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2 weeks in Wyoming and Montana - 3 NPs and hanging out in the Crazies -

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2 weeks in Wyoming and Montana - 3 NPs and hanging out in the Crazies -

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Old Jul 11th, 2010, 05:35 PM
  #21  
 
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Great report. I hope to do this tour some day. I last saw those parks in 1967!
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Old Jul 11th, 2010, 05:36 PM
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General Yellowstone suggestions -
Take your time. Don't be in a hurry.
The roads are 2 lane - one going in each direction.
You can be pretty sure there's going to be road construction - because there's limited time to do the road work during the year.
You can be pretty sure traffic will come to a stop because of wildlife sightings. Elk. Bison. Bear. Varied. Cars will come to a stop, pull off to the side of the road if possible, but there will be many times when cars are moving in only one direction.
And there's a good possibility that wildlife will be IN the road and bring everything to a standstill in both directions.
So, plan accordingly and have lots of extra time.
Don't be in rush and be in danger of other drivers and the wildlife.

Having said that, don't do what we do and schedule too much into just one day. I didn't plan the first week of the trip and was very concerned about this day's plan. From Old Faithful to Red Lodge MT in just one day. Over the Beartooth Highway. Do that route. Just don't do it in one day.
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Old Jul 11th, 2010, 05:44 PM
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The Lamar Valley
If you want to get an idea of what the plains might have been with thousands of buffalo roaming free, the Lamar Valley will give you a glimpse into what it might have been.

Gorgeous scenery. A good chance to see a variety of wildlife. But almost a surety of seeing hundreds of bison just hanging out, doing what bison have done for centuries. Just a gorgeous corner of Yellowstone.

Just as we were almost out of the park, the Wildlife Whisperer once again made a request - a big horn sheep. Yep. We round a corner, see a car pulled over to the right, look around...and there the noble creature sits. The new super duper camera got several great shots of this beautiful animal sitting calmly, looking as if he was posing for the passers-by. A great way to end the Yellowstone part of the trip.

Or not. We may be coming back in the park. TBD.
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Old Jul 11th, 2010, 06:02 PM
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The Beartooth Highway
It is as spectacular as you have heard.
It was also a bit scary on this mid-point day in June.

I've been to Alaska twice - both times in winter. We've driven from Haines to Whitehorse in the Yukon Territory. In winter. This 3 hour drive on the Beartooth was absolutely awe-inspiring.

Here's a description from the link above -
The Beartooth All-American Road passes through The Beartooth Corridor. It is one of the highest and most rugged areas in the lower 48 states, with 20 peaks reaching over 12,000 feet in elevation. In the surrounding mountains, glaciers are found on the north flank of nearly every mountain peak over 11,500 feet high. The Road itself is the highest elevation highway in Wyoming (10,947 feet) and Montana (10,350 feet), and is the highest elevation highway in the Northern Rockies.


We are looking forward to the drive - but a bit concerned. The temperature is dropping. We stop in Cooke City to go to the bathroom. It starts to rain while we are inside. When we get back to the car and turn on the wipers, there is slush on the wipers. We look at each other in silence and decide if we still want to go forward.

We do. And, we're glad we did...once we got on the other side. But we were concerned. The temps continued to drop. It got down to 34 degrees. The rain turned from rain to snow then sleet. Everything around us was frozen. Everything around us was steel grey in color. It was beautiful. It was awesome. It was a bit overwhelming. I'll post the pictures and they are gorgeous. Just a lot of snow, partially frozen lakes then fully frozen lakes and snow piled up in layers deeper than the car. It's a dramatic drive

Do it. I highly recommend it. Maybe just a bit later in the season
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Old Jul 11th, 2010, 06:34 PM
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Red Lodge, MT - I love this little town!
http://www.redlodge.com/

A motel was chosen off the internet and a low price point was a factor after the $$$ spent at Jackson Lake and Old Faithful. What a find! The Alpine Lodge -
http://www.alpineredlodge.com/

We weren't sure when we drove up - just an old-fashioned motor lodge on the north end of town. We opened the door to a very clean, nice room with knotty pine walls, great beds, good bedding - and a TV. The first TV in a room in a long time. One room had a kitchenette and the other a sitting area. The rate was $109. The owners manage the place and offered suggestions, a hot breakfast in the morning and wonderful hospitality.

