleston and Savannah, let me add a few more suggestions:
1. A new "fish house" in Charleston called "Hank's" is all the rage and has excellent food (especially the soft shell crab special). It is owned by the same owner of the highly regarded Peninsula Grill. Don't miss it!
2. Magnolia's popularity is well-deserved...I recommend the mixed seafood over grits (but everything is sure bet on the menu!).
3. I agree with Mary that Middleton Place and Magnolia Gardens (and the adjoining "swamp garden") are "musts", and should be visited seperately on two different mornings (arrive at 9am to avoid the line that develops later on).
4. In Savannah, I enjoyed dining at The Olde Pink House and at Il Pasticcio.
Although it is scandalous to admit, I really was disappointed with Mrs. Wilkes Boarding House, but perhaps had unrealistic expectations.
Hope this helps!

I don't know if I'm in a REALLY small minority or not, but I really disliked Savannah in general. Didn't find it terribly charming...poor, dirty, small historic areas. Charleston exactly the opposite. Just my 2 cents.

Savannah and Charleston are actually quite different. Charleston's historic district is more concentrated and is perhaps a bit more enjoyable for walking. Savannah's historic district seems more spread out mainly because of the many squares(small parks) that are in the city.
The architectural styles of the homes and buildings are also very different.
Go check them both out-they are two of America's most charming and beautiful cities.

Brett:
I agree with your preference of Charleston over Savannah, which has the tackiest River Street shops to sucker-in tourists and lacks the depth and variety of interesting sites that Charleston offers. Savannah did seem dirty and more urban in character, but it nevertheless merits a two day visit if you are in the area.

Frankly, and at the risk of sounding rude, I found all of Savannah disappointing on a trip last fall. Yes I did the historic district, the islands, the 'not-to-be-missed' restaurants (very pricey, over-hyped, very mediocre food)with such a sameness to the menus. The river front is OK, at first, within an hour you had seen it all - tacky gift/souvenir shops, restaurants - as before, the most expensive and watery mint-juleps in the world, and, we rarely encountered the celebrated Southern hospitality anywhere in Savannah.
Anyway, as this is about Savannah's cafes and restaurants, my 2 bits worth is, get a picnic together! Sorry Savannah.

Eva, We lived in Savannah for 4 years and loved it enough that we'll return in 5 years when it's time to retire. We established some great friendships and became involved in all aspects of the city in a very short time. Felt it was sort of remarkable to be readily accepted in a small southern town! I'm sorry you missed a taste of the hospitality of the region and hope that the tourism boom isn't spoiling the city!!

I'm curious, where did you eat? Savannah was never a hotbed of fine dining, but at least one, Elizabeth's on 37th, has won some prestigious nat'l awards. Sapphire Grill is the latest of the "in" dining spots. No one mentions 45 South, but that is and has been a long time local favorite. Pink House is as nice for the atmosphere as anything else. Il Pasticcio ran both hot and cold--when they missed, they missed big time and that could be either in the food or service department! By the way...don't look for southern hospitality there! And Clary's NEVER was a great dining spot!! All these are expensive, (except Clary's) but no more so than the better restaurants of any other city we have visited. After the top tier, quality falls off pretty dramatically IMHO.

I totally agree with your assessment of River St by the way...my least favorite section of town. Visitors should see it for its historical value, but the shops are pretty sad. The town I love begins several blocks south of that. My biggest regret is that there is no great shopping section, antiques and/or specialty shops...Savannah needs what King St is to Charleston (which is where we went to do all our shopping when we lived in Savannah!)

Anyway, sorry your trip wasn't better--did you see Charleston?