They suggested a restaurant and it was the best one during the whole trip - The Carbon County Steakhouse -
http://www.thepizzaco.com/steakhouse/

The steaks were great but my seafood pasta (a special) was fabulous. We ordered mussels as an appetizer (flown in fresh that morning) and they were the best I'd ever had. Up until then, Barracuda in Nice had my top vote. Much to my surprise, a steakhouse in Montana surpassed them. The owner?/hostess Heather designed the menu and she shared her recipe and tips. I would love to go back to Red Lodge and the restaurant. I will, one day.

The next morning we enjoyed hot pancakes before we set out for the next stop. I got out of the car to take some pics of Red Lodge, but really wish we had more time to stop and visit. Walk the little down, visit the shops. I just fell in love with Red Lodge. I know the town has another Fodors fan, and I can see why.

Next stop = too much driving
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Old Jul 11th, 2010, 06:53 PM
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We drove back down to Cody. Again, I don't really recommend our route, but the drive from Red Lodge to Cody was a pretty drive.

Cody
I really liked Cody. I didn't expect to. I was really surprised.

I'd heard about the Buffalo Bill museum. I had no idea! It is wonderful! It is amazing. It is varied. No matter your interest, you're going to find something you will enjoy.

http://www.bbhc.org/home/

- Info about Buffalo Bill and his life and his shows

- Through October - Splendid Heritage: Perspectives on American Indian Art - one of the most gorgeous exhibitions I've ever seen

- Western art, including Remingtons, CM Russell - along with a recreation of Russell's log studio
A new curator has arranged the art by theme (rather than chronologically) and it is a wonderful collection

- Firearms - An entire wing. I didn't spend as much time in there as others, but I looked for the Hawkins. I'm a Jeremiah Johnson nut and wanted to find his Hawkin ...

Excuse the tangent -
first lines]
Narrator: His name was Jeremiah Johnson, and they say he wanted to be a mountain man. The story goes that he was a man of proper wit and adventurous spirit, suited to the mountains. Nobody knows whereabouts he come from and don't seem to matter much. He was a young man and ghosty stories about the tall hills didn't scare him none. He was looking for a Hawken gun, .50 caliber or better. He settled for a .30, but damn, it was a genuine Hawken, and you couldn't go no better. Bought him a good horse, and traps, and other truck that went with being a mountain man, and said good-bye to whatever life was down there below.

- and you can get a picture with Buffalo Bill

There were wings I never visited. The Golden Eagles returned the next day, but I'd been too long without a computer so spent the morning catching up on work stuff
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Old Jul 11th, 2010, 07:28 PM
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Cody Comfort Inn -
We stayed at the Comfort Inn. Very nice. It had been years since I'd stayed at a CI and the previous experiences weren't pleasant. I know others on the board have similar misgivings.

Our room was lovely. Roomy, nice touches, good toiletries, beds and bedding. Wireless was supposedly available, but not in our bedding. I went to the hotel lobby the next day and had perfect signal there. Good breakfast (at the back of the gift shop building) with a good variety including hard boiled eggs.

http://www.blairhotels.com/cicody/index.html

The hotel is part of the Buffalo Bill Village Resort. The name is a bit of a misnomer. The Comfort Inn and the Holiday Inn share a parking lot. There are rows and rows of cabins with a bit of gravel in between for parking your car. The setting of the cabins was a bit dreary - definitely not a wilderness experience There's a big western style building with a huge gift shop in the front. The CI's free breakfast room is in the back. I'm guessing the Holiday Inn guests don't have access to the breakfast. I had booked rooms at the HI when I learned we were ending the first week with no reservations in Cody. I emailed kureiff and asked if I should be concerned. Her answer was "yes", so I booked the rooms - and then called to cancel. If this was a lesson in "going with the flow" then I needed to ride the waves. As it turned out the plans changed and we were only staying one night, a weekend night so it all worked out.

We had planned to go to the rodeo, but there were record winds and we opted out of the rodeo. Trees were blown down and there were whitecaps on small reservoirs. The wind damage was the talk of the town.

Steakhouse - Proud Cut Saloon
We met up with friends from home and they recommended this place. The steaks were good but they know how to do shrimp right. Some of the best shrimp I've ever tasted. Just tasted, because I ordered the steak. The place was crowded in early evening. We had reservations at 6 and ate while the shoot-out was going on up the road (shades of Jackson). Lots of tourists there. Once was enough for us.
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Old Jul 11th, 2010, 08:01 PM
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Old Trail Town -
loved this place. A collection of historical buildings moved to the original site of Cody WY (per Buffalo Bill).
http://www.codywyomingnet.com/attrac...trail_town.php
From the link above -

Cody, Wyoming's Old Trail Town is an opportunity to see the area as our forefathers did. Many dismantled buildings have been reassembled and a collection of historical buildings and artefacts run along the Yellowstone highway creating a fascinating journey back in time. Amazing sights, such as an outlaw cabin from near the Montana border used by Kid Curry and the Sundance Kid as a hideout, make this an unforgettable collection.

Also, the grave of the afore-mentioned Jeremiah Johnson -
I found it interesting that a seventh-grade class was instrumental in having his remains removed from Lancaster CA to Cody in 1974. Robert Redford and Sydney Pollack attended the reburial.

From Jeremiah Johnson to Sundance Kid... both in Cody WY

Meeteese, WY
We found our way to the little Western town of Meeteese WY
It looked like a movie set for a Western
http://www.meeteetsewy.com/index.php?page=area-history
The little museum is not so little. It takes up most of the town's storefronts, including the contents of the closed Merchantile from across the road. It has a lot of Pitchfork Ranch items, including a wonderful clothing display downstairs. We spent a lot of time at the wonderful museum. What a find!

Another find! The Meeteetse Choccolatier
http://www.meeteetsechocolatier.com/
Amazing chocolates, truffles, treats made by a working cowboy
Ladies man the counter when he's out working on the ranch, but only Tim makes the chocolates
I loved Laduree macaroons from Paris, but I'm sending Christmas gifts from Meeteetse

Another find, but I have to find the name of the place...
Between the Buffalo Bill Museum and Old Town (just at the curve) we saw a small building with a sign advertising Western Collectibles.
We wandered in and spent almost an hour with the most interesting man.
His trade was engraving guns.
He also collects antique Colts.
Somehow he was talked into buying a man's hatmaking equipment.
He taught himself to make cowboy hats.
He also had some beautiful silver jewelry in the case.
We left with a cowboy hat, silver bracelet and earrings...and wonderful memories talking to this unassuming but very talented man.
I'll find his card sometime/somewhere - if anyone is interested.

Okay, that about wraps up Cody.
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Old Jul 12th, 2010, 08:52 AM
  #29  
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The prettiest drive I'd never heard of - Hwy 14 out of Cody
Given our circuitous routing, I tried to find a route that wouldn't be backtracking as we made our way to Billings via Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument

I use a GPS and Google Maps, but I love maps. Real maps. The paper kind. And I love finding the routes with the dotted green lines that indicate scenic roads. So, with that as the carrot, we headed off east on Hwy 14 out of Cody. None of us knew what to expect.

We drove through the little towns including Greybull. We wondered about the big parking lot of planes and the signs indicated it was the Museum of Flight and Aerial Firefighting
http://www.roadsideamerica.com/story/14707
If you want to wander among aging planes off all types, this may be the place for you.

We continued on and...all of a sudden, we felt we were in Sedona, AZ. Gorgeous red rock formations. Canyons. Switchbacks. Turn-offs and signs for trails and waterfalls.

I will go back. It was an amazing "find" and one that we just drove through - on this trip anyway. Here's some info -
http://www.milebymile.com/main/Unite...nic_Byway.html

Fossils. Dinosaur tracks. Waterfall. Gorgeous scenery. What a surprise. The map indicated it was the Bighorn National Forest but didn't give any indication of what we would actually see.

The drive continued to be a beautiful one and we finally intersected with our first interstate. We zoomed up north to Little Bighorn, and I was so glad we made the drive - just a little bit (by a few hours) out of our way.
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Old Jul 12th, 2010, 04:01 PM
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Oh, Starrs, I've just looked quickly through this but plan to print it out tonight and savor it. We went to Yellowstone when I was about 3 or 4, I do recall a bear coming up to our car. I'm longing to go back and enjoy the area as an adult. This may be next year's trip! annie
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Old Jul 12th, 2010, 05:44 PM
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Glad you had a great time. I always tell everyone that Mammoth isn't much. Maybe it was years ago, but it wasn't much when we were there in 08. Elk there are far better than the springs, in my opinion. I am glad you got to see Beehive go. We waited for about two hours and saw Castle Geyser go, and yes it was much better than OF(about 30 minutes and then about 30 minutes of serious steam phase). We also saw Riverside and Daisy go. Riverside is a really pretty one, arching over the river. At each of these, only a handful of people were there with us, so we felt like we had it pretty much to ourselves. We didn't get to drive the Beartooth, as there was still much snow. Maybe next time.
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Old Jul 12th, 2010, 05:57 PM
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Another thing to do while in Cody is to see thee Heart Mountain internment camp. There was not much there when we went 2 yrs ago but it is a part of history that we forget at our own peril.
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Old Jul 12th, 2010, 06:13 PM
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Great idea. I saw it on the map, but we didn't head that way.

I also saw on one of the National Geographic maps (very cool, BTW) that Amelia Earhart had planned to move to the Meeteetse area after her (last) plane ride. Her possessions were already in storage. We took a pic of a monument/marker the townspeople had erected. I'll post it - when I get my pics up. Some are on my FB page but I'll post them all in Flickr soon. Well, not "all"
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Old Jul 13th, 2010, 07:47 AM
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Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument

http://www.nps.gov/libi/the-indian-m...ough-unity.htm

I'm so glad we made the detour (and what a beautiful detour it was!) to get to this place and walk around for a while. A simple place. A powerful and moving place.

We stopped first at the visitor center and watched one of the excellent videos. We then headed up the hill to look at and read the markers and to soak up the area and try to imagine what happened. One interesting option was to dial on the cell phone to hear a commentary for each point (no charge on your cell plan). Other than that, all you hear is the silence and the wind over the rolling hills.

I especially enjoyed the Indian Memorial Peace Through Unity monument.
The names. The quotes. Powerful.

"They attacked our village and we killed them all.
What would you do if your home was attacked?
You would stand up like a brave man and defend it.
- Sitting Bull, Lakota 1881

"I shall not see you (sun) go down behind the mountains tonight...I am going home today, not the way we came, but in spirit, home to my people."
- Bloody Knife, Arikara - Lakota Guide, June 25, 1876
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Old Jul 13th, 2010, 07:57 AM
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Expressways and Billings and time to rest -
After traveling on 2 lane roads for a week it felt a bit strange to be flying down an interstate highway again - to be covering that much space in such a short amount of time. But, we were ready for the next part of the vacation to start and we were on our way via Billings.

The GPS was pulled out and came in handy to choose a place for dinner. I looked under different cuisines and names that were recognizable were Seafood - Red Lobster, Italian - Olive Garden, Steakhouse - Longhorn. There was a vote for each of them. I was asked to break the tie. I really had no preference or opinion. Well, my preference was something fast because the day was coming to a close and I was afraid we would be chasing the sun. When a billboard showed up for Cracker Barrel I cast my vote. The driver disagreed. I said "Sorry. It's my vote. I haven't voted all week and THIS time I'm voting for a place that we can get in and out relatively fast".

It was a good choice. It was great to have veggies in volume again. I ordered shrimp but took it in a to-go box. My body wanted lots of veggies. Everyone ordered something they liked, bathroom breaks and time for the final leg of Week One. On to the Crazies!
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Old Jul 13th, 2010, 08:16 AM
  #36  
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Chasing the sun, getting in before dark -
MT/WY reminded me of Paris - it gets dark a lot later than I'm used to. Sometime in mid-afternoon you get hungry, look at a watch and it's 8pm. The next time you look up, it's dusk...and then dark comes fast. Late, but fast.

I posted on a Yellowstone thread about not pushing it too close. We came in "too close" twice in Montana and it adds unneeded stress.

In this case, there was a lot of stress. I'm lucky enough to have access to private homes in Montana, but have never been to either before. I had the keys in my pocket, directions on my Blackberry, and the hope that everything that was going to be ready for us when we got there. So, we're coming in to the ranch at dusk. Almost dark. The GPS is telling us to go one way (with support from the back seat). I'm insisting we go the other way. One turn was wrong. I called "home" at after midnight their time. I didn't care. No answer. (The response later was "Oh,shit!") My stubborness won out and we continued on. A few miles later on a gravel road, we found the entrance. We saw a house. We rushed in for bathroom breaks. I'm walking around in astonishment. It's not ready for us. I'm shaking my head saying "Something's not right. Something's not right". It's the right place = the key worked. It's the wrong place = it's not ready for guests.

We are frustrated, over-tired and the suggestions came to find a hotel. (Miles away). I'm just shaking my head, get in the car...and finally the fog clears. There are TWO houses here! I knew that. I was too tired to remember it. I bark the order - "Go further that way". The driver looks at me like I was crazy. "No, GO that way." We did. We turn a corner and there it waits. The other house. A wonderful, welcoming ranch house and our home for the next few days. TV. Hot tub. Lots of room. Big kitchen. Grill. More we would discover later. We unload, try to decompress and I pour a glass of wine. We're "home" in the Crazies.

The next morning, in the sunlight, the hidden house is clearly seen from the first house. In the dark we missed it.
The next morning, in the sunlight, the Crazies are magnificent - as are the mountains so the south that we drove through a few days before on the Beartooth Highway.

We are in some of the most beautiful country I've ever seen.
If you've seen "A River Runs Through It" or the "Horse Whisperer", you've seen it too.

Rolling hills. Majestic mountains. A nesting hawk calling warnings. Cows grazing. That's it - and we need the respite.
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Old Jul 13th, 2010, 09:17 AM
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We liked Cody, too, starrs. I am fascinated by early American West history, so places like Old Town fascinate me.
I liked the Buffalo Bill Museum, too.

One thing I remember from Cody is attending our first rodeo. My sons were young, and they let the kids go run around on the field and try to catch a pig (I think it was a pig, this was about 8 years ago). My son was wearing flip flops, and one came off, and we walked around barefoot a bit on that dirty ground. We made him wash his foot extra well that night!

My good friend just left for a Glacier/Yellowstone trip yesterday. He would have liked to have read your report!
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Old Jul 13th, 2010, 10:28 AM
  #38  
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That's a great rodeo story! We had planned to go, but the winds were unbelievable. The next day we found damage everywhere we went. Trees down, parts of Old Town buildings blown off. It was rough, and then all was calm again.

I'm going to try to get to the Glacier part of the trip soon.
Some of the "little camera" pictures are up now on Facebook. I'll try to get some photos up for general viewing soon.
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Old Jul 13th, 2010, 10:32 AM
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Great report!
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Old Jul 14th, 2010, 07:09 PM
  #40  
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Starrs, I think you've outdone yourself. What an incredibly helpful and insightful trip report. I'm planning a Yellowstone and GTNP trip for July 2011 and you are helping the cause.

Just one request. Since we head to Glacier NP in about 10 days.........I'm hoping to get some tips and pointers before then!! So get cracking!
